Washington Grown Magazine - February 2024 by wa-potatoes

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why does

everyone want our fruits?

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WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

Taste, quality, and freshness: What makes Washington's fruits such a big hit with markets around the world?

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fruits?

VERYONE KNOWS THAT WASHINGTON is the apple capital of the world. But did you know that Washington is also the cherry capital of the United States? Actually, while we're at it, did you know that Washington produces more pears than any other state? Wait, don't forget blueberries — we're No. 1 in blueberry production! Washington produces approximately 90% of the nation's frozen red raspberry crop, too!

Sure, the Evergreen State is known for producing huge amounts of just about every crop under the sun, but it seems like fruits in particular are likely to flourish here. Washington is a veritable cornucopia of fresh fruits — and not just when measuring quantity. Washington's exported fruits are prized around the world for their taste, quality, and freshness.

But why does this place produce such prized fruit? The answers are surprisingly complex.

First, we must define what quality means when discussing fruits. Every fruit has different characteristics that are sought after by grocers and importers, but there are a few universal priorities. First is size. In the fruit world, you might not say that bigger is always better, but you might say that bigger usually means healthier. For nearly all fruit trees or bushes, the healthiest plants often produce the largest fruits. In Washington, it's not uncommon to find apples with a diameter of 3.5 inches and weights over 14 ounces. In other countries of the world, where apples seldom grow heavier than 5 ounces, such a fruit would cause a commotion in the grocery store. WASHINGTON WASHINGTONGROWN GROWNMAGAZINE MAGAZINEFEBRUARY FEBRUARY2024 2024

"Our new varieties of apples often make a very nice fruit size and also have a really nice color," said Scott McDougall of Legacy Orchard in East Wenatchee. The next characteristic of high-quality fruit is shape and color. Most home gardeners are familiar with the sensation of picking a tomato that looks deformed or pulling up a carrot that looks like it's not sure what a carrot is supposed to look like. The same thing happens with fruits, which can certainly be a turnoff for potential buyers. For many Washington fruit growers, producing uniform fruit begins with planting only the best varieties, along with meticulous care to make sure each tree or bush experiences prime growing conditions. When consumers see fresh fruit on grocery shelves, they are getting the best available at that price point. And every fruit harvested, uniform or not, is put to good use for consumers. Washington growers have many different ways to use their misshapen fruits. For instance, nonuniform apples are often pressed into apple juice and applesauce at processing facilities throughout the state, and misshapen raspberries are often turned into jams, jellies, and fruit preserves. Another important characteristic is firmness, which is usually closely associated with freshness. When fruits are picked at their freshest, the clock starts ticking to get that fruit onto someone's plate — and if that process takes too long, the fruit won't be fresh or firm. Fortunately, Washington has an efficient transportation system to move fruits using trucks, trains, river barges, oceangoing cargo ships, and more. Blueberries and raspberries are often flash frozen within just a few hours of harvest to preserve maximum freshness. Many of the sweet cherries that are harvested in Central Washington are loaded onto a refrigerated Boeing 747 the same day they're picked, and they are flown directly to Southeast Asia, where they're prized as a delicacy. The Washington cherries that reach the night markets in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, are fresh and firm, having traveled around the world in 72 hours. "I think it's great for the industry, because it helps deliver a great cherry to the customer on the other end," said Bryan Peebles, export manager for Chelan 4

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

Fresh. "If someone gets a great cherry, they're going to buy more." Last but not least, taste may be the most important characteristic of all — and taste is where Washington fruits shine the brightest. Of course, the first place to start is with climate and soil conditions. Eastern Washington climate and soils are perfect for tree fruits, while Western Washington conditions are just right for berries. Much fruit flavor depends on the specific varieties that are planted: Golden Delicious apples will have a different flavor than Cosmic Crisp, for instance. And Washington fruit farmers are meticulous about growing the most flavorful varieties, working closely with scientists at Washington State University to develop new varieties all the time. In addition to the work of the farmers, all Washington fruits benefit from naturally occurring phenomena that create intense flavors. First, the sweetness of a fruit is directly impacted by how much sunlight it receives — too little sunlight, and it won't develop enough sugars. Too much sunlight, and it will "sunburn" and ripen too quickly. Because of the far-northern latitude of Washington's orchards and berry fields, the fruits experience some of the longest summer sunlight hours of any growing region in the country — a true "Goldilocks" region for growing apples, cherries, pears, blueberries, raspberries, and more. That northern latitude also means that summers in Washington produce one of the most pronounced diurnal shifts in the country. "Diurnal shift" is a term popularized in the wine industry, referring to the shift from high daytime temperatures to low overnight temperatures. A larger temperature swing helps develop acidity in fruits — and Washington's diurnal shift is more drastic than anywhere else in the country. When you combine that sweetness with that acidity, you get fruits that are delightfully balanced to the taste, enhancing complex flavors that customers love. Next time you travel, keep your eyes peeled for those Washington fruits that are so beloved that they're in demand all around the world.

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WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

SAKUMA BROTHERS FARM BURLINGTON

Sakuma Brothers Farm's pioneering role in delivering the taste of Washington to tables around the world.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

Sometimes, it is the berries

of farming in Skagit Valley

AS YOU BROWSE YOUR LOCAL MARKET, you spot a box of bright, beautiful blueberries from Sakuma Brothers Farm in Washington and put it in your basket, already envisioning your first bite, with its exquisitely sweet yet slightly tart pop. Whether you’re shopping across the world in Japan or here in Washington, the berries are the same, and that first bite will be equally delicious. Washington is the No. 1 blueberryproducing state in the United States, and we export many of our fresh and frozen berries internationally, with the main exports going to Canada, Vietnam, and the Philippines. Berries travel by sea and air to arrive quickly to their destinations.

out, by the week and by the day, what field, what variety, what packs we’ll be sending. We’re really focused on how we get the best quality, the best shelf life, the best taste, and the best experience for our consumer — really from the very beginning.” Those decisions mean that whatever side of the globe you’re on, you’re biting into the freshest, most beautiful berry possible. Sakuma Brothers Farm has been operating outside Burlington in the Skagit Valley since 1935. Now in its fourth generation of family ownership, the farm grows and processes fresh and frozen blueberries, blackberries, and strawberries.

Mikala Staples Hughes, the director of quality and technical services at Sakuma Brothers, says the family-owned farm has historically focused on exporting to Southeast Asia — and every berry they ship internationally represents dozens of decisions and months of planning.

Staples Hughes smiled as she walked through a row of Aurora blueberries, a variety that ripens later in the growing season. She pointed at one of the bushes. “As you can see, there’s still a bit of red on the bush, so we’ll be picking these probably beginning next week.” Walking farther down the row, she spotted a perfect, ripe berry and popped it into her mouth.

“We have to be really selective in the quality that we choose,” she said. “So weeks in advance — even months in advance — we’re planning

Staples Hughes said she loves knowing that the berries are going to be exported all over the world.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

“The feeling you have when you see that truck drive away and you know it’s headed to the airport is a pretty great feeling,” she said. “It’s really exciting for all of us at Sakumas.” Because of its high-quality soil and mild growing climate, Washington has one of the longest berry seasons in North America. Staples Hughes said in addition to those factors, the care and safety measures the farmers take to grow high-quality produce makes Washington stand out.

“I feel there’s a real sense of pride as a Washingtonian knowing the rest of the world seeks our products,” she said. “Think of the products you might pass on the road or the farmer that you know down the street — their products are going to other consumers outside our country.” If you need yet one more reason to be grateful for our glorious state, look no further than our abundant, delicious berries and the farmers who think of everything.

Sakuma Brothers Farms has produced high quality berries since 1935. Above: Mikala Staples Hughes, director of quality and technical services at Sakuma Brothers Farm.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

FINISH

GAME CORNER

START

ENTER TO WIN! Visit our website and sign up to be entered into a drawing for a $25 gift certificate to d'Bali Asian Bistro in Airway Heights! *Limit one entry per household

DID YOU KNOW

Blueberries ranked number one in antioxidant health benefits in a comparison with more than 40 fresh fruits and vegetables. One large handful (1/2 cup) of blueberries contains just 44 calories but has 10% of your daily recommended vitamin C content.

D'BALI ASIAN BISTRO AIRWAY HEIGHTS

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WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

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In d'Bali Asian Bistro, "Mama Jeannie" Choi has created a beloved local institution in the West Plains area outside of Spokane, with the aim of sharing her love for Southeast Asia. Hidden among the stretch of strip malls and fastfood places west of Airway Heights, “Mama Jeannie” Choi runs d’Bali Asian Bistro, a restaurant that is as uniquely likable as she is. Mama Jeannie is unlike any chef you’ve ever met. The moment you step into d’Bali Asian Bistro, you are greeted with the aroma of her mouthwatering food and immediately feel welcomed into her family. Her infectious smile and love transfer to every dish she creates and every corner of the dining room at d’Bali. Just like in a typical family, Mama is in charge of everything. Nothing goes out without Mama Jeannie inspecting it, and she often is the only one taking orders and busing tables, too. “Our food is like sharing love with our guests and our community,” said Mama Jeannie. “It’s like sharing my experiences through food.” Mama Jeannie was born in beautiful Seoul, South Korea. She spent several years in the international hotel and hospitality industry, traveling around Southeast Asia for her work. After she relocated to the Inland Northwest over 15 years ago, her family and friends encouraged her to open a restaurant of her own so Spokane could get a small taste of

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Southeast Asia. In October 2018, d’Bali Asian Bistro officially opened. “As I traveled through Southeast Asia, I have always been so welcomed by my friends and their families,” Mama Jeannie said. “They are so welcoming and loving, with a caring heart. So I want everyone who comes into my restaurant to have the same experience that I had there.” Customers love the signature chicken wings, which are tossed in Mama’s addictive caramel sauce, and the scratch-made seasonal curries, which Mama Jeannie makes fresh in small batches. Smells of exotic ingredients like garlic, ginger, garam masala, curry, and lime fill the air, but the kitchen also makes use of many Washington-grown ingredients. “We have wonderful four seasons (in Washington), so we can grow apples and pears and seasonal fruits and veggies, which can be hard to get there in Southeast Asia,” she said. “So people really appreciate that Washington state grows these things — people there can get the same experience that we enjoy here.” Now, her menu serves as a love letter to the many people and places she met and fell in love with during her travels. The experiential dining menu allows customers to sample dishes from Indonesia, Thailand, Hong Kong, Korea, and Singapore. She works day in and day out to make sure customers are satisfied and welcomed in. There really is nothing quite like d’Bali Asian Bistro anywhere in Spokane or the Airway Heights area.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

Don't be intimidated! The key to making great curry at home is starting with the freshest ingredients possible to create your own curry paste. This recipe should give you enough paste to make this dish and still have lots left over – but the leftover curry paste will store in the fridge for up to two weeks, or if you freeze it in an ice cube tray, it can keep for up to six months!

INGREDIENTS Green Curry Paste • 1 cup fresh cilantro, chopped • 1/2 cup fresh Thai basil leaves • 3-4 green Thai bird chiles, chopped and deseeded (adjust to taste for spice level) • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 1 shallot, chopped • 1 stalk lemongrass, outer layers removed, finely chopped • 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and chopped • 2 Tbsp coriander seeds • 1 Tbsp cumin seeds • 1 tsp shrimp paste (optional) • 2 Tbsp fish sauce • 2 Tbsp Lime juice (optional, to taste) Green Curry Dish • 1 lb boneless chicken thighs, thinly sliced • 2 Tbsp green curry paste • 1 can (14 oz) coconut milk • 1 cup chicken or vegetable broth • 1 Tbsp vegetable oil • 2 Tbsp fish sauce • 1 Tbsp brown sugar • 1 onion, chopped • 1 carrot, chopped • 1 cup mixed vegetables (bell peppers, bamboo shoots, green beans, and zucchini work well) • 3-4 kaffir lime leaves, torn into pieces • 1 red chile, sliced (optional, for extra heat) • Fresh Thai basil leaves for garnish • Cooked jasmine rice for serving 12

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

Curry Paste Instructions: In a dry pan, toast the coriander seeds and cumin seeds, over medium heat until fragrant. Allow them to cool, then grind them into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. In a blender or food processor, combine the cilantro, basil, green chiles, garlic, shallot, lemongrass, ginger, ground coriander, ground cumin, ground black pepper, shrimp paste (if using), fish sauce, and lime juice. Blend the ingredients until you achieve a smooth paste. You may need to scrape down the sides of the blender or food processor a few times to ensure all the ingredients are well incorporated. Taste the green curry paste and adjust the seasoning according to your preference. You can add more fish sauce for saltiness, lime juice for acidity, or chiles for heat. Green Curry Dish Instructions: Cook 3 cups of jasmine rice in a rice cooker or stovetop pot. Heat the vegetable oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the green curry paste and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add the sliced chicken (or your choice of protein) to the pan. Cook until the chicken is browned on all sides. Add onion and carrot and saute in the green curry paste with chicken. Pour in the coconut milk and chicken or vegetable broth. Stir well to combine. Add fish sauce (or soy sauce for a vegetarian option) and brown sugar. Stir to combine. Add the mixed vegetables to the curry. Simmer for 10-15 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Tear the kaffir lime leaves into pieces and add them to the curry. If you like it spicy, add sliced red chile. Allow the curry to simmer for an additional 5-10 minutes until the flavors meld together. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Remove the curry from heat. Serve the green curry over jasmine rice and garnish with fresh basil leaves.

Complexity: Medium • Time: 30 minutes

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Serves: 4-6

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WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2024

GLOBAL PRODUCE AND FLORAL SHOW ORLANDO When Washington crop growers travel to the Global Produce and Floral Show, they get to share how special the Evergreen State is with a national audience.

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Each year, hundreds of growers, specialty crop commissions, and trade groups gather to celebrate American produce and meet with potential customers. Visitors to the Global Produce and Floral Show are likely to see colorful booths and displays from familiar brands like Dole, Green Giant, and Sunkist. One display booth that gathered a lot of attention during the 2023 show in Orlando was the Washington Grown display, where “Washington Grown” TV show host Tomás Guzmán helped show off a huge assortment of Washington state produce. A large delegation of Washington crop commissions, including Washington Blueberries, Washington Asparagus, Washington Potatoes, Washington Apples, and Washington Sweet Cherries all made the trip to Florida. Visitors to the exhibit could see and sample fruits and vegetables from the Evergreen State, but even more importantly, they could meet the people behind the produce. “A lot of trade is really dependent on relationships,” said Rianne Perry from the Washington State Department of Agriculture. “Tasting and touching and seeing the product is really important, but also just that one-onone building a relationship is really critical.” Like at any trade show, people running the display booths try different tactics to attract attention. Some brought their mascot, like the Chiquita Banana lady or

the bee from SugarBee Apples. The marketing team behind Avocados from Mexico brought a mariachi band. The result was that the entire convention felt like a party — a happy celebration of the natural bounty of agriculture. “It’s just a great place for people to come and see what’s new, in one big show. It’s a great way to showcase everything that our growers have been working hard for at home,” said Danelle Huber from CMI Orchards. “You meet so many fun people,” added Brandy Tucker from the Washington State Potato Commission, “and the fact that everybody is excited about agriculture makes me more excited about what I do.” The Washington growers who were present wanted to share a simple message with anyone interested: It’s important to educate the public about agriculture grown in their home state and to support those farmers, growers, and producers by seeking out foods that are Washington grown. “It makes me really proud, coming from Washington and seeing all of these companies here,” said Perry. “Just seeing the representation and being able to show off our products.”

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2023

INLAND NORTHWEST CULINARY ACADEMY

At the Inland Northwest Culinary Academy at Spokane Community College (SCC), students learn the business and cooking skills they need to succeed in the foodservice industry. Our Washington Grown team visited the academy during a lunchtime pop-up, where student chefs worked at food stations in front of a crowd of hungry customers, who lined up to get a taste of dishes like salmon curry, Kung Pao chicken, fried rice, or lettuce wraps. How does the pop-up work? The academy hosts frequent pop-up restaurants, and the concept for this event, which was held during international week, was a food festival focusing on cuisines from a different part of the world, largely Asia. Everything was led by the student chefs, who worked at action stations, preparing the food in front of the customers and chatting with them. “Customers have to be tolerant, patient,” said Laurent Zirotti, famed chef and frequent Washington Grown contributor, who is an instructor at the academy. “They have to be understanding that it’s not like a restaurant, where your expectations are very high.” So how was the food? Diners raved about the quality of the food served at the event. “They always do amazing food,” said one

attendee. “It’s really affordable, and then you’re helping students learn, so it’s like a win-win.” He looked down at the lettuce wrap in his hands. “I would have these every day if I could.” What do students learn at the culinary academy? The Inland Northwest Culinary Academy has a two-year curriculum broken into six sections — Starting Out; Basic Kitchen; Advanced Kitchen; Pastries; and Dining Area. There are six instructors, including Zirotti, and 30 students are admitted every fall, winter, and spring. What do students say about the program? One student chef, Natalie, said she grew up in a family that cooked really plain food, and she wanted to develop her cooking skills. “It’s definitely like being on one of those cooking shows,” she said. “Every test or anything, you get anxious; you’re waiting for what the chef says. It’s awesome.” What happens after students graduate? According to the SCC website, the program has a 100% job placement rate, so student chefs are basically guaranteed a job in a hotel, restaurant, or other food service venue when they graduate. If you ask us, those are some delicious odds.

The Washington Grown project is made possible by the Washington State Department of Agriculture and the USDA Specialty Crop Block Grant program, through a partnership with the state's farmers. Marketing Director Brandy Tucker Editor-in-Chief Kara Rowe Editor Jon Schuler

Assistant Editors Trista Crossley Elissa Sweet Writers Jon Schuler Elissa Sweet

Images Noreen Hiskey Sakuma Brothers Farm Unsplash Washington State Library Shutterstock Washington Grown

Executive Producers Kara Rowe David Tanner Chris Voigt Producer Ian Loe

Hosts Kristi Gorenson Tomás Guzmán Val Thomas-Matson