City guide Bruges: 2 walking tours Bruges

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This free travel guide contains the first of our waking tours of Bruges. Curious for more Bruges? Buy the complete digital guide (pdf – 53 pages A5, easy to print) for the price of 2 cups of coffee, and explore the city with an extra walking tour, lots of practical information, local legends and hidden gems.

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Latest update: November 2016

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This guide is a publication of The Media Bay. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without prior permission of the publisher.

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3 Buy the complete travel guide on shop.themediabay.be/en CONTENTS 1. HIGHLIGHTS OF BRUGES WALKING TOUR 5 2. THE WALK OF GATES 25 3. ABOUT BRUGES 45 1. History 45 2. Geography 46 3. Climate 46 4. Population 47 5. Events & festivals 47 4. TRAVEL INFO 49 1. How to get to Bruges 49 2. Transport in the city 49 3. Best time to visit 50 4. Dress code & what to take with you 50 5. Money 50 6. Opening hours shops & museums 50 7. Bruges City Card 51 8. Internet, 4G, mobile calls 51 9. Do’s & don’ts 51
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Along the canals (the “Brugse reien”)

1. highlighTS Of brugES walkiNg TOur

As the name suggests, our Highlights of Bruges walk takes you past some of the city’s most beautiful highlights and historic sites. Of course, the walk can show only a small selection from the wide range of monuments the city has to offer, but the route will also take you along other aspects of the city: the main shopping street, the Brugse reien (canals), the Minnewater (Lake of Love) and some lesser known but special places. We have not forgotten the culinary aspect, and in between, we provide you with some fun facts about Bruges.

Depending on the time you spend at each site, this walk will take between two hours and half a day. We do not take into account any museum visits and shopping you may do.For those who love counting, here’s a challenge: keep track of the number of Holy Mary and other figurines. You can find them on almost every street corner. We soon lost count, but there are at least a few hundred.

 Distance: 4 km

 Start & Finish: NMBS train station Bruges, Stationsplein, 8000 Bruges

 Accessible for wheelchair and strollers, however the cobblestones could pose a problem.

 No signage. Use the map in this publication.

The starting point of this walk is the station square at the front of the Bruges train station. This large square will undergo a makeover, with a complete reconstruction of the stops for the city and intercity buses of De Lijn (Flemish bus company) in the coming years.

Stand with your back to the station building facing the traffic lights and go to the other side of the busy road. There you go left. At the next traffic lights with De Oostmeers, you will see you a cobbled passage through the green in front of you. That is the one you should take.

Keep following this green zone straight ahead. You will pass a statue of King Albert I. The trail runs parallel to the roadway and will bring you to a large red building: the Concertgebouw. Just after, you’ll arrive at a large square, ’t Zand, with a central fountain. You’ve arrived at point 2 on the map.

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legend Directions Sight 1
1 A

Highlights of Bruges walking tour

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A ‘t Zand

The Concert Hall (Concertgebouw) was opened in 2002, when Bruges was the European Capital of Culture. West Flanders didn’t have a location where major orchestras and international companies could perform. Money was found in the Flemish community, the province and the city of Bruges, and an architectural competition was launched. The design of the architects Paul Robbrecht and Hilde Daem won. The building’s cornerstone was laid in June 2000, and a year and a half later, it opened. The Concert Hall also houses the tourist office of Bruges.

www.concertgebouw.be

The first trains to Bruges arrived on ’t Zand in about 1840. Soon the first station building became too small. It was taken down in 1879 and rebuilt in another town, Ronse, where it still stands today.

The last train departed from the square a few years before World War II.

’t Zand took its present form in the early 1980s. In 1986, the large fountain was constructed, which consists of four statue groups. The ladies in bathing suits each represent a Flemish city (Antwerp, Bruges, Ghent and Kortrijk). The cyclists refer to some Flemish folk heroes such as Tijl Uilenspiegel. A fisherman represents the bond with the sea, and the mermaid represents land reclaimed from the sea.

In the autumn of 2016, the plaza will be redesigned from scratch. The fountain will be moved to the King Albert I Park, which you passed earlier.

If you walk from the concert hall towards the fountain, and you’re on the same level as the fountain, turn right into a shopping street called Zuidzandstraat, which then turns into the Steenstraat. Halfway through, you find the St Salvator Cathedral. Walk through this street until you reach the market. Sometimes you’ll pass an entrance to an alley. Feel free to peep inside to soak up some local atmosphere.

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B St Salvator Cathedral

Construction of the city’s oldest parish church began in the 12th century, but it would take several centuries to complete the St Salvator Cathedral. Visitors especially admire the ornate baroque rood screen with organ, both from the 17th century. Moreover, the cathedral also has many superb works of art, such as paintings of the Flemish School from the 15th to 18th centuries, sculptures from the 15th and 16th centuries, and a marble baptismal font. At the entrance, immediately to your left you find the baptistry (1360), and in the space next to it you will see some special crypts. They were discovered during work activities between 1989 and 1993. Even now there are restoration works in progress, with expected completion date sometime in 2017.

 Check website for opening hours

 Free admission

 www.sintsalvator.be

Just past the cathedral, you will pass the Simon Stevinplein. In the middle you find the statue of Simon Stevin, a physicist and mathematician born in Bruges in 1548. You also get a view of the Church of Our Lady. Again, you’ll see a wide variety of cosy shops, cafes and restaurants. Do you see the well? In the Middle Ages it stood at the Vleeshuis.

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Left: Station building Right: St Salvator Cathedral
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Top: Belfry Bottom: Jan Breydel and Pieter De Coninck at the Market

From the statue of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, heroes of the Battle of the Golden Spurs, you will get the best view of the Belfry and the magnificent façades of the market. The Historium is housed in one of those big buildings. You will notice some scallop shell images on the ground in the square. They are the St Jamesscallop shells, which guide pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela. One of the pilgrimage routes runs through the Bruges Market.

C Historium

The Historium was opened in late 2012 and takes visitors back to the Middle Ages. During the course of an hour, you visit seven different halls. Each of them lets you experience the atmosphere of the 15th century. The main theme is the painting studio of Van Eyck, which still needs a few attributes and a model to finish one of his masterpieces. Although the story is fictional, each of the seven sets in which the story is projected is historically correct. The visit takes place in groups of 20 people, maximum. You will exit through the Duvelorium, a beer bar where you can relax with a Duvel or another Belgian beer.

The Historium is situated next to the neo-Gothic building owned by the Provincial Government. It was built at the end of the 19th century and is known as the “Provinciaal Hof”.

 Open daily from 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. (except on Christmas and New Year’s Day)

 Paid access. Reservations can be made online but are not necessary.

 www.historium.be

D Belfry

It is impossible to ignore the Belfry and the corresponding halls. Go stand right in front of the Belfry at the market. Now look closely at the two corner towers with merlons (crenellations) next to the clock. Focus your gaze on the space between these towers and the central tower. You can see that on the left side (the side of the Wollestraat) there is barely space in between, but on the right hand side you can see space in between. That’s right—the central tower is leaning over a bit. Nearly one metre!

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The Belfry is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is the most popular attraction in Bruges. Each year, some 250,000 visitors visit it. If you climb the 366 stairs to reach the top of the 83-metre tower, you can enjoy some magnificent views over the city and surrounding areas. The tower used to be 19 metres higher when it had a wooden spire. However, it was destroyed by lightning in 1741. The spire was partially restored, but after 1822, the tower got its present neo-Gothic look.

The original purpose of the Belfry was a watch-tower, because a number of fires ravaged the city during the Middle Ages. From the second half of the 15th century, guards scouted day and night from top of the tower to find the slightest trace of fire whilst simultaneously looking out for potential enemies.

In the Belfry, you will find the carillon from Bruges, which has 47 bells. You will be able to visit the room where the clock hangs, and you will find the bell ringer. You will also pass the treasury, where among other things the city treasury and the city deeds were kept during the Middle Ages.

You can not book a ticket in advance, and it may happen that you have to queue; this is for safety reasons, as the Belfry allows a maximum of 70 people.

 Open daily (except Our Lord Ascension, Christmas and New Year).

 Paid access

 https://bezoekers.brugge.be/musea-brugge-4

After visiting the market, go to the Belfry. Step through the stone entrance gate into the courtyard. Go directly across, but do not forget to first turn around and enjoy the beautiful view of the back of the Belfry.

After walking through the narrow passage, you arrive at the Oude Burg. Walk through the gallery to the left until the intersecstion with the Wollestraat. Again, go left there. You should definitely look up to the rococo house at number 9. Someone is there day and night, continually making lace.

The end of the Wollestraat brings you back to the market. Now go to the right, into the Breidelstraat. On your left is the Bruges Beer Museum. A little farther on your right you pass the narrowest street in Bruges. It can be closed with an iron gate, and it seems to be part of a shop.

A few metres farther and you arrive at the Burg, a square with lots of sights to see: when you arrive at the square, you can see the entrance to the Basilica of the Holy Blood in your right-hand corner. Right in front of you, you see the city hall, and to the left of that you find the Brugse Vrije (Mansion of the Liberty of Bruges). At the corner

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of Breidelstraat and de Burg, at numbers 1 and 2, you find the baroque Proosdij, which belonged to the now demolished St Donatian’s Cathedral.

E Burg

The Basilica of the Holy Blood, at number 10, where the relic of the Holy Blood is worshipped, actually consists of two chapels, one above the other. The lower part, the Chapel of St. Basil’s, was built in Romanesque style and is the only fully intact, preserved Romanesque church of West Flanders. The chapel was built in the mid-12th-century by Thierry of Alsace in order to preserve the relic of the Holy Blood. Above, the Holy Blood Chapel, where the relic is now stored, has a more neo-gothic look. In 1923 the two chapels were elevated to the Basilica of the Holy Blood.

Who brought the Holy Blood to Bruges? For a long time it was believed that the Count of Flanders, Thierry of Alsace, was given a few drops of blood during the Second Crusade and brought it to Bruges as a reward for his heroism. The official handover would have happened on April 7, 1150. However, the first written document about the Holy Blood dates from 1256, more than a century later. This suggests that it ended up in Bruges after 1150. In Constantinople, a relic of the Holy Blood was kept in a chapel. When the Crusaders took Constantinople in 1203, the relic was captured. Baldwin IX, another Count of Flanders, was crowned emperor. He would have been the one who sent a few relics of the Passion of Christ to Flanders, including Bruges.

The annual Feast of the Ascension of Our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ includes the Procession of the Holy Blood, which is a big parade with floats depicting scenes and events from the Old and New Testaments. To commemorate the arrival of the Blood in Bruges, the shrine with the relic is paraded through the city’s streets.

 Open daily from 9:30 a.m. - noon and 2 p.m. - 5 p.m.

 The Basilica is free. The treasury/museum has paid entrance.

 www.holyblood.com

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Right: Gothic Hall in the City Hall Left: Holy Blood Basilica Bottom: Fish market

The Bruges City Hall (at number 12) is considered one of the oldest in the Old Netherlands. The most remarkable part of the building is the Gothic Hall, with its very beautiful wooden vault and historical murals (19th century). In this space numerous works of art and documents referring to the rich history of the city are exhibited.

 Open daily (except Ascension Day, Christmas and New Year)

 Paid Access: combo ticket with the Liberty of Bruges

 https://bezoekers.brugge.be/musea-brugge-4

Over the centuries, the Mansion of the Liberty of Bruges (Burg 11) had various purposes. After the first construction period (1525), the building served as a manor house of the Bruges region, but after the second construction period (1727) the court was housed here. Later the building served as a tourist office. Now it houses the City Archives. The most beautiful part is undoubtedly the former Alderman Room with a beautiful fireplace made of various materials (alabaster, wood and marble) dating from the 16th century.

 Open daily (except Ascension Day, Christmas and New Year)

 Paid Access: combo ticket with the City Hall

 https://bezoekers.brugge.be/musea-brugge-4

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Once you’ve seen everything on the Burg, the walk continues through the narrow street between City Hall and the Liberty of Bruges: Blinde Ezelstraatje (Blind Donkey Lane). This street brings you to the fish market. You notice the beauty of the Blind Donkey Lane only when you’re walking through it. Turn your back to the fish market, watch and enjoy.

F Fish Market

Just like centuries ago, fish is still sold today in the covered fish market. Meanwhile, artists and jewelry stalls have also found their way here.

For deliciously prepared seafood, you can go to the seafood restaurants around this pleasant square. You’ll also find some seafood restaurants on the Huidenvettersplein, which you will visit later.

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Before you explore the fish market, first take a left at the Steenhouwersdijk and walk until the first bridge. Winter or summer, someone is always there, sunbathing on his belly. You can now also see the two oldest bridges in the city: the Meebrug and the Peerdenbrug. After this, retrace your steps, and with the fish market at your back, go straight to the Huidenvettersplein, which is full of bars and small artists’ shops. A little bit ahead, you arrive at the Rozenhoedkaai. Here, you’re never alone.

You’re at the Rozenhoedkaai, one of the most photographed spots in Bruges. Follow the water along the Dijver untill the unpaved portion ends at a zebra crossing.

When you reach the first bridge, you will see him, St. John Nepomuk, the patron saint of bridges and flooding. No wonder that the good man also has found a place in Bruges!

Bridges in Bruges

Bruges is often called “the Venice of the North”, thanks to the number of bridges in the city. Do you have any idea how many there are?

If you count all the bridges, including the ones outside the city, there are about 70. If we limit ourselves to the bridges in the historic center, we count 43. The oldest are the Peerdenbrug and Meebrug.

That seems a lot, but other cities, within Belgium and abroad, have many more. Utrecht, for example, has 90, Ghent has 125, and Venice, which Bruges is compared to, has around 400. But the somewhat unexpected frontrunner is Hamburg, Germany. The counter there stops at... 2,400!

Want to see a forgotten cannon sticking out of the sidewalk? Walk across the bridge with St. John Nepomuk and walk about 50 metres into the Wollestraat. On the corner with the Karthuizerinnenstraat, on your left, you can see a cannon in the sidewalk. At least, the barrel of a cannon. The carriage on which the cannon was resting is gone. You have to know it’s there to find it, otherwise you will probably just pass it without noticing it. It looks like an ordinary iron pole. Troops of the army of Oranje Nassau left it during their retreat in 1631. You must admit it’s a rather strange war relic in an otherwise typical shopping street.

Return and cross the Heilige Johannes Nepomuk Bridge to continue the walk.

Langs de Dyver wachten je twee monumenten en tegelijkertijd musea van formaat:

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Along the Djiver, two monuments and great museums await you: the building at number 12 is the Groeninge Museum, and a bit up the road, at number 17, you’ll find the Gruuthuse Museum.

G Groeninge- and Gruuthuse Museum

The Groeninge Museum has a superb collection of Flemish paintings dating from the 15th to the 20th centuries. The highlights of the collection are works by the Flemish Primitives (van Eyck, Memling and others), but in addition, you will also find works from the Renaissance and Baroque periods, and even a number of Flemish expressionists.

The Gruuthuse Museum was once the palace of the Lords of Gruuthuse. Now you can admire objects that illustrate life between the 15th and 19th centuries, such as jewelry and utensils, but also a guillotine. Because of restoration work, the museum is closed until the end of 2017.

 Open daily from 9:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.. Closed on Mondays.

 Paid access

https://bezoekers.brugge.be/musea-brugge-4

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Rozenhoedkaai
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Top: Gruuthuse Museum Left: Church of Our Lady Right:Bonifacius bridge

At point 7, cross the zebra crossing and enter the gate immediately. You are now in a courtyard. At number 16, on your right, you find the Arentshuis Museum.

The Arentshuis is an 18th-century mansion that offers temporary exhibits on the ground floor. On the upper floor there is a permanent exhibit on Frank Brangwyn (1867-1956), a British artist with roots in Bruges. He was not only a painter, but he also designed ceramics, furniture, and jewelry.

If you buy a ticket here, you can enter the Groeningemuseum for free.

To continue our walk, go to the right in the corner of the garden. There you cross a small bridge, the Bonifaciusbridge, one of the most photographed places in Bruges. Although the bridge looks medieval, it isn’t. It was built in 1910, very long after the Middle Ages. To top it off, the bust in the background of a rather sad-looking man (because he hardly gets attention from the tourists?) is not that of St Bonifacius, but of a Spaniard, Juan Luis Vives, an educator from Valencia.

Make your way across the bridge and walk around the Church of Our Lady.

H Church of Our Lady

You can’t ignore the 122-metre-high brick tower of the Church of Our Lady. It is the second highest brick building in the world. The Church has a long construction history, from early 13th century to the 15th. It is currently also being restored.

The church contains unparalleled works of art. The main attraction is a statue by Michelangelo: Madonna with Child, made out of white marble. In the church, you can also admire the tombs of Charles the Bold and Mary of Burgundy next to a beautiful marble altar.

 Open daily from 9:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m., except on worship hours

 Paid access

 https://bezoekers.brugge.be/musea-brugge-4

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Take a left at number 8 on the map and follow this road (Mariastraat) until you come to a street called Walstraat. But first, you can visit the Old St John’s Hospital.

I Old St John’s hospital

In the Old St John’s Hospital, you can see the furniture, artworks and objects from the hospital’s past. You will visit the wards, chapel, dormitory and pharmacy. You will also find paintings by Hans Memling.

 Open daily from 9:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.. Closed on Mondays.

 Paid access

 https://bezoekers.brugge.be/musea-brugge-4

The Hospice of Spanoghe

Only a few metres past the Mariabrug you should look for the narrow entrance to an alleyway between two shops on your right. A little archway reads “Godshuis Spanoghe 1680”. An almost unknown passageway leads to an even less familiar, quiet courtyard. Feel free to walk to the end and be surprised by the view. At the entrance of the alley you find an information board about the hospice.

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Old St John’s Hospital
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9

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At number 9 on the map, turn into the narrow Walstraat (follow the signs “Minnewater” and “Begijnhof”). This is how you reach the Walplein.

At Walplein, turn left and follow this road until the end. Then go right (Wijngaardstraat). You’re now at the Minnewater (the Lake of Love).

J The Half Moon Home brewery

Need to relax? How about a peek at Brouwerij De Halve Maan (The Half Moon Home brewery), which was already mentioned in the 16th century and is now the only active family brewery in the city? Several tours are organized every day. Take some time to taste a Brugse Zot beer.

 Guided tours between 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. (Saturday 5 p.m.)

 Paid access

www.halvemaan.be

Minnewater (Lake of Love)

Once the Minnewater was of great economic importance: here docked the barges that were sailing back and forward to Ghent. Today it is mainly the food service industry ensuring economic activity. Of course there is also the very beautiful and romantic setting that attracts many visitors.

According to legend, the Saxon pirate’s daughter Minna was found dying by her love, Morin. He shifted the river temporarily by building a dam to bury Minna there. He then broke the dam down again to give Minna an underwater grave. According to another story, the name Minnewater is a reference to “minnen”. These water spirits dwelt especially under bridges, according to medieval tales.

At the Lake of Love, go immediately to the right and walk over the bridge. Do not forget to take pictures! Go through the gatehouse into the Beguinage. The Beguinage was founded in 1245. Beguines lived there for centuries, but now the sisters of the Order of Saint Benedict house here.

On the left you have the Begijnhofkerk (Beguinage church), which is accessible for free. Make sure to step inside. With a free leaflet in your hand, you can be ensured of a well-documented visit.

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K
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Top: Minnewater Left: Beguinage Right: Poertoren

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At the exit of the Begijnhofkerk, turn left on the cobblestones. Take a left again, through the gatehouse and then immediately take a right. You are now back at the Minnewater. We follow this road until the end of the path along the water. At a bridge crossing the Minnewater, you arrive at one of the many towers in Bruges.

L Poertoren

The Poertoren is a fortress tower built in 1398. In 1477 it began to be used as a warehouse and workshop for gunpowder, hence its name, which was preserved throughout the centuries. A second tower was quite close to this one, but it has since been demolished.

Opposite the Poertoren, you will find a notice board where you can see the oldest preserved picture of Bruges. Here you can also read some information about the Minnewater (Lake of Love) and the environment.

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At number 13 on the map, take a right and continue until the next intersection with the Oostmeers street. Take a left there, and you will immediately see the station building, signaling the end of our walk.

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PhOTO CrEdiTS

All pictures are taken by our in house photographer Yves Verfaillie, with the exception of:

• Jan Breydel & Pieter De Coninck at the Market: Dariusz Sieczkowski

• Gruuthuuse Museum: Wolfgang Staudt

• Old St John’s Hospital: Marie-Lise Van Wassenhove

• Market & Belfry: WolfgangS taudt

• Kruispoort: LouS alomé

• Lace-making: Carol Ventura

diSClaimEr

We get our information from reliable and selected sources, but we cannot be held responsible for any incorrect information, nor for the use of this information and its possible adverse effects.

We would highly appreciate it if you would pass any comments, additions or erroneous information on to us at info@themediabay.be.

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Latest update: November 2016

© All rights reserved

This guide is a publication of The Media Bay. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without prior permission of the publisher.

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This free travel guide contains the first of our waking tours of Bruges. Curious for more Bruges? Buy the complete digital guide (pdf – 53 pages A5, easy to print) for the price of 2 cups of coffee, and explore the city with an extra walking tour, lots of practical information, local legends and hidden gems.

>> Buy the complete travel guide on shop.themediabay.be

Buy the complete travel guide on shop.themediabay.be/en

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