Variant Magazine Vol. 7 Issue 2: Under The Microscope

DEAR R E A D E R , When it came time to decide on the theme for our spring issue, our team faced immense difficulty sorting through all of the compelling ideas generated by our members—ideas that I hope you see come to life in the future. We wanted to create something unique, different, variant, and what else could provide that but completely inverting the perceptions of art?

As a campus fashion magazine, we pride ourselves on our artistic capabilities, which allow us to create detailed visuals meant to awaken something in our audience.Very rarely does this coincide with some of the more academic topics available to us— that we have learned about since the beginning, concepts that often seem to be the antithesis of art…concepts like science.

Why should these two entities—art and science—be enemies of one another? Why must we always choose between them? Why must one be considered more important or intelligent than the other? And, honestly, why can’t they both be sexy and fun?

In this issue of VARIANT, we will take you through a journey highlighting the many intersections of art and science, exploring the intricacies of our world, and seeing just how mutually inclusive they can really be.

We will learn from Iris van Herpen how to find beauty in light and movement (pg. 10).

We will illuminate the diverse faces and stories within STEM, celebrating the invaluable contributions of women and minorities (pg. 34).

We will look at fashion for a changing climate and the ways in which you can change your wardrobe to help both yourself and our environment (pg.

18).

We will delve into the world of petri dishes and the different ways that mold, of all things, can be the inspiration for an entire look (pg. 26).

We will hear from fashion expert and biologist, Dr.Victoria Geaney, who is working to understand how humans can use microorganisms to create mind-blowing new designs (pg. 40).

We will capture the intricate beauty of anatomy-inspired fashion, while also showcasing the constantly changing health trends in society (pg. 43).

We will see what it is like to adapt to our situations, whether we are looking to blend in or stand out. As style writer Riley Clark asserts, “Humans adapt to overcome” (pg. 56).

We will shine a light on the enduring legacy of medical ethics violations emphasizing the need for

systemic reforms to address healthcare disparities (pg. 62).

And lastly, we will say goodbye to our seniors (pg. 64). Thank you for all you have done, I can’t wait to see you do wonderful things out there in our great big world but know I will miss you all greatly.

With that, I give to you… VARIANT: Under the Microscope.

Sincerely, Emma Friend

VARIANT MAGAZINE

EDITOR IN CHIEF EXECUTIVE EDITOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR

EMMA FRIEND JOEY EARLEY MADELINE MELRAGON EMMA BHATT

ART DIRECTOR JACK WILBURN

TREASURER KENJI SMITH

CHIEF OF PHOTOGRAPHY EVIE SEARS, KRISTEN MEYER

COPY CHIEF MADS KINNISON

PHOTOGRAPHERS TATI ALSTON, KATHERINE BUNSEY, PRINCE AMOA-MENSA, KALI KNUDSON, TORA BLAMER, SKYLAR SEAVEY, MEG REES, KENADI SOURS

COPY EDITOR SOPHIE NEILSEN

PHOTO EDITORS THEO MCCUDDEN, AMALIA FELICIANO

WRITERS RILEY BROWN, KATE TOCKE, MALLORY MENZ, LIBBY EVANS, RILEY CLARK, OLIVIA HARDING, GRACE STENGEL

PHOTO ASSISTANT MEG REES

HEAD OF VIDEOGRAPHY OLIVIA LUTZ

WEB EDITOR MIMI CALHOUN

VIDEOGRAPHERS BRADEN HOUSEHOLDER, MIERAE TAYLOR, LEO ERNEST, SOPHIE HINER, LILITH ROBERTS, SAM SPENCER, HENRY DAY, EVAN CASTEEL

HEAD OF DIGITAL TECH KRISTEN MEYER PUBLICATION DESIGN DIRECTOR ABBY LINDLEY PUBLICATION DESIGN ASSOCIATES MADDIE JAMES, ZOE CRANFILL DESIGNERS DYLAN REED, AUBREY CLINE, JULIA GREENWOOD, SKYLAR SEAVEY, MIMI CALHOUN, OLIVIA LUTZ, LAUREN DAMICO HEAD OF MAKEUP SOPHIA PARRILLO MAKEUP ARTISTS LAUREN FOUNDS, KILEE LEONARD, KIANDRA MARTIN, LAUREN DAMICO, ASLYN FANNIN, ALEXIS KY, OLIVIA LUTZ, RILEY CLARK, JACK WILBURN, CAMERON GARDNER

HEAD OF STYLING LILITH ROBERTS STYLISTS MARGIE BEHRENS, CAMERON GARDNER, AUDREY HAYES, ASLYN FANNIN, OLIVIA BRINKS, RILEY CLARK, MAXWELL GRUHN, STELLA WILLIAMS, KRISTEN MEYER, MICHEALA EVANS, LIV URLAGE, SUNEE WATTHANAPHAND, OLIVIA SEIFERT, HALIMA DIAGANA, BROOKLYNN BECKFORD HEAD OF EVENT PLANNING BREAUNA SAUNDERS HEAD OF PUBLIC RELATIONS RILEY BROWN PUBLIC RELATIONS ASSOCIATE KYLIE SIMMONS PUBLIC RELATIONS AUDREY HAYES, LIBBY EVANS, RILEY CLARK, OLIVIA BRINKS, RENAE HEFTY, ALEX SMITH, HAYLEY MITCHELL

MODELS

Genesis Motley, Abby Lindley, Anson Battoclette, Olivia Lutz, Kilee Leonard, Max Faass, Libby Evans, Mads Kinnison, Kat Mostyn, Rosie Mogford, Jacob Winterton, María Del Mar Segui Irizarry, Olivia Brinks, Maxwell Gruhn, Elena Delach, Kat Goecke, Laredo Cienik, Nandi Gott, Sophie Hiner, Emily Sudnick, Micheala Evans, Analyssa Torres, Carmen Szukaitis, Emily Harasin, Hali Bridges, Margie Behrens, Natasha Magati, Brooklyn Beckford, Riley Clark, Mimi Calhoun, Emma Khayat, Emma Seyfang, Phoenix Curry Garcia, Olivia Seifert, Halima Diagana, Sunee Watthanaphand, Cameron Gardner, Paige Reagan, Sarah Goecke, Paige O’Brien, and Naima Miller

STAY CONNECTED WITH US VARIANTMAGAZINE.COM / @VRNTMAGAZINE

EXEC UTIVE BOARD SPRING 24

I R I S VA N H E R P E N : REALIZES THE BEAUTY OF SERENITY IN T H E C H AO S O F MOVEMENT PG. 10

B E YO N D T H E L A B : MAKEUP INSPIRED

BY DASHA PLESEN PETRI DISH ART PG. 26

C O M B AT T I N G T H E C L I M AT E W H I L E LO O K I N G YO U R BEST PG. 18

DIVERISTY FUELING I N N O VAT I O N : W H AT I N S P I R E S YO U TO P U R S U E STEM? PG. 34

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE

BIOLUMINESCENCE: A C O N V E R S AT I O N W I T H D R . V I C TO R I A GEANEY PG. 40

B I O H AC K I N G YO U R L I F E : N A V I G AT I N G SOCIAL MEDIA H E A LT H T R E N D S PG. 42

UNVEILING THE TUSKEGEE EXPERIMENT: A D D R E S S I N G H E A LT H D I S PA R I T I E S I N H I S T O R Y A N D T O D AY PG. 62

FASHION AS A FOOD CHAIN PG. 56

FAREWELL PG. 64

VA R I A N T M AG A Z I N E

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Realizes the Beauty of Serenity in the Chaos of Movement WRITTEN BY LIBBY EVANS PHOTOS BY SKYLAR SEAVY DESIGNED BY LAUREN DAMICO

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eauty lies in exploring all the layers of life,” Iris Van Herpen says.

The layers of life: light, movement, wonder, chaos and mystery, all sourced from both nature and human form. Dutch couture fashion designer Iris Van Herpen seeks out discreet phenomena of the world and connects them visually and physically to the human body through avant-garde technology, stretching the boundaries of art and fashion to something inventive and unprecedented.

Van Herpen graduated from ArtEZ University of the Arts in Arnhem, Netherlands in 2006 and started her own label in 2007, showcasing her first collection at the Amsterdam fashion week. In 2009, Lady Gaga wore Van Herpen for the first time, and in 2011 Van Herpen was recognized by Time magazine for a 3D printed dress as “One of the best 50 inventions of 2011.” According to her website, she takes inspiration from

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her childhood training for classical ballet. This passion for physical art and kinesthetics translates into fashion with fascination for movement and the female form.Van Herpen describes this as calculating the body with the space around it “honoring the nature of the body in the process.” She fabricates this by “translating a piece of dance into a garment; evoking kinaesthetic sensations through dressing.”

Van Herpen’s autumn and fall collection of 2016 called “Seijaku” explores cymatics, the study of visible sound and vibration on matter.

Higher, complex frequencies result in more intricate patterns. This concept illustrates biomimicry with the crystallization of snowflakes, the designs of turtle shells and faces of flowers replicating those of cymatic frequencies—in other words, making the invisible visible.Van Herpen aims to recreate this natural reflection in her work.

The Japanese word “Seijaku” directly translates to “silence,” but the word holds a cultural significance as the concept of serenity amidst life’s chaos. The collection instills this by enfolding peace in visual representations of dissonance.

Cymatics is harmony within chaos; pattern and fluidity hidden somewhere unexpected.

To immerse the audience in her concept,

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Van Herpen collaborated with Japanese musician Kazuya Nagaya who composes auditory experiences with bronze balls, bells and singing bowl sound meditation, a cultural musical healing method originating from the Himalayas and commonly found in Buddhist temples throughout Asia. A study from the National Institute of Health says this sound meditation can

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improve blood pressure, heart rate and respiratory rate, while also reducing feelings of anxiety and depression.

Think of nails on a chalkboard or the scrape of a metal fork on a plate.

It evokes an uncomfortable feeling almost resembling physical pain from within. Now, think of a beautiful choir or the chirping of crickets; it enkindles peace. This is because sound waves move matter, and these frequencies move directly through the body.

Ultra-sound therapy is used in hospitals to stimulate muscles, relax tissue, improve local blood flow and break down scar tissue. Scientific research explains how different kinds of human cells hold different vibrational frequencies, vibrating slower when diseased or stressed. Everything we do or consume can impact these frequencies. New technology even detects malfunctions matching irregular vibrations to those of common diseases.

Albert Einstein once said, “Everything in

life is vibration.” The universal law of vibration explains everything in the universe, every person, particle and star is in a constant state of vibration at different frequencies. Thoughts are electrical signals through neurons in the brain. This energy holds frequencies that vibrate internally and externally. Through these frequencies, we become what we think and attract what we are. Each thought and feeling is a note to a song that calls the name of every deep desire or fear. It’s difficult to believe in something invisible, but think of the emotion evoked from a packed stadium singing in unison. It’s emotional, full and profound. Silence is uncomfortable because we are not silent. We are filled with music that touches everything in its wake, even if we can’t hear it.

Nothing alive sits still. A dancer translates her human body into a symphony, and the movement becomes sound. Senses blend and curves have colors. The air around her fills with vibration and feeling.Van Herpen understands this and reaches into the void to fabricate another wonder of the world in something worn. The collection describes one thousand blown glass bubbles illuminating the refracted light of skin, state-of-the-art stitching of pearls to rubber fabric creating fossils and flowers, and unique cymatic patterns emerging from hand-plisséed Japanese organza woven from threads five times thinner than human hair.

Iris Van Herpen dreams of the future of fashion as more than image. She wants physical art to tell a story in ways that move us to rethink everything we thought we were capable of. Her testimony shares this mission “to empower women and to deepen the reasoning of creating fashion,” and “to ultimately celebrate new beauty through ‘the art to dress.’”

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VAN HERPAN UNDERSTANDS THIS AND REACHES INTO THE VOID TO FABRICATE ANOTHER WONDER OF THE WORLD IN SOMETHING WORN.”

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COMBATTING THE CLIMATE WHILE LOOKING YOUR BEST. WRITTEN BY KATE TOCKE PHOTOS BY TATI ALSTON PHOTOS BY KENADI SOURS DESIGNED BY AUBREY CLINE

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DURING THE COLDER MONTHS LAYERS ARE EXTREMELY FASHIONABLE AND GIVE YOU CREATIVE LEEWAY.”

ooking good is probably the first thing that comes to mind when crafting an outfit but in an unpredictable climate, it is smart to be ethical.

Dressing appropriately is very important when it can be below freezing and snowing, or severely hot with the sun beating down.

My mom always made sure I was bundled up with all the layers during the winter months and wearing light layers with sunscreen during the summer vacation. During these times of year it can be hard to also look trendy and fashionable, but it is not as challenging as it presents itself to be. I once thought that because I had to wear a puffy winter jacket, my outfit was ruined, but that is not the case. During the colder months layers are extremely fashionable and give you creative leeway with your outfits. The same goes for hotter weather and you can cover yourself as long as you find the right materials that are light and comfortable.

While living in this climate, the best thing to prepare for is almost anything at any time. Just recently, we have been experiencing abnormally high temperatures for the beginning of February. Just weeks ago we were walking to class in just a hoodie and jeans, while this past weekend it was snowing. Our

weather is constantly changing and very unreliable.

You must always expect the unexpected and I am here to guide you through these crazy weather conditions.

In Athens, it is easy to predict that spring will come sooner than you think. That can either mean very warm sunny days or many rainy days ahead.

You can style textiles such as chiffon and lace that are lighter and can cover your entire body during a warm sunny day. These fabrics are also different from everyday clothing so they add that unique touch to your outfit. This is also very helpful for people of cultures or preferences that prevent them from showing as much skin during the summer. You can accomplish this look by styling clothes that are full length and comfortable.

Many spring days in Athens can start out at very chilly temperatures then rise to very hot numbers once the sun comes out. Especially if you are running from class to class all day you do not have the time to go home and change. My number one tip for you during that odd time of the year is to wear layers that are easily removable.That way, when the sun starts to come out you can just start taking off those layers, or start with a heavy layer on top of

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lighter one. It is also important to factor in the impact these fabrics have on our planet. Many of these unrecyclable textiles are reasons why we experience these unexpected weather conditions.

So, factoring in sustainable clothing is climatefriendly.

The extreme consumption of textiles and the trend of fast fashion is majorly affecting our planet. Fast fashion uses non-sustainable textiles and makes clothing cheaper so people are willing to purchase it. These items of clothing will only last so long then head right to the landfill. One of the notable textiles has to be nylon. Many are tempted to wear nylon during rainy weather because it is what most raincoats and windbreakers are made of.

My recommendation for you if you are tempted to

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wear fabrics that are harmful to the environment is to purchase them from a thrift store or get them second hand somehow.This helps reduce the waste.

Donating the item back to a thrift store after you are done with the item also will help reduce the environmental harm because they are not being thrown out and made again.

Fashion and clothing is such a big factor of our lifestyles, as it should be, but there are many costs to fashion. It can seem that if it’s affordable it is bad for the environment, but if it’s good for the environment, the price is outrageous. It is super important to be educated on the clothes you buy and how it affects the planet. Saving the planet and looking good while doing it truly is possible.

THERE ARE MANY COSTS TO FASHION.”

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BEYOND THE LAB PHOTOS BY KALI KNUDSON DESIGNED BY ABBY LINDLEY

makeup inspired

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INNOVATION

Fueling Innovation:

What Drives You to Pursue STEM?

WRITTEN BY OLIVIA HARDING PHOTOS BY TORA BLAMER DESIGNED BY SKYLAR SEAVEY

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“Heterogeneous teams are more likely to generate groundbreaking solutions to complex problems.

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iversity in a STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math) related field is not only beneficial to the development and improvement of our society, but it is extremely important for our generation, and the generations that follow. Those who go into a STEM field intend to apply concepts, solve challenges and attempt to understand our ever-changing world. As these ambitious goals are being pursued, there is a growing need for a larger STEM workforce in order to meet these demands.

While working in a STEM-related field can be incredibly rewarding, it is also important to acknowledge how challenging and taxing this venture can be. The innovations, ideas, and conclusions reached are never spontaneously created out of thin air; they come from the ingenuity and intelligence of groups of talented, hard-working individuals.

This idea of collaboration plays a pivotal role in order to problem solve and think outside the box. People’s unique experiences and perspectives allow them to approach problems in a different way, which can lead to the development of more innovative solutions and nonlinear thinking.

Consider for a moment the vast array of perspectives that diverse voices bring to the table. In research laboratories, heterogeneous teams are more likely to generate groundbreaking solutions to complex problems. Different cultural backgrounds and life experiences can lead to unique insights that may have otherwise been overlooked. In engineering projects, diverse teams can better anticipate the needs of diverse communities, making sure that technological advancements are accessible and inclusive.

Furthermore, representation matters deeply in STEM fields, and in all other disciplines.

When individuals from underrepresented groups see themselves reflected in scientific fields, it Under The Microscope

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ignites a sense of possibility and potential. stating, “I firmly believe that it is the It sends the true and powerful message responsibility of current chemists and that STEM is for everyone—regardless of scientists to solve the problems originally race, gender, ethnicity, or sexual orientation. created by science, like plastic pollution, This representation not only inspires future climate change, and non-renewable energy, generations but also dismantles stereotypes which is why I am passionate about and biases that have historically hindered sustainable chemistry and will pursue that in progress in STEM fields in the past. my future career.”

A robust STEM enterprise relies In both cases, the Emilys articulate on the creativity, innovation, and technical their personal interests, experiences, and skills that a diverse group of individuals can long-term goals within their respective provide. But what STEM fields. They exactly motivates demonstrated a deep ”I firmly believe that it these individuals passion for their chosen is the responsibility of to pursue a STEM disciplines and a desire field, and why is it so to make meaningful current chemists and crucial? What makes contributions to scientific scientists to solve the being in a marginalized research and societal group and in a STEM issues. They embody the problems originally field different from importance of diversity in created by science, another discipline?

STEM fields, showcasing how individuals from When asked like plastic pollution, varied backgrounds bring why she pursued a climate change, and nonunique perspectives and STEM related major, renewable energy, which solutions to complex, Emily Sudnick, a scientific problems. Their senior here at Ohio is why I am passionate aspirations emphasize the University, explains, about sustainable need for representation “I decided to study biology because I’ve chemistry and will pursue in STEM to encourage innovation and address always loved tiny that in my future career. ” societal issues. organisms. I even had a kid’s microscope Diversity in STEM when I was 8. Trying is not merely a matter to understand how living things work has of equity or social justice – though it is always interested me, as well as how these certainly that. It is also a matter of necessity microbes interact with us.” She fell in love for the survival of our species and the health with this area of research in her second year, of our planet. specifically bacterial pathogenesis, which is Without our differences to make how a bacteria causes disease in humans. the world vibrant and diverse, there would Emily is currently planning on pursuing a be nothing to study, no problems to solve, career in microbiology and is extremely and no future to hope for. Our world is excited to have the opportunity to make a perpetually changing, and within it, our difference in how deadly diseases are treated knowledge and technology is, too. clinically through understanding their causes. Therefore, diversity fuels the future and When asked the same question, sustainability of STEM. Emily Harasin explains why she is so passionate about her major, chemistry, Under The Microscope

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A CONVERSATION WITH DR. VICTORIA GEANEY

BIO LUM INE SCE NCE

WRITTEN BY RILEY BROWN PHOTOS BY KATHERINE BUNSEY DESIGNED BY JULIA GREENWOOD

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r.Victoria Geaney is a fashion-led researcher who works to combine biology and fashion with a feminist spin. She completed her P.h.D. at the Royal College of Art and works with living and vital materials. She’s previously worked with Cambridge University, Surrey University and Imperial College further exploring bacteria and synthetic biology to understand how our relationship as humans is tied to microorganisms in terms of living materials and fashion.

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Q: What initially drew you to the world o not only science, but combining it with the material world of fashion?

A: I studied fashion initially, but I was always

really interested in more intersections of fashion and research. After my B.A. I did some internships around working with scientists and technologists. I was interning at Studio XO and they were doing all these incredible, really interactive, textile kind of wearables. But really what was interesting to me was this sort of intersectionality between the different disciplines, so that’s really inspiring. Technology science engineering is a kind of STEM subject in conjunction with materiality and fashion and garment and body. I had an opportunity to work with Imperial on a project and a catwalk show. So, I produced a couple of pieces using some self-cleaning fabric, which was exciting.

But yeah, I was really thinking about how synthetic biology and the design of materials at a genetic level, whether that was possible, how some of that technology could interface with fashion and fashion research and what the processes and what the potential was for biomaterials, also the ethical aspects and the kind of production of this biological wearable technology, what it meant, how I could use different bacteria and different kinds of methods from microbiology and how that could really interface and how fashion and science can collaborate is basically where I ended.

Q: How do you think the future of fashion is going to impact the world of science, especially from an environmental standpoint?

A: My P.h.D wasn’t necessarily cen-

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tered on sustainability, it was more about understanding initially how fashion and science could collaborate. I was more interested in how the collaborations, or the assemblages operated in and of themselves. The living light dress was produced using a type of naturally glowing photobacterium in Kushitani, and they soon came to realize that a lot of

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the decisions we were making were really around whatever would be best for the bacteria. So for example, which materials were we using? What was the structure going to look like? How was the design going to be?

But there was a reciprocity between myself and the growing living system I was working with and the material as well as with my human collaborators. And so thinking about how that impacts from an environmental standpoint is for me more about the philosophy and the thinking behind it is how can we shift from thinking about everything in a purely human-centered way. We’d have to really care for these items, like a plant or like a child, feed them and nurture them, and look after them. Those are the considerations that we really need to be taking forward if we are to move towards a more environmental standpoint. I think it can really help to consider those plural perspectives and different disciplines, and I think the importance of collaborative practices across science, design, art, STEM subjects is really key to sort of embedding these new forms of both an environmental from a kind of material viewpoint, but also from a theoretical or a lens that we’re looking at these pieces as well.

Q: What’s an upcoming project goal of yours that you haven’t tried, but have been wanting to experiment with?

A: DNA origami, just the

I’m also working with another researcher, and so, together we are working on a project that is asking how we can turn, basically, climate change data, so data on toxicity levels of algae and algal blooms in different global locations, and how can we translate that data through performance, through dance. So, in that way, bringing to life and to kind of feeling and emotional kind of responses to climate data, to bring the sort of issues around climate emergency to a much larger audience. So, we’ll be working with the piece that will be a wearable piece that will have impulses coming from the data set that we will compute, digitize and send through from different locations of the different artists working on the project. And yeah, producing this piece, that I will hopefully translate these through also the garments, we might be able to use the dancer then to dance the global data from the set location, we may be able to turn that dance, those moves, somehow print something that is kind of almost the sort of physicalized version of the dance that would be maybe 3D printed back into the algal material.

I think you should know that you bring value and we should approach things with a feminist lens and a feminist attitude, which I think is key, especially when considering aspects such as ecosystem and Q: Any advice for environmental impact. I upcoming women STEM or women really think that, in fact, inlooking to explore the fashion industry? women are very pivotal in A: Go for it.Yeah. I think kind of key. I think that sort of knowledge and that’s we’re worried about things, or sometimes we can be that space. humble or nervous or not that we deserve -Dr. Victoria Geaney feeling a place around the table.

sound of it sounds really exciting so I’d really like to look at that. But yeah, more tangibly I’m working with some other artists and designers, and we are collectively producing pieces that are based around algae. So, using algae as a biomaterial like algal leather, but also possibly bioluminescent or fluorescent proteins that will be inserted into beads or sequins that are made of algae by one of the collaborators. So, looking at the protein shape of GFP to inform the design and possibly thinking around a form of jellyfish that is originally the proteins extracted from the Ikoria Victoria jellyfish, which I like the sound of. So, I’m quite interested in this sort of flowing idea at the bottom and maybe this kind of structure at the top.

I think you should know that you bring value and we should approach things with a feminist lens and a feminist attitude, which I think is key, especially when considering aspects such as ecosystem and environmental impact. I really think that, in fact, women are very pivotal in that sort of knowledge and that space.

I think we bring important voices that need to be leaned into and listened into, and vital voices, so I think that my advice would be yes, to go for it and know that you bring incredible value and incredible knowledge, and an important voice in those spaces and that needs to be listened into and leaned into urgently, particularly at this time of climate crisis and climate emergency.

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Biohacking

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Your Life:

Navigating Social Media Health Trends WRITTEN BY GRACIE STENGEL PHOTOS BY PRINCE AMOA-MENSA DESIGNED BY DYLAN REED

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Drink apple cider vinegar in the morning.

Fast for 12 hours at a time. Lift heavy weights with fewer reps. Take your vitamins. Oil Pull. Don’t eat processed foods. Do Pilates. Drink a gallon of water a day. Do the 75 Hard Challenge.

Track your calories. Meditate once daily. Walk 10,000 steps.

Each item in the list above is a health tip or trick recommended on TikTok. Some of these have improved people’s lives, while some are more harmful than they are helpful. As one of the most unreliable sources of information, social media is at the fingertips of nearly all Americans. Influencers post sponsored ads for supplements or share their workout routine with no scientific information to prove that they are safe or effective.

This DIY process of getting healthy is known as “biohacking”. On a small scale, this could mean starting a diet. On a larger scale, some will implant microchips into their bodies or use devices to alter their brainwaves to ensure better sleep. One of the most popular diets is the ketogenic diet, also known as keto. The keto diet is a low-carb, high-fat diet that forces the body to burn fat rather than carbs. This diet was originally designed to treat children with extreme epilepsy.

When beginning this diet and entering a ketosis state most people experience a phenomenon known as the “keto-flu”. Symptoms of this are body and muscle aches, insomnia, stomach pains, and headaches that can last up to a week. This diet has helped people lose and maintain weight loss for years but the side effects aren’t worth it for everyone.

The 75 Hard Challenge is another health trend that has taken over social media in the past few years. Included in this challenge is to follow a nutritional plan of the participants choosing without any cheat meals, no alcohol, two 45-minute workouts a day (one must be outside), drink one gallon of water a day, read 10 pages of a self-improvement book, and take progress pictures every day. All of this must be completed every day for 75 days straight to complete the challenge. Endorsers of the challenge claim it teaches discipline, endurance, as well as mental and physical strength. However, this challenge is a bad idea for many people. The water requirement is unrealistic for some and could leave them feeling sick. Those who struggle with disordered eating should not participate in the diet aspect. The strenuous workout regimen has caused injuries from extreme workouts without rest.

Another buzzword flooding the internet right now is Ozempic. Ozempic is a once-weekly injection of a medication known as semaglutide. It is used to help lower blood sugar, along with diet and exercise, for people who are diagnosed

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But the real message we should focus on is what is right for us.

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with type 2 diabetes.

This works by mimicking a GLP-1 hormone causing the body to produce more insulin, which then lowers blood sugar.

This hormone creates the effect that the person is full, causing them to not eat as much, in turn losing weight over time. The main ingredient, semaglutide, is also used for long-term weight management in the form of other medications known as Wegovy. Ozempic is not approved by the FDA to be used for weight loss.

So why is it trendy to use Ozempic? Many people struggle with their body image and the internet feeds into this. When they scroll through TikTok, they see videos of those who swear by Ozempic claiming they’ve lost 20 pounds in a month without working out or changing their eating habits. It sounds like an easy, magical solution. Celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Kim Kardashian have been rapidly slimming down and the rumor is that it’s because of this medication. As people look up to them and see these testimonials it reinforces the idea that they need to change their bodies, and if they follow the trend, they can.

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The skincare industry isn’t absolved from the world of trends either. Red light therapy and retinol are taking the internet by storm. Red light therapy is a common treatment used by dermatologists in their offices. This treatment utilizes low-wavelength red light to improve redness and scarring, and reduce wrinkles. Red light therapy was originally tested

by NASA to grow plants in space, but they began to use it to healwounds on astronauts. Influencers have begun promoting at-home versions of this in the form of red-light masks or wands. There has been no evidence to prove this is anything but safe and effective, but it is still very new, and the longterm effects haven’t yet been discovered.

Retinol has taken the cake for one of the most popular skincare trends in 2024.

Retinol clears clogged pores, increases skin cell production, and exfoliates the skin. This is good for anti-aging purposes as well as acne prevention. As a strong active ingredient, using this as recommended is important. Many people try to start by using it daily and without proper moisturizing and sun protection causing irritation and dryness. The recommended age to begin using it for anti-aging purposes is mid-to-late twenties. Retinol use has become controversial as people as young as 13 have begun using it. Although this has raised questions among TikTok users, doctors and researchers have confirmed that it is safe and effective for use by teenagers and adults.

The debate about the true effects of social media within the health and wellness world will never end. But the real message we should focus on is what is right for us.

Everyone has a different body, brain, lifestyle and priorities. Research and professional opinions are out there for a reason and should be taken advantage of. In this oh-so-digital age, it is easy to become overwhelmed being told the best ways to take care of your body. The beautiful thing about it being yours is what you choose to do with it.

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FASHION AS A FOOD CHAIN WRITTEN BY RILEY CLARK PHOTOS BY MEG REES DESIGNED BY MIMI CALHOUN

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T

he underlying connection between nature and culture is sinking or swimming: drip or drown. Group cohesion is a social process that categorizes groups whose members bond over similarities to feel whole.

Out in the wilderness, animals have adapted into cohesion to better suit their environment. Certain fish dangle a lighted lure before their mouths to entice prey, while some squid spray bioluminescent liquid, rather than ink, to bemuse their predators.

Humans adapt to overcome, too. In the fashion world, a complicated social realm, people mold themselves according to the world around them. Social psychology demonstrates why groups choose to play it safe, camouflaged into their surroundings, while other groups choose to suit unique plumage.

The resurrection and repeat offense of certain fashions being trendy proves the practicality of some fashion. There is a constant debate between low-rise and high-rise jeans, both resurfacing from decades of the past. However, jeans are jeans; they are practical

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and can flatter different people in preferred ways.

Group cohesion is the working toward a common goal and once individuals progress toward the goal, regression begins. And the trend cycle grabs a hold of styles like denim varieties.

Trend prediction content is common on the internet, it will always be an inherent part of culture, careers can even be made of it. Following trends in popular culture is not an inherently bad thing. People may fall into trends to feel comfortable within a certain social group, which gives some a sense of unity within that group of similar people. Another reason people may feel impelled to follow trends is because it works as a mental shortcut. By following what others are doing, it eases the fashion process; some people simply do not have an inclination toward fashion. At the hands of more outwardly dressing people, there is a criticism of the “Lululemon girl” branding or of members of Greek life, saying they are a copy-andpaste variant of each other. But, the true intentions of these fashion choices are a plethora of social and psychological reasons. With that, a number of

“the true intentions of these fashion choices are a plethora of social and psychological reasons.

fashion styles hold stereotypes and receive criticism when people are simply trying to dress. However, there are people that will constantly buy into the mainstream cycle in order to play it safe. The fashion industry furthers these negative feelings, lowering esteem by boosting jealousy. In turn, making people feel like they must keep up with trends and continue buying.

Evidently, to keep up with trend cycles in an affordable manner, people participate in the fast-fashion industry.

According to NPR, fast-fashion company Shein releases up to 10,000 new items daily.

Or on the other hand, a flex of wealth like when TikTok picked up the ‘Lululemon girl’ phenomenon. Consumers of the athleisure brand would flip through their plethora of Lululemon clothing tags, sometimes even in binder sleeves similar to collecting Pokémon cards.

Either as a form of self-expression or group cohesion, it seems that some queer people choose to dress in a way that challenges gender norms. Outwardly queer people tend to shy away from the more typical fashions of a straightforward world. This can be seen, for example, in the transgender community with the experimentation of androgynous clothing, body modifications, or eclectic accessories. Perhaps, though, dressing in non-conforming ways can be a way to seek refuge with similar people in an environment where fluid sexuality and identity are not the norms. Camouflage, or its more fun name, cryptic coloration, is a defense mechanism many animals use to blend in with their surroundings. In a figurative sense, people camouflage in a society that marginalizes. Multidisciplinary writer, Otamere Guobadia, feels that queer fashion offered them an “armor” portrayed as an embodiment of their “confidence and brightness.”

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distraction. Dispersed from southern Canada all the way down into Mexico is a breed of moth who yields two eyelike circles on its hind wings to deter predators from attacking the head. The polyphemus moth and its silky, predator averting wings reflect a bilateral. People not dressing entirely with liberation could be putting on a front. Whether that be styling according to a trend, masking with exuberance or going under the radar with nonchalance.

That begs the question: does anyone truly feel comfort in their personal identity and expression?

Surely male mallard ducks do, as well as cardinals and peacocks. There is a sexual dimorphism in many bird species. Among other traits, the striking difference in plumage between male and female birds is most visibly prominent. The male birds’ flashy colors attract their female counterparts during mating rituals: the brighter the plumage, the better their chances. In the case of humans, it is rare that a man dresses to outshine another

“

fashion is an outlet of expression.” man. For the dimorphism of humans there is an extent in recognition of the cisgendered physical body, men and women from birth differ in body build. It is possible some men rely on the dimorphism of our ancestors to defeat other males in competition for their mates. This being looking “manly” to attract a mate, not feeding into plumage, considering the sexual selection hypothesis says the more masculine acquired more mates.

For many, though, fashion is an outlet of expression. Boastfully, like the males in a dimorphic relationship, plenty of people prefer to wear the clothes they do and to be seen for it.

There is a thrill felt when someone compliments your outfit -- a “real recognizes real” element. Many feel inspired by fashion, they gather on Pinterest and curate outfits to make themselves feel like themselves.

Sometimes these fashion-forward thinkers are the same people calling trends before they are mainstreamed by those in the limelight.

No matter the style, though, predators will always be on the hunt. But in this food chain of a social world, maybe it is best to follow instinctual feelings, dressing in whatever manner feels right.

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WRITTEN BY MALLORY MENZ DESIGNED BY DYLAN REED Throughout modern medical history, there have been many violations of ethical standards in the name of medical advancement. These ethical violations have disproportionately affected people of color.

The Tuskegee Experiment stands as a stark reminder of these violations of ethical standards and the enduring legacy of health disparities in marginalized communities. Lasting from 1932 to 1972, this infamous study conducted by the United States Public Health Service (USPHS) targeted African American men in Macon County, Alabama. It was designed to study the natural progression of untreated syphilis, but its true nature was a grave betrayal of trust and a perpetuation of racial injustices.

The Tuskegee Experiment exploited the vulnerability of impoverished African American men, many of whom had limited access to healthcare.

They were promised free medical exams, meals and burial insurance in exchange for their participation.

However, what they received was far from benevolent. The men were deliberately deceived about the purpose of the study and were denied proper treatment even after penicillin became widely available as a cure for syphilis in the 1940s.

The devastating consequences included needless suffering, deaths and the transmission of the disease to unsuspecting partners and offspring.

This egregious episode underscores the longstanding disparities in health and healthcare experienced by African Americans and other marginalized communities in the United States.

Historical injustices like the Tuskegee Experiment have contributed to deep-seated mistrust of the medical establishment among minority populations, leading to reluctance to seek healthcare and participate in medical research. This mistrust is not unfounded, as evidenced by ongoing disparities in access to quality healthcare, diagnosis and treatment.

Today, African Americans continue to face disproportionate rates of chronic illnesses such as diabetes, hypertension and certain types of cancer.

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They are also more likely to experience higher mortality rates from these conditions compared to their white counterparts. These disparities are multifaceted, stemming from socioeconomic factors, systemic racism and unequal access to healthcare resources. Structural inequities in education, employment, housing and environmental factors contribute to the complex web of health disparities that persist in communities of color.

Implicit biases and discrimination within the healthcare system can manifest in differential treatment, diagnostic delays and inadequate pain management for minority patients. Studies have shown that African American patients are less likely to receive recommended treatments and are more likely to face barriers to accessing specialized care.

These disparities result in tangible consequences, including poorer health outcomes and diminished life expectancy.

Addressing health disparities requires a multifaceted approach that acknowledges historical injustices, dismantles systemic barriers and prioritizes equitable access to healthcare for all.

This necessitates investing in culturally competent care, increasing diversity in the healthcare workforce, and implementing policies that promote health equity. Community engagement and empowerment are also essential in building trust and fostering partnerships between healthcare providers and marginalized populations.

The legacy of the Tuskegee Experiment serves as a sobering reminder of the profound harm that can arise from neglecting the principles of medical ethics and perpetuating disparities in healthcare. It underscores the urgent need for systemic reforms and collective action to ensure that all individuals have the opportunity to attain the highest standard of health and well-being, regardless of race, ethnicity or socioeconomic status. Only through concerted efforts to address the root causes of health disparities can we aspire to create a more just and equitable healthcare system for future generations.

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FAREWELL 64

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Joining VARIANT was one of the best decisions I made during my college experience. After not joining right away because I didn’t feel “cool” enough, I took a shot and applied to join the executive board. VARIANT was something entirely different than what I had experienced in other campus publications - it felt safe, welcoming, and inspirational. I could be my best self while helping others be their best selves. All of my creative ideas were considered with seriousness that made me feel heard and collaborating with these people has been a joy. This year, as Editor-in-Chief, I got to see the people in this organization flourish even more and have never been prouder. I will miss everyone here greatly and I can’t wait to see what you all do in the future.

Emma Friend Editor-in-Chief VARIANT has always felt like home to me; it’s so bizarre that I’m about to leave the organization forever!

This past year, during which I served as the magazine’s creative director, I have felt so supported by the extreme talent of the creative team. Every idea I have conceptualized,VARIANT has executed in a way that’s exceeded my vision. I am truly saddened to let the amazing resources of all these creative minds go!

Over the past three years,VARIANT has brought me so much, and I am so excited to see what both my future and the future of VARIANT hold. A special thank you to my art director, Jack Wilburn, who helped turn my unexplainable ideas into these past two issues.

Madeline Melragon Creative Director

I first joined VARIANT on a whim. My friend, who took photos for the magazine, asked me to come and, ambivalent to the idea, I went (see her goodbye to the left, if you can believe that). As someone majoring in English and Sociology, a fashion magazine didn’t seem like the most logical use of my time. And yet, the energy in the room during the first meeting seemed almost palpable. I could practically feel the buzz of creative passion, and I knew I needed to be a part of it. Now, after having served as a writer, editor, and head of VARIANT, I can say with almost embarrassing sincerity that my college experience would not have been the same without this magazine and organization. I’ve had the opportunity to hone my skills and to step outside my comfort zone. I’ve worked with some of the most talented individuals to create work of which I am so genuinely proud. I’ll miss them dearly and cherish them always.VARIANT, I love you!

Emma Bhatt Associate Editor

LOVE, VRNT.