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20 WINTER 2010 / 2011

AROUND THE WORLD AND BACK AGAIN SCANDINAVIAN FASHION SPECIAL

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VMAN 20 Editor-in-Chief/Creative Director STEPHEN GAN

Editors DEREK BLASBERG ELLIOTT DAVID

Associate Editor

Visionaire

Advertising Directors

CHRISTOPHER BARTLEY

CECILIA DEAN JAMES KALIARDOS

JORGE GARCIA jgarcia@visionaireworld.com GIORGIO PACE gpace@visionaireworld.com

Managing Editor EMMA REEVES

Production Director MELISSA SCRAGG

Photo Editor EVELIEN JOOS

Advertising Manager DAVID RENARD

FRANCINE WONG fwong@visionaireworld.com

Distribution

Bookings Editor NATALIE HAZZOUT

Online Editor

Advertising Coordinator

YALE BRESLIN

Executive Assistant/ Special Projects Editor

VICKY BENITES vbenites@visionaireworld.com

Online Manager

646.747.4545

STEVEN CHAIKEN

RYAN DYE

Senior Fashion Editor

Assistant Editor

JAY MASSACRET

MARTHA GLASS

Fashion and Market Editors

Copy Editors

Online Advertising YALE BRESLIN yale@vmagazine.com

646.452.6021

YUKI JAMES CATHERINE NEWELL-HANSON

TRACI PARKS JEREMY PRICE

Financial Comptroller

Contributing Editor/ Scandinavia

Assistant Comptroller

Contributing Fashion Editors

THOMAS HARGREAVE

JOE McKENNA NICOLA FORMICHETTI OLIVIER RIZZO BEAT BOLLIGER CLARE RICHARDSON

Contributing Editor/ Entertainment GREG KRELENSTEIN STARWORKS

DANICA LO

PANOS YIAPANIS

Art Editor Fashion Assistant

SIMON CASTETS

NIKKI IGOL

Special Projects Consulting Creative/ Design Direction GREG FOLEY

KYRA GRIFFIN DOMINIC SIDHU JAVIER BONE-CARBONE STEPHEN SMITH

Art Director SANDRA KANG

Communications STARWORKS

Senior Designer Creative Imaging Consultant

Design

PASCAL DANGIN

CIAN BROWNE JAKOB HEDBERG MARYELLEN McGOLDRICK

SUIT, SHIRT, SUNGLASSES PRADA S/S 2011

16 VMAN

ANNIE HINSHAW

Thanks to STEVEN BINDER INTERNS

Chantal Adair Frances Cha John Ciamillo Jayme Cyk Viktoria Ejenas Christian Escobar Romina Fernandez Katelyn Gray Amber Harris Marina Heintze Samantha Heydt Eunsan Huh Will Iron Hayley Koustis Ali Madigan Molly Mamourian Timothy Maxwell David McGovern Silvia Velencoso Segura Gillian Tozer Larissa Whitney Karen Wisdom

PHOTOGRAPHY SEIJI FUJIMORI STYLING YUKI JAMES

STEPHANIE CHAO

DAISUKE TOKYO, JAPAN

FARZANA KHAN

Administrative Assistant

Contributing Style Editor Fashion Editor-at-Large

SOORAYA PARIAG


VMAN 20 CONTRIBUTORS

Mario Testino Hedi Slimane Gus Van Sant Collier Schorr David Armstrong Terry Richardson Christian Brylle Andrew Richardson George Cortina Paul Rowland Matias Faldbakken Alastair McKimm Jason Farrer Simon Foxton Brian Molloy Mark Abrahams Koichiro Doi Shun Watanabe Klaus Thymann Dan Forbes Lester Garcia Nick Burd Patrik Sandberg John Norris T. Cole Rachel Seiji Fujimori Nagi Sakai Tom Van Dorpe Paul Maffi Magnus Unnar Max Snow Catherine Servel Cameron Krone James Worthington-Demolet Dom Smith Dallas Winston Victor Axwell Tommy Melder Murphy Carmichael Blake Staub Shirine Saad Jared Flint Xevi Muntané Victoria Tang Alberto Murtra Stinger Wong Misha Taylor Chrisna de Bruyn Bo Egerstrom Wiktor Hansson Krzystoff Herholdt Bjarne Lingren Vicente de Paulo Felipe Veloso William Richards Dexter Huxtable Justin Ridler Tyler Rockit Ross Garret Gabrielle de Gersigny SPECIAL THANKS

Art Partner Giovanni Testino Amber Olsen Candice Marks Jemima Hobson Neil Cooper Lindsey Steinberg Sally Borno Kona Mori John Gayner Lucy Birkhead Neilly Rosenblum Liz McKiver Kim Pollock Yann Rzepka Kelly Penford Bridget Harris Jen Brill Megan Tully Tal Ben-Oni CLM Cale Harrison Francesco Savi Anna Suznjevic Matthew Mitchell Anis Khalil Jasmine Kharbanda George Miscamble Jennifer Ramey Kyle Hagler Ford NY Paul Rowland Sam Doerfl er Satoko Sato Marco Maida Matteo Agrillo Sune Palner Negeva Norval Peter Damgaard Fabio Bechepeche Sebnem Celepoglu Dweight Peters Pru Graham Anna Helin Sergio Mattos Sandbox Studios Phil Caraway Canoe Studios Jack Studios Root DRIVEIN24 Trec Kip McQueen Morgan Anderson Aldana Oppizzi Pier 59 Studios Thompson Hotels The Standard, New York Yael Choukroun Alexis Page Scott Meriam Geordon Nicol Drew Brown Kylie Case Gilles Mendel Jade Lau Sean Donnola Angelo Bianchi ON THE COVER STEPHEN DORFF WEARS JACKET BURBERRY PRORSUM F/W 2010 JEANS HUGO BOSS ORANGE F/W 2010 BRIEFS ARMANI EXCHANGE CUFF GEORG JENSEN PHOTOGRAPHY MARIO TESTINO STYLING ANDREW RICHARDSON HAIR ROQUE FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE (TRACEYMATTINGLY.COM) PHOTO ASSISTANTS IVAN SHAW AND BEN BONNET STYLIST ASSISTANT CONNIE BERG PRODUCTION ERICK JUSSEN (GE PROJECTS) AND JEMIMA HOBSON (ART PARTNER) PRODUCTION ASSISTANT KATIE BROWN EQUIPMENT RENTAL SMASHBOX LOCATIONS, LOS ANGELES LOCATION CHATEAU MARMONT, LOS ANGELES RETOUCHING R&D

OPENING PAGES PHOTOGRAPHY SEIJI FUJIMORI STYLING YUKI JAMES HAIR BEN SKERVIN (THEMAGNETAGENCY.COM) GROOMING STEVIE HUYNH (THE WALL GROUP) MODELS THIAGO SANTOS, DAISUKE UEDA (NY MODELS), DOMINIQUE HOLLINGTON, STAS SVETLICHNYY (DNA MODELS), OMAHYRA MOTA (MUSE NYC), ED MARQUEZINI (FORD NY) PHOTO ASSISTANT FUMIHIKO SUGINO STYLIST ASSISTANT KATELYN GRAY RETOUCHING MIZUE WATANABE LOCATION SANDBOX STUDIOS, NEW YORK

STAS ZHELEVNOGORSK, SIBERIA

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ava i l a b l e at f i n e d e pa r t m e n t s t o r e s a n d m a r c j a c o b s b o u t i q u e s


CONTENTS COVER STORY 64 STEPHEN DORFF Hollywood’s one-time token bad boy is reborn a leading man: witness the second coming of Stephen Dorff PROFILES 25 SEBASTIAN STAN The up-and-coming actor on his transition from communist to Comic-Con 26 DANILO GALLINARI The Italian import may be the Knicks’s star forward, but even ballers still miss their moms 28 WISSAM AL MANA The man who brought luxury fashion to the Middle East has an international pedigree and a pop star girlfriend to match

48 INTERNATIONAL PLAYERS’ ANTHEM The hardest working men in hip hop show off their hustle and fl ow 53 NEWS Dan Colen’s designer jacket, Keith Haring’s condoms, Naomi Campbell’s Dolce & Gabbana tour, and more of what’s coming up worldwide 58 EAU SO EXOTIC Aromas from every corner of the earth 60 THE SPIRIT WORLD Fifteen different ways to drink to your fellow man 146 MODEL CITIZENS Our international agencies roundup features some of the best faces the world has to offer FASHION

32 WHERE WERE YOU? The fi rst round of photos in our VMen-onvacation scrapbook 34 MAGNUS CARLSEN The world champion chess player makes an unexpected move 36 TAKERU KOBAYASHI The notorious hot dog-eating champion spills his guts about stuffi ng his face 38 SHAOLIN SECRET Pyrotechnics artist Cai Guo-Qiang reveals his kung fu past 40 SURF TIME Laird Hamilton makes waves—and shares his favorite spots for surfi ng them

96 DOUBLE VISION BY HEDI SLIMANE AND COLLIER SCHORR 106 MICHAEL PITT BY GUS VAN SANT 112 PATTI + ROBERT BY CHRISTIAN BRYLLE 122 TOKYO TRIBE BY KOICHIRO DOI 128 BOROUGH BOYS BY DAVID ARMSTRONG 134 THE TALES OF GENGHIS KHAN BY PAUL ROWLAND 142 GREENLAND EMPIRE BY KLAUS THYMANN

44 SING THE WORLD ELECTRIC Three gorgeous voices from around the globe

THIAGO SAO PAULO, BRAZIL

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20 VMAN

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42 POP ROCKS Punk icon Iggy Pop talks fashion with designer John Varvatos

72 CANDICE DOES COPENHAGEN BY MARIO TESTINO


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WELCOME TO THE ISSUE...

VMAN’S CO-EDITORS CONVERSE FROM OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE ATLANTIC ABOUT LIFE INTERNATIONAL ELLIOTT DAVID Bonjour, Derek. How’s Paris? DEREK BLASBERG It’s cold and rainy and it’s wonderful.

How appropriate is it that we’re on different continents as we polish up our fi rst-ever International issue? ELLIOTT A little too perfect, though I do wish I were on the Moroccan coast or evading tax laws in international waters somewhere, rather than back in good ol’ Gotham. You’re quite the international man, much like our Where Were You contributors (page 32). DEREK I think trying to be everywhere all the time is extremely modern! Now I know why people say, “It’s a small world after all.” ELLIOTT It certainly feels like it here in New York, where a small group of provocateurs can constitute entire international art movements. Look at Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe and their impact on the art and music climates in the late ’60s and early ’70s. I love how Christian Brylle and Freja Beha Erichsen recreated that relationship for us in this issue (page 112). But then you have Iggy Pop and John Varvatos, who interviewed each other (page 42): both are international names, both from Detroit, so you’d think they would have crossed paths by now, and yet they only got together recently for the designer’s campaign. What are some of your favorite exotic locales? DEREK I like to think that I’d go anywhere once. I grew up in Missouri, which was exotic in its own way—sort of reminds me of Gus Van Sant’s pictures of Michael Pitt (page 106) —and as a boy I always dreamed of seeing all four corners of the world. That’s why I’m so happy we managed in this issue to capture so many cultures, and in such a fantastically visual way—like Koichiro Doi’s Tokyo story (page 122), Paul Rowland’s story based on Genghis Khan, and the Americana captured by artists Hedi Slimane and Collier Schorr (page 96). Don’t even get me started on Mario Testino’s Copenhagen extravaganza (page 72). I spent a hazy weekend in the Danish capital about ten years ago, but after seeing Mario’s pictures I’m going to have to go back. ELLIOTT Candice Swanepoel is outrageously sexy in Mario’s story. She’s an unreal creature. As for the Southern roots, I’m from Texas, so I can certainly relate. But most of my travels in exotic locations haven’t been so leisurely: I spent a few weeks stuck in the Amazon jungle, and I once had to be smuggled out of a Third World country—but that’s a story for another issue. I’m certainly jealous of the Chanel-clad Laird Hamilton, who shared with us the world’s best beaches (page 40). But I reckon no matter how many cities you’ve been to, there are always so many more to go. DEREK It’s true. After I come home from a trip—whether it’s this one in Paris for the women’s collections or to London for the Frieze Art Fair, which is on the agenda for next week—I will be exhausted for a day. Then all I want to do is unpack, do my laundry, repack, and head back to the airport. ELLIOTT That’s the spirit of this issue: if the world’s our oyster (to use another aphorism), then perhaps here’s its pearl. I feel like we’re giving our readers a pretty comprehensive vicarious international experience, don’t you? DEREK I sure do. Happy reading, and bon voyage!

VMAN 23


PROFILES R SEBASTIAN STAN HIS EDUCATION IN POP CULTURE MAY COME SOLELY FROM HIS PARTICIPATION IN IT, BUT WITH UPCOMING ROLES IN HIGH-PROFILE FLICKS, HE’S ABOUT TO SCHOOL US ALL

GROOMING LOSI (THE WALL GROUP) PHOTO ASSISTANTS ALANNA GABIN, NICK SETHI, NIKKI TAPPA LIGHTING TECHNICIAN SETH GOLDFARB DIGITAL TECHNICIAN GLEN FABIAN RETOUCHING BRIAN ZIEGLER

Most young Hollywood actors who land a role in a megahyped movie based on an iconic comic book might not merely relish the near-guaranteed meal ticket, but savor the childhood superhero fantasy come true. For 27-yearold Sebastian Stan, however, landing the role of James Bucky Barnes in the bound-to-be-huge Captain America: The First Avenger was more akin to getting a history lesson. “I didn’t really grow up on comic books. I don’t think there were many around in communist Romania when I was a kid,” he laughs. “I had a lot of catch-up reading to do when this part came along. I’m trying to be true to [the comic] and learn as much about the history as I can.” Stan might not have known much about American pop culture as a child, but he’s quickly becoming a

part of it. Having scored big roles on TV shows like Gossip Girl and the short-lived Kings—as well as some high-profi le theater gigs in NYC—it wasn’t long before fi lm came calling. This winter, Stan heats up opposite Natalie Portman in Darren Aronofsky’s exquisite Black Swan, and next fall he chases ghosts alongside Ashley Greene in The Apparition. Despite his star quickly rising in Hollywood, Stan remains committed to a life of low-key normalcy. “I’m in New York most of the time, so I don’t really feel like I have a very Hollywood-esque life,” he explains. “I think it’s a lot of fun to be able to just walk down the street with my dog without anyone paying attention. I get to live in my own private little world here in the city. I hope to keep it that way.” T. COLE RACHEL SEBASTIAN STAN IN NEW YORK CITY, JUNE 2010 PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY RICHARDSON STYLING LESTER GARCIA SWEATER OSKLEN F/W 2010 JEANS KSUBI

VMAN 25


VMen

The New York kNicks fouNd a sTar forward iN iTalY, aNd we fiNd ouT he’s someThiNg To crow abouT

Here’s a little Italian lesson for you, courtesy of New York

Knicks forward Danilo Gallinari: the word for rooster in Italian is gallo. The basketball player is extremely familiar with the term because it’s been his nickname since he first began playing ball as a toddler in his hometown of Graffignana. It was his father’s nickname too, when the elder Gallinari was a star basketball player for the Italian national team. Gallinari, who moved to New York after the 2008 NBa draft—he was the sixth pick overall—continues 26 VMan

his Italian lesson: “In Italy, a rooster is a very powerful animal. It is a sign of respect to be referred to as

a rooster, which I don’t think is the [case] here.” But regardless of his nickname or the animal to which it corresponds, to see Gallinari on the basketball court is to see a man who knows how to rule the roost. He is equal parts agile and aggressive, known for both his tough defense and his quick hands. Gallinari went pro in 2004, at the ripe old age of 15, playing for the Italian team Casalpusterlengo. Four years later he moved to New York to officially become a Knick. “This was my first choice,” he says, adding that of the four organizations that approached his management team when he was a free agent, New York was the

one he told them to push for. Not that he doesn’t miss home—he says Graffignana is still his favorite place on earth—but he has methods for combating homesickness. “I’m lucky to have my mom come to New York a couple of times a year. She makes sure I have plenty of Italian food—she flies with it in her luggage and stocks up my apartment before she goes back.” Derek blasberG DaNIlo GallINarI IN New YorK CITY, auGuST 2010 photoGraphy Mark abrahaMs stylinG yuki jaMes T-SHIrT arMani exchanGe F/w 2010 FraGraNCe GiorGio arMani armaNI CoDe

GroomING moIz allaDINa For reDKeN (arT DeparTmeNT) pHoTo aSSISTaNTS JaSoN GeerING aND JoHN ruIz STYlIST aSSISTaNT KareN wISDom DIGITal TeCHNICIaN TIm Bell (SpeeDSTer DIGITal) STuDIo JaCK STuDIoS prINTING Box

Danilo Gallinari


AT S EL IM A O P T IQ U E - S O H O N Y - 5 9 W O OS T ER S T R EE T


Vmen

The Middle easTern reTail scion spliTs his TiMe beTween QaTar, london, los angeles, and wherever his pop icon girlfriend is perforMing

Wissam Al Mana, as he will tell you himself, has his

hands full. “I head the retail division [of the Qatar-based family empire, Al Mana Group]. I oversee new developments and I’m constantly working on interesting projects, one of them in design,” he says. “I’m also pursuing an art project, and I’m involved in several charities. All of that, plus a superstar girlfriend…it keeps me pretty busy.” Al Mana’s better half is a pop icon you’ve probably heard of—only the legendary performer Janet Jackson— but what Wissam is doing with the Al Mana Group far 28 Vman

outshines his current role as Jackson’s boyfriend. Born in Qatar, raised in Europe, educated in the United States, and currently spending his time between all three, Al Mana’s perspective on modern business is an impressive one. Just as the Far East was entering the luxury retail market, Al Mana pounced on fashion’s forces, introducing the territory to some of the industry’s most familiar brands. Starting in 2004, he opened two Saks Fifth Avenues, one in Dubai and the other in Bahrain, and ushered in such designers as Hermès, Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, Chloé, and Giorgio Armani. “Mr. Armani is down-to-earth, very kind, and someone I admire for creating one of the largest luxury brands in the world from scratch.” The Al Mana Group is big business: Wissam and his two brothers oversee a company that works with over

fifty companies in the Gulf region and has interests in real estate, automobile distribution, engineering, construction, retail, food services, and media. But it turns out Wissam’s girlfriend—“I don’t date Janet Jackson, she is my girlfriend; there is a difference,” he is quick to point out—is a source of inspiration for the fledgling mogul. “She is a very special and talented woman who never ceases to amaze me.” Derek BlasBerg WISSAM AL MANA IN BROOKLYN, SEPTEMBER 2010 PhotograPhy nagi sakai styling tom Van DorPe LEATHER BOMBER JACKET Z Zegna F/W 2010 HOODIE Balenciaga By nicolas ghesquière F/W 2010 TANK if 6 Was 9 BRACELET chrome hearts

GROOMING CHIHO OMAE (FRANK REPS) PHOTO ASSISTANT SO YOSHIMURA AND KAzUYA GOAN STYLIST ASSISTANT EMMANUEL SENAT PRODUCTION DE FACTO INC. CATERING THE CHEFS AGENCY

Wissam al mana


for VMAN


if fur is the new black, then kopenhagen Studio— kopenhagen Fur’s center for innovation and craftsmanship—is the reason. Since 2005, the danish fashion hub has been changing the shape of this traditionally onetrick medium by collaborating with designers from all corners of the creative world. The result is a challenge to material tradition. input from every level (from students and emerging talent, to iconic labels like louis Vuitton, gucci, and rick owens) has made fur as versatile as wool, as wearable as cotton, and as commonplace in streetwear as it is in high fashion. in this series, danish actress iben Hjejle, the new face of kopenhagen Fur’s luxe universe, helps set the scene. PhotograPhy Signe VilStruP Styling Bjørg FrelleSVig

for VMAN

Makeup Henrik Haue Hair Søren BacH TalenT iBen Hjejle (arT ManageMenT) ModelS jaSMin (eliTe) and julie ø (unique) prop STyling SpuTnick pHoTo aSSiSTanTS clauS roSen Bønnelycke and andreaS MorTenSen STyling aSSiSTanT Signe uSSing


VMEN

Mathias Lauridsen in Sydney

Tom Guinness and Rob Hawkins in Tuscany, Italy

David Gandy in Uganda

Frank Muytjens, J.Crew’s head of men’s design, near Mount Fuji, Japan

Dan May in Itchenor, U.K.

Diego Garcia off the coast of Maine

David de Rothschild and Lyle Maltz on the Colombian Coast

THE BEST CURE FOR BEATING THE WINTER BLUES? PACK A BAG AND HEAD SOMEWHERE EXOTIC, LIKE THESE VMEN Barbara Garcia and Vincent Lacrocq in New Zealand

Gore Vidal on the Bosphorus River in Istanbul

Douglas Friedman in White Sands, New Mexico

Waris Ahluwalia in front of a baby volcano in Iceland

Gian Luca Passi in the desert outside Dubai

Reed Woodson outside Glasgow, Scotland

Scott Harrison of charity: water in Tigray, Ethiopia Jamie Johnson on the Adriatic Sea

32 VMAN


VMEN

MAGNUS CARLSEN THE NUMBER ONE–RANKED NORWEGIAN CHESS CHAMPION CASTLES INTO FASHION AS THE FACE OF THE NEW G-STAR RAW CAMPAIGN

If you’re a true genius, there’s really no when about

MAGNUS CARLSEN IN NEW YORK CITY, AUGUST 2010 PHOTOGRAPHY PAUL MAFFI STYLING TOM VAN DORPE ALL CLOTHING G-STAR F/W 2010

34 VMAN

GROOMING LAURA DELEON (JOE MANAGAMENT) SET DESIGN SEBASTIAN VIKKELSOE-PEDERSEN PHOTO ASSISTANT MATTEO PRANDONI STYLIST ASSISTANT RIKA WATANABE PRODUCTION JASMINE KHARBANDA (COMMUNITY.NYC) STUDIO SANDBOX STUDIOS RETOUCHING JON HEMPSTEAD DIGITAL EQUIPMENT EXPOSURE CAPTURE

it—it’s not something that one day activates: you just always are. “I don’t remember,” says Magnus Carlsen of the day he fi rst held a chess piece. The 19-year-old Norweigan currently holds the top rank in the standings maintained by the esteemed authority Fédération Internationale des Échecs. “I think I was like fi ve-anda-half-years-old. It was probably at home—my father taught me—but I don’t remember what my fi rst reaction was.” At age 13, Carlsen was awarded Grandmaster status, making him the third youngest player in history to achieve the revered designation. Carlsen is known for his rogue, unexpected chess style, so it makes perfect sense that he made the unanticipated jump to, of all things, fashion. Carlsen stars as the face of the new G-Star Raw Fall/Winter 2010 campaign, alongside Liv Tyler. And while there’s a certain level of celebrity that of course comes with being the best chess player alive (and one of the greatest of all time), there’s an entirely different type of fame that comes with starring in a major international fashion campaign. “The fashion world is superfi cial,” he says in his deep, contemplative Nordic voice, using the term “superfi cial” in a considered way, to imply fashion is a visual and therefore more comprehensible medium, as compared to high-level chess, in which concepts and tactics are diffi cult to see, even in hindsight. “The chess world is a bit more of a closed world, because if you don’t understand what’s happening, it’s not that easy to enjoy it. But G-Star is trying to make it more accessible,” he says, which could certainly heighten Carlsen’s fame. “Being a celebrity is not really a role for me, but being recognized for what I do, whether it’s in fashion with G-Star or in chess, it’s something I appreciate.” Appreciation or not, Carlsen’s got his pieces aligned to capture the world’s attention. MURPHY CARMICHAEL


w w w.bjorg jeweller y.com


VMEN

THE WORLD-FAMOUS COMPETITIVE EATER EMBRACES THE ART OF WAR

It might have been Americans who turned gluttony into a public spectacle, but it was Japanese speed-eater Takeru Kobayashi who made competitive eating a soulful sport, more about man’s mental resolve and overcoming the limits of his physiology than about shoveling a bunch of shit into your face. The 32-year-old hyperfi t Kobayashi fi rst won the Nathan’s Coney Island hot dog-eating contest, in his rookie appearance in 2001, by scarfi ng fi fty hot dogs in twelve minutes, doubling the previous record. Since then, Kobayashi, who weighs a mere 125 lbs, has become an international face for the sport, setting bizarre world records left and right (e.g. 17.7 pounds of cow brains in fi fteen minutes). 36 VMAN

Kobayashi is an unlikely champion, a modern-day Steve Prefontaine, the famed long-distance runner and popularizer of that sport, who once credited his incredible records not to his being faster than his opponents, but to his capacity to endure more pain. “I’m the smallest of all the competitors, and that puts me at a severe disadvantage,” says Kobayashi. “But I think my high pain threshold exceeds my disability of being smaller.” Regardless of the competition, Kobayashi prepares by drinking water, typically working toward the ability to drink 3 gallons in one sitting. “It has nothing to do with eating food,” Kobayashi continues. “This is a sport. This is a competition. I train. I train with water. Only during the competition do I actually eat the food to excess.” “I’m not thinking much,” he says when asked what goes through his mind while he’s forcing food into

his body. “I’m in battle with the food in front of me. I don’t think beyond the rush of the moment.” But it’s not really a battle against the food. It’s more a war against limitation, against what our eyes tell us can’t be done. Kobayashi isn’t a paragon of public sin, but an international ambassador of the impossible. VICTOR AXWELL TAKERU KOBAYASHI IN NEW YORK CITY, SEPTEMBER 2010 PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY RICHARDSON STYLING YUKI JAMES VEST AND BELT BESS T-SHIRT CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION S/S 2011 JEANS TAKERU’S OWN BRACELETS AND RINGS (HIS RIGHT) CHROME HEARTS RING (HIS LEFT) DAVID YURMAN

HAIR FRED VANDEBUNT FOR REDKEN (ART DEPARTMENT) GROOMING BILLY B. (ART DEPARTMENT) PROP STYLIST ANDY HARMAN (THE WALL GROUP) PHOTO ASSISTANTS NICK SETHI AND NIKKI TAPPA STUDIO MANAGER SETH GOLDFARB DIGITAL TECHNICIAN GLEN FABIAN STYLIST ASSISTANT NIKKI IGOL RETOUCHING BRIAN ZIEGLER

TAKERU KOBAYASHI


FLASHBACK

Ignition of gunpowder drawing Odyssey by Cai Guo-Qiang

Guo-Qiang

in Real K

ung Fu of

Shaolin

Guo-Qiang’s

stuntwork in

78

a film from 19

Installation view of Odyssey, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, 2010

Kung Fu action

SHAOLIN SECRET CAI GUO-QIANG, PYROTECHNIC MASTER ARTIST, REVEALS A 30-YEAROLD KUNG FU SECRET Cai Guo-Qiang is arguably the world’s most lauded contemporary Chinese artist: his work, which consists of choreographed public explosions and massive gunpowder drawings, has earned him everything from the Venice Biennale’s coveted International Golden Lion Prize (1999) to the title of Director of Special Effects at the 2008 Beijing Olympics. That same year, the now 53-year38 VMAN

old was honored by New York City’s Guggenheim Museum with an expansive mid-career retrospective. Inconspicuously omitted from his CV, however, is GuoQiang’s little-known debut as a kung fu fi lm star. “In 1977, I was hired as a set designer for Ren wu ke ren, a Hong Kong martial arts fi lm being shot in China,” he reveals. “Halfway through [fi lming], one of the actors found another job and just stopped coming to work —and since my boxing teacher happened to be the fi lm’s fi ght choreographer, I was recommended for the role.” Ren wu ke ren, which translates to “Real Kung Fu of

Shaolin,” is that classic young-boy-avenges-his-father’sviolent-murder-with-newly-acquired-fi ghting-skills story.

It’s a Shaolin fi lm so obscure it might put Wu-Tang’s cinema library to shame. Why has Guo-Qiang kept this fun little fact concealed for over thirty years? “When the fi lm played at my university,” he says, “it was the worst and most embarrassing moment in my life.” Most everyone, no matter how successful, has made some early career fl ubs, so you’ve got to applaud those who get to the point where they can fi nally look back and laugh, no matter how long it’s taken. SIMON CASTETS


TRAVEl

mentawaii beacHeS in indoneSia “typical of this part of the world; beautiful water and beaches with no one around.”

margaret river in weStern auStraLia

Superman on a Surfboard Laird HamiLton traveLS tHe worLd in cHaSe of a good wave. now cHaneL keepS Him on time Laird Hamilton, surfing champion and all-around water superhuman, doesn’t need much by way of equipment

for a daily exercise session. In fact, a typical railroad tie will do. On a sunny afternoon this past summer in Malibu—the day before he hosted a party for Chanel’s new J12 Men’s watch—that’s precisely what he used for his cardio and strength training: lifting it over his head 40 VMAN

to work out the arms then hitching it to a thick rope tied around his waist and dragging it down the coast. And he made it look slightly too effortless. Doing hard things the easy way has always been the Hamilton way, and it’s given him a career in and out of the water. Since he was a toddler surfing with his father, Bill Hamilton, another pro surfer, his life has been one

daunting challenge after another. He has done stunts in

Bond movies, appeared on the covers of fitness magazines, broken surfing speed records around the world, appeared in documentaries on water sports, and even pioneered entirely new sports, most notably tow-in surfing, which is the extremely high-risk practice of utilizing a wave runner to whip a surfer into waves reaching over 100 feet.

PHOtO ASSIStAnt JAMeS StOne equIPMent rentAL treC

SURF TIME


laird’s FaVorite beaChes We asked the surf legend Where to find legendary Waves. here are hamilton’s best beaches from around the World

Paradise cove in malibu, ca “my summer playground and training ground.”

makena beach in maui “one of the best beaches on maui.”

lumihai in kauai “my favorite beach in the world; one of the most beautiful.”

avalon beach and Whale beach in australia

tavavua beaches in fiJi “a private island with sandy beaches surrounded by water. a unique paradise.”

PaPara beach in tahiti “i love the big lagoons with crystal clear water. it is magical.”

About ten years ago, Hamilton spearheaded another pastime, might not be a sport for everyone. sport, commonly referred to as paddleboarding: he A decade ago Chanel’s J12 watch debuted, though the developed long boards on which people of all ages new Hamilton version has been redesigned specifically and skill levels stand and then use a paddle to travel for the type of man who faces all sorts of water-based through the water. “I liked that everyone could do this, challenges: it functions at 300 meters underwater, it’s and that it was an entirely new way for people to see visible in darkness, and its self-winding Swiss movement the water,” Laird explains. Indeed, being dropped from can even contend even with Hamilton’s 100-foot waves. a helicopter into cyclone waves, another Hamilton “I put this thing through the test, and it’s survived me,”

Hamilton says with a grin. As if we needed affirmation of his testing process, he added, “My motto: Bigger. Higher. Faster.” derek blasberg LAIRD HAMILTON IN MONTAUK, NY AUGUST 2010 photography MagNUs UNNar styliNg derek blasberg WATCH ChaNel “J12 MARINe” WATCH


dialogues

VMAN Iggy, I think John’s most famous store is the location that took over the cBGB space. What connection do you have to that space? I heard you actually never played there. IP I preceded that movement. There were people in New York who remember this much better than I do: in late ’75 or early ’76 the CBGB movement held a party or a reception for me, a “punk reception” [laughs]. I went over there and had a drink with Johnny Thunder, Debbie Harry, Joey Ramone, Dee Dee, Tommy, and Seymour Stein, who had the smaller label Sire [Records], which was independent at the time. That was really my big visit to CBGB’s. JV You were more of a Max’s [Kansas City] guy. IP Yeah, I was from a different era. I started going to Max’s before it was a music bar—when it was still a steak house. It had been preempted by Andy Warhol, to pay his unpaid talent in free meals. If you were in one of his films and you could talk him into it, he would give you a piece of paper, like a credit card, that would get you a hamburger at Max’s. There was a back room where these people hung out and charmed each other, and the only musician that hung out there, before David Bowie moved that way, was Lou Reed. And then John Cale and Nico. But something that always interested me when I went there was that often in the front of the restaurant, as far as they could get from the back room, you would see Jimi Hendrix and Buddy Miles having a hamburger. Jimi was curious, but I don’t think he wanted to dip a toe in back there.

VMAN John, has Iggy always been someone who represents your fashion aesthetic? JV I wanted to look like the Stooges when I was grow-

pop rocks IGGY POP WAxeS NOSTAlGIc WITH FellOW DeTROIT exPAT DeSIGNeR JOHN VARVATOS When one visualizes Iggy Pop, what typically comes

42 Vman

other for about three or four years. IGGY POP Yeah, John gave me a gig. He hired me to be the world’s ugliest model, which started me on the path to my recent selection in Britain as the world’s ugliest man. JV I saw you all over the buses in London yesterday. You’re all around!

VMAN Where did you shoot it? JV It was shot in Central Park. It was great. IP I’ve done a lot of things on park benches in my life, everything from inhabiting down to soiling them. They have some very nice benches in London and Paris where I’ve managed to write some good things. You know, very civilized park benches.

VMAN Iggy, was it your first time modeling? IP I can’t remember. There’s a lot I don’t remember. When I lived in Hollywood, I liked to cross-dress when I got drunk; I remember once I modeled for the West Hollywood Police Station. They didn’t like what I was wearing and put me in jail.

IGGY POP IN MIAMI, AuGuST 2010 photography max snow PANTS John VarVatos F/W 2010

PHOTO ASSISTANT JIM BRADEN

to mind is the filthy-blond snarling badass half-naked onstage, his torso looking like some immaculate leatherover-steel machine, contorted in an impossible yogic pose, his mouth agape, rupturing the minds and eardrums of an astonished audience. His epic performances—Iggy’s still killing it on the Stooges’ reunion tour—are spectacular ballets of raw larynx power and undressed, flabbergasting physique. Despite his nearnudity, he’s inarguably a fashion icon, proving that style can be just as much about attitude as apparel. As for the look he represents, there’s possibly no greater purveyor of that broken-bottle, suited-brawlers rock aesthetic than John Varvatos. Iggy recently starred in one of Varvatos’s classic classic-rock campaigns, and we snuck our way into a conversation between these two Detroit legends to eavesdrop on the origin of Iggy’s look and some back-in-the-day tales.

VMAN First, would it be wrong to assume you two have obviously known each other a long time? JOHN VARVATOS We’ve actually only known each

ing up, and the Ramones and all those guys wanted to look like the Stooges later on. I saw the first Stooges album in 1968–69, and that’s exactly what I wanted to look like—you know, with the black leather jackets and the skinny jeans and the flares. You made everyone else look like pussies. You guys looked tough and sexy at the same time. That was the thing, it wasn’t like a ’50s black leather jacket and baggy jeans—it was tight jeans and little flares and skinny motorcycle jackets. It’s actually so fashionable right now too. Where did you guys get your influence from in terms of fashion at that point in time? IP We were all influenced by the English invaders, especially the early Beatles and the early Stones. I always wanted to look like Charlie Watts, and I liked the portrayal and imagery of the Rolling Stones during the December’s Children–David Bailey photograph period. But the big influences really, for me, were two groups of people. One was the inner-city black people from Detroit, the way they dressed was a sort of “continental style,” as they used to call it. The pocket was parallel to the ground, never on the diagonal, always horizontal. And the pants—if there’s a flare, it should be a discreet flair, or a straightleg pant. And what you wear on top should be something that was ambiguously flashy, not obviously flashy. The other big influences for me were the Vietnam vets, guys coming back from Nam. They knew from guns, and it changed everything.


sing the world electric From Denmark to South aFrica, theSe gorgeouS chanteuSeS create through their blooD anD biographieS a portrait oF our planet in Song

The first question that comes to mind when contemplating the pop star Oh Land is, naturally, what on earth does “Oh Land” mean? “It is my middle name,” says the stunning young Dane. “It felt pretty natural. When I make my music I kind of dive into my own little universe, my own private little land.” Oh Land grew up in a suburb of Copenhagen, her mother an opera singer and the rest of her family musicians as well. In an effort to rebel against the family craft, she took up ballet, accepting admission to the Royal Academy. But when a slipped disc rendered her unable to continue dancing, she had an epiphany that saved her from an identity crisis and potentially maddening boredom. “When I had that injury, I basically couldn’t move for two months. So I was lying on the floor in the kitchen of my parents’ house, and I really needed to express myself.” Her visible kinetic energy makes this assertion something of an understatement. “I realized that every time I am frustrated I naturally play music, so I didn’t have to make a choice or search so much for something else that I am good at.” Given this set of circumstances, one can’t help wonder where Oh Land would be had she never sustained her fateful injury. “I have actually never asked myself that,” she laughs. “I don’t think I would still dance.

I think I would have probably gone into music eventually. I would never in the world exchange anything.” Patrik sandberg OH LAnD In neW yORk CITy, SepTemBeR 2010 PhotograPhy catherine servel styling catherine newell-hanson SHIRT diesel black gold f/W 2010 BRIefS AnD BRA dolce & gabbana f/W 2010

Oh Land’s debut ep Oh Land is out now on SOny Records

HAIR ASHLey JAvIeR fOR kÉRASTASe pARIS mAkeup CHIHO OmAe uSInG CHAneL COSmeTICS (fRAnk RepS) mAnICuRe DAWn STeRLInG (B AGenCy ny) pHOTO ASSISTAnTS JAmeS GARReTT AnD AnGeLO D’AGOSTInO DIGITAL OpeRATOR nOAH eSpeRAS (DTOuCH) STuDIO ROOT [Bk]

oh land


CIara HAIR kIYAH wRIGHT (MUzE AGENCY) MAkEUp YolANDA FREDERICk (GolDFINGER CREATIvE) MANICURE DAwN sTERlING (B AGENCY NY) pHoTo AssIsTANTs JAMEs GARRETT AND ANGElo D’AGosTINo DIGITAl opERAToR NoAH EspERAs (DToUCH) sTUDIo RooT [Bk]

Ciara may be a multiplatinum global superstar, but she started out as a nomadic global citizen. “I was a military baby,” she explains matter-of-factly. The R&B heartbreaker, famous for showing off her “Goodies” with unparalleled dancing prowess, spent part of her childhood in Germany and Utah before her family settled in Atlanta, the city she considers her home base. “I’ve always had big dreams. I definitely had a vision for myself—to become a successful artist and entertainer.” Her ambition proved to be a critical counterpart to her enormous talent as a dancer and singer—so much so that simply by focusing on clean production and occasionally letting her body do the talking Ciara has injected into the mainstream scene a burst of fresh air, with jaw-dropping physical performances that leave her flashier contemporaries in the dust. “Fashion matters,” says Ciara, whose most sartorially ostentatious moments come from her 2009 record, Fantasy Ride, “but it’s about what you are bringing to the stage that matters to me even more. I just wanted to take all this stuff off and put on my sneakers, and I hadn’t done that in a really long time.” In her fourth studio album, the aggressively titled

Basic Instinct, Ciara strips away the excess to focus on bass-heavy dance R&B, courtesy of co-producers Tricky and The-Dream. The result is nothing short of her most definitive and irrepressible record yet—so graphic, one might say, that the album’s lead-in single and video, “Ride,” was promptly banned by the BET network for its suggestive lyrics and choreography. “I was really surprised,” she says of the incident. “It was unfortunate that my video was banned, because BET and the urban community are at the core of who I am. But I am very proud of the video and I don’t take back anything that I did for it.” Nor should she. The video has since raked in upwards of fifteen million views on YouTube and helped keep the attention of one of fashion’s most visionary talents, Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci.

“That is the most exciting thing for me, I can’t even tell you,” Ciara says of her new role as fashion model

and muse to the label. “performing onstage will always be number one, that is the top. But this is a whole new world for me. when I first walked on set with Riccardo, I was like ‘wow!—I don’t want this to end! I’ve got to keep working hard.’” Meanwhile, Ciara is intent on continuing to foster her lifelong globalism. “It’s important to me that no matter what I can always perform in the hood of Atlanta, Georgia, or the suburbs in the U.k. The music has to be diverse.

This album, out of all my albums, is the one that is most dedicated to my fans. I just hope they enjoy this and they feel like this is classic Ciara.” PatrIk Sandberg CIARA IN NEw YoRk CITY, sEpTEMBER 2010 PhotograPhy CatherIne Servel StylIng CatherIne newell-hanSon CoAT burberry ProrSum F/w 2010 pANTs verSaCe F/w 2010

Basic Instinct is out now on laFace Records vman 45


music

“Car crash music” is how South African singer yo-Landi

vi$$er likes to describe the aesthetic of her band, Die Antwoord—as in shocking, maybe, but hard not to watch.yo-Landi, who catapulted into web consciousness last february when a couple of homemade videos went beyond viral, has taken her crew of Cape Town misfi ts from years of struggle to hipster stardom. Being in the spotlight has helped to compose the former outcasts. “for fi ve years we’ve been doing this and we felt like mental people,” vi$$er says. “And then, when this shit started exploding, we started feeling normal.” yo-Landi, who’s about to embark on another Antwoord global tour, might feel normal at the top, signed by music goliath Interscope. But like label-mate Lady Gaga, she makes no apologies for her, shall we say, idiosyncrasies. “I’d rather throw myself out of a building than worry about what people think. If people have problems with

our lyrics, they have issues within themselves. It’s their issues, not my issues.” With international touring followed by an upcoming second album, Ten$ion, and a Die Antwoord fi lm on tap for 2011, do not expect yo-Landi to slow down or—God forbid—stay in one place: “When we started Die Antwoord…I was like, fuck this, I don’t want to stay in this place anymore, I don’t want to live here forever. [Bandmate and baby’s daddy] ninja and I became like psychos, dude, trying to get out of a hole. And we did!” John norris

yO-LAnDI vI $ $ eR In CApe TOWn, SOuTH AfRICA, SepTemBeR 2010 PhotograPhy ross garrett stylist gabrielle de gersigny COAT gabrielle de gersigny and lauren Farrow

HAIR AnD mAkeup SJAnI (One LeAGue) pHOTO ASSISTAnT DOuGLAS BOWeR SeT STyLIST kezIA eALeS SeT BuILDeR HARRy WeBSTeR LIGHTInG GLOW HIRe STuDIO GOLDen ISLAnD STuDIOS ReTOuCHInG ROSS GARReTT (InJOzI)

yo-landi vi$$er


inter national players’ antHem it takes a certain cool to make success look this easy. We caught up With 6 of the hardest Working men in hip hop to learn What makes their style and their greatness appear so effortless pHotograpHy Cameron Krone styling James wortHington-demolet text niCK Burd

kid cudi Kid Cudi is your funky art-school cousin who’s constantly reminding you in subtle ways that he’s cooler than you. But he’s also your introspective stoner across-thestreet neighbor longing for a connection. “I’m trying to think about how I can make the most beautiful sounding song ever created,” he tells us, his voice lifting a bit at the prospect. “Each time, I just want somebody to feel something in their heart.” Sure, this is a guy who turned Lady Gaga’s “Poker Face” into an acoustic, selfish little anthem about fellatio, but he’s also the one who told us that his goal as an artist is to make music that helps people through hard times. We asked him if there was a song that helped get him through a difficult period. “My Mind is Playing Tricks on Me” by the Geto Boys, he cites without missing a beat. “That was a jam that got me through a lot of shit.” He speaks candidly about a cocaine problem that he recently kicked—a cleansing recovery that helped him get his brain back. “Now I’m back on a mission, fully charged up,” he says, his eyes scanning the studio for the blunt we can both smell. I ask when he quit, and he stops his smell-search to give me a grave look. “The night I got arrested,” he says, before bursting out in laughter, punky little hip hop daredevil that he is. T-SHIrT Billionaire Boys CluB LEaTHEr PaNTS VersaCe HaT Bailey of Hollywood CuFF KennetH Jay lane aLL oTHEr CLoTHING aNd aCCESSorIES arTIST’S oWN

48 Vman


big boi Big Boi just might be the epitomic International Player. We chatted with him the day after his sold-out show at Williamsburg’s Brooklyn Bowl. Bright, friendly, and clearly still riding high on the previous night’s vibe, he tells us the show “was full of energy. a lotta, lotta energy.” The funk superstar clearly thrives on energy—even his vocal style has a kinetic quality fueled by an abundance of creativity and vision. It’s a trait that carries over into his personal sense of style. “You can tone it down one day, or some days you might wanna get real flagrant with it,” he shrugs, ’cause it ain’t no thing. “You might want to put some hard bottoms on or you might wanna just put on a pair of linen cargos and some Jordans. It’s all about just feeling confident.” There’s no reason the Georgia native shouldn’t be brimming with confidence these days. He recently designed the Sir Lucious Left Foot Limited Edition sneaker for Converse, and he’s working on the blueprints for both a new outkast record and another solo joint he’s calling Daddy Fat Sax: Soul Funk Crusader. There’s also a top-secret animation project that’s been in the pipes for five or six years that might see the light of day soon. “a lot of surprises are coming next year,” he promises. and a surprise from this guy never disappoints. JaCKET aNd PoCKET SquarE tom ford HaT KopenHagen fur SuNGLaSSES vINTaGE ferrari aLL oTHEr CLoTHING aNd aCCESSorIES arTIST’S oWN


muSic

fabolous It’s been almost ten years since Fabolous’s debut record, Ghetto Fabolous, came out, but he continues to more than hold his own in the world of hip hop, a game

he refers to as a young man’s sport. Perhaps the secret to his longevity is that his creative thirst has yet to be quenched. “I’m not satisfied,” he says, “but I’m appreciative that I’ve been able to hang around this long.” His career has seen an impressive number of collaborations, but he still has a wish list of pairings that includes Nas, Eminem, Jadakiss, and T.I. There’s something larger-than-life about the quietseeming 32-year-old, but there have been moments when Fab’s calm demeanor might have been overshadowed by the drama of his personal life. After a series of well-documented brushes with the law, Fabolous now claims to have the wisdom that comes with age. “At 32, you got to think about things before you do them,” he says. “This is my career, you know what I’m saying? This is not me just rapping anymore as some hobby and jumping around onstage. This is something that provides for me and my family, my friends, the people that I care about. So, you know, it’s a deeper thing for me now.” JEANS PRPS BElT YveS Saint lauRent WATcH DaviD YuRman BooTS timbeRlanD SWEATEr vINTAgE NEcklAcES ANd SuNglASSES ArTIST’S oWN

jay sean Not too long ago, Jay Sean’s life was on a very different track. “I was studying medicine before I got signed,” he recollects sans longing. “I was two years into my medical degree, so I would’ve been a doctor by now.” Born kamaljit Singh Jhooti, the r&B singer is now a bona fide record-breaking star. Not only did the sparkling club anthem “down”—which shows his uncanny knack for mixing genres to come up with something sharply modern and compulsively listenable—sell over 3 million digital copies, it also gave Sean the honor of being the first solo artist of Asian descent to top the Billboard 100. “I’m blending r&B, pop, and dance elements in my music,” he says, with a calm confidence that hints at what his bedside manner must be like. “People on the whole like a bit of everything.” Though now officially label-mates with lil Wayne (who was featured on “down”) on the thuggish cash Money records, the fashionable Brit hasn’t lost his European sense of style. “I remember when I first came to America people would laugh at my pointy shoes and my skinny jeans. [But now] all that European fashion is coming over to America. It’s something that I tried not to lose because that’s me.” SHIrT FReD PeRRY All oTHEr cloTHINg ANd AccESSorIES ArTIST’S oWN

50 vman


ne-yo Ne-Yo arrived to his photo shoot right on time, but his selection of hats did not. although he, of course, looked every bit the sophisticated gentleman while waiting in his fitted black blazer, it was clear he didn’t feel complete without something on his head. “That was weird,” he confessed afterward. “You’re doing a photo shoot with Ne-Yo—my trademark being my hat, you gotta have the hats.” It’s no coincidence that he uses the word “trademark.” Ne-Yo is a one-man song-writing factory, spinning pop gold for Beyoncé, Enrique Iglesias, and Whitney Houston. He even recently found himself in the unlikely situation of penning a tune with country star Tim McGraw. “It was me, him, a guy with a guitar, and that was it,” he says. “We did it in their living room. Faith Hill made me fried chicken.” as for being an entrepreneur, Ne-Yo—born Shaffer Chimere Smith—makes sure his personal style reflects it. “If you are a gentleman, or at least trying to be, you understand the importance of looking the part,” he says firmly. “You understand the importance of not walking out the house looking like a bum, because your appearance speaks before you do. You’re a walking, talking billboard, and you’re advertising yourself.” Good thing those hats finally arrived. SuIT sisley SHIrT Z Zegna HaT Bailey of Hollywood EarrING arTIST’S oWN

GrooMING JodIE BoLaNd uSING dIor (SEE MaNaGEMENT) PHoTo aSSISTaNT CHrISToPHEr arTZ GrooMING aSSISTaNTS CarrIE LaMarCa aNd aNNa SCHNEIdEr LoCaTIoN CaNoE STudIoS, NEW YorK

j. cole Sure, J. Cole’s just putting out his first record. and it’s clear that while the prettyfaced 25-year-old seems to take fashion seriously, he’s also just beginning to figure it out. “I’m still learning the things that I like,” he says, claiming to get sick of clothes at a frighteningly rapid pace—save one recent acquisition: an army fatigue jacket from rag & Bone. “It’s just an incredible jacket,” he swears. “It’s one of those jackets I’m going to wear all fall.” Cole displays a work ethic that directly reflects that of his mentor, Jay-Z, who shot him down multiple times when Cole was asking for a chance. But with a lot of hard work and persistence, Cole became the first artist to be signed to Hova’s roc Nation entertainment company. When we ask what advice the unofficial Mayor of New York has passed on, he tells us about an analogy of Jay Z’s that’s stuck in his head. “[It’s] about moving through a dark room just off instinct. When you finally get to the end of the room, and you turn the lights on, you see that there was a pit of snakes you could’ve fallen into. But you didn’t know it. You were just following your heart.” JaCKET BK CirCus SHIrT Comme des garçons sHirt JEaNS self edge WaTCH HuBlot STYLING aMoN MoNSur SEE MorE oF THE HIP HoP PorTFoLIo oN vMaN.CoM


E NEWS N WS K )C U G W (E M R H D N IA L Y T S P O

SISLEY SI BOY Y Z C B F L H T S R E G N A M IO D U

A ARTIST DAN COLEN DONS HIS RECENT JA L JACKET FOR EDGY INTERNATIONAL FA FASHION BRAND SISLEY . Y L )G M (P K O T U B N A V D E F IR

“You never can tell on a day like this,” says Vance, the “Y

existential nihilist motorcycle gang leader in cult clas-ex

C o ’g e y in c ls r a

HAIR FRED VANDEBUNT FOR REDKEN (ART DEPARTMENT) GROOMING BILLY B. (ART DEPARTMENT)) HA PROP PR STYLIST ANDY HARMAN (THE WALL GROUP) PHOTO ASSISTANTS NICK SETHI AND NIKKI TAPPA STYLIST ASSISTANT NIKKI IGOL L STUDIO ST MANAGER SETH GOLDFARB DIGITAL TECHNICIAN GLEN FABIAN RETOUCHING BRIAN ZIEGLER

n o irld h yw ,”sa

si sic biker fi lm m Th The Loveless.. “Things could be goin’ jake e on minute then—presto—before you know it, you’re one history.” The quote, referring to the fl eeting life of the hi murderous, mu e high-octane bikers, might also describe the h fate of many young artists: hot one second, gone the fa next. Dan Colen, however, might be different. A grungy,, ne guttural gu C le n voice in the art world for nearly a decade, Colen o recently sold out his solo show, “Poetry,” at the glob-re ally renowned Gagosian Gallery, fi rmly establishing the al 31-year-old as one off the generation’s biggest successs 31 stories. And Colen’s work extends beyond the gallery st y space, with high-profi le collaborations like his recent sp Ss r co ,fo y le commission for edgy Italian luxury brand Sisley, i for whom he customized a motorcycle jacket to be included wh d in its Andy Warhol Museum exhibition. “Art “A has no exciting place in the fashion fa world,” sayss the oft provocative Colen. “That said,” he continues, “I’m th glad they intersect as frequently as they do.” Despite his gl cheeky ch sardonicism, Colen’s Co take on the iconic leatherr jacket j is pitch-perfect. As for his inspiration? “Kenneth h Anger’s A Scorpio Sc Rising,” ,” he says, referring to the trans-gressive gr experimental fi lm from fr 1964 that shocked the e mainstream with its portrayal of the fetishistic rebel cul-ma ture of the leather jacket, without which there would be tu e no n Lo Loveless,, let alone people like David Lynch. “I basi-cally just copied him.” Self-deprecation isn’t unusual ca when fi nally beginning to collect on hard-earned suc-wh cess, but that too shall pass, as ce s Colen’s o clearly going g nowhere no but up.. DALLAS DA WINSTON N DA DAN COLEN IN NEW YORK CITY, OCTOBER 2010 0 PH PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY RICHARDSON N ST STYLING YUKI JAMES S JA JACKET T DA DAN COLEN FOR THE SISLEY ART PROJECT, TO BENEFIT THE ANDY WARHOL MUSEUM M A ALL OTHER CLOTHING COLEN’S OWN N

VMAN 53


NEWS

A GLOBAL CAUSE For the second year in a row, the Keith Haring Foundation, continuing the legacy of the famed artist, fi lmmaker, performer, musician, and early pioneer of AIDS awareness, will work with Planned Parenthood Federation of America to put out Proper Attire condoms. Premiering on World Aids Day (December 1st ) at MOCA, the condoms will be available online at properattirecondoms.com.

FINLAND LIQUID TREASURE Within a shipwreck in the Baltic Sea was discovered what can only be described as

treasure: champagne, perfectly preserved by the pressure of the sea, possibly dating back to the late 18 th century. Ownership of the highly drinkable bubbly trove defaults to the government of Åland, a little-known Finnish archipelago where the wreckage lies at rest. “We are quite certain that we have indeed found the oldest bottles of champagne,” says Björn Häggblom, head of communications for the Åland government. As for who will care for the rare, delicate bounty: the virtuous Veuve Clicquot House, guardians of champagne history, have extended a philanthropic hand, ensuring this 21st-century treasure will last another two hundred years. TOMMY MELDER

MEET ME IN MIAMI Nick Jones continues to expand

JAPAN THE FABRIC OF FOREVER Tattoo master Horiyoshi III of Yokohama, the last surviving practitioner of Irezumi, the Japanese art of full-body tattooing, lends his legendary skill to a new, eponymous line of modern men’s and women’s high-end casual apparel: knit cardigans, sweaters, hoodies, and more, made from the fi nest wool, silk, and cashmere. With images of classical Japanese woodblock motifs (warriors, the elements, Buddhist gods, the phoenix, and dragons), these well-made duds are not as permanent as ink under your skin, but it’s as close as most Westerners are likely to get. BLAKE STAUB

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ITALY WORLDLY SOLE Ferragamo WORLD is a paradox: the shoes, representative of a more casual Italian lifestyle, are certainly less formal and serious—yet beautifully sincere and sophisticated, as is typical of the elite, elegant fashion house—but the cause they address couldn’t be more dire. Ferragamo WORLD is a brand partnership with Acumen Fund, a nonprofi t addressing global poverty in South Asia and East Africa. “Great wealth has been created in the world as a result of globalization and the power of technology and markets,” says Javier Suarez, director of men’s leather products. “These benefi ts must fi nd a way to reach a wider segment of the population. Giving back to society, not only in terms of alleviating poverty but also in terms of sustainability, should be the concern of all.” Pick up one of the six models this fall; treat your sole and your soul to comfort. TM

GERMANY AN INTERNATIONAL AUDI(ENCE) The extravagant praise pouring forth for the new Audi A8 proves that the German manufacturer hardly needs internationally celebrated superhero mascots such as Tony Stark and James Bond. This world may love and need ’em, but the car speaks for itself: the new generation of the luxury performance sedan features an MMI touch pad with handwriting recognition, the brand’s signature Quattro all-wheel-drive technology, full LED headlights, and an effi cient 8-speed Tiptronic transmission. Whether you’re a spy, a self-appointed hero, or just someone with great taste looking to get around in style, get in an Audi—your life just might depend on it. FRANCES CHA

FERRAGAMO, PROPER ATTIRE, HORIYOSHI III PHOTOGRAPHY DOM SMITH GROOMING JOANNA LILY WONG MODEL ALEX O’NEILL (NEXT)

his Soho House empire: in the past year we’ve seen outposts of the iconic London-based restaurant and den of hedonism pop up in Los Angeles and Berlin. But, for the coming winter months, all eyes are on the new Soho Beach House, which opened this month. Culinary delights at Cecconi’s and fabulous people-watching at two pools and, of course, on the beach, will ease your winter blues.


NEWS

NEW YORK SCHOTT TO THE HEART Schott NYC’s Americana credentials are beyond reproach. The brand invented the motorcycle jacket in 1913, in the same factory where the majority of their pieces are still produced. Manchester native and creative director Greg Chapman has embraced Schott’s American roots while updating its style. One step in that direction is the capsule collection Schott NYC for Barneys New York. This, their second collaboration with the retail giant, includes six outerwear pieces, ranging from a wool varsity jacket to a moto jacket made from Icelandic cowhide. Americana-made luxe.

PERU THE STUFF OF LEGEND Prada’s Made in Peru collection of knitwear is spun from the fi nest alpaca

wool, offering a legendary toasty warmth cherished by Incan emperors. In the spirit of Miuccia’s grandfather, the gentleman-connoisseur Mario

Prada, who traveled the continents in search of the fi nest materials and craftsmen, Prada’s “Made In…” project transcends geographical boundaries to bring you the best of what the world has to offer. FC

JARED FLINT SCHOTTNYC.COM

LONDON TRUNK CLOTHIERS Mats Klingberg is a dashing Swede who has explored the far corners of the globe with his

partner, media mogul Tyler Brûlé. So when Klingberg launched his menswear boutique, Trunk Clothiers, in London, he modeled it after his own lifestyle and tastes, also drawing on his experience in luxury marketing. At Trunk, a two-storied Scandinavian-inspired haven on Marylebone’s Chiltern Street, you’ll fi nd suits, shoes, accessories, perfumes, and everything in between. The brands are mostly exclusive to the store: Stealth Wealth from Tokyo, Aspesi, and Zanone from Italy. There ‘s also a bespoke shirt service and a hyperattentive staff, which refl ects Klingberg’s view that shopping for men should be fun and hassle-free. “I love meeting and serving people, and it’s one of the main reasons I started Trunk,” says Klingberg. “If it hadn’t been a shop, it would have been a hotel.” SHIRINE SAAD TRUNKCLOTHIERS.COM

LACOSTE LEGENDS: THE POWER OF 12

The high priest of sneaker fever, Simon Wood, took this

Lacoste tapped twelve all-star tastemakers—designers, editors, shopkeepers, and style icons—to create special-edition footwear, launching this December. Christophe Lemaire, along with Tim Hamilton, Sneaker Freaker, i-D, Shoes Master, Sebastien Tellier, Stones Throw, ato, D-Mop, Colette, Bodega, and Soul II Soul founding member Jazzie B, designed and co-branded with the French fashion house polo-inspired men’s shoes. Tim Hamilton worked on the collaboration with his Redux label in mind, mixing the classic 1963 original René Lacoste

sole with an outré hi-top proportion and military-inspired dipdyed finish. “I’m in my late thirties,” Hamilton says. “What do you wear when you’re older, when you’re a grown-up?”

opportunity to create a boat shoe—with a twist. “With this one,

we needed to set an agenda by doing something that hasn’t been done before,” Wood says. He demonstrates how the collar on the shoe can be popped up—just like on the iconic shirt. “That’s the essence of a great idea,” he says. “Not [something] immediately obvious—it’s all about being restrained and letting people discover that there’s a little bit of an idea there. Exactly the same as the shirt.” DANICA LO FROM LEFT: SNEAKERS LACOSTE LEGENDS BY TIM HAMILTON JEANS ACNE, SNEAKERS LACOSTE LEGENDS BY SNEAKER FREAKER JEANS Y-3 SOCKS LACOSTE, SNEAKERS LACOSTE LEGENDS BY CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE PANTS DOCKERS 24TEETH.COM

l

N NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN, AND P PARIS NAOMI CAMPBELL TAKES A T TOUR FOR DOLCE & GABBANA u o

s s

f t s v

Naomi with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana in Milan

56 VMAN

Naomi with Claudia Schiffer in London

a P ris

h Naomi signing T-shirts in n Paris

Naomi with Tyson Beckford in New York

A th Although we didn’t need reminding, Naomi Campbell’s Cam status as one of the most super models o el of all time was reaffi rmed by her international fashion-month fa h tour. During the collections in all four of fashion’s a major cities, Ms. Campbell sashayed into in o Dolce & Gabbana stores to sign limited edition T-shirts Th bearing her image, celebrating her twentyfi ve e years in the business. Working for a quarter century cen has given her a huge portfolio and quite a big heart: all proceeds from these sales went to her charity, c Fashion For Relief. DEREK BLASBERG

SCHOTT AND LACOSTE PHOTOGRAPHY DOM SMITH STYLING NIKKI IGOL MODEL ALEX O’NEILL (NEXT)

E Y W R A U O


FraGrance

eau so exotic These elusive new scenTs are culled from The far reaches of The earTh, which somehow makes Them perfecT for your baThroom cabineT

PHotoGraPHy dan Forbes

dolce & Gabbana the one gentleman: spicy, dashing, masculine—just like the dolce man himself

58 Vman

Hermès iris ukiyoÉ: meaning “image of the floating world,” this blend of roses and orange blossom is inspired by the simplicity and depth of an ancient haiku

dior, tHe collection leather oud & vÉtiver: simple, essential takes on oud wood and vetiver, destined to become new classics

photo assistants adam mcclure and sam zide studio root [bk]

tom Ford bois marocain & italian cypress: madagascan pepper and the root of the mystical thuya tree transport you to morocco; an italian alchemy of woods and resins harmonizes tradition and modernity

Kilian beyond love: an opulent, intoxicating blend of tuberose, coconut, and musk


SIX STUDIOS 30,000 SQUARE FEET FULL PRODUCTION DIGITAL CAPTURE POST PRODUCTION ASSET MANAGEMENT EQUIPMENT / STUDIO RENTAL

250 HUDSON STREET, 11TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY, 10013

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212.924.4410


liBations

photo assistants adam mccLurE and sam zidE studio root [bk]

the sPirit world The many ways in which we’ve come To Turn our fruiTs and grains To liquor painTs a greaT porTraiT of our global family. earTh: drinking responsibly since forever PhotoGraPhY dan forBes editor Jason rowan

veuve CliCquot rosÉ rEims, FrancE

ron zaCaPa Centenario rum zacapa, GuatEmaLa

Pernod absinthE pontarLiEr, FrancE 12 ouzo ouzo piraEus, GrEEcE

MaCChu PisCo pisco ica, pEru

Belvedere vodka zyrardów, poLand

the Glenlivet sinGLE maLt scotch whisky spEysidE, scotLand

ileGal MezCal Joven mEzcaL oaxaca, mExico

Basil haYden kEntucky straiGht bourbon whisky bardstown, kEntucky, u.s.a.

Beefeater 24 London dry Gin London, EnGLand

60 vMan

deleón diaMante tEquiLa purisima dEL rincón, mExico

oriGinal Moonshine virGinia, u.s.a.

YaMazaki whiskEy yamazaki, osaka provincE, Japan

CYnar pEzzioLa, itaLy

Clear Creek pEar-in-thE-bottLE Eaux dE viE portLand, orEGon, u.s.a.


LAG LA L A AG GOM OM S OMSTH TH T LM THLM. LM. L M M.C CO COM OM M


VMAN 20 AVAILABLE NOW ON THE iPAD

FEATURING EXCLUSIVE ON-SET VIDEOS, ADDITIONAL IMAGES, AND A LOOK BACK AT 20 ISSUES OF THE MOST DIRECTIONAL MAGAZINE IN MEN’S FASHION


Fashion Conquers the globe (and the seasons) the danish dreams oF mario testino, gus van sant’s gritty vision oF miChael Pitt, hedi slimane & Collier sChorr’s double vision oF men’s Fashion, and the borough boys oF david armstrong Plus: manhattan lovers, JaPanese tribalists, the Future oF menswear, the global titans oF male modeling, and the best Fashions From winter to sPring vman 63


Shirt D&G F/W 2010 BrieFS ArmAni ExchAnGE CuFF GEorG JEnsEn

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sTEPhEn Dorff He’s been labeled everytHing from a cHild Prodigy to a Hollywood bad boy, but after His starring role in tHe film Somewhere, stePHen dorff’s getting comfortable witH a new moniker: leading man Photography mario Testino styling Andrew richardson


“This isn’T sTEPhEn’s comEBAck. iT’s his rEDiscoVEry.” –sofiA coPPolA

“Comeback” is such a nasty word. Because coming back means having been down-and-out, forgotten, underappreciated, and irrelevant for some amount of time. Despite some recent commentary that Stephen Dorff— last seen in Michael Mann’s Public Enemies and Oliver Stone’s World Trade Center, and now starring in Sofia Coppola’s Somewhere—is being told he’s having just such a return to glory, we prefer to think the guy never left. As Coppola puts it, “this isn’t Stephen’s comeback. it’s his rediscovery.” After years as a cinematic villain and tabloid ladies man, Dorff is reminding the world that he’s got chops. his Somewhere character, Johnny Marco—a successful and sometimes disillusioned A-list actor living in the Chateau Marmont in L.A. when his daughter, played eloquently by elle Fanning, is suddenly thrown back into his life—doesn’t seem like too much of a stretch for Dorff. After all, Dorff is an actor, has lived in the Chateau Marmont, is chased by paparazzi, and (we can only imagine) is often propositioned by beautiful young women whom he inadvertently insults by scorning their affections. Dorff’s fine performance comes not from Marco’s circumstances but from what lies beneath the character. “his problems aren’t external,” Dorff says. “We’re looking at a guy who has a lot of things but doesn’t really want them. i know about coasting and being numb and feeling lost, and that’s what we’re looking at here.” Marco does not get in fights and he self-medicates. he remembers staff members’ names and would never throw a room-service tray or respond in the press to crude comments from a female costar. One of the challenges of playing the character was a degree of niceness that Dorff doesn’t especially possess. “When i’m in a bad mood, i get pissed off,” he admits. i’m not as nice as Johnny. i’ll show some sort of aggression. But Johnny is a really good person.” Coppola, who met Dorff years ago—backstage at an Anna Sui fashion show—knew Dorff would tap into emotional depth. “the character of Johnny Marco is pretty flawed and not that likeable, so i knew you had to have someone loveable—otherwise you wouldn’t want to watch him for that long. You had to connect, or else who cares?” the director says. “Stephen is sweet in a way that you wouldn’t expect. he has a macho reputation for girls and partying, but he’s actually a genuine guy.”

Besides comeback, another term that fails to impress Dorff is “bad boy.” “they really need to think of some-

thing fresher than that,” Dorff smiles. “they call about nine hundred people bad boys now. it’s ridiculous. is it Sean Penn? is robert Pattinson the new bad boy? Me? robert Downey Jr.?” his mock frustration is well founded: how many movies and wives and, in Penn’s case, third World countries does one man have to explore before he gets a new moniker? “Downey, who is one of the best actors of our time, was busted with a gun in someone else’s living room. i never got arrested, i never got a mug shot.” Still, Dorff acknowledges his status as gossip fodder and admits that it was time for a life change and a career expansion, a larger contribution that would garner a more respectable form of recognition. Over lunch at James Beach in Venice, California, where he orders a burger without a bun and steamed veggies— his 37-year-old body in the film rivals that of a teenage athlete—Dorff says he owes Coppola for the opportunity to renew his interest in the craft and continue to discover his art. “i think the character Sofia gave me is handsdown the richest character i’ve ever been given, and i’ve had some pretty great parts,” Dorff says. “But there’s something about this one that maybe had to do with something in my life that was beyond my control.” While he professes not to be spiritual—“i’m not a guy who looks into crystal balls or anything”—Dorff can pinpoint the origin of his new professional direction: one year to the day before Coppola called and offered him the part, his mother, Nancy, passed away. “When i lost my mom, my whole life changed. it changed the way i thought about everything, about how i woke up every morning.” Dorff says he is still upset when he thinks that his mother will never have seen him play a father instead of a vampire or a bad guy. “She always wanted me to be a good guy.” his mother’s death and Coppola’s film were two things Dorff didn’t anticipate. While one has redefined the way he sees his world, the other will likely change the way the world sees him. Johnny Marco is a role that pushes Dorff forward, past where we may remember him to have been and into where he—and each one of us—has always wanted to go. it’s a lesson he’s happy to learn: “Not to be so solely involved with myself, to be more of a human being, to be more courteous to people, and to do the right thing. i’ve learned how to grow up.” DErEk BlAsBErG

FrAgrANCe DolcE & GABBAnA the ONe


Coat Prada F/W 2010 on hair, Oribe gold pomade


“i learned how to grow up.” –stephen dorff

Jeans Boss orange F/W 2010 BrieFs armani exchange


JACKET MARC JACOBS F/W 2010 JEANS BOSS ORANGE F/W 2010 HAIR ROQUE FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE (TRACEYMATTINGLY.COM) PHOTO ASSISTANTS IVAN SHAW AND BEN BONNET STYLIST ASSISTANT CONNIE BERG PRODUCTION ERICK JUSSEN (GE PROJECTS) AND JEMIMA HOBSON (ART PARTNER) PRODUCTION ASSISTANT KATIE BROWN EQUIPMENT RENTAL SMASHBOX LOCATIONS, LOS ANGELES LOCATION CHATEAU MARMONT, LOS ANGELES RETOUCHING R&D


styling andrew richardson artwork matias faldbakken

72 Vman

title photographY vegard kleven

mariO TeSTinO TakeS mOdel CandiCe SWanepOel TO COpenhagen On a hUnT fOr SinfUl Spring faShiOn and diSCOVerS ThaT nO maTTer WhaT SeaSOn iT iS BaCk hOme There’S alWayS SUn and SCandal WaiTing SOmeWhere in The WOrld


SeX, STUdS, and leaTher oliver wears Jacket burberry Prorsum Jeans acne candice wears Jacket burberry Prorsum Malthe wears vest burberry Prorsum leather pants acne fragrance burberry the Beat


SplendOr in The graSS candice wears sweater louis Vuitton Boots vintage Malthe wears sweater PraDa Briefs Panos emPorio


THE BAY OF THE BOLD CLOCKWISE, FROM BOTTOM LEFT: MALTHE WEARS JACKET JIL SANDER SHORTS MADS NØRGAARD SHOES CONVERSE SOCKS MODEL’S OWN WICTOR WEARS SANDALS Z ZEGNA JONAS WEARS PONCHO ISSEY MIYAKE PANTS ALEXANDER McQUEEN JOACHIM WEARS PANTS BALENCIAGA BY NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE SUNGLASSES PRADA SHOES PAUL STUART CANDICE WEARS JACKET JUNYA WATANABE COMME DES GARÇONS BANDANA (ON WRIST) MADS NØRGAARD ROPE BRACELET GILES & BROTHER BY PHILIP CRANGI BOOTS VINTAGE


OpTiCal illUSiOn candice wears shirt comme Des GarÇons homme Plus Malthe wears shirt and skirt comme Des GarÇons homme Plus JakoB wears fragrance comme Des GarÇons wonderwood


dOn’T make a meSh wictor wears Briefs ron Dorff Mesh dress vintage froM early halloween JoachiM wears Mesh top toPshoP shorts ron Dorff candice wears Mesh swiMsuit vintage froM early halloween Malthe wears tank burberry Prorsum leather pants acne on skin, DeclÉor skin energizer fluid


geT yOUr leaTher On JoachiM wears shorts DaViD samuel menkes hat loaned BY the tivoli BoYs guard Malthe wears Jacket DaViD anDerson leather pants acne wictor wears Jacket schott shirt PraDa leather pants vintage oliver wears Jacket burberry Prorsum Briefs ron Dorff Boots vintage candice wears Jacket burberry Prorsum tiMi wears Jacket maDs nørGaarD leather shorts DaViD samuel menkes


The UlTimaTe WhiTeOUT Mathias wears Jacket and Jeans Dolce & Gabbana wictor wears suit Dries Van noten t-shirt noir watch GeorG Jensen Malthe wears suit louis Vuitton Jonas wears Belt and pants ann Demeulemeester candice wears t-shirt maDs nørGaarD Bracelets GeorG Jensen ring shamballa Jewels


SUiT Up and Ship OUT wictor wears suit, shirt, pocket square Dunhill hat chanel Mathias wears all clothing PraDa Malthe wears Jacket D&G shorts maDs nørGaarD candice wears Bracelet shamballa Jewels Jonas wears shirt and pants Gianfranco ferrÉ


dO iT in denim wictor wears shirt bruuns bazaar Jeans D&G sunglasses ray-ban watches sJöö sanDström sneakers sPrinG court Malthe wears Jacket and Jeans Dries Van noten candice wears Jeans Gucci Boots vintage JoachiM wears shirt h&m Jeans DsquareD shoes Paul stuart


The BlOnd and The BeaUTifUl JoachiM wears Briefs rufskin Jonas wears shorts rufskin Malthe wears shorts bJรถrn borG wictor wears one-piece swiMsuit bJรถrn borG sunglasses ray-ban Julius wears shorts rufskin candice wears swiMsuit bJรถrn borG JakoB wears shorts rufskin on skin, Declร‰or aroMessence solaire pre-tanning seruM


angelS On WheelS Malthe wears sweater burberry Prorsum Briefs rufskin candice wears tank botteGa Veneta Briefs bJĂśrn borG Bracelet shamballa Jewels JoachiM wears Mesh top vintage froM early halloween Briefs rufskin

hair Marc lopez (artlist paris) grooMing and Makeup lucia pica for dior cosMetics (ManageMent + artists) producer thoMas hargreave (stage7) Models and talent candice swanepoel (iMg), Malthe Madsen (elite copenhagen), wictor hansson (Mikas), JoachiM clausen, Mathias kolstrup, Jonas kloch, Julius schMidt, Jon rud (2pM), tiMi radicke (new York Models, 2pM), JakoB hedBerg (new York Models), oliver knauer Manicure daniela fraser (coMplete Me) photo assistants alex franco, ivan shaw, felipe sanguinetti, alexander kornMaaler stYlist assistants connie Berg and MY ringsted hair assistant lasse pedersen grooMing and Makeup assistants anne stausager and Mette thorsgaard thoMsen production new York JeMiMa hoBson (art partner) production coordinator sanne Jorgensen (stage7) prop stYlist thoMas aBel dop seBastian wintero (stage7) caMera technician kasper vesth (kaMeraudleJnigen) filM production rafael d’alo (higher and higher) studio stage7 drivers fredrik lund and JoekiM Buff retouching r&d


blonDe ambition meeT CandiCe SWanepOel, a ViCTOria’S SeCreT mOdel WhOSe STar haS riSen TO angeliC heighTS. The CeleSTial SOUTh afriCan haS Been gazed UpOn By milliOnS, SO iT’S aBOUT Time We all geT TO knOW her Tell us a bit about your South african heritage. What

town were you born in? i grew up on a huge dairy-and-cattle farm, my world of adventure. south africa is a unique and mysterious place—it does have its share of problems, but that is part of our character. the state i lived in is called kwazulu-natal, one of the most beautiful parts of south africa: we had the beach, the mountains, tropical weather in summer, and snow in winter. the zulu culture is a huge part of who i am today, and i feel privileged to have grown up with that beauty around me. how old were you when you first traveled out of South africa? i was 15 when i went to london for the first time. i had never taken a flight, i didn’t even know what a subway was—there were so many things i had to learn; it was a brave step for me, and for my parents to let me go, but i was so excited to experience the world that i didn’t care what it took. i had grown up my entire life on my farm and spent four years at boarding school, but i always knew there was so much more to see, and i wanted to do it all on my own. i’m a very independent person, and achieving what i have alone feels so much more rewarding. Was this your first time in Scandinavia? What was your experience like with mario in Copenhagen? it was my second time in copenhagen. i love the city and the lifestyle there. But my experience of copenhagen with Mario was somewhat different. i remember when i first met Mario in new York. i was so nervous, but as soon as i saw him i was at ease. he has this way of making you feel so at home and comfortable, like you have known him for years. the VMAN shoot was amazing! Being the only girl amid a bunch of scandinavian boys—with very little wardrobe—would probably have been a bit overwhelming, but Mario put me at such ease. i felt great, and knew he would never do anything distasteful. he knows how to make a woman look and feel incredible. one of the saddest things in our industry is you get to meet the most interesting people who you connect with immediately—you work with them for two days, and when you leave you know you might never see them again. i had this feeling leaving copenhagen.


jarrid by COLLiEr SWEaTEr and panTS prada haT 7 FOr aLL MaNKINd hELMET, bELT, KEy rinG FrOM KaUFMaN’S arMY & NaVY

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dOUbLe VISION In a fIrst-of-Its-kInd collaboratIon, HedI slImane and collIer scHorr create a wInter ode to amerIcan mIlItary masculInIty wItH 19-year-old jarrId bernIer In HIs model debut photography Hedi Slimane and Collier Schorr Styling alastair McKimm

jarrid by hEdi


jarrid by COLLiEr panTS dOLCe & GabbaNa GLOVES 3.1 pHILLIp LIM


jarrid by hEdi jaCKET pOLO raLpH LaUreN


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jarrid by COLLiEr SWEaTEr HUGO bOXErS ARMANI EXCHANGE


jarrid by hEdi briEFS CaLVIN KLeIN UNderWear VinTaGE hELMET FrOM earLY HaLLOWeeN


jarrid by COLLiEr PaNTS COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS bOOTS ANN DEMEULEMEESTER bLaNKET aNd bELT frOm KAUFMAN’S ARMY & NAVY


jarrid by hEdi CUSTOMiZEd T-ShirT CaLVIN KLeIN UNderWear GrOOMinG hOLLi SMiTh (COMMUniTy.nyC) MOdEL jarrid bErniEr (ChOiCE MOdELS) phOTO aSSiSTanTS rUdOLF bEKKEr, jULiO CarLOS, ThOMaS WinChESTEr STyLiST aSSiSTanTS MiChaEL VEndOLa and Zara ZaChriSSOn LiGhTinG dirECTOr jOE TOMChO diGiTaL TEChniCianS aLESSiO bOni and MaKi prOdUCTiOn KiM pOLLOCK prOdUCTiOn aSSiSTanT naTaLiE haZZOUT LOCaTiOn FaCTOry STUdiOS and rOOT [bK] CaTErinG nOZ CaTErinG


Jeans Dolce & Gabbana necklace michael’s own


michael pitt by Gus van sant On tHe OccasiOn OF Pitt’s POWeRFul PeRFORMance in HBO’s BOARDWALK EMPIRE, tHe celeBRateD auteuR PHOtOGRaPHs anD inteRVieWs tHe RuGGeD staR photography and text Gus van sant styling brian molloy contributing art editor Dominic sidhu vman 107


“all of a suDDen five unDercover cops came out of nowhere anD threw us aGainst the wall anD they starteD arrestinG us.” –michael pitt

in 2005, director Gus Van sant made a movie called Last Days in which michael Pitt portrayed grunge god kurt cobain. everything about the project was perfect: Van sant’s style, as seen in films like Elephant, My Own Private Idaho, and Good Will Hunting, seemed akin to that quiet-on-the-outside-screaming-on-the-inside struggle which the fallen icon anthropomorphized for a generation; and there could have been no better choice than Pitt to play cobain, for his appearance, his abandon, his attitude, his eyes. Pitt’s harrowing embodiment of cobain during the darkest stage of the rocker’s storied depression finally gave the world a glimpse of the vulnerability and desperation that led to his heartbreaking suicide. The actor and director forged a fierce bond, and now, on the occasion of Pitt’s new martin scorsese-helmed Boardwalk Empire, out on hBo, we asked the celebrated auteur to photograph and interview his one-time muse—no one can draw out the elements of another’s soul quite like a director can his actor’s. Below is a taste of their encounter. Read the rest at Vman.com.

Gus Van sant How did you fall into Boardwalk Empire? MicHael Pitt They sent me the pilot and i read it and i started working on it. i went to a big casting call, where you wait in the waiting room and you put the scene down on tape, and they called me a month later. i had been in california trying to find a job and i met with [Boardwalk producer] Terry winter, and when i came back they said i could audition for marty [scorsese, who directed the pilot and executive produces the show]. i was a bit nervous, and before i went in for the audition i got dressed up—put on a suit and stuff—because it was 1920s—and i went in and i met marty, who was staying at the waldorf-astoria. he had been kind of homeless for a while and he was staying in this giant suite, and i went in and we talked and i did this scene, and he said, “That’s good, but you should do it angrier,” and so i did, but he said, again, “That’s good, but i think a bit more angry,” so i did it again even angrier and asked, “so is that good?” and he said, “Yeah, more angry!” so i went to the corner of the room and started screaming at the top of my lungs, “You motherfucker!” and punching the wall. i asked him, “is that good?” and he said, “i think it’s a good place to start.” GVs so now you’ve worked with Buscemi, like, twice? Do you guys get along? MP steve’s great. he lives in Park slope in Brooklyn, which is not that far from where i am. it’s great because

we don’t have to get to know each other and we can

just start working. GVs You guys seem like you would really get along. MP i really like working with him. in the pilot there’s a scene where i break a bottle over this guy’s head. it wasn’t scripted and i wasn’t sure if he knew about it or not, but it was kind of a last-minute idea. The first time i did it he just turned to me and he looked like he was going to kill me—so much that i almost started laughing because he was so into it. he was so there. GVs so it was acting. MP Yeah. it was like no one else was there. The way that he turned to me after i did that, he was just right there in the moment. and that’s why i really like working with him—there’s the feeling that no matter what happens he’s going to be there. i give that to him as well. if he ever wants to go somewhere, i’ll be there. i’ll just react. i won’t stop. GVs so both of you guys were shooting right in your neighborhood. MP Yeah. it was all throughout Brooklyn. GVs it wasn’t a set? MP They built a huge boardwalk with storefronts in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, by the water. it’s something that you think you’d see in california, built right on the water in Brooklyn. There’s a giant green screen around it so they can put the ocean in. GVs Boardwalk Empire is supposed to be set in atlantic city in the ’20s, right? MP Yes, it takes place in atlantic city in 1920, during Prohibition. it’s pretty cool and the history of it is pretty interesting. all these people could make serious amounts of money bootlegging liquor, distributing it. no one really thought it was a crime. i believe the FBi was formed just in response to it. i mean, that time was amazing—it kind of reminds me a little bit of the ’60s, everything so political—civil rights, the feminist movement, the music, the harlem Renaissance. everything was just coming to a peak at that time. GVs the Jazz age MP Yep, the Jazz age. Just everything. everything. GVs and you play a character that is coming up in the world of this bootlegger crime syndicate? MP as of right now i’m playing a character who’s come back from world war i. he’s sort of damaged when he comes back—he’s hurt his leg and he can’t really get a job and he’s seen all his peers who didn’t go away excel— so he decides to start bootlegging to make money. GVs and al capone—is he a character?

MP Yep. They do all the old gangsters: al capone, lucky luciano, Johnny Torrio, Donald Rothstein. GVs Did the Gambinos—did they exist then? MP who? GVs the Gambino Family. they’re a big [crime] family. MP i don’t know what you’re talking about. GVs i get it. Your relatives work for them. MP shut the fuck up. GVs are you under a code of silence? [laughter.] MP can you talk about how River Phoenix got involved with My Own Private Idaho? GVs Yeah. it was a really funny-looking script. it was about seventy pages and it had lots of different sized type, like it might have a paragraph that was eighteen-point type and the next piece would be a different size font—it looked like a patchwork. it was basically inspired by scripts that i had seen written by stanley Kubrick—each script had a different philosophy of margins. strangely, in the script that i read of A Clockwork Orange, the action was written in a single-word column down the page, but the dialogue was written so it looked like an Ogden nash poem. On top of that it was about male prostitutes in Portland, so it was a little touchy. We were planning to make something quite low-budget and we were going to cast non-actors, and that’s just what we assumed would happen. But we did have two people we wanted to play the parts: one was Keanu Reeves and one was River Phoenix. they were sort of our wish list. We didn’t have any others—we just offered it to those two guys alone. Keanu was really interested because he had shot a film in Portland and he had done Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure, and i think he felt like he wanted to do something serious. MP: had he done River’s Edge by then or no? GVs: Yeah, he had. Reaching River was different. His agent, unlike Keanu’s agent, completely flipped out and said, “Over my dead body will he do this movie.” so i drove the script over to the chateau Marmont [where River was staying] and there was Rain Phoenix answering the door, and i gave her the script. and then he got really into it. MP: Bernardo [Bertolucci, who directed Pitt in The Dreamers] told me—i hope i’m remembering it correctly—but i feel like he told me that he cast keanu [in Little Buddha] after he saw Idaho. You know, i called Bernardo after i had the audition with marty. GVs Oh really?


clockwise FRom ToP RiGhT: henleY John varvatos necklace lanvin, (nexT 2 imaGes) leaTheR JackeT Gus’s own hooDie converse by John varvatos T-shiRT sisley necklace anD PanTs lanvin BooTs (woRn ThRouGhouT) michael’s own, (BoTTom leFT) hooDie acne Jeans Diesel necklace michael’s own, (RemaininG 3 imaGes) JackeT acne shiRT woolrich Jeans levi’s


“i starteD screaminG at the top of my lunGs anD punchinG the wall. i askeD him, ‘is that GooD?’ anD he saiD, ‘i think it’s a GooD place to start.’” –michael pitt on auDitioninG for martin scorsese

MP Yeah, we had talked about Bernardo in the meeting, and when they were deciding between me and another person i was getting really nervous and thinking they’re not going to go with me because i only make small movies. so i called Bernardo one night because i was getting really anxious and left him a message saying i’d had a meeting with martin scorsese. and he called me back and left me a message in which he said, “michael? so i hear you’re meeting martin, and i’m assuming you want me to call him and tell him—i don’t know what you want me to tell him, but i’m not going to call him, because you’re fantastic and you’re going to get it.” and then he said, “keanu Reeves came to visit me today.” and then he hung up the phone. [laughter.] i saved the message for as long as i could. i thought it was hilarious. Yep. any more questions? GVs What was the main title of the studio 54 movie? MP why do you want to ask me that? GVs Wasn’t that one of the early parts that you got? MP i guess, if you can call it a part. i was an extra. i showed up to do extra work. But it’s one of probably fourteen films they shot in new York at the time that i was in. GVs You were an extra in fourteen different movies? MP Yeah. one of them was a Joel schumacher film—it was with Robert De niro and Tim Roth, and i think it was called Flawless. i was there with my friends and they wanted these two punk rock guys to be standing in this elevator while Robert De niro ran in, or something. Joel schumacher picked us, which meant we were going to get paid like two or three hundred dollars more, which at that time meant that we had our rent for the month, so it was a big deal. we were standing in the east Village with all the extras, next to a prostitute and a little person, talking about the money we were going to get. so someone—one of the extras—had a really great idea and said, “we should celebrate,” and they sparked up a joint. so we’re standing there on the corner in front of this church and we’re smoking a joint and we’re excited, then all of a sudden five undercover cops came out of nowhere and threw us against the wall and they started arresting us. and so they’re handcuffing us as Joel

schumacher walks by, and we’re like, “look, we’ll be out in twenty-four hours and we can be right back here tomorrow.” as the cops were pulling us into the car, he was just sort of like, “That’s it—sorry, boys.” so we asked the cops if we could at least sign the waiver so we could be paid for the day’s work, and they said no and took us to jail. GVs and you didn’t get to shoot the scene? MP no, we didn’t shoot the scene. GVs Did you get out in twenty-four hours? MP well, the thing is they put us in the back of this truck and they were sweeping the truck and there was this girl and this guy who got in and they started speaking spanish. The friend who i was with—my friend alejandro—i see him put his head down and say, “no, no, no, no, no.” and i said, “what—what are they saying?” The girl could get out of her cuffs and she had a knife and what they were telling everyone was, the next time the van stops, when the cops get out and put someone else in the van, the girl is going to stab the cop in the neck. and then everyone’s going to run. [laughter.] so we’re in the back freaking out because we’re going in with these people and we’re fucked either way because if we say anything we’d get beaten in jail and if we don’t say anything they’re going to try and stab this cop and he’s going to turn around and start shooting in the back of the van and we’re all just back there with our hands tied. luckily, it didn’t happen. The girl, she had her hand out of the cuffs, and she was behind the cop with the knife, waiting for the car to stop and for them to open the door, and for some reason the cop had a feeling and said, “why are you getting so close to me? sit down.” Then finally they took us to county. GVs Fuck. MP i remember when we—do you remember when we were talking about Last Days and we were in this neighborhood of run-down houses [in Portland] and we met these kids and they were like, “oh you should come inside and jam and play some music,” and we went into their basement and jammed with them. GVs Oh, yeah! that’s true. MP That was really—it spoke about the heart. see more of van sant’s imaGes at vman.com


hooDie acne Jeans Diesel necklace michael’s own

GRoominG mauDe lacePPe PhoTo assisTanTs scoTT GReen, DaViD PaRson, John PaRson sTYlisT assisTanT Jessica BoBince equiPmenT RenTal sanDBox PoRTlanD ReTouchinG Ras


CHristiAn BrYLLe PHOtOgrAPHs HiMseLF AnD MODeL FreJA BeHA eriCHsen in sOMe OF Winter’s CHiCest rOCK-AnD-rOLL-reADY LOOKs, An HOMAge tO tHe POetiC, eternAL BOnD OF YOutH sHAreD BY iCOns PAtti sMitH AnD rOBert MAPPLetHOrPe Photography christian Brylle styling george cortina

112 Vman


Freja wears Pants Balmain Choker with silver beads Pony for Vicki TurBeVille Curved metal Choker againsT naTure roPe neCklaCe ann DemeulemeesTer bangles Vicki TurBeVille ring chrome hearTs Christian wears shirt hugo Boss leather Pants DsquareD skull neCklaCe againsT naTure other neCklaCes Christian’s own belt and silver braCelet Vicki TurBeVille beaded braCelet BeVel ring (his leFt) AgAinst nAture ring (his right) Christian’s own


Freja wears skull Choker againsT naTure beaded neCklaCe BeVel Feather neCkPieCe Pony for Vicki TurBeVille hanging Crystal neCkPieCe suzannah Wainhouse bangles Vicki TurBeVille silver neCklaCe (worn at waist) and ring (her leFt) chrome hearTs ring (her right) her own


Freja wears Pants Balmain Christian wears jeans 7 for all mankinD belt Vicki TurBeVille neCklaCe (worn as braCelet) suzannah Wainhouse ring againsT naTure on hair, BumBle anD BumBle surF sPray


christian wears necklace DaviD Yurman on lips, Ysl makeup rouge voluptÉ perle in mesmerizing purple


Christian wears shirt and tie calVin klein collecTion leather jaCket vintage From The casT FragranCe calVin klein intense euPhoria men


Freja wears shirt h&m tie Dior homme braCelets Vicki TurBeVille ring chrome hearTs


Christian wears jeans 7 for all mankinD belt Vicki TurBeVille Choker with silver beads, Feather neCklaCe, silver ball Pendant neCklaCe, leather straP neCkPieCe Pony for Vicki TurBeVille CuFF againsT naTure Freja wears shirt raquel allegra jeans 7 for all mankinD skull neCklaCe againsT naTure horse-hair neCklaCe Black sheeP anD ProDigal sons belt and bangles Vicki TurBeVille ring (her right) model’s own ring (her leFt) chrome hearTs boots vintage From The casT


“When i WalkeD on The sTages of The WorlD WiThouT him i WoulD close my eyes anD PicTure him Taking off his leaTher jackeT, enTering WiTh me The infiniTe lanD of a ThousanD Dances.” –PaTTi on roBerT


Freja wears Neckpiece Black Sheep and prodigal SonS jeaNs 7 for all Mankind BaNGLes Vicki TurBeVille riNG Freja’s owN christiaN wears shearLiNG vest Marc JacoBS paNts calVin klein collecTion choker pony By Vicki TurBeVille other NeckLaces christiaN’s owN cuFF aNd riNG againST naTure BeLt Vicki TurBeVille GroomiNG aNd makeup FraNk B (the waLL Group) hair rudi Lewis For BumBLe aNd BumBLe (maNaGemeNt + artists) modeLs Freja Beha erichseN (imG) aNd christiaN BryLLe (Ford Ny) maNicure oLya titova (judy casey iNc) photo assistaNts iaN rutter aNd eric BLair styList assistaNts jaime kay waxmaN aNd irayNa Basta cateriNG the cheFs aGeNcy LocatioN root [Bk] retouchiNG miLk diGitaL patti smith quote From just kids, ecco Books


taKeshi wears purple JacKet lanVin beige shirt (worn underneath) dieSel Black Gold scarf SalVaToRe FeRRaGamo red Knit collar iSSeY miYake leather shoulder piece, belt, necKlace stylist’s own on sKin throughout, Shu uemuRa painting liner パープルジャケット ランバン スカーフ サルヴァトーレ フェラガモ 中に着たベージュシャツ ディーゼル ブラック ゴールド レッドニットアクセサリー イッセイ ミヤケ 肩にかけたアクセサリー、ベルト、ネックレス すべてスタイリスト私物

東京 イ ラ ト

Y ik R T o To

WE STILL DREAM OF UNDISCOVERED CORNERS OF THE WORLD. HERE, WE CREATE A SPRING FANTASY OF CHIC ANCESTRY— A TIME-CAPSULE FOR TRIBES OF FUTURE CENTURIES Photography koichiro doi Styling Shun Watanabe

eB


Kentaro wears JacKet Sand scarf (his left) dieSel Black Gold embellished strap (his right) BalmunG belt SalVaToRe FeRRaGamo necKlace YoShiko cReaTion PaRiS ジャケット サンド 左肩にかけたストライプスカーフ ディーゼル ブラック ゴールド 右肩にかけたアクセサリー バルムング ベルト サルヴァトーレ フェラガモ ネックレス ヨシコ クリエーション パリ

Vman 123


sen wears striped vest VeRSace JacKet comme deS GaRçonS homme PluS zippered vest (worn under JacKet) 3.1 PhilliP lim gray scarf (his right) Sand horn necKlace lanVin wallet chain (worn as choKer) Y-3 earring model’s own ストライプジレ ヴェルサーチ ドクロモチーフチェックジャケット コム デ ギャルソン・オム プリュス 下に着たジップアップベスト 3.1 フィリップ リム 右肩にかけたグレースカーフ サンド ブラック角型ネックレス ランバン ネックレスとしたウォレットチェーン ワイスリー イヤリング モデル私物


riKu wears leather JacKet (his left) Sand shirt SalVaToRe FeRRaGamo beaded top 3.1 PhilliP lim scarf PaShma necKlace Qk9 earring YoShiko cReaTion PaRiS belt and rope stylist’s own 左肩に着たレザージャケット サンド ベージュシャツ サルヴァトーレ フェラガモ 中に着たビーズ付きベージュトップ 3.1 フィリップ リム スカーフ パシュマ ネックレス キューケーナイン イヤリング ヨシコ クリエーション パリ ベルト、肩にかけたロープ ともにスタイリスト私物


yuusuKe wears multifloral print shirt Jil SandeR blacK-and-white print shirt (his right) RaG & Bone floral print JacKet (his left) YohJi YamamoTo scarf muGendou necKlaces and earrings stylist’s own 花柄プリントシャツ ジル・サンダー 左肩にかけたジャケット ヨウジヤマモト 右肩にかけたシャツ ラグ アンド ボーン スカーフ むげん堂 ビーズネックレス,イヤリング ともにスタイリスト私物


Kentaro wears beige JacKet (his left) hickeY FReeman striped JacKet, pants, brown horn necKlace lanVin gray cardigan (worn underneath) and brown-and-white scarf Z ZeGna printed scarf chichikaka belt BoTTeGa VeneTa cross choKer and blacK horn necKlace FloaTin’ ベージュジャケット ヒッキー フリーマン ストライプジャケット、パンツ、ホワイト角型ネックレス すべてランバン 下に着たグレーカーディガン,ホワイト×カーキスカーフ ともにジーゼニア レッド×イエロープリントスカーフ チチカカ ベルト ボッテガ・ヴェネタ クロスチョーカー、ブラック角型ネックレス ともにフローティン

maKeup uda (s-14) hair asashi (ota office) models sen (be natural), yuusuKe hirose (toyota office), riKu ootomo (lespro), taKeshi uematsu, Kentaro sawano (barKinstyle) photo assistants taKafumi yamada and masuhiro machida styling assistants tatsuya shimada, soh nemoto, eri taKahashi maKeup assistant tadatoshi horiKoshi hair assistant Jun goto digital operator haruna ishii casting hisae ona


borough boys Brooklyn, Bronx, Queens, and staten, from the Battery to the top of manhattan—the cold hits each one as hard as the next, But these winter coats transcend even the starkest Boundaries of the city Photography David Armstrong styling Jason Farrer

128 VmAn

Keith wears Coat gucci sweater rAF simons Pants Thom browne


AbiAh weArs Fur coAt Les Hommes t-shirt And crown GivencHy by RiccaRdo Tisci shorts THom bRowne boxers (worn underneAth) PoLo RaLPH LauRen All jewelrY cHRome HeaRTs


jonathan wears Coat Dior homme hoodie and snood boris biDJAn sAberi headPieCe beVeL on hair, bumbLe AnD bumbLe Curl ConsCious reaCtivating Mist


from left: AbiAh weArs CoAt Thom Browne sweAter And pAnts DsquareD hAt Chrome hearTs Gloves Boris BiDjan saBeri boots Kris Van assChe mAnuel weArs CoAt, shorts, stoCkinGs, sAndAls GiVenChy By riCCarDo TisCi sweAter sisley Cuff And rinG Chrome hearTs frAGrAnCe GiVenChy very irresistible fresh Attitude


jaMil wears Coat, jaCKet, shorts, Pants comme Des gArรงons homme PLus t-shirt boris biDJAn sAberi all jewelrY beVeL


grooMing KozMo (brYan bantrY inC) Models jonathan Marquez (CliCK nY), abiah hostveldt, jaMil raMirez (red), Keith hernandez, Manuel raMos (request), Paolo roldan (boss Models nY), elliot dePoes (booM ProduCtions inC) Casting roger inniss (booM ProduCtions inC)

Paolo wears jaCKet rAF simons sweater VersAce leggings and harness ruFsKin hat Kris VAn Assche watCh beLL & ross gloves and belt LAnVin

FragranCe giVenchy xerYus rouge


the tales of GenGhis Khan the mongolian conqueror once ruled over the most disparate nations of eurasia, bringing cohesion to otherwise contrasting elements. this is our winter fashion proposition of what the great emperor might wear today. khan lives! Photography Paul Rowland styling lester Garcia

134 VMan


Coat CalVin Klein ColleCtion Fur Cap PoloGeoRGis Knit hat Bless Felt Flowers tiBet aRts & CRafts at aBC CaRPet & hoMe neCKlaCes alexis BittaR belt lanVin


Red sweateR Diesel Blue RoBe Tom ForD Polka-dot sweateR Topman Pants alexanDer m c Queen Hat G-sTar scaRf (wRaPPed aRound Head) roberTo Cavalli scaRf (woRn as sasH) eTro scaRf (woRn as Belt) paul smiTh socks Falke sHoes Cesare paCioTTi


Yellow Cardigan G-staR ribbed sweater (worn underneath) CalVin Klein ColleCtion Fur hat aDRienne lanDau blue plaid hat Paul sMith Charm pin (on hat) susanna Galanis blue Knit hat the elDeR statesMan Fur sCarF ZanDRa RhoDes foR PoloGeoRGis red tassel neCKlaCe Jf & sons red and blaCK sCarF (worn as belt) Paul sMith graY belt (worn underneath) lanVin


Knit bodY suit ViCtoR GleMauD sweater (on shoulder) Raf siMons foR fReD PeRRy plastiC pants Kostas MuRKuDis Fur hat MaRC JaCoBs sCarF etRo gloves the elDeR statesMan Knit hat Diesel belt bag MaRni


purple hoodie y-3 red vest and Felt Flower tiBet aRts & CRafts at aBC CaRPet & hoMe silK pajama pants toM foRD beret GioRGio aRMani gold Chains alexis BittaR gold belt (worn as neCKlaCe) neil BaRRett baCKpaCK and brown belt lanVin red “Fire” pouCh belt WalteR Van BeiRenDonCK brown suede messenger bag Maison MaRtin MaRGiela Fur sCarF (at waist) aDRienne lanDau Fur boots toM foRD


sweater RoBeRto CaValli shirt (tied at waist) CheaP MonDay pants MonCleR GaMMe Bleu hat ViCtoR osBouRne


hat ViCtoR osBouRne Knit hood Bless turtleneCK KRis Van assChe model enrique mirron (Ford nY) photo assistants josh laurits and beatriCe sChleYer stYling assistant riKa watanabe digital teChniCian ramon Fernandez (pier 59 studios) produCtion FoundrY produCtions retouChing babY grand studio Catering green Catering and pier 59 speCial thanKs to pier 59 studios


GREENLAND EMPIRE STAY WARM ANYWHERE—EVEN ON THE GLACIERS OF GREENLAND—IN SOME OF WINTER’S HOTTEST GEAR Photography Klaus Thymann Styling Simon Foxton

THIS PAGE: JACKET PEAK PERFORMANCE PANTS, HAT, BOOTS Y-3 BAG WOOLRICH OPPOSITE PAGE: ALL CLOTHING, HAT, BOOTS D&G

142 VMAN


OPPOSITE PAGE: SWEATER AND SCARF HUGO SKI PANTS AND BOOTS D&G BACKPACK NIKE ACG

MODEL CHRISTIAN HAI NELSON (2PM) PHOTO ASSISTANTS EMMA FLETCHER, MARI-LEEN KIIPLI, MIKI BORGNAES, SOREN STORM MIKKELSEN PRODUCTION GERTH OLSEN SPECIAL THANKS HOTEL-ARCTIC.GL AND GREENLAND.COM

THIS PAGE: ALL CLOTHING AND HAT Y-3 BOOTS D&G


in the latest installment of our ongoing series, Vman eXplores male modeling around the globe With a look at some of the World’s biggest and best agencies

146 vMan


hair and GroominG Juan canSado for m.a.c coSmeTicS, kiehl’S, Ghd and maria marTinez for SeBaSTian and BoBBi Brown phoTo aSSiSTanT ameTS irondo STyliST aSSiSTanTS dani Gonzalez and SuSana del Sol

barcelona, spain sight management studio PHotograPHy xevi MuntanÉ styLing aLberto Murtra Top row, from lefT: Gerard Salla wearS ShirT Levi’s JeanS He by Mango BelT benetton alexander ardid wearS T-ShirT aLexander McQueen JeanS benetton franciSco carrión wearS JeanS JiL sander BelT Loewe aleJandro

GuinoT wearS T-ShirT CoMMe des garçons HoMMe PLus michael GSToeTTner wearS vinTaGe Tank bLow SerGi riera wearS JeanS rePLay BelT dieseL middle row, from lefT: ferran calderón wearS JeanS dieseL BelT sisLey alex olivé wearS vinTaGe Tank HoLaLa ShirT (aT waiST) H&M JeanS iCeberg BelT HerMès aleJandro rodríGuez wearS Tank JoCkey JeanS rePLay red seaL Jiri kalfar wearS ShirT toMMy HiLfiger Thermal BoTTomS H&M chriSTian SanTamaría wearS JeanS He by Mango BelT sisLey oriol elcacho wearS SweaTer dsQuared JeanS sisLey BelT benetton Jon korTaJarena wearS ShirT and JeanS sisLey

BelT dior HoMMe andréS velencoSo wearS JeanS sisLey ShirT (aT waiST) H&M BelT Louis vuitton adrián cardoSo wearS denim JackeT Levi’s panTS dries van noten andy richardSon wearS T-ShirT H&M BoTTom row, from lefT: maTTeo caSnici wearS vinTaGe Tank HoLaLa JeanS H&M anTonio navaS wearS JeanS Maison Martin MargieLa BelT sisLey Joan pedroSa wearS T-ShirT ann deMeuLeMeester JeanS dieseL aiTor maTeo wearS JeanS sisLey BelT Loewe paBlo oTero wearS veST PuLL&bear JeanS He by Mango miGuel iGleSiaS wearS JeanS aLexander McQueen necklace dsQuared BelT arMand basi


beijing, china long teng PHotograPHy viCtoria tang styLing stinger wong from lefT: Jeffery zhenG, xu chen, li xianG, chen man qianG, daniel li, du ShiBo, nan fu lonG, Jerry fu, ken Gao, liu chanG, han xu all cloThinG and ShoeS dior HoMMe S/S 11 hair and GroominG xue SonG (Tony STudio)


cape toWn, south africa boss models PHotograPHy MisHa tayLor styLing CHrisna de bruyn from lefT: pierre khun wearS prinTed Top and vinTaGe waTch annie’s wardrobe vinTaGe ShorTS and SockS STyliST’S own eric BeSTer wearS ShirT stiaan Louw panTS and vinTaGe GlaSSeS annie’s wardrobe SneakerS nike - astore Tommy morake wearS ShirT (aT waiST) and panTS stiaan Louw ryan vieTri wearS ShirT stiaan Louw SkirT, Silver necklace, rinG annie’s wardrobe richard BoilTer wearS JeanS stiaan Louw khano wearS ShirT darkie panTS, haT, waTch annie’s wardrobe Jovan JackSon wearS cafTan dreSS annie’s wardrobe SneakerS nike - astore all SandalS and addiTional Jewelry from african markeT GroominG Joanna BuTT (GloSS arTiST manaGemenT) liGhTinG equipmenT kineTic STudio diGiTal BroTherS

copenhagen, denmark scoop PHotograPHy bo egestrØM styLing wiktor Hansson from lefT: axel BrorSon wearS Tank and ShorTS Jean PHiLLiP SweaTer (aT waiST) niCoLai d’ètoiLes alBerT krarup wearS JackeT, T-ShirT, ShorTS Jean PHiLLiP circular pendanT necklace bJØrg JeweLLery Black rope necklace sHaMbaLLa chriSTian Brylle wearS ShorTS Henrik vibskov SweaTer (aT waiST) Jean PHiLLiP necklace hiS own SeBaSTian lund wearS ShirT niCoLai d’ètoiLes panTS and Scarf (aT waiST) Jean PHiLLiP necklaceS georg Jensen JeSper lund wearS cardiGan and Tank Jean PHiLLiP ShorTS niCoLai d’ètoiLes maThiaS lauridSen wearS SweaTerS woodwood panTS Jean PHiLLiP GroominG edward cruz and marianne JenSen STyliST aSSiSTanTS william Graper and laSSe nord GroominG aSSiSTanT may neSS (Scoop arTiST)


copenhagen, denmark 2PM PHotograPHy krzystoff HerHoLdt styLing bJarne Lindgren from lefT: alexander JohanSSon wearS SuiT tiger of sweden ShirT and Tie Mads nØrgaard Timmi radicke wearS SuiT and ShirT bruuns bazaar Joakim clauSen wearS SuiT Mads nØrgaard ShirT bruuns bazaar Tie fiLiPPa k chriSTopher SylveST wearS SuiT fiLiPPa k ShirT Mads nØrgaard chriSTian hald wearS SuiT tiger of sweden ShirT Hugo boss louiSe pederSen wearS JackeT Hugo boss SkirT tiger of sweden adrain BoSch wearS SuiT Mads nØrgaard ShirT fiLiPPa k Tie tiger of sweden JonaS kloch wearS SuiT and Tie tiger of sweden JakoB hyBholdT wearS SuiT Hugo boss ShirT tiger of sweden Tie fiLiPPa k river delfin wearS SuiT souLLand ShirT bruuns bazaar JameS SmiTh wearS SuiT Mads nØrgaard ShirT tiger of sweden ceSar caSier wearS SuiT bruuns bazaar ShirT tiger of sweden rali Bara wearS SuiT, ShirT, Tie bruuns bazaar hair laSSe pederSen GroominG monika GrenSTeen producTion 2pm arT direcTor peTer damGaard SeT deSiGn peTer damGaard and Sarah STenfeldT caSTinG peTer damGaard and Thue GuldSTrand

rio de janeiro, brazil 40 graus PHotograPHy viCente de PauLo styLing feLiPe veLoso Top row, from lefT: Junior arruda, felipe aniBal, william prazereS, david chalouB, Savane Gonzalez, paulo leroy, ricardo fiGueiredo, paBlo moraiS, GaBriel heckler, Bernardo velaSco, daniel BroiTman BoTTom row, from lefT: ramon durr, leonardo froSi, weder wilham, pedro luiz, raphael lacchine GroominG romulo floreS caSTinG SerGio maTToS


kingston, jamaica saint international PHotograPHy wiLLiaM riCHards styLing dexter HuxtabLe BoTTom row, from lefT: caSmar JameS, kimali morGan, Brad allen, orlando lopez Top row, from lefT: rori miTchell, rainer Boucard, wayne Taylor, creinG wiTTinGham all cloThinG sPokes aPPareL all ShoeS STyliST’S own GroominG emily newland producer deiwGhT peTerS producTion coordinaTorS andrew mullinGS and andre cowan producTion aSSiSTanT ava campBell videoGrapher and producTion aSSiSTanT carlinGTon SilBurn locaTion devon houSe manSion, kinGSTon, Jamaica locaTion manaGer andre reid


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