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hello

v carry on

This year we’ve been having a ball with some of the biggest names in pop. And while we love these stars dearly, we also want to ofer something diferent for fall. It is, after all, the season of returns. Back to school we go with the latest autumnal collections, back to reality now that summer has faded from the horizon. Leave it to Mario Testino to come in and reset the clock, with an extensive 46-page shoot featuring eight of the hottest faces in fashion. Donning the most important pieces of the season, this model mania includes a sexy cast in chic swimsuits, impressive outerwear...and not much else. Amidst a minimalist landscape, their rock-hard bodies—and the clothes that adorn them—really stand out. Consider this your insider playbook to Fall fashion. Elsewhere in the issue, we continue to focus on the essential people and new launches to know about now—including Victoire de Castellane’s exquisite new collection for Dior Fine Jewelry, based on the house’s storied couture fnery. Plus meet the women making waves in music, comedy, and flm. Cleanse your color palette with a stark white bag. Take a tour of must-see exhibitions, from Texas to Tokyo. As is always the case, V are here to keep you entertained and informed! Enjoy the issue, and we hope it serves as an inspiration for the cooler days ahead. ms v

Cover photography mario testino fashion sarajane hoare JOAN WEARS JEANS ChaneL AURELIEN WEARS SWIMSUIT emporio armani EMILY WEARS COAT gUCCi SEAN WEARS SWIMSUIT emporio armani BRIDGET WEARS SWIMSUIT emporio armani MATT WEARS JACKET tom forD UNDERWEAR CaLvin KLein AMANDA WEARS COAT DoLCe & gaBBana CLARK WEARS SWIMSUIT rUfsKin 20 V MAGAZINE


Louis Vuitton epi petite Malle in orange ($4,400, 866.VUitton or loUisVUitton.coM) photography danieL Lindh fashion mia soLkin


step to it

Editor-in-ChiEF / CrEativE dirECtor Stephen Gan Editor Sarah Cristobal SEnior Editor Patrik Sandberg Managing dirECtor Steven Chaiken art dirECtor Cian Browne CrEativE SErviCES dirECtor Jennifer Rosenblum Photo & bookingS Editor Spencer Morgan Taylor dESign Alexa Vignoles Alexander McWhirter onlinE Editor Natasha Stagg MarkEt EditorS Michael Gleeson Mia Solkin FaShion aSSoCiatE Julian Antetomaso CaSting Samuel Ellis Scheinman Contributing FaShion EditorS Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele Melanie Ward Nicola Formichetti Joe McKenna Jane How Panos Yiapanis Beat Bolliger Olivier Rizzo Clare Richardson Jacob K Andrew Richardson Jonathan Kaye Tom Van Dorpe SEnior FaShion Editor Jay Massacret Contributing EditorS / EntErtainMEnt Greg Krelenstein Kate Branch / Starworks Editor-at-largE Derek Blasberg Contributing EditorS Kevin McGarry T. Cole Rachel Nicole Catanese CoPy EditorS Jeremy Price Traci Parks aSSoCiatE PubliShEr Jorge Garcia jgarcia@vmagazine.com advErtiSing ManagEr Vicky Benites vbenites@vmagazine.com 646.747.4545 advErtiSing oFFiCE, italy and SwitzErland Magazine International / Luciano Bernardini de Pace +39.02.76.4581 magazineinternational.it advErtiSing rEPrESEntativE Jef Greif 212.213.1155 advErtiSing rEPrESEntativE, hoME and dESign Michael Colangelo GLM Communications, mcolangelo@glmreps.com advErtiSing aSSiStant Sacha Breitman SPECial ProjECtS Jennifer Hartley CoMMuniCationS Samantha Kain / Purple PR 212.858.9888 diStribution David Renard rESEarCh Editor Lela Nargi ProduCtion dirECtor Melissa Scragg ProduCtion aSSoCiatE Gina Wang FinanCial CoMPtrollEr Sooraya Pariag aSSiStant CoMPtrollEr Ivana Williams aSSiStant to thE Editor-in-ChiEF William Defebaugh adMiniStrativE aSSiStant Wyatt Allgeier ConSulting CrEativE / dESign dirECtion Greg Foley intErnS Robyn Arteaga Shayan Asadi Nicola Bernardini de Pace Carolyn Binder David Cerami Ava Chambers Zoe Chodosh Eliana Epstein Madison Finley Patrick Galizio Amanda Garcia Ronnie Hartleben Bree Jackson Christina Kwiek Amanda Lang Ian Monroe Nikki Refghi Hussain Salahuddin

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Photography Daniel Lindh Fashion Mia Solkin

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CONTRIBUTORS

wrap it up

V90 Mario Testino Inez & Vinoodh Sarajane Hoare Chad Pitman Maryam Malakpour Ulysse Frechelin Daniel Lindh Robin Broadbent Ben Lamberty Stella Greenspan Nicholas Alan Cope Therese Aldgård Mark Jacobs Marcus Holmlund Ashley Simpson Lauren Sherman Kristin Tice Studeman

Special thankS Art Partner Giovanni Testino Amber Olson Marianne Tesler Candice Marks Jeff Stalnaker Lauren Lanier Alexis Costa Jonathan Kemmis Betty Alex Cock Home Agency Christine Lavigne Lisa Weatherby Danielle Palma Virginie Laguens Grâce Salemme ArtList Michael Quinn Mathilde Wacogne D+V Lucy Kay Jed Root Kelly Penford India Gentile Miranda Neri Management Artists Francesco Savi Bo Zhang CXA Jordan Nystrom See Management Andrew Gethins Chelsea Maloney Walter Schupfer Management Delphine Del Val Natasha Stanglmayr Art Department Jess Simon Artists by Timothy Priano FORD Natalie Smith Sam Doerfler Julien Miachon-Hobson IMG Ivan Bart Jennifer Ramey Maja Chiesi Mina White Next One.1 Allen Osborne VNY Lana Winters Tomczak Wilhelmina Kendall Werts Jenelle Phillip RND Retouched, Hamburg Rich Imaging Photopia Studio, Miami Christian Kolm ROOT Studios Lightbox Studios, Los Angeles Shio Studio Production Berlin Björn Frederic Gerling Philip Bode Sophie Meister Ksenia Harwood

V MAGAZINE 29


and keep on shining 32 AROUND THE WORLD Roam around the world with Prada, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Ferragamo as they host celebrations that merit changing time zones

36 THE LOOKS THAT LAUNCHED A THOUSAND COLLECTIONS From Dior’s New Look to Donna Karan’s seven easy pieces and beyond—every megawatt designer had to start somewhere. Revisit the seeds that blossomed into some of fashion’s most storied careers 38 V GIRLS Meet today’s hottest musicians, models, and movie stars, all poised to be the next big muses: Tinashe, Nostalghia, Jenny Slate, Dylan Penn, and Liana Liberato 46 NEWS Get up to speed on everything from Armani’s new sneaker to Versace’s must-have bag, along with the art, music, and campaigns to catch now 48 ALTERNATE STATE As his survey exhibition at Dallas Contemporary draws to a close and he prepares to release a new retrospective monograph, artist Richard Phillips explains how looking back can move one forward 50 THE WHITE STUFF Take it from Marc Jacobs, Armani, Proenza Schouler, and Dior: the best way to jumpstart fall is with a blank slate 52 JUST THE HITS Trim the excess with a cold, hard look at the critical pieces to covet this fall 58 SMEAR CAMPAIGN When it comes to choosing colors for your eyes and nails, the top beauty brands agree that it’s cool, dark hues that complement the season best 62 LESS IS (IN THIS CASE) MORE BY MARIO TESTINO Join Mario Testino and eight of the industry’s hottest supermodels for a sexy and sleek fashion experience that will simplify your view of the season’s singular sensations 108 SETTING THE BAR BY ULYSSE FRECHELIN Get bedazzled by Victoire de Castellane’s new fine jewelry collection for Dior, inspired by the house’s equally exquisite archival couture gowns 112 LAST WORD BLASBERG In honor of their new Frame denim collaboration, image makers and creative cohorts Inez & Vinoodh sit down with our editor-at-large to discuss their jean story

30 V MAGAZINE

Photography Daniel Lindh Fashion Mia Solkin Prop stylist Michele Faro (Art Department) Photo assistants Jay Barbanel and George Andreadis Production Bo Zhang (Management Artists) Location ROOT Studios

table of contents


Saint Laurent by Hedi SLimane leather boots ($1,145, 212.980.2970)


AROUND THE WORLD in a new york minute

global glitterati descend on casa lever to fÊte the launch of ferragamo’s fiamma handbag Top row from left: Langley Fox Hemingway, Vincent Ottomanelli, Mariel Hemingway Second row from left: Garrett Nef, Anne V., Theodora Richards, Martha Hunt, Jessica Hart Third row from left: Lily Aldridge, Neville Wakefeld Fourth row from left: Karolina Kurkova, James Ferragamo, Ferruccio Ferragamo, Louisa Gummer

lonDon calling

prada and harrods celebrate the pradasphere exhibition with an intimate gathering at andrÉ balazs’s newly christened chiltern firehouse Top row from left: Robin Scott Lawson, Suki Waterhouse Second row from left: Jay Jopling, Noel Gallagher, Gwendoline Christie, DJ Steve Mackey Third row from left: André Balazs, Elizabeth Saltzman, Cara Delevingne, Jack Guinness Fourth row from left: Elektra Kilbey, Gala Gordon, Miranda Kilbey, Laura Carmichael Fifth row from left: Tara Ferry, Bryan Ferry

cruising to Dubai

karl lagerfeld lured the fashion flock to the island of dubai for an impressive runway show featuring 83 looks and a private concert by janelle monÁe Clockwise from left: Ah Sung Ko, Elisa Sednaoui, Dakota Fanning, Anna Mouglalis, Janelle Monáe, Princess Amira Al Faweel, Vanessa Paradis, Archie David Kao, Zhou Xun, Tilda Swinton, Freida Pinto, Sandro Kopp

maDe in monaco

Clockwise from left: Rihanna, Allison Williams, Leelee Sobieski, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Nicola Peltz, Margot Robbie, Marion Cotillard, Sidney Toledano, Raf Simons, Helena Christensen

Top row from left: Gaia Repossi, Jennifer Connelly, Courtney Davis, Mackenzie Davis Second row from left: Charlotte Gainsbourg, Nicolas Ghesquière, Brit Marling, Brigitte Burke, Michael Burke, Bae Doona Third row from left: Rinko Kikuchi, Ziyi Zhang, Prince Albert II of Monaco, Princess Charlene of Monaco, Bernard Arnault, Hélène Arnault

with the manhattan skyline as his backdrop and french silk scarves as his inspiration, dior’s raf simons perfectly tied together elegant americana and parisian chic at the brooklyn navy courtyard

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nicolas ghesquiÈre gets the royal treatment as he shows his first cruise collection for louis vuitton on the palace grounds

Clockwise from top: Johnnie Shand Kydd/courtesy of Prada; courtesy Chanel; courtesy Louis Vuitton; BFAnyc.com/courtesy Dior; Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com/courtesy Ferragamo

brooklyn bounD


The Lo o k s T h aT Launc hed a Th o u sa nd c o L L ecTi ons From christian dior’s new look to halston’s pillbox hat, we present the unForgettable signatures that made stars out oF these designers

coco chaneL’s gray Jersey Quilted bags and pearls aside, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s use of gray jersey to make hip-grazing cardigans, as well as dresses and skirts was revolutionary in its day. Before Chanel, the cozy material was reserved for men’s underwear and sailor suits.

text Lauren sherman

Diane von FurstenBerg’s WraP Dress The ultimate waist whittler, DVF’s jersey wrap dress debuted in 1974. Two years later, she had already sold over a million units of the style, and she continues to produce new versions each season. The piece is so iconic, in fact, that it recently earned the designer a retrospective at LACMA, on the occasion of its fortieth anniversary.

Donna Karan’s seven easy Pieces Karan, who spent her formative years at Anne Klein, launched her namesake collection in 1985 with seven mix-and-match separates in cashmere and jersey. The body suit served as the foundation piece.

haLston’s PiLLBox hat Before he dressed Studio 54, Roy Halston Frowick was a milliner, and his pillbox hat was head and shoulders above the rest. Jacqueline Kennedy famously wore one when her husband was sworn into ofce, in 1961, and the endorsement boosted Halston’s business immensely. Five years later, he eschewed hats for hot pants having transitioned to ready-to-wear.

yves saint Laurent’s traPeze Dress Saint Laurent has many signatures. But his frst was the trapeze dress, which he designed in 1958 for the House of Dior. He was ousted by his employers shortly after, but the style stuck. 36 V MAGAZINE

raLPh Lauren’s ties He might be associated with everything from rugged denim to English manor dressing, but Ralph Lauren launched Polo in 1967 with a small range of preppy, colorful ties.

christian Dior’s neW LooK In 1947, the legendary couturier presented an outft for the ages: a jacket with a nipped-in waist and a full midi skirt. Then Harper’s Bazaar editor in chief Carmel Snow dubbed it the New Look. Indeed, the silhouette would dictate women’s fashion throughout the 1950s.

Proenza schouLer’s Bustier toP Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez incorporated the lingerie-inspired look into their frst major collection, shown in the fall of 2003. Rendered in silver lamé, it became an instant hit. More than a decade into Proenza Schouler’s existence, the duo still fnds ways to present it in new and exciting ways.

Courtesy Chanel; courtesy Donna Karan; © Association Willy Maywald/Adagp, Paris 2014/ courtesy Dior; courtesy Proenza Schouler; © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis (Lauren); © Hank Walker/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images (Halston); courtesy DVF; courtesy Norma Kamali; © AP Photo (YSL)

norma KamaLi’s sLeePing Bag coat Kamali started creating sleek looks out of parachute silk early on in her career, but it was the sleeping bag coat, a collared shawl wrap style, that proved a pufer doesn’t have to be unfattering.


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pHotograpHy cHad pitMan fasHion MaryaM Malakpour

tina s he

blessed with the voice, moves, and looks of a superstar, the breakout r&b singer is here to remind us of what pop used to be and show us where she’s taking it next Tinashe (pronounced tee-NAH-shay) somehow always knew that she’d be in show business. “I grew up dancing, since I was four. Ballet, tap, and jazz evolved into hip-hop, lyrical, and modern. I did it all,” says the 21-year-old Los Angeles–based singer-songwriter, who has worked as an actress, model, and member of girl-group the Stunners. “Part of the reason I fell in love with dance so early was because of people like Janet Jackson, Michael Jackson, and Britney Spears. When they would dance onstage and in their videos, that was huge for me. I lived for that.” Look no further than her choreography-laden video “2 On” (featuring ScHoolBoy Q) for proof of her devotion to 38 v MagaZine

dance. “People have been slacking in the past fve or ten can do it and it will add to myself as an entertainer. If years when it comes to performance,” she says. “Dance I’m into something that doesn’t fit the label’s idea of has always just been an extension of music for me. It’s me, then fuck it. Some artists get so restricted by their own doing.” about putting my music into motion. It’s just another dimension that I tap into with my music that not many For her debut album, Aquarius, coming out this fall, artists do anymore.” Tinashe is enlisting a hearty roster of contributors: Since she broke onto the scene with two short mix- Future, Stargate, A$AP Rocky, DJ Mustard, ScHoolBoy tapes, in 2012, she’s made it her cause to differentiate Q, Boi-1da, Jasper, and Detail are all confrmed to lend herself from the thriving progressive R&B crowd, though their rhymes and beats to the project. The petite fredoing so hasn’t been the easiest feat. She’s usually lumped cracker is confdent she can bring her indie appeal to the in either with a group of Aaliyah revivers or with indie masses and still be genuine. “I think RCA trusted me so acts like Kelela, even though she borrows heavily from much because of the fact they knew I already came with the worlds of rock, pop, and crunk. “Comparisons to other a fan base that I grew myself online, recording things in artists can be frustrating, because not only does it put my room, I grew from social media. I realized early on you in a box, but it hinders the listeners’ own creativ- that the blogs were what was going to pop me of. They ity,” she explains. “Of course there are always similari- know what I have going is established and valuable and ties between artists like myself and Jhené Aiko, but that that I’m not a label-made product.” Already buzzed-about doesn’t mean we’re the same because we exist in a similar in the R&B sphere, the album will be her call to arms. genre. If everybody’s making quality shit, then there’s “It’s sort of like I’m shouting, ‘I’m a force to be reckoned room for everybody.” with, this shit’s legit, take me seriously, pay attention, She’s also not about the package deal. “The difference this is not an online mixtape!’” The production may be with me, too, is my attitude. I don’t feel like I take every- enhanced this time around, but she guarantees it’s still thing so seriously. I take my craft seriously, of course, but the real deal. Marcus HolMlund I don’t feel the need to always play a certain character or a certain part or persona,” she says. “I’m not going to tinashe in los angeles, april 2014 cut something out of my life because it’s not ‘my image.’ JaCKet eMporio arMani neCKlaCe bulgari Dress guess I want to be open enough that if I love something I aquarius is available this fall on rCa


d yl a n penn

The former pizza delivery girl wiTh formidable hollywood genes is charTing her own course, one shooT aT a Time Dylan Penn arrives on set wearing her everyday uniform of Chuck Taylors and black-on-black skinny cords with a James Perse tank. “I feel like this sometimes comes of as I don’t give a shit, which is so not the case,” says the 23-year-old, who in only a few years has made a name for herself as a model, shooting for the likes of GQ and Vogue Italia. “I just like to be comfortable. I wish I felt comfortable in a sundress, but I just don’t.” The 5´ 7˝ gene-blessed ofspring of actors Sean Penn and Robin Wright is negotiating the spotlight after growing up away from Hollywood, in idyllic Marin County, outside of San Francisco. An aspiring screenwriter, whose end goal is to write and direct her own flm, Penn moved to Los Angeles when she was 18 and found her way in front of the camera after dropping out of flm school. After being fnancially cut of by her parents (“They have always been good at instilling that you’re responsible for your own shit”), she worked several jobs, including as a waitress, hostess, and freelance screenplay editor. “And then I started delivering pizzas, and that was what led me into modeling, because I just hated it,” she says, noting that she took extensive notes on the experience, including the occasions when she was mistaken for a stripper. “I was kind of fattered, in a way? And then I had to keep explaining that I was delivering pizza.”

dress saint laurent by hedi slimane bracelet and watch Penn’s own

DT Model Management

v girls


After six months of serving up pies to UCLA students and upper-Wilshire luxury apartment houses (“I’m glad I did it, and I would never take the experience back”), Penn signed with an agency, to relieve the pressure of making ends meet. She’s a natural in front of the camera, efortlessly turning from Northern Californian cool girl into self-possessed bombshell and back again. “I like doing the editorial stuf,” she says, “because it’s nice to do something that’s more me. But modeling for brands and the things to make money...I guess I don’t really like being the mannequin. It’s a very strange concept.” She declined an ofer to appear in Playboy, but received much attention recently for a decidedly sultry shoot with photographer Tony Duran. “I’ve always been extremely comfortable in my body, and I think that comes from how I grew up. It sounds so cheesy, but it was never about what you look like on the outside, it was about what you really give,” she says. “It’s weird because I know it doesn’t really make sense that I’m doing all of these things that force me to be in the spotlight when I’m so uncomfortable with it in some respects.” Recently Penn has tried her hand at acting, she will be making her debut in the horror movie Condemned, in which she plays Maya, a naive runaway who lives in a dilapidated building and becomes the heroine of the flm. “I resisted acting for a long time because I grew up around it, and it wasn’t something that was interesting to me,” says Penn. “I didn’t want to follow behind my parents in that way, I knew I wanted to be in flm, but just behind the camera.” Now she’s viewing the world through her own lens. “Every shoot that I have, I think of it as a diferent place to observe and take notes on people,” she says. “I love watching people. Especially in the fashion world, where people are so weird, in great ways sometimes and the worst ways other times. I love going to shoots, because it’s a social experiment to just watch.” Mark Jacobs dylan penn in los angeles, april 2014

JaCKeT and panTs VErsacE Bra kIkI DE MoNTParNassE


v girls

nos talg hia

from her bold look to her beguiling voice and ethereal goth-pop ballads, ciscandra nostalghia is making a habit (and a career) of following where her spirit takes her For 25-year-old singer-songwriter Ciscandra Nostalghia, getting kicked out of her conservative Russian and Persian parents’ home was “one of the greatest things” that could have happened. “It put me in a place of isolation, and I didn’t really have anything to rely on,” says the Los Angeles–based artist. “And when you don’t have anything to rely on, there is no sense of safety.” Ever the free spirit, Nostalghia moved into a piano room on her former university’s campus. “I was just in there, teaching myself how to play, for months,” she explains, adding that she picked up harp and guitar—and wrote her frst gloom-swathed ballads—during those transformative days. The result of her immersive self-training is a brand of cinematic goth-pop that is as strangely atmospheric (she’s garnered more than a few Kate Bush and Björk comparisons) as it is haunting. Nostalghia dropped out of school (“One of the teachers I was really excited about told me I was too passionate for my own good, and I was like, Okay, I gotta get out of here”) and found a co-musician, Roy Gnan, after “posting a bitchy ad on Craigslist.” Now the two, along with touring cellist Adele Stein, perform as an avant garde trio, under Nostalghia’s name. Their art-rock shows—they opened for 30 Seconds to Mars on their last tour—have quickly attracted the masses. “It’s the three of us onstage and I’m going all out the entire time,” says Nostalghia, who cites Nirvana, Future Islands, and Death Grips as some of her favorite bands. “The beauty of playing live is, not only are you transforming an audience, but the audience is transforming you. So you leave the stage a new person and hopefully that new person is better—I guess it doesn’t matter, better, worse—but hopefully that new person is someone that you like. It’s healing for me, for sure. And people are perceptive, even if they don’t think that they are. Subconsciously they can sense when someone is giving you their gut.” The group has also released its frst album, Chrysalis, which opens with a moodily, almost ceremonially subdued vocal saunter, and another release is already in the works. “I’m going to constantly change,” says Nostalghia. “Because status is fucking boring and there’s enough of that in this world.” Ashley simpson

ciscandra nostalghia in los angeles, april 2014 cloaK BlUmARine dress 3.1 phillip lim shoes GiUseppe ZAnoTTi DesiGn tights wolfoRD choKer AleXis BiTTAR JeWelrY nostalghia’s oWn chrYsalis is out noW from 110 records


je n n y s l at e

with an ingenious new film that won raves at sundance, underground comedy star jenny slate trades in her guest spots and improv gigs for a shot at the big time Gilda Radner had The Second City. Amy Poehler, the Upright Citizen’s Brigade. Jenny Slate, meanwhile, ruled Riff. It was there, after attending Columbia University, that the Massachusetts native found an outlet for her sincere and hilariously crude brand of humor. With little training save for a few suspect $300 acting classes (“It’s pretty important to keep in mind when those teachers are telling you to change that a lot of them don’t actually have acting jobs”), she was soon drawing a crowd to the now-defunct East Village dive for a two-person show featuring her and best friend Gabe Liedman. That moment in time proved to be one of those divine comedy interventions, for among her clique were Aziz Ansari, Mike Birbiglia, and Nick Kroll. “It was really special,” says Slate. “I didn’t know anything about stand-up, so I didn’t know that what we were doing was alternative. We just got up on stage and starting talking about each other. The response was great.” Aside from fnding her comedic footing, the Riff routines also landed Slate a manager, one who would go on to book her for a recurring role on HBO cult hit Bored to Death (where Jason Schwartzman hooked her up with his agent) and a short-lived stint as a cast member on Saturday Night Live. She was fred, famously, for dropping an on-air F-bomb, but it wasn’t long before she was back on her feet. (“It was kind of like a birthing process for me,” she says of the experience. “I’m really glad that I was there, and I’m really more glad that I was only there for a year.”) Lena Dunham heard what happened and wrote her into an episode of Girls, and Kroll immediately asked her to costar in the pilot for the Kroll Show, which has since blossomed into a Comedy Central sensation. Anyone who hasn’t seen their faux-reality sketch PubLIZity, about two hapless publicists named Liz, is seriouslizly missing out. In June, theatergoers got to experience Slate in top form, as the lead in Gillian Robespierre’s indie comedy Obvious Child. (The writer-director wrote the lead for Slate after witnessing her act at Riff.) Adapted from a 2009 short, the flm, which came to fruition with the help of a Kickstarter campaign, follows Slate as Donna Stern, a sweet Brooklyn-based comic whose post-breakup drunken exploits result in a trip to the abortion clinic on Valentine’s Day. Sounds hilarious, right? Trust us, it is. The material is deftly handled by Slate and her costars, Jake Lacy, Gaby Hofmann, and of course her BFF, Gabe. “It’s important to say that this is not an agenda movie in any way. But it is a movie that tells a story that just hasn’t been told,” says Slate of Obvious Child, which was made in just 18 days. “Sometimes I’ll think about that, especially when two weeks go by and I’m like, Jesus Christ, I’ve just begun cleaning my sock drawer! We got so much done.” sarah cristobal Jenny slate in los angeles, may 2014 DRess robErto caValli Rings rEPossi eaRRing Maria blacK obvious chilD is in theateRs now


L I AN A LIBERAT O

She grew up in the Shadow of the hollywood Sign, and now ingenue liana liberato iS ready to tackle any role, no matter how big or Small

At 10 years old, Liana Liberato landed the cover of The New York Times Magazine in a story about the famous Oakwood apartments, a housing complex on the other side of the Hollywood Hills recognized for incubating young stars like Kirsten Dunst, Hilary Duf, Josh Hutcherson, and Jennifer Love Hewitt. “I was such a little monkey back then,” she says of her former stomping grounds, with a laugh. “Of course [at the time] I was just like, ‘Wow, that’s awesome,’ and then went to climb a tree or something. But now I realize how important that was.” While the Galveston, Texas, native may possess a classic Hollywood teen look, she has proven to be quite adroit at leaping from Teen Choice barrel curls to serious intensity, frst making a name for herself, at 14, as the target of an online predator in the 2010 Catfsh-esque movie Trust. Directed by Friends alumnus David Schwimmer, and costarring Clive Owen, Catherine Keener, and Viola Davis, Trust “was huge for me,” says Liberato. “It got me into a lot of doors that I couldn’t get into before. But every day I still have to prove myself to people, which I’m fne with, because I like proving it to myself as well.” Now 18 and living on her own for the frst time, the up-and-comer is continuing to prove her chops, in the Nicholas Sparks adaptation of The Best of Me, as well as in Dear Eleanor, a family movie set in the 1960s about two girls who travel from California to New York to meet Eleanor Roosevelt. But Liberato says that her part as Kim, Chloë Moretz’s best friend in the young adult drama If I Stay—a life-or-death weeper directed by R.J. Cutler, who is known for documentaries The September Issue and The War Room—is the frst role in a long time that has scared her. And that’s a good thing. “Michelle Williams is my idol. She’s so brave. I few out to New York a couple of weeks ago specifcally to see her in Cabaret. I just love her. I defnitely want to follow down her path,” Liberato says. “I read in an interview that she turned down My Week With Marilyn so many times because she didn’t know if she could do it. And then she just did it. I admire that. I would never want to hide from a challenge. That’s not a way to live life.” Mark Jacobs

LIANA LIBERATO IN LOs ANgELEs, mAy 2014 DREss AND NECKLACE cHaNEL TIgHTs WoLForD RINg LIZZIE MaNDLEr If I sTAy Is IN THEATERs AugusT 22

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Makeup Kirin Bhatty (Starworks Artists) Hair Dennis Gots (Jed Root Inc.) Manicure Whitney Gibson using Chanel Photo assistants Alex Gay, Brad Liber, Chris Moore Stylist assistant Catlin Myers Equipment rental Quixote Retouching Velem Location Mack Sennett Studios, Los Angeles Catering Food+Lab

v girls


PRODUCTION, MEET CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHER: ANTOI N E VE RGLAS MODEL: SPENCER [ONE.1] MAKEUP: DONNA F [CHANEL] HAIR: DAVID COTTEBLANCHE [RED MARKET] STYLIST: BRANDY [NEXT]

SPLASH LI G HT.CO M


v

n e w s liberty & genetic for all

After years as a cover girl with universal appeal, raven-haired beauty Liberty Ross is stepping up her fashion prowess. This August marks her frst foray as a designer, having partnered with GENETIC to create a six-piece capsule collection based on her diverse upbringing. “My life has always been split between London and Los Angeles, and the thread between both in terms of fashion has been denim,” says Ross. “I love it. To combine my life in L.A., growing up in a roller rink (my parents’ club) in the ’80s and then moving to Portobello Road, and the London grunge of the ’90s, this collaboration is an expression of all those infuences.”

Genetic x liberty roSS ($240–$600, available sTarTing augusT 22 aT neT-a-porTer.com)

fringe benefits

If you think about it, there is no greater accessory for a woman than her handbag. The entire contents of her day-to-night dealings lie within its expensive suede and nappa leather folds, and aside from being a trusty accessory, it is also one that always fits—even if those appointments with your pilates instructor are few and far between. For these reasons and more, purchasing a new purse is an exercise not to be taken lightly. Never one to shy away from being fashionably forward, Donatella Versace has designed a spectacular statement bag for all of her like-minded devotees. With its gold studding, Medusa-adorned hardware, and elegant shape, the F. Signature (the “F” stands for “Fringe” you know) is the designer’s answer to what to carry this fall. The limited-edition, look-at-me stunner comes in shades of blue, black, white, and fuchsia, and has adjustable straps, making it easy to sling over your shoulder whatever the occasion.

verSace limiTed ediTion F. signaTure bag ($2,950, aT selecT versace bouTiques, 888.721.7219)

back to the future

GiorGio armani sneakers ($525, armani.com) PhotoGraPhy thereSe aldGård

calvin klein JeanS The re-issue projecT ($106–$406, available sTarTing july 17 aT myTheresa.com)

Clockwise from top left: Terry Tsiolis/courtesy GENETIC; courtesy Versace; Michael Avedon/courtesy CK Jeans

sprint in style

A sneaker that looks like a running shoe but is ready for the runway? Cue Giorgio Armani’s new RUN project, a collection of men’s and women’s kicks that incorporates footwear technology typically reserved for top track athletes with the high-design stamp of the esteemed Italian fashion house. The capsule collection features four diferent pairs of sneaks, made up of luxe materials, like patent leather, crocodile, pony skin, and suede. While the lightweight construction is perfect for dashing from show to show, the shock absorbing sole and grooved tread is more Usain Bolt than Anna Dello Russo. On your mark, get set, go!

Who could forget the iconic ad campaigns featuring Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg wearing nothing but their Calvins? Those famous images from the ’90s, lensed by Herb Ritts, helped propel young model Moss and then-rapper Wahlberg to stardom. This July, the American sportswear label has decided to bring back the Moss factor with a new star, Kate’s younger half-sister, Lottie. The 16-year-old wears nine diferent Calvin Klein Jean archival styles for the Re-Issue Project (launched in partnership with mytheresa.com), modeling them for another new-generation talent, photographer Michael Avedon. (Michael’s grandfather, the incomparable Richard Avedon, also has a storied history with the brand: he snapped the infamous portraits of a young Brooke Shields sporting the original high-waisted CK skinny jean.) With the ’90s resurgence alive and well in the current fashion cycle, we imagine these “new classics,” such as the tapered boyfriend jean and denim jackets (in a cool stone wash, no less) and logo-fed “CK” tees and sweatshirts, will go quickly. Looking as hot as a Moss not guaranteed.


V-BUY

v news

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Jean-Paul Goude, Waltzer, Paris, 2013

big in japan

When it comes to crossing disciplines in the realm of art, perhaps no fgure has done so with more imagination than Jean-Paul Goude, who’s managed to wow spectators since the 1970s through photography, illustration, art direction, design, and hybrid artworks. In the spirit of Goude’s knack for invention, curator Hélène Kelmachter has mounted a group exhibition called Image-Makers, at Tokyo’s 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, featuring similarly brilliant thinkers whose work defes easy categorization. Robert Wilson’s video portraits are shown alongside David Lynch’s lithographs, Noritaka Tatehana’s shoe sculptures, and Photographer Hal’s vibrantly colorful (you guessed it!) photographs.

For Goude’s part, he’s teamed up with composer Jun Miyake on a performance piece described by Kelmachter as “a total work of art,” and will also show Subway Installation (a flm that reproduces department store advertisements inside a Parisian subway), the Maternity Dress installation, the photo collage Cut-Up EKTA, and an assortment of other mixed-media drawings and artworks. The show is “a vision of the world,” says Kelmachter, “a laboratory of reality, an expression of life rich in diversity, a bridge between creativity and everyday life.”

image-makers is on view through october 5

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xymox returns

Formed in the Netherlands back in 1983, Xymox (formerly Clan of Xymox) would eventually become one of the most deeply influential synth-pop acts to emerge from that fertile decade. The band’s debut EP—the five-track masterpiece, Subsequent Pleasures—has long been considered a kind of gothy holy grail for record collectors, given that only 500 vinyl copies were ever produced. Thankfully the fine folks at Captured Tracks are reissuing this lost classic, complete with never-before-seen photos of the band as well as liner notes courtesy of founding members Ronny Moorings and Anka Wolbert. Now lovingly remastered, the ephemeral darkwave of “Muscoviet Musquito” and “Going Round” sounds exceptionally pristine and gloriously gloomy, making this the perfect soundtrack for the lengthening of summer days and a coming season of practicing the dark arts. t. cole rachel

xymox subsequent pleasures reissue is available july 12 from captured tracks

ZaDIg & VoltaIre ZaDIg-et-VoltaIre.coM

v magaZine 4 7


Clockwise from top: courtesy Fitz and Co.; courtesy Richard Phillips studio (2); courtesy Rizzoli New York

art

Installation view of Richard Phillips’s Negation of the Universe at Dallas Contemporary

Phillips’s monograph is out in October from Rizzoli

al te r n at e s t at e

Nearly tweNty years after completiNg a paiNtiNg that would chaNge his work forever, richard phillips looks back, with aN exhibitioN aNd a New book, at the acid-poteNt pieces that have colored his life aNd ours “You have to understand that I had no audience whatsoever,” Richard Phillips says, sitting in a large suite at Dallas’s Joule Hotel. He’s referring to the time period in which he completed his landmark painting Mask. “It wasn’t like I was painting for a show,” he says of the piece, which he describes as a “night-and-day diference” from his previous work. “I couldn’t get a show. An art dealer came over to my apartment and saw a friend’s work hanging on my wall, and gave him a show and representation. It was cool, but for me, there was no consciousness that [painting] could be anything other than something for myself. The work was very personal.” Today, the painting is one of 52 on display through August 10 in Negation of the Universe, a solo survey exhibition of the artist’s work at the Dallas Contemporary museum. (The show also features three flms and the installation Playboy Marfa, a three-part piece comprising a blacked-out Dodge Charger, a concrete plinth, and a neon Playboy bunny icon.) For the 51-year-old artist, who also opened a show of brand-new works at Berlin’s Galerie Max Hetzler in May, the concept of a retrospective was uncharted territory. 48 v magaziNe

War, 2000, oil on linen, 78 x 78 inches

Mask, 1995, oil on canvas, 78 x 58 inches

“It’s kind of like assembling your greatest hits album,” Phillips says. “Then from there you say, What can we get? The work has been distributed throughout the world. On one hand you have the best-case-scenario fantasy of a selection and then you have the reality of what you can possibly do.” Many of the paintings in the show had to be tracked down, but some proved impossible to locate, their whereabouts enveloped in secrecy. “One of my all-time favorites is called Persia,” he says. “It’s a six-foot-high painting of a white Persian cat with bicolored eyes. I actually don’t know who owns it or where in the world it is. It was sold through Sotheby’s, and their privacy policy after auctions means I will never know.” Among the best-case paintings that did make it to Dallas, War holds special meaning for the artist, who hadn’t laid eyes on it in fourteen years. “I fell gravely ill in 1999,” he explains. “I fell ill working on that painting, and I nearly passed on to the next life at that point. Then after a long period of recovery, it was the frst painting that I fnished. In a way it was the painting that brought me back into being an artist again. I think it’s a particularly beautiful painting, and it’s one of my favorites.” Another surprising reunion was one with a portrait of the former governor of Massachussetts and failed Republican presidential candidate, Mitt Romney. “I made it under such time pressure and it was only up for a short period of time,” he recalls. “I had no time to appreciate what it was like. I am stunned by the painting. It freaks me out.” Those seeking a more complete look at Phillips’s oeuvre to date will be rewarded when Rizzoli releases a comprehensive monograph this October. But what does the experience of so much looking back yield for the artist moving forward? “I think it has to do with how we engage with imagery and how art is our frst language,” he says, resolutely. “It has the potential to communicate and communicate powerfully. It can be anarchic, it can be destructive, it can be violent, and it can be sexual. I think it reconciles our lives rather than creating some type of obfuscation or some type of escape, you know? It’s not an escape from our reality, it’s a diferent type of reality.” Patrik Sandberg

NegatioN of the uNiverse is oN view through august 10 richard phillips: NegatioN of the uNiverse is available october 14 from rizzoli


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Photo assistant Nick Berkofsky Location Lightbox Studios, Los Angeles

one hit wonder

the white stuff

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DRESS, SHOES, TIGHTS SAINT LAURENT by hEdI SLImANE

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beauty

Postproduction Rich Imaging

clockwise FRoM top leFt: 3.1 PhilliP liM For nars iN DARk RooM ($20, NARscosMetics.coM) M.a.c cosMetics stUDio NAil lAcQUeR iN ReBel ($12, MAccosMetics.coM) dior VeRNis NAil lAcQUeR iN cARRÉ BleU ($25, DioR.coM) yVes saint laurent lA lAQUe coUtURe iN No. 52 BleU GAlUcHAt ($27, YslBeAUtYUs.coM) giVenchy le VeRNis iN BRoNZe iNteNse ($20, BARNeYs.coM)

smear campaign Layer your Lids and Lacquer your taLons with the new jeweL-toned hues avaiLabLe this faLL PhotograPhy robin broadbent beauty nicole catanese V MAGAZiNe 5 9


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V MAGAZINE 6 1


62 V MAGAZINE


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matt wears FENDI FOX FUr stOLe wItH LeatHer BUCKLe ($2,650, FeNDI.COm) UNDerwear CALVIN KLEIN


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LAYOuT MArIO TESTINO+ MOdELS EMILY dIdONATO, BrIdgET MALCOLM, AMANdA MurPhY, jOAN SMALLS (IMg), MATT TErrY (FOrd), AurELIEN MuLLEr (ONE.1), SEAN O’PrY (VNY), CLArK BOCKELMAN (wILhELMINA) hAIr jAMES PECIS (d+V) MAKEuP ANd grOOMINg COurTNEY PErKINS uSINg ChANEL BEAuTÉ Manicure Donna D. (artists by tiMothy Priano) Digital technician Dale cutts Photo assistants benjaMin tietge anD beneDikt Frank stylist assistants taryn shuMway anD anDrew lutjens hair assistants holly Mills anD olivia colacci ProDuction jeFF stalnaker anD lauren lanier (art Partner ProDuctions) on-set ProDuction björn FreDeric gerling anD PhiliP boDe (ProDuction berlin) location Manager ernesto enriquez retouching rnD location PhotoPia stuDio, MiaMi catering Manuk catering


setting t h e b a r

for The dazzling pieces in her new archi dior fine jewelry collecTion, arTisTic direcTor VicToire de casTellane looked To The house’s mosT sculpTural archiVal dresses—including The famous bar dress—for inspiraTion. delVe inTo her dreamworld wiTh a chic selecTion of The gorgeous gems phoTography ulysse frechelin

V Congratulations on such an exquisite collection. Was the iconic New Look piece the starting point for you? Victoire de Castellane The collection is inspired by various iconic lines, such as Corolle, Verticale, Zig-Zag, Ailée, and Trompe-l’oeil, or by gowns, such as Dior’s iconic New Look “Bar” suit. Dressmaking is a matter of construction. Christian Dior dreamed of being an architect, and on becoming a couturier he always designed his dresses as if they were strictly structured fabric edifces. In jewelry, too, each piece is a construction, a precious edifce assembled stone by stone. It is precisely this concept of architectural design which has inspired me. Every piece in the Archi Dior Collection has borrowed the name of an iconic line or gown and translates the very distinctive movements of the material into the language of high jewelry. V How do the jewelry and the dresses relate to each other in terms of the design? Were you envisioning how the women of the era would look wearing these pieces? VC I wanted to create each piece just like the dresses Christian Dior designed, with an architect’s eye, as if the jewels were sculpted, founced, pleated, belted, or draped fabrics. V Approximately how long does it take to fnish each piece? VC The collection is composed of 44 unique pieces, and it took from 18 to 24 months to fnish each piece. To give you an example, it took 2,500 hours to accomplish the necklace “Corolle,” which had to be cut into 160 sections in order to permit the setting of over 300 individually resized diamond baguettes. Five hundred sixty hours were needed to successfully complete the setting of the 4,500 stones of the bracelet “Bar.” 1 08 V MAGAZINE


archi dior “cocotte saphir rose� ring in white gold, diamonds, fancy pink diamonds, and pink and purple sapphires


archi dior “Trompe-l'oeil diamanT jaune� ring in yellow gold, diamonds, fancy yellow diamonds, spessarTiTe garneTs, and pink sapphires


archi dior “Verticale plissÉe diamant jaune” earrings in white, yellow, and pink gold with diamonds, fancy yellow, fancy orange, and fancy pink diamonds Production Mathilde Wacogne (artlist Paris) retouching sébastien lacroix location Pin-uP studio, Paris


IVL Skinny, slouchy, and classic. DB That’s how I’d describe you guys too. Ha! What led you to denim design? IVL Neither of us could fnd the perfect jeans that last forever. Even if you do, the brand discontinues the style. So our friend Erik Torstensson at Frame said that if we designed our own versions he would make them. DB What is so special about your designs? IVL We want something that is discreet, jeans that aren’t so skinny I can’t get my ankle through the bottom. I hate that. I feel like a sausage. Also, we noticed that butts look better when the pockets aren’t so large, so our pockets are a little smaller. And it’s a slightly higher waistband, because when we’re shooting we are constantly crouchDerek Blasberg What are we looking at here? ing down and I don’t want the people behind me to see Inez van Lamsweerde These are my jeans! Vinoodh my underwear or anything else back there. and I each designed one style for Frame Denim, avail- DB Do you have a logo? able in three washes. IVL Vinoodh made the belt loops in the back form an DB How would you describe them? “I” and a “V,” and there’s a little stitching on the leg that

I NE Z & VIN O O D H the iconic image makers reveal the inspiration behind their in-jean-ious new endeavor to our editor-at-large

has our initials and a star, which is a reference to our son, Charles Star. DB Who can wear them? IVL We wanted a very democratic ft. No gimmicks. And we wanted to be the jeans that everyone wants to live in. I like boyish hips, so the ladies’ versions are long and narrow. But if for some reason these jeans don’t sell, we don’t care: we have our perfect jeans for the rest of our lives! DB You two also have a fragrance and a jewelry line. How did all this branching out of the photo studio begin? IVL It comes organically. The boundaries of design and creativity are blurring, and we meet all these people and share ideas. It’s brilliant. We shoot everything, we shoot everyone, we’re constantly inspired, and we have this constant input. Now we have a place to express it.

photography inez & vinoodh Freja Beha wears inez & vinoodh for fraMe deniM ($218–$238, availaBle at Barneys, net-a-Porter.com, and mrPorter.com)

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A curated series of photography by ANNIE LEIBOVITZ, JUERGEN TELLER and BRUCE WEBER Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton s tores. 866.VUITTON louisvuitton.com

V90 fall preview 2014 VMAGAZINE.COM

JUERGEN TELLER

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Model Mania by Mario Testino

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