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spring is in bloom the denim issue starring: kate upton lorde kristen wiig willow smith aleX pettyfer Jimmy kimmel gabriella wilde plus: the ford model search winner revealed!

87 spring preview 2014

why can’t

keep her clothes on?

US $7.50 CAN $8.75 DISPLAY UNTIL FEBRUARY 27, 2014

kate wears #dieseltribute by nicola formichetti photographed by inez & vinoodh


W E L C O M E TO V 8 7 T H E S P R I N G P R E V I E W I S S U E !


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Chelsea


masthead

EdITor-IN-CHIEF CrEATIvE dIrECTor Stephen Gan

EdITor

AdvErTISINg oFFICE, ITALy ANd SwITzErLANd

Sarah Cristobal

Magazine International Luciano Bernardini de Pace +39.02.76.4581 magazineinternational.it

SENIor EdITor Patrik Sandberg

MANAgINg dIrECTor Steven Chaiken

SPECIAL ProjECTS

ArT dIrECTor

Jennifer Hartley

Cian Browne

CrEATIvE SErvICES dIrECTor Jennifer Rosenblum

PHoTo/booKINgS EdITor Spencer Morgan Taylor

oNLINE EdITor Natasha Stagg

CoNTrIbuTINg FASHIoN EdITorS Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele Melanie Ward Nicola Formichetti Joe McKenna Jane How Panos Yiapanis Beat Bolliger Olivier Rizzo Clare Richardson Jacob K Andrew Richardson Jonathan Kaye Tom Van Dorpe

CoMMuNICATIoNS Samantha Kain Purple PR 212.858.9888

dISTrIbuTIoN David Renard

ProduCTIoN dIrECTor Melissa Scragg

ProduCTIoN ASSoCIATE Gina Wang

FINANCIAL CoMPTroLLEr Sooraya Pariag

ASSISTANT CoMPTroLLEr Ivana Williams

AdMINISTrATIvE ASSISTANT Wyatt Allgeier

ASSISTANT To THE EdITor-IN-CHIEF William Defebaugh

SENIor FASHIoN EdITor Jay Massacret

ASSoCIATE MArKET EdITorS Michael Gleeson Mia Solkin

FASHIoN ASSISTANT Julian Antetomaso

dESIgN Alexa Vignoles Berkeley Poole

CoNTrIbuTINg EdITorS/ ENTErTAINMENT Greg Krelenstein Kate Branch Starworks

EdITor-AT-LArgE Derek Blasberg

CoNTrIbuTINg EdITorS Kevin McGarry T. Cole Rachel Nicole Catanese

CoPy EdITorS Jeremy Price Traci Parks

ASSoCIATE PubLISHEr Jorge Garcia jgarcia@vmagazine.com

AdvErTISINg dIrECTor Lisa Jordan Helms ljordanhelms@vmagazine.com

AdvErTISINg MANAgEr Vicky Benites vbenites@vmagazine.com 646.747.4545

AdvErTISINg ASSISTANT Sacha Breitman

PHoTogrAPHy bELA borSodI FASHIoN MIA SoLKIN

vISIoNAIrE Cecilia Dean James Kaliardos

CoNSuLTINg CrEATIvE/ dESIgN dIrECTIoN Greg Foley


contributors

take a walk on the wild side

SPECIAL THANKS

V87 Inez & Vinoodh Karl Lagerfeld Josh Olins Sebastian Faena Terry Richardson Robbie Spencer Kacper Kasprzyk Patti Wilson Nicholas Alan Cope Benjamin Lennox Philippe Vogelenzang Delphine Danhier Bela Borsodi Heathermary Jackson Adrian Meško Dan Forbes Robin Broadbent Jason Schmidt Junichi Ito Carl Kleiner Lauren Dukof Lorenzo Agius Dan Martensen Brendan James Horacio Silva Pierre Alexander de Looz Stefe Nelson

theCollectiveShift Jae Choi Rhianna Rule Lauren Pistoia Stephanie Bargas Aeli Park Brenda Brown VLM Marc Kroop Brian Anderson ON THE COVER: Jef Lepine Art Partner Giovanni Testino Amber Olson PHOTOgRAPHY INEz & VINOOdH Candice Marks Sally Borno Lindsey Steinberg Marianne Tesler FASHION NICOLA FORmICHETTI Julia Reis Alexis Costa Eric Pfrunder Océane Sellier kAtE uptON wEArS #dIESELTRIbuTE bY NICOLA FORmICHETTI Art + Commerce Philippe Brutus Ian Bauman Christopher Miles Makeup Aaron De Mey for Sephora (Art Partner) Total Justinian Kfoury Mandy Yeh Katie Yu Jordan Sternberg Hair Shay Ashual (Tim Howard Management) Intrepid Anya Yiapanis Roberta Arcidiacono Bryan Bantry Palma Driscoll Model Kate Upton (IMG) CLM Nick Bryning Heath Cannon Cale Harrison Betty Kim Deana Spavento Streeters Robin Jafee Mandy Smulders Walter Schupfer Management Delphine Del Val V COLLAgE ARTwORK mARC KROOP Management Artists Francesco Savi Bo Zhang Pia Byron REP Ltd. George Miscamble Art Department Patrick O’Leary Rika Noda Jed Root Inc. Kelly Penford Dan Foley Melissa Montoya Tim Howard Management Michelle Service-Fraccari Vanessa Setton The Wall Group Ali Bird Leela Veeravalli Amber Bembnister Calliste The Magnet Agency CXA Inc. Jordan Nystrom Manja Otten Ralph Turfruier Mink Management Marie Linins Giant Artists Eleni Peters Atelier Management Brian Duck Vonetta Baldwin Lauren Nukes M.A.P Ltd. Caroline Noseworthy BRIDGE Joe Management Exposure NY Frank Reps Marek & Associates Kate Ryan Inc. Artists by Timothy Priano Cohen IMG Jennifer Ramey Kyle Hagler FORD NY Natalie Smith Paulette Ellison Sam Doerfer Blake Woods Kati Brown FORD LA Monica Diaz Ali Cohen Women Management Matt Holloway One.1 Management Allen Osborne Elite Model Victor Del Toro DNA Models Gene Kogan Scout Stars Models Look Model Agency APM Models The Wolves Aubri Balk Workgroup Ltd. Samuel Ellis Scheinman Felicity Byrne GE-Projects Gabe Hill Suzy Kang ROOT Studios Øutpost Studio Pier 59 Studios Fast Ashleys Studios Splashlight Studios BLANK Digital Stereohorse Velem Ludovic d’Hardiville Hempstead May

INTERNS Yalda Bagher Travis Blue Bill Campofelice Ane Johannessen Daniel Leeds Nicholas Mao Luna Michel Pearce Morgan Anais Raynaud Kyle Robertson Andrew Tess Milou Verhoeven JEANS SISLEY SHOES CESARE PACIOTTI 23


get your blue jeans on

Model Sophie Loyd (APM Models) Photo assistant David Espinoza Production Rika Noda (Art Department)

table of contents

32 uP aLL nigHt V does Halloween in Standard style, Jean Paul Gaultier holds a Brooklyn bonanza, Burberry plays on, MoMA and Chanel pay tribute to Tilda, Dior sponsors the Guggenheim’s gala, LACMA plays host to L.A.’s luminaries, and Lady Gaga raves on 34 one nigHt onLY Bloomberg made “Giorgio Armani Day” official in New York City, and for those who attended the elegant extravaganza at the Super Pier, it’s no secret why 36 forever in bLue jeans Nothing came between Brooke Shields and her Calvins, and American advertising has never been the same 38 v neWs DVF celebrates a milestone, Zaha Hadid builds a Weitzman wonderland, Gucci is on the fringe, Eddie Borgo makes a statement bigger than jewelry, and all the cool art shows to see this spring 40 WorK in Progress Katharina Grosse’s polydimensional public painting; Andra Usura’s oversized appetite; Deborah Kass keeps optimism alive 44 PoWerHouse Talk show superstars come together to show us what it takes to build a late-night legacy 48 sWeet sCents Time to stop and wear the roses

68 tHe onLY WaY is uPton bY ineZ & vinoodH Want to know how a catalog model from Florida became modeling’s second mononymous “Kate”? Get up close with the girl taking over the world. Fashion by Nicola Formichetti 76 tHe WorLd aCCording to WiLLoW bY KarL LagerfeLd Leagues beyond her hair-whipping beginnings, the 13-year-old Hollywood princess hits Paris with Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele to flaunt her God-given sense of style and get-real attitude about the fame game 84 rites of sPring bY josH oLins The summer goth ensembles arrive a season early, as modeled by the statuesque and terminally cool Iseline Steiro 98 Hearts Wide oPen bY sebastian faena For Hollywood’s next big box-office romance, Alex Pettyfer and Gabriella Wilde take the art of doomed love to new heights 104 neW season neW girLs neW LooKs bY KaCPer KasPrZYK The wait is over! Meet Iesha, Angelica, and Rachelle, the fnalists in the V and Ford Model Search. Consider this your ofcial introduction to future greatness

49 Pro CHoiCe Top makeup artists reveal the best beauty products to buy right now 50 runaWaY trends From sports to spots to shifts that make (literal) statements, the season’s runway sent some very clear signals 52 in Your faCe Start a staring contest with Spring’s most expressive satchels 54 PoWer stePPing Too cool for Tevas? Try some of these chic and sporty sandals on for size and think again 56 four Houses Hit refresH The fashion industry loves a shake-up, but amid the high-profile comings and goings, four houses struck gold with new brains behind the brands 60 stroKes of jeanius Get to know the denim gods behind Calvin Klein, Levi’s, J Brand, Guess, 7 For All Mankind, and Paige 64 Praise tHe Lorde! How a self-professed teenage weirdo went from her bedroom to the top of the Billboard charts

PhotograPhy Bela Borsodi Fashion Mia solkin Jeans armani jeans shoes diane von furstenberg 24

116 Wiig’s Weird and WonderfuL WaYs bY terrY riCHardson Is Kristen Wiig the new Queen of Comedy? The most successful SNL crossover in years continues to stake her Hollywood claim 122 form meets fasHion bY niCHoLas aLan CoPe One of the world’s most treasured designers inspires artist Nicholas Alan Cope to create denim scupltures based on the Spring/Summer 2014 collection 128 Last Word bLasberg V’s ultra-connected editor-at-large commences a new series of chats, and who better to start with than Giorgio Armani?


editor’s letter

it's in the jeans

Three generations of style, from top: Willow Smith, her mother Jada Pinkett-Smith, grandmother Adrienne Banfeld Jones, and cousin Skylar Downs

This issue is dedicated to denim, which is clearly bigger than just a fabric or a fad. Though its origins are indisputably European, historians are divided as to whether denim initially descended from serge de Nimes, a silk wool blend found in 17th-century France, or the fustian “jean” from Genoa, Italy. One thing is for certain: in 1873, the denim created by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss caught on as workwear. Since then, all the way to the glitz and glam of the recent Spring/Summer 2014 runway shows, the fabric has had a long and involved history. It could even be considered a metaphor for how we live today. More than any other material, denim fts and moves with you. From the ofce to outdoors, from dive bars to red carpets, it has become universally acceptable attire for regular Joes, royals, rebels, and rock stars. One person who can attest to the enduring allure of the fabric is longtime friend and contributing fashion editor Nicola Formichetti. Having frst come onto the V scene as a young stylist with a penchant for deconstructed designs, 14 years ago, it is ftting that he now reigns as the artistic director of Diesel. His new capsule collection #DIESELTRIBUTE appears on a cover for the frst time, gracing the curvaceous megamodel/actress Kate Upton in a glamorous shoot by Inez & Vinoodh, styled by the maestro himself. What a long way to come. Of course we couldn’t have celebrated the art of denim without designers from the feld, and for that we paid studio visits to Calvin Klein, Guess, Levi’s, and more. You’ll better appreciate your favorite worn-in pair of jeans upon reading about their process. 30 30

Speaking of design and personal evolution, we are thrilled to feature precocious 13-year-old Willow Smith in this issue. The teen, pictured here with her mother, Jada Pinkett-Smith, grandmother Adrienne, and cousin Skylar, decided to take a respite from her skyrocketing music career to enjoy everyday life. Peruse her philosophical musings (on page 80) while taking in her fabulous shoot, snapped on the streets of Paris by Karl Lagerfeld and styled by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele. V has a long history of introducing fedgling talent, and with that in mind we are proud to showcase the results of the months-long V Magazine and Ford Model Search in this issue. Meet Angelica, Iesha, and Rachelle as they don the best ready-to-wear pieces of the new season. Spring was chock full of designer denim, from Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Saint Laurent Paris, and more. See them all in action on model Iselin Steiro in a vampy shoot by Josh Olins, styled by Clare Richardson. We close out the issue with a fresh look at the latest collection by Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons, as interpreted by artist Nicholas Alan Cope and stylist Patti Wilson. So whatever your denim preference—cropped, flared, stonewashed, or otherwise—we hope this issue inspires you to live a little. After all, a good pair of jeans can last a lifetime, and that’s a lot of memories. Ms. V PhotograPhy karl lagerfeld fashion carlyne cerf de dudzeele


Marc Kroop

Sophia Lamar

Dree Hemingway

Scott Merriam

Emily Ratajkowski

Lindsey Wixson

Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld

Stephen Gan

Julia Restoin Roitfeld

Dean Caten

Sebastian Faena

Lady Bunny

André Balazs

Dan Caten

Evelien Joos

Ivan Olita

Teriha Yaegashi

José Parlá

Natalie Joos

Michael Quinn

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Alexa Chung

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Lorde

Iman

Sofa Coppola

Lauren Santo Domingo

David Karl Bowie Lagerfeld

Brad Kroenig

Tilda Swinton

Eve Salvail

Imogen Poots

Diana Taylor

Michael Bloomberg

Susanne Bartsch

Carine Roitfeld

Karlie Kloss

Beth Ditto

Coco Rocha

Amanda Lepore

Jean Paul Gaultier

Natalie Bondhi

Thierry-Maxime Loriot

TOTALLY TILDA

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Hannah Bronfman

Kyleigh Kuhn

Genevieve Jones

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Alana Zimmer

Nick Rea

Mazdack Rassi

Kyung-Lim Lee

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Mia and Patrick Demarchelier

James Turrell

Leelee Sobieski

Sidney Toledano

Gaia Repossi

Olivier Bialobos

Jennifer Stockman

Stella Tennant

Raf Simons

Natalie Portman

Shala Monroque

Cindy Sherman

BURBERRY’S GOT THE BEAT

DASHING IN DIOR

As PART oF A woRLDwIDE sERIEs oF ConCERTs showCAsInG YoUnG BRITIsh BAnDs, BURBERRY AnD MILK hosT A show In nYC FEATURInG MUsICAL GUEsTs PEACE AnD ChARLI XCX To PRoMoTE ThEIR nEw FRAGRAnCE, BRIT RhYThM

sTARs AnD ARTIsTs ALIKE GAThER UPTown FoR A FÊTE hosTED BY ThE soLoMon R. GUGGEnhEIM MUsEUM’s YoUnG CoLLECToR’s CoUnCIL, ALonG wITh DIoR, To CELEBRATE ARTIsTs JAMEs TURRELL AnD ChRIsToPhER wooL

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Nicole Richie

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Drew Eva Barrymore Chow

Martin Scorsese

Zoe Saldana

James Franco

Mary J. Blige

Frida Giannini

Kate Hudson

Kendu Isaacs

Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley

Lady Gaga

Vinoodh Matadin

Jeff Koons

Klaus Biesenbach

Inez van Lamsweerde

Tony Bennett

Casey Spooner

Marina Abramović

Benjamin Rollins Caldwell

Twista

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Cate Underwood (Halloween); Billy Farrell Agency/BFA.com (Halloween, MoMA, Gaultier, Burberry, Dior, Gucci); courtesy Lady Gaga (ARTRAVE)

Sting

32

Amanda Harlech


backstage at the armani privÉ rUnWaY shOW

Courtesy Giorgio Armani

ONE NIGHT ONLY

When giorgio armani hosts a lavish party in your toWn, you can be sure that the stars Will come out to play. the legendary designer rolled out the red carpet in neW york for his fabulous “one night only” fÊte, featuring the traveling “eccentrico” exhibition and an armani privÉ runWay spectacular

the “eccentricO” exhibitiOn On DispLaY

rickY martin

martin scOrsese

mark rOnsOn

renÉe zeLLWeger

giOrgiO armani

LeOnarDO DicapriO

gLenn cLOse

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It took Team Armani 12 days to construct the impressive 100,000-square-foot infrastructure at New York’s SuperPier for the designer’s traveling “One Night Only” extravaganza (previous outposts include Rome, London, Beijing, and Tokyo). Once ushered inside, over 700 glamorous guests including Martin Scorsese, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Hilary Swank were treated to a VIP preview of the designer’s “Eccentrico” couture exhibition, plus a 45-minute fashion show featuring over 150 looks from the Armani Privé archive as well as his latest Fall/Winter 2014 haute couture collection of exquisite “Nude” pieces, made to look like a chic second skin. (As if!) Afterward there was dînatoire and dancing to be had in a luxe lounge-cum-nightclub. The haute monde hit the dance foor with aplomb, fueled by limitless champagne and tunes spun by DJ Mark Ronson. All of this is to say that when Mr. Armani wants to make his presence known, he certainly does so with panache. Come back anytime, Mr. A. 34

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FLASHBACK

FOREVER IN BLUE JEANS

stroll down memory lane with the career-defining campaign that catapulted both calvin klein and brooke shields into pop culture history

36

The campaign might have been NBD to Shields, but In these pre-boyfriend-jeans times it was a source it struck a nerve in the pop culture world; over the years of pride to have to lie down in order to zip up. A tight it became a marker of a time when the world was a bit ft communicated that the wearer was part of the thin topsy-turvy and adults were acting like children. Not only crowd. The logo (which functioned much like a vanity did they not want to go to bed, they also didn’t want to plate on one’s derriere) was a shorthand way of saying dress like moms and dads. Can it be a coincidence that you were (or wanted to be) a member of the fashionable Macy’s created its Status Jeans Shop in 1978, the same “in” crowd. It said, as did Brooke in the commercial, “I’ve year that Studio 54 opened its doors? been Calvinized.” Calvin didn’t come up with the idea of second-skin clothing—one didn’t wear underpinnings with, say, Brooke ShieldS photographed By richard avedon for the calvin klein JeanS ad, aS puBliShed in the SeptemBer 1981 Stephen Burrows’s louche jersey disco dresses—but he iSSue of harper’S Bazaar was, along with Sasson and Gloria Vanderbilt (with her signature swan logo), one of the first to make designer jeans a “thing,” to elevate humble denim to a symbol PhotograPhy Junichi ito of status. JeanS (in Background) calvin Klein Jeans

Fashion assistant Maria-Luna Michel

If you listen carefully, you can, now and again, hear the faint echo of the tagline that was heard round the world back in 1980: “You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” Those dozen sassy words have entered the history books because they were spoken by the preternaturally sophisticated 15-year-old actress Brooke Shields, whom controversy followed in the wake of her three provocative flms: Pretty Baby, Endless Love, and The Blue Lagoon. “It’s sort of like I was never not naked,” the one-time star of taboo-shattering coming-of-age ficks told V in 2008. As for the Calvin ad, shot by her great friend Richard Avedon, it was, as she recalled in another interview, “just a huge job I went to after school, at three o’clock.” CBS felt diferently, and banned it.


Below, from left: courtesy the artist and Lehmann Maupin, New York and Hong Kong; Emil Grubenmann courtesy the artist/Hauser & Wirth; courtesy the artist/Metro Pictures; courtesy the artist

v news fringe benefits The bloodlust for each season’s It bag has many houses churning out so many statement slings that it can be hard for even the most devoted fashion-watcher to keep track. However, something about the Gucci bag will be hard to forget this Spring, with its bold colorways and epic fringe appeal. Designed to accompany the luxe collection’s bohemian sportswear, the elements of this new must-have will literally move with you as you strut your stuf. Ms. Giannini is NOT messing around…and nor should you, if you plan on getting noticed this season. Mia SOLKin

PHOTOGraPHy JUniCHi iTO GUCCi MEDIUM SHOULDER BAG IN BERRIES WITH TASSELS, FRINGES, AND BAMBOO DETAILS ($2,500, GUCCI.COM)

AlexPrager Crowd #8 (City Hall), 2013

Roman Signer House of Rockets, 1981

Olaf Breuning Schneezeichnung, 2007

Collier Schorr Before and After, 2013

WHAt tO see: tOP eXHibitiOns tHis sPring In January the art world will awake from holiday hangovers to a busy menu of shows opening around the world. Lehmann Maupin Gallery in New York will break the winter gray with its frst exhibition of photographer Alex Prager, opening at their Lower East Side location on January 9 (through February 22). Known for a quasi-retro brand of maudlin, full-color noir, Prager straddles the worlds of art, fashion, and celebrity in a very contemporary way. To shoot her new body of work, “Face in the Crowd,” she cast and choreographed scenes packed with bodies and directed one protagonist to give the camera a knowing, uneasy twinkle. The following week, the Hammer Museum at UCLA will inaugurate British artist Nathaniel Mellors with his frst solo show on January 18 (through May 25). Treading familiar terrain, Mellors’s new flm is called The Sophisticated Neanderthal Interview, which as the title suggests involves an erudite caveman caught on camera in an allegorical dialogue critiquing the sustainability of modern society. Roughly 6,000 miles east and 1,000 meters up, globe-trotting curator Neville Wakefeld and his artistic paramour, Olympia Scarry, will open “Elevation 1049” in the tony alpine stronghold of Gstaad, Switzerland, on January 27 (through March 8). Named for the altitude of the famed ski resort, “Elevation 1049” is the frst in a series of itinerant group exhibitions the couple promises to stage around the world, and will include work by an intergenerational, all-Swiss cast including Urs Fischer, Roman Signer, and Olaf Breuning.

Down the mountain, Kunsthalle Zürich will host the frst Swiss museum show by phenom London video artist Ed Atkins, on Valentine’s Day. Atkins’s videos have garnered lots of attention for their existential evocations and home-brewed uses of sophisticated audio and video technologies. For this project he’ll unite a series of projections spread throughout several galleries with a master score that permeates the museum. By then New York’s New Museum will be ready to show the frst retrospective in the U.S. of Polish sculptor Pawel Althamer. An innovator who has long worked forms of social collaboration into his own art practice, Althamer will reprise his blockbuster piece from the 2012 Berlin Biennale, “Draftmen’s Congress,” on the museum’s fourth foor. The show opens on February 12 as a room wrapped in white paper and will become— by way of democratically elected chaos—a forest of charcoal, paint, and collage by the time it closes on April 20. Cycling back to pictures, 303 Gallery in New York will open its latest exhibition by Collier Schorr on February 27 (through April 12). Like Prager, Schorr is not only a fne artist but also embedded in fashion as an editorial photographer (she is a regular contributor to V). Her new series, “8 Women,” spans works from the mid ’90s to the present. Focusing on various types of performers, who desire and depend on being looked at, Schorr presents a diverse catalog that simultaneously embraces and inverts the traditional power dynamics between models and photographer, who in this case are all post-feminist ladies. Kevin McGarry


Courtesy Diane von Furstenberg; courtesy Stuart Weitzman; still life photography Brendan James

V-BUY

v news

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dvf’s design legacy “That’s a wrap” is typically synonymous with endings, but for Diane von Furstenberg it is where her story began. Forty years ago, the plucky 26-year-old princess dipped her toe into the design world with her very first wrap dress. A chance meeting with iconic Vogue editor Diana Vreeland helped bring her form-fitting frock to the masses and soon an empire was born. Von Furstenberg is celebrating the storied garment this month with her Journey of a Dress exhibition at the Wilshire May Company building in L.A., where devotees can trace its evolution and also admire the portraits of Von Furstenberg created by Andy Warhol, Helmut Newton, Annie Leibovitz, Dustin Yellin, and others. “It’s hard to believe 40 years have passed and the dress is still alive and relevant,” says Von Furstenberg. “What better way to honor it than by dedicating a full retrospective in the building of an old famous department store that will soon become The Museum of the Academy on the LACMA campus. Glamour, art, and commerce...just like the wrap dress itself!” MIA SOLKIN

JOurNey Of A DreSS IS ON vIew At the wILShIre MAy COMpANy buILDINg IN LOS ANgeLeS frOM JANuAry 11 tO AprIL 1

“People have always been interested in the projects that achieve the fantastic—projects that make fantasy a built reality. They are fascinated by diferent experiences, and this is key for retail design,” explains fashion savvy architect Zaha Hadid of her approach to creating Stuart Weitzman’s recently minted 3,000-square-foot fagship on Via Sant’Andrea in Milan. To a feet of 53 international and 44 U.S. sales points, Hadid’s team will add a total of six over three years, including locations in Rome, New York, Dubai, Harrod’s London, and most immediately at the IFC Centre, Hong Kong, due to open by February 2014. The result of months of studying the brand, the Milan prototype is more jewelry case than shoe shop, setting a fattering formula for future locations. On Via Sant’Andrea, sculptural bands of reinforced, lightweight concrete rendered in velvety grays strap the foor to the walls and ceiling, much as an evening pump might lace up over instep and ankle. Linear lighting, glassy surfaces, and luminescent ceilings stir the sense of fow, orchestrating what Hadid calls an event space, “a feld of diferent spaces that ofer a variety of experiences, with a coherence that unites the whole and a clarity to exhibit the products at their best.” Indeed, Hadid’s most ingenious move may be the sinewy product displays that snake down the center of the store and double as seating, relieving the walls of clutter and letting the windows reveal the treasures within. Chromed in a painstakingly developed rose-gold, these gems of modular furniture will be fabricated near Milan for all the fagships. Seating areas pair with foor mats of silk carpeting, a comforting detail Weitzman insisted on. That same insistence has borne stunning results for the New York shoe designer, who placed repeated inquiries with Hadid’s London ofce before landing the architect, this despite her wellestablished sartorial signature including heels by Weitzman. The ft may seem obvious enough, but this frst realized collaboration confrms that the designers do wear each other well. pIerre ALexANDre De LOOz

LevI’S uS.LevI.COM LOuIS vuIttON LOuISvuIttON.COM M.A.C COSMetICS MACCOSMetICS.COM MArC by MArC JACObS MArCJACObS.COM MArC JACObS MArCJACObS.COM MArNI MArNI.COM MIChAeL KOrS MIChAeLKOrS.COM MIu MIu MIuMIu.COM MONCLer x phArreL wILLIAMS MONCLer.COM ObeSIty & SpeeD ObeSItyANDSpeeD.COM pACO rAbANNe pACOrAbANNe.COM pAIge pAIgeuSA.COM pAMeLA LOve pAMeLALOveNyC.COM phILOSOphy DI ALbertA ferrettI phILOSOphy.ALbertAferrettI.COM prADA prADA.COM rAg & bONe rAg-bONe.COM rALph LAureN rALphLAureN.COM repOSSI repOSSI.COM revLON revLON.COM rObertO CAvALLI rObertOCAvALLI.COM rODArte rODArte.Net SAINt LAureNt by heDI SLIMANe ySL.COM ShAuN LeANe ShAuNLeANe.COM SIMONe rOChA SIMONerOChA.COM SISLey SISLey.COM SteLLA McCArtNey SteLLAMCCArtNey.COM StuArt weItzMAN StuArtweItzMAN.COM tOD’S tODS.COM tOMMy hILfIger uSA.tOMMy.COM

grrl power After fve years at the helm of his wildly successful jewelry company, Eddie Borgo had some strategic thinking to do about where he wanted to take his brand. “We had to do one of those marketing exercises like Who is our customer,” he says. “Those things can be pretty torturous, but also helpful. And my female friends say that our jewelry makes them feel powerful, so that was the starting point for the season.” Borgo and his team took the empowerment idea full tilt, delving into Feminist Theory 101, and drawing inspiration from suffragettes, women’s lib heroes Elizabeth Cady Stanton and Gloria Steinem, La Femme Nikita, Patty Hearst, political art, Pussy Riot, and more. The resulting Spring/Summer collection is rife with moxie and military symbolism. Medallions appear as oversized charms. Zippers cast from combat boots are reinterpreted into bracelets, rings, and earrings. Borgo even created his version of a purple heart, with druzy crystal, which makes for a very fetching pendant. Among his core customers, perhaps the greatest catalyst of all was the designer’s own mother. “She was a feminist who was questioning a lot of the things that were happening in 1960s America,” he says. “A lot of her spirit from that time came from the campaigns at that time that eventually made reform possible.” SArAh CrIStObAL

trASh AND vAuDevILLe trAShANDvAuDevILLe.COM vALeNtINO vALeNtINO.COM

eDDIe bOrgO LArge ChALLeNge Cuff ($850, LANeCrAwfOrD.COM)

verSACe verSACe.COM

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woRk IN pRog Ress Three excepTional arTisTs creaTe large-scale works based on fierce fragmenTaTion, gelaTinous foods, and a cauTiously opTimisTic vision of The fuTure PhotograPhy Jason schmidt

rainbow connection This is me with Just Two of Us in Brooklyn, at Metrotech Commons. Just Two of Us is the smallest version of a very big outdoor painting whose ripped and torn up polydimensional surface is caught up between the rigid order of trees in a city park. There is not one right way to look at the work. It provokes you to move around, in, and through it, attempting to put it together with your inner vision. The illogical tactility of the piece resists becoming a homogeneous image. It forces you to experience the world as discontinuous and fragmented. The exaggerated fragmentation questions our need for harmony and shows us the impossibility of experiencing the world seamlessly. Katharina grosse 40


food for thought What you see in the picture is not a complete work; they are parts of a large sculpture I plan to show at the Independent Art Fair next year. The sculpture will be made based on the recipe for a jellied meat dish popular in Eastern Europe and will weigh several hundred pounds; it required me to make hundreds of pieces of fake food, some regular size, some oversize. Each ingredient was hand-painted to look as real as possible. Other projects I am currently working on include miniature concrete bunkers and giant infatable fsts, for a January show at Peep-Hole in Milan, and a cemetery installation titled “Fear Of Life,” at the Hammer Museum in Los Angeles, that is scheduled to open in March. AndrA UsUrA


WORK IN PROGRESS

live through this Here I am, in my studio, surrounded by work from my ongoing “feel good paintings for feel bad times” series. Optimistic and dark, they attempt to capture the doubleedged sword of trying to survive in our troubling times. The work incorporates lyrics and visual tropes from 20th century postwar painting and embraces the emotional and political potential of nostalgia and identifcation. Let’s face it, the 20th-century wasn’t so great, and the 21st is not shaping up too well either. Having lived through the second half of one century, what does it feel like to live through another? What do we take with us from the past in order to understand the present and imagine a future? deborah kass


POWER HOUSE Keeping millions of AmericAns lAughing is more thAn A one-mAn job—it tAKes A villAge. meet tv’s most rule-breAKing, sidesplitting emcees And the teAms thAt help them mAKe mAgic At the midnight hour 44


Fashion (Jimmy Kimmel) Rodney Muñoz Groomer Stephanie Fowler Digital technician Gray Hamner Photo assistants Noah Schutz, Rickey Tompkins, Eric Hargrove Equipment rental Milk LA Retouching 795 Photo, Inc. Special Thanks Sienna Sanders

Jimmy kimmel Program: Jimmy Kimmel Live Number of episodes taped: 1,978 regular shows and about 100 specials. What’s your ideal demographic? ABC shoots for 18- to 49-year-olds. What are your most popular segments? “Unnecessary Censorship” is something where we bleep words out to make them seem like curse words. I have a running feud with Matt Damon that people seem to enjoy. We also do something called “Make a Baby Sparkle,” where we cover a baby in glue and roll him in glitter. I just made that up. What’s the most unusual thing you’ve attempted on the air for the sake of entertainment? We had a fake animal trainer come out with a deadly snake, but it was actually a robot we rigged to jump out of the crate and bite me, and then we cut to commercial. Everyone was horrified. Then I got into an ambulance and went to the Grey’s Anatomy hospital. Take us through an average day on the set: At 10 am I go through ideas and jokes from the writers, then I have a meeting with the executive producers and the segment producers to talk about the guests. Then there’s rehearsal, I shower, I go through another round of jokes, edit scripts, approve video, and then start writing the monologue, at 4. We have that done at 6, and we shoot at 7. It’s almost like a newspaper. You just kind of fill in the slots and everything

has a deadline. Do you have any rituals before or after a taping? We have something we do before, where everyone who’s in my office before the show does a new chant every day—usually an inside joke about someone in the room—and then everyone chants “BEST SHOW EVER” as I leave. Who have been some of your favorite guests? I really love some of the older guys, like Don Rickles, Mel Brooks, and Carl Reiner, because those are the guys I watched on talk shows when I was a kid, so it really makes me feel like I’m a talk show host, it’s like talk show fantasy camp. Who is your dream guest? I’ve always wanted to have Madonna on the show. I started going through puberty just around the time that Madonna emerged and I’ve always had a…maybe not a crush, maybe a masturbatory obsession. Steve Martin and Bill Murray, you can also add them to the masturbatory obsession category. What is the most fun part of the show? I like to cook, so it’s a great opportunity to meet chefs, you get these world-class chefs coming to your show and teaching you how to make something. Also the bands, you have your own little concert at your workplace almost every night. What are the challenges in doing late night TV? It’s a lot more work than it looks like it is, and the key is making it look easy. We make it as hard on ourselves as

we possibly can. Who is your biggest hero or influence? David Letterman and Howard Stern are probably my biggest influences. I did 12 years of radio before television and a lot of what I learned I learned from Howard. He involves everyone in the production and in the on-air product and that kind of honest approach he takes to broadcasting, I think, is unprecedented. And also Dr. Maya Angelou. Do you have any inside jokes hidden in your set? We re-did our set, but for many years we had Gary Coleman’s sweatpants, which I bought off him for $550. They were framed and hanging in the studio. Tell us something about your production that viewers might not expect: There are all sorts of shenanigans going on in the green room, depending on who the guest is that night. Usually when there’s a rapper there’s a big cloud of green smoke to walk through before you get to the stage. Would you ever host the Oscars? Only if they ask very, very nicely. Give us a sign-off: My version of “Seacrest out?” Goodnight, sweet prince!

PhotograPhy Lorenzo agius Back Row, Left to Right: JennifeR ShaRRon, JaSon SchRift, Mike ShauLeS, aLec PotteR fRont Row, Left to Right: anthony PaRadiSe, eRin iRwin, JiMMy kiMMeL, JiLL LeideRMan


Fashion (Chelsea Handler) Shelley Carter Photo assistant Gregory Brouillette

CHELSEA HANDLER Program: Chelsea Lately Number of episodes taped: I’m pretty sure we’ve taped 10,000, but we’ve only aired 1,231. If I don’t like how something turns out, we throw it in the E! vault, which is under the Kardashians’ Calabasas home. What’s your ideal demographic? Men between the ages of 70 and 74 and their third wives. What are your most popular segments? Anything that involves me getting naked with a celebrity. Take us through an average day on the set: Our day starts anywhere from 8:30 to 10 am in the writers’ room. We only have a few hours to throw everything together, including all of the graphics, clips, topics, and costumes for live, onstage sketches. I go through wardrobe, hair, and makeup, approve the fnal round of jokes, and do a cold open rehearsal. The show tapes at 3:30 pm. After, we go over the next day or we might flm a sketch. Do you have any rituals before or after a taping? I make sure to work out every morning. During a taping I autograph books for audience members between each segment— that’s never on air. I also challenge myself to drop jokes in that

weren’t planned, to keep it interesting. My post-show ritual is to walk into the ofces of my staf writers to see if they have any interesting stories about their personal lives for me. Who have been some of your favorite guests? People who have turned out to be friends, like Jen Aniston and Sandra Bullock. Justin Bieber, because he’s one of the biggest stars, but to me he seems like a little brother. And people like Will Ferrell who do a regular interview but then sometimes just show up on stage driving a golf cart. Who is your dream guest? David Hasselhof. He’s been on the show, but I want one hour with him. Alone. Not on camera. What is the most fun part of the show? Going home at the end of the day. What are the challenges in doing late night TV? Late night TV has to have an edge and a punch. You want people to not just fip past your show. The challenge is to be funny but to be likeable enough that people are okay with you being the last person they see on TV before they go to bed. Every late night host knows that the others will be talking about the same topics when a huge

story breaks. The trick is to really know yourself and know that nobody is going to have your take on that topic. Who is your biggest hero or infuence? Oprah. Stedman. Gayle. I have a small sphere of infuence. Tell us something about your production that viewers might not expect: We are not drunk all the time on the show. Would you ever host the Oscars? It seems like there’s a lot of backlash against the host. You always hear that people were too funny and it was disrespectful or they weren’t funny enough and the home audience was bored. I can take the criticism, but I wouldn’t fnd that kind of pressure to be any fun. Give us a sign-off: Seacrest out!

PhotograPhy Lauren Dukoff cheLSeA weArS toP DIeseL PAntS gIorgIo arManI ShoeS her own FroM LeFt to right: cheLSeA hAndLer, brAd woLLAck, SArAh coLonnA (Lying), thoMAS dALe, chriS FrAnJoLA, heAther McdonALd, Jen kirkMAn, JiFFy wiLd, Fortune FeiMSter, chuy brAvo (on Scooter), roSS MAthewS

ANDY COHEN

Front row, LeFt to right: John SchuLtz, Andy cohen Second row, LeFt to right: zArA FindLAy-ShirrAS, MeLiSSA FrAnce, robyn bAuM, deirdre connoLLy behind bAr: John hiLL

Photo assistants Michael J. Fox and Steven Counts Special Thanks Morgan Di Stefano

PhotograPhy Dan Martensen

Groomer Caroline Blanchard

Program: Watch What Happens Live What’s your ideal demographic? Everyone, but especially women ages 18 to 49. What are some of your most popular segments? “Plead the Fifth,” “Shotski Night,” “The Vault,” and “The Mazel and Jackhole of the Night” What’s the most unusual thing you’ve attempted on the air for the sake of entertainment? Getting spanked by Martha Stewart. I might be a masochist. Do you have any rituals before or after a taping? I start drinking right when we go on the air and continue sipping through the night. Who have been some of your favorite guests? Cher, Dan Rather, Meryl Streep, Sweet “Ain’t Nobody Got Time For That!” Brown, every Real Housewife, Jimmy Fallon. Who is your dream guest? Michelle Obama. Do you have any inside jokes hidden in your set? We have an implant that was inside a Real Housewife of Orange County, a Justin Bieber doll in drag—wearing a DVF wrap dress in which he looks smashing—and of course the shotski that Jimmy Fallon and his wife, Nancy, made me when the show went fve nights a week. Would you ever host the Oscars? There’s no way in hell they would ever ask!


Photo assistant Gregory Brouillette Groomer Lisa Zimmitti

POWERHOUSE

BILL MAHER Program: Real Time with Bill Maher Number of episodes taped: 302 What’s your ideal demographic? Anyone with an open mind. What’s the most unusual thing you’ve attempted on the air for the sake of entertainment? The swimsuit episode of Politically Incorrect. Take us through an average day on the set: I think of funny things to say and then, at 7 on Fridays, I say them. Do you have any rituals before or after a taping? I have a confessional booth in my dressing room and before each taping a priest hears my previous week’s sins. Whatever gets a gasp, I say on the air. Who have been some of your favorite guests? Too many to mention. They know who they are, because I keep asking them back. Who is your dream

CRAIG FERGUSON Fashion (Craig Ferguson) George Mitchell Digital technician Gray Hamner Photo assistants Noah Schutz, Rickey Tompkins, Eric Hargrove Equipment rental Milk LA Retouching 795 Photo, Inc. Special Thanks Sienna Sanders

Program: The Late Late Show with Craig Ferguson Number of episodes taped: 10 years’ worth What’s your ideal demographic? Insomniacs 18 to 34 What are some of your most popular segments? I’m told that people seem to enjoy the “Tweet Mail” segment. I guess that’s why it lasted. Do you have any rituals before or after a taping? After every show the producers and I have a séance to tell us how we did. So far, the Ouija board loves all of it. Every episode. What is the most fun part of the show? I really enjoyed the of-the-cuf banter between myself and the robot. People don’t believe that none of that is scripted, but it isn’t. If you could broadcast anything without network interference, what would you do? My next colonoscopy. Give us a signof: It’s a great day for America, everybody!

PhotograPhy Lorenzo agius Back Row, Left to Right: ted muLkeRin, Jonathan moRano middLe Row, Left to Right: Josh RoBeRt thompson, RoBot (geoff peteRson), tim mancineLLi, peteR LassaLLy, cRaig feRguson, michaeL naidus, Lisa ammeRman fRont Row, Left to Right: Liza coggins, tuyen tRan, secRetaRiat (Joseph BoLteR and Ryan mcgowan)

guest? Bill Clinton (and Bill, if you are reading this, please come anytime). What is the most fun part of the show? When I realize I’ve gotten away with another one. What are the challenges in doing late night TV? Getting out of bed in time to get to the studio. I’m a night owl. Who is your biggest hero or influence? Well, I have two. Johnny Carson and of course Honey Boo Boo. Do you have any inside jokes hidden in your set? No. We used to have the Latin for “keepin’ it real” on set, but we painted over it. Tell us something about your production that viewers might not expect: At all meetings, I sit on a throne. If you could take your show anywhere in the world, where would you go? The past. I’d like to host a show at

Independence Hall on July 3rd, 1776. I would just want to suggest a couple of New Rules for the Declaration of Independence. If you could broadcast anything without network interference, what would you do? At this point in my career, I pretty much can. Would you ever host the Oscars? Only if they asked. Give us a sign-off: Goodnight and good luck.

PhotograPhy Lauren Dukoff Back Row, Left to Right: Jay JaRoch, BRian JacoBsmeyeR, adam feLBeR, chRis keLLy, sheiLa gRiffiths, scott caRteR, matt wood fRont Row, Left to Right: matt gunn, danny VeRmont, BiLLy maRtin, dean Johnsen, BiLL maheR


Want to stop and smell the roses? this bouquet of floral fragrances Will do the trick PhotograPhy robin broadbent beauty editor nicole catanese

Postproduction Lutz + Schmitt

sweet scents

clockwise From leFt: aerin lilac Path eau de ParFum ($110, esteelauder.com) Miss dior Blooming Bouquet eau de toilette ($75, nordstrom.com) roses de chloĂŠ eau de toilette ($120, nordstrom.com) chanel chance shimmering Body cream ($75, chanel.com) Valentino Valentina oud assoluto eau de ParFum ($150, neimanmarcus.com)


pro choice up your glam factor this spring with a bevy of new beauty products handpicked by the titans of the makeup world From leFt: EstéE LaudEr LimitEd Edition dErEk Lam CoLLECtion with Gloss in Barely Gold and mascara in Black Black ($85, esteelauder.com) “Derek and I based this collection on who the Estée Lauder woman is, as well as who we are. The mascara is a gorgeous black in smaller packaging so it’s more practical in the clutch that we designed. Some women love a gloss—if you already have your signature lip color, you can add a little on top for a bit of shine.”

—tom PEChEux, CrEativE makEuP dirECtor for EstéE LaudEr doLCE & Gabbana sicilian Jewels lipsticks in amethyst, topaz, and ruBy ($35 each, saksFiFthavenue.com) perFect matte liquid Foundation in caramel, soFt saBle, and almond ($66 each, saksFiFthavenue.com) perFect matte concealer in soFt sand ($40, saksFiFthavenue.com) “The Sicilian Jewels collection is really special and inspired by the designers’ favorite and most precious stones. For the lipsticks, Amethyst’s bright purple pink is sophisticated with a sexy edge and works beautifully from day to night. Ruby is a gorgeous deep and seductive red, and the yellow gold shade Topaz is stunning—it works so well with a dramatic eye. The Perfect Matte Liquid Foundation and Concealer gives a long-lasting fnish while keeping the skin’s natural radiance.”

—Pat mcGrath, doLCE & Gabbana makEuP CrEativE advisor m.a.C CosmEtiCs maGnetic nude Fluidline in chilled ($16, maccosmetics.com) “This season is all about fresh, natural, enhanced beauty. The new Fluidline gel eyeliners are perfect at giving your look that subtle touch of color but keeping it gorgeous and glossy at the same time.”

—CharLottE tiLbury, intErnationaL makEuP artist rEvLon colorBurst lacquer Balm in Flirtatious and demure revlon colorBurst matte Balm in sultry ($9 each, revlon.com) “Each balm has great color payof, and because they also contain moisturizing ingredients, they don’t feel cakey or dry on lips. I’m so obsessed I used them at almost every show this past September.”

—GuCCi WEstman, rEvLon GLobaL artistiC dirECtor GivEnChy maGic kaJal eye pencil in maGic Black ($24, sephora.com) “This Givenchy pencil is nomadic—easy and fast to apply. It’s the blackest black and the result is a glistening shiny texture that is not super cosmetic. Instead the result is very believable, a true Indian kajal, slightly imperfect but adjustable, and you can apply it with a brush or your fngertips.”

—aaron dE mEy, sEPhora artistry ambassador 49


loUis vUitton chanel

versace

Balmain

JUnYa watanaBe

DknY

dress up denim Everyone’s favorite fabric gets a high-fashion upgrade

thomas tait cÉline

tommY hilfiGer

RUN AWAY TRENDS don't while away the winter wondering what to wear for spring. take your cues from one of the most directional seasons of recent memory. these five key trends are all you need for a stylish start to the new year!

praDa

BalenciaGa

GUcci artwork christopher favale fashion mia solkin 50

sporty spice Be the baller in the season’s athletic attire


MoScHIno cHeAP & cHIc

MoScHIno ALeXAnDeR McQUeen

DoLce & GABBAnA

MoncLeR GAMMe RoUGe

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI BURBeRRY PRoRSUM RAG & Bone

SPoRTMAX

DoLce & GABBAnA

cALVIn kLeIn coLLecTIon

seeing spots

BirDs oF a FeatHer

Girls just wanna have fun in playful polka-dot patterns

Flock with your clique in plumage-adorned pieces

cHAneL GIoRGIo ARMAnI

cÉLIne

PRADA

kenzo

painterly prints Wear your art on your sleeve with these creative brushstrokes


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PhOTOgRaPhy caRL kLeineR FashiOn Mia sOLkin

FROM TOP: FENDI Buggies PeekaBOO Bag PRADA PRinTed MOTiF saFFianO LeaTheR Bag GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI anTigOna cLuTch in TRiBaL giRL

Photo assistant Penny Tu

in your FACE

the accessory long considered a girl’s best friend is finally starting to look like one. this spring, beauty is in the eye of the bag holder


PRODUCTION, MEET CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHER: ANTOINE VERGLAS MODEL: SPENCER [ONE.1] MAKEUP: DONNA F [CHANEL] HAIR: DAVID COTTEBLANCHE [RED MARKET] STYLIST: BRANDY [NEXT]

S PLAS H LI G HT.CO M


power stepp ing

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Set design Jesse Kaufmann (Frank Reps) Photo assistant Corinne Weber Producer Dan Foley (Jed Root Inc.) Location ROOT Studios Catering Monterone

from LEft: PRADA MARC JACOBS MARNI GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO tISCI FENDI


high heels will always have their place, but don’t be afraid to go the extra mile in this season’s sporty sandals. you betta work! PhotograPhy dan forbes fashion mia solkin


four houses hit refresh four designers breathed new life into established brands.. and got the industry buzzing PhotograPhy BENJaMIN LENNoX fashIoN toM VaN DorPE 56

julien dossena for paco rabanne Thirty-year-old wunderkind Julien Dossena has taken the storied codes of Paco Rabanne and upped the mod factor. Girls will want to get their gams in order. Working his Balenciaga training, he showed miniskirts and dresses, a house signature, in diferent forms of molded plastic. A blend of durable yet delicate, tough but sweet. We can’t wait to see what’s next from this young upstart. CLOTHING AND SHOES PaCo raBaNNE


STEFANO PilATi FOR AGNONA During Milan Fashion Week, editors and buyers stopped by the new Agnona concept store, on Via Sant’Andrea, for a palate-cleansing look at the perennial oferings put forth by new creative director Stefano Pilati. The debut collection, which Pilati dubbed ZERO, came at the brand’s sixtieth anniversary and features the designer’s signature tomboy aesthetic: double-breasted blazers, low-slung skirts that sit on the hip, and other playful proportions. CLOTHING AGNONA SOCKS FALKE


Prop stylist Eli Metcalf (Marek & Associates) Photo assistants Ben Beagent, James Brodribb, Corey Jenkins, Ben Mills Stylist assistant Carrie Weidner Makeup assistants Akiko Owada and Laura Stiassni Hair assistant Ayae Yammamoto Production Bo Zhang (Management Artists) Prop stylist assistants Brian Bustos and Roy Delgado Casting Samuel Ellis Scheinman Location Pier 59 Studios, NY

fausto puglisi foR EMaNuEl uNgaRo A young Italian with lots of energy, Fausto Puglisi had already made waves with his eponymous line in Milan when he created an ooh-la-la moment in Paris for Spring. Rufes adorned nearly every piece, from silk button-down shirts to tuxedo pants to gowns, all the way down to footwear. A touch maximalist? Perhaps. But this is exactly the type of fun factor the house of Ungaro needed. CLOTHING AND SHOES EMANUEL UNGARO


Makeup Maud Laceppe for NARS Cosmetics (Streeters) Hair Diego Da Silva (Tim Howard Management) Models Lexi Boling and Kate Goodling (FORD NY), Devon Windsor (IMG), Kai Newman (One), Marine Deleeuw and Josephine Le Tutour (The Society) Manicure Kelly B. for M.A.C Cosmetics (Defacto) Digital technician Adam Leon (Pier 59 Digital)

AlessAndrA FAcchinetti FOr tOd’s Just how far has the driving shoe come? For Spring/Summer 2014, Alessandra Facchinetti took it all the way and then some. Adorned with color paillettes and plastic fringe, the slip-ons were shown in various shades and hues. As impressive as the accessories were Facchinetti’s ready-to-wear designs: shirt dresses and lasercut leather capes and minis. Lots of perforation. All in all? A pitch-perfect debut. CLOTHING AND BAG TOD’S


strokes of jeanius meet the masterminds behind six contemporary denim design houses. year after year, they expertly produce the pieces that shape the season and still last a lifetime photography adrian meŠko

calVin Klein Name and title: Kevin Carrigan, Global Creative Director for Calvin Klein Jeans How long have you been at CK? Fifteen years. I was hired by Mr. Klein himself, who few me over to New York for an interview and then basically said, “You’re going to love living here.” That was my interview. He had already done his homework. What is your design philosophy? I always try to look at the DNA of the brand. Then I look at a lot of things that people might bypass, like this season it was a basketball shirt, and put it together with the codes of Calvin so it means something new to a new tribe of people who are interested in minimalism. What are your tips for buying jeans? The engineering of jeans is pretty ferce. They are really difcult to make—the pinch, the stitching, the way the twin needle is done, the washing and whisking process, the drying factor, the stonewashing...There is love and handicraft and technology that goes into creating a fve-pocket jean that fts you. I always recommend trying on multiple pairs in all diferent sizes and washes. Just take time to fnd the right ft, since it is the piece that you will wear the most. Who is your ultimate denim icon? I have many, not just one. I do love when denim is involved in some kind of rebellion or social shift. Anything that upsets the norm. There is something cool about denim from each decade, and I want to continue doing that. From leFt: Kevin Carrigan, matt terry (ForD ny), anD tilDa linDstam (img) at Calvin Klein in new yorK

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7 for all mankind Name and title: Barry Miguel, President What is your design philosophy? Create the dream. What is your favorite denim image? Brooke Shields in the 1980s Calvin Klein ad How important is it to have denim in one’s wardrobe? It is the single most important item after the perfect white tee. How do you feel about jeggings? I would never wear them. What are your tips for wearing jeans properly? Never wash them. Who is your ultimate denim icon? Paul Newman What is your frst denim memory? Spending all of my money on a pair of Mustang Jeans in Europe Name and title: Jennifer Garcia, Women’s Denim Design Director What is your design philosophy? Design what we love. Can you describe your process? No, it’s a secret. How many jeans do you create per year? Over two million What is the most intricate step? Finding the perfect fabric and perfecting the ft What is your favorite denim image? Robert Plant How important is it to have denim in one’s wardrobe? Denim is an American classic that should be in everyone’s closet. If you could dress anyone in denim, who would it be? David Bowie How do you feel about jeggings? Jeggings feel amazing and are so comfortable, but authentic looking denim is where it is at! What are your tips for wearing jeans properly? The most important thing is to feel comfortable, confdent, and sexy! Who are your ultimate denim icons? Jane Birkin and Debbie Harry What is your frst denim memory? Wearing OshKosh B’gosh overalls as a 4 year old From leFt: Barry miguel, arthur keller (one.1), nolan d. (ny modelS), katja oppelt (Ford la), and jenniFer garcia at 7 For all mankind in loS angeleS

levi’s Name and title: Karyn Hillman, Chief Product Ofcer What is your design philosophy? Be inspired. Be passionate. Be innovative. Be influential. Take risks. Stay clear on your vision and your brand. Love what you do. How many pairs of jeans do you create per year? Over 5,000 How detailed is the process? The development of fit and the creation and selection of denim fabrics are at the beginning of the process. This is crucial when creating a jean. We develop superior, best-in-class fits. They are very specific, both technically and aesthetically. We have original, proprietary fits dating back to 1873, and we have iconic, proprietary fits of today, it’s truly amazing. Next is the denim fabric creation, which is critical to the fit of a jean. It can define the character, the look and feel and the quality of the jean, how it reacts on the body, performs, and wears over time. We then develop all of our own denim washes, finishes, treatments, colors, and formulas. It’s an ongoing process. Then we obsess over the details, the styling, and the craftsmanship— the stitching, sundries (hardware), pockets, branding, and design details. What people might not know is that we do a lot of this design development, research, and trial in our own innovation lab in San Francisco. I’m blown away by our teams on a daily basis. How important is it to have denim in one’s wardrobe? There’s nothing better than your favorite pair of jeans, the most loved, worn, article of clothing in your closet. They have seen the world, if only they could talk… What are your tips for wearing jeans properly? DIY shrink to ft, bathtub and all. Who is your ultimate denim icon? That’s easy. Levi Strauss. To be a part of this iconic brand, here in San Francisco, that he created 140 years ago, is simply phenomenal. It doesn’t get better than that. From leFt: micah (StarS), heather (look), karyn hillman, and achok (Scout) at levi’S in San FranciSco


Name and title: Paige Adams-Geller, Creative Director and Founder of Paige What is your design philosophy? I believe fashion should not be dictated. People should be able to create their own style that they feel comfortable living in. What is your design process like? The design process is a daily one. Creativity comes when it comes. However, usually we start the season of with a general theme based on our intuition. We translate that general theme into mood boards which then yield colors and the key fashion and basic silhouettes of the season to enable us to tell our story. How many pairs of jeans do you create per year? We have new designs every month with the volume varying at all times. What are the key steps for creating the perfect pair of jeans? It involves choosing the proper fabric and silhouette combination. From there the jeans need to be ft and tailored. Every diferent wash and fabric combo reacts diferently on the body, therefore we wear test everything we put on the line. We always aim for consistency and quality. What is your favorite denim image? Brooke Shields in her Calvin’s left such an everlasting impression. I also love Steve McQueen’s rugged denim style. How important is it to have denim in one’s wardrobe? It’s a must. Denim is the new contemporary fashion foundation. Because of its versatility, I can’t imagine living without it. From coated to zippered to authentic, there is something for everyone. If you could dress anyone in denim, who would it be? If I could dress anyone it would be David Bowie. I’m thrilled that Kate Moss and Gwen Stefani are my icons and they live in our jeans. I would adore seeing Marianne Faithful in Paige! How do you feel about jeggings? Jeggings are out and ultra skinnies are in. From leFt: arthur Keller (one.1), Camille yi (ForD la), anD Paige aDams-gellar at Paige in los angeles

j brand Name and title: Donald Oliver, Creative Director What is your design philosophy? Less is more. I love the quote from Terre des Hommes, by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, that says “Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Perhaps one day I will achieve that as a design philosophy. Can you describe your design process? We start with fabric and vintage samples, then we look at street style and fashion to get inspired. We then go into wash development and patterning to create the perfect fts for the season. How many pairs of jeans do you create per year? The team creates about 150 jeans a season in our women’s collection alone, men’s is about 50, and we do four major seasons a year. They are not all adopted, but they are all designed and developed, so it’s a lot of work and a lot of people are involved. What’s the most intricate step to designing that people probably don’t even know about? There are so many diferent parts to the development and design, but what I love about jeans and the denim design process is that it is never an exact science, mistakes happen and things are created by those mistakes. When water, wash, and fnishing is involved and you are working with indigo, anything can happen. What are your tips for wearing jeans properly? I think I would have to say that there are no rules to wearing a jean except to wear them with confdence and make sure you feel good in them. That’s the greatness in a pair of jeans; they are meant to feel and appear efortless. What is your frst denim memory? I can’t believe I’m about to tell you this...It’s a photograph of me wearing a pair of dungarees when I was about 16. They were way too tight and not very fattering at all. Perhaps that is why I chose to go into fashion, to hopefully create something that was more fattering and appealing than those dungarees. From leFt: Katy (ForD la), DonalD oliver, anD lane Carlson (ForD ny) at J BranD in los angeles

Makeup (Levi’s) Yvette Swallow (Aubri Balk) Hair (Levi’s) David Tolls (Workgroup Ltd.) Photo assistant Liam Fox O’Brien

paige


Makeup Diane Da Silva (Atelier Management) Hair Charles McNair (Jed Root Inc.) Makeup (Calvin Klein) Yasuo Yoshikawa (L’Atelier NYC) Hair (Calvin Klein) Erika Svedjevik (L’Atelier NYC) Manicure (Calvin Klein) Casey (Kate Ryan Inc.)

guess Name and title: Sharleen Ernster, Chief Design Ofcer What is your design philosophy? My philosophy is to create something meaningful. Designers are the originators of ideas that become products, create jobs, and create a product for people to buy because it makes them feel better. How many pairs of jeans do you create per year? Upwards of 1,000 designs a year created across men’s and women’s collections. It’s hard to count because every wash or variation on a ft is another design. I read recently that 59 pairs of jeans are sold every second…wild. What are the key steps for creating a decent pair of jeans? Every piece of denim is created individually. There can be upwards of 20 processes on a pair of jeans and endless variations in those processes. Each step is key. What’s amazing about denim is that it requires a global choreography across each piece to create a consistent end product. It takes hundreds of people across multiple steps, each replicating the same step, calculation, choreography, and repetition. Like a huge orchestra… What is your favorite denim image? Truthfully, it’s Claudia Schifer wearing the classic black lace bustier and the original GUESS high-waisted jean. What a beauty! It completely changed my view of denim as fashion. What are your tips for wearing jeans properly? Someone should write a book about all the tips of wearing and washing and not washing and showering in your jeans. The most important tip is love the ft you buy so you feel confdent in them. Who is your ultimate denim icon? That’s a hard one, but being from small-town Texas, I fnd the cowboy is the most iconic reference. The sexiness of the utility of denim, the personalization of it, the real authentic beginning. I love that image and how it’s transcended time and gender and evolved into fashion…so cool. From leFt: Sharleen ernSter, JoShua KloSS (Dna), anD Samantha hoopeS (elite) at GueSS in loS anGeleS


praise the LOrDe!

Ella Yelich-O’Connor may be the coolest 17-year-old in the world, though she would never admit it. Better known by her stage name, Lorde, which comes from a long-standing fascination with opulence, the young New Zealander who took the world by storm last year with her standout debut single, “Royals,” still can’t quite believe the level of her celebrity. “It’s pretty mental, really. I made this music in New Zealand at 15 years old with my producer, who was 28—just these two random losers, really. Now all these people like it, and they care about what I have to say, which is nice, because I’m the weirdo for sure. For the most part, people have been really supportive. I feel very grateful.” 64

The frst time V spoke with Lorde, she was 16 and had just released her debut EP, The Love Club, worldwide. She was fying to the United States to play her frst (sold-out) show in New York City. Since then she has become a household name, having broken a number of U.S. Billboard records. She is the youngest artist in 25 years to reach the number one spot on the chart, and the frst female to top the alternative chart in 17 years. When speaking with her, you would never guess that Lorde is as young as she is. Despite her incredulity about her fame, she speaks about her work with confdence and the intelligence of someone who has complete understanding of the industry in which she works. “I’ve been involved with record companies since I was 12, so I’m no stranger to sitting in the boardroom and telling a bunch of people way older than me exactly how things need to be. I think having almost grown up in that setting, having that being totally normal, has helped me be good at being assertive about the things that are important to me.” Unafraid to speak her mind and a self-described feminist amid a generation of sexualized young pop stars who routinely strip down, Lorde is being heralded as a role model for young girls—a fact she fnds very strange. “People like to paint me in a certain way, but I’m a hugely sex-positive person and I have nothing against anyone getting naked. For me personally I just don’t think it really would complement my music in any way or help me tell a

story any better. It’s not like I have a problem with dancing around in undies—I think you can use that stuf in a hugely powerful way. It just hasn’t felt necessary for me.” Marching to her own beat is clearly working for Lorde. She became famous not thanks to a marketing team or an A&R scheme, but because she uploaded music to the Internet that people liked—a sign to her that things may be shifting in the music industry. “The power and control is with the young people now. It seems like for a while the pop industry has been run by a bunch of 40-year-olds. I feel like maybe that’s about to change. There are young people doing such incredible things creatively at the moment. It feels good.” Following the success of her debut album, Pure Heroine, Lorde has managed to fnd the balance between her ascending career and staying true to her roots. She’s currently developing her next project, traveling the world for shows and television appearances and also going to high school dances, all the while enjoying the newfound freedom of fnally getting her own bedroom after sharing one with her older sister for years. If that’s not a true measure of success, we don’t know what is. william defebaugh lorde in new york city, october 2013 PhotograPhy PhiliPPe vogelenzang fashion delPhine danhier lorde wears dress lacoste pure heroine is out now from universal music group

Makeup Kristin Gallegos using CHANEL (CLM) Hair Thomas Dunkin (The Wall Group) Manicure Honey (Exposure NY) Digital technician Charles Lu Photo assistant Pavel Woznicki Stylist assistant Ashlee Henderson Location Splashlight Studios, NY

a Precocious teen songstress and self-Proclaimed weirdo, lorde has skyrocketed to international stardom. while she may Be the Voice of a new generation, Back home she’s still the girl who Just got her own Bedroom


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t h e d e n i m i s s u e KATE UPTON cONqUErs All WIllOW sMITH vIsITs PArIs IN sTylE IsElIN sTEIrO sTAlKs THE sTrEETs OF l.A. AlEX PETTyFEr AND GABrIEllA WIlDE GET clOsE THE v MAGAzINE & FOrD MODEl sEArcH FINAlIsTs rEvEAlED KrIsTEN WIIG KEEPs HOllyWOOD GUEssING AND JUNyA WATANABE GrABs THE sEAsON By THE FrINGE


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From catalogs to commercials to cover-only mandates For top Fashion bibles, the ascent oF Kate Upton has been anything bUt ordinary. now, set to appear alongside cameron diaz and leslie mann in this spring’s revenge comedy the other woman, the First sUpermodel to become a hoUsehold name in a decade is bracing herselF For hollywood stardom. only in america photography inez & vinoodh Fashion nicola Formichetti text horacio silva 68


SHIRT and VEST #DIESELTRIBUTE BY NICOLA FORMICHETTI

Kate Upton may be one of the most desirable women on the planet, a crossover star when no one else would. “She walks into a room and she kills it—some can and some who has successfully made the leap from the salt mines of modeling to the high-fashion can’t. People tend to focus on how bubbly she is, but she is also extremely ambitious.” arena, but don’t hate her because she is beautiful. By Upton’s own reckoning there was never any Plan B, and the idea to go into modAs Upton explains, with made-for-talk-show candor that belies her usual perky self, eling full-time, hatched as a 15-year-old obsessed with the charter members of the catalog modeling is not as easy as it appears, and her journey from nowhere to every- Swimsuit Sisterhood of Cindy, Nikki, Heidi, and Co., was hers alone. (The only condiwhere has come at a price. tion set by Upton’s “ridiculously supportive” mother, Shelley, was that she had to fnish Sort of. “I now sufer from Catalog Tourette’s,” says the 21-year-old Michigan-born her high school degree online with a view to attending college.) sexplosion, in a cheeky attempt at deadpan that quickly dissolves into a hearty chortle. Even before she decided, at 18, to hightail it to New York, because things weren’t “I can switch a pose like it’s no one’s business,” she adds, with accompanying sorta- moving fast enough in her adopted Florida, she made sure to do her homework. kinda-maybe vogueing moves. “As soon as I hear a camera click, I’m on. I tell you, it’s “My life isn’t as manufactured as people think,” she offers, in between sips of cofa serious nervous condition.” fee. “I have dreams and I express them. But it’s a business and you have to be a We are sitting by the pool on the rooftop of Soho House in New York’s Meatpacking good observer if you want to do your job properly.” For the starry-eyed newbie this District, and Upton, virtually unrecognizable in clothes, let alone regulation Frockville meant assiduously poring over magazines and videos and memorizing the poses black (Givenchy and Barbara Bui, for the record), is clearly in a playful mood. and pouts of her favorite models. And if she doesn’t possess Tyra Banks’s 275 tradeThe thought of her having a Pavlovian response to the sound of a camera is amus- mark smiles or Coco Rocha’s ability to seemingly conjure every couture pose in the ing (no wonder she claims to be uninterested in click-click-click runway work). But book, then so be it.   to spend time with the personable Upton is to know that even when she is writhing “I don’t compare myself with other models,” Upton says, sitting upright, her perfect around in the backseat of a convertible Cadillac for a Carl’s Jr. Super Bowl commer- posture betraying years of competitive horseback riding. (According to Upton mytholcial that was so hot it was banned, she is still very serious about her hotter-than- ogy, she holds fve world titles.) “For me, modeling is really about competing with yourHades career. self, becoming the best you can be. But the truth is that I can’t do facial expressions “Kate has an incredible joie de vivre,” says Ivan Bart, the starmaker at IMG who like Coco and others do. If I pull a goofy face, it doesn’t look cute; I look like a dying took a risk with Upton and her Marilyn Monroe–esque brand of All-American glamour animal. But I guess someone likes what I am doing.”


“If I pull a goofy face, It doesn’t look cute; I look lIke a dyIng anImal. but I guess someone lIkes what I am doIng.”—kate upton

SHIRT, VEST, LEGGINGS #DIESELTRIBUTE BY NICOLA FORMICHETTI NECKLACE INEZ & VINOODH oN EyES, M.A.C COSMETICS EyE KoHL IN SmoLdER oN LIpS, M.A.C COSMETICS SHEEN SupREmE LIpSTICK IN fuLL SpEEd


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No kidding. Since the curvaceous cutie frst burst onto the scene, in 2011, with a A straight shooter if ever there was one, she is more than aware that her formidamulti-platform attack that included hijacking social media with her “Dougie” tuto- ble bod, not her delivery, is the focus of worldwide attention—particularly her D-cup breasts, which could well have a SAG card of their own. rials, her high-fashion debut—by photographer Sebastian Faena and famed editor Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, in the pages of this magazine—and landing the Sports “Ah, the ladies,” she says, looking down at her cleavage with devil-may-care abandon. Illustrated Swimsuit Issue cover (twice), she has become the fashion industry’s new “Everyone brings them up, so I have to have something to call them.” Although she is the certifed superdupermodel. benefciary of the positive buzz that social media can bestow, Upton claims to be more “She has global appeal,” says Nicola Formichetti, who styled her for this shoot. “To than a little embarrassed by some of the attention she and the ladies receive online: a me, she is more than fashion. She puts the clothes on and she’s still Kate. In fash- recent video posted on YouTube featuring 10 hours of her bajoingles bouncing up and ion we try to force these head-to-toe looks on the girls and turn them into these down in slow motion has received approximately two million views (and counting). “Not to ofend anyone,” she explains, “but in my opinion that’s the downside of the characters, but she is always Kate. It’s actually very rare, and only the supermodels transcend fashion in that way. It’s almost like she’s an actress. She’s an actress job. Having grown up in Florida, where you practically live in a bikini, you don’t think playing a model.” that when you go out to the beach that people are going to do that. It’s a little embarNow, with her supporting role in this April’s The Other Woman, a latter-day First rassing, but you have to learn to get over it. Although I think I have gotten to a place Wives Club revenge comedy starring Cameron Diaz and Leslie Mann, Upton is set to where I don’t let the Internet control my emotions.” show of her acting chops and further insinuate herself into the collective consciousness. While she can deal with the virtual gaze of her mammary-obsessed male fan base, one “I was completely out of my league,” she says of her three months on set with her more barb from the X-chromosome camp managed to get under her skin. In an interview last established costars. “I make no bones about it. But I just listened and paid attention. year with the New York Times, an infuential editor who consults for Victoria’s Secret Cameron and Leslie were the most amazingly friendly and helpful people—very inspiring. It was quoted as saying that she would never consider using Upton in the televised specsounds hokey, but it was a dream come true for me to work with them on my frst real movie.” tacular because her all-American looks were too infra dig for the purveyor of push-up Upton, who previously had cameos in Tower Heist and The Three Stooges, the latter bras and seductive lifestyle fragrances. of which incensed some Catholics because she posed as a nun in a bikini, has no delu“You have to remember that I was 19 when she said that,” explains Upton, “and I had sions of being tapped to play Hedda Gabler anytime soon. just gotten my cover of Sports Illustrated that day. Literally that day. So it didn’t really


DreSS anD Coat lOUIS VUITTON f/w 2013 neCklaCe INEZ & VINOODH

afect me at frst. But it did in the end, because I wasn’t used to that kind of media swirl at all. I had never met her, so it really came out of nowhere. It was my introduction to being in the spotlight and having people you’ve never met have an opinion of you.” Upton and the ladies are not going anytime soon, especially now that she is doing the cha-cha-cha with Maksim Chmerkovskiy from Dancing With The Stars, a fact that she begrudgingly confrms, with an uncharacteristically guarded, economical “yes” and a nervous smile. Maybe it’s a result of her recent media training—which she takes with a pinch of sodium chloride, preferring instead to rely on advice from her “competitive, but grounded” family—or perhaps it’s the result of her years as a champion rider, but she appears ready for any coming battles. At the recent FGI Fashion Awards in New York, Upton presented to Carine Roitfeld, who featured her on the cover of the inaugural issue of her namesake magazine,  CR Fashion Book (thanks to a gentle suggestion from Bruce Weber). She won over the fashion power-player audience when she thanked the legendary Roitfeld for actually featuring her in clothes. But don’t expect her to be covering up as a matter of course. Kate Upton has a slamming body and doesn’t care who knows or sees it.  “You know what,” Upton says. “I recognize that some things are out of my control, but the way I deal with those situations largely defnes who I am. So I really want to be a good example for women. I think that women today go through that level of scrutiny every single day. We put so much pressure on ourselves, but I want women to see that you don’t have to do these crash diets. You can eat healthy, be healthy, and be the best you can be.”

Safe to assume, then, that no one these days tells her to eat less because she has a big gig coming up. “Are you kidding?” she asks incredulously. “I tell myself that all the time! Sometimes I listen and sometimes I regret not listening, but it’s all right. There are moments all the time in my life, whether it’s my time of the month or I’ve been traveling a lot, where I don’t look my best. It happens, but it’s not life-ending, and I think that’s what people have to realize.”

Makeup aaron De Mey for Sephora (art partner) hair Shay aShual (tiM howarD ManageMent) MoDel kate upton (iMg) Manicure Deborah LippMann (The MagneT agency) creaTive MoveMenT DirecTor STephen gaLLoway (ThecoLLecTiveShifT) LighTing DirecTor JoDokuS DrieSSen DigiTaL Technician brian anDerSon phoTo aSSiSTanT Joe huMe STyLiST aSSiSTanT Sean nguyen Makeup aSSiSTanT TayLer TreaDweLL hair aSSiSTanT Taichi SaiTo proDucTion STephanie bargaS anD Lauren piSToia (ThecoLLecTiveShifT) vLM STuDio Manager Marc kroop vLM prinT proDucer Jeff Lepine reTouching STereohorSe LocaTion pier 59 STuDioS, ny caTering SMiLe To go


a seasoned pro at the age of 13, willow smith is no longer driven by big-budget productions and hair-flipping hits. get the status update on hollywood’s most imperial teen photography karl lagerfeld fashion carlyne cerf de dudzeele 76

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T-SHIRT WILLOW’S OWN EARRINGS GIVENCHY bY rICCardo tIsCI ON EyES, EstÉE laudEr SumpTuOuS INfINITE dARING LENGTH + vOLumE mAScARA IN bLAck


this spread: CLOthing WiLLOW’s OWn aCCessOries and jeWeLry CHANEL On eyes, EstéE LAudEr dOubLe Wear ZerO-smudge Liquid eyeLiner in bLaCk


CLOTHing AnD ACCESSORiES KARL LAGERFELD SKYLAR wEARS JACKET, JEAnS, SHOES HER Own T-SHiRT AnD ACCESSORiES KARL LAGERFELD

She was a pop princess at the age of nine and poised for movie stardom by 11, having been cast as Annie in an update of the beloved musical. But right now, just two days shy of her thirteenth birthday, on Halloween, what Willow Smith wants to be more than anything is a seventh grader. Sitting on a velvet couch in her mother Jada Pinkett Smith’s luxe, earthy-chic ofce at Sony Pictures in Culver City, dressed in a purple vintage sweatshirt with fowers and butterfies on it, striped sweatpants, and Doc Martens, her typically colored and cropped hair now black with girlish bangs, that’s exactly what she looks like. As it turns out, seventh grade is “really hard,” says Willow. The reality of storing your books in a locker, fnding your classes, and “being responsible for your own stuf” is new territory for someone accustomed to tutors. And then there’s all the schoolwork. However, she says, “I’m enjoying just being independent and doing my own thing.” This past February, Willow ofcially dropped out of Annie, which her father, Will Smith, is producing alongside Jay Z, having decided that her heart wasn’t in it. “I just wanted to chill, and be at home, and decompress, and just fnd out what I wanna do and where I stand on this planet, with the little tiny place we have.” These are big, heavy concerns coming from one so young, but then it was her poise and self-possession that had everyone from Justin Bieber to Ellen DeGeneres smitten when “Whip My Hair” frst dropped in 2010. Of course her fearless, innate fashion sense didn’t hurt either. “I can never tell what I’m gonna wear,” Willow says. “I kind of just put on what feels right. Sometimes that’s Converse and a T-shirt, sometimes it’s Givenchy heels and leather pants.” Karl Lagerfeld and fashion editor Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele certainly noticed. For the shoot featured here they asked Willow to bring some of her own pieces to Paris, so they could mix it up. Boy-drag boxer shorts and oxford shoes? Straight out of her closet. Willow describes Lagerfeld as “very, very friendly and open.” She giggles. “I thought he

was gonna be really mysterious, like peering over his glasses, evaluating. But he was just awesome. I don’t have words, because he’s such a huge icon.” Not that she has any plans to do more modeling. “I just wanna do things that make me feel good and not stressed”—these are her rules. After being an active presence on Twitter, sharing her life philosophies and her crush on the literary misft Holden Caulfeld, she has stopped tweeting, preferring to sit in her garden with her Yorkie, Abby, and “meditate and get the energy from the fowers.” She doesn’t have a meditation practice per se, “I just chill and open my eyes and think, just relaxing and being silent. Because the world is so loud.” It’s almost unfathomable that a girl on the cusp of her teenage years would turn away from the very things her peers dream of, but this is the extraordinary being that Willow is. One moment she’s a kid, talking about watching Daria after school, eating In-N-Out burgers, and rereading the Twilight series in bed at night, the next she’s discussing selfhelp books and how listening to the ’70s all-girl band The Runaways “just makes me feel so powerful, as a woman, just like, yes! I know who I am! Roarrr! Know what I mean?” She hasn’t given up making music; it’s part of her daily life, particularly now that her brother Jaden is recording songs and her mother has revived her band, Wicked Wisdom, which Willow describes as melodic heavy metal. But perhaps after the to-do caused by her last single, “Summer Fling,” whose subject matter some felt was too grown-up, she says she wants to “keep it for myself.” Occasionally she’ll put something up on SoundCloud, like the song “Drowning,” which she wrote and recorded with her friend Mecca Kalani, but she’s being patient and holding her cards close. “I just feel like I want to do it diferent than the world’s ready for,” Willow says. “It’s like a pearl—I’m reading that book right now. You put a piece of sand in it, which is the imagination. You close it over a bunch of years, making it awesome, and then Bam! It comes open. And I’m it! I’m the pearl.” StEFFiE NELSoN


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sleep all day. party all night. never grow old. never die. vamping out with the lost boys of venice beach in spring’s most hell-raising hits, the immortally cool iselin steiro proves that it’s fun being a twisted sister photography Josh olins fashion clare richardson 84


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on valentine’s day, Get ready to be dazzled by enGland’s finest exports. beautiful actors (and former burberry campaiGn stars) alex pettyfer and Gabriella Wilde have come toGether to set cinemas ablaze With endless love photoGraphy sebastian faena fashion delphine danhier 98


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"The poinT of iT for me is To discover new Things and be challenged. no acTor wanTs To be TypecasT." —gabriella wilde

Who better than a pair of gorgeous Brits to tackle an American cult classic? This 2011 with consecutive roles as a futuristic voyager, in the dystopian thriller In Time, as Valentine’s Day, watch Alex Pettyfer and Gabriella Wilde lust after one another in the the Beast to Vanessa Hudgens’s Beauty, in the fairy tale update Beastly, and as a teen alien on the run, in the sci-f adventure I Am Number Four. retelling of Scott Spencer’s forlorn love story Endless Love. The flm serves up a heavy dose of sexual awakening via plenty of steamy scenes between two of the fnest young It wasn’t until the summer of 2012, though, with his turn as an eager but naive stripactors in cinema today—it’s a casting miracle that will get anyone hot and bothered per in Magic Mike, that audiences truly understood the gravitas behind his many lay(frst daters, take note).  ers. A bevy of young It Girls took notice—Pettyfer has since been linked (and inked) While Franco Zefrelli’s original 1981 adaptation starred Brooke Shields and Martin to the likes of Emma Roberts, Dianna Agron, and Riley Keough. Now Gabriella Wilde Hewitt (the flm birthed the song “Endless Love,” by Lionel Richie and Diana Ross), is on his roster, if only for our viewing pleasure.  this updated version has considerable twists, according to Wilde, who credits the The flm marks the second remake in a row for fellow Burberry alum Wilde, who director and independent flmmaker Shana Feste (Country Strong) with heightening played empathetic high schooler Sue Snell in this past fall’s Carrie, alongside Julianne the intrigue. You know the tale: a beautiful rich girl falls for a working-class bad boy Moore and Chloë Moretz. But Wilde might have more in common with her Endless Love against her father’s wishes. Their union is unbreakable, their hearts beat as one, and character, Jade Butterfeld. Born into an aristocratic family, Wilde, whose given name then BOOM, drama ensues… “But there is a lot more going on in this movie than two is Gabriella Zanna Vanessa Anstruther-Gough-Calthorpe, is about to give birth to her kids falling in love,” says Wilde over the phone from her London fat. “It’s a bit edgier.”  frst child, with fancé Alan Pownall, frontman of the electronic band Pale. (Fittingly, For Pettyfer, it’s the simplicity of the flm that he likes most: “Our movie is a lot more her nickname among close friends and family is Bumpy, “morphed from Bumbly Bee,” lighthearted than the original, but still a beautiful love story,” he says while walking she says.) The sirenlike beauty is no stranger to inhabiting privileged environments, his brown and black pup, Salem, on the streets of Beverly Hills. “The problems in the having ofcially arrived, also in 2011, as the Queen of France’s lady-in-waiting in The movie are simplistic, but so truthful—it’s about pure love.” Three Musketeers, alongside rising actor Logan Lerman. “The point of it for me is to We swoon. discover new things and be challenged,” says Wilde. “No actor wants to be typecast. The Windsor–bred Pettyfer, who has appeared in Burberry campaigns lensed by Feeling really safe as an actor is not a great thing because you’re not learning or growing. In Squatters, I play a homeless girl who has grown up in a trailer park.” Mario Testino and graced the cover of VMAN, frst tested his acting chops in a primary school production of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. The curly blond played Willy Pettyfer also prefers the macabre over the mundane. “I think I am most vulnerable Wonka, and to this day credits his mum for jump-starting his love of acting. Not long when I have to be somewhat like myself and be more charming and lovable,” says the Los Angeles transplant, who moonlights as an amateur race car driver. “It’s easier for after, he scored his second lead role, in 2005, with the laddy TV movie Tom Brown’s Schooldays. With his obvious talent and Grecian God good looks—he played every sport me to play darker roles. To open yourself up and open your heart, it’s a scary thing. It’s in school, swimming, soccer, etc., he says—Pettyfer was catapulted into Hollywood in a scary thing in life, let alone in a movie.”  Kate Branch


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“It's easIer for me to play darker roles. to open yourself up and open your heart, It's a scary thIng. It's a scary thIng In lIfe, let alone In a movIe.” —alex pettyfer


LAST FALL, V MAGAZINE AND FORD MODELS CONDUCTED A WORLDWIDE SEARCH TO FIND THE NEWEST FACES OF FASHION. MEET THE CONTEST WINNER, IESHA, AND RUNNERS-Up, ANGELICA AND RACHELLE, ALL OF WHOM ARE MAKING THEIR INDUSTRY DEBUTS IN THE MOST MEMORABLE LOOKS FROM THE SpRING/SUMMER 2014 SEASON pHOTOGRApHY KACpER KASpRZYK FASHION ROBBIE SpENCER 1 04

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ANGELICA CoopEr Age: 17 Hometown: Vancouver, British Columbia When did you know you were interested in modeling? When I was younger people always told me I looked like I could do it, and I always dreamed of it. Probably since I was about 10. Whom do you look up to in the fashion industry? I love Kate Moss. And Miranda Kerr, she’s so gorgeous. And Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. Where do you hope to be in 10 years? Hopefully successful. I’m just trying to play the cards I’ve been given! CLOTHING PRADA


“i’ve always dreamed of being in a magazine and winning this contest is definitely a dream come true!”—iesha, winner of the v magazine & ford model search

iesha hodges Age: 18 Hometown: Brooklyn, New York What do you think you can bring to modeling that’s unique? Personality! Energy! Optimism! I love meeting people, greeting people, and learning about them. Personality and great energy are everything. Who or what is your spirit animal? A lion! I have the heart of a lion, someone who is strong, passionate, and a leader. What’s your style vibe? It’s me. It’s whatever I’m feeling in the morning, that’s how I dress. My mood describes how I dress and wherever I decide to go. CLOTHING AND SHOES PRADA SUNGLASSES STYLIST’S OWN


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rachelle Age: 17 Hometown: Vancouver, British Columbia When did you know you were interested in modeling? Lots of people admired my height when I was younger and told me I should try modeling. What’s your sign? Leo! Fire signs are my specialty. Do you work out? I run. I don’t go to the gym, but I need to start! Show season is coming up, and if I’m going to be a part of that I want to be in tip-top shape.

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From her early days at groundlings to the hallowed halls oF saturday night live to breakthrough hollywood blockbusters, kristen wiig has made a career out oF celebrating the absurd. while she wouldn’t have it any other way, her latest endeavors include more dramatic roles, learning to play music, and steering clear oF jimi hendrix’s Friendly ghost photography terry richardson Fashion heathermary jackson 116


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“when i first wanted to start acting, i was probably drawn to drama first and then i got into comedy, but i hope i can do a bunch of different things. i want to direct, i want to write more, and, i don’t know, do music and paint.”—kristen wiig

She may be one of the most-adored actresses in recent memory, but to get a true sense “Marielle Streep for Hope Floats, she was one sassy sherif!”) In January the duo will rise of just how concerned Kristen Wiig is with her rising celebrity status one only needs again in the Matt Piedmont-directed The Spoils of Babylon, on IFC. “It’s so fun to shoot to visit her official website. While some of her famous counterparts chronicle their something dramatic for comedy and just be so over-the-top,” she says. Comprised of every waking moment in Chrome and live or die by likes, Wiig’s online destination six episodes, the miniseries is an ’80s-style soap-opera spoof depicting a rags-to-riches features a curious illustration of the actress by her friend Jason Polan accompanied family with an all-star cast of Tobey Maguire, as her adopted brother and lover, and Tim by a short bit of text: “Kristen Wiig is not on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, MySpace, Robbins, as their dad, with cameos by Jessica Alba, Val Kilmer, and Haley Joel Osment. or any other social networking website.” This isn’t a ruse. There is no secret alias Ferrell plays Eric Jonrosh, a forlorn author whose best-selling novel is the basis of the account floating about. Wiig actually means it. In fact, over an hour-long coffee talk show. (He introduces each segment from the confnes of a candlelit steak house banone realizes that for all of her fantastical characters, the woman herself is actually quette.) “We’re embracing that old-school dramatic miniseries acting style and music,” rather quiet and quite sincere. says Wiig. “There are over-the-top scenarios with people dying and fres. You name it, “I never go on the Internet and I’m not a computer-tech person,” she says, sound- it’s all in there.” The Funny or Die producers even created a subplot centered on a faux ing unintentionally green. “I love talking on the phone. But it’s funny when you call documentary featuring the Babylon actors as ’70s-era thespians. “I wasn’t Kristen on someone instead of texting, it’s like Are you okay, what’s wrong, why are you calling?” set, I was called Lauoreighiya Samcake,” says Wiig. How meta.   This notion of connectivity (or lack thereof ) was a key plot line for Wiig’s holiday Having successfully ticked the comedy box, Wiig has recently expanded her repertoire vehicle, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, an adaptation from the short story by James with more dramatic roles. Both Mitty and last year’s Girl Most Likely were departures Thurber, directed by and costarring Ben Stiller. Wiig plays the wonderfully normal from her usual slapstick characters. On the horizon are Craig Johnson’s The Skeleton Cheryl, a recently divorced single mother and photo researcher at Life magazine. The Twins, in which she and Hader play twins who are reunited after each separately escapes object of Mitty’s afections, she unknowingly inspires him to wake up from his day- death; Welcome to Me, where Wiig stars as a woman with borderline personality disordreaming stupor and face life head-on. It’s a hard-core feel-good flm, one that sees der who wins the lottery and buys her own talk show; and Nasty Baby, alongside Alia Mitty traveling to the farthest reaches of the globe to track down a vagabond photog- Shawkat, directed by Sebastian Silva (Crystal Fairy), in which a gay couple are trying rapher played by Sean Penn. In the flm, Wiig delivers the movie’s seminal message, to have a child with the help of their best friend. Given Wiig’s propensity for elasti“Life is about courage and going into the unknown.” cized characters, those who don’t know better might be bracing for hilarity. But these The actress’s career dovetails with the sentiment. After growing up in rural com- projects are not intended to be full-on farce. In fact, the actress is most excited about munities in both Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and Rochester, New York, she attended the Silva’s movie, which is considered a straight drama (i.e., one that doesn’t even broach University of Arizona to study art and ended up taking an acting class out of curiosity. the drama-comedy divide). “I don’t try to switch it up just to switch it up,” she says. “I A few years and a smattering of odd jobs later, the burgeoning star found her footing think some people are like, Oh wow, well, why are you doing drama now? When I frst in L.A. as a member of the Groundlings improv comedy troupe. It wasn’t long before wanted to start acting, I was probably drawn to drama frst and then I got into comedy, she caught Lorne Michael’s eye at Saturday Night Live, where she proved her mettle but I hope I can do a bunch of diferent things. I want to direct, I want to write more, for fve years alongside the likes of Will Ferrell, Bill Hader, Andy Samberg, and Jason and, I don’t know, do music and paint.” Sudeikis, all of whom she afectionately refers to as “brothers.” She’s famously already made the quantam leap as a screenwriter with 2011’s “I think subconsciously I always knew that I wanted to be a performer,” she says. Bridesmaids (along with her best friend, Annie Mumolo), and while they are working “But I also just thought that every kid likes to perform in front of the mirror. I also on something new (“it will be very diferent”), Wiig is also quite musically inclined these came from a town where no one really left and said, I’m going to Hollywood, I’m going days, writing lyrics and practicing guitar on her own. “I don’t think I’m good enough to try be an actor.” to say the sentence ‘I play music,’ but I’m trying, I’m learning. I’m teaching myself the Her brave demeanor served her well during the flming of Mitty. That scene where guitar, I’ve written a couple of songs, but I’m not going to be going up in any cofee shop she plays acoustic guitar and sings “Space Oddity?” Yes, all her. “I hope Bowie likes soon. I’m not good enough yet.” it,” she says sheepishly. “I’m such a huge Bowie fan, and that song is so anthemic. It’s The rest of 2014 will see how the hoi polloi relate to her character choices. In the just an amazing song.” meantime, she doesn’t really care one way or the other. “People know you how they Wiig recorded the tune at the Electric Lady studio, famously founded by Jimi Hendrix, know you, which I always say,” Wiig concedes. “I don’t even know if that makes any in 1970. The legendary guitarist only spent a few weeks there before his untimely death, sense, but if you know someone is a comedian and they do a dramatic role, you’re like, but don’t ask if she was summoning his muse. “I’m afraid of ghosts,” says Wiig in all I didn’t know that they wanted to do that. People are always very surprised.” seriousness. “I’m sure he’d be very friendly though. Jimi the friendly ghost!” Perhaps if people don’t like her creative choices, they can go ahead and tweet about it. At the end of last year, the Ferrell-Wiig tag team reunited for more high jinx in The actress is too busy living her life to worry about such matters anyway. SARAH CRISTOBAL Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues. (It’s clear that the SNL cronies are one another’s perfect foil, as evidenced by their unrehearsed shtick at the 2013 Golden Globes: The SpoilS of BaBylon premiereS on ifC on January 9


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known for his sculptural forms, artist and photographer nicholas alan cope takes inspiration from junya watanabe, juxtaposing his own creations with those of the inventive japanese designer. in paris, watanabe exalted denim, fringe, folklore, goa rave, dreadlocks, and deconstruction to extravagant new heights. here, the collection is seen through a new lens, exclusively for v photography nicholas alan cope fashion patti wilson 1 22


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LAST WORD BLASBERG

inquisitive editor-at-large derek BlasBerg sits down with giorgio armani to discuss fashion, film, and the designer’s favorite american aphorisms INTERVIEW DEREK BLASBERG PhoToGRAPhy ADRIAN MEšKo

Do you like any other American cities? GA Los Angeles, Sunset Boulevard. It is such an immense city, so diferent from European ones. It is the cradle of cinema and the type of glamour that dreams are made of.  Since starting your label, have you ever worn a suit designed by someone other than Giorgio Armani? GA No, I’ve only ever worn my own clothes. It’s a natuDerek Blasberg and Giorgio Armani ral choice, don’t you think? Do you have a muse? fip through a copy of V in the GA Many. Certain gardesigner’s uptown ofce ments are created especially for some of them, Welcome to New York! like the decidedly eccentric dress I designed for Lady Giorgio Armani I love it here. It’s a city in continuous, Gaga. But I shouldn’t name names when it comes to constant evolution, with inexhaustible energy. my muses. I would forget someone and I wouldn’t hear Do you remember your frst time? the end of it…  GA How could I forget? It was 1979; I came to collect OK, let’s talk about dead people then. What histhe Neiman Marcus Award, which was a big deal for an torical figure would you like to have designed for?  Italian at the time. I was just starting out, and when I GA As a designer, the past has never attracted me. I arrived my idea of New York was entirely based on flms. admire historical fgures, in particular the emancipated For me it was a city of pure fantasy, made up of black- women of the 1920s, like Zelda Fitzgerald. But I am more and-white images. interested in dressing modern women. Which flms? Who’s the frst person that you think of when you GA Mostly the flms of Fred Astaire, but also  Mean think of a modern woman? Streets by Scorsese. I fell in love immediately. I like how GA Cate Blanchett. Cate is truly modern, both fragile it changes from one block to the next. Then there are the and strong, glacial and sensual. Hers is a unique elegance, people, an electrifying mix of humanity that you can’t because it is genuine.  fnd anywhere else.  The thing I admire most about you is that you have Are you an uptown or downtown person?  reached that stage in your career when you don’t GA My style is perhaps uptown, but the New York that I have to humor fools or do anything you don’t want like is downtown: chaotic but alive and in ferment. I’ve to. You are the king. To me, being in charge is the always found the concepts underlying the American ultimate luxury. Dream fascinating: tenacity, a sense of responsibility GA I haven’t really thought about it. I think that it’s a and liberty, full belief in what one does. These are values stage that you arrive at unknowingly and you act accordand thoughts that I too have always been inspired by in ingly. Like when you move from adolescence to maturity, pursuing my own dream. So it’s no coincidence that in one day you are no longer a boy but a man. That’s all there America my dream instantly garnered support.  is to it. I have always been a man of action. 

We’re communicating through a translator. Do you think you ever will learn English? GA Never say never. But at the moment I grant myself this little luxury of not learning English. Not speaking it grants me the electrifying feeling of being a foreigner in transit. I like this.   Any American phrases you particularly like? GA I like “hands-on.” It sums up my sense of pragmatism. You have to be hands-on to have success. How do you stay so physically ft?  GA I believe in the motto, “A healthy mind is a healthy body.” I exercise consistently. For me this is essential. A balanced diet is undoubtedly another secret to keeping ft. And then there’s work, which keeps not only the body but also the mind ft. Retrospectives tend to make the public feel nostalgic. Do you feel that? GA Nostalgic celebrations create melancholy, and melancholy is not part of my makeup. My exhibition is not designed to be a commemoration but a gift to the people of the Big Apple who have always followed and supported my style. For this reason I didn’t just want to ofer them a great parade, but also show the eccentric side of my fashion. I always look to the future and the new challenges that are waiting for me. The past is made up of lessons already learned and errors that won’t happen again. Nothing more.  Looking back, is there any particular Armani design that you’re most proud of ? GA It’s difcult to choose. I’m linked to certain things I did at the beginning, like the soft and completely embroidered male suit. It encapsulates my concept of the eccentric, only slightly theatrical and infnitely exquisite.  Speaking of suits and the American Dream, what do you think of Hillary Clinton?  GA I like her decisive and feisty manner. I like her selfassured and determined way. She’s a self-described pantsuit afcionado. If Hillary were president, what do you think she should wear to the inauguration?  GA I love a strong woman in a suit, although a powerful woman today doesn’t need to wear trousers to succeed. An authoritative appearance helps though, and let’s just say Mrs. Clinton looks good in pants. So, yeah, she’d look great in a soft and sophisticated Armani pantsuit for that inauguration ceremony.

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