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clicking our heels with clara bow, the original it girl

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CONTRIBUTORS V80

Jean-Paul Goude Nick Knight Sebastian Faena Karim Sadli Alex Aikiu Sharif Hamza Carlos Serrao Jason Schmidt Simon Foxton Daniel Lindh Robin Broadbent Simon Robins Amy Troost Jodie Barnes Bjarne Jonasson Zara Zachrisson Schohaja Spencer Higgins Simon Procter Eva Chow Philippe Vogelenzang Delphine Danhier Metz + Racine Sonny Vandevelde Jason Kim Pamela Littky Mathu Andersen Melvin Sokolsky Elizabeth McMullen Kirsten Chilstrom Alexandra Marshall Joanna Rodger Mark Jacobs

Special thankS

Virginie Laguens Charlotte Knight SHOWstudio Art + Commerce Jimmy Moffat Phillipe Brutus Lindsay Thompson Amanda Fiala Tahra Collins Ian Bauman Dyonne Venable Cristian Mendez Kilato Art Partner Giovanni Testino Amber Olsen Candice Marks Lindsey Steinberg Allison Hunter Bryan Bantry Palma Driscoll Helena Martel Michael Lacomblez Shannon Pincham Cadence NY Neil Cooper Ashley Herson Management + Artists Valerie De Muzio Pia Byron Francesco Savi Daniel Weiner CLM Nick Bryning Cale Harrison Suzan Schuitemaker Jed Root Inc. Rachel King Kelly Penford Julian Watson Caitlin Thomas Malena Holcomb Tim Howard Vanessa Setton Michelle Service-Fraccari Janette Berredo Elizabeth Hess Artlist Audrey Petit Grard Jonathan Ferrari Laura Hinds Brian Phillips The Magnet Agency Johanna Adanova Rep Ltd. George Miscamble Brent Smith Richard Avedon Foundation M.A.P. Ltd. Pippa Mockridge Lucie Newbegin Brydges Mackinney Kate Olma Shawn Brydges Leigh Sikorski Louis Riquelme Diann Henry Todd Ifft Stephen Amiaga Shannon Pincham Matthew Evans Matt Holloway Tracey Mattingly Jonathan Black The Standard, High Line Daniela Maerky Ford NY Paul Rowland Sam Doerfler Valerie Tullio Amber Williams Rick Callahan Spring Studios Verien Wiltshire Bar Bar Sandbox Studio NY Phil Caraway Root [EQ + Capture + Studios] Kip McQueen Aldana Oppizzi Lydia Andersen-Tarnell Fast Ashleys Brooklyn Michael Masse Smashbox Studios Rebecca Cabage Dee deLara BOXeight Studios Azzurro Mallin Splashlight SOHO Shell Royster MILK Studios Diane Suarez Danielle Rafanan Mikkel Fischer

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Photo assistant Duncan Johnson Production Ruby (M.A.P Ltd) Retouching Paul Norman (The Post Room London)

hello


audrey hepburn’s holly golightly was an early proponent of cat power clockwise from top: sunglasses OLIVER PEOPLES shoe GIORGIO ARMANI bag EMPORIO ARMANI necklace MIkIMOTO

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in this issue

24 PARTY ON

New York fêtes the launch of CR Fashion Book; Valentino joins the ballet; the Gagosian hosts a Cindy Sherman soiree; the Serpentine toasts its new contemporaries; and Calvin Klein reopens Beatrice with a bang

26 IT GIRLS

From Clara Bow to Lana Del Rey, the It Girl has worn many faces

42 POWERHOUSE

When it comes to making conversation, nobody can chat it up like RuPaul, Ricki Lake, and Wendy Williams

46 V NEWS

Fill your holiday docket with exhibitions, fashion books, cinema’s strongest offerings, and Yoko Ono–designed Swarovski jewelry to wear along the way. Then celebrate with Piaget for the anniversary of its Rose collection

28 HEROES

52 BLACk MAGIC

32 WORk IN PROGRESS

53 POWER STRIPE

36 IN FOCUS

54 BITE SIZE

Whether real or works of fantasy, these three icons have paved the way for generations of women to come Slavs and Tatars get metaphysical at MoMA; Huma Bhaba erects her own brand of mutants LACMA trustee Eva Chow pays a studio visit to Ed Ruscha to discuss cinema, his Southern California canvas, and how Stanley Kubrick fits into the picture

38 SOUL SURVIVOR

Known for as much her family as for her cool-girl style, Lou Doillon steps into the spotlight with her first collection of songs

40 GOING DUTCH

Diversely funereal, fairylike, and full of aggression, the legendary Tori Amos has amassed a huge fan base. Now she celebrates by rerecording her hits

41 HAT TRICk

One of the year’s biggest singles heralds the arrival of a bold new voice. Give a warm welcome to Ellie Goulding

16

Get ready for the darkest winter in years with olfactory offerings that are taking it back to black The king of sporty elegance, Yohji Yamamoto celebrates his tenth anniversary at Y-3 It may be the year the Mayan calendar ends, but if 2012 will be remembered for anything else, it’s the birth of the ubiquitous minibag

55 WORLD BEAT

Gallivant through the global village in our favorite gypsyinspired looks

56 CRUISE LINES

Karl Lagerfeld, Alber Elbaz, and Massimiliano Giornetti raise the curtain behind the catwalk to reveal their inspirations for Resort

62 ’TIS THE SEASON

Brace yourself for Black Friday and beyond with our handy gift guide for both the downtown diva and the uptown girl in your world

66 HITCHCOCk HEROINE BY JEAN-PAUL GOUDE

Star of the silver screen Scarlett Johansson talks to the image maker extraordinaire about embodying Hollywood royalty while creating a legacy that’s all her own

70 STUDS BY NICk kNIGHT

Embrace your inner masculinity. This is Spring’s sporty menswear moment

80 LIVING DOLL BY SEBASTIAN FAENA

Valeria Lukyanova has made herself infamous with the Barbie-like avatar she projects into the world. But what lies beneath her strange beauty?

90 PARADIS FOUND BY CARLOS SERRAO

Following a year of personal upheaval, musician, model, and muse Vanessa Paradis embraces new beginnings with a welcome return to the big screen

94 ALL HAIL COUTURE BY kARIM SADLI

Fall/Winter Couture emanates a new energy, welcoming new artisans and pioneering bold new forms

102 GIRLS OF NOW BY SHARIF HAMZA

Ring in the New Year by celebrating the icons that 2012 made: Azealia Banks, Grimes, Sky Ferreira, Cassie, Liza Thorn, Charli XCX, Porcelain Black, Venus X, and Trixie Whitley

112 BEST OF 2012

For a look back at the best that this year had to offer, who better to turn to than our most fashionable friends?

Photography Metz + Racine Set Design Robert Storey (CLM)

contents


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Stephen Amiaga Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park (www.fdrfourfreedomspark.org)

foreword

An aerial view of the new V-shaped Four Freedoms Park on Roosevelt Island, NYC

v wish you a happy new year!

Is it us or was 2012 quite formidable? With its bailouts, elections, upturns and downturns, fallen superstars and financial strain, the past year was one for the books—though we know that all

this change and revolution, as the saying goes, can sometimes be a good thing. Standing their ground at the center of it all were some seriously strong-willed women deserving commemoration in this modest space. They are among the truly brave, challenging suppressive governments at the risk of their own lives: we’re looking at you, Aung San Suu Kyi, Pussy Riot, and Malala Yousufzai. These peaceful warriors are an inspiration for this issue of V, dedicated to Girl Power. How better to bolster the good in the world than to invest in the female forces that make it go round? In the realm of pop culture, there is no greater champion than Scarlett Johansson. Aside from being an actress with range, she is also an activist, often using her celebrity to affect positive change (which is more than we can say for most). This month she embodies Janet Leigh in Hitchcock, based on the making of the Psycho (with Anthony Hopkins playing the eccentric auteur). Upon hearing this news, the legendary Jean-Paul Goude excitedly conceptualized and photographed our thrilling cover—recreating the film’s infamous shower scene—with his unique blend of glamour and humor. Johansson, a risk-tasker who has long grabbed Hollywood by the horns and wrestled it right to the ground, was happily up to task. This November the Tony Award-winning actress will prove her mettle once again— returning to Broadway to star as Maggie in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. 22

Our less fluff and more fodder approach to this issue continues with a bevy of interviews featuring women who have excelled in charting their own course. From new talents (Lou Doillon, Ellie Goulding) to vixen vets (Twiggy, Penelope Tree, Tori Amos), they candidly reveal the trials and tribulations of getting to where they are today. The gorgeous subjects of Nick Knight’s portfolio have strength in spades. Finding the binary view of sexuality as inaccurate as it is banal, the progressive photographer was excited to capture this group of U.K.-based beauties pushing gender boundaries in the season’s newest menswear offerings. The Ukrainian Internet sensation Valeria Lukyanova—dripping in fine jewelry in a shoot by photographer Sebastian Faena with styling by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele—projects her sexuality with bikini tops and doll-like expressions, but really just wants to promote her music and astral planning. (Hey, why not?) Meanwhile, the French chanteuse Vanessa Paradis, star of this month’s Café de Flore, is boldly stepping into a spate of new projects in the wake of announcing her split from actor Johnny Depp. And of course, this being a fashion mag and all, we would be remiss if we failed to include the exquisite haute couture collections of the Fall-Winter season. We close out the issue, and the year, with promising acts of tomorrow in the newest Resort collections. You’ll recognize the young faces of this talented crew of musicians—Azealia Banks, Grimes, Sky Ferreira, Liza Thorn, and Trixie Whitley among them—from our very own pages and if don’t you’ll wish you had. These are the women who will rock you to your core in 2013. Ms. V


M·A·C P AY S T R I B U T E T O H E R B R E A T H T A K I N G H O L LY W O O D G L A M O U R W ITH A CO LO U R CO LLE C TI O N TH AT C H A N N E L S TH E LE G E N D ’ S L U S T R E A N D S E X A P P E A L . T H E W O R L D C A N N E V E R G E T E N O U G H M A R I LY N . DEBUTS OCTOBER 4. M A C C O S M E T I C S . C O M / M A R I LY N


JT Besins

Tom Sachs

Bar Refaeli

Andre Balazs

Robin Standefer

Sarah Hoover

Constance Jablonski

Shala Monroque

Stephen Alesch

Bill Cunningham

Mario Sorrenti

Jenke

Sebastian Cecilia Faena Anastasiya Dean Siro

Mary Frey

Kate Mulleavy

Saskia de Brauw

Waris Ahluwalia

Doutzen Kroes

Demet Muftuoglu Eseli

Stef Van Der Laan

Marte van Haaster

Joan Smalls

Andre J

Catherine McNeil

Martin Solomon

Izabel Goulart

Harry Brant

Lauren Remington Platt

Daphne Guinness

Stephen Gan

Carine Roitfeld

Bruce Weber

Laure Heriard Dubreuil

Kate Upton

A FRICKIN’ GOOD TIME

Aaron Young

Angela Lindvall

Carine roitfeld hosts a blaCk-tie ball at the friCk ColleCtion on new York’s Upper east side to fÊte the debUt of her new biannUal pUbliCation, Cr fashion book

Lindsey Wixson

Ryuichi Sakamoto

Riccardo Tisci

James Kaliardos

Peter Brant Jr.

Sarah Jessica Parker

Diane von Furstenberg

Olympia Scarry

Eugenie Giancarlo Niarchos Giammetti

Valentino

Karolina Kurkova

Anne Hathaway

Jessica Hart

ThE EMPEROR’S BALLET

Paris Hilton

Stavros Niarchos

Alexia Niedzielski

Diana Widmaier-Picasso

Gaia Repossi

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis

Anja Rubik

Glenda Bailey

Marie AngeCasta

Farida Khelfa

Nicky Hilton

Jeremy Scott

Terence Koh

Benjamin Cho

Humberto Leon

Paul Sevigny

Carol Han

Spike Jonze

Chloë Sevigny

Monet Mazur

Lil’ Kim

Alexander Wang

hANG TEN

the new York CitY ballet debUts bal de CoUtUre, the latest work bY ballet master in Chief peter martins, with CostUmes desiGned bY valentino Garavani

Erin Wasson

Rick Genest

MIA

Iman

Sean Augustine March

Ladyfag

openinG CeremonY Celebrates its 10th anniversarY with a niGht of performanCes at new York’s webster hall

Arizona Muse

Cindy Sherman

Mario Testino

Coco Brandolini

Dasha Zhukova

Franca Sozzani

Betty Catroux

Ellen von Unwerth

Bruno Frisoni

Lee Radziwill

Giovanna Battaglia

Catherine Baba

Betony Vernon

Dree Hemingway

Rachael Taylor

Italo Zucchelli

Karlie Kloss

Emma Stone

Derek Blasberg

Erin Heatherton

Diane Kruger

Conor Dwyer

Francisco Costa

BACK AT ThE BEATRICE

Amar’e Stoudemire

Hanneli Mustaparta

Henrik Lundqvist

Nora Zehetner

Calvin klein Celebrates its sprinG 2013 ColleCtion with a dinner at the newlY reopened beatriCe inn 24

Jefferson Hack Dinos Chapman

Tiphaine de Lussy

Kelly Osbourne

Tali Lennox

Kate Moss

LONDON’S SNAKE PIT

Amber Le Bon

Harry Styles

the kills perform at the serpentine GallerY’s fUtUre Contemporaries partY

Clara Paget

Photos Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com courtesy Gagosian Gallery courtesy Serpentine Gallery

PORTRAITS OF A LADY

the GaGosian GallerY opens an exhibition of CindY sherman’s self portraits at its paris loCation with an after-partY at de roYelle


© 2012

HOLIDAY 2012 COLLECTION


IT GIRLS

Forever drawn to their magnetic qualities, we highlight some oF the most Fascinating women oF our time

Clara Bow

Josephine Baker

1920s Clara Bow, the original It Girl, lit up the screen in the box-office hit It. The “Brooklyn Bonfire” burns down Sunset Boulevard in her Kissel convertible, toting seven Chow dogs and a monkey—all dyed to match her flaming-red bob.

text elizaBeth McMullen

Josephine Baker jiggles her

bananas at the Folies Bergère, dizzying audiences with her sexy shimmy. Legions copy her sleek Eton crop and vampy lipstick; Picasso declares her “The Nefertiti of Now.”

Audrey Hepburn Daisy Fellowes Marlene Dietrich

Mae West Betty Grable

1950s audrey hepBurn dazzles with her megawatt grin and chic Givenchy wardrobe in Sabrina. A new neckline and heel are born. Marilyn Monroe shows more than

a little leg upon stepping onto a subway grating in her Ferragamo slingbacks. When her skirt flies up, the crowd goes wild.

1930s

1940s Pinup of the century Betty graBle makes the boys cry—we’re talkin’ five million GIs, here—for the girls back home. “Brazilian Bombshell” CarMen Miranda shows America how to do the Copa, Copa-ca-ba-na, in stacked platforms…towering tutti-frutti optional.

Singer sewing-machine heiress daisy Fellowes turns le tout Paris on its head, boldly sporting Schiaparelli’s high-heel hat and lobster-print dress about town. Morocco star Marlene dietriCh makes her Hollywood debut in top hat and tails, setting the bar for borrowed-from-theboys glamour.

Mae west’s curvy form inspires the shape of Schiaparelli’s Shocking perfume bottle; Dalí models a sofa after her full lips and smart attitude. “It is better to be looked over than overlooked,” West quips. Spoken like a true It Girl.

Left: Mick and Bianca Jagger Below: Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent, Loulou De La Falaise

Grace Jones by Jean-Paul Goude

Edie Sedgwick

1960s Cleopatra eyes and dangly earrings, big fur coats and black tights—silver-haired heiress edie sedgwiCk is the belle of Warhol’s Factory. Vogue’s Diana Vreeland declares her one of the generation’s “Youthquakers.”

Jane Birkin

1970s

1980s

For her marriage to Mick Jagger, model BianCa pérez-Mora MaCias goes bare-chested under a cream Saint Laurent blazer; it becomes her signature look.

In pleated Fortuny or baggy tee and jodhpurs, sleek-haired model-turned-artist tina Chow was one of the original minimalists.

Beturbaned bohemian loulou de la Falaise and lanky tomboy Betty Catroux are the yin-and-yang muses to designer Yves Saint Laurent.

When Jane Birkin meets Serge Gainsbourg, she pants, “Je t’aime moi non plus.” Paris says yé-yé-yé to the Londoner’s breezy bangs and layered gold chains, see-through microminis, and knee-high boots.

Chloë Sevigny

2000s

1990s

A punk Goldilocks in tattoos and leather, London-based Brazilian model-rocker aliCe dellal has it all, including the current Chanel Boy handbag campaign.

Brit waif kate Moss rockets to fame on bare-naked magnetism. After this, it’s total Obsession.

Internet sensation lana del ray bursts onto the scene with her bad girl pinup style, singing her way to a lucrative H&M campaign.

26

Above: Lana Del Rey by Karim Sadli Left: Alice Dellal by Karl Lagerfeld

“graCe Jones is a question mark followed by an exclamation point,” says Ebony of the outrageous androgyne in 1979. With her fierce flattop and luscious lips, Jones is both Mars and Venus—after the big bang.

Crowned “the coolest girl in the world” by Jay McInerney in 1994, Chloë sevigny, princess of downlow, is the one to watch.

Kate Moss

Photofest (Bow, Baker, Grable, Jagger) All others, in order of timeline: Paramount Pictures/Photofest; courtesy of the Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s; Paramount Pictures/Photofest; mptvimages.com; Jerry Schatzberg/Trunkarchive.com; © Odile Montserrat/Sygma/Corbis; John Minihan/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; courtesy Jean-Paul Goude; Columbia/Photofest; courtesy Calvin Klein; courtesy Karim Sadli; courtesy Chanel

timeline


THE FIRST EVER BLACK EAU DE PARFUM

H A U S L A B O R AT O R I E S . C O M FA C E B O O K . C O M / H A U S L A B O R AT O R I E S


A divA who distrActed from the GreAt depression, Betty Boop is BAttinG her fAmed lAshes once AGAin As A spokesperson for lAncÔme it Girl speciAl 28

When the stock market crashed in 1929, there was no such thing

as a golden parachute; the economy was all but dead, the housing market had collapsed, and the spirits of the people were

Betty Boop © 2012 King Features Syndicate Inc./Fleischer Studios Inc. TM Hearst Holdings Inc./Fleischer Studios Inc.

betty boop

desperately low. The Great Depression had settled upon America. Eagerly seeking out a distraction from the harsh realities of the real world, audiences clamored for animator Max Fleischer’s carefree, alluring new cartoon character—Betty Boop. For her first on-air appearance, she was not the star of the show, but merely an extra. In Dizzy Dishes, a cartoon chef busily prepares meals in the kitchen of a cabaret club. He rushes out to deliver a plate to one particularly hungry patron, only to be stopped dead in his tracks by the sight of the scantily clad stunner crooning from the stage. “Boop-oop-a-doop,” squeaks the singer, wearing thigh highs and a little black dress. That was the moment the world was introduced to the one and only Boop. Grim Natwick, an illustrator at Fleischer Studios, introduced the sizzling cartoon character in a six-minute short in the fall of 1930. The production company, whose only real competition was Walt Disney Studios, had wide appeal in the 1920s. At the time, Betty was an anthropomorphic dog with an eye-popping figure


Betty Boop perfects her pose through the years. The newest incarnation as the face of Lancôme’s Hypnôse Star mascara

in the Fleischer’s Talkartoon series. Her emergence as a sexy,

doppelgänger steal her spotlight, would later file a $250,000 law-

animation history. Bumper stickers, magnets, dolls, and figurines

curvaceous flapper in a cabaret club was fresh and exhilarating for the screen, which previously had been populated mostly by androgynous female characters with the sex appeal of a wet mop. Whether traveling the world, running away from home, or simply teasing her male admirers, Betty Boop never failed to entertain in her less-than-10-minute features. In 1932, Fleischer began incorporating famous musicians into the films, to increase the magnetism already drawing audiences to the theater in droves. Jazz orchestras, led by Louis Armstrong and Cab Calloway, gave added value to the deceptively simple black-and-white cartoons. As Boop gained popularity among moviegoers, her physical appearance was progressively transformed: first her puppy ears were replaced by gold hoops, which fully humanized the character. Her new appearance—short, dark, tightly curled hair, wide eyes, and a voluptuous figure—resembled a popular star of the time, Helen Kane. The singer, disgruntled at having an animated

suit against Fleischer Studios. Boop’s second transformation came in 1935 with the enactment of the Hays Code, which established strict censorship rules for film and television. Her hemline extended and ample bosom covered up, Boop took on a more innocent persona. This new incarnation eventually led to her downfall, as her popularity had been deeply rooted in her role as a sexualized, liberated character, titillating for men and inspiring to women. Throughout all of Boop’s reinventions, one quality remained the same—her voice. Actress Mae Questel, who played the role from 1931 until her death in 1998, was the talent behind the coquettish squeak that was synonymous with Boop’s character. The vocal artist, who in reality looked similar to Boop, famously lent her voice to another Fleischer production, Popeye the Sailor, in which she played Olive Oyl. Today Betty Boop is still looked upon as a hero and legend of

serve as testaments to her revolutionary influence. Whether she is

looked at as a sex symbol or simply an exemplar of twenties-style drawing, Boop claims a fan base that transcends time and place.

Bringing her back to the masses this fall is luxury beauty brand Lancôme, who has tapped Boop for an advertising cam-

paign for its new Hypnôse Star mascara. In a commercial for

the product, Boop is shown in her classic LBD and garter, prepping übermodel Daria Werbowy for a stage debut. In the words of Lancôme’s worldwide president, Youcef Nabi, “Betty Boop is clearly the greatest feminine cartoon star of all time. Sensual, sexy, and charming, Betty Boop is the incarnation of a certain feminine ideal. She knows how to put on a show, thanks to her mischievous character full of whimsical charm, her playful spirit, and her timeless youth.” We can all learn a thing or two from the character who so famously stole the spotlight and the hearts of the American people, over eighty years ago. Kirsten Chilstrom


twiggy

A simple hAircut lAunched her cAreer, And her minute frAme lit the fAshion world on fire. but there is nothing frAil About twiggy, who After conquering the modeling industry went on to rule hollywood, broAdwAy, And eventuAlly the home shopping network

Everyone knows Twiggy (née Lesley Lawson), the slight 16-year-old

schoolgirl who set the fashion world ablaze with her avant-garde

haircut, slender frame, and exaggerated eye makeup. Her four-year modeling stint during the swinging sixties paved the way for a career in which she netted two Golden Globes for her performance in The Boy Friend (1971); Broadway and West End theater roles; and a turn as a judge on America’s Next Top Model. Eponymous collections for Marks & Spencer and HSN are her latest triumph. Calling from her home in London, the hardworking icon with a blue-collar background dishes on the keys to her success. Sarah criStobal How did you get started? You were so young! TWIGGY On paper it shouldn’t have happened. It was one person, Leonard, who saw something and cut my hair. He hung my picture in his salon in Mayfair. I went back to school and a fashion journalist from a daily newspaper came in, saw the photograph, and said, “Who’s the girl? I want to meet her.” So they took some more photos of me and wrote a piece. My dear dad, bless him, used to go out every day to get the papers, but nothing appeared. Then, about three weeks later, it was a whole double-page spread! The headline was “Twiggy: The Face of ’66,” and that’s the day my life changed forever.

And your phone did not stop ringing. T No, but I was a schoolgirl, so they were ringing my mum [laughs]. Mad! The next major part of the story is Diana Vreeland and her bringing me to America. That’s when it all just went global. I have a lot to thank Ms Vreeland for. She was an extraordinary woman. What was her reaction when she saw you? T I mean, she was quite scary! I arrived in their office and this woman walked in, completely dressed in black with just the bright red lips and that mad hair. We got on like a house on fire and I loved her. She changed my career, because when Diana Vreeland said, “This is it,” you know the whole fashion industry listened. She was influential in introducing you to new photographers… T She immediately put me together with Richard Avedon, who in my eyes is the greatest fashion photographer of our century. He was also a really lovely guy. I was very young and shy and he looked after me. He would get me dancing on the set. He had quite a small build, a bit like Fred Astaire. One of my favorite pictures was taken by his assistant. It’s Richard and me on set, and we’re leaping in the air. It’s just such a joyous photograph, and it says so much about Richard. Were you shooting every day? T During the week, yes. In those days if you were a photographic model you didn’t do the catwalk shows. That didn’t start until the ’80s, really. It was hard work, we were traveling all the time. I think lots of people think the ’60s were all drugs and rock and roll, which it probably was for some. I didn’t drink then, I was so square. I didn’t get into drugs and…well, that’s probably why I’m still here! Well you had a good head on your shoulders, obviously. T I think so. Then I met this extraordinary man called Ken Russell who changed my life yet again. He cast me in The Boy Friend. I was world-famous as a model, but I’d never acted or danced. It was like entering a whole new world: it was magical. And of course when the film came out, I won two Golden Globe awards. It’s rare to have that your first time out of the gate. T It was bonkers. Suddenly I’m getting off with a record deal, I’m getting off with a TV series, I’m getting off with another film. So I made the decision at the ripe old age of 20–21, that that’s the path I wanted to follow. I didn’t kind of wake up and think, Oh, I’m never going to model again. And then you transitioned onto Broadway, right? T Yes. Tommy Tune, who I became great friends with while we were doing The Boy Friend, became a huge director on Broadway in the late ’70s, and he rang me one day. We had been trying to do a film project together, and he said, “I want to do it on Broadway.” And I said, “You must be mad!” And he said to me, “There’s no such word as ‘can’t.’ Pack your bags and get up to New York.” It was called My One and Only and it ran for 18 months. And of course you had an album come out last year. T I didn’t do it because I wanted a hit or to top the charts. It’s called Romantically Yours, so they’re all old, romantic songs. I feel very blessed that I’ve had a career that I’ve done lots of different things, because I never get bored. The best models seem to go on to create empires for themselves. T Most models do start at a very young age—and obviously your life changes, because you can’t be a young model forever. People are realizing you don’t only have to always use teenage girls. Sometimes it’s better, especially if you’re selling an antique wrinkle cream, you’re going to believe it more if you use an older woman. I just launched my range online for M&S. And I also go to Florida because I do a big clothing line for the Home Shopping Network. Are you very instrumental with designing the line? T Oh, totally! I’m a bit of a control freak. It’s my passion. I learned to sew as a kid. I’ve got sewing and knitting machines. I’ve made most of the curtains and bedspreads in our houses. It’s therapeutic. Fashion is in your blood. T I only get involved with things I feel passionate about. I launched my first perfume on HSN in July, which was really exciting. The packaging is a shocking pink Union Jack, and it’s called Twiggy! Do you have a great archive from back in the day? T Probably not as much as I should. My daughter tells me off all the time, but when you’re 16 you’re not thinking like that. Bill Gibb made me some performing outfits, so I kept those and a couple of coats. Stella McCartney is a dear friend, since Paul is one of my best friends and Linda was one of my best friends. I’ve known her since she was born. My daughter is actually her print designer. Keeping it all in the family! T Yeah, Carly works at Stella. And Matthew Williamson is a great mate. I’m a very lucky girl! Chris Bailey [from Burberry] occasionally sends me a gorgeous new trench coat. So I’ve got things like that. From the ’60s it’s mainly the special things, since my dayto-day clothes are long gone. You can’t live in the past. I did it, I’ve been there, I’ve got the T-shirt.

Twiggy in new york CiTy, 1967

PhotograPhy melvin SokolSky

© Melvin Sokolsky, courtesy Fahey/Klein Gallery

heroes


penelope tree

A fAce thAt ignited A generAtion, mod squAd muse PeneloPe tree tAlks cAPote’s BlAck And White BAll, the thrill of dAting dAvid BAiley, And Why she doesn’t miss the sPotlight Seen from behind, she could have been any ole shopper, perusing the racks at Liberty London. But after a tap on the shoulder the woman turns, and the big, brown, wide-set eyes gazing out from under her trademark fringe are instantly recognizable. It’s

Penelope Tree, whose face remains a hallmark of the 1960s.

When John Lennon was asked to describe her in three words, he replied: “Hot, hot, hot, smart, smart, smart!” When she came to Richard Avedon’s studio for the first time, he sighed: “She’s perfect. Don’t touch her.” We head to the Liberty Café, a nondescript eatery which happens to overlook the site and scene with which she will always be synonymous: Carnaby Street. She’s happy to take a trip down memory lane. Like many stories of that era, this one begins with Diana Vreeland. Derek BlasBerg When did you first meet Vreeland? PENELOPE TREE When I was 13. I was peering at her through the balustrades of the staircase at my parents’ house. They had given a big party and I could hear her in the hallway making all these pronouncements. I was a very rebellious teenager at the time, and I thought, Who is that woman? She’s so affected! A few years later you were in her office at Vogue. PT We met again at Capote’s Black and White Ball, and afterward she invited me up to that famous red office. The peanut butter sandwich and glass of scotch that she had every day for lunch were on her desk. Within three minutes I was having the best time you could imagine. We became great friends. Did you have fun at the Black and White Ball? PT No, not really. It wasn’t fun. It was a spectacle. Everyone was blowing kisses and telling each other they looked wonderful, but it was more people looking at each other. The picture of you coming down the stairs has become an iconic image. PT I don’t really remember it being taken. The only thing I remember is that I had never seen paparazzi before. It was very scary. But it was also very exciting. From that moment, your whole world changed. PT Vreeland sent me to see Dick Avedon a few days later, he did some test shots and we hit it off. The concept of fame in those days was different than now. Back then someone could be famous without being such a towering figure of adoration, whereas now someone can be famous for nothing. Dick was very alive, very in the present, incredibly good company. What got you to London? PT Unfortunately I fell in love. I fell in love with someone highly inappropriate: David Bailey. He’s still inappropriate. PT He would love that. “Fuck all that political correctness,” I can hear him saying. He was my first boyfriend. We had met when I was 16 and an intern at a publishing house in London. I met him at a party and it was like, Wow. He was just electrifying. It was exactly what I was looking for at the time, because I was a rebel. What were you rebelling against? Your family? PT It was a very complicated family. They weren’t exactly stiff, but they were smart. My father had been an MP during the war and my mother was an ambassador to the UN and a city planner. They had great taste, style, everything that a person could possibly want. But my mother was very different at home. She wasn’t really a mother at all. She had no maternal instinct. In England I went to do a photo shoot with Bailey and there was a lot of chemistry, but I refused to go near him because he was married to Catherine Deneuve. A year later, though, he was unmarried to her, and he came to New York to collect me. Just like that? PT Yep. When he showed up, my mother opened the door and tried to close it on him. He stuck his pointy-toed Cuban boot inside and said, “Don’t worry. It could have been much worse. It could have been a Rolling Stone.” Such a great line. So Bailey.

What did you wear at this time? PT Miniskirts. I can remember my favorite piece of clothing was this belt with foxtails hanging from it. I find it kind of revolting now, but it was just 10 foxtails dangling from my waist. I wore it with everything. I never went out of the house without drawing those black eyelashes on, which took about three minutes. Had you thought about being a model? PT It was nothing I considered before I turned 15. But I remember being in the library in my boring boarding school and staring at that famous Time magazine article “Swinging London.” I looked at it and thought, I’m going to have another life, I’m going to be there. And I was right. My generation glamorizes that era, but I have to ask, were you aware it was such a fantastical moment while you were living in it? PT There was something in the air. It felt like something was happening that hadn’t happened before. It started with the music, and it was something that adults didn’t understand and all the young people did. Suddenly it turned into a culture. How did that era draw to a close? PT Bailey and I split up, then I stayed in England until 1978. London went from being the happiest, most exciting place to miners’ strikes and grim conditions. I moved to L.A. for a few years, and then to Australia for 17 years, in 1981. When did you stop modeling? PT I developed this skin ailment. It left scars, ended my career as a model, and no one wanted to talk to me. It forced me to look into myself and figure out what the hell was going on and why I had reacted to life in that extreme way. That must have been frustrating. PT More than that I was ashamed. It was painful, especially when I would see Bailey’s new girlfriends on the cover of Vogue and I

knew that I had lost my outward glow. It had been generated by my own body too, which was very strange. It wasn’t like it was a car crash. So I went into analysis, which started to help. I started dancing. I wasn’t very good. But I had been very clumsy and dyspraxic, and somehow dancing got me in a different headspace and centered me. I started studying anthropology of religion and I got my head back together again. After spending so much time focusing on the outside, you started to look within. PT I needed to do that. My whole life was lived through another person. Bailey is a very powerful, magnetic person, and he took all his energy from those around him. He just demands it and you can’t do anything about it. As much as I still love the old geezer, it wasn’t very healthy. So, it was a difficult time, but who doesn’t go through difficult times in their lives? It’s hard to grow from getting everything. I had to learn some humility over the years, and so did that entire generation. Are you flattered when you hear that your face ignited a generation? PT I don’t identify with it much anymore. It feels like a different person, even though I’m glad that those images exist and that girl lived. Honestly and truly, even though it doesn’t appear to be exciting to be 62 years old, I would rather be my age now than that girl then. I wouldn’t be 18 again for anything. I have more awareness. I know what I’m interested in and I know exactly what I don’t want. Life is clear now, and it wasn’t then. So you are happy that you were an It Girl? PT But I’m much more fulfilled as a woman.

PhotograPh By richarD aveDon

PeneloPe Tree, dress by cardin, Paris sTudio, January 1968 © The richard avedon FoundaTion


WORK IN PRO GRESS PhotograPhy Jason schmidt

SENSORY SPECTRUM

at MoMa, MaxiMalist collective slavs and tatars shows hyperawareness by coMbining soMething borrowed with soMething out of the blue Beyonsense acts as a psychedelic reading room, a sanctuary, a calm, black-lit space amid the otherwise white-washed rough-andtumble of the museum crowds, in which to consider the antimodern, the traditional, and the contemplative. Visitors can read our various publications, including our most recent, called Khhhhhhh, on the pesky-to-pronounce phoneme “kh,” or they can just take a nap or relax. Beyonsense, a brilliant English translation of the Russian zaum, literally means “beyond or across reason,” a set of futurist linguistic experiments to unlock the sacred role of language versus its everyday, profane use. The centerpiece is a little known Dan Flavin installation for a Sufi mosque in SoHo, on Mercer Street, commissioned by Dia in the early 1980s, that we’ve re-created for the occasion, as well as our Reverse Joy, a fountain of red water whose trickling sound soothes while the sight of it unsettles. Reverse Joy is a perfect example of what we call amphiboly: metaphysical splits of the mind, not the legs. Bringing things together that don’t seem at first glance to fit has become somewhat of our MO. In this case, we combine the festive, naïve vibrancy of a colored fountain with its more cynical, violent connotations of blood. Whether in Jerusalem—where we presented it recently in a public park—or in the hallowed halls of MoMA, kids seem to love it, and true to our maximalist ethos, grandmas and grandpas do too. Children, however, are our preferred demographic. slavs and tatars 33


work in progress

standing tall

As she prepAres for one of these dAys to open At ps1 this november, humA bhAbhA tAkes A moment to pose Among her sAcred sculptures Normally when you have your photo taken for a magazine you

lose control of the image almost immediately. But in this case I’ve been given the chance to review it, in order to provide a voiceover, similar to when you watch a DVD with commentary from the director. What you see here is a posed freeze-frame of my process. The saw on the floor is one of the main tools I use to carve the figures, out of Styrofoam and cork. Like mutant Brancusi sculptures, they stand around waiting, listening, protecting‌are they time travelers from the past? The future? Both? Ultimately I see them as a family, or pack, enjoying some quiet time together before they leave the studio for the world of museums, galleries, and anonymous storage units. huma BhaBha 34


art

IN FOCUS

Vivid, arresting, and profound. The oeuvres of Stanley Kubrick and Ed Ruscha, two of the past century’s most prolific and revered

artists, are often described as such, but in many ways the similarity ends there. The legendary Kubrick, who passed away in 1999, is survived by his uncompromising arsenal of cinematic triumphs—Paths of Glory, A Clockwork Orange, The Shining, and 2001: A Space Odyssey among them—known for their exacting and visually dazzling depictions of themes common to the human experience, including violence, sexuality, war, the future, science, and revenge. Ruscha, continuing his practice of painting, drawing, printing, and photography to the present day, has achieved his own vibrant aesthetic through his reflections of Californian urbanity, which uniquely capture its saturated hues and sense of isolation with a canny humor suggestive of the Pop Art movement. In October, dedicated exhibits of each artist opened at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, as part of this year’s Art + Film Gala (presented by Gucci), the second such event since the museum began a new film initiative. LACMA trustee Eva Chow, alongside Leonardo DiCaprio, cochaired the evening, which featured a Kubrick tribute by Steven Spielberg and a performance by Florence and the Machine. Before the big night, Chow sat down with honoree Ruscha to talk about why it’s important to stay focused on film. Patrik Sandberg EVA CHOW You’ve been so busy with museums lately! ED RUSCHA Well, I’ve done this show in Austria and many works, 36

10 years ago, or even five years ago. People are actually coming here as a destination, as artists and filmmakers have for the last 100 years. It’s an ever-moving thing. EC Every artist influences the way we see things and the way we see life. That’s what great artists do, and great filmmakers do that as well. We are so happy you agreed to do this. I know I had to kind of… ER Coerce me. EC Yeah, coerce you a little bit. So we’ve got Ed Ruscha, Kubrick, Spielberg, and Florence is going to sing. I wanted a female because it’s all so male-dominated…except for me. How do you feel about being paired with Kubrick as honoree? ER It wasn’t a choice of mine, but I love his movies. Especially the older ones like Paths of Glory. He also did still photography that not many people know about. There are some beautiful still photographs that he took. He would pose people together, like frozen scenes from movies. Not many people have done that. EC Well, everybody knows you are one of the most amazing artists, and you’ve lived and worked in Los Angeles for so long, I think for Los Angeles to honor you is really great! But you’re so busy, you have so many show openings, you have to go travel the world. ER The trick is keeping your sanity. I take a philosophical approach to everything, I figure that everything is just a bump on the highway and we’re all just little bumps playing our role. It’s certainly an honor. EC It’s just fun having good, creative, talented people come together. I like to do this as if I’m entertaining at home. I like to pay attention to who’s going to sit next to whom, what the food will be, and if everybody is going to be happy. Good entertaining, in my book, is just making sure that you love the guests that are coming. ER Just remember you’ll never have perfection. [laughs] EC Right? I think those little imperfections that happen accidentally are what makes it all really fun, don’t you think? ER Well, Eva, you’re already having fun, and the party hasn’t even happened! EC I just love to produce things and see what happens. ER Now the real work begins.

Ed Ruscha and Eva chow at his studio in cEntuRy city, august 2012

PhotograPhy CarloS Serrao

Ed Ruscha: standaRd and stanlEy kubRick aRE now on display at lacMa

Makeup Ashleigh Louer for NARS (The Magnet L.A.) Hair Jarrett Iovinella for VoCé (The Magnet L.A.) Photo assistants Ron Loepp and Amy Mauth Digital technician Brittany Keene Equipment rental Smashbox Studios L.A. Special thanks Mary Dean and Black Frame

AS LACMA MOUNTS EXHIBITIONS Of STANLEY KUBRICK AND ED RUSCHA, TRUSTEE EVA CHOW—COCHAIR Of THE gUCCI-SpONSORED OpENINg gALA— DISCUSSES WITH THE ICONIC L.A. pAINTER WHY CINEMA IS ALWAYS IN STYLE

probably 250 works. So it’s coming along, I just got back from it. But I don’t mind being busy. What are you up to? EC I’m doing the Mr. Chow bakery next door to Mr. Chow. Or maybe it’s going to be Mrs. Chow’s bakery! That’ll be fun, no? ER Sure, a bakery, what’s wrong with that? EC I love that. Let’s talk about how your relationship with LACMA began, Ed. ER I did a painting called The Los Angeles County Museum on Fire in 1968 that was a protest against the authority figure in my life, as I felt like maybe museums were at that time. It’s become something much different today. I’ve watched that museum change physically, and also in its programming. I’ve had two, possibly three shows there, so I’ve always had a connection with LACMA. I was disappointed when they did certain things, like when they dropped their film program, but now they’re restoring it in a big way, which your gala is a part of, and that’s good to hear. Maybe it was a budgetary consideration at that time. You know, the world of film is more important than some people think. Art is not all just painting and sculpture. EC What’s happening is that the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences is going to be housed at the May Company building with LACMA. I think you put it right, that film is such an important art form. Artists, fashion designers, musicians, everybody—we are all influenced by film in one way or another. Being in Los Angeles, I think it is very, very important to preserve and honor that, and that’s what we’re doing. Do you agree? ER Oh yeah. I was probably attracted to this place when I was a kid in Oklahoma because I knew movies were made in Hollywood and that was almost enough for me. Add in the vegetation growing out here, palm trees and everything…When I first came out here it was heavenly because it was like a scratchy black-andwhite movie. I still look back on my early days here as being connected in some metaphoric way to old scratchy black-andwhite movies. EC That’s beautiful to visualize! You know, we have Elvis Mitchell, who’s an amazing film curator— ER Great guy. EC Amazing guy, and his knowledge of film is just incredible. We’re doing a lot with restoring old films and honoring great filmmakers, which is what this gala is. We’re honoring incredibly creative people. And I think there’s a real artistic community growing here that really wants to support film preservation. ER No doubt about that. There are more artists than there were


AVAILABLE AT NEIMAN MARCUS

BALENCIAGAFRAGRANCE.COM

THE NE W E AU DE PARFUM WORN BY K RISTEN STE WART


music

So I used to freak him out. I’m always laughing when I’m out of my house, but beware of giggly people, it’s almost always a sign of depression. Anyway, at a birthday party at my mother’s place I couldn’t hide it for the first time and I sat in a corner by myself. And because Étienne’s shy, he’s often in corners too. Also my mother had told him she was worried about me. She said, “I love her music because I’ve heard it, but I don’t know if it’s good because I’m her mum. Could you go check it out and tell me what you think?” Your songs are awfully melancholic. LD They are sad, bluntly honest little songs. But I do believe being an artist entails a responsibility to talk about what people don’t want to talk about. And the songs about what’s most painful in life are the best songs, like “Jolene,” by Dolly Parton. I mean, you’ve got to be really fucking honest to write a song for a girl who’s going to nick your man. Or Billie Holiday’s “Don’t Explain.” I think, Shit, I’ve lived that, where you’d rather be with a man who’s cheating on you than be without him. In the modern woman’s world, you’re not allowed to say that stuff, but I think the majority of women have felt absolutely the same. Have you had that great, satisfying love too? LD It’s kind of happened to me in the last ten days! So for the moment I’m being very cautious about it, but for the first time it feels healthy. He draws, he’s an actor. He’s not famous, just a young man with all of life in front of him. Before I always went for very, very uneasy relationships. Even with the father of your ten-year-old son? Oh yeah. He was extremely cruel, but I deeply love him today. I’m very proud of myself for that, because I can see so many people having trouble sharing a kid. My parents [Birkin and director Jacques Doillon] kind of pretend to get along now, but it’s been 25 years that they’ve been split and they still have almost only shit to say about each other. So many women I know make the mistake of seeing the father of their child as an ex-boyfriend. Anyone would get pissed off if the fucker got a new girlfriend—but if it’s the father of your kid, you think, OK, that will be good for the kid. Being somewhat well-known, how was it getting signed? LD Maybe it’s because so many actresses in France went bonkers with records just before mine, but every label told me they weren’t signing actresses. I had to come with my guitar and say, “Just listen!” And they’d say, “No, come back with new songs.” So I’d go

heavyhearted muse Lou doiLLon is channeLing her taLents into moody meLodies that are garnering her even more accLaim

“For a long time people didn’t know where to put me,” says Lou

Doillon, 30, daughter of Jane Birkin and half sister of Charlotte Gainsbourg, about being an It Girl. “No project I ever did was as famous as I was.” Those projects included indie films, designing capsule collections for the denim company Lee Cooper, and modeling for H&M, French Playboy, and Vanessa Bruno. All that has changed with the release of her first LP, Places, which neared top-download status on French iTunes the week of its release and subsequently has been played on just about every sound system in Paris. The record is no starlet’s caprice: full of melancholy, with lush and grown-up songwriting (all hers) and a surprisingly mature voice, it transcends the breathy, cool-girl collaborations of her mother and half sister, and verges into Cat Power or Feist territory. Over a half-pint at her local, Doillon seems as surprised as the rest of us by her newfound, hard-won success. AlexAndrA mArshAll

38

lou doillon in paris, august 2012

PhotogrAPhy kArim sAdli FAshion beAt bolliger

places is currently out on universal Music France

Makeup Yadim (Calliste) Hair Damien Boissinot (Jed Root Inc.) Digital technician Edouard Malfettes (DigitArt, Paris) Photo assistants Antoni Ciufo, Sascha Heintze, Laurent Chouard Stylist assistants Nicolas Kuttler and Lindsey Hornyak Makeup assistant Anna Grzeszczick Hair assistant Yoshiko Haruki Production Michael Lacomblez (PRODn) Production assistants Kevin MacCarthy and Guillaume Garnier Retouching Imag’in, Paris

soul survivor

How did you discover you have a voice? LOU DOILLON I’d been playing guitar for about seven years and writing little songs between five and nine o’clock in the morning, because it was either do that or shoot myself. I guess it was via my girlfriends, who would come around and say, “Do that song again about how your dog’s better than your boyfriend.” But it was always just at home. Now that I’m doing live appearances, I’ve learned that it’s absolutely thrilling to have loads of people singing your songs with you. The album came out in early September, and when I did the first gig a week later, people already knew the lyrics. It’s mad. What got you to bring these songs out to the public? LD Well, the rest of my world started crumbling. I wasn’t doing movies, and life was complicated and I had less and less money. I was locked in my house all day long with my guitar. I didn’t have the courage to open up, and suddenly the songwriting started saving me. I couldn’t talk to people, but I could talk to my guitar. Then Étienne [Daho, French pop star] came around and said, “What the fuck have you been doing for 15 years? Movies are fine, but if there’s one thing you’ve really got, it’s this—so let’s record it!” At first I said, “I can’t! These songs were never written to be heard by tons of people, they’re just too personal!” But I agreed, and we recorded at a studio around the corner over ten days. I thought maybe it would be like movies or everything else that hasn’t worked out. But I also thought, This is maybe the best project of your life because it’s so personal. So at least enjoy it, then see what happens. Who sent Étienne around? Were you friends? LD He was a friend of Charlotte and my mother. He’s very moved by fragile people, and for a long time I was everything but that.

away and come back with five new ones and say, “Come on, sign me!” But in the end my friends who are proper musicians respect me for having gone through some of what they have. It’s surprising to hear how much you play with your voice, since you’re technically inexperienced. LD The fact is I’m a very bad guitarist. So I have to bring out my voice and find different melodies, because I’m always playing the same fucking four or five chords! And there’s also the strange paradox of singing without a mic for seven years—you have to fill the room. Étienne was laughing when we recorded, I’ve got such big teeth I kept knocking them on the mic. People now see you quite differently than they did before. LD Now people stop me in the street and have something to say other than “I love you!”—which, by the way, is lovely, but it’s sometimes a little strange when people will say, “Oh, I love that movie,” and I’m like, “No, I wasn’t in that one” or “No, that one was my sister.” But Charlotte just said to me that for the first time in her life someone stopped her in the street and said, “I love your sister’s voice.” I was like, “Ha! Yes!” So no more movies? LD Music is definitely more pleasurable for me than acting, because when I’m acting I’m more self-conscious. But I did a movie last summer with my father and Samuel Benchetrit called Un Enfant de Toi that should be coming out soon. But what’s really funny is that only now, after the record is out, have I had so much attention from directors! Jacques Audiard (Un Prophète) sent me a lovely note. Michel Gondry, too. How strange that a movie might come through the music. But why not? This is a story with a happy ending, then. LD My mother said, super beautifully, that there’s nothing better than to have done other people’s projects for 17 years and have it not always work out and then suddenly do your own project—and bam! People say, “God there’s something heavy and sad in your voice,” and I think, Yeah, that’s 17 years of hit and miss! I would never have been able to do that at the age of 18 or 20. Right now is a lovely moment to live.


music

After 20 yeArs in the business, tori Amos hAs rerecorded some of her clAssics, bAcked by hollAnd’s metropole orchestrA. here, she reveAls An Affinity for funerAls, medicine men, And metAlheAds When Tori Amos released her breakthrough album, Little Earthquakes, in 1992, she was something of a revelation. While so many of her peers were grunging out and detuning their guitars, Amos’s music slayed with a different kind of intensity. Though her piano-driven songs were almost always pretty on the outside, the subject matter—sex, God, empowerment, joy, destruction, and an almost palpable sense of personal mysticism—was anything but light. Twenty years and 12 million album sales later, Amos is 40

Did doing a project like Gold Dust require you to go back and reexamine your feelings about your previous material? TORI AMOS Well, the songs that were originally chosen to be arranged and performed with the Metropole were initially meant to be for a live concert. I didn’t know that eventually we’d record them. So I picked songs that could create a narrative for just this one evening. I wanted to choose songs that covered a story from death to birth. I remember seeing you play on the “Under the Pink” tour in 1994, and it was the first time I’d ever seen fans burst into tears at the sight of a performer. It can’t always be easy to be on the receiving end of that kind of energy. TA I had to learn how to really ground myself and just hold a space and listen. It’s a very delicate moment. I’ve learned that it’s not really about me as a person per se, but that really I’m just the link between them and the songs…I truly believe that the songs are alive, they are conscious. I think some classical artists have talked about their songs that way, like Stravinsky would say, “I’m listening, I do what they tell me.” I feel that too. Have your process for writing songs and your feelings about performing changed much over the years?

tori amos in new York CitY, september 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy Amy TROOsT FAsHIOn JOdIe BARnes

blouse CHlOÉ Choker ROBeRTO CAvAllI earrings amos’s own

gold dust is out now on deutsChe grammophon/merCurY ClassiCs For more oF this interview, go to vmagazine.Com

Makeup Christian McCulloch (Tim Howard Management) Hair Barry Lee Moe Manicure Rica Romain (See Management) Photo assistants Henry Lopez and Aaron Thomas Stylist assistant Camilla Holes Makeup assistant Chisa Takahashi Hair assistant David Colvin Location Sandbox Studio NY

GoinG dutch

still as fiery as her signature sweep of red hair. Her current album, Gold Dust, celebrates her expansive songbook by reworking select hits, backed by the Metropole Orchestra of the Netherlands. The result is the kind of grand, emotional sound that keeps her loyal following coming back for more. T. COle RACHel

TA Songwriting is so difficult. It can be euphoric, but mostly it’s just lonely. In order to really write, I always have to break the routine. To not have to placate someone else or walk on eggshells, I have to go away. To be a wife, a mother, and a writer? Uh huh. When I’m touring, I just step into being Tori. Backstage, just before I’m about to go on, my husband will say to me, ‘Look after my wife,’ and I tell him that he’ll get her back after the show. He is my sound engineer—his hands have been on my faders since 1994. It’s funny, I’m a wife and a mom, but Tori Amos—the person onstage—is sovereign. She’s something different. Were you fairly cognizant of that early on in your career? TA I feel like the really effective performers do that in order to stay alive. When you hold on to that 220 volts at all times, eventually it burns you alive. That’s why certain musicians turn to drugs and alcohol—they’ve had their hands dipping into this incredible sonic light, which can burn you up if you don’t handle it right. I prepare before I go onstage, no different from how a medicine man in Native American culture might prepare himself. You are a vessel. The muses are there to be served, and if you start to confuse yourself, if you start to believe that you are the muse, they will leave you. Were you always comfortable performing in front of people? TA My mother says that I was playing the piano at age two and I believe her. She is, after all, a good Christian lady and part Cherokee, and not one to embellish. She says I could play before I could talk. My dad was a minister and eventually would have me play at funerals and weddings, it was cheaper than hiring an organist. I would do variations on themes when I played the funerals, and I eventually did that when I played the lounges. It was harder at weddings because the requests were very specific—the Carpenters, Barbra Streisand’s “Evergreen”—but the funerals were much more interesting and I loved playing them. I mean, would that happen today? A nine-year-old playing the piano at a funeral or a wedding? Probably not. Can you imagine a time when you might stop playing live? TA Me in a pair of stilettos and at the piano at 80? Why not? Somebody needs to do it. The media depicts you as this ethereal creature, but just because you are playing a piano and not singing in a death metal band doesn’t necessarily mean that your music is any less intense. TA Yes! The metal guys always seemed to get that. Those guys were always very kind and generous with me. I mean, I did cover a Slayer song. I have a real affinity for metal guys. They understand it’s not always about having the volume at eleven, it’s also about the power of the pen. So what do you feel is the biggest misconception that people might have about you? TA I like a good laugh. I don’t know if I’m funny, but I do love to laugh.


Makeup Brigitte Reiss-Andersen (Jed Root Inc.) Hair Harry Josh (HarryJosh.com) Manicure Marisa Carmichael Photo assistant Emilio Garcia Hernandez Location Sandbox Studio NY

Hat trick

With the release of her third album cementing her status as a bona fide pop star, british darling ellie goulding is shining among the “lights” in more Ways than one Unless you’ve lived under a rock for the past year (and never watch television or go into any sort of clothing store), chances are you’re more than familiar with “Lights,” the breakthrough single from British sensation Ellie Goulding. Having sold more than three million copies in the U.S. alone, the track has catapulted Goulding from the rank of quirky electro-pop princess to that of international superstar, as evidenced by gigs at the White House, a Brit award, a reported romance with highfalutin DJ Skrillex, and a personal invitation to perform at Kate and William’s royal nuptials. In her spare time, Goulding recorded Halcyon, a gorgeous selection of euphoric pop songs and plaintive ballads guaranteed to keep her in the spotlight for a long time to come. T. Cole RaChel After your last record blew up and your song, “Lights,” was suddenly everywhere, did you take a lot of time off before getting to

work on the sophomore album? ELLIE GOULDING I didn’t really take time off. I recorded in between visiting America and doing various little things. I went out to the countryside near Herefordshire, where I grew up, and did a lot of writing there. I spent a lot of time traveling with my

boyfriend as well. I also did some writing in Ireland. I went out there for a couple of weeks with just my guitar to be by the ocean. A lot of the lyrics were inspired by poetry and stuff I read while I was there. The prospect of getting to play this whole new batch of songs must be exciting. EG I mean, it’s definitely nerve-racking, but I reckon once I’ve done a few shows it will get easier. My voice is about the way I shape my body, the way I project, and the way I move my mouth. So I have to get in touch with my muscle memory in regards to my voice…and then eventually I can start really performing. Halcyon has big pop songs and also lots of really intimate ballads. Your work kind of transcends what most people think of as being traditional pop music. Do you mind being thought of as a pop star? EG I dunno. I suppose I like the idea. I could also just play my songs on the guitar and perform alone. I like that I can just do a lot of different things and appeal to a lot of different people. I’d like to be thought of as a good songwriter. I’d like that. I’d say the majority of your new songs—even the upbeat ones— have some little kernel of darkness at their core. EG Oh yeah. I kind of knew that was the way this record would turn out. I sensed early on that it was probably not gonna be too happy. That’s always been my writing style anyway. Do you feel like this is what you were born to do? EG Not really. There were some people who told me I could sing, but plenty of others who thought my voice was too weird and unusual. It’s funny, I was just watching a video of an interview with one of my old music teachers who was telling everyone “Oh, I always knew Ellie would be a successful singer!” and I kept thinking that she must be lying because I never gave anyone an indication that I wanted to be a singer. I was naughty and always messing about in class. With this new record I can only imagine that life will get crazier for you. How are you dealing with it? EG It’s exhausting at times, I never knew you could actually go to so many different places over the course of one day. I just want

people to be aware of my music. I could release something and not do any promotion, but I feel like doing all this stuff is just another part of the job. I don’t mind it. You are one of the few people in the world who knows what it’s like to play on a huge festival stage, at the White House, and at the royal wedding. EG I still can’t believe that any of that stuff happened. To record a cover of Elton John’s “Your Song” and then be asked to play the royal wedding…it’s just surreal. Wonderful and surreal. Elton John is not one to hold back his opinions, so I’m sure you would have heard about it if he were unhappy. EG Exactly. If he doesn’t mind telling off Madonna, I certainly wouldn’t be spared! “Lights” was such a big hit here in the States. What has your experience been like spending time over here? EG I never came to America as a child—in fact, I never really went anywhere as a child—so my idea of America was solely based on Hollywood and my imagined version of what New York City might be like from watching television. This year I had the experience of taking a train with my boyfriend through the U.S. and Canada—we’d stop in all these little places and see these beautiful lakes and waterfalls. I wasn’t prepared for how beautiful it is. I grew up around the remains of old houses and factory buildings, so being out in the country next to rivers and such was just so amazing to me. Sudden fame can be such a weird thing to wrap your head around. Do you feel changed by the experience? EG The only thing that has changed is that I’m way more efficient. I’ve learned how to say no when I need to, whereas before I would be afraid to disappoint people. Anyone who knows me will tell you, I am notoriously laid-back.

ELLIE GOULDING IN NEW YORK CITY, AUGUST 2012

PhoTogRaPhy PhiliPPe Vogelenzang Fashion DelPhine DanhieR

DRESS eMPoRio aRMani HAT gioRgio aRMani

HALCYON IS CURRENTLY OUT ON CHERRY TREE/INTERSCOpE


P O W E R


H O U S E when it comes to fearless females (or she-males) ruling the airwaves, these familiar faces dish the most from coast to coast. the empire of empowered emcees has emerged

RuPAUL

Title of production: RuPaul’s Drag Race (World of Wonder/LOGO)

Objective: To discover America’s next drag superstar. How long have you been in the business? We are going into our fifth season of the show. How many auditions have there been? I’ve seen just under a thousand submissions for RuPaul’s Drag Race. Who have been some of your most noteworthy discoveries? Sharon Needles, Raja, Chad Michaels, Raven, Pandora Box, JuJubee, Manila Luzon, Willam, and Latrice Royale. What makes you a great host? Charisma, uniqueness, nerve, and talent. Whose opinions do you trust most when evaluating new talent? I trust my gut. What are the most rewarding aspects of your job, and what are the most difficult? The most rewarding part is introducing these brilliant, courageous queens to the rest of the world. The show airs in 25 different countries and my girls perform all over the globe. The most difficult is saying “sashay away” to a contestant after she lip-synchs for her life. Was there anyone who nurtured you in the beginning? I discovered myself. Who are some of your favorite stars, past and present? Cher, David Bowie, Diana Ross, Kylie Minogue, Mo’Nique, and Beyoncé. What’s your personal motto? If you don’t love yourself, how in the hell are you gonna love someone else?

PhotograPhy Mathu andersen the Photo includes Part of the creative teaM and crew froM season 5 of ruPaul’s drag race front row, froM left: natasha Marcelina, ruPaul, toM caMPbell, randy barbato, JaMes Mcgowen, steven corfe back row, froM left: cody recker, Paul curzon, thairin sMothers, aaron young, Mathu anderson, dennis “gino” hernandez, alicia Magana, bruce Mccoy, danny hernandez, John Polly, brandon duke, chanel Perillo (not Pictured) 43


powerhouse

RICKI LAKE

Title of production: The Ricki Lake Show (Monet Lane Productions) How long have you been in the business? Are you trying to remind everyone that I’m 44?! I have been performing on New York cabaret stages since I was barely a teenager, but my first real role was in Hairspray. John Waters discovered me when I was a freshman in college. How many episodes have you done? Of Ricki 2.0, about 45 so far. Of the original show? 2,100. That’s a lot of television, folks! Who have been some of your favorite or most noteworthy guests? All of my guests have been really amazing—I wish I could have the world’s largest dinner party and invite them all! Some standouts have been Regena “Mama Gena” Thomashauer, talking about female sexuality, Lance Bass, sharing his coming out story, and Storm Large, leading an audience sing-along about vaginas like a 21st-century Joan Baez. What makes you a great host? Thanks for the compliment. I think this format comes naturally to me because there is nothing I like more than meeting interesting people and finding out what makes them tick. I have an innate curiosity, and I have the same questions as everybody else. Plus I actually say what everyone is thinking! What do you love most about the medium of television? I think television shrinks the world. It creates a sense of community among people who are spread across the globe. It still feels like magic to me. Whose opinions do you trust most when it comes to booking guests and coming up with ideas for the show? Josh [Sabarra, Consulting Producer] is a voracious reader; if a book is coming out next year, you can bet he’s already read it. Rebecca [DiLiberto, Senior Producer and Writer] is hyperaware of trends and what’s in the zeitgeist. And nobody can turn the big, bad Internet into a town square like Bryan [Moore, Social Media Director]. How lucky am I? Our brainstorming meetings

often take place around the dinner table at my house, where we all fight over the last piece of dessert while my kids play music in the background. These “idea meetings” have been happening for years—even before I decided to go back into television! What goes into a single episode? Take us from conception to airtime. We start with an all-staff brainstorming meeting. I usually come with a list of topics that I want to cover. As a group we discuss our fantasy version of that show—who the ideal guests would be, ways to create visual interest and unforgettable moments. Then the show is assigned to an individual producing team and they get down to business finding the most compelling guests. Their task is to tap into the primal nature of storytelling while keeping things totally fresh. About a week later, I read background on all my guests the night before taping and then get into details with the producing team the morning we record. After that it’s hair and makeup and then time to shoot! What are the most rewarding aspects of your job, and what are the most difficult? I love opening people’s eyes to what’s going on in the world. Being able to tell human stories in a way that educates and entertains at the same time is very rewarding to me. The most difficult part is creating a work-life balance. I juggle many things, and my family is always the priority. Was there anyone who nurtured you in the beginning? My grandma Sylvia was so nurturing to me. She would take me to the theater in New York all the time, and she believed in my talent unconditionally. My first big break came from my Hollywood Dad, John Waters; he started it all! Do you have any role models within the industry who you’ve looked up to? I would be remiss if I didn’t point to the greats of the daytime format, people like Phil Donahue and Oprah Winfrey. They paved the way for daily, issues-oriented programming. I also look up to many of the people I have worked with over the years—such as Divine and Shirley MacLaine. What’s your personal motto? It’s all in my book: never say never!

PhotograPhy Pamela littky from left: rebecca Diliberto, ricki lake, bryan moore, Josh sabarra


Photo assistants Jordan Zuppa and Anders Wallace Equipment rental ROOT [EQ]

WENDY WILLIAMS

Title of production: The Wendy Williams Show (Talk WW Production Inc.) How long have you been in the business? I’ve been in TV approximately seven years. For a few years during my radio show I had a special on VH1, and now The Wendy Williams Show is in our fourth season. Before, I was involved with radio for 23 years. How many episodes have you done? Around 515. We celebrated our 500th show in May. Who have been some of your favorite guests? It’s all been a wonderland for me. A woman from New Jersey, I never thought I would have a talk show! I’ve loved everyone from Elmo and Big Bird to Simon Cowell, Dianne Carroll, Patti LaBelle, Paris Hilton…I enjoy it every day! We’ve had performances from Justin Bieber and Nas, couch talk with Whoopi Goldberg and Kelly Ripa (my daytime girlfriends), Piers Morgan, Larry King, James Earl Jones…from reality stars to politicians, we have an eclectic mix of guests. What makes you a great host? All my life I’ve been a conduit for various people. Growing up I always had an unexpected friendship circle. People realize when they come on our show that my audience and my cohosts are tastemakers, they are the ones buying products. What do you love most about the medium of television? I love that I don’t have to evoke my emotions through my voice. In radio, inflection and pronunciation are so important, because radio is a theater of the mind. Now I’m able to wave my hands like a true Jersey girl! I can awkwardly adjust my clothes, pull at my hair, and many times there are situations on our show where it may be too much for words and I just have to look at the camera and dim my eyes or purse my lips and people get it. Whose opinions do you trust most when it comes to booking guests and coming up with ideas for the show? My executive producers David Perler and Kevin Hunter. Kevin is also my manager and my husband. We’ve been married for 14 years. David I trust as well. David knows talk in and out, he’s been on the Rosie circuit, the George Lopez circuit, he’s been around. He’s also smart and incisive, and I need that. What goes into a single episode? Take us from conception to airtime. A single episode is shot live out of New York at 10 am every weekday morning. One episode is 44 minutes of programming, the other 16 is commercials. Every day I have a meeting with all my producers, from hot topics to segment producers, if there’s a fashion show there’s a producer for that also, and everyday we have a phone conference in the afternoons. They chock me full of DVDs and TV schedules, because I have my favorites and things that I watch to prepare for the show. My staff works tirelessly everyday, until

six at night, and then we are constantly back and forth on the telephone. My cell phone is always charged up and ready to have conversations. I’ve done things like pull down a chair from the lawn department at Target or in Home Depot and sit down and literally have a full-blown conversation in the middle of a store! What are the most rewarding aspects of your job, and what are the most difficult? My son is 12, he’s part of a new generation. The most rewarding is when he is proud, and he says, “Mommy you were good for our people.” I think, Oh my gosh, thank you! My parents will call me up—they get the show in Miami. They’ll say, “Wendy, we loved today’s show. We had no idea who Amanda Bynes was, and WOW. Thank you for breaking it down.” When I’m out in public I can’t hide, I’m 5' 11". People come up and say we love your show, and they are of all ages, colors, religious backgrounds, and beliefs. That right there is the holy grail. The most difficult is trying to make everyone happy while trying to make me happy. I don’t have time! I get it, you want a hug, you feel like you know me. But honestly, I gotta go! It’s more difficult being a real person who happens to be on TV than being a celebrity known for being a movie star and playing a character. Was there anyone who nurtured you in the beginning? Me. I was born into a working-class family in New Jersey, and my mom and dad dreamed big within the confines of what they knew. They would have loved me to become a doctor, a lawyer, or a professor on the college level. They didn’t know the bigger dream, because that’s not what the culture was. I wanted to be in media, but there were no relatives or family friends, there was nothing. I would fantasize and apply for jobs, but it was a fantasy. My parents’ sacrifice for me is my biggest inspiration—initially I wanted to pay my parents back, in terms of progress and success. Do you have any role models within the industry who you’ve looked up to? There is no one person, but there are bits and pieces of people that I really do love. Oprah is obviously the queen. She really laid down a body of work that will never be overlooked. I also have to interject Diane Carroll, who was the first black woman to lead a dramedy on TV. I can only imagine the years of interesting chat she must have heard to get her career to where it was. I also admire Goldie Hawn. There is something to be said for not getting married and keeping it respectful. We are both 20 years younger in spirit than we are in age, and I love that about her! She’s still sexy! What’s your personal motto? It is what it is. When it all comes down to it, I love my life. It’s so random and weird.

PhotograPhy JaSoN KIM froM left: aNtwoN JacKSoN, JoSePh BalloN, DeB MIller, alexaNDra Jewett, PaM SMIth, DavID Perler, weNDy wIllIaMS, JaSoN gaBel, MelISSa PoSy, MeMSor KaMaraKe, Merrell hollIS


V NeWs state of grace

Grace Coddington has one of those careers that people get-

46

Harper’s Bazaar photography © Richard Dormer Book photography Spencer Higgins Photo assistant Tomo Hatano

ting into fashion now can only dream about. It spans over 50 years and is packed with as many tales as accrued air miles, as one would expect from someone who traverses the globe drawing inspiration from every corner for a living. She got her start by entering Vogue’s Young Model competition at age 17, and was soon posing for the likes of Helmut Newton, David Bailey, Norman Parkinson, and others. After a car accident, Coddington refocused her talents, eventually becoming the photo editor at British Vogue before hopping the pond to Calvin Klein and then the magazine’s American counterpart, where she has been a preeminent member of the Vogue tribe for the past 24 years. As anyone who has seen The September Issue can attest, there is a real warmth to Coddington’s sensibility, both personally and aesthetically. She cares about her projects no matter how big or small. A photo-driven coffee-table book of the same name was published in 2002, while Grace ($35, Random House), the memoir, provides the insight behind the iconic imagery. Early reviews are tantalizing, especially for anyone who appreciates the art démodé. sarah cristobal


KeYed in

Yoko Ono is nothing if not tuned in. At 79 years old, she is a social media standout, actively contributing daily musings to Twitter and Instagram with aplomb. Her ability to engage with the world around her takes on a familiar form this fall with a Swarovski Elements partnership, in which she revisits a previous creation. “I designed a glass key in the ’60s, and Swarovski liked my artwork, which inspired them to create a key in crystal,” she says. “A key gives you a certain kind of spiritual power.” The artist was playing with the notion of “unlocking the door to a better life.” Infinite wisdom and an improved existence? Now who doesn’t want that for the holidays? Cb

swarovski Crystal key Cuts by yoko ono ($90–$350, sWaroVski.CoM)

Valentino Garavani and Natalia Vodianova

the master

A visionairy whose legacy can never be questioned, Valentino Garavani is the subject of a new exhibition that celebrates his life and haute couture designs, opening this month at London’s Somerset House. Valentino: Master of Couture is an assemblage of 130 handmade creations, worn by Grace Kelly, Gwyneth Paltrow, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, and other fabulous women from the realms of red carpet and royalty. The pieces, procured from this highfalutin clientele, make up the designer’s most comprehensive couture exhibit to date. “Each of these designs has a beautiful story,” says Valentino. “The atelier crafted each so diligently by hand, taking hours, sometimes days to complete.” The exhibition is broken into three sections: a room full of personal photographs; an actual runway one can strut down; and beyond Princess Marie Chantal’s exquisite wedding dress (featuring 10 different types of lace), a virtual museum—the icon’s latest endeavor. It’s an enriching experience for any fashionphile. Christopher barnard

Valentino: Master of Couture runs noVeMber 29–MarCh 3 at soMerset house

armani rides the wave

Nature has always inspired Giorgio Armani’s creative process. Just

look at his most recent Spring 2013 runway collection which calls to mind visions of the cosmos. Back on planet Earth, the designer is an official partner in the annual Paris Photo fair where he is curating “Acqua #2,” featuring the works of nine photographers (including Anthony Friedkin, above) who collectively chose water as their subject. It’s appropriate territory for a designer whose presence in fashion is as powerful as the tides. Cb

breaking WaVe, VeniCe beaCh California, 1978 the paris photo fair runs noVeMber 15–18 at the grand palais

hOLY retUrn

“The new film was born of my incapacity to carry out several projects, all of

Clockwise from top: © Cathleen Naundorf courtesy Swarovski courtesy Christophe Guye Galerie/Anthony Friedken courtesy Jimmy Choo

them in another language and another country,” explains revered director Leos Carax of his first feature in 13 years, Holy Motors. The consolidation of disparate ideas into one motion picture is at once evident and enthralling: a captain of industry called Monsieur Oscar (played masterfully by French actor Denis Lavant) is driven to a series of nine appointments by his faithful chauffer, Celine (Edith Scob), between them altering his appearance and identity, serially and seamlessly taking on parallel lives. Homeless old woman, digitally body-mapped martial artist, unhinged sewer-dweller, deadbeat father, brutal assassin, and romantic lead in a musical costarring Kylie Minogue are among the indentities he inhabits in the course of a single day. Not since 1999’s POLA X has Carax been able to wrangle the casting and the cash to create such a full-fledged theatrical feature, and the impact with which Motors takes to the screen could easily be seen as his raison d’être. Through his protagonist’s delirious journey, Carax creates nothing short of a fantasia of celluloid delights: a dreamlike, incandescent love letter to Paris and the history of French cinema—and a magical return for the master of French New Wave. It is not to be missed. patrik sandberg

holy Motors is in theaters in noVeMber

bear necessities

“I think Jimmy Choo’s aesthetic is very similar,” says artist Rob Pruitt, who is unveiling a capsule collection with the luxury brand this month. “It’s never shying away from extremes—too sexy, the highest heels, colors that are unexpected and shocking.” The resulting merch (think bold bags, shoes, and accessories ranging from $175 scarves to $15,000 minaudières) will feature Pruitt’s signature lovable character: “The panda is an international symbol that reminds us both to tread lightly and to appreciate the adorable,” says Pruitt. “They represent the harmony of yin and yang.” Cb

ling-ling bag and anouCk puMp rob pruitt x JiMMy Choo ($1,125 and $950, JiMMyChoo.CoM)


news

Still from Lady Gaga Fame, a film by Steven Klein

monsters inc.

what does fame smell like? Just ask lady gaga, who outsold all other celebrity scents in her first week In the hypercompetitive world of celebrity fragrance, Lady Gaga needed only seven days to reach all-star status. Fame, her debut

perfume, launched this past fall in collaboration with Coty and

was an instant home run. It sold more bottles in one week than any other celebrity fragrance of 2011, making it the most suc-

cessful launch in history. Celebrity perfumes are known for being cloyingly commercial—so why would Gaga, who is anything but generic, want to have one? She didn’t, at first. “I had always joked when other celebrities launched fragrances, ‘Ugh, I hate this. No!’ And then I said, ‘You know what? If I ever do that, I’m going to make it fucking black.’” Her idea—the first black perfume—was enough to attract legendary collaborators Steven Klein, who shot the print and TV ads, and Nick Knight, who designed the grenadelike bottle. “They are photographic heroes in my mind,” she gushes. “I wanted to shine a light on them, the people that inspire me.” Hundreds of perfumers bid for the job of concocting the scent.

“It was the most competitive project ever,” explains Richard Herpin of Firmenich, who eventually won the contract. Yet Gaga’s approval of the exact formula was hard to come by. It took Herpin six months and thousands of variations before he arrived at Fame, a fruity floral based on the deadly belladonna plant. “I was a real pain in the ass to work with,” Gaga admits. “I wanted something that would stand the test of time.” The fragrance’s blockbuster success had Coty execs dreaming up a sequel just days after the launch, but Gaga isn’t in a rush. “I think it’s silly when an artist makes most of their money selling perfume,” she says. Her monstrous music career comes first. “What if I were to have sold my new album with my perfume?” she wonders aloud. “I would have sold 6 million copies in one week. Just something to think about.” CAITLIN GAFFEY

ima read: books for the fashionably minded kate: the kate Moss Book Face of a generation Kate Moss handpicked the 300 color and black-and-

white images that fill this personal tome—including the eight separate covers—each taken by a world-famous photographer. Trace her journey from waif to one of fashion’s most enduring icons.

($85, Rizzoliusa.coM)

teRRywood

panty raid

Liz Goldwyn has found a great deal of inspiration in her

M.a.c faBulousness holiday collection (MaccosMetics.coM) 48

($60, oh-wow.coM)

in youR face Get up close and personal with storied

fashion photog Mario Testino. This colorful softcover showcases what happens when the iconic lensman focuses on some of the most famous visages in the world.

($60, taschen.coM)

alexandeR McQueen: the life and legacy Judith Watt canvasses McQueen’s career from CSM graduate to his suicide at age 40. Illustrations from the designer and a foreword by Daphne Guinness round out this compelling read.

($35, haRPeRcollins.coM)

Fame photography courtesy Haus Laboratories Book photography Spencer Higgins Photo assistant Tomo Hatano

underwear drawer. The writer and filmmaker—who made a hit documentary about burlesque—looked to her knickers yet again when dreaming up her newest collaboration: bags for M.A.C’s Fabulousness Holiday Collection. “The whole project is inspired by my own lingerie,” she explains. “The leopard-print pattern was inspired by my treasured knickers. I sent them to M.A.C to look at, with the caveat that they be returned quickly.” The pieces that Goldwyn created are models of flirt and function: the cosmetic bag can store all the essentials, with pockets for toiletries, a sewing kit, and even condoms, while the red-carpet clutch holds everything a girl needs for a night out—credit card, keys, phone, and lipstick. That such practicality could be educed from her underpinings amuses Goldwyn greatly. “I still love the idea of people passing my vintage lingerie around the conference table,” she laughs. dErEk bLAsbErG

Following his successful show of the same name at OHWOW earlier this year, Terry Richardson has released the exhibition in book form, including behindthe-scenes and opening-night party pics.


Eva Mendes

Available at Bloomingdale’s

EAU DE PARFUM

mugler.com


news

Malmaison

Illustration by P. J. Redoute

Empress Josephine

Jewelry Piaget rose ColleCtion

yves piaget combines his two Life passions—jeweLry and roses—to create botanicaL-inspired beauty worthy of royaL accLaim Yves Piaget, fourth generation heir and president of his family’s venerable watch and jewelry company, is a sure-footed businessman who has devoted himself to running the enterprise founded by his great-grandfather in 1874 in the Jura Mountains of Switzerland. In doing so, he has embraced the mantra coined by his forebearer, “Always do better than necessary.” But outside of business, Piaget’s primary passion is roses. “For me,” explains the flower enthusiast, “[the rose] brings to mind childhood and my first love for the wild roses called Sweetbriars, which thrive at 50

A cultivated jet-setter, Piaget’s involvement in prestigious international rose federations and competitions has culminated in the ultimate honor for a rose-lover: the christening of an awardwinning new variety with his own name. The Yves Piaget rose was born in 1982; for its namesake, the moment was emotional: “On that day, I was the same color as my rose.” Thirty years later, the commendation still resonates—enough so that Piaget is celebrating the anniversary with a special Rose Collection. Offerings run the gamut from simple pink gold ear studs to pitch-perfect cocktail pieces (like the lacework pavé cuff) to extravagant red-carpet fare, including the lavish “secret” bracelet watch (set with 668 diamonds), all featuring a stylized version of the house rose. Each piece is conceived and sketched by Piaget’s jewelry design team, led by the company’s charmingly unassuming creative director, Jean-Bernard Forot. The plans then pass to a crack team of master technicians, gemologists, and artisans who engineer, handcraft, and assemble every minute detail of the collection at the company’s neatly innovative facility, a combination corporate office and manufacturing workshop just outside of Geneva. The process from conception to finished product is formidable, with one complicated piece taking up to

two months to complete. The outcome is exquisite, the jewels a worthy salute to the Yves Piaget rose. Besides the commemorative jewelry collection, Piaget will celebrate the pearl anniversary of his namesake bloom through patronage. Mr. Piaget was recently connected through botany world friends to the head gardener at the Château de Malmaison—the 18th-century country home of Napoléon and Josephine Bonaparte, now a national museum in need of funding for an ambitious garden restoration. The project was a perfect match for Piaget, who had been searching for a philanthropic way to honor the rose. Underwritten by the watch and jewelry maker, Empress Josephine’s famous rose garden will be faithfully renewed to its former glory with the 250 antique varieties originally cultivated by her majesty’s botanists. The chateau grounds will also feature a separate rose garden filled with (you guessed it) Yves Piaget roses, a greenhouse, and an orangery bursting with exotic specimens that Josephine imported and adapted to the climate back in the day—namely pineapple, olive, and citrus trees, Buddha’s hand, magnolias, and guava plants. All told, the renovation will take two years to complete; the official opening is scheduled for 2014, the bicentennial of the Empress’s death. Joanna RodgeR

PhotogRaPhy sPenceR higgins Fashion michael gleeson

Still life photography Spencer Higgins Photo assistant Tomo Hatano courtesy Piaget

FLOWER POWER

1,100 meters. It was [later in life] that I discovered nursery roses.”


The scenTs of The season are more Than jusT olfacTory sTandouTs. embrace The dark arTs conTained wiThin These beauTiful boTTles

PhotograPhy robin broadbent beauty CaitLin gaFFey CloCkwise from top: Jo MaLone VelVet rose & oud Cologne ($135, jomalone.Com) ChaneL CoCo noir ($98, Chanel.Com) thierry MugLer angel fragranCe of leather ($88, saks.Com) baLenCiaga florabotaniCa ($95, neimanmarCus.Com) etat Libre d’orange dangerous CompliCity ($149, minnewyork.Com) Lady gaga fame ($79, sephora.Com) 52

Postproduction Lolly Koon

BLACK MAGIC


Makeup Ozzy Salvatierra (Streeters) Hair David Von Cannon (Streeters) Models Alexa Corlett (Fusion), Kelsey Gerry (DNA) Manicure Liang (Atelier Management) Photo assistants Jared Christiansen and Sharone Poole Digital technician Stephen Wordie Fashion assistant George Georgopoulos Location Fast Ashleys Brooklyn

anniversary

“My desire was and still is to Make sportswear elegant and chic. with y-3, we created soMething that did not exist before. after 10 years, we are falling in love with the three stripes once More.” –yohji yaMaMoto

power stripe

the spring 2013 collection marks the tenth anniversary of designer yohji yamamoto’s arrival at y-3. his decade-long collaboration with adidas—predicated on cool, sporty elegance and its three signature stripes—makes him a champion of the fashion set. here, v is the first to photograph the new season in all its graphic glory. game on PhotograPhy Bjarne jonasson Fashion Zara Zachrisson


accessories

CloCkwise from Top:

chloĂŠ elsie evening Bag ($1,395, Chloe.Com)

chanel versailles flapBag ($5,300, Chanel.Com)

devi Kroell l’avenue Bag ($1,290, devikroell.Com)

sissirossi drawsTring Bag

($449, shop.sissirossi.iT)

reed KraKoff mini shoulder Bag ($790, reedkrakoff.Com)

salvatore ferragamo leaTher mini handBag ($1,150, salvaToreferragamo.Com)

just in time for the holidays, mini bags are making a major statement. available in an array of styles and hues, these petite purses are party-hopping perfection PhotograPhy sPencer higgins fashion christoPher barnard 54

Photo assistant Andres Guillard

bite size


FROM LEFT: IRIS WEARS JAckET (AS HEADDRESS) issey miyake DRESS gucci BLOuSE derek Lam PAnTS kenzo SHOES BaLenciaga By nicoLas ghesquière HIRScHY WEARS SkIRT (AS HAT) BaLenciaga By nicoLas ghesquière SkIRT (AS HEADDRESS) roBerto cavaLLi JAckET AnD SAnDALS kenzo BLOuSE derek Lam PAnTS issey miyake SOckS WigWam

world beat The resorT season is rife wiTh wanderlusT aTTire. Traverse The globe in gypsy-inspired looks made for ardenT fashion explorers PhotograPhy amy troost fashion Jodie Barnes

Makeup Christian McCulloch (Tim Howard Management) Hair Esther Langham Models Hirschy Hirschfelder and Iris Egbers (Supreme Management) Manicure Rica Romain (See Management) Photo assistants Henry Lopez and Aaron Thomas Stylist assistant Camilla Holes Hair assistant David Colvin Location Sandbox Studio, NY


cruise lines

three top designers divulge the inspirations—From madame du Barry to leonardo da vinci—Behind their recent resort collections

Designer: Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel Location: The Palace of Versailles The Brief: At the gardens of Versailles, one cannot deny that the spirit of Marie Antoinette is always in the air. From the outset it certainly seemed that the Chanel resort show—with its 18th-century silhouettes and floaty, frothy details—paid homage to the French queen. “But it wasn’t just Marie Antoinette,” 56

Karl Lagerfeld said knowingly at the after-show garden party. “I was thinking about Madame du Barry too. She was considered the most beautiful woman in France, and one of its first fashion icons. She was much more kinky than Antoinette, and the real woman to play with menswear influences.” (The house of Chanel has always known a thing or two about women who wear the pants.)

This being a Lagerfeld production, one reference would never have sufficed, so he brought the 18th century into the future, recreating France’s golden age in denim, chambray, and even plastic. As if that weren’t enough, he also threw in some 1950s-inspired metallic creeper shoes, sure to become a must-have accessory. The overall effect was one of fashionable rebellion, something Madame du Barry and Marie Antoinette had in common—besides


“MadaMe du Barry was Much More kinky than antoinette, and the real woMan to play with Menswear influences.” –karl lagerfeld, chanel

Clothing and aCCessories chanel

a penchant for kings named Louis. Even the show’s music was supplied by bad girls with points of view: Azealia Banks and M.I.A., who might well have provided soundtracks to the young royals’ lives had electronica-infused hip-hop been the rage in 18th-century France. Historically the fountains of Versailles would only be turned on as the king strode by them. It was fitting, then, that when Lagerfeld entered to take his bow, the ground’s impressive wellsprings weren’t

shut off until he and the show’s VIPs (including Tilda Swinton, Vanessa Paradis, and Inès de la Fressange) had made their way through the gardens. Alice Dellal’s all-girl rock band, Thrush Metal, performed at the party, although Dellal—the current face of Chanel’s Boy handbag campaign—slipped out of the embroidered cocktail dress she had worn during the show and into her own black minidress and tattered tights. She prefers clothes of

her own when she plays the drums, she explained, noting that the Chanel threads are perfect for finer occasions. “Isn’t that the point of fashion? And of Chanel?” she smiled. “Karl can make anyone look like a lady. Even me!” Derek BlasBerg

karl lagerfeld and models at Versailles, may 2012

PhotograPhy simon Procter


Makeup Asami Taguchi (L’Atelier NYC) Hair Mark Hampton (Julian Watson Agency) Models Atong Arjok, Ataui Deng (Trump), Ajak Deng (IMG) Manicure Marisa Carmichael Photo assistants Matthew Hawkes and Myles Blankenship Digital technician Julia Comita (Blank Digital) Fashion assistants Carrie Weidner and Pablo Marcus Bien Retouching Blank [Post] Locations Fast Ashleys Brooklyn

“Last year, for the 10-year anniversary, i started the coLLection with aLL those coLorfuL cLothes made with a fabric used to make bras. and i thought, wow, i wiLL make dresses! these are the kind of new fabrics that women can Lose two sizes without having pLastic surgery.” –aLber eLbaz, Lanvin


Designer: Alber Elbaz, Lanvin Location: Milk Studios, NYC The Brief: During the dog days of summer, Alber Elbaz presented his Resort 2013 collection for Lanvin to a small group of editors lounging on overstuffed chairs and cozy couches. The intimacy of the presentation was appropriate, given Elbaz’s louche state of mind. He showed a fun spin on pajama dressing, packed with metallic punches in the form of jackets, pants, and shirtwaists. “Resort is about solutions,” said the designer. “For this collection, everything is a question of comfort and new volumes.” It was innovative to say the least. He utilized brassiere material to fantastic, slimming effect. “Last season, for the 10-year anniversary, I started the collection with all those colorful clothes made with a fabric used to make bras,” he says. “And I thought, Wow, I will make dresses! These are the kind of new fabrics that women can lose two sizes without having plastic surgery.” He also made a point of explaining the importance of accessories, exemplified by decadent necklaces, bangles, and brooches. In Elbaz’s luxurious dream sequence, there is always something wonderful to wake up to. CHRiSTOPHER BaRnaRD

collections

atong, ataui, and ajak in new york City, august 2012

PHOTOgRaPHy SHaRif Hamza faSHiOn TOm van DORPE

Clothing and aCCessories Lanvin


“The link beTween leonardo da Vinci and SalVaTore Ferragamo? being Very iTalian, Very proud oF being FlorenTine, and The workmanShip.” –maSSimiliano giorneTTi, SalVaTore Ferragamo

Designer: Massimiliano Giornetti, Salvatore Ferragamo Location: The Louvre, Paris The Brief: “I’m sorry for being so emotional,” says Massimiliano Giornetti, 41, dabbing tears from his eyes backstage at the Louvre after showing his Resort 2013 collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. After such an effort, he needn’t apologize. Giornetti sent out 43 very on-point looks whose easybreezy sexiness belied an OCD level of workmanship: a knotted cutout motif popped up on ’70s-style over-the-knee python boots, suede trousers, and jackets; a suede pencil skirt was almost overtaken by fringe; a sweater-shift made of metal sequins and crocheted leather cord took four people 10 days to make. The earthy pastel palette, deceptively casual, provided the kind of calm, neutral background that shows off embellishment and ornamentation best. From the sound of the buzz at the after-party, below I. M. Pei’s Pyramid, this was most definitely considered a knockout show, unexpectedly so, as resort is usually considered an afterthought. Said Anna Dello Russo: “This was really a collection! This was not just resort.” Ferragamo named Giornetti its creative director two years ago, after the designer had spent 10 years turning the brand’s menswear collections into must-haves. But this show was his true coming out, and it was well-timed, standing out against a schedule otherwise dominated by low-key presentations and capsules. Ferragamo marked the occasion lavishly, in terms of both money and headaches. You think it’s easy to get the Louvre to open its doors for a fashion show for the first time in its history? It certainly helped that the house sponsored a special exhibition on Leonardo da Vinci’s Saint Anne, considered the artist’s last (though unfinished) masterpiece. Giornetti even drew a parallel or two between da Vinci’s technical innovations and Salvatore Ferragamo’s. While the latter did not give us a self-propelled cart in the 15th century, he did invent the metal shank, allowing for a new level of structure (and heel height) in women’s shoes. Among the 500 or so guests assembled at the show, there was little debate concerning whose work was more impactful. ALEXANDRA MARSHALL

models at the ferragamo resort show at the louvre, Paris, may 2012

pHotogRApHy ScHoHAjA

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Clothing and aCCessories

SALvAtoRE FERRAgAMo


’tis the season This holiday spoil your loved ones wheTher They’re downTown chic or upTown fabulous. our sparkling, fashion-filled gifT guide will lead The way phoTography daniel lindh

62


downtown darlings clockwise from Top lefT:

BurBerry Prorsum cropped leaTher JackeT ($2,595, burberry.com)

AlexAnder mcQueen T-shirT ($275, elyse walker, 310.230.8882) eddie Borgo rose Gold pavÉ sTar cuff ($1,375, NeimaNmarcus.com)

mArc By mArc JAcoBs aNimal iphoNe cover ($48, marcJacobs.com)

diAne von FurstenBerg paper “chaiN liNk” speakers ($55, dvf.com)

AlexAnder WAng

bike lock wiTh blackeNed sTeel chaiN ($145, 212.977.9683, alexaNderwaNG.com)

lomogrAPHy la sardiNa domiNo camera ($69, 212.529.4353, lomoGraphy.com)

guess chaiN liNk braceleT ($32, 212.226.9545, Guess.com) tHeyskens’ tHeory feaTher box cluTch ($490, 212.524.6790)

deBorAH liPPmAnn Nail lacquer iN ThrouGh The fire aNd cleopaTra iN New york ($18, NordsTrom.com)

m.A.c cosmetics perfecTly plush brush iN miNeralize ($50, maccosmeTics.com)

oriBe miNi après beach spray ($20, NeimaNmarcus.com)

sPortmAx raccooN fur cuff

($275, 212.674.1817)

givencHy By riccArdo tisci leaTher aNd crysTal embroidered zip pouch ($7,690, maxfield, 310.274.8800)

louis vuitton amuleT sequiN loafer ($975, 866.884.8866)

nicole miller aTelier sequiN shorTs ($190, 212.219.1825, Nicolemiller.com)

reed krAkoFF buTTerfly frame suNGlasses iN black ($275, 212.988.0560)

comme des gArÇons pouch

($187, 212.604.9200)

nArs aNdy warhol sofT Touch shadow peNcil iN Trash aNd silver facTory ($24 each, sephora.com)


Prop Styling Rachel Haas (Jed Root Inc.) Photo assistant Ward Price and Neal Franc Prop styling assistant Leah Mulatrick Production Francesco Savi Production Coordinator Daniel Weiner Location ROOT [Brooklyn]


uptown girls CloCkwise from Top lefT: Hermès Diary Cover ($1,775, 800.441.4488)

smytHson Dragonfly noTe CarD/envelope seT anD reD noTe CarD/envelope seT in whiTe wove ($70 anD $50 respeCTively, 212.265.4573) Dior DiorifiC vernis in marilyn ($26, Dior.Com)

GivencHy by riccarDo tisci reD leaTher hDg bag ($1,120, barneys.Com)

GiorGio armani lip maesTro in hollywooD anD laque De Chine ($32 eaCh, giorgioarmanibeauTy-usa.Com) tom ForD lip Color in reCkless, Diabolique, anD slanDer ($48 eaCh, saks.Com)

Dior bois D’argenT CanDle ($65, neimanmarCus.Com)

reeD KraKoFF shearling Zip Collar ($1,190, 877.733.3525)

céline sunglasses ($350, 212.535.3703) micHael Kors golD Tone nuggeT Cuff ($250, 866.709.5677)

alexanDer mcQueen

CluTCh in ivory nappa leaTher ($3,195, 212.645.1797)

Gucci marina Chain neCklaCe in 18k yellow golD ($14,350, 212.826.2600)

brunello cucinelli

leaTher anD shearling gloves ($1,095, 212.627.9202)

marc Jacobs collection

lola bag wiTh anTique silver ($1,495, 212.343.1490)

crème De la mer

($150, CremeDelamer.Com)


itchcock eroine

a siren of the silver screen, scarlett johansson has stunned sofia coppola and served as woody allen’s muse. now the famed actress is on a “psychotic” quest—embodying janet leigh for the film hitchcock—and returning to the great white way in cat on a hot tin roof photography and interview jean-paul goude fashion alex aikiu

66


Bra and skirt Dolce & Gabbana sweater and gloves ala誰a earrings and necklace MikiMoto Bag Dior on skin, Dolce & Gabbana foundation in ivory on cheeks, Dolce & Gabbana Blush in rose


“you have GoT To be brave, GeT inTo The shower, and face anThony hopkins as hiTchcock jabbinG you in The face wiTh a 12-inch kiTchen knife.. ” –scarLeTT johansson

Thumbnail sketch by Jean-Paul Goude

relationship, I think, was mostly platonic. Though I don’t think Hitchcock ever crossed the boundaries, physically anyway. Who knows? JPG Have you always been conscious of your sex appeal? SJ I think all little girls are aware of their sex appeal, I think probably more so when they’re pubescent.

I mean I remember being an extremely flirtatious little girl. I liked boys. I think I was also inspired by certain films I watched when I was a girl. I loved Judy Garland and I loved these Rodgers and Hammerstein musicals and I had this idea of romance—the dream girl getting the dream guy—and all that stuff. JPG Have you ever been in a musical? SJ No, I’ve never been in a musical. JPG Well, you should. Aren’t you a singer? SJ I would love to do a musical. I think they’re difficult to pull off nowadays. But they can work. It would be nice to do a new musical. JPG In what way would it be new? SJ I don’t know. I think the idea of people sort of breaking out into song just in the middle of chatting—we’re not capable of accepting that kind of fantasy anymore. Maybe a new musical could be a sort of exceptional visual experiment that doesn’t follow the traditional guidelines of the love story. Maybe it’s something dark or otherworldly. A musical project? Maybe…who knows! JPG Are you on vacation in Paris or have you decided to live here for good? SJ I’m living and vacationing here all at once. Then I go back to New York to start preparation for a play in the fall. But I’m convinced it will be the death of me. So I’m going to spend a couple of months mourning the loss of my existence. JPG Your theatrical existence? SJ No, not even theatrical. It’s just that the last time I found my way onto Broadway it was such a fresh and amazing experience...For this play, it’s going to be hard to live that many weeks in a state of embarrassment and regret and self-loathing and desperation and all the things the character has gone through. To live that eight times a week for two hours each time and then all of a sudden Monday comes around and you find the theater closed—you say to yourself, Oh, what is different about today? Oh, right, I haven’t been in an emotional turmoil for 24 hours. So, I get a break from this, like, pulling at whatever you can to get where you need to go in the moment. I think it’s just not a natural state to be in, to constantly dig up what stirs and disturbs you and air it all out for everyone to see, so to speak. So the preparation for such a project is like you have to have a huge surgery or something and you’re going to be out of commission for six months. It’s a big pill to swallow. A big, wonderful pill. JPG What’s the project? SJ We’re doing Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. I’ll be wearing the very same outfit I wore for the shoot, in a white version. JPG Are you from the South? SJ No. I’ve always loved Louisiana and loved that Cajun culture. I love Tennessee Williams and I think I always felt somehow like I was supposed to live in New Orleans. Maybe I’m nostalgic for a time I never lived through. JPG Ah, I almost forgot. What makes you so goddesslike? SJ What makes me so goddesslike? Posing for you! [laughs] JPG I don’t believe you…but thanks anyway!

Janet Leigh © Bettmann/CORBIS Hitchcock photography Suzanne Tenner, courtesy Fox Searchlight Pictures

JEAN-PAUL GOUDE Did you watch Hitchcock movies when you were growing up? SCARLETT JOHANSSON I did. My mom was a huge movie buff. We had the whole collection. Of course we watched Psycho, but I was always terrified of it. Strangers on a Train, I loved that one. And Vertigo, which I never understood until I got older. We did, we watched a lot of Hitchcock movies. JPG How did you prepare for one of the most iconic scenes in movie history? SJ Hmm, how did I prepare? Well, I just prepared myself to get very, very wet…she says with a glimmer in her eye! We only had the luxury to shoot the scene for a day, and everybody was feeling very nervous because it involved water and nobody wants the actor to get wet. They were concerned with modesty and all these things—but I don’t care about any of that stuff and Janet Leigh never did either. You have got to be brave, get into the shower, and face Anthony Hopkins as Hitchcock jabbing you in the face with a 12-inch kitchen knife, you know— JPG Wow, that sounds dangerous. SJ But that’s what he does! As much as Anthony Hopkins is a pussycat, he’s terrifying. Maybe I watched Silence of the Lambs too many times when I was a kid. Maybe I was having some flashbacks. So I didn’t need too much preparation for the scene. JPG What about Hitchcock’s famously lewd behavior with his actresses. Does the film address that? SJ Oh it does, it goes into the many perversions of Hitchcock. We get to see the mind of Hitchcock. That’s really what the film is about: his struggle at the twilight, or in the autumn, of his career. He had all this success, like North by Northwest, and everybody was looking for him to have another huge hit like that. And he found this pulp novel that kind of allowed him to explore all his perversions. The film is based on many of those. I play Janet Leigh, who we were talking about before, who was married to Tony Curtis with two children. She couldn’t be a victim like some of his other actresses were—like Tippi Hedren and Vera Miles. JPG When you say victim, is that to suggest they never recovered? SJ Well, Tippi Hedren—I actually read an article about her recently and in this interview she said that she never felt that her career recovered after The Birds. And I also think that Vera Miles was in a similar situation after Psycho. Hitchcock would put them on this kind of a contract and they could just never leave. He would keep them on episodes of Alfred Hitchcock Presents. In the case of Psycho he cast Vera Miles as a really dowdy kind of a character when she was really supposed to be his leading lady. And when she decided to get pregnant and have a family, he never called her again. It seems that he held it against her forever. Fortunately my character never fell into that trap. And if Janet always stressed that she had a fabulous relationship with Hitchcock, it’s partly because there was no threat of this sort of situation happening again. They were able to have fun, a sort of flirtatious-platonic relationship. JPG Which one hears was the only kind of relationship he ever had with women. SJ Well, he was married. He was married to Alma, who developed all of his projects with him and was the real power behind a lot of his films. She was very creative herself, but she was also the creature behind the mask. The strong woman behind the brilliant man, that sort of thing. JPG But he never fell in love with another woman or had affairs. He stayed true to his wife. SJ I don’t know whether he ever had any affairs. Some people say he was gay. JPG François Truffaut, who interviewed him at length, suggests that he married at 25 still a virgin... SJ It’s funny because I spoke to Anthony about that and about this idea that he could be gay and I think Anthony definitely took that into consideration when he was developing the character. And of course you see the affection between Hitchcock and Alma. But at that point in time, their


Makeup Christian McCulloCh for DolCe & Gabbana the Makeup hair MarC lopez (artlist) Manicure elsa Durrens (artlist) ProDuction Director Virginie laguens set Design nicolas raMuz Photo assistants PhiliPPe BauMann anD Franck Joyeux stylist assistant Vanessa n’taMack MakeuP assistant aya WatanaBe location stuDio De l’oliVier, Paris

From top: Janet Leigh in the original Psycho (1960); stills from Hitchcock (2012), starring Anthony Hopkins and Scarlett Johansson


jah wears jacket BurBerry prorsum jeans Diesel Bra and sneakers Nike Belt Gucci watch softech cap New era Briefs and jewelry her own

S T U D S

a gentle poetry envelopes tHese FantastIC bodIes—atHletes, artIsts, lovers—wHo are embraCIng sexualIty, blurrIng gender boundarIes, and deFInIng style on tHeIr own terms. Here, tHey don tHe new sprIng menswear pHotograpHy nICk knIgHt FasHIon sImon Foxton 70


beau wears top Y-3

wristbands AmericAn AppArel Jewelry her own


chulo wears Vest Astrid Andersen Jeans J BrAnd Bra nike shorts Hugo Boss Jewelry her own


sirena wears top Prada

shorts Billionaire Boys CluB suspenders ameriCan aPParel Jewelry her own


cookie keedz wears Jeans Guess shorts sunspel Bra AdidAs watch and Jewelry her own


chified wears Top Astrid Andersen panTs PrAdA briefs GAP waTch JAcob & co Jewelry her own


gaza-rae wears Jacket, pants, belt Lanvin earring her own


naechane wears Jacket Y-3 Jewelry and watch his own


teanna wears Jumpsuit Givenchy by RiccaRdo Tisci Jewelry her own

makeup Bea sweet using m.a.C and dermalogiCa skinCare hair lok lau (Clm) talent Jah, Beau, Chulo, sirena, Cookie keedz, Chified, gaza-rae, naeChane, teanna Nail techNiciaN Mike Pocock (StreeterS) Photo aSSiStaNtS laura FalcoNer, chloe oreFice, Matthew Joy Digital caPture JoSePh colley (PaSSeriDae ltD.) Digital PoSt toM waNDrag (ePilogue iMagiNg ltD.) FaShioN aSSiStaNt Sue-weN Quek MakeuP aSSiStaNt StePhaNie McleaN hair StyliSt aSSiStaNt toMoyo Sakai lightiNg Direct


from left: chified wears top Lanvin Bra nike

shorts astrid andersen Underwear Hugo Boss Jewelry her own Jah wears Jeans g-star

Underwear american appareL cap new era Belt, watch, Jewelry her own


living doll internet goddess valeria lukyanova has ignited controversy with her extraordinary look. dripping in the season’s finest jewels, the neospiritual ukrainian beauty reveals her belief that altering reality is the key to life photography sebastian faena fashion carlyne cerf de dudzeele text patrik sandberg

They call her the human Barbie, and her emergence is an online phenomenon that only could have

manifested in 2012. Though Valeria Lukyanova had been posting videos of her almost inhuman beauty since November of last year, it was only when Gawker Media site Jezebel discovered the Ukrainian singer on April 22 that a virtual firestorm erupted, her likeness spreading through inboxes and across Twitter with breakneck velocity. The resulting chatter reached a soprano pitch—and with good reason. Her preferred look is so calculated and seemingly artificial that it borders on CGI. “Has Valeria achieved her Mattel-made look through surgery?” asked the Huffington Post. “Does she even exist?” London’s Daily Mail demanded to know. ABC News launched something of an investigation into the mysterious meme and concluded, “It’s unclear whether Lukyanova exists at all, or whether it’s all a hoax thanks to the world of photo editing.” The truth is that Valeria is very much real, as brought to our attention by a Ukrainian contact who prefers to remain anonymous. The referral came with a strict warning to keep away from the musician and self-professed practitioner of “astral projection” (the practice of out-of-body travel). Our source also claimed that the Security Service of Ukraine is having Lukyanova’s activities monitored. “Be careful,” we were warned. “We’re worried for you, and do not want you to suffer from her.” Of course our interest was piqued. Born in the Moldavian city of Tiraspol, the girl who calls herself “Amatue” (her spiritual name, an Atlantean reference to the goddess of the sun, she says) now resides in Odessa, Ukraine. Though she admits on her site that she is “endowed by nature with extraordinary external data,” her main focus is on her musical and spiritual pursuits. We brought this viral phenom to New York City, entranced by her unnaturally thin waist, dramatic curves, and trendy, new age sense of style, which often includes pastel spaghetti-strap crop tops, navel piercings, and bindis. To say that her beauty routine is peculiar—she exaggerates her dewdrop eyes through makeup tricks and contact lenses—would be an understatement. Since Valeria’s star began to rise, many other such human avatars have sprung up, from San Francisco (home of Dakota Rose, aka Kotakoti) to China (where a new star by the name of Tina Leopard has gone viral). There’s even a local friend of Valeria’s by the name of Anastasiya Shpagina, whose appearance is borderline macabre—she looks like she walked straight off the animated series Sailor Moon. “Indeed, I’ve noticed a trend,” Valeria says of the beauty phenomenon. “Every good-looking woman with fine features and a slim figure looks like a doll. I won’t deny that I play along with people’s perceptions. I’m amused by the reactions. I don’t take it seriously.” V sat down with a translator to ask the self-described “most famous woman of the Russianspeaking Internet” to settle some of the speculation and show us her serious side. What is a typical day in the life of Valeria? VALERIA LUKYANOVA In the morning I work on my face and I get a massage, then I spend some time on the Internet. I meditate and travel in my astral body, and after that I work out at the gym. I go for a walk with my best girlfriend, I get home, and I make dinner for the man I love. Then I spend some more time on the Internet, do some reading and meditating, and go to bed. Do you primarily consider yourself a singer, a model, or an artist? VL These are just different labels for my creative potential, but they don’t describe my true essence. I’m a teacher at the School of Out-of-Body Travel. It’s an international school in which our instructors show students how to leave their physical body and travel in their spiritual body, where you can visit any place on the planet and in the universe. I know that this is the future of mankind and that it has huge potential. Hidden reserves will be tapped soon. 80

Were you always interested in the metaphysical? Did you study it from a young age? VL The questions of what we are and why we exist have interested me from my earliest childhood. Thanks to a large library of esoteric books collected by my mother, I was able to learn a lot. How does your music fit into your “true essence”? VL I have written most of my songs during my astral travels or during meditation. This is also how I collaborate with other composers of new age music. They inspire me. My genre is new age opera. Sometimes I can write a piece in one breath, in as little as five minutes. I very much like singers like Emma Shapplin and Sarah Brightman. I also love bands such as Enigma, Era, Deep Forest, Ametistium, and Alexander Mogilko. How do you feel about your Internet popularity stemming mostly from your physical appearance? VL I believe that because of it I have a responsibility to bring more good, light, and positive emotions to people. I want to share my art and my music and tell people about my spiritual ideas. When you feel happy, you want to tell everyone about it so that others become happier too. Are you surprised by some of the negative reactions you have received? VL No. I know the other side of celebrity is negativity, but I see it in a positive light. If people care about me, then I am on the right path. In real life, I never hear bad things. What inspires your sense of fashion? VL Everything derives from my spiritual practices. My mood is created by meditation and energy techniques. It makes me want to see everything as beautiful and bright, refined and original. I’m an idealist and a perfectionist, and I want my looks to reflect the world within me and how I feel. My close friend Dominika is a fashion designer, and she helps me create the kind of clothing that is consistent with my spiritual practice. Dominika draws the designs we create. What goes into your beauty routine? VL Most of my makeup I design myself as I put it on. I’m an artistic person, and I love dramatic images and bright makeup. I love the process of doing my own. What do you make of all the women popping up online who are getting attention by presenting a look similar to yours? Would you consider this aesthetic some type of beauty movement? VL People don’t understand that it has nothing to do with looks. There are many good-looking young women, but why are they completely unknown? Because looks are just a bonus. If you spend time working only on your appearance and you forget about your inner self, people will not be interested in you because they will not feel anything. Many people think you need only good looks to be successful, but it’s not true—only spiritual work can bear tangible results. Incalculable comments on the Internet accuse you of being artificial in some way, either through computer technology or surgical procedures. Is there any truth to this? VL Many people say bad things about people who want to perfect themselves. It’s hard work, but they dismiss it as something done by surgeons or computer artists. This is how they justify not wanting to strive for self-improvement. It’s how they explain their continued inaction. It’s just an excuse. There are plenty of video clips on the Internet showing what I really look like. Some people even spread rumors about me and retouch my pictures to hurt me. But I don’t take them seriously. I’m even flattered! It’s what success is like. I’m happy I seem unreal to them, it means I’m doing a good job. What would people be surprised to know about the real Valeria? VL I’m a professional mountain climber. I trek up the Himalayas and live far away from civilization for weeks at a time. I have traveled all over, and I love extreme recreation and adrenaline. I’m not afraid of anything, and I love taking risks. I love the unknown. I observe the flow of energy and bring its vibrations into my work. In my view, you can say it with music better than words.


bikini Top Tripp NYC ShorTS TheYkseNs’ TheorY SunglaSSeS BerNhard Willhelm belT miChael kors jewelry CarTier


Scarf (worn aS top) Dior JEanS, bag, watch, JEwElry louis Vuitton


sweater Mango jeans guess shoes Manolo Blahnik watch Rolex jewelry Bottega Veneta


Jacket, shorts, scarf (worn as belt) Ralph lauRen bandanna (worn as bra) patRicia Field Jewelry david YuRman watch Rolex


Shirt Diesel bikini top Patricia FielD pantS steFanel bag and belt Michael Kors SunglaSSeS BernharD WillhelM Jewelry De GrisoGono watch rolex


“I’m happy I seem unreal.. It means I’m doIng a good job.” –valerIa lukyanova

Bikini Diesel Cap ralph lauren ShoeS Giuseppe Zanotti DesiGn Jewelry and watCh Chanel


cap (throughout), top, skirt Diesel Briefs Patricia FielD Belts Michael Kors jewelry Bulgari


jeans Stefanel bracelets (left, top) and ring (right, middle finger) John hardy bracelets (left, bottom), rings (left), watch Van Cleef & arpelS bracelets (right, top) and ring (right, ring finger) harry WinSton bracelets (right, bottom) de BeerS

makeup lena koro for nars cosmetics (tracey mattingly agency) hair greg bitterman for oribe hair care (ray brown pro) Manicure Marisa carMichael Tailor Melissa canella (lars nord sTudio) lighT design chris Bisagni digiTal Technician BenedicT Brink sTylisT assisTanTs kaTe grella and alBan roger Makeup assisTanT Marco casTro hair assisTanT Tiffany daMiani for anThony leonard salon producTion helena MarTel and spencer Morgan Taylor producTion assisTanT alBerTo Maria coloMBo locaTion The sTandard hoTel, high line locaTion equipMenT rooT [eq] Video MarTin landgreVe reTouching Xi chen special Thanks daniela Maerky


Jacket and Jeans DsquareD bikini Patricia FielD belt michael kors Jewelry, watch, bag Dior


PARADIS FOUND

After A chAllenging yeAr, french Actress, musiciAn, And muse VAnessA PArAdis returns to film As A tough-loVe single mom with An imPAssioned heArt. her reAlity—filled with her children, new Projects, And An AdVenturously oPen mind—is not much different PhotogrAPhy cArlos serrAo fAshion simon robbins teXt mArK jAcobs


DRESS Gucci on facE, chanel fluiD founDation in bEigE on lipS, chanel RougE alluRE in gRacilE

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DRESS Calvin Klein ColleCtion on chEEkS, Chanel powDER bluSh in lovE

“I know what I’m doing next, and next is my record. But after that I don’t know,” says Vanessa Paradis. The French actress, musician, and model is enjoying the voyage that began when she was 14 years old with her international pop hit “Joe Le Taxi,” in 1987, and continued apace when, three years later, she won a César (France’s national film award) for Most Promising Actress, in recognition of her performance in the controversial, crossgenerational romance Noce Blanche. She went on to record with Serge Gainsbourg and Lenny Kravitz and to act opposite Alain Delon and Jean-Paul Belmondo. In the past year Paradis publicly ended her 14-year relationship with Johnny Depp, with whom she parents their children, Lily-Rose and Jack. She has also been in New York prepping for her role as an Orthodox Jewish widow in John Turturro’s Fading Gigolo, the first film in twelve years in which Woody Allen acts without also directing. The actress is receiving plaudits for her current project, Café de Flore, a stylized meditation on happiness from writer-director Jean-Marc Vallée, acclaimed for his films C.R.A.Z.Y. and The Young Victoria. She was eager to work with the rising FrenchCanadian auteur, who enjoys a reputation for uniquely charged storytelling. “If you’ve seen the movies of Jean-Marc Vallée, you know that they are very, very powerful,” she says. (Vallée’s next project, The Dallas Buyer’s Club—a true story from the late ’80s about a Texan electrician dying of AIDS who smuggles non-FDA approved HIV medication into the United States—is the reason for the recent, startling gauntness of Matthew McConaughey.) In Café de Flore, Paradis plays Jacqueline, a single mother living in 1969 who is both infinitely generous and hardened by desperation, determined to raise a son with Down syndrome despite her limited means and unwilling to betray any fragility, lest she risk losing him, her greatest love. Jacqueline’s story is intercut with the travails of a privileged nightclub DJ negotiating love and

family in present-day Montreal; the narratives are closely and often metaphysically tethered. Costar Marin Gerrier, the seven-year-old actor with Down syndrome who plays Jacqueline’s son, Laurent, appears in almost all of Paradis’s scenes. He made for an incomparable acting partner, delivering true surprises upon which she built her performance. “He made me a better actor,” she says with adoration. “And the grace, the truth, and the power of this little boy...It just pushed us to be on a higher level. It is a characteristic of Down syndrome to be very demonstrative with tenderness, with kisses and hugs—everything is pretty much like that. It’s totally pure. It’s not damaged with a way of thinking. It’s very, very honest and very generous.” Though she has the heart of a lioness, Paradis was almost denied the part in Café on account of her acute loveliness. “I think he was looking for somebody completely different than me,” she says of Vallée. “I don’t think he was very convinced that I could be the one. But then we had another conversation and I told him everything I thought about the script. I don’t know what made him go for it, but he hired me! I think when he met me at first, I have...I don’t know...this kind of glamorous magazine image, and he was looking for a tough mother with no makeup, no artifice, no seduction. I guess he was wondering if I could do that.” Her physical transformation for the film is both necessary and natural, which speaks to the elegant self-possession that is surely one part French and another part that poetic, vintageinflected Vanessa Paradis thing. But what kind of older woman does she want to become herself? “I wish to grow old naturally, and I hope to be a woman who still has her child’s eyes,” she says. “It doesn’t matter how many wrinkles you have. You still have an interest in life and in people and they can see that light in your face.”

A full-fledged icon, Paradis has deep ties to the house of Chanel that date back to Jean-Paul Goude’s gorgeous, politi-

cally questionable 1991 video for the fragrance Coco, in which she starred as a bird in a gilded cage chirping “Stormy Weather” through bee-stung lips. There have been numerous campaigns since, most recently in 2010, for Rouge Coco lipstick—a lighter, airier, uncaged affair, directed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino—in which Paradis sings “What a Day for a Daydream.” She continues to be a manically photographed front-row fixture at their fashion shows. “I’m in awe of Chanel,” she says. “And the more I know them and the more I work with them, the more I am mesmerized. It’s not only a house of fashion and dreams and glamour, they are artisans. I’m passionate about people who create beautiful things with their imaginations and with their hands.” Taking into account the recent evolution of her personal life, does the risk-taking but selective Paradis intend to be more artistically active? “If I do more than I’m doing right now, I’m going to be fired as a mother,” she says with a laugh. “I do a lot of things. But I don’t see it like, Oh, well, now I’m going to do more things. There are things that you investigate—especially music, because music is my thing. It’s different than being part of a movie when you’re into someone else’s vision, someone else’s project—although I love that also.” Paradis is currently working on her sixth studio album, a collaboration with the celebrated French singer and producer Benjamin Biolay, who produced and cowrote Keren Ann’s first two albums (and was once married to Chiara Mastroianni, the daughter of Catherine Deneuve and Marcello Mastroianni). She promises arrangements influenced by a travelogue of genres spanning African, French, reggae, and Cuban. “I wish to do just as I’m doing now, except with different adventures,” she says. “It’s whatever comes down your road.”


“I wIsh to do just as I’m doIng now, except wIth dIfferent adventures. It’s whatever comes down your road.”–vanessa paradIs

DRESS Bottega Veneta

MakEup SabRina bEDRani foR chanEl (TRacEyMaTTingly.coM) haiR MaRcuS fRanciS (ThE Wall gRoup) Manicure carla Kay (cloutier reMix) Set DeSign BraD ZucKerMan Digital technician DaMon loBle Photo aSSiStantS ron loePP, SiMon McDerMott-JohnSon, aMy Mauth ProDuction KiM JohnSon ProDuction coorDinator raMona roSaleS location SMaShBox StuDioS, l.a. retouching PortuS iMaging anD Violaine BernarD (BaBy Doll StuDio)


Dior Haute Couture

The New ColleCTioN For his hotly anticipated debut, Raf Simons brought an exacting sense of reverence and invention to Dior Haute Couture, seen here in a silk seamless knit cashmere top, silk evening skirt, and crystal necklace. Top, skirT, NeCklaCe Dior Haute Couture

all hail


chanel haute couture

The New ViNTage Leave it to Karl Lagerfeld to pay homage to the past by catapulting forward. Patchwork tweed swing coats and suits, exaggerated palazzo pants, and ornate camellia-adorned dresses present a modernized take on a ’40s silhouette. DReSS CHANEL HAutE CouturE

COUTURE the decadent splendor of the fall season was met with new energy as first-timers debuted sartorial magic and celebrated designers continued their legendary reign. behold the new hauteness photography Karim sadli fashion beat bolliger 95


ATELIER VERSACE

The New Body Donatella Versace is not afraid of a corset, and for her show at the Ritz she emphasized how glamorous this Elizabethan centerpiece can be. Adorned with crystals and patchwork embroidery, the look is completed with a layered skirt made of transparent fabric, achieving a delicate, glasslike effect. dress ATELIER VERSACE


GIVENCHY HautE CouturE bY rICCardo tIsCI

The New workmaNship Riccardo Tisci worked his luxe bohemia theme to a gobsmacking degree with this decadent black velvet dress. The elongated sleeves are embellished with two rows of floor-length leather fringe and adorned with shoulder pads covered in braided leather epaulets. Dress Givenchy haute couture by riccardo tisci


ARMANI PRIVÉ

The WoW FacTor One of his finale dresses, this stunning evening gown was a breath of fresh air among the sea of suits that Giorgio Armani sent down the runway. Hand embroidered with jet-black bugle beads, it took 500 hours to make and emblematizes the designer’s classically beautiful oeuvre. DreSS ARMANI PRIVÉ


GAULTIER pARIs

The New STrucTure Jean Paul Gaultier drew inspiration from the dark romance of 19th-century Paris and women’s foundational if sexually freighted pieces. This black Lurex fishnet gown with a jet stone beaded cage corset reflects the strict but sensual sentiment of the era. corSeT AND gowN GAULTIER pARIs


VALENTINO hAuTE cOuTurE

The eTernal ClassiCisTs Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli call this ash-silk chiffon gown “Le Vent de la Nuit” (Night Wind) for its darkly decadent appeal. Dress VALENTINO hAuTE cOuTurE


IRIS VAN HERPEN HAutE coutuRE

The New Kid oN The BlocK Twenty-eight-year-old Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen’s breakout “Hybrid Holism” collection is inspired by the architecture of nature and the work of Philip Beesley— brought to life in this technically profound dress comprising leather-braided silver chains in a fantastic aubergine hue. dReSS IRIS VAN HERPEN HAutE coutuRE

MaKeup YadiM foR dioR BeauTY (calliSTe) haiR daMieN BoiSSiNoT (Jed RooT iNc.) Model aYMeliNe Valade (woMeN) Manicure elsa Durrens (artlist, Paris) Digital technician eDouarD Malfettes (Digitart, Paris) Photo assistants antoni ciufo, sascha heintze, laurent chouarD stylist assistants nicolas Kuttler anD linDsey hornyaK MaKeuP assistant anna grzeszczicK hair assistant yoshiKo haruKi ProDuction Michael lacoMblez (ProDn) ProDuction assistants Kevin Macarthy anD guillauMe garnier retouching iMag’in, Paris


GIRLS O F NOW WITH HEAD-TURNING STYLE, SHOWSTOPPING SkILLS, AND ADmIRAbLE DISREGARD FOR THE STATUS QUO—NOT TO mENTION mAJOR mOmENTS IN THE PAGES OF V—THESE NINE ARTISTS ARE REPRESENTING A RISING GENERATION OF TALENT. RING IN THE NEW YEAR WITH THE NEW GUARD, IN PRImE LOOkS FROm RESORT 2013 PHOTOGRAPHY SHARIF HAmzA FASHION TOm VAN DORPE 102


AzeAliA BAnks What was your biggest moment of 2012? Releasing my mixtape, Fantasea. I had struggled in the past to create full bodies of work, and that was my first official one, so I’m proud of that! Who is your favorite It Girl of all time? Beyoncé. Who is the next It Girl on your radar? Me, of course.

How would you like to see the world change in the new year? Weed should really be legal.

Broke With expensive taste is availaBle in FeBruary From interscope Jacket Donna Karan CoLLECTIon top aLExanDEr Wang BrieFs norma KamaLI hat DIor


GRIMES What was your biggest moment of 2012? The entire Full Flex Express, a cross-Canada train tour that Skrillex organized. It really changed my views on a lot of things. Also, he’s one of my alltime favorite artists…I actually cried when I found out I was going on the tour! How do you feel about the term It Girl? I’m down with it. It makes me think of the movie Clueless, so I guess it’s a good thing. Who is your favorite It Girl of all time? Murasaki Shikibu, a Japanese lady-in-waiting who is considered to have written the first novel in the 11th century. The fact that the first novel ever written was by a woman in an extremely oppressive cultural climate is not only very impressive but also totally underappreciated. What are your goals for 2013? I want to find a way to banish water bottles from festivals. Sometimes when a show is over you can’t even see the ground, it’s so covered in garbage. It’s depressing.

CLOTHING Valentino JEWELRY M.c.l. ON LIps, estée lauder vIvId sHINE LIpsTICk IN pINk RIOT ON CHEEks, estée lauder puRE COLOR bLusH IN ELECTRIC pINk


SKY FERREIRA What was your biggest moment of 2012? Playing live for the first time in L.A. with my band and having the venue completely packed with people who were really into it. Who is your favorite It Girl of all time? Joan of Arc. Who is the next It Girl on your radar? Kiernan Shipka. I know everyone loves Sally Draper already, but I adore her. I want to be her—in the least creepy way possible. She’s only 12 and she’s already way cooler than the rest of us. What is your style philosophy for 2013? I’ve officially stopped wearing things I don’t feel comfortable in.

Ghost is out now and i’m not alriGht is available in january from emi/Capitol reCords top Dior veil Jennifer ouellette rinG (rinG finGer) Deborah Pagani rinG (middle finGer) M.C.l. on faCe, estée lauDer powder makeup in ivory nude on brows, estée lauDer brow penCil in dark brown


cassie What was your biggest moment of 2012? Putting out my singles! How would you like to see the world change in the coming year? Road rage has got to stop! I’m working on my personal road rage one day at a time. Who is your favorite It Girl of all time? Bianca Jagger. She is a style icon, but also a human-rights advocate. The best of both worlds.

Cassie’s album is available in early 2013 from bad boy/intersCope dress Versace braCelets cartier her own


LIZA THORN What was your biggest moment of 2012? Finishing Starred’s debut EP, Prison to Prison, and moving to NYC. I feel like I’m finally making it. What is your style philosophy for 2013? White bleach everything. A lot of sex is good for the skin. Any New Year’s resolutions? Wear SPF 100 every day. Meditate, cast spells, and write songs. I want to tour the world, find the best fur coat, make music that touches people’s hearts, become more patient, and love into infinity.

Prison to Prison is out now from Pendu sound tHorn weArs dress Michael Kors BrA house of etiquette tigHts falKe eArrings DaviD Webb BAndmAte mAttHew KosHAK weArs CLotHing coMMe Des GarÇons


Charli XCX What was your biggest moment of 2012? Opening for Coldplay in the U.S. and Europe was

incredible! One time I actually played to a crowd of 65,000 people. I completely lost myself. I felt

like a superstar. What is It right now? The Bulgarian rapper Dena. She’s so badass and her style is the best. And Buffalo shoes are It for me. I simply couldn’t live without them. How would you like to see the world change? This probably sounds cheesy but I would just like to see everyone love more. I made a rule for myself a while ago that I’d only work with nice people. I know that sounds kind of obvious and stupid, but those people are hard to find. So far I’ve been really lucky. Life is too short to waste time on being bitchy and shit. We don’t have that long. What is your style philosophy for 2013? Be freaky. Be weird. Be punk. Be you.

Charli XCX’s debut album is available in early 2013 from iamsound JaCket Tom Ford hat Borsalino earrings (her left) mania mania earring (her right) Camilla James


PORCELAiN BLACK What was your biggest moment of 2012? Working with Jack Black and Hype Williams, and

starring alongside Tom Cruise and Russell Brand

in Rock of Ages. Also re-producing my record and making a swag mixtape, swagging out with YMCMB! Who is your favorite It Girl of all time? Joan Rivers. That bitch keeps it real as fuck and is straight hilarious. She should probably just adopt me so we can dress up together in all of our crazy furs. How would you like to see the world change in the coming year? I’m praying for mayhem, praying for a tidal wave. I want to see the ground give way. I want to watch it all go down. What is It right now? A soy vanilla latte, a pack of Camel Crushes, and my Alexander McQueen shoes. But that’s it!

Porcelain Black’s deBut alBum is availaBle in sPring 2013 from 2101/universal rePuBlic dress Dolce & Gabbana veil and neckPiece leah c. couture Millinery JeWelrY Graff on face, estée lauDer PoWder makeuP in ecru on liPs, estée lauDer vivid shine liPstick in forBidden aPPle


Venus x What was your biggest moment of 2012? The whole thing. I opened for Juicy J, Erykah Badu,

and Peaches all in the last two months. I can’t believe I was allowed to do that! It sounds so twisted. Who is your favorite It Girl of all time? My favorite is Haifa Wehbe. I wish she would notice me! She has the Middle East on lock, Rihannastatus right now. I want to work with her someday. Who is the next It Girl on your radar? Ian Isiah. He’s not a girl, but he’s fish. What is your style philosophy for 2013? From now on I’m getting a uniform. I miss my Catholic school uniform, so for the next year I’m going to have five basic outfits that I wear, because I need to focus on other things. But always blackand-white. Goth 2 the end. Any New Year’s resolutions? To always be a bad bitch and help other bad bitches get money.

SunglaSSeS Dior TurTleneck Chanel JeWelrY Cartier on lipS, estée lauDer pure color lipSTick in gunmeTal


Makeup (Venus, sky, Cassie, Charli) roMy soleiMani for beauty.CoM (ManageMent + artists) hair (Venus, sky, Cassie, Charli) rudi lewis (ManageMent + artists) ManiCure (Venus, sky, Cassie, Charli, trixie, porCelain, liza, griMes) gina edwards using Chanel (kate ryan inC.) Makeup (trixie, porCelain, liza, griMes, azealia) asaMi taguChi (l’atelier nyC) hair (trixie, porCelain, liza, griMes, azealia) Mark haMpton (Julian watson agenCy) ManiCure (azealia) Marisa CarMiChael digital teChniCian Julia CoMita (blank digital) photo assistants Matthew hawkes, Myles blankenship, Corey Jenkins stylist assistants Carrie weidner and pablo MarCus bien retouChing blank [post] loCations fast ashleys brooklyn and root [driVe-in]

TRIXIE WHITLEY What was your biggest moment of 2012? Finally finishing my first full-length record, which has become the record of my dreams! Who is the next It Girl on your radar? Chelsea Wolfe. How would you like to see the world change? If all around human ignorance could change, even just a little, that would be huge. Any New Year’s resolutions? Live louder, dance and laugh more, go deeper into the depths of curiosity, and become a more focused and loving soul.

Fourth Corner is available in january From strong blood reCords jaCket, shirt, skirt Stella McCartney tights Falke shoes Gianvito roSSi earring Whitley’s oWn


best of 2012!

v-buy

V80 WInter 2012/13

From Fashion inFants to artistic Feats, some oF v’s Favorite personalities nominate their best Fashion and pop culture moments oF 2012. brace yourselF For the year ahead by reminiscing about the year that was... who in the world doesn’t love a new baby?

MarIacarla boscono’s daughter, MarIalucas –rIccardo tIscI

julIa restoIn roItfeld’s daughter, roMy –VladIMIr restoIn roItfeld

retrospective

coolest cat

new breakout star

chouPette –laetItIa casta

new artist trust –leIgh lezark

documentary

aI WeIWeI: neVer sorry –lady aManda harlech

ezra MIller –kIM kardashIan

runway to real way adaptation

carlyne cerf de dudzeele In coMMe des garÇons –orIbe

song

“let’s haVe a kIkI” by scIssor sIsters –dj MIa MorettI

V is a registered trademark of V Magazine LLC. Copyright © 2012 V Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Printed in U.S.A. V (BIPAD 96492) is published bimonthly by V Magazine LLC. Principal office: 11 Mercer Street, New York, NY 10013. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Speedimpex 35-02 48 th Avenue, Long Island City, NY 11101. For subscriptions, address changes, and adjustments, please contact Speedimpex 35-02 48 th Avenue, Long Island City, NY 11101, Tel. 800.969.1258, e-mail: subscriptions@speedimpex.com. For back issues contact V Magazine, 11 Mercer Street, New York, NY 10013, Tel. 212.274.8959. For press inquiries please contact Anuschka Senge at Syndicate Media Group Tel. 212.226.1717

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Clockwise from top: Mariacarla Boscono Julia Restoin Roitfeld Bruce Weber/courtesy CR Fashion Book Ted Alcorn courtesy Collier Schorr Kevin Tachman Martin Brûlé-Brosseau courtesy Norman Wong courtesy Karl Lagerfeld courtesy Dallas Contemporary

Inez & VInoodh’s “Pretty Much eVerythIng” exhIbItIon at the dallas conteMPorary –nIcola forMIchettI

cr fashIon book –sky ferreIra

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