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CONTENTS

48 HEROES

70 STAR POWER BY INEZ & VINOODH

108 FEMMES FATALES BY JEFF BARK

Contributing editor James Franco and Marina Abramović discuss her new memoir, Tippi Hedren dishes on Hitchcock, and Johnny Marr reflects on his career with the Smiths

Profiling the brightest stars who made 2016 and are sure to leave their mark in the year to come Styled by Jay Massacret

Eight women who killed it this past year channel moody vibes in our homage to film noir Styled by Beat Bolliger

80 BRITANNIA RULES BY MARIO TESTINO

116 2016: THE YEAR THAT WAS

Dispatches from across the globe, including Dior, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton's Resort and couture shows

Fall fashion gets the glam punk treatment for a story that's tip-top and all that Styled by Paul Cavaco

The nominations for the best of 2016 from the contributors who made V shine this year

56 V NEWS

84 THIS IS COUTURE BY NICK KNIGHT

From Jeffrey Deitch's tips for Art Basel Miami to a first look at Stella McCartney's menswear line, V's got you covered

Couture is shown in a new light while Derek Blasberg explores fashion's scandalous history Styled by Jacob K

62 NOW TRENDING

100 LUXURY RESORT BY MAX FARAGO

Eye-catching leopard prints, not-so-sublte camo, and a flair for the monochromatic are standout looks for the season

From the streets of Paris, the season's best Resort looks are given a decidedly edgy twist Styled by Tom Guinness

52 AROUND THE WORLD WITH V

118 ELEPHANTS: NEVER FORGET

42 VMAGAZINE.COM

Join supermodels in their effort to save these gentle giants from extinction

ALICIA KEYS WEARS JACKET GIORGIO ARMANI EARRINGS CARTIER PHOTOGRAPHY INEZ & VINOODH FASHION JAY MASSACRET


Fe n d i Bouti ques 646 520 2830 Fe n d i.com


editor's letter

There’s a clever truth to the old axiom that in order to know where you're going, you have to understand where you’ve been. Implied is the acknowledgement of our debt to history, but also that with such awareness, there follows a vision for the future. We at V have always championed those individuals whose creativity has helped pave the way for the generations that follow them. Just as importantly, we strive to celebrate the new guard of artists and visionaries who build upon the past in order to boldly shape things to come. In the case of our cover story, photographed by Inez & Vinoodh and styled by Jay Massacret, V honors the individuals who shook things up in 2016, from Alicia Keys, whose decision to go makeup-free spawned a vocal cultural movement, to Young Thug and his transformation as a musician who embraces a gender fluid appreciation of fashion. We also nominate those who will define the shifting cultural landscape of 2017, like Kelly Rohrbach and the girls of Star. Indeed, another of our cover stars, the wildly innovative musician Grimes, notes that we are living in a 44 VMAGAzINE.COM

vibrant age defined as much by political activism as it is by artistic exploration. Tied to the everlasting ebb and flow of the seasons while tapping into the zeitgeist of the day, fashion is forever drawing inspiration from the past while heralding the future. With its references to the grandeur of Tudor England and its penchant for ruffles and jacquard, Christopher Bailey discusses the inspirations behind his Fall/Winter collection for Burberry, while photographer Mario Testino and stylist Paul Cavaco give it the royal treatment. Some things are decidedly of the moment but forever timeless, as is the case with our couture story, shot by Nick Knight and styled by Jacob K. Showcasing the techniques and traditions of fashion’s most exquisite art, the duo conjure a modern take on haute couture that is nothing less than extraordinaire. Speaking of eye-raising, our editor-atlarge, Derek Blasberg, talks with Musée des Arts Décoratifs curator Denis Bruna and explores four centuries of fashion scandals. Photographer Jeff Bark and stylist Beat Bolliger take their cues from film noir’s legacy of seductive beauties,

casting eight of today’s hottest stars—musician Janelle Monáe, actress Gillian Jacobs, and model Ruth Bell, among others. Meanwhile, Max Farago and Tom Guinness give Resort an avant-garde twist. This, of course, wouldn’t be a year-end issue without reflecting upon the people, trends, and events that made it big in 2016. We’ve rounded up the year’s best in fashion, music, and art while also, importantly, surveying the horizon for the next big thing. Here at V, we've learned that to be a part of history, you have to make it. MR. V

GRIMES WEARS DRESS AND GLOVES GUCCI CHOKER VINTAGE PHOTOGRAPHY INEz & VINOODH FASHION JAY MASSACRET ON LIPS lanCÔMe lIP lOVeR IN ROSE MONCEAu ON NAILS lanCÔMe NOIR CAVIAR


now on vmagazine.com the live sessions Watch private sessions with up-and-coming musicians like Nashville duo Myzica, who step in front of the camera to perform their rendition of “Drive” by the Cars.

Myzica Photographed by Brian Lynch at Pier59 Studio

the conveRsations the v jukebox Hear exclusive playlists featuring the artists in this issue, as well as the biggest names in music to know now. follow @VMAGAZINE

46 VMAGAZINE.coM

The V Jukebox clockwise, from top left: Alicia Keys Courtesy RCA Records; MUNA Courtesy RCA Records; Grimes Courtesy 4AD; Myzica Courtesy Peptalk Records; Young Thug Courtesy 380 Entertainment; Betsy Courtesy Columbia Records

Get to know V’s contributors, like Nick Knight and Amanda Harlech, who talk about their many inspirations and Knight’s first solo photographic exhibition in South Korea.


heroes MArINA INA ABrAMoVIĆ ABABr rAMAMooVIĆ For the release of her memoir, Walk Through Walls, the legendary artist speaks with James Franco about her early days and why you should keep your friends and enemies close. life. I have lots of memories from age four until now. It’s like a snake shedding its skin—now I can really look into the new life of everything that’s left from 70 on. And I hope it goes to 100! I also want to be inspirational, because I have a really crazy and complicated life. I come from ex-Yugoslavia, which wasn’t even First World; it’s like Fifth World. And coming from these obstacles, criticism, and everything else against me, I overcame all of that. So [the book] could be inspirational for anybody else who has something to do in their life, but nobody trusts them, and only they believe in themselves. The title, Walk Through Walls, is really important. It’s about constantly hammering through walls and going through the next wall, having this kind of warrior relationship with life and art. JF You dedicated the book to both friends and enemies. Can you tell me about that? ma [Sometimes] the people who have been your friends become jealous and become enemies. And sometimes enemies who didn’t think you were any good become friends, because they start understanding the struggle. So I dedicated the book to both groups. JF Is that sort of like what you’re talking about when you say you’re looking back at your life at 70? Reassessing or coming to terms with all the kinds of relationships you’ve had? 48 VmagazIne.com

photography Inez & VInoodh Walk through Walls: a memoIr Is aVaIlable noW from croWn archetype

Hair and makeup Jenny Kanavaros Lighting director Jodokus Driessen Digital technician Brian Anderson Photo assistant Joe Hume Studio manager Marc Kroop Production VLM Productions Retouching StereoHorse

James Franco Why did you decide to do a memoir? marIna aBramoVI [Turning] 70 is a big date in somebody’s

ma It’s really important to be honest and to tell things as they are, without sentimentality and without taking a side. It takes lots of time to have this kind of view. We are living in such a politically correct state where [it feels] like you don’t have freedom to say things. It was very important for me to have my freedom to say things, at least about my own life. If I want to have fun with myself, I can do that. If I want to have fun with the country I’ve been living in for so long, I have a right to do that. I’ve talked about my three abortions before, and it went crazy viral that I’m killing children and that I’m so dark. But I didn’t want to have a family. I think that having one energy in my life is what I’m doing, and if I had had children, it would be divided. JF Reading the book, I thought, Oh yeah, this is what it’s like to know Marina, these are her very personal stories. ma My life and my work are so inside each other. I always like to show all aspects of me without hiding anything. There are some things I’m ashamed of, but I’m showing them anyway. JF I’m asking this for younger performance artists out there: How did you support yourself as an artist when you were first starting out? ma I taught for five years in academies all around the world, and I was doing workshops and lectures. That was my main income. That’s it, nothing else. Even when I was 29, I was still an assistant in the academy I was teaching at. Ulay [Abramović’s former partner and collaborator] and I lived in a car for five years. We had no telephone, no expenses, no electricity, and we would milk cows, goats, and sheep. I was knitting pullovers, farmers would give us sausage and cheese and bread in exchange for work, things like that. It was an incredibly romantic and an incredibly happy life, without any compromises for any kind of market. Only in the last 15 years have I been able to pay my bills. I knew every communal shower in Europe! JF After “The Artist Is Present” show at MoMA you became so much more well-known. How did that affect your work and your life? ma If this kind of success came when I was young, I would have been destroyed. I would have started thinking, Oh my God, how important I am! But it came so late in my life and I saw how this kind of success destroys so many, so it didn’t happen to me. I took it with lots of amusement. Also, being so much in the press now, I have a platform that I can use to introduce really good performance artists to people who listen to me. But the side effects of success are not what success is about. The most important thing is that you do uncompromising work as much as you can. JF It seems to me that the book is almost like an art piece, in the same way the show “The Life of Marina Abramović” is. ma It’s really true. It’s very much like a cleaning process. The way that I want to die—this is my biggest wish—is to die not angry, consciously, and without fear.


hero

TIPPI HEDREN

50 VMaGaZINE.cOM

But the single mother needed work, and anyway, quitting her job would have meant a lawsuit. “I was just a lucky little blonde model [Hitchcock had] rescued from relative obscurity,” she writes in Tippi. “Which one of us was more valuable to the studio, him or me?” Hedren valiantly went public about the director’s harassment in The Dark Side of Genius: The Life of Alfred Hitchcock, by Hitchcock scholar Donald Spoto. “He’s the only one I gave it to because I knew he would handle it with dignity,” Hedren told me. The book was published in 1983—three years after Hitchcock’s death and almost a decade before Anita Hill brought the term “sexual harassment” into common use. In Tippi, Hedren emphasizes that it’s not lost on her that Hitchcock—“a man I look back on with admiration, gratitude, and utter disgust”—taught her everything she knows about acting. Since the 1980s, she’s been appearing semi-regularly in film and television roles, but her real life’s work is protecting the lions she lives among at her Shambala Preserve outside Los Angeles. (She first fell in love with the big cats in the early 1970s, while filming two movies in Africa.) You believe Hedren when she says, as she frequently does, that while Alfred Hitchcock ruined her career, he didn’t ruin her life. Of course, one can be happy for Hedren but still mad at Hitchcock for, like Marnie, having had no respect for the boundary between what is and isn’t ours.

Nell Beram TIPPI: a MEMOIR IS aVaILaBLE NOW FROM haRPERcOLLINS

Tippi Hedren in The Birds, 1963 Universal Pictures ©AF Archive/Alamy

In her candid memoir, the Hitchcock ingénue reveals the offscreen terror she suffered at the hands of film’s master thriller and how it was anything but her final act.

When does the statement “I’m gonna make you a star” ever end well? If you’re the actress Tippi Hedren, the answer is, “Eventually.” As anyone who has seen HBO’s 2012 biopic The Girl knows, Hedren, who gave two lauded performances for Alfred Hitchcock—in 1963’s The Birds and 1964’s Marnie— was the object of the legendary director’s obsession and was ultimately punished for rebuffing his sexual advances: he refused to release her from her exclusive contract. This meant that the red-hot actress got a paycheck but couldn’t accept acting jobs for nearly two years after she told Hitchcock that she was through working with him. In her new memoir, Tippi, Hedren lists several high-profile film roles that the director turned down for her. Hitchcock’s act of vengeance sabotaged the career of an actress about whom The New Yorker’s Richard Brody wrote in August, “Hedren’s performance [in Marnie] is one of the greatest in the history of cinema.” Hedren welcomed the summons she got from Hitchcock’s people in 1961, after the director saw her in a television commercial for a diet drink: her modeling work had started to dwindle after she made the ill-advised decision to turn 30. Her natural screen presence was enhanced by her distinctive flute-like voice—perfect for affecting sweetness that masked sublimated emotions. In other words, Hedren was a born Hitchcock blonde. It was while she was playing the sympathetic kleptomaniac Marnie that Hitchcock’s harassment crescendoed. His behavior was, “such a disappointment to me because I respected the man so much,” Hedren recently told me.


johnnyymarr In his new memoir, Set the Boy Free, the guitarist and cofounder of the Smiths reveals the stories behind some of his most iconic songs.

© Andrew Catlin

For ’80s teens in need of an outlet for their roiling emotions—all those spikes of joy and deep plummets into depression—the arrival of the Smiths felt like a godsend. And based on Johnny Marr’s new autobiography, Set the Boy Free, it’s easy to imagine it was a preordained one: he was barely five years old when he got his first guitar. “I had it with me wherever I went, carrying it around the way other kids carried their toy fire engine and dolls,” he writes. He taught himself to play, and right around the time puberty hit, glam rock tore onto the scene, with T. Rex being a particularly huge influence. After dropping out of school and deciding to form a band, a mutual friend scribbled the address of a guy named Steven Morrissey on a scrap of paper. “He gave it to me, and when I looked down at it I knew it was part of my life story,” Marr recalls. His sense of destiny unfolding continued after arriving unannounced at Morrissey’s house to introduce himself and feeling “an immediate understanding and empathy between us.” At their second meeting, Marr sat on the floor with Morrissey’s lyrics in front of him and began to strum. “Something was happening; the song was coming through the ether,” he describes. “I kept going with the verse and Morrissey started singing along, the words and story appearing in my eyes and my mind…a song that didn’t sound like anyone else and didn’t feel like anyone else.” Similar tales of how many of their hits came into being are easily the highlights of Marr’s book. For this hardcore Smiths fan, who remembers exactly where he was when he first heard “Hand in Glove,” reading about its inception

was particularly thrilling. When the chords first came to Marr, he didn’t have anything to record on. Terrified that he’d forget the music, his girlfriend (now wife of 31 years) drove Marr straight to Morrissey’s house, where he serenaded the singer on the front doorstep while Morrissey scrambled for a tape recorder. After a handful of small shows in 1983, Marr shoved a tape of “Hand in Glove” into the arms of an executive at Rough Trade, who agreed to release the song as a single. It gained radio traction, and thanks to Marr’s exuberant guitar and Morrissey’s often-despondent lyrics, the band rapidly gained a devoted audience full of people who understand the joys of misery. “The records seem to be happy and sad at the same time,” Marr tells me. “Which I guess is a really big part of the human condition.” Four years and four seminal albums later, the band called it quits and Marr went on to live every guitarist’s dream by playing with some of the most important bands in modern history—Talking Heads, the Pretenders, and the The, to name a few. He also formed Electronic with Bernard Sumner from New Order, joined Modest Mouse, designed a signature guitar for Fender, and continues to tour and record new music today. “I’ve always been aware of how special and elusive that process is,” he says of writing about the origins of his songs. “It’s as wondrous to me as hopefully it is to everybody else.” Nothing to worry about there. JOSHUA LYON

Set tHe bOY free: tHe AUtObIOGrAPHY IS AVAILAbLe NOW frOM DeY Street bOOkS


FASHION NEWS

AROUND THE WORLD You don’t need a far-flung vacation to visit the most iconic locales around the globe: Dior, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton take you there.

DIOR’S BRITISH INVASION Over the past few years, Resort collections have increasingly become an opportunity for luxury houses to take less hyped mid-season shows and turn them into immersive, sensorial experiences. Take Dior’s atypical location choice: Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire, England. It seemed a curious decision (Dior is très française, after all), but it turns out the house has a long history with the manor. Monsieur Dior presented his 1954 couture collection there and his protégé Yves Saint Laurent followed suit in November 1958. Once attendees arrived via the Dior Express (a train with coach cars from the 1920s, complete with male models dressed as porters), Dior’s interim creative leaders, the Swiss duo Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, delivered well-researched and thoughtful pieces with twists on Dior classics. Fantastically tailored Bar jackets, usually cinched at the waist, boasted a longer silhouette and patterned scarves were tied to models wrists, fluttering as they walked. While many of the lighter dresses contrasted with the richness of the show space—Blenheim’s Georgian gilded library—a few tweed coats and afternoon teatime prints celebrated the overall Britishness of the experience. michael gleeson

photography schohaja 52 VMAGAZINE.coM


LOUIS VUITTON’S RIO GRAND Rio de Janeiro wasn’t exactly getting the best global press last spring as the city struggled to prepare for the 2016 Summer Olympics, but Nicolas Ghesquière provided a welcome distraction by jetting an array of celebrities and journalists to the city’s futuristic, cylindrical Niterói Contemporary Art Museum to show a Louis Vuitton collection that paid tribute to Carioca culture. Models wove their way down the Oscar Niemeyer-designed structure’s dramatically curved entrance in vibrant color-blocked dresses, cutaway skirts, and graphic windbreakers. The designer also included the occasional literal shout-out to Rio’s world culture contributions, like a lilac sleeveless dress with black embroidered images of Pelé—the Santos FC forward who revolutionized soccer—in all his mid-kick glory. Ghesquière’s signature French touches were present with slim, kick flare black pants and the cropped jackets often seen on his usual set of cool girls. (Attendees this season included Alicia Vikander, Zendaya, and Catherine Deneuve.) And of course, there were bags: the traditional LV monogram was updated in a wild, highlighter yellow and accented with sweeping leather fringe. Colorful as Carnival with a sport-influenced spirit, the show served as harbinger for the glory and gold medals to come. PRIYA RAO

cOuRtesY LOuIs vuIttOn


fashion news

FENDI’s RomaN HolIDay It’s easy to imagine nymphs skirting across the rippling surface of Rome’s ornate Trevi Fountain, but leave it to Karl Lagerfeld to make that vision a reality. The fashion maestro chose the Baroque landmark—fresh off a $2.4 million renovation—as the setting for Fendi’s 90th couture celebration, with a clear plexiglass runway built just above the surface of the water for models to glide on. “It was challenging to stage a fashion show at a monument like the Trevi,” reveals Fendi’s indefatigable Chairman and CEO, Pietro Beccari. “We got the final go-ahead at 1:00 pm the afternoon before the show! Our motto is Nothing is impossible.” The clothing evoked an ethereal quality, with hand-cut mink flowers accenting a lace dress, a lynx coat washed in pink complete with fur cuffs, and ankle booties threaded with delicate ribbon. Current Lagerfeld muses Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid opened and closed the show, respectively, in soft, swept-up curls and glittering makeup. Historically, the designer has made a point of saying that he doesn’t like to look back— and really why would the most forward-thinking creative need to—but with the collection’s references to the Norwegian fairy tale East of the Sun and West of the Moon and the Trevi’s rich La Dolce Vita past, it was a welcome reminder that some of the best fashions never truly go out of style. PR

PHOTOGRAPHy BENOîT PEVERELLI VMAGAZINE.coM 5 5


vtnews creativetlicense It’s taken a while for Julian Rosefeldt’s visionary 13-channel video installation, Manifesto, starring Academy Award– winner Cate Blanchett, to make its way to the States—10 months, to be exact. After premiering at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image in Melbourne last winter, the film finally makes its long-awaited North American debut this December at New York City’s Park Avenue Armory. The work, which reinterprets famous art manifestos from the likes of Tristan Tzara, Claes Oldenburg, and Jim Jarmusch in an edited and collaged fashion, features Blanchett in 12 different roles—from a funeral orator and a newscaster to a homeless man—each reciting lines from the famous texts. “As you can imagine, Cate is

breathtaking,” says Rosefeldt. “She gave more than I could have ever dreamed.” While many of these missives were written in the 20th century, Blanchett obviously makes the pieces “fresh and discoverable,” says the auteur. “You read these works and you realize that these men are indicative of being able to speak loudly if you have something to say. Given the election and all the nonsense populist stupidity going on, it really is time for all of us to yell. Hopefully New Yorkers and Americans, who are in such a rush, slow down and take notice.” PRiya Rao

Manifesto runs DeceMber 7, 2016 through January 8, 2017 at the Park avenue arMory in new york city

skittrip Leave it to Canadian fashion designers Dean and Dan Caten to pay homage to their roots this winter with their forthcoming Dsquared2 ski collection. “We wanted to fuse our aesthetic with the sport we love,” says Dan. Consider this our new go-to gear on the slopes this December. PR

SwEatER ($1,290) PantS ($795) accESSoRiES (PRicE UPon REqUESt) FoR moRE inFoRmation viSit dSqUaREd2.com

“We really don’t know anyone who hobbles around in skyhigh heels anymore,” says Jack McCollough, one half (with Lazaro Hernandez) of New York design duo Proenza Schouler. “Nothing feels more now to us than a sneaker. Comfort and ease are everything these days, so it just makes sense.” Perhaps it’s fashion’s continuing preoccupation with athleisure, but the street style set agree—nothing looks fresher with a turtleneck dress or a smart blazer and pair of wide leg trousers than a minimalist sneaker. Fittingly, the twosome has finally introduced their own sporty offering washed in three colorways: all white, black and white, and red and white. “We wanted to strip it down to the basics, including getting rid of the laces and adding a couple of elastics to hold it all together,” explains Hernandez. “It’s super anonymous in a good way, almost DIY, and looks really good when beat up.” PR

PRoEnza ScHoULER sneakers ($550, ProenZaschouLer.coM)

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hatttrick For Stephen Jones, the celebrated London-based milliner, the path to becoming one of today’s most eminent artisans of all things brimmed was a circuitous one. “I just fell into it by chance,” he notes. “I was an intern at a couture house and next to me was the millinery—I loved the people more than the actual millinery itself.” Since then, Jones has gone on to create some of fashion’s most remarkable headwear, collaborating with the likes of John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood, all documented in the richly illustrated Stephen Jones: Souvenirs, a visual survey Jones refers to as “the flotsam and jetsam of my life.” When pressed as to millinery’s enduring appeal, Jones quips, “Fashion is very much seasonal, hats are very much time and place.” JoSEPH aKEL

stePhen Jones: souvenirs ($135, riZZoLi)

This page, clockwise from top right: Courtesy Dsquared2; Courtesy Tim Walker and Rizzoli ©Tim Walker; Therese Aldgard; Courtesy Julian Rosfeldt and The Park Avenue Armory ©Julian Rosfeldt

steppinGtOUt


damien hirst, gone but not forgotten, 2014 at the faena hotel

miami heat

Damien Hirst, Gone But Not Forgotten, 2014, variable dimensions, Courtesy Damien Hirst and Faena Hotel ©Damien Hirst and Science Ltd

Known for his faultless taste, art dealer and curator Jeffrey Deitch reveals the galleries, hotels, and hotspots he’ll be frequenting in the Magic City during Art Basel this December.

MiaMi Beach The beach itself is still the best part of Miami Beach. I start every day there with a run on the sand.

miamiandbeaches.com

LincoLn Road MaLL Designed by the great architect Morris Lapidus in 1960, Lincoln Road Mall is brilliant, radical, and still inspiring with its futuristic vision. When there, visit Books & Books for its very well-edited selection of new releases.

lincolnroadmall.com

Faena hoteL A remarkable fantasy realized by Alan Faena and Ximena Caminos, the Faena Hotel has the aesthetics of tango, which are fused with 1930s Hollywood and vintage Miami Beach. You’re part of their sensuous fantasy world when you step inside. faena.com

RuBeLL FaMiLy coLLection, MaRguLies coLLection, de La cRuz coLLection These remarkable private collections, each open to the public, are among the most exciting places in the world to see great works of contemporary art and have introduced a new model of how to share art with the public. Every year I discover new talent there.

rfc.museum, margulieswarehouse.com, delacruzcollection.org

deLano south Beach hoteL Philippe Starck’s beautiful renovation of the Art Moderne classic still looks fresh. My cousins owned the hotel prior to its renovation and I have great memories of my visits in the 1970s—the big event in those days was not Art Basel, but the spectacular Passover seders celebrated in the enormous lobby.

morganshotelgroup.com/delano

gaRcia’s seaFood gRiLLe & Fish MaRket WynWood WaLLs I initiated this outdoor museum of street art with the late visionary developer Tony Goldman in 2009. Tony’s daughter Jessica continues the project, expanding and enhancing it every year. It has become immensely influential and there are now at least 60 Wynwood Walls–inspired street-art projects around the world.

thewynwoodwalls.com

Garcia’s is the most authentic fish restaurant on the bank of the Miami River. You know that a restaurant is good when you see the police eating there.

garciasmiami.com art basel miami beach runs december 1 through 4, 2016 at the miami beach convention center. for more information, visit artbasel.com/miami-beach


FASHION NEWS

BoysssluB After 15 years in the business, designer Stella McCartney steps into the world of menswear. What took her so long?

and Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendrijver, so McCartney’s arrival into the fray—following in the footsteps of Miuccia Prada—is certainly welcome. Male customers can expect McCartney’s effortlessly modern point of view, which is as cool as Stella herself. Looks from the new men’s collection run the gamut from slim black suits paired with athletic slides and socks to tailored herringbone overcoats married with graphic T-shirts and track pants, all of which she calls “moments of life.” “Sometimes menswear houses can be a little bit too precise or a little too uptight or a little too strict in their approach, and for me it was to really introduce some other kind of touch within those frameworks,” she says of the collection’s overall aesthetic. Ultimately, McCartney wants her designs to have a utilitarian sensibility, one that can readily transition from meetings in London’s Square Mile to excursions in Mexico City. “These pieces are meant to be worn; we’re not creating fashion for men that is extreme,” McCartney emphasizes. To that point, McCartney has adopted a seasonless mentality toward her designs, one that also corresponds nicely with her practical see-now, buy-now schedule. “Men don’t buy clothes and then throw them away each season,” she offers. “I’m creating clothes that are to be invested in, for them to be timeless or to either come back around into your eyeline after a few seasons.” If McCartney’s giant womenswear business is any indication, here’s betting that men will be totally enamored by the designer come winter. Priya rao

Stella McCartney for Men iS available at StellaMCCartney.CoM

Images courtesy Stella McCartney

58 vMaGaZine.CoM

“What do men want?” This was the elusive question Stella McCartney faced before creating her first menswear collection. She took her time coming up with an answer, 15 years in fact, which is how long it’s been since her eponymous women’s line launched its offering of real, everyday clothing with a twist, like her Gary Hume–illustrated jumpsuits and “Slippery When Wet” T-shirt dresses. “There was always a reason not to, [but] all of a sudden it was the right moment,” she says of her new designs for guys, which debuted in London early November and hit stores in December. “It just felt right to introduce the man to the Stella woman. We have a voice and a language that we’ve created for our women and it is global, ageless…and there’s an element of humor to it. I wanted to bring that to the menswear,” she explains. McCartney, who trained with tailor Edward Sexton on Saville Row while at Central Saint Martins, first began to expand her language of menswear through the subjects on whom she practiced, namely her husband Alasdhair Willis. “How he wears his clothes was inspiring to see; he wants to have a conversation with the outside world through what he wears,” she says. The same goes for her father, the former Beatle and 18-time Grammy Award–winning musician: “There’s an element of reality and non-reality in a lot of his wardrobe, because on stage he has specific time frames attached to it, so it’s both emotional and visual.” McCartney also gained experience by designing bespoke pieces for Guy Ritchie and the late David Bowie. The men’s fashion scene has been predominantly influenced by male designers, like Dior Homme’s Kris van Assche


Available this December from

L I TT L E B E AR P R E SS

ALL-AMERICAN XVI

W I L D B LU E YON DE R

A journal by

BRUC E W E BER bruceweber.com @bruce_weber The Kline brothers on Allison Ranch, Presidio, TX 2016


WISH LIST

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Jump-start the holiday shopping season with our luxury gift guide.

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1 Chanel Rouge alluRe luminous intense lip colouR in ultRabeRRy ($37, chanel.com) 2 Céline tRi-fold bag in daffodil ($3,100, available at céline’s madison avenue boutique) 3 Miu Miu headband ($1,355, miumiu.com) 4 MiChael kors instaX mini 70 cameRa ($149, michaelkoRs.com) 5 sabine Getty ziggy hoop eaRRings ($9,200, sabinegetty.com) 6 aleXanDer WanG studio wiReless headphones ($599.95, beatsbydRe.com, aleXandeRwang.com) 7 louis Vuitton city guide boX set, blue ($735, louisvuitton.com) 8 lanCôMe veRnis in love nail polish in 361 paRis en Rose ($15.50, lancome-usa.com) 9 Dior dioR so Real sunglasses ($630, available at dioR boutiques) 10 burberry my buRbeRRy eau de paRfum festive edition ($125, buRbeRRy.com)


trends

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Makeup Emi Kaneko (Bryant Artists) Hair Takashi Yusa Models Sarah Brown (The Society Management) and Imade Ogbewi (D1 Models) Photo assistants Romek Rasenas and JP Herrera Stylist assistant Kuschan H. Makeup assistant Yohsuke Hiraka Hair assistant Yuhei Nerome Location Root Studios Catering Monterone


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SEEING SPOTS IMADE WEARS TOP CARVEN JACKET MARC JACOBS BELOW TOP AND SHOES MARC JACOBS SKIRT DIESEL BAG BOTTEGA VENETA LEATHER CUFF CHROME HEARTS EARRINGS EDDIE BORGO TIGHTS STYLIST’S OWN


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FLOWER POWER TOP, CHASE WEARS JACKET GUESS TOP COACH SKIRT CHRISTOPHER KANE SHORTS UNDERNEATH CHANEL SOCKS OZONE EAR CUFF DELFINA DELETTREZ BELOW, SARAH WEARS TOP MSGM


We look back at the vanguard that shaped 2016 and will keep pushing the envelope in the year to come. 66 First, meet the bold visionaries redefining culture today in our candid cover story by Inez & Vinoodh and Jay Massacret. 76 Next, London is calling with a return to glam punk’s roots courtesy of Mario Testino and Paul Cavaco. 80 Nick Knight and Jacob K conjure a luminous take on the season’s most forward-looking couture while Derek Blasberg delves deep into fashion’s scandalous past. 96 The birthplace of haute couture becomes the setting for a fresh take on the season’s best Resort looks in a Parisian urban fantasy by Max Farago and Tom Guinness. 102 Finally, eight of the year’s most provocative headliners stage a gritty pulp homage with Jeff Bark and Beat Bolliger. As the following pages prove, the only way to be a part of history is to make it yourself.

best of 2016


Photography Inez & Vinoodh Whether they’re shaking things up today or looking to redefine tomorrow, Fashion Jay Massacret these are the visionaries shaping the future of things to come.

star power


aliciaakeys Raising Her Voice 2016 has been quite a year for the multiple Grammy Awardwinning artist (she’s got 15 of them, to be exact). After the announcement in March that Keys would be joining The Voice as a judge, she released a new single in May— “In Common,” her first in four years—and topped it all off with the release of her sixth album, Here, which dropped in early November. Coinciding with the single’s release, Keys penned an op-ed for Lena Dunham’s online feminist

newsletter, Lenny Letter, in which she outlined the motiva- advocate. When pressed about the sentiments underlying tions behind her decision to stop wearing makeup. “In Common,” Keys replies, “[Everyone] deserves to have “I think that it’s definitely tricky being a woman,” Keys the right to do what everybody else does and the same opportunities to get where everyone else gets.” points out. “You go to work, and it’s like you don’t put on makeup that day and people say, ‘Oh, you look so tired!’” Indeed, Keys seems ever more confident in her role as The impetus behind her decision to not wear makeup— the musical inheritor of a legacy of social activism that conthough she points out that she is not anti-makeup—is, in nects her with the likes of James Baldwin and Nina Simone. part, fueled by her desire to convey the natural beauty inher- That confidence was evident during Keys’s appearance at ent in all women. “There’s nothing you could do to take away the 2016 Democratic National Convention where, in addithis unbelievably innate beauty that lives inside of you as tion to performing, she headlined PoliticoÕs lecture forum. a woman,” she notes. And we can’t wait to hear even more: Keys’s ability to marry Judging by her new single and the accompanying music soulful music with socially minded commentary continues video—which Keys described in a statement as “celebrat- to strike a chord for us all. JOSEPH AKEL ing our individuality”—her forthcoming album will likely JACKET GIORGIO ARMANI continue to examine issues of gender, race, and social equality, all issues for which she has become an outspoken EARRINGS CARTIER GLOVES SERMONETA VMAGAZINE.COM VMAGAZINE.COM 6771


grimes Music Mage Claire Boucher, better known as Grimes, is one of those rare artists who have managed to break into the mainstream without succumbing to it. She’s a pixie-sized crusader who often sports pastel-hued hair and even angel wings (in the case of her “Flesh Without Blood” video), and she’s become a beacon for a new generation of alternative musicians and independent creators. One year after releasing her fourth album, Art Angels,

Boucher is readying to conclude the visual saga of her electro-pop opus. She has a video coming out with Janelle Monáe for “Venus Fly,” and she recently released four DIY “guerilla videos” created with her brother Mac, a DP, and HANA, her fellow musician and tour mate. “There was no crew, no makeup, no styling—just the camera,” says Boucher. This is Grimes’s reality: a fantastical world where creatively minded individuals collaborate freely in the name of artistic expression. The duality that she embodies as both an outsider artist and an increasingly popular presence in music is also reflected in her ideal aesthetic, which she describes as “the middle ground between elves and Dolly Parton.” (She gets most of her personal clothing on Etsy, but she’s also served as an inspiration to designers: Hedi Slimane tapped her to collaborate on a t-shirt line

for Saint Laurent, and Nicolas Ghesquière has dressed her in Louis Vuitton on numerous occasions. While she may be too humble to admit her status as an icon, she’s not shy in declaring her admiration for others, noting, “When I look and see the young generations coming up, people like Tavi Gevinson and Amandla Stenberg, that gives me hope. I think our society has been really apathetic for a long time, and people are starting to become more politically active and more artistically adventurous, and that gives me a lot of hope.” William DEFEBaUGH

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THE GIRLS OF STAR Ryan Destiny, Brittany O’Grady, Jude Demorest Ac d my Aw d- m t d d ct L D l c t ly h w y f p tt g t l t k G b u y S d b wh m g d f m l t v b cu ty t t th l d g l of his critically acclaimed film

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t b g w t th w ld f c l b ty “I h p th t wh p pl w tch Sta th y f l l k th y’ g m f th b t d w t p t f th m lv ” y D m t “S m t m th w y g l p t y d t l v c l t t h w v p pl th k th t g l wh l k l k th t act or are defined. This shatters that.” PRIYAaRAO

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kellyyrohrbach Beauty and the Beach For someone whose first modeling gig was the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue, Kelly Rohrbach has a markedly healthy attitude about our world’s obsession with beauty. When she was cast in next year’s tongue-in-cheek film reboot of Baywatch as C.J. Parker—the character made famous by Pamela Anderson—she was determined to revamp and modernize the role. “I didn’t want to just be a wax figure hot girl, I sort of made her anti-perfect,” she

says. “Goofy, fun, and awkward at moments.” Sounds like “She’s super grounded and unaffected. She doesn’t see an accurate description of the original Baywatch, with its herself the way the world sees her on the outside.” The montages of lifeguards running in slo-mo, but Rohrbach has same can be said of Rohrbach herself, whose philosophical only fond memories of the show. “It was too risqué to watch musings break model turned actress stereotypes. (Except when my parents were at home,” she recalls. “So me and the one about dating Leonardo DiCaprio.) Consider her my two sisters would wait for them to go out. We thought it thoughts about joining the entertainment business: “The was the coolest thing.” The program stuck with her through opportunity arose and I took it,” she says with a shrug. “It adulthood, too. Just three years ago, she posted a selfie took me down a really cool path, and I learned to not limit on her private Instagram account wearing a red bathing yourself to something because you think you are that thing. suit and captioned it, “Watch out C.J., I’m coming for you!” You are nothing. You are everything. Ride that wave.” Spoken Prophecy fulfilled, and she’s a shoe-in to make C.J. funny. like a true lifeguard. JOSHUA LYON Rohrbach flexed her comedic chops with a guest appearance on Broad City this year as a woman who somehow JACKET céLINE became even more gorgeous after getting hit by a bus. Rohrbach says that she didn’t play C.J. entirely for laughs on fACE LANcÔmE ÉCLAT MIRACLE ILLUMInATInG HIGHLIGHTER though, and strove to bring her some emotional weight.


younggthug Hip-Hop Rebel With the summer release of his mixtape, JEFFERY, Young Thug shed an identity he had spent years crafting, announcing that he would only answer to his given name moving forward (he was born Jeffery Lamar Williams). While the new moniker hasn’t completely caught on yet, it was still a bold move in today’s music climate, where an artist must fight tooth-and-nail to prove who they are and to develop their brand, any variation on which is a risk.

This is, perhaps, Williams’s most enlightened attribute: his willingness to experiment and complete lack of hesitation in doing so. Such is evident with JEFFERY’s artwork, which shows the musician wearing a dress created by Italian menswear designer Alessandro Trincone—who recently showed at VFILES’s New York Fashion Week presentation (where Williams served as a mentor). When asked what message he was hoping to send with the visual, he simply replies, “Stop believing in genders.” The idea is not necessarily a new one, but when put in the context of Williams as an African-American male in hip-hop—two worlds that have, historically, had strict definitions of “masculinity”—and the fact that he is currently in a heterosexual relationship, the implications are massive. The concept of identity, and names, proves to be the most prominent theme on JEFFERY. Each track is titled

after a different influential figure in Williams’s world (“Wyclef Jean,” “RiRi,” and “Kanye West”). “I feel like a lot of artists today aren’t that honest, and I just want to be honest,” says the rapper. “The names of the songs were really who I was thinking about when I was making them or who encouraged me to make them. It was a moment of honesty for me.” He may be fresh off the heels of JEFFERY, but Williams is already hard at work on the next album, due at the end of this year. “It’ll probably be fucking 10 times harder than JEFFERY. Like this one was kind of Jeffery, but it was still kind of street. This one is gonna be just fully Jeffery.” WD

SWEATER RAF SIMONS JEWELRY JEffERY’S OWN


betsy Gold Singer “It’s my weakness…pretty boys and fast cars, little dogs and booze,” says the mononymous singer Betsy between sips of her cocktail in the back booth of Chelsea’s speakeasy-style bar, Bathtub Gin. She seems right at home in the setting. She continues, “I’ve had a few bad men in my time. My next [song] is about a Cuban supermodel I used to date. He was gorgeous, but he was a bastard.” The tall, blonde

bombshell has the look of a vintage Bond girl and the wit of a Bond villain. When talking about ideas for her next music video, Rihanna’s bloody “Bitch Better Have My Money” comes up: “I’ll have to think of something more gruesome. Feeding Cuban supermodels to sharks or something.” Talking to Betsy, one quickly learns she’s a visual thinker, something likely sharpened by her education. Betsy studied fashion at Central Saint Martins, a school that counts Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and more as alumni. Post-university, she found work in Paris at Balenciaga, working under the tutelage of Nicolas Ghesquière. Ultimately, she gave it all up to return to her hometown in Wales, to a dingy trailer in her brother’s backyard. It was there that she began recording music. That leap of faith landed Betsy two recording contracts: one with Columbia Records in the U.S. and another with

Warner Music in the U.K. This year, the singer released her soul-crushing EP, Fair, and quickly followed up with the disco-tinged dance track “Lost & Found.” Play any of her songs for an uninitiated audience and they will almost immediately ask, “Is this Cher?” The vocal similarities are uncanny. Chances are they’d get along swimmingly. The singer has been hard at work finishing her debut album, but it is not, surprisingly, what she is looking forward to most in 2017. “Definitely [buying a] speedboat, darling. The speedboats, the parties, the fabulousness. Obviously, wherever this life takes us.” IAN DAVID MONROE

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issaarae Comedy Queen The designation “YouTube star” usually sends shudders up most thinking people’s spines, conjuring images of whiny confessional videos or spicy pepper challenges. Not so with Issa Rae. She may have gotten her start on the online video platform, but her scripted series, The Misadventures of Awkward Black Girl (a moderately fictionalized version of Rae’s life, full of cringe-inducing yet utterly relatable scenarios) is much more stimulating than

typical Internet fodder. The show resonated hard with viewers, particularly black women, looking for a realistic reflection of their own experiences. “Being able to accept [my own awkwardness] and to find others who identify the same way has been oddly comforting,” Rae says. “Ironically, my insecurities have made me the most confident person.” Her two season series went viral, racking up over 20 million views, enough for HBO to take notice, resulting in her show, Insecure. “Coming from the Internet, you can have an idea, create it, produce it, then put it out for the world to see and get an instant response,” she says of her jump from web to premium cable. “I’ve never taken so long to put something out. It was challenging because I’m an impatient person, but it was so worth it. Every draft made it better. Also, now I have a budget!”

The higher production values certainly make things look more polished, but it’s Rae’s scripts that truly make Insecure glow. Her honest depictions of relationships, friendships, and absurd coworkers, mixed in with welcome over-shares of what really goes on in a person’s head, make for some of the most essential television viewing of the year. “I’m so happy to be a part of this time where there are so many stories of color. We have such a long way to go, but it feels like we’re entering a new era.” jl

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Myzica The New Southern Sound For most bands hailing from Nashville, musical references like Whitney Houston and Cyndi Lauper might seem a little out of place. Not so for indie-pop duo Myzica, made up of producer Micah Tawlks and singer Isaaca Byrd. “There’s a lot of good music in Nashville, but it’s still a little bit difficult for pop and alternative music to break out,” says Tawlks. “We’re not saying we’re doing anything new, but we are at the forefront of that.”

With an ‘80s and early ‘90s-like sound, it’s fitting that evidenced by their sumptuously emotive single “Ready Or Not” Tawlks says their debut album, Love & Desire, which and their cover of “Drive” by the Cars. “There’s a line in one of launched this past fall, was especially influenced by mov- our songs that is ‘I know you want me, I want you,’ and I was ies like John Hughes’s classic Some Kind of Wonderful. “I almost embarrassed about it because it’s super direct,” says was watching it the night before I started working on the Tawlks. “But [singer-songwriter] Matthew [Perryman Jones] first song,” he says. “It was almost a tribute to my childhood.” said, ‘No, it’s fucking perfect. It’s what everyone needs to say.’” Still, the twosome understand that the quintessential So, directness is the name of the game for Myzica come meet-cute love story has changed quite a bit since the ‘80s. 2017 in terms of music and their respective personal lives. “[With social media] some kind of vague post stirs something “I’m gonna be real with you: I’m just a mom, and I also work up,” says Byrd. “It’s like, ‘Oh is that about me? Could it be?’” a serving job,” says Byrd. “I’m ready for this to go someTawlks agrees, “A good friend and I were picking apart some- where and I want to be able to put time into something I’m one’s Twitter and we were like, ‘Why does this feel weird proud of and love.” pr or uncomfortable?’ And then she said back to me, ‘Social media is where every person is trying to be a business and MICAH WEARS JACKET COACH T-SHIRT FrAME ISAACA WEARS SWEATER HILLIEr BArTLEY every business is trying to be a person.’” EARRINGS DEBOrAH pAGANI But Myzica tries to fight against that level of artifice, as


muna Next Gen Pop “I am out, and I feel safe being out, because the three of us are a little army for one another,” says Naomi McPherson, one third of the L.A.-based pop trio MUNA. “That makes me proud to be queer.” Her bandmates, vocalist Katie Gavin and guitarist Josette Maskin, also identify as queer. This year, MUNA released their self-written, self-produced EP, Loudspeaker. The title track is an empowering anthem about not feeling so powerful and, to some, an ode to victims

of abuse, though it’s never explicitly stated. MUNA’s music often combines the uplifting dance-inducing melodies of pop music with the darker subject matters that the genre has historically avoided. “I can say that I am a different person now after having the opportunity to jump around on a stage for nights in a row and scream, ‘This is not my fault,’” says Gavin about performing “Loudspeaker” live. “That’s such a healing thing for me and I want other people to be able to do it with me, ideally every night, every single night.” Idm

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BRITANNIA RULES

Photographer Mario Testino captures Christopher Bailey’s historic see-now, buy-now Burberry collection— marking a dynamic 15-year collaboration. Photography Mario Testino Fashion Paul Cavaco Text Priya Rao


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When Burberry’s Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer, Christopher Bailey, announced that the British house he joined in 2001 would move to a see-now, buynow schedule starting in September, it shook up the fashion ecosystem in one swift move. Hours after the announcement, Tom Ford said he would present his Fall collection—typically seen six months earlier—in September as well, and Ralph Lauren revealed their own consumerfacing plans mere days before their runway show. “We knew the changes we were going to make would allow us to build a closer connection with our customers,” says Bailey. “Our shows have been evolving to close the gap between when you see something on the runway and

when you’re physically able to experience it in-store for some time, so this new format felt like a natural next step.” The designer also adopted a seasonless mentality to fashion. “It often felt slightly superficial to be talking about an Autumn/Winter collection when it was 90 degrees in a third of the shops we sell in,” he muses. “We are a global company and the world doesn’t have one weather pattern.” The clothes themselves effortlessly move between past and present. Elizabethan-era ruffled shirts were offset by military jackets, while oversize sweatshirts boasted sheer sleeves. “It all started with this house I have in Yorkshire from the 1600s, which I was trying to put Wi-Fi in,” explains Bailey. “What should have been something

relatively simple became a big ordeal because the walls were so thick. It got me thinking about all the people that had lived in that house over the last 400 years— what they did, what they wore. And it reminded me of Virginia Woolf’s Orlando: A Biography, which is basically about time.” As for Bailey’s decisions impacting the bigger fashion picture, he’s quite modest. “I wouldn’t want to guess where this is going to take the industry, but it feels right for Burberry to be pioneering this new way of interacting with our communities,” he says. “There isn’t a right or wrong way of doing things, and part of the excitement lies in not knowing exactly where these changes will take us.”


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THIS IS COUTURE

Nick Knight and Jacob K conjure a lucid vision for the season’s most ethereal couture while Musée des Arts Décoratifs curator Denis Bruna and Derek Blasberg discuss the scandals that made fashion history. Photography Nick Knight Fashion Jacob K Text Derek Blasberg

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“I have often been surprised how scandals in fashion—from the 14th century, which was the birth of the idea of fashion, to the present—are often the same. The clothes were too long or too short, too loose or too tight, too colorful or too dark.” —Denis Bruna, curator, Musée des Arts Décoratifs

At some point during the third stop of my haute couture marathon this summer—starting in Paris with Dior, Chanel, and Valentino, of course; then Rome for Fendi’s fur couture show; and finally Naples for Dolce & Gabbana’s three-day couture extravaganza—I witnessed a friend display an emotion few of us experience at fashion week: she was shocked. She was scandalized! The nature of this offense? A group of women had just plunked down more than $1 million on dresses and accessories at the Dolce & Gabbana atelier. It was as if they were picking out what to eat for lunch at McDonald’s: “I’ll have this, that, and the other.” When my friend’s jaw hit the floor, it made me wonder about the role of scandal—and being scandalized—in the world of fashion. On the runway, we’ve seen it all: necklines so low they expose nipples, skirts so high we’ve developed a new term called the “under-butt,” and who can forget Alexander McQueen’s “bumster” trousers that showed the teeniest, tiniest bit of crack. Three seasons ago, Rick Owens showed men’s skirts that inadvertently flounced up on the runway, exposing the privates of the male models (this, I would venture, was an unintentional scandal). The idea that someone could be outraged by the industry seemed so…old fashioned. It was a topic I revisited when I met with Denis Bruna, a curator at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris who has put together a show aptly titled “Tenue Correcte Exigée” (translated as “Appropriate Attire Please”), which opens December 1st. The exhibition’s curatorial thrust looks to chart how fashion has scandalized society. “I have often been surprised how scandals in fashion—from the 14th century, which was the birth of the idea of fashion, to the present—are often the same. The clothes were too long or too short, too loose or too tight, too colorful or too dark,” Bruna explains. “And I wondered, Why? Why during several centuries have the attitudes and mentalities criticized the same things? In everyday life, when we dress, it is difficult to

single out what it is we fear being perceived as in the eyes of others. We live in society—and fashion has a major role in our social environment.” Beginning with the 14th century, the exhibition includes more than 500 designs for men and women, including both couture and ready-to-wear, with a tripartite curatorial theme: rules, gender identity, and excesses—the last group including heels too high, dresses wickedly short, and wigs dangerously oversize. Some of the highlights in the show will sound familiar to any fashion buff: the gender-bending black tuxedo worn by Marlene Dietrich in the 1930 film Morocco; the strapless, cleavage-revealing dress Princess Diana wore on her first public outing after the announcement of her engagement to Prince Charles in 1981; and a dress from Alexander McQueen’s now-infamous “Highland Rape” collection. For me, the very existence of couture in today’s economic climate is itself, in many ways, scandalous. Since the 2008 recession, we’ve been told that couture is a dying industry—too elitist, too rich, and too fancy. Marie Antoinette immediately comes to mind quipping (or not), in the face of financial inequality, “Let them eat cake”—them, of course, being the economically downtrodden. And yet, here the shows were, the most elaborate, inspiring displays from fashion’s laboratory, where the biggest and most refined ideas are born. Observing Celine Dion sitting across from me at the Dior couture show, I was reminded of the buzzed-about controversy surrounding her decision to wear a reversed white tuxedo with an oversize white fedora to the 1999 Oscars. It seems so tame now, doesn’t it? “What shocked yesterday, no longer shocks today,” Bruna sighs. But what is important—and what keeps the world of fashion alive—is that we all enjoy a little scandal once in a while. Be it a hint of skin or even the pricetag, we’ve been surprising ourselves for centuries.

“For me, the very existence of couture in today’s economic climate is itself, in many ways, scandalous. Since the 2008 recession, we’ve been told that couture is too elitist, too rich, and too fancy. And yet, here the shows were, the most elaborate, inspiring displays from fashion’s laboratory, where the biggest and most refined ideas are born.”—Derek Blasberg


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VIKTOR & ROLF HAUTE COUTURE WOVEN JACKET CRAFTED OUT OF TULLE AND FABRIC FROM THE FOLLOWING PAST COLLECTIONS: HYERES, GLAMOUR FACTORY, VAN GOGH GIRLS, THE FASHION SHOW ON FACE DIOR DIORSKIN NUDE AIR LUMINIZER POWDER


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LUXURY RESORT

V gives the year’s best cruise looks a decidedly 80’s twist, combining vibrant patterns and offthe-cuff layering. Photography Max Farago Fashion Tom Guinness

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femmesaa fatales

Photography Jeff Bark Fashion Beat Bolliger

This season's V girls wear Resort pieces with a film noir twist.

jemimaakirke The Outlaw The ladies of Girls are moving on to presumed adulthood after six brilliant seasons, and we can’t wait to see what’s next for Kirke, whose Jessa gave us the show’s richest character evolution.

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How would you describe your style? Disoriented yet expensive. What is one book you recommend everyone should read? Wuthering Heights by Emily Brontë. In 2016, I was most inspired by... My children. They break me and build me up every single day. The best film I saw this year was... Joshy. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? To be able to measure, on some kind of exact scale or chart, how well I’m doing at parenting. Currently I’m listening to... I prefer the radio. It’s noncommittal and I like the surprise factor. But if I’m having people over, I like to throw on a little

disco or Sinatra these days. 2016 was... Implosive. Intense. Like being tumbled in a relentless succession of waves and trying to come up for air. 2017 will be... Calm. It has to be.

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janelle monÁe The Chanteuse From her roof-raising homage to Prince at this year’s BET Awards and laying down guest vocals for disco icon Chic’s comeback album, not to mention her forthcoming bigscreen debut in Moonlight, this year Monáe’s voice was heard loud and clear.

How would you describe your style? Time travel chic. What is one book you recommend everyone should read? The Great Cosmic Mother by Monica Sjöö. In 2016, I was most inspired by... The Millennials and women protesting on front lines. The best film I saw this year was... I have two: Moonlight and Hidden Figures. Currently, I’m listening to... A Seat at the Table by Solange Knowles and Lamentations by Moses Sumney. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? To delete racism, sexism, hatred, and evil out of the hearts and minds of all humans and aliens.

2016 was... The year of “Black Girl Magic.” 2017 will be... The year of “Black Girl Magic” and “Carefree Black Girl.”

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gilliannjacobs The Vixen The Netflix original series Love was one of last winter’s sweetest surprises—a refreshingly honest portrait of relationships and addiction, led by Jacobs’s emotional mix of cynicism with a tiny bit of hope. More, please.

How would you describe your style? Prints, prints, and more prints. Currently I’m listening to... Blood Orange and lots of podcasts: You Must Remember This, Sooo Many White Guys, and Radiolab. In 2016, I was most inspired by... Megan Smith, the Chief Technology Officer of the United States, who I had the pleasure of interviewing for Lenny Letter. The best film I saw this year was... The documentary Tickled. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? Fly invisibly through time. That combines a couple of key ones, right?

What is one book you recommend everyone should read? The Man Who Mistook His Wife for a Hat by Oliver Sacks. He sparked my interest in neuroscience and the beautiful mystery of the human brain. 2016 was... Terrifying. 2017 will be... Better? Fingers crossed.

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dilone The Stranger Dilone shot right past "one to watch" after walking in Bottega Veneta's Fall/Winter 2016 menswear show, scoring campaigns for Versace and Balmain. Expect to see her stunning face everywhere in the coming year.

How would you describe your style? Still evolving. I dress androgynous and dark some days, sporty and feminine others. Depends on my mood and the weather. I just like to be comfortable. What is one book you recommend everyone should read? The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho. In 2016, I was most inspired by... The Dominican Republic. Visiting made me want to get more in touch with my roots. The best film I saw this year was... I finally saw Room and bawled my eyes out while I was on a flight. The guy next to me kept laughing. Currently I’m listening to... Lots and lots of old-school R&B.

If you could have any superpower, what would it be? Flying and the ability to heal others. 2016 was... A blessing beyond words. 2017 will be... The game changer!

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ruthhbell The Gun for Hire After bursting onto the scene in 2015 with Hedi Slimane's V couture story and a French Vogue feature shot by David Sims and styled by Joe McKenna, Ruth Bell has shown no signs of slowing down. Or any desire to grow her hair out: she continues to inspire girls all over to chop their own locks. 112 VMAGAZINE.COM

How would you describe your style? Baggy, boyish, and comfy. What is one book you recommend everyone should read? Walking the Amazon by Ed Stafford. In 2016, I was most inspired by... My best friend and her family. They made a film together to educate people about a disease that affects them. The best film I saw this year was... Bad Moms because it was stupid and funny. Currently I’m listening to... I’m going through a reggae phase. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? Teleportation, so I wouldn’t have to sit on a plane anymore.

2016 was... Challenging for everyone. 2017 will be... Hopefully more peaceful than 2016.

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fletcher The Empath A graduate of the Clive Davis Institute at NYU, Fletcher gained major traction on Spotify this year, with over 50 million plays before she even released her first EP, Finding Fletcher, in September.

How would you describe your style? L.A. meets New York. Boho-grunge chic with a western influence. What is one book you recommend everyone read? The Defining Decade by Meg Jay. It’s about your 20s being the most important years of your life and how to make the most of them. In 2016, I was most inspired by... There have been far too many senseless shootings and killings, but I’ve been so inspired by humans banding together to spread love and positive energy—particularly the way the LGBT community came together after Orlando. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? The ability to transport myself.

The best film I saw this year was... Carol or The Danish Girl. I’m a sucker for extraordinary love stories. Currently, I’m listening to... It’s been really cool to see my peers like Emily Warren and Maggie Rogers rise up with me. 2016 was... Promising. 2017 will be... Powerful.

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kateeberlant The Jester

With a sense of humor both surreal and utterly grounded in reality, Berlant nails roles like Denise St. Roy—a famous artist so full of herself that no one dares tell her that her “masterpiece” collaboration with Sprite is just corporate branding—in Netflix’s The Characters.

How would you describe your style? Jewish therapist on vacation. What is one book you recommend everyone should read? Feminism Is for Everybody by bell hooks. In 2016, I was most inspired by... The woman I saw in a Whole Foods parking lot who was trying to get two birds to stop fighting. The best film I saw this year was... Krisha. Currently I’m listening to... Little Ann. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? The ability to remember my Apple ID.

2016 was... Hot. 2017 will be... Hotter.

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makenzieeleigh The Vamp From a seductress who viciously beats up a rival on Gotham to a sweet Dallas Cowboys cheerleader who catches the eye of the title character in Ang Lee’s Billy Lynn’s Long Halftime Walk, Leigh’s versatility defies typecasting.

How would you describe your style? Mood dependent. What is one book you recommend everyone should read? Slouching Towards Bethlehem by Joan Didion. In 2016, I was most inspired by... Thinx underwear: the product, the business model, and general badassery of the women behind it. The best film I saw this year was... Krisha. Currently I’m listening to: The Little Prince soundtrack <3. If you could have any superpower, what would it be? To read at lightning speed.

2016 was... A year that required a lot of patience. 2017 will be... A year that hopefully requires a little less patience.

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2016: The year ThaT was

NICK KNIGhT: Travis Scott

Musician

One of the highlights of the year for me was working with Travis Scott—he came into the studio with enthusiasm, energy, and total focus. He really had no physical boundaries, and when he left, there wasn’t an ounce of energy saved, which is a gift for an image maker.

The contributors who helped shape V in 2016 give their nominations for the best of the year.

james FraNCo: Stranger Things

GIa CoPPoLa: tElEVision sEriEs

Stranger Things rocked my world, and everyone else’s. Whether you were a kid in the ’80s and understood all the pop references—to Tolkien, Star Wars, Spielberg, Stand by Me, The Goonies, E.T., and basically all the movies of my childhood—or you were just tapping into the amazing characters and the authenticity of their dynamics together, it was a stunning and engaging piece of television that further proved that the more interesting stories and characters are moving away from movies and into the long form of television’s new incarnations.

Girls on Fire by Robin Wasserman

author

It’s been a while since I fell in love with a contemporary novel. Robin’s writing is simple yet sophisticated. It accurately depicts the dangerous power of teenage girls, and how finding your best girlfriend might just be the deepest form of love.

aLICIa Keys: Between the World and Me by Ta-Nehisi Coates author

shot by hEDI sLIMANE FoR V98

Lee DaNIeLs: Lin-Manuel Miranda playwright & actor Lin is such a rare talent and the world finally got to see that with the masterpiece that was Hamilton!

sTePheN GaN: The Jungle Book

MoViE

I would like to shake the hand of director Jon Favreau. His seamless use of technology to enhance storytelling has set the bar! Every day at V we try to make magic, fusing the best in fashion, music, and culture and Favreau’s achievement is an inspiration to me. Storytelling will never be the same!

This page, clockwise from top right: Courtesy Epic Records; Courtesy HarperCollins; Courtesy Walt Disney Pictures; Courtesy Spiegel & Grau; Hedi Slimane for V98 ©Hedi Slimane; Courtesy Netflix

Between the World and Me was such a beautful, honest, real, gorgeous account of life today. Ta-Nehisi Coates really inspired me a lot and especially in regards to the music I’ve created. [Coates’s] direct, brutal, honesty has been a theme [for the album], and I’ve been looking for it and exploring it everywhere around me. I just pull it out of myself and have learned not to shy away from that, not to be afraid to be vulnerable, not to be afraid of being “weak.” I think those who can allow themselves to be weak are the strongest people—I think that’s really powerful.


alEX PEttyFEr: Karl Lagerfeld in Havana It took real courage and vision for Karl Lagerfeld to have ventured into such territory...the Chanel cruise show crossed so many barriers. In 2016, Cuba opened its doors to Karl, the Pope, and Obama. I was thrilled to have been able to photograph the occasion.

taylor hill: Troye Sivan’s Performance at V’s “Face the Music” party to celebrate the launch of V103 It wasn’t that it was just an occasion to celebrate my first U.S. magazine cover or that it was a September V launch party on Labor Day. That night was memorable to me because the fashion world got to watch Troye perform live for the first time. To me, he’s the next generation—the next music icon!

daPhnE GUinnEss:

aManda harlECh:

Tony Visconti

Ralph Fiennes

ProDUcEr

My hero in 2016 is Tony Visconti. His impact on modern culture is so deep that its significance is unfathomable. He’s had a hand in so many records that have been the soundtrack of my life, from bands like T. Rex, Sparks, Thin Lizzy, right up to Bowie’s last great masterpiece, Blackstar. Tony rules!

actor

His extraordinary, potent, and unforgettable acting in Richard lll, The Master Builder, and as Jack Tanner in Shaw’s Man and Superman.

This page, clockwise from top right: Alex Pettyfer for V101; Steven Klein for V99 ©Steven Klein; Mario Testino for V103 ©Mario Testino; Photo Matteo Prandoni/BFA.com; Courtesy Daniel Driensky

dEborah watson: Bruce Weber’s “Far from Home”

with lady gaga shot by steven Klein FoR v99

Bruce and I have been friends and collaborators for about 25 years, so I was so excited when Dallas Contemporary decided to celebrate his legacy by launching “Far From Home,” his largest fashion photography exhibition to date. It features over 250 pictures (many of which have never been seen before) that he took all across the globe, as well as a selection of his short films.

maRio testino FoR v103 VMAGAZINE.COM 117 111 VMAGAZINE.coM


joan smalls

doutzen kroes photographed by nathaniel goldberg

gigi hadid

christy turlington, linda evangelista, and naomi campbell photographed by patrick demarchelier styled by carlyne cerf de dudzeele

karlie kloss

hailey baldwin and josephine skriver

Supermodels and industry influencers unite for the #KnotOnMyPlanet campaign to benefit the Elephant Crisis Fund. 112 vmagazine.com 118 VMAGAZINE.COM

The idea for the image is credited to Evangelista’s agent at DNA, David Bonnouvrier, who has been one of the orchestrators of the #KnotOnMyPlanet campaign. The photo represents more than just a reunion of epic, historical proportions: it speaks to the very heart of the fashion industry and how far its leaders are willing to go when they get behind a cause—one that is of particular importance to Evangelista. “I think [the cause is] personal to everyone,” says the model. “Just the fact that my grandchildren won’t be able to see [elephants]…It’s such a pity when it can so easily be rectified if we get the word out. In the fashion industry, we can be so fickle and so vain—guilty here—but I think that together we can really do something.” And right she was: the campaign has raised over 1.6 million dollars and has over 1.5 billion social media impressions so far. The Elephant Crisis Fund has earned a significant amount of money outside of the campaign as well, thanks to contributions from key donors such as Leonardo DiCaprio. The money raised will go directly toward fighting the poachers hunting elephants and help fund key research about one of Africa’s most vital and rapidly disappearing species. william defebaugh

fOR mORe iNfORmaTiON abOuT The #kNOTONmyplaNeT campaigN aNd The elephaNT cRiSiS fuNd ViSiT kNOTONmyplaNeT.ORg

Photos joansmalls/Instagram; gigihadid/Instagram; karliekloss/Instagram; haileybaldwin/Instagram

tyingg thegenOt thee

This past New York Fashion Week, Doutzen Kroes led a legion of supermodels and fashion icons in launching #KnotOnMyPlanet, a campaign designed to benefit the Elephant Crisis Fund. It was created by Save The Elephants and the Wildlife Conservation Network in partnership with a long list of brands, including Tiffany & Co. and Snapchat, to help end the poaching of elephants in Africa for their ivory. Currently, some 30,000 elephants are slaughtered each year—that’s about one every 15 minutes. Drawing a connection between the adages “Tie a knot to remember” and “Elephants never forget,” industry heavy-weights were asked to post images and videos of their own knots on social media with information about the campaign. The initiative drew contributions from luminaries including Raf Simons and Marc Jacobs, as well as models and It Girls Joan Smalls, Gigi Hadid, and Cara Delevingne. One of the true highlights, though, came from Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, and Naomi Campbell. The holy trinity—who embodied the term “supermodel” in the ‘90s—posed together for the first time since 1989, shooting with Patrick Demarchelier, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, and Oribe for the campaign. “Everyone was there: Patrick, Oribe, Carlyne. It was like time stood still,” Evangelista told V in an exclusive interview about the shoot. “Somebody said something at one point and Naomi started cracking up so much she was in tears. It was fun and it was effortless. It felt like family.”


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The BRITISH WARMER, 2016 Photographed by Steven Meisel #RLICONICSTYLE

V104: Special Digital Edition with Betsy  
V104: Special Digital Edition with Betsy