VIS MAJOR FF22

VIS MAJOR MAGAINE IS NYU FASHION BUSINESS ASSOCIATION’S DIGITAL MAGAZINE. FF22 IS OUR EIGHTH EDITION.

THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS

From a Symbol of Sadness to Sophistication

In the 1800s and early 1900s, women wore long, full, black dresses solely reserved for mourning the loss of a loved one. Now, women often wear short, slim black dresses for almost any occasion, known as the little black dress. The role of black dresses adapted as the role of women adapted through World War I, transforming the black dress from connoting grief and seclusion to liveliness and attractiveness instead.

In Victorian times, from about 1815 to 1915, men’s mourning dress code was only expected to be worn for a few months after a death whereas women’s mourning dress code was expected to be worn for the first, the second, the third, and the half-mourning period, which lasted a span of about four years (Bedikian). The black mourning dress concealed most of the woman’s body, covering her legs with the length, her arms with the sleeves, and her chest with the high collar. The dress was also adorned with detailed designs and often accompanied with expensive jewelry and other special occasion accessories. The flamboyance of the outfit was not only a sign of respect to the woman’s lost loved ones, but it also was a sign that she was a widow and thus not a prospect for bachelors.

During World War I, most American men between the ages of 21 to 45 years old served as soldiers. With the abundance of U.S. soldier casualties by the end of the war, black mourning dresses became a staple in the

daily female wardrobe. Because women were busy in charge of the household, and later became responsible for entering the workforce to replace the males who were absent in service, female mourning became more casual in both etiquette and attire.

Corsets for the dresses became impractical because women were performing arduous tasks in the workforce; plus, because of wartime rations, the steel needed to make these corsets was prioritized towards making weapons instead. Additionally, because wool and silk were being used for war uniforms, simpler fabrics like cotton were used to manufacture the mourning dresses. Moreover, the fabric used for dresses also decreased from an average of 19¼ yards to about 7 yards, making the dresses shorter and less full in comparison to the 40-pound mourning gowns.

Although these changes did decrease the price of the dresses, some women made use of their formal dresses by dying them black to save even more money which caused the original mourning apparel market to decrease. To keep customers, one company in particular, Courtaulds, advertised their black dresses as both a mourning and formal dress. Slowly, the style of the black dress started to become more slim-fitting and short compared to the former conservative style.

In Vogue’s 1926 October issue, fashion designer Coco Chanel introduced the first little black dress as a

Vogue, October 1926

statement of style. The dress had a dropped waistline, a raised hemline, and a square neckline. Despite being simple in design – opposite of the past stereotypical female fashion – the dress was comfortable for everyday tasks, yet still deemed feminine and chic. Vogue compared the dress to that of Henry Ford’s car, making the dress known as “the Ford dress” and subsequently connoting it as a symbol of wealth and class.

Fom high-end places like five-star restaurants to places like shopping districts, women were seen dressed in little black dresses — and not for the purpose of mourning — but for the purpose of fashion. These women were of all ages — both young and old — and of all classes — both poor and wealthy. Many women enjoyed the little black dress because it wasn’t expensive to purchase, it didn’t show dirt or stains, it slimmed their figure, and it looked elegant.

Throughout history, the little black dress continued to evolve as influential women reinvented the look. One of the most famous instances of the little black dress was by actress Audrey Hepburn in the opening scene of her 1961 film, Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Since then, countless other celebrity women have continued to keep the little black dress in style.

Along with their newfound freedom in the household and the workforce, women now had the freedom to wear black dresses whether in mourning or not. The color black also was no longer a sign of seclusion to repel suitors but seen as a color of attractiveness. Today, the little black dress is a timeless piece hanging in many female wardrobes, proving that fashion has the power to evolve in both style and statement.

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CREDITS

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Musie halle Nora comtois Riya chaturvedi Graphics: Alisha Dhir Jewelry

Alina Apostolache Valerie Rodriguez-Castro Leah Seo

Stephanie Untch Michelle Lu Egesi Iheduru Graphics: Aline Apostolache

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Musie halle Graphics: Alisha Dhir

The little black dress

Nora Comtois Graphics: Kelly Han Ironic Fashion Natalie Hohler Ari

Ellie Cozy

Morgan Schreiber Ameenah Leigh Graphics: Alisha Dhir

The Charioteer

Writing: Bella Martinez Styling: Bella Martinez Photography: Bella Martinez & Athena Zinn Models: Bella Martinez & Athena Zinn Graphics: Bella Martinez

Editor in Chief: Radhika Mashru

Creative Director: Alisha Dhir Cover: Qiqi Zhou and Alisha Dhir