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WELCOME TO

RIJEKA Broj

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Issue 6

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LIPANJ

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JUne 2012

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Godina

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Year 3

Nije za prodaju / Not for sale

Festival mora / Sea festival

Specijalitet / Specialty

Pršut i bura s Kvarnera Prosciutto and bora from the Kvarner

Barke, lađe, brodovi... Boats, ships, vessels... Morčić

Riječki srećonoša Rijeka's good luck charm

Tema broja / This edition theme

Doživjeti osebujni grad... Experience a peculiar town...


6. 8. 16. 20.

Uvodnik / Editorial Tema broja / This edition theme Doživjeti osebujni grad... Experience a peculiar town...

Intervju / Interview Ivan Ljubičić

Novi grad / New City Veseli zidovi riječki Cheerful Rijeka’s walls

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Kvarnerski podvodni muzej potopljenih brodova Kvarner’s underwater museum of sunken ships

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Morčić- riječki srećonoša Morčić – Rijeka’s good luck charm

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Riječki hosteli – omiljeni smještaj mladih i onih koji se tako osjećaju Rijeka hostels - favourite accomodation place of youth and those who feel young

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Hand Press d.o.o. J.Trdine 2, 51 000 Rijeka e-mail: info@handpress.hr

Šta da? Really?

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Plaža za pse na Kantridi Dog beach on Kantrida

UREDNIČKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD

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Barke, brodovi, lađe... Boats, ships, vessels...

IZVRŠNI UREDNIK / EXECUTIVE EDITOR

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Oblici vremena Shapes of time

GRAFIČKI UREDNIK / ART DIRECTOR

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Rijeka foto festival The Rijeka Photo Festival

NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS

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Olimpijski duh živi u Rijeci The olympic spirit lives in Rijeka

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Bazeni tik uz more Swimming pools right by the sea

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Kantrida, Rijeka Kantrida, Rijeka

IMPRESSUM NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER

Petar Škarpa, Lea Stoiljković Medved, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Velid Đekić, Igor Rivetti, Sandra Ivanišević Sandra Ivanišević Marijan Baćac

Velid Đekić, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Igor Rivetti, Larry Ambrozich, Lidija Šušak, Andrea Bralić Marić, Mašenka Vukadinović, Sanja Krmpotić, Branka Malnar, Valentino Benčić, Danijel Frka, Loreta Parkelj, Silvija Vidović, Barbara Cakar

UREDNIK FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTO EDITOR Rino Gropuzzo

MARKETING

Hand Press d.o.o. e-mail: sandra@handpress.hr

PRIJEVODI / TRANSLATION Prolingua-Ri d.o.o.

58. 61.

TISAK / PRINTED BY

WEB2PRINT d.o.o., Zagreb

NAKLADA / EDITION 4000 kom

ISSN 1847-5019

Izlazi dva puta godišnje Published twice a year

Časopis je realiziran u suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom grada Rijeke This magazine was launched in collaboration with the Rijeka Tourist Board

64. 68. 73.

Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka Šetnjom do dobrog raspoloženja Walking in order to achieve a good mood

Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time Carpathia, krenula u Rijeku i završila u povijesti The Carpathia, which left for Rijeka and finished in history

Zoom Egon Hreljanović

Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - Events Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Pršut i bura s kvarnera Prosciutto and bora from the kvarner

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Svjetska poslastica iz plavoga mulja Kvarnera A world delicacy from the blue Kvarner mud

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Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us


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Uvodnik Još je jedno ljeto pred nama, još jedan broj Welcome to Rijeka sa člancima koji će vam pomoći da odaberete ono što vam je po volji. Jer Rijeka nudi mnoge sadržaje u narednim mjesecima. U temi broja opisujemo Rijeku okom kreatora City Break paketa. Poželite li doći u naš grad na tri dana, vjerujte, biti će to dinamična, zabavna i sadržajna tri dana.

Ronioci i obožavatelji plavih dubina u izvrsnom članku našeg ronioca i podvodnog fotografa Danijela Frke mogu doživjeti brodove koji odavno leže na dnu mora. Na Kvarneru nije zaboravljena tradicionalna gradnja drvenih brodica, o čemu govori tekst Branke Malnar. Ako više volite šumu i svježi zeleni mir, tada će vam članak o šetnicama u okolici Rijeke biti dobar putokaz.

Imate li ljubimca koji vam je društvo i na odmoru, Rijeka ima plažu i za njega: ništa nije prepušteno slučaju. U nizu članaka želimo vam da se osjećate kao kod kuće i da uživate u našem gradu kao što uživamo i mi, svaki dan!. Uredništvo


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Editorial Another summer is ahead of us, another edition of Welcome to Rijeka with articles that will help you to choose all that you desire. As Rijeka will be offering numerous events in the coming months, the main theme of this edition describes Rijeka through the eye of the City Break package. If you would like to visit our town and stay here for three days, believe it or not, they will be three dynamic, entertaining and eventful days.

All diving enthusiasts and lovers of the blue depths can experience the ships that have lain on the sea bed since ancient times by reading the excellent article written by our diver and undersea photographer, Danijel Frka. The Kvarner region has not forgotten the traditional construction of wooden boats which is explained in the text written by Branka Malnar. If you prefer woodlands and fresh, green peace, a good guide post will be the article which talks about the footpaths in Rijeka’s surroundings. If you have a pet that you would like to take on holiday too, Rijeka has a beach for him as well: nothing has been left to chance. All these articles are designed to make you feel at home and to help you enjoy our city as we do, day after day! Editorial board


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Tema broja / This edition theme

Rijeka postaje sve popularnija City Break destinacija Rijeka is becoming a more popular City Break destination

Piše / Written by: Mašenka Vukadinović

Doživjeti

osebujni grad…

Experience a peculiar town...


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Rijeka je uistinu grad koji na jedinstven način spaja staro i novo. Doživjeti i upoznati Rijeku teško je bez njezine prošlosti. Krećete li iz smjera Zagreba, umjesto autocestom krenite polako, uživajući u prirodnim ljepotama, putevima izgrađenim u doba Austro-Ugarske: Lujzijanom i Karolinom. Bile su to najsuvremenije ceste 19. stoljeća. Upoznat ćete grad industrijske baštine. Grad torpeda. Prvoga u svijetu! I grad karnevala. Kao što Rio de Janeiro ima sambu, u Rijeci ćete zaplesati "potresujku", zabavni lokalni ples, jedini takve vrste na svijetu! Tražite li mir i utjehu? U Gradu zaštitnika, Svetoga Vida, posjetite njegovu katedralu ili se uspnite trsatskim stubama do najstarijega marijanskog svetišta. Bilo da ste u Rijeci prvi puta ili svakodnevno šećete njezinim ulicama, vodimo vas u šetnju riječju i slikom. Jer, puno je razloga zašto zavoljeti ili ponovno se zaljubiti u ovaj grad.

Istraživanje Rijeke uz laptop Neka vaše prvo odredište bude najprije glavno šetalište i poprište gradskoga života - riječko Korzo. U samom središtu grada, osvježite se na nekoj od gradskih terasa. Zamolite konobara da vam natoči i čašu vode iz slavine – riječka voda poznata je po svojoj kvaliteti i okusu. Promotrite zanimljiva pročelja na riječkome Korzu, među kojima su i vrijedne barokne zgrade. Iz vremena kada je Rijeka bila opasana bedemima dominira riječki simbol - Gradski toranj sa

Rijeka really is a city that in its own unique way combines both old and new. To experience and get to know Rijeka is difficult without knowing its past. If you are coming from the Zagreb direction, rather than taking the highway, take the slow road and enjoy the natural beauties, the roads built during the Austro-Hungarian Empire: Lujzijana and Karolina. These were the most advanced roads of 19th century. You will encounter a town with an industrial heritage. The town of the Torpedo. The first torpedo in the world! And a Carnival town. As Rio de Janeiro has samba, in Rijeka you will dance "potresujka", a local entertaining dance, the only one of its kind in the world! Are you looking for peace and consolation? In the city whose patron is St Vitus, visit its cathedral or climb the Trsat steps that will bring you to the oldest Marian shrine. Whether you are in Rijeka for the first time or you walk along its streets every day, we would like to take you for a walk with words and pictures. Since, there are many reasons to fall in love with or to rediscover this city.

Researching Rijeka with laptop Let your first destination be the main promenade and the heart of town life – Rijeka's Korzo. Right in the city centre, refresh yourself on one of the city's terraces. Ask a waiter to pour you a glass of tap water – Rijeka water is known for its quality and taste.


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satom. Nakon što grad doživite na prvi pogled - upalite laptop. Spojite se na besplatnoj WiFi lokaciji i iskoristite online vodiča da vam ukaže na lokalne običaje, kuriozitete, gradske znamenitosti…Riječko Korzo, Stari grad i lukobran ugodni su za šetnju zbog brojnih zanimljivih prizora, a i zato što gotovo uopće nema uzbrdica. A gradske konobe i restorane iskoristite za predah.

Foto-safari riječke industrijske baštine Jedinstveni su prizori koje fotoaparatom možete zabilježiti šetajući se brojnim tragovima industrijske baštine. Da vam približimo nekadašnju industrijsku moć Rijeke: nekada je u gradu postojalo na desetke najrazličitijih pogona. Proizvodili su se strojevi, jedra, užad, svijeće, papir, naftni derivati, duhan, šećer, čokolada, namještaj, skije, led, riblje konzerve, pića, opeka, keramičke pločice, kemijski proizvodi, električna energija, asfalt, oružje, odjeća, žigice itd. Mnogo toga više ne postoji jer se Rijeka iz industrijskoga, pretvorila u grad urbanog turizma. Samo u Rijeci možete šetati nekadašnjom tvornicom papira Hartera, u kojoj se danas održava poznati glazbeni festival, a 1833. je u rad pušten prvi parni stroj u ovom dijelu Europe.

Grad torpeda. Prvoga na svijetu! U Rijeci je 1860-tih konstruiran i proizveden prvi svjetski torpedo. Ubrzo je Rijeku i njezinu industriju stavio u žarište zanimanja svih najvažnijih svjetskih pomorskih sila. Riječka tvornica torpeda i njezin originalni proizvod postali su ubrzo glavni riječki izvozni artikl. To je gotovo pola stoljeća bio najveći tehnološki i komercijalni uspjeh, proizvod na koji su bili ponosni svi građani Rijeke. Godišnji proizvodni kapacitet ove tvornice bio je

Observe the interesting facades on Rijeka’s Korzo, among which you will find valuable Baroque buildings. From the time when Rijeka was surrounded by defense walls the symbol of Rijeka dominates the city - The City clock tower. Once you have experienced the city first hand - turn on your laptop. Connect yourself to the free Wi-Fi location and use the online guide to show you the local customs, curiosities, city sights ... Rijeka's Korzo, the Old town and the pier are pleasant for walking thanks to the many interesting scenes, and because it is almost totally flat. Moreover, the city's taverns and restaurants are an ideal place to take a break.

Photo-safari of rijeka's industrial heritage unique are the scenes that the camera can record when walking along the numerous tracks of our industrial heritage. Let us take you closer to Rijeka's former industrial power: once there were a dozen very different factories in this town. Here machines, sails, ropes, candles, paper, petroleum products, tobacco, sugar, chocolate, furniture, skis, ice, canned fish, drinks, bricks, ceramic tiles, chemical products, electricity, asphalt, weapons, clothing, matches etc. were manufactured. Much of the aforementioned no longer exists as Rijeka has transformed from an industrial city to a city of urban tourism. Only in Rijeka can you walk around the former Hartera paper factory, which today is a place where a famous music festival is held whilst in 1833 the first steam engine in this part of Europe was put into operation here.


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otprilike 1000 torpeda. Svjedok svega toga je do danas sačuvana lansirna rampa torpeda iz 1930-ih, svjetski primjer industrijske baštine.

Putevima višestoljetnog pomorstva i brodogradnje Na toj dugoj tradiciji nastala je i riječka luka. A na lukobranu je najljepše doživjeti Rijeku s mora. Osim ako nisu na pučini, tu ćete sresti i pokojeg riječkog ribara na privezanoj koči ili plivarici. Šetnicom dužine gotovo 2 kilometra promotrite reprezentativan niz zgrada duž rive. Iz 19. su stoljeća, razdoblja kad je Rijeka bila velika i moćna trgovačka luka. Početkom devedesetih dolazi do propasti industrije, no ostaje pažnje vrijedno nasljeđe. Na lukobranu će vam zasigurno pažnju privući stare lučke dizalice. Pogled se pruža i na jedinstvena lučka skladišta s obilježjima mađarske secesije. Svojedobno je riječka luka zauzimala 10. mjesto među europskim lukama, iza Amsterdama i ispred Venecije. U današnjoj modernoj luci, ti romantični tragovi prošlosti podjsećaju na mukotrpan rad mnogih Riječana, zahvaljujući kojima je Rijeka bila posvuda prepoznata kao lučki grad.

Tajna veza Rijeke i Titanica U Rijeci se nalazi i jedini u Europi sačuvan prsluk za spašavanje s Titanica. Naime, Rijeku i slavni parobrod Titanic izravno povezuje brod Carpathia koji je plovio na liniji New York - Rijeka, a spašavao je preživjele brodolomce s Titanica. Riječanin Josip Car na Carpathiji je bio konobar, a sačuvani prsluk za spašavanje darovao je Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog

The town of the Torpedo. The first in the world! The world's first torpedo was constructed and built in Rijeka in 1860s. Soon it put Rijeka and its industry into the spotlight of the world's most important maritime powers. Rijeka’s torpedo factory and its original product quickly became a major export item for the city. This technological and commercial success lasted for almost a half of a century, the product of which all citizens of Rijeka were proud. The annual production capacity of this factory was around 1000 torpedo. Proof of all that today is the preserved torpedo launching ramp from the 1930s, the world example of industrial heritage.

Over the centuries old paths of seafaring and shipbuilding The Rijeka port was established on that long tradition. And being on the Rijeka pier is the most beautiful way to experience Rijeka from the sea. Unless you are on the open sea, here you can meet Rijeka fisherman tying up their trawlers or gillnets. From the almost 2 kilometer long promenade take a look at the representative number of buildings along the waterfront. These are from the 19th century, a period when Rijeka was a large and powerful trading port. In the early 1990s, industry collapsed, but a valuable heritage worthy of attention remained. The old harbour cranes on the breakwater will surely attract your attention. The view also extends to the unique port warehouses with characteristics


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of the Hungarian secession. Once the Rijeka port was in 10th position amongst all European ports, after Amsterdam and before Venice. In today's modern port, these romantic traces of the past are a reminder of the hard work of many people of Rijeka, thanks to which Rijeka was recognized far and wide as a port city.

The secret relationship of Rijeka and the Titanic rijeka is home to the only lifejacket from the Titanic to be preserved in Europe. Rijeka and the famous steamship Titanic are directly connected by the Carpathia, a ship which sailed en route from New York to Rijeka and which saved a number of castaways from the Titanic. Rijeka citizen, Josip Car was working as waiter on the Carpathia, and gave the preserved lifejacket to the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral, situated in the famous Rijeka Governor's Palace. The Museum will provide you with many valuable exhibits; it will tell a story about seafaring and shipbuilding in the Kvarner region in the best possible way, from prehistoric to modern times.

Luck bringer – Rijeka’s Moretto look for the Moretto in Rijeka galleries or jewelleries. A souvenir from Rijeka with a black head and a white turban, that is usually found in jewellery shops, and was once brought by only sons, sailors (worn in the right ear) as well as fishermen as a form of protection. The legend about its origin goes back to the 16th century, when Rijeka citizens,


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primorja, smještenom u slavnoj riječkoj Guvernerovoj palači. Muzej će vam s mnogobrojnim vrijednim eksponatima najbolje ispričati priču o pomorstvu i brodogradnji na Kvarneru, od prapovijesti do suvremenog doba.

Srećonoša - riječki Morčić Potražite morčića u riječkim galerijama ili zlatarnama. Riječki suvenir, lik crne glave s bijelim turbanom, najčešće kao nakit, nekad su nosili su i sinovi jedinci, pomorci (po jednu u desnom uhu), te ribari kao zaštitu. Legenda o nastanku seže u 16. stoljeće kada su Riječani, navodno, pobijedili Turke na Grobničkome polju te kao uspomenu na taj podvig dali svojim ženama izraditi naušnice-morčiće. Ishodište za lik morčića je i Venecija koja je u 17. i 18. st. bila opsjednuta Orijentom pa su bogati patriciji imali crne sluge. U isto vrijeme u Rijeci nastaje njihova skromnija varijanta koja postaje dijelom tradicionalnog riječkog pučkog nakita. Vjeruje se da morčići donose sreću, stoga su idealan suvenir. O morčiću doznajte i u domu poznate riječke obitelji: Villi Ružić. U knjigu dojmova ove vile upisali su se Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, Alojzije Stepinac, Vanessa Redgrave, Stanley Kubrick... Vila na riječkim Pećinama čuva dio bogate ostavštine obitelji Mažuranić-Brlić-Ružić. Uz vrijednu zbirku knjiga, tu je i cijeli niz vrijednih eksponata poput prstena Smail-age Čengića.

Najljepši pogled i veza s bogom Na najstarijem dijelu Rijeke - Trsatu, dom je trsatskih franjevaca, mjesto koje već sedam stoljeća na stijeni iznad rijeke Rječine vjernicima, a i onima koji to nisu, pruža mir.

allegedly, beat the Ottomans on the Grobnik field and to remind themselves of that feat, they ordered Moretto earrings for their wives. The starting point for the character of Moretto is also Venice, which in the 17th and 18th century was obsessed with the Orient and so the wealthy patricians had black slaves. At the same time in Rijeka its more modest version was created which became part of Rijeka’s traditional public jewellery. It is believed that Morettos bring luck, so they are an ideal souvenir. You can discover something about the Moretto in the home of a well-known Rijeka family: Villa Ružić. In the guest book of this villa are the signatures of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, Alojzije Stepinac, Vanessa Redgrave, Stanley Kubrick ... the Villa, situated in Rijeka’s Pećine quarter keeps part of the rich inheritance of the Mažuranić-Brlić-Ružić families. Besides a valuable collection of books, there are also numerous valuable exhibits like the ring of Smail-aga Čengić.

The best view and relationship with god In the oldest quarter of Rijeka - Trsat, you can find the home of the Trsat Franciscans, a place which has been providing peace to believers and non-believers for seven centuries on the rock above the river Rječina. Trsat extends over the most beautiful Rijeka view on the Kvarner bay from the former medieval fortress on a high rock above the river Rječina. The view from that panoramic point extends to mountain Učka, the islands of Cres and Krk, until Velebit. Diligent walkers can even reach the prehistoric Trsat Castle by foot. At 135 meters above sea level they will pass, through


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Na visokoj stijeni iznad rijeke Rječine, s nekadašnje srednjovjekovne utvrde Trsata pruža se najljepši riječki pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev. Pogled s tog vidikovca doseže do Učke, otoka Cresa i Krka pa sve do Velebita. Do trsatske gradine čija povijest seže u prethistoriju, marljivi šetači mogu i pješice. Na 135 metara visine valja prijeći, kroz trijemove i kapele, preko 500 stepenica koje nose ime Petra Kružića, kraljevskoga kapetana koji ih je dao sagraditi. Trsat je mjesto privlačno hodočasnicima već više od sedam stoljeća. Svetište Majke božje trsatske najstarije je hrvatsko marijansko svetište koje godišnje posjete tisuće vjernika.

Legenda o nazaretskoj kućici Prema predaji, krajem 13. stoljeća su Marijinu kuću u nazaretu anđeli prenijeli na Jadran, na Trsat. O toj priči govori najveća slika u Svetištu. Vrijedno ulje na platnu slikara Christophora Tasce "Naviještenje i prijenos nazaretske kuće na Trsat", nalazi se na istaknutom mjestu, u triumfalnom luku bazilike. Gotovo 300 godina nakon što je naslikana i postavljena u svetište, nedavno je restaurirana pa se na njoj jasnije vidi 41 anđeo. Uz trsatsko svetište vezuju se još mnoge umjetničke vrijednosti, rukopisi, povelje, povijesne knjige i bogata riznica zavjetnih darova koji su, zahvaljujući brizi trsatskih franjevaca, očuvani tijekom burne povijesti Rijeke i Trsata. Mjesto je to obraćenja i odlučivanja, ali i krepkoga mira kojeg svi, barem u nekom razdoblju života, tražimo. Kao što su to u ovom gradu pronašli i mnogi građani koji su u Rijeku stigli sa svojim različitim kulturama i vjerama, osjetit ćete to i vi, dragi gosti. porches and chapels, over 500 steps that carry the name of Petar Kružić, the royal captain who ordered their construction. For more than 7 centuries, Trsat has been an attractive place for pilgrims. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest Croatian Marian sanctuary, and is visited annually by thousands of pilgrims.

The Legend of the small Nazareth’s house According to legend, at the end of 13th century, the angels transferred the house of Mary in Nazareth to the Adriatic, on Trsat. There is also a great painting depicting that story in the Sanctuary. A valuable oil on canvas by painter Christophor Tasco "Announcement and transfer of the Nazareth House to Trsat" is situated in a prominent place in the triumphal arch of the basilica. Almost 300 years after it was painted and placed in the sanctuary, it was recently restored so the 41 angels can be seen more clearly. Many other artistic treasures are linked with the Trsat sanctuary, such as manuscripts, charters, historical books and a rich treasury of votive gifts which, thanks to the care of Trsat Franciscans, have been preserved throughout the tumultuous history of Rijeka and Trsat. This is a place of proselytising and decision-making, but there is also a healthy peace that at least once in our lives we are all looking for. Furthermore many of those who arrive in Rijeka with their different cultures and religions have felt it, and you, dear guests, will also feel it.


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Intervju / Interview

Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich

Ivan Ljubičić


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Gem, set, meč. Kraj. Nakon 24 godine igranja i držanja teniskog reketa u ruci, Ivan Ljubičić je svom životnom pozivu rekao - dosta. I učinio je to u velikom stilu. Baš onako kako i priliči jednom od najvećih tenisača u hrvatskoj povijesti. Sedam stotina dvadeset i pet odigranih mečeva i četiri stotine dvadeset i devet pobjeda ono je što ostaje iza njega. Na relaciji Monte Carlo - Rijeka predahnuo je uz kavu i ispričao priču vrijednu divljenja. Do jučer ste bili jedan od najvećih, a danas ste već bivši tenisač. Čudan osjećaj? Navikavam se i s ponosom gledam na sve ono što sam napravio. Činjenica je da sam imao super karijeru. S njome se treba pomiriti i krenuti dalje. Sa trideset i tri se opraštam - nije niti naglo ni prerano. Što vas je tjeralo naprijed, koji vam je bio najveći motiv zbog kojeg ste igrali tenis? Rang lista, ona je ta koja me je stalno vukla, tražila nešto više od mene, to je bila moja najveća motivacija. Te brojke, kad vidite kako preskačete mjesta na rang listi, to je za jednog tenisača velika stvar i nešto prema čemu se svi mjerimo. Na što ste najviše ponosni u karijeri? Na četiri stvari sam najponosniji.Treće mjesto na rang listi 2006. godine, brončana medalja u paru sa Mariom Ančićem na OI u Ateni, naslov u Indian Wellsu 2010. i nezaboravni Davis Cup 2005. kad je Hrvatska postala najbolja na svijetu. U svojoj ste karijeri pobjeđivali najveće tenisače. Koju pobjedu posebno pamtite? Teško je reći, ali sve pobjede protiv Federera, Nadala, Đokovića i Murraya su mi podjednako drage. No najdraža je bila protiv Nadala u polufinalu Indian Wellsa, to nitko nije očekivao i zato je možda najveća. Onaj tko je želio tada osvojiti neki turnir morao je pobijediti najveće. Meni je to pošlo za rukom. Počeli ste igrati tenis sa devet godina. Zajedno s ocem sanjali ste jedno finale, došlo ih je dvadeset i četiri. Žalite li za pozicijom br. 1? Biti prvi u moje vrijeme bilo je gotovo nemoguće. Kad sam bio na vrhuncu svoje karijere Nadal i Federer su bili nedohvatljivi, danas su malo mekši, dohvatljiviji, kao što je to Đoković i pokazao. Finala koja sam gubio

Game, set and match. The end. After 24 years of playing and holding a tennis racket in his hand, Ivan Ljubičić said– that’s enough to his profession. And he has done it in great style. As befitting one of the greatest players in Croatian history. Seven hundred and twenty five matches have been played with four hundred and twenty nine wins and this is what he leaves behind. On route between Monte Carlo and Rijeka, he made a coffee break and told us a story worth admiring. Yesterday you were one of the greatest, and today you are already a former tennis player. Do you feel strange? I’m getting used to it and proudly looking back on everything I have achieved. I’ve had a great career. I can be happy with it and move forward. I’m saying goodbye at thirty three – it is not a sudden decision or one taken too soon. What was the thing that pushed you forward, what was the reason for you playing tennis? The ranking list, that was what constantly drew me, making me look for something more, it was my biggest motivation. Those numbers, you see as you skip places on the ranking list, it is an important thing for every player and something with which we all measure ourselves. What are you most proud of in your career? I am proud of four things. The third place on the ranking list in 2006, the bronze medal in the doubles with Mario Ančić at the Olympic Games in Athens, winning the title in Indian Wells in 2010 and the unforgettable Davis Cup win in 2005 when Croatia became the best in the world. During your career, you have won against some of the finest players. Which is the win you will especially remember? It is hard to say, but all wins against Federer, Nadal, Đoković and Murray are equally pleasant. But I care the most about the one against Nadal in the Indian Wells semi-finals. Although no one had expected it I won and that is why it is the most important. Anyone who wanted to win a tournament at that time, had to win the best ones. I managed it. You started to play tennis when you were nine years old. Together with your father you dreamt about a final, and there, you've been in twenty four of them. Do you regret the num. 1? It was almost impossible to be number one in my time. When I was at the top of my career, Nadal and Federer were the unreachable ones; today they are a bit softer, more reachable, as Đoković has proved. The finals I lost were those played against great players, and I could even have


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...Rijeka definitivno ima zapadnjački mentalitet. Otvorena je prema strancima i nikad se nisam osjećao strancem, pa ni kad je to bio slučaj... ...Rijeka is a city which definitely has a western mentality. It is open to foreigners and I have never felt like a foreigner here, not even when that was actually the case... bila su protiv velikih igrača, neka od njih sam možda mogao i dobiti, ali sad je to iza mene, nije bilo previše propusta. Put do zvijezda bio je trnovit, ali doslovno. Svatko ima svoj put. Iz Banja Luke sam otišao 1992. i došao u Opatiju kao izbjeglica. Iste godine sam upoznao suprugu. U Italiju sam otišao 1993. sam samcat, bez ikoga, bez poznavanja jezika. Imao sam samo četrnaest godina. Zadržao sam se tri godine u trening kampu blizu Torina i već 1996. sam se na godinu dana vratio u Hrvatsku. Potom sam otišao u Monte Carlo trenirati s Riccardom Piattijem. Svaka od tih stepenica je bila bitna, jer da njih nije bilo ne bi bilo ni moje karijere. Prvi osvojeni honorar na turniru vrijedio je 1500 njemačkih maraka. Što ste učinili s njima? Bio sam ponosan što mogu taj novac dati roditeljima, a oni su mi za nagradu kupili zlatni lančić. Nažalost više ne znam gdje je, ali bila je to velika stvar za nas. Tada nisam bio ni blizu vrhu, ali sam na sveopće iznenađenje osvojio taj turnir. Ako se ne varam, postoji jedna anegdota vezana uz osvajanje prvog turnira. Da, istina. Njega sam osvojio sa 4 prsta! Naime imao sam bolnu zanokticu koju nisam znao riješiti. Međutim, bila mi je to škola za kasnije da svaki, pa i najmanji problem rješavam na vrijeme kako ne bi eskalirao u nešto veće. Ubrzo nakon toga slijede teške godine. Pobjegli ste iz ratom zahvaćene Bosne i Hercegovine. Kako ste proživljavali izbjeglištvo? U tom trenutku ideja je bila otići negdje 2-3 mjeseca. Ispočetka nije bilo tako traumatično, završili smo u Opatiji. Kupali smo se više no ikada, početak je bio relativno jednostavan, samo nam je nedostajao otac. Što je vrijeme više prolazilo, bilo je teže. Izbacili su nas iz izbjegličkog hotela u Opatiji, nije bilo mjesta za nas,

won some of them, but that is behind me now, there were not a lot of failures. The road to the stars was literally thorny. Everyone has his own path. I left Banja Luka in 1992 and came to Opatija as a refugee. In the same year I met my wife. I went to Italy in 1993 completely on my own, without having anyone close by and without knowing the language. I was fourteen years old. I stayed there for three years in a training camp close to Turin and in 1996 I came back to Croatia for a year. Then I went to Monte Carlo to train with Riccardo Piatti. Each of those steps was important and if it wasn’t for those steps, I wouldn’t have my career either. The first prize money won at a tournament amounted to 1,500 German Marks. What did you do with that money? I was proud to be able to give the money to my parents and as a reward they bought me a gold necklace. Unfortunately, I don’t know where it is now, but it was a huge thing for us. At that time I was not even close to the top, but to everyone's surprise I won that tournament. Unless I'm mistaken, there is an anecdote linked to the winning of the first tournament. Yes, it is true. I won it with 4 fingers! I had a problem with a nail which I did not know how to treat. However, that has been an education for later events as even the smallest problems should be solved in time so as not to cause bigger problems later. Soon after that followed some difficult years. You ran away from the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina. How did you spend the refugee period? At that time, the idea was to go somewhere for 2-3 months. At first it was not that traumatic, we ended up in Opatija. We bathed more than ever, the start was relatively simple, the only one we missed was our father. As time passed, things started to become difficult. They threw us out of the refugee hotel in Opatija, there was no place for us, we didn’t have any money and we had to find accommodation. Panic started to appear and we solved it by selling our house and our land in Banja Luka and getting a small apartment in Rijeka. Our father joined us too and we continued to live a mainly normal life. What was your knowledge of Rijeka when you came here? I didn't know much about Rijeka and I had never been to the city before that. I found out where we were going just a few days before our departure and in spite of the escape and the unfortunate circumstances, I liked the city from the first moment. What was your arrival in Rijeka like and what were your first impressions of it? Regardless of the fact we were refugees, my brother and I were positively excited by the fact we are heading to the seaside. At the time we did not understand the seriousness of the situation in which we found ourselves. And I remember the incredibly large number of boats anchored in front of the city.


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novca nismo imali a morali smo naći smještaj. Počela je panika koju smo riješili tako što smo kuću i zemljište u Banja Luci zamijenili za jedan mali stančić u Rijeci. Pridružio nam se i otac pa smo nastavili donekle normalan život. Koliko ste znali o Rijeci kad ste dolazili? O Rijeci nisam puno znao i nikad prije toga u Rijeci nisam bio. Saznao sam gdje idemo nekoliko dana prije odlaska i usprkos tom bijegu i nesretnim okolnostima, Rijeka me osvojila na prvu. Dolazak u Rijeku i prvi dojmovi Bez obzira na činjenicu da smo bili izbjeglice, brat i ja smo bili pozitivno uzbuđeni da idemo na more. Tada još nismo shvaćali ozbiljnost situacije u kojoj smo se našli. I sjećam se nevjerojatno velike količine brodova koji su bili usidreni ispred grada.

When someone mentions Rijeka to you, what are the memories linked to it? It is the city where I found my family. I think that is enough. Rijeka is a special city, not only for me, but for others who come here too. It has a special kind of vibration. I spent lots of time in Rijeka on tennis courts in Marčeljeva draga where I trained and I was also a member of the Kvarner Tennis Club. And I continue repeating – the tennis courts in Marčeljeva draga are unique. It is an excellent place to play tennis. From the clay courts you can see the whole of Kvarner. The thing that makes Marčeljeva draga so special is the tennis with a view. Numerous players and tennis enthusiasts always willingly come back to the courts in Marčeljeva draga as do I. You have travelled the whole world. Which was the place that particularly impressed you? I found Dubai the most thrilling, especially the places people have managed


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Kad vam se danas spomene Rijeka kakve vas uspomene vežu uz nju? To je grad koji mi je podario obitelj. Mislim da je to dovoljno reci. Rijeka je poseban grad, ne samo meni već i ostalima koji u njega dođu. Ima neku posebnu pozitivnu vibru. Mnogo sam vremena u Rijeci provodio na teniskim terenima u Marčeljevoj dragi gdje sam trenirao, ali i bio član Teniskog kluba Kvarner. I uvijek ponavljam - teniski tereni u Marčeljevoj dragi su neponovljivi. To je izvanredno mjesto za igranje tenisa. Sa zemljanih terena vidi se gotovo cijeli Kvarner. Ono što Marčeljevu dragu čini jedinstvenom je tenis sa pogledom. Mnogi tenisači i teniski zaljubljenici uvijek se rado vraćaju na terene u Marčeljevoj dragi pa tako i ja. Proputovali ste cijeli svijet. Koje vas je svjetsko mjesto posebno  impresionirao? Meni je Dubai najfascinantniji, što su ljudi uspjeli izgraditi u

to build in the last decade. I like London and New York too; however Dubai is a miracle of human intervention. Rijeka compared countries?

to

western

Rijeka is a city which definitely has a western mentality. It is open to foreigners and I have never felt like a foreigner here, not even when that was actually the case. What do you like most about Rijeka, where do you like to go out, where do you like taking a stroll… My favourite parts of the city are Trsat, the Korzo and Kantrida. When I'm at home, I don’t usually go out, and if I take a walk with my family it is usually in those parts of the town. I imagine the birth of your children is the greatest moment of your life? The birth of my first child was the most emotional moment of my life. I cried. The moment of the birth itself and the new life are emotional, but after that


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posljednjem desetljeću. I London i New York su lijepi, ali Dubai je čudo ljudske ruke. Usporedba Rijeke u odnosu na zapad? Rijeka definitivno ima zapadnjački mentalitet. Otvorena je prema strancima i nikad se nisam osjećao strancem, pa ni kad je to bio slučaj. Što najviše volite u Rijeci, gdje volite izaći, prošetati.... Trsat, Korzo i Kantrida su mi najdraži dijelovi grada. Inače ne izlazim kad sam kući, no ako i prošećem s obitelji onda je to svakako u tim dijelovima grada. Rođenje djece, možda i najveći trenutak vašeg života? Rođenje prvog djeteta mi je bio najemotivniji trenutak u životu. Plakao sam. Sam trenutak rađanja i novog života su emocionalni, no nakon rođenja slijedi stres odrastanja, pogotovo kod prvog gdje si sav prestrašen, sve organiziraš. Kod drugog je sve jednostavnije. Zara i Leonardo su velika djeca, nemaju na koga biti mala (ha, ha), uživamo s njima maksimalno.

...Trsat, Korzo i Kantrida su mi najdraži dijelovi grada. Inače ne izlazim kad sam kući, no ako i prošećem s obitelji onda je to svakako u tim dijelovima grada... ...my favourite parts of the city are Trsat, the Korzo and Kantrida. When I'm at home, I don’t usually go out, and if I take a walk with my family it is usually in those parts of the town... follows the stress of growing up, especially with your first child when you are scared, much too organized. With the second child everything is simpler. Zara and Leonardo are big children, they do not have the genes to be small (ha, ha), we enjoy them enormously.

Nastavak obiteljske tradicije u tenisu?

Continuation of the family tradition in tennis?

Za sada Leonardo ne pokazuje neke znakove i želje ali tko zna, neću im govoriti što i kako, sami će odlučiti što žele. Supruga i ja ćemo im pokušati pomoći koliko to bude moguće. Leonardo pokazuje lijepe atletske sposobnosti tako da vjerujem da će se baviti nekim sportom

For now, Leonardo does not show any signs or desires, but who knows, I will not tell them what and how to do it, they will decide on their own what they want to do. My wife and I will try to help them as much as possible. Leonardo shows some nice athletic skills so I believe he will do some form of sport.

Prepoznaju li vas ljudi na ulici?

Do people recognize you on the street?

Da, čak me to i iznenađuje. Pogotovo u posljednje tri godine. Na Sejšelima su me na odmoru prepoznala djeca i bilo mi je baš ''vau''. Vikali su tenis Ljubičić, shvatio sam tada da sam svjetski poznat. Ali ne zavidim Cristianu Ronaldu, on nema život, ograničava te ta popularnost ne možeš sjesti na miru ni popiti kavu, ali to je cijena slave

Yes, and that is what surprises me too. Especially in the last three years. In the Seychelles I was recognized by some children and I really felt “wow”. They were yelling “tennis Ljubičić” and that is when I realized I was famous in the world. But I'm not jealous of Cristiano Ronaldo, he doesn’t have a life, fame limits you and you aren’t able to sit in peace and have a coffee, but that is the price of glory.

Niste baš „uživali“ u noćnom životu, ili?

You haven’t really “enjoyed” a night life as such, or have you?

Mi tenisači baš i ne izlazimo. Sami smo svoje gazde i kad bi se odlučili za takav način života, sami bismo sebi pucali u nogu jer ako bi dan nakon izlaska morali odigrati meč i izgubili ga, značilo bi da smo sami sebi uzeli novac iz ruku. Nemamo ugovore koji nam jamče novce pa su u tom pogledu individualni sportaši puno odgovorniji od onih u momčadskim sportovima.

Tennis players do not go out that much. We are our own bosses and if we decided on that kind of life, it would be like shooting ourselves. If we had to play a match after a night out and we lost it, it would mean losing money from our own pockets. We do not have contracts guaranteeing us money and with this in mind, individual athletes are much more responsible from those playing in teams.

Pratite li ostale sportove?

Do you follow other sports?

Naravno, veliki sam sportski frik. Pratim sve. Nogomet, košarku, rukomet, pa čak i kriket.

Of course, I'm a big sports freak. I follow everything. Soccer, basketball, handball and even cricket.

Kako se opuštate?

How do you relax?

Prvi put u životu uživat ću u ljepotama Jadrana. Pitanje je hoću li u sljedećih 20 godina to moći napraviti, jer nešto ću ipak morati raditi.

For the first time in my life I will be able to enjoy the beauties of the Adriatic. It is a question I will only be able to answer in the next 20 years as, in any case, I will have to do something eventually.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić

Grafiti, umjetnička djela, crteži koji odišu pozitivnom energijom i urbanim duhom osvajaju grad

Graffiti, works of art and drawings that emit a positive energy and urban spirit have been conquering the city

Veseli

zidovi riječki

Cheerful Rijeka’s Walls


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Zahvaljujući zidovima, Rijeka postaje sve veseliji grad. I to, što je najbolje, onim velikim, praznim do jučer sivim zidovima, koji su možda mislili da će takvi ostati dovijeka. Ti isti zidovi danas pršte od boja, dinamike, radosti. Kako je to moguće? Lako. Samo dajte priliku umjetnicima… Čini se da je prvu loptu te vrste zakotrljao glasoviti riječki slikar Vojo Radoičić. Gradski nestor kista, u godinama koje već same po sebi prizivaju poštovanje, a iz čijeg atelijera ne prestaju izlaziti radovi za koje bi se reklo da ih je naslikao kakav nesputan mladac, Radoičić je svoju mediteransku zaigranost krajem prošle godine prenio na pročelje visoke kuće u Ulici Janeza Trdine 5. Ne bi bilo krivo reći i na Pavlinskom trgu, s obzirom da oslikano pročelje gleda na jedan od omiljenih trgova u samom gradskom središtu. Dok ispijaju kavu i čavrljaju za nekim od ugostiteljskih stolova, posjetiteljima trga u vidokrug ulazi povelik, bojama napučen sredozemni ambijent s Vojinim potpisom. Tko imalo poznaje Radoičićevo slikarstvo, zna i to da je zidna slika u Janeza Trdine drukčija od onoga na što nas je slikar navikao. Ona je bez prepoznatljivih mediteranskih kućica i njihovih šarmantnih stanara. Radoičićev mediteranski ambijent je ovaj put protkan manje očekivanom, apstraktnom notom. Prizor se planira upotpuniti njegovom instalacijom u obliku oslikanog broda. Dovoljan je pogled i sve je jasno – riječki Stari grad s Radoičićem i bez njega nije isti. Objašnjenje? Taj smo dio grada oduvijek voljeli, unatoč svemu onome što su godine donijele njegovu licu, a sada ga volimo još više. Sličnim vodama zaplovili su nešto mlađi gradski poklonici lijepih vizualnih intervencija u urbani prostor. Naravno, čineći to na svoj način. Umjesto kista ili valjka, u njihovim se rukama našao grafiterski sprej. Razlog zbog kojeg je grafit posvećen Loligu valja potražiti u podatku da je Loligo prvi svjetski batiskaf projektiran u riječkoj tvornici Whitehead i izgrađen 1915. u riječkom brodogradilištu koje danas nosi ime 3. maj. Batiskaf je mala podmornica projektirana i opremljena za znanstvena istraživanja, dakle ploveći laboratorij za podvodna promatranja i snimanja, uključujući prikupljanje uzoraka morske flore i faune. Da, istina je: čuveni Jacques Cousteau je u nakani da zaroni u morske dubine imao riječke prethodnike…

Thanks to its walls, Rijeka is becoming a more cheerful city. And what is best, it is thanks to those large, empty and, until yesterday, grey walls, which thought they would remain the same forever. These same walls are today full of colour, dynamism and joy. How is that possible? Easily. Just give the artists a chance… It would appear that the pioneer of this kind of art is the famous Rijeka painter, Vojo Radoičić. The city master of the brush, old enough to be respected for his years, and from whose atelier works of art have continued to emerge and for which many might say have been painted by some unrestrained young man. Radoičić transferred his Mediterranean fascination at the end of the last year to the façade of the high house in Janeza Trdine Street No 5. It would not be incorrect to talk about Pavlinski Square too as its painted façade faces one of the most popular squares in the city centre itself. Whilst having coffee and chatting around a table, visitors of the square can see a pretty large presentation of the Mediterranean environment, full of colour and carrying Vojo’s signature. Those who know something about Radoičić’s painting, know that this wall painting in Janeza Trdine Street is different from what we are used to when seeing his works of art. There are none of his small recognizable Mediterranean houses or their charming inhabitants. Radoičić’s Mediterranean environment has here been filled with a less expected, abstract note. It is planned to complete the view with Radoičić's installation in the form of a painted boat. One look is enough and everything becomes clear – Rijeka’s Old Town with Radoičić and without him is not the same. Is there an explanation? We always liked this part of the city, in spite of everything the years have given to its unique appearance, but now we like it even more. A few younger city enthusiasts of beautiful visual interventions have sailed on similar waters, transforming their works into the urban space. Of course, doing it in their own way. Instead of brush and roller, they used graffiti spray paint. The reason this graffiti was dedicated to Loligo lies in the fact that it was the first bathyscaphe in the world to be


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designed at Rijeka’s Whitehead factory and constructed in 1915 in Rijeka’s shipyard now known under the name of 3.maj (3rd May). The bathyscaphe is a small submarine designed and equipped for scientific research, that is, a kind of floating laboratory for underwater observation and registration, including the gathering of samples of sea flora and fauna. Yes, it is true: the famous Jacques Cousteau, in his intention to dive into the blue sea, had forerunners in Rijeka…

Više nego dobre reakcije sugrađana na rad u lučici Kantrida ohrabrile su članove grupe Riječka enciklopedija da se prihvate još jednog vizualnog projekta. Kao što je to bio slučaj s Loligom, oni su se iznova potrudili novčanim donacijama za materijal, a grafiteri se prihvatili posla bez naknade. U ožujku ove godine, u gradskom se središtu pojavio novi grafit. U susjedstvu Upravne zgrade Luke Rijeka, na pročelju dugog, sivog betonskog bunkera iz Drugoga svjetskog

The more than positive reactions of fellow-citizens with regard to the work of art that appeared in Kantrida harbour encouraged members of the Riječka enciklopedija group to start another visual project. As was the case with Loligo, once again they devoted their energy and money for the materials, whilst graffiti writers accepted the job without asking for compensation. In March this year, a new graffiti art work appeared in the city centre. In the neighbourhood of the Port of Rijeka Administration Building, on the façade of the long, grey concrete bunker dating back to the Second World War, a wall painting appeared dedicated to an unusual trip made by one of Croatia’s famous sculptures. Each trip begins in a


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Loligo Prvu praznu plohu koju su odlučili učiniti živahnijom pronašli su u lučici Športsko-ribolovnog društva Kantrida. I, primjereno mjestu, odlučili – zaroniti. Rezultat se također pojavio pred očima sugrađana potkraj prošle godine i imao je oblik podmornice. Zidna slika što je autorski potpisuje Eduardo Filipović Sec doveo je u lučicu riječku podmornicu Loligo. Oslikavanje zidova prizorima i likovima iz manje poznate gradske prošlosti razvilo se kao projekt „Refaj se“ (na čakavskom dijalektu: oporavi se, vrati dugove). Pokrenula ga je facebook grupa Riječka enciklopedija Fluminensia, koja s ciljem promoviranja gradske kulturne baštine okuplja 4.800 članova. rata, osvanula je zidna slika posvećena neobičnom putovanju jedne glasovite hrvatske skulpture. Svako putovanje počinje u luci, a – ako je u pitanju važno putovanje – nekako se samo po sebi čini logičnim da počinje u riječkoj luci… Mladi riječki umjetnik Edi Gustin Mask iskoristio je trokutasto pročelje da bi naslikao trenutak ukrcavanja na prekooceanski brod skulpture Antuna Augustinčića, Vjesnica mira. Brod je isplovio 1954. prema New Yorku, točnije prema sjedištu Ujedinjenih naroda, gdje je postavljen pred samu zgradu te organizacije, s porukom kojoj je svako objašnjenje suvišno. Riječka je luka tim potezom postala ljepša, poput lučice Kantrida i poput Pavlinskoga trga. Šutljivi riječki zidovi na tim su gradskim lokacijama progovorili toliko dobro da je samo pitanje kada će za njihovim primjerom krenuti još neki dugogodišnji gradski šutljivci te vrste. Treći grafit prikazuje Peru Radakovića, legendu riječkog nogometa, koji se pojavljuje na zidu nove atletske dvorane kraj stadiona Kantrida.

Loligo They found the first blank surface which they decided to make more cheerful in the small harbour of the Kantrida Sport and Fishing Society. And, in keeping with the place itself, they decided to – dive. The result was also apparent in the eyes of their fellow-citizens at the end of last year in the shape of a submarine. The wall painting, signed by Eduardo Filipović Sec, brought the Loligo submarine into the harbour. The walls painted with scenes and characters from the city’s lesser known past was developed as "Refaj se" (in the Chakavian dialect meaning get well, pay your debts) project. It was initiated by the Riječka enciklopedija Fluminensia Facebook group which promotes the city’s cultural heritage and boasts 4,800 members. port, and - if it’s an important journey – it is logical that the departure will take place in the Port of Rijeka… A young Rijeka artist, Edi Gustin Mask used the triangle-like façade to paint the moment of the Antun Augustinčić’s sculpture Peace Messenger embarkation on the ocean-going ship. The ship cast off in 1954 heading to New York, and more precisely, to the United Nations Centre. It was set up in front of the building of the organisation with a message which does not need any further explanation. With this move, the Port of Rijeka became more beautiful too, likewise the Kantrida harbour and Pavlinski Square. Rijeka’s silent walls spoke to these city locations in such a pleasant way that was only a matter of time before they would be followed in the same way by another age-long city unspeakable parts. The third graffiti shows Pero Radaković, the Rijeka's football legend which appears on the wall of the new athletics hall, near Kantrida stadium.


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Novi grad / New city

Fotografije i tekst / Photos and text: Danijel Frka

Kvarnerski podvodni muzej

potopljenih brodova Kvarner’s underwater museum of sunken ships


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ELHAWI STAR Motorni trgovački brod iz Saudijske Arabije, potonuo 12.10.1982. godine ispred luke Baroš. Olupina leži na boku na dubini od 43 metra. Od prije nekoliko godina postao je vrlo popularna ronilačka destinacija. Motor merchant boat from Saudi Arabia, which sank on 12th October 1982 in front of the Port of Baroš. The wreck lies on its side, at a depth of 43 metres. Several years ago it became a very famous diving destination.


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LINA Teretni parobrod, izgrađen 1879. godine u Newcastle on Tyne, Velika Britanija za kompaniju Granata iz Barija. U nevremenu udario 14. siječnja 1914. u obalu kod rta Pecenj na Cresu i potonuo. Leži uspravno na dubini od 25-55 metara. Vrlo popularna ronilačka destinacija. A cargo steam boat constructed in 1879 in Newcastle on Tyne, Great Britain for the Granata Company from Bari. On 14th January 1914, during bad weather, it hit the coast close to the Pecenj Cape on the island of Cres and sank. It lies vertically at a depth of 25-55 metres. It is considered a very famous diving destination.

Hrvatsko podmorje skriva više od 85 registriranih i opisanih ronilačkih destinacija koje ljubiteljima ovog ekstremnog sporta omogućuje istraživanje antičkih jedrenjaka i koraljnih livada na okomitim podvodnim zidovima, posjet morskim špiljama i olupinama ratnih brodova nastanjenih ribljim jatima. Jedna od takvih destinacija je i kvarnerski zaljev sa riječkom lukom u njegovom sjevernom dijelu koji je stoljećima bio pomorski put i prostor kojim su plovili brodovi najrazličitijih trgovačkih i ratnih mornarica svijeta. A, kako se plovilo tako se, nažalost, i tonulo - zbog nevremena, greške u navigaciji, sudara, ratnih djelovanja i nekih drugih razloga, toliko da Kvarnersko

The Kvarner Bay, on which northern part is located the Port of Rijeka, has for centuries been a maritime route and an area through which various world trade and war ships have sailed. During past millenniums, due to bad weather, errors in navigation, accidents, wars and other causes, a large number of boats suffered misfortunes on the wider Kvarner area. Until recently, authorized state institutions paid special attention to the search, research and protection of ancient ships. Their locations and remains were researched in 1960s and 1970s and their cargo – amphorae, completed collections in the Rijeka Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral as well


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podmorje uistinu ima neprocjenjivo blago u skrivenom podvodnom muzeju. Stoga, kao i u sve druge, nekim ćemo činjenicama tek odškrinuti njegova vrata i pozvati vas da zaronite u čaroban svijet morskih dubina. Ove ranjene čelične nemani koje nepomično leže na morskom dnu nijemi su svjedoci jezive sudbine brojnih pomoraca, vojnika, ali i drama slučajnih putnika koje su već ispričane ili tek trebaju biti. One su vrijedna kulturno-povijesna baština ovih prostora i imaju znatan turistički potencijal. Lokacije antičkih brodova, među kojima i one u luci Omišalj, kod otoka Sv. Marko, u lučici Povile te nešto dalje, kod Ilovika, kao i ostaci olupina brodova na ovom području istraživani

in the other museums. Unfortunately, these antique shipwrecks were only researched after the alarm was given with regard to the site devastation, so that hydro-archaeologists in the area did not have the chance to research untouched ancient ships. The locations of these ancient ships for which research, in that period, was organized by the Regional Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments lead by the late Dr. Radmila Matejčić, were in the port of Omišalj, close to the island of St Marko, in the Povile harbour and further ahead, close to Ilovik. The newer boats – sailing boats, steamships and all kinds of war ships have not been systematically researched. It was probably

VIS teretni parobrod, sagrađen 1921. godine u Port Glasgowu, Velika Britanija. Pripadao kompaniji Oceanija sa Sušaka. Potonuo 13. veljače 1946.godine nailaskom na minu oko 400 m istočno od rta Mašnjak kod ulaza u Plominski kanal. Leži uspravno na dubini od 60 metara. Jedna je od najljepših olupina Kvarnera i Kvarnerića. A cargo steamboat, built in 1921 in the Port of Glasgow, Great Britain. It was owned by the Oceanija Company from Sušak. It sunk on 13th February 1946 striking a mine some 400 m east of the Mašnjak Cape, at the entrance to the Plomin Channel. It lies vertically at a depth of 60 metres. It is one of the most beautiful wrecks in Kvarner and Kvarnerić.


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su šezdesetih i sedamdesetih godina 20. stoljeća, a njihov najčešći teret – amfore, popunile su muzejske zbirke Pomorskog i povijesnog muzeja u Rijeci i nekih drugih muzeja. To pak nije bio slučaj i sa novovjekim brodovima poput jedrenjaka, parobroda i raznih vrsta ratnih brodova koji nisu sustavno istraživani. No, sve se promijenilo polovicom osamdesetih godina 20. st. kada je sportsko ronjenje u svijetu, a potom i u Hrvatskoj preraslo granice sportskih klubova, postavši jednom od glavnih odrednica nautičkog turizma. Usavršavanje ronilačke tehnike i medicine ronjenja, dostupnost plinskih mješavina i novi laki ronilački aparati, pridonijeli su da se granica rekreativnog i istraživačkog ronjenja pomakla do 80 metara, pa i dublje. Za istaknuti

ELHAWI STAR

je da se u Jadranu nalazi nekoliko stotina evidentiranih olupina, ali točan broj nikada neće biti poznat. Za dvadesetak novovjekovnih olupina lokacije još nisu utvrđene. Olupine u hrvatskom dijelu Jadrana uglavnom su u boljem stanju od ostalih u europskim vodama, a po važnosti imamo i one koje se čak mogu smatrati svjetskom baštinom. Tako je danas sve više onih koji žele zaviriti u kvarnerski podvodni svijet i neka prošla vremena koja imaju određeni povijesni i kulturni značaj. Upravo ti potopljeni brodovi danas su prvorazredna podvodna atrakcija za turiste – ronioce kojima treba omogućiti da nesmetano posjećuju naš podvodni muzej, ali i da iz njega, kao i iz muzeja nad vodom, ne odnesu ništa osim podvodnih fotografija i video-zapisa.

considered that their historical importance was much less important than of that of the ancient ships, and the Kvarner Bay’s depths of over fifty metres has protected them well from sport divers who were not well-equipped enough to dive to greater depths. However, in the mid-1980s, things completely changed. Sport diving in the world and in our areas in particular, overcame the confines of sports clubs and became one of the main settings for nautical tourism. The improvement of diving techniques and diving treatment, the availability of gas mixtures and new, easier diving devices have contributed to the fact that the limit of recreational and research diving has moved to deeper depths, up to 80 and more metres. Excellently equipped enthusiast crews have begun to sail around the Adriatic Sea – amateur researchers who, well supplied with archive data, have begun to search the sunken new age boats. Until recently, the depth kept these boats from devastation, but with the appearance of the aforesaid crews, depth no longer represents a problem. Bells, compasses and other "trophies" have been taken from those boats and have ended up in foreign private collections or have been sold at auction. That is how numerous wrecks in the Kvarner area were pillaged before the official organs actually knew what was happening, and their reaction was slow too. However, it should be admitted that nowadays they are trying to protect their shipwrecks as they characterize days gone by and have a certain historical and cultural importance. As well as this, today they represent a first class underwater attraction for tourists – divers for whom we can provide an undisturbed visit to our underwater museum and to take from it, and from the museum above water, nothing more than underwater photographs and video registrations. In order to understand which underwater treasures we are talking about, we will list the wrecks we know exist and for which we have data and those which in future will be taken care of. As, sooner or later those wrecks whose location is still unknown will be found eventually and it is important to evaluate their historical and cultural importance in time and, if necessary, protect them.


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SIGRID Motorni brod izgrađen 1956. u Njemačkoj, ciparske zastave. Potonuo 15.01.1977.za jakog juga ispred riječke luke, neposredno uz lukobran. Djelomice izrezan. Popularna ronilačka destinacija. Motor boat built in 1956 in Germany; it sailed under the Cyprus flag. It sank on 15th January 1977 by the breakwater during strong southern sirocco winds. It is partly cut. It is considered a very famous diving destination.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža

Gotovo svaka obitelj koja potječe iz ovih krajeva u obiteljskom nasljeđu posjeduje broš, naušnice, privjesak... Almost every family originating from these parts has, as part of their inheritance a brooch, earrings, a pendant...

Morčić

riječki srećonoša Morčić – Rijeka’s good luck charm


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Ono što u Kini predstavljaju novčići na crvenoj vrpci, slon s podignutom surlom ili u Indiji nasmijani Budha, u Rijeci predstavlja crnac s bijelim turbanom koji je zbog omiljenosti u svim društvenim slojevima prihvaćen kao riječki suvenir. Jedan je to od najprepoznatljivijih simbola ovoga grada, mnogih djelatnosti i događanja, a posebice Međunarodnoga riječkog karnevala, čija je maskota i zaštitni znak i službeno od 1991. godine. Morčić je vrsta originalnog nakita Rijeke, Kvarnera i hrvatskoga Primorja, najzastupljeniji u obliku naušnica, a osim estetske i ukrasne namjene, označava i privrženost tim krajevima. Naušnice s poprsjem crnog čovjeka s turbanom i danas nosi više od 70% žena toga podneblja, neovisno o društvenom statusu i nacionalnoj pripadnosti multietničke Rijeke koja broji čak 22 nacionalne manjine. Upravo u toj šarolikosti i spoju kultura najveća je vrijednost grada koji će prigrliti svakoga tko se u njemu poželi skrasiti, kao i putnika namjernika, pa i onoga u potrazi za srećom koja se nedvojbeno nikakvim novcem ne može kupiti. Ipak, složit ćete se, nitko nema baš sve što mu treba, a pritom ne mislimo na materijalno, nego prije svega duhovno zadovoljstvo. Naš Nobelovac Ivo Andrić zapisao je "da je čudno kako nam je malo potrebno da bi bili sretni, te da je još čudnije što nam upravo to malo nedostaje". Možda ćeš upravo to "malo", dragi čitatelju, pronaći u riječkom morčiću, jer on je naš srećonoša.

Stigao je iz legende Osim što se iz njega iščitava riječka povijest i tradicija naših predaka i vještih zlatarskih ruku, to je simbol koji širi pozitivnu energiju, jer u sebi nosi optimizam da nam upravo njegova blizina jamči ostvarenje želja, spokoj, zaštitu od neprijatelja i svih zlih sila. Naušnicu s morčićem nekoć su nosili i muškarci, posebice ribari i njihovi sinovi jedinci, a u uhu pripadnika muškog spola ni danas nisu rijetkost, kao ni broševi, narukvice, prstenje i pribadače morčića u riznicama svake starije riječke gradske obitelji. Zbog atraktivnosti i povijesnog značaja morčić je postigao i zavidnu svjetsku slavu dobivši i turistički letak koji važnost ovog popularnog simbola opisuje na čak 30 jezika. O nastanku morčića ispričane su brojne priče, spjevane narodne pjesme i legende, među kojima su dvije najpoznatije. Prvu, legendu o Zrinskom, opisala je poznata riječka arheologinja i povjesničarka umjetnosti Radmila Matejčić. Datira iz 16. st. kad su se Turci utaborili na Grobničkom polju, prijeteći napadom na Rijeku. Plemeniti Zrinski je s Gradine kod Jelenja odapeo strelicu koja je pogodila turskog pašu u sljepoočnicu, nakon čega se vojska razbježala. Svo vrijeme te opsade Riječani su, navodi Matejčić, podizali oči k nebu i molili da kamenje s neba

What in China is represented by a coin on a red ribbon; an elephant with its trunk raised or, in India, a smiling Buddha, in Rijeka it is an Afro-American man with a white turban and thanks to its popularity amongst all social classes, it has been accepted as a Rijeka souvenir. It is one of the most recognizable symbols of this city, of numerous activities and events, and especially of the International Rijeka Carnival for which it has formally been the symbol and mascot since 1991. Morčić is a piece of original jewellery from Rijeka, Kvarner and the Croatian Coast, mostly present in the form of earrings. Besides its aesthetic and decorative purpose, it also marks loyalty to these areas. Earrings with the bust of an Afro-American man wearing a turban are today worn by 70% of women from the area; regardless their social status and the nationality of multiethnic Rijeka which counts up to 22 national minorities amongst its population. It is precisely in this wide variety and bond of cultures, that the largest significance of the city can be found which will embrace anyone searching for a place to live, as well as the chance traveller and anyone looking for luck that, without doubt, no money can buy. However, you will agree that nobody has everything he needs, not in the sense of material things, but in particular, spiritual pleasure. Our Nobel winner, Ivo Andrić, once wrote that "it is strange how little we need to be happy, and it is even stranger that it is precisely this little thing we always miss". Dear reader, maybe you will find this missing "little thing" in Rijeka's Morčić as he is our good luck charm.

He appeared from a legend Besides being written in the history and tradition of our ancestors and the skilful goldsmith’s hands, it is also a symbol spreading positive energy as it brings optimism and it is precisely his closeness that guarantees our wishes coming true, our serenity, protection from our enemies and from all evil forces. The Morčić earring was once worn by men too, especially fishermen and their only sons. It is not odd to see it in a man’s ear today nor is it abnormal to find brooches, bracelets, rings and pins in the treasure boxes of every older Rijeka family. Due to its attractiveness and historical importance, the Morčić has achieved enviable world fame acquiring a tourist flyer that describes the importance of this famous symbol in 30 languages. Numerous stories have been told about the Morčić’s origins, numerous popular songs and legends have been sung amongst which there are two of the most famous ones. The first one is the legend of Zrinski described by the famous Rijeka archaeologist and art historian, Radmila Matejčić. It dates back to 16th century when the Ottomans set


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pobije Turke. Upravo to se i dogodilo uslijed njihova bijega, zatrpavši Turke do vrata. Tako su na polju ostali samo njihovi turbani. Kao uspomenu na taj događaj Riječani su svojim ženama stavili naušnice u obliku glave pokrivene turbanom. Druga legenda koja potječe s Pelješca govori da je jedna talijanska kontesa imala crnu sluškinju koju je jako voljela. Darovala joj je slobodu, a kao uspomenu na nju dala je izraditi naušnice s njenim likom. Na nastanak morčića velik je utjecaj imala i Venecija, jer je u 17. i 18. stoljeću bila opsjednuta Orijentom, pa je tako uz orijentalne začine, mirise, tkaninu, odjeću i nakit, u odaje bogatih venecijanskih patricija uvela paževe i sluge - crnce u orijentalnoj odjeći. To je potaknulo mnoge venecijanske zlatare da počnu izrađivati ukrasne igle u obliku crnca s turbanom, zlatnog poprsja, bogato ukrašenog dragim kamenjem, prozvanog "moretto".

Iz ruku iskusnih majstora U isto vrijeme u Rijeci nastaje morčić, kao skromnija verzija "venecijanskog moretta". Zbog specifičnog izgleda, majstorske izrade te prihvatljive cijene, morčić postaje dio tradicionalnog ženskog pučkog nakita, ponajprije Riječanki. Posljednji moretist, Raul Rolandi, u Rijeci je živio do kraja 1940-ih godina, a upravo zahvaljujući modelima i nacrtima iz njegove radionice, otkupljenima za kulturno-povijesnu zbirku Pomorskog i povijesnog muzeja Hrvatskog primorja u Rijeci, poznat je način izrade morčića. Model za kostur morčića radi se u pozitivu koji se pak otisne u sipinu kost, pa se tako dobije negativ u koji se lijeva otopljeno zlato. Kad se ono stvrdne, dobiva se zlatni pozitiv čija se površina izdubi turpijama i noževima kako bi se na njega mogao nanijeti emajl, usitnjen u finu prašinu. Taj se prah stavlja u dušičnu kiselinu u kojoj stoji oko dva sata, a zatim se ispire i osuši. Na komadu stakla emajl se pomiješa s malo vode i ta se smjesa iglom nanosi na zlatni kostur. Nakon nanošenja emajla na kostur, oblikuje se glava, posebno se utisnu mjesta za ušne školjke, te istakne plastika nosa i brade. Tri zlatne točke ostaju slobodne i predstavljaju oči i usta. Tako pripremlje model stavlja se u malu limenu pećnicu poput uzdužno presječenog valjka i to je emajliranje na "prvu ruku", kako piše Radmila Matejčić. "Druga ruka" je preciznija, dotjeruju se oblici ljudske glave, čiste se kanali, zatvaraju se eventualne rupice u emajlu, konačno se oblikuje nos i stavljaju crne točke po bijelom turbanu. Na taj se način pripremljeni model ponovno stavlja u peć. Kad se izvadi iz ognja, zlato je crno pa se cijeli morčić stavi u blagi rastvor solne kiseline kako bi zlato postalo bijelo. Nakon ispiranja morčić se očisti finim turpijicama i dovršava se glačanjem pomoću četkica. "I danas morčića ručno izrađujemo, ali je tehnologija ipak napredovala, pa je cijeli postupak jednostavniji", kazao nam je jedan od najpoznatijih riječkih majstora zlatara, Tonči Grabušić, dodavši da je upravo zahvaljujući napretku tehnologije, omogućeno da ovaj srećonoša bude dostupan svima. Vlasnici najstarije privatne galerije u Hrvatskoj, Male galerije Bruketa u Starom gradu ovaj suvenir izrađuju u originalnoj keramičkoj tehnici. Morčića dva puta pale

up camp in the Grobnik Field, threatening to attack Rijeka. The nobleman, Zrinski, shot an arrow from Gradina (Castle) close to Jelenje that hit the Ottoman pasha in his temple causing the army to run away. During this period of Ottoman occupation, the people of Rijeka, so Matejčić says, looked to the sky and prayed to God to throw stones and kill all the Ottomans. This is exactly what happened when they tried to run away: stones covered the Ottomans up to their necks and in a field only their turbans remained. In memory of this event, Rijeka’s men put earrings of a man with turban in their wives’ ears. The second legend originates from Pelješac and says that an Italian countess had a black slave who she really liked. She gave her freedom and to remind her of the girl she ordered the creation of earrings depicting her. Morčić’s creation was largely influenced by Venice which, in 17th and 18th centuries, was obsessed with the Orient. Besides eastern spices, perfumes, fabrics, clothes and jewellery, the rich Venetian patricians started to use pages and servants in their chambers – Afro Americans wearing eastern clothes. This inspired numerous Venetian goldsmiths to begin creating decorative pins in the form of a black man with a turban, a golden bust, richly decorated with precious stones, known as a "moretto".

From the hands of experienced masters At the same time the Morčić was created in Rijeka, a more modest version of the "Venetian moretto". Due to its specific appearance, the master’s creation and its acceptable price, the Morčić became part of traditional women’s popular jewellery, first of all for women from Rijeka. The last moretto maker, Raul Rolandi lived in Rijeka until the end of 1940s and thanks to the models and sketches from his workshop, the cultural and historical collection of the Rijeka Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral came about, showing the way the Morčić was created. The model for the Morčić’s frame is made in print and then engraved onto a cuttle-bone so as to obtain a negative into which melted gold is cast. When the gold hardens, a golden print is created which is chiselled out by files and knifes on the surface in order to adhere enamel crushed into tiny, fine dust to it. This dust is then put into nitric acid and then left for around two hours after which it is washed and dried. The enamel is mixed with a drop of water on a piece of glass and this mixture is then placed on the golden frame using a needle. When the enamel is put onto the frame, the head is shaped and separately areas for the orifices and the nose are printed and the chin is enhanced. Three gold spots remain free and represent the eyes and the mouth. This model form is put into a small tin-oven in the form of a longitudinally crossed roller and this is the "first coat" of enamelling, as written by Radmila Matejčić. The "second coat" is more precise, the finishing touches are put to the shapes of the head, and the channels are cleaned, any holes in the enamel are removed and finally the form of the nose and the black dots on the white turban are added. This kind of model is put into the oven again and when it is complete, the gold becomes black and the whole Morčić is put into a light solution of hydrochloric acid so that it becomes white.


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na temperaturi od 1000 stupnjeva, te ga potom pri temperaturi od 690°C dodatno dekoriraju pravom pozlatom. Za kupce imaju spremne certifikate prevedene na više od 30 jezika. Iako postupak izrade i suvenira i nakita zahtijeva izuzetnu vještinu, strpljenje i preciznost, činjenica je da je morčić cjenovno dostupan svima, jer su riječki majstori i umjetnici svjesni da je sreću nemoguće kupiti; izvor naše sreće u subjektivnim je osobinama - plemenitom karakteru, poduzetnom duhu, sretnom temperamentu, vedrom umu i zdravom tijelu. A Morčić je upravo simbol svega toga; on je Rijeka otvorenoga srca.

After washing, the Morčić has to be cleaned with fine files and finished by polishing using brushes. "Even today the Morčić is handmade. However, technology has developed and the whole procedure is much simpler", according to the most famous Rijeka master, Tonči Grabušić, who adds that it is precisely the technological development that has enabled this good luck charm to be available for everyone. The owners of the oldest private gallery in Croatia, the Mala galerija Bruketa located in the old town centre, have created this souvenir using the original ceramic technique. They fire the Morčić twice at a temperature of 1000°C and then additionally decorate it with gilt at a temperature of 690°C. They also offer buyers a certificate that has been translated into more than 30 languages. Although the procedure to create souvenirs and jewellery requires exceptional skill, patience and precision, the fact that, with regard to the price, the Morčić is available to everyone, is thanks to Rijeka’s masters and artists who are aware that happiness cannot be bought; the source of our happiness is in subjective characteristics: a noble character, an adventurous spirit, a happy temperament, a cheerful mind and a healthy body. And the Morčić is precisely a symbol for all that; he is Rijeka’s open heart.

...naušnicu s morčićem nekoć su nosili i muškarci, posebice ribari i njihovi sinovi jedinci, a u uhu pripadnika muškog spola ni danas nisu rijetkost... ...the Morčić earring was once worn by men too, especially fishermen and their only sons and it is not odd to see it in a man’s ear today...


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Novi grad / New city

U cijelome svijetu, tako i u Rijeci, sve je veća potražnja za hostelima There is a growing demand for hostels throughout the world and in Rijeka too

Riječki hosteli

- omiljeni smještaj mladih i onih koji se tako osjećaju

Rijeka hostels - favourite accomodation place of youth and those who feel young

Odavno su iza nas vremena kada su hosteli bili sinonim za loš i jeftin smještaj. Broj hostela u cijelom svijetu raste, kao i njihov standard, potražnja je sve veća. Jedino je cijena ostala ista, hosteli su i dalje znatno jeftiniji od hotela. Hostele najčešće biraju mladi ljudi koji vole upoznavanje i druženje, bitnija im je opuštena atmosfera od komfora, te na svojim putovanjima naglasak stavljaju na aktivan odmor, zabavu i provod, a minimalno žele potrošiti na smještaj. Na hostelskoj karti svijeta nalazi se i Rijeka sa svoja dva hostela...

Omladinski hostel Rijeka Za Hostel Rijeka svi su čuli! HI-Quality certifikat, koji ga svrstava među 250 visokokvalitetnih hostela u svijetu. Uz visok standard, njegovi aduti su lokacija i pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev. Smješten je na Pećinama, jednom od najljepših dijelova grada.Prije pet godina otvoren je u impozatnoj građevini iz 1898. godine poznatoj kao Villa Kozulich, u kojoj se ranije nalazio dječji vrtić. U vili na dva kata i potkrovlju može odsjesti 60 osoba. Na prva dva kata smještene su višekrevetne sobe, a svaka ima svoj sanitarni čvor. Za one koji žele privatnost, u potkrovlju tzv. Penthouseu, još su tri dvokrevetne sobe. U prizemlju su recepcija te kuhinja i blagovaonica, internet corner, te prostrani dnevni boravak. Hostel je okružen zelenilom, a samo nekoliko metara od njega su udaljene najljepše riječke plaže. Tijekom ljeta hostel na Pećinama bio je svijet u malom. Najbrojniji su bili Francuzi, potom Britanci, Nijemci,

Times when hostels were the synonym for bad and cheap accommodation are far behind us. Number of hostels throughout the world is growing as well as their standard and the demand for them. Only the price remained unchanged, hostels are still significantly cheaper than hotels. They are mainly chosen by youngsters who like to meet new people and hang out, who prefer the relaxing atmosphere to comfort and put the accent to the active holiday, entertainment and fun with minimum costs spent for accommodation. On the world hostel map is located Rijeka too with its two hostels…

Omladinski hostel Rijeka Everyone has already heard for the Rijeka Hostel! Hi-Quality certificate that includes it within 250 high quality hostels in the world. Besides the high standard, its main advantages are the location and the view over the Kvarner Bay. It is located on Pećine, one of the most beautiful parts of the city. It was opened five years ago in an impressive building from 1898 known as Villa Kozulich that was once a kindergarten. The two-floor villa and its attic can host 60 people. On the first two floors are located multi bedrooms each having its own sanitary block. For those in search for privacy, in the so called Penthouse, in the attic, are situate another three double rooms. On the ground floor is located the reception as well


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te Skandinavci. Kroz hostel su prošle putovnice gotovo svih europskih država, društvo su im u nešto manjem broju pravile i putovnice Australije, Novog Zelanda i SAD-a. Cijelo ljeto koje se ove godine produžilo sve do listopada u hostelu se tražio krevet više. Niti jedan od 60 kreveta u 13 soba niti jednu noć tijekom cijelog ljeta nije bio prazan. Cijena u ljetnoj sezoni iznosila je 164 kune. Hostel je otvoren i ostatak sezone, tada noćenje, doručak i pristojbe stoje 147 kuna. I van ljetne sezone hostel je uglavnom popunjen, veljača je rezervirana za sudionike i posjetitelje Međunarodnog riječkog karnevala, u ožujku već redovito stižu francuski maturanti na maturalno putovanje. Česti gosti hostela su i sportaši koji nastupaju na riječkim sportskim natjecanjima. Zaposleno je pet djelatnika, koji su svakog trenutka gostima na usluzi. Netipično za hostel u kojem je obavezno tek služenje doručka, u riječkom hostelu gosti na zahtjev mogu dobiti polupansion ili sva tri obroka.

Novi hostel Carnevale na Korzu Sredinom rujna svoja je vrata otvorio novi riječki hostel Carnevale Rijeka. Mali hostel moderno je uređen u 300 kvadrata, njeguje intimnu i opuštajuću atmosferu, a nalazi se na idelanoj lokaciju u samom centru grada na Korzu. Hostel će biti otvoren cijele godine, ima 6 dvokrevetnih soba, dvije četverokrevetne sobe, te dvije spavaonice sa po šest i osam kreveta kao i pet modernih kupaonica. Sve to upotpunjuje mala recepcija i dnevni boravak za druženje i odmor. Cijene se kreću od 130 do 180 kuna. Prvi gosti koji su u njemu odsjeli bili su Amerikanci, a otkrili su ga odmah nakon otvorenja. U hostelu već imaju rezervacije za Novu godinu koju u Rijeci tradiocionalno uz Riječane dočekuju i brojni gosti, punu popunjenost očekuju i u vrijeme Riječkog karnevala po kojem je hostel i dobio ime.

Hostel Aston Najmlađi riječki hostel Aston smjestio se na Žabici u blizini Autobusnog kolodvora. Malom hostelu sa dvije dvokrevetne sobe, jednom sedmokrevetnom, kupaonicom i zajedničkim dnevnim boravkom glavni je adut blizina autobusnog i željezničkog kolodvora te luke. Turisti ga lako uoče odmah po dolasku u Rijeku, a od glavne šetnice Korza udaljen je svega dvije minute. Hostel Aston otvoren je sredinom ožujka, prvi su u njemu prespavali Kanađani koji su bili na proputovanju kroz Rijeku. Cijena smještaja kreće se od 115 kuna za smještaj u sedmerokrevetnoj sobi te 330 u dvokrevetnoj. Dvije sobe imaju pogled na akvatorij riječke luke. U zajedničkim prostorijama gostima je na raspologanju kuhinja u kojoj mogu kuhati, odmoriti se uz televiziju te besplatno koristiti internetom. Vlasnici hostela ranije su na istoj lokaciji bavili iznajmljivanjem apartmana, no zbog velike potražnje za odsjedanjem u hostelima, malo su promijenili djelatnost. Članstvo u Hrvatskom ferijalnom i hostelskom savezu odnosno Hostelling internationalu donijet će vam jeftiniji smještaj u 4000 umreženih hostela u 90 država svijeta, ali i brojna nova poznanstva, druženja i zabave po čemu su poznati i riječki hosteli.

as the kitchen and dining room, internet corner and spacious living room. The hostel is surrounded by vegetation and only several metres away are located the most beautiful Rijeka's beaches. During the summer, the hostel on Pećine was a kind of small world. Guests were mainly from France, Britain, Germany and Scandinavia. The hostel hosted "passports" from almost all European countries and besides the above mentioned countries, here also stayed guests from Australia, New Zealand and USA. During the whole last summer which was extended all until October, the hostel was always full. None of 60 beds disposed in 13 rooms was ever empty during the whole summer. The price in the summer season amounted for 164 kunas. The hostel is opened during the rest of season when bed and breakfast with taxes amounts for 147 kunas. The hostel is mainly full even out of the summer season; February is booked for participants and visitors of the Rijeka International Carnival and in March arrive French high school graduates on their final school trip. Common guests are also the athletes that take part in Rijeka’s sport competitions. Here work five employees which are at guests' service at all times. Untypical for a hostel where only the breakfast servicing is obligatory, Rijeka hostel’s guests can ask for half or full board too.

New Carnevale hostel on Korzo New Rijeka's hostel Carnevale opened its doors in the mid September. A small hostel is modernly furnished and set on 300 square metres; it cherishes the intimacy and relaxing atmosphere and it is located on the ideal location in the city centre itself, on Korzo. Hostel will remain open throughout the year and it disposes of 6 double rooms, two quadruple rooms and two rooms with six and eight beds as well as five modern bathrooms. All of that is completed by a small reception desk and living room for spending time and for relaxation. Price amounts from 130 to 180 kunas. First guests that stayed here were Americans who discovered it immediately after its opening. The hostel rooms are booked already for New Year’s Eve which is in Rijeka traditionally welcomed by Rijeka inhabitants and numerous guests. The full capacity is expected even in the period of Rijeka Carnival according to which the hostel got its name too.

Hostel Aston The Aston, Rijeka's most recent hostel, is situated in the Žabica district, near the Bus Station. The main advantage of a small hostel with two double-bedded rooms, one seven-bedded room, a bathroom and a common living room is the vicinity of the bus and railway stations as well as of the port. It is easily detected for tourists immediately after they arrive in Rijeka, whilst it is only two minutes away from the main pedestrian way, the Korzo. The Aston Hostel was opened in mid-March, the first to sleep there were Canadians traveling through Rijeka. Accommodation costs from 115 kuna for the seven-bedded room and 330 in the double rooms. Two rooms overlook the Rijeka port aquatorium. In the common rooms, guests have a kitchen where can cook at their disposal, and they can relax with the television and use internet free of charge in the living room. The hostel owners previously rented apartments in the same location, but owing to the high demand for hostel accommodation, they changed their activity. Membership of the Croatian Youth Hostel Association and Hostelling International will provide you with cheaper accommodation in 4000 networked hostels in 90 countries worldwide, and will also offer you the possibility of making many new friendships, and gaining access to parties and entertainment for which Rijeka hostels are well known.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Silvija Vidović

Šta Really? da?

Začude li se Riječani nečemu, začut ćete uzvik "Šta da??". Ta je fraza toliko ustaljena u Rijeci, da je postala gotovo suvenir. If people from Rijeka are surprised about something, then you will hear the phrase "Šta da??" meaning "Really??". This phrase has become so established in Rijeka that it has even become a souvenir.

Krenete li od Gradske knjižnice prema Mrtvome kanalu niz ulicu Matije Gupca, među prvim stvarima koje ćete primijetiti su simpatični, šareni bicikli "parkirani" uz rub kolnika. Ukoliko zastanete kako biste ih bolje promotrili, otkrit ćete da se iza njih nalaze još upečatljiviji izlozi u kojima Vas dočekuju šareni odjevni predmeti, torbe izrađene od nesvakidašnjih materijala i vesele krpene lutke. I zaista je teško odoljeti porivu da uđete i provjerite o čemu je točno riječ!

If you are headed from the City Library towards the Mrtvi Channel, along Matije Gupca Street, the first things you will notice are the lovely, colourful bikes "parked" by the roadside. And if you stop to examine them closely, you will discover even more impressive shop-windows behind them in which you will be welcomed by colourful clothes, bags made of unusual materials and cheerful rag dolls. After all this, it will be really hard to resist the impulse to enter and take a look at what it is all really about!

Dućan Happy Hobby je projekt koji je, prema riječima njegove vlasnice Amne Šehović, iznikao iz ljubavi prema recikliranju te zdravom i održivom načinu života. Tako se u rukama ove svestrane umjetnice, nepoželjni "otpad" poput automobilskih guma i kamionskih cerada pretvara u jedinstvena umjetnička djela. U našem hiperkonzumerističkom društvu u kojemu više ne znamo što bismo od silnoga smeća kojeg proizvodimo, ovo je zaista hvale vrijedan pothvat – udahnuti novi život predmetima koje smo iskoristili i otpisali. Sve se može upotrijebiti kao materijal za izradu ovih umjetničkih djela – vunene majice "s greškom" prekrajaju se u nove, kopije starih dnevnih novina postaju torbe, a kartoni mlijeka pretvaraju se u bilježnice. Pritom nije slučajnost da su potonja dva predmeta iznikla iz prepoznatljivih riječkih "brandova"

The Happy Hobby shop – a project which, according to its owner, Amna Šehović, cropped up from a love of recycling and a healthy and sustainable life style. In this way, in the hands of this versatile artist, undesirable "waste" such as car tyres and lorry covers transform into unique works of art. In our hyper-consumer society in which we no longer know what to do with the huge amounts of rubbish we produce, it really is a praiseworthy project - to breathe new life using the objects we have already used and written off. Everything can be used as a material for the production of a work of art woollen jumpers with "faults" are retailored into new ones, old copies of daily newspapers become bags and milk cartons become notebooks. At the same time, it is not a coincidence that the latter two objects have become recognizable


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budući da je čitav dućan uvelike inspiriran našim gradom na Rječini. Duh sa riječkih cesta pretače se u uporabne predmete, a svi umjetnici čija se djela prodaju u dućanu obavezno moraju biti – iz Rijeke.

Šta ne da da? Od tipično riječkih predmeta, najviše plijene pozornost šarene majice i bedževi sa tom sveprisutnom poštapalicom Riječana, frazom koju smo skloni ugurati kako u pitanja tako i u odgovore, pa i u skoro sve drugo ako to tako poželimo – "šta da?". A tu su i ostali standardi riječkoga uličnog idioma poput "šta ne da da" i "nema problema", te bedž lokalpatriotskoga ponosa – "Made in Rijeka". Tako na jednoj torbi, umjesto sveprisutnoga "Made in China", nalazimo toplu poruku autohtonosti i bliskosti – šivano u Rijeci, s puno ljubavi. U svakom slučaju, riječ je o suvenirima s mnogo više "duše" od generičnih kipića gradskih znamenitosti s natpisom "Rijeka". A kako Šehović veli, upravo su turisti među prvima prepoznali vrijednost takvih jedinstvenih proizvoda, cijeneći osjećaj da su, kao uspomenu na svoje putovanje, kupili nešto izvorno i originalno. Nije naodmet napomenuti da su cijene više nego pristupačne, osobito ako se uzme u obzir da je riječ o unikatima koji nerijetko od svojih stvaratelja zahtijevaju mnogo truda. Sve u svemu, ako vam se iz bilo kojeg razloga prohtije kući sa sobom ponijeti komadić Rijeke – bilo da ga želite nositi na prsima, na leđima ili njime ukrasiti svoj dom – došli ste na pravo mjesto!

Rijeka "brands", as the entire shop is primarily inspired by our town lying on the Rječina River. The spirit of the streets of Rijeka is turned into usable objects and all artists whose works are sold in this shop must originate from Rijeka.

Šta ne da da? (Really indeed?) Amongst the typical Rijeka objects, the most attention is drawn to the colourful T-shirts and badges with the all-pervasive Rijeka people's prop-phrase which we tend to use as a form of a question, answer and in everything else we want - "šta da?" (really?). Here other standards of Rijeka slang can also be found such as "šta ne da da" (really indeed?) and "nema problema" (no problem) as well as the local patriotic badge – "made in Rijeka". So on one of the bags, instead of the omnipresent "made in China", we can find this warm autochthonous and intimate message – sewed with lots of love in Rijeka. However, these are souvenirs with a lot more "soul" then the generic statues of city curiosities with the inscription "Rijeka" on them. And as Šehović claims, the tourists were the first ones to recognise the value of these unique products, appreciating the feeling of buying an original and authentic souvenir of their trip. It doesn’t hurt to consider the prices which are more than acceptable, especially if we consider that these are unique objects that usually demand a great deal of effort from their creators. All things considered, if for any reason, you wish to take a piece of Rijeka home with you – whether you want to carry it on your finger, on your back or you prefer to decorate your home with it – you have come to just the right place!


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Novi grad / New city

Imate li četveronožnog prijatelja koji voli more i kupanje, ovdje je dobrodošao If you have a four-legged friend who loves sea and swimming then he is welcome here too

Piše / Written by: Barbara Cakar

Plaža za pse na Kantridi

Dog beach on Kantrida

Slijedeći svjetske trendove i upotpunjujući turističku ponudu, Rijeka je sredinom prošle godine na 500 četvornih metara ispod nogometnog stadiona na Kantridi dobila plažu za pse. Čupave ili dotjerane, tihe ili glasne, mislioce ili radnike... sve koje volimo jer s njima živimo već tisućljećima. Tako u klimatskim blagodatima grada na Rječini i okruženju koje je izvanredno dostupno brodovima,

Following world trends and completing the tourist offer, in the middle of last year, Rijeka got its own dog beach which extends over 500 square metres and is located under the soccer stadium on Kantrida. Regardless of whether our four-legged friends are hairy or knotty, quiet or loud, thinkers or doers…we love them all as we have been living with them for centuries. The climatic benefits of the town that lies on the Rječina River


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automobilima, željeznicom i  zrakoplovima, sada mogu uživati i vlasnici četveronožnih ljubimaca, svi oni koji misle jednako kao i Louis Armstrong da „kratkim mahanjem repom, pas može izraziti više osjećaja nego čovjek višesatnim govorom“. Čisto more, ugostiteljski sadržaji, šljunčane, stjenovite i betonske površine za upijanje sunčeve energije i mirisa Mediterana nedvojbeno će privući sve one kojima je upravo pas najbolji prijatelj i utjelovljenje radosti i vjernosti, kao i one kojima kućni ljubimci ne smetaju. Osim sunčališta, uređen je i prilaz u more, a postavljena ploča jasno pokazuje o čijem je terenu riječ i da su ljubimci na toj lokaciji itekako dobrodošli. Da bi pseći komfor bio potpun, na zapadnom dijelu plaže uz prilaz u more smješten je i tuš sa slavinom i gumenim crijevom za pranje, pa vlasnici svog psa, nakon užitka u plivanju, mogu i istuširati. Dakako, vlasnici pasa svjesni su pravila kojih se treba pridržavati, prije svega dovoditi ga i držati na uzici, sa sobom imati sav pribor potreban za održavanja higijene, očistiti njegov izmet te isprati mjesto na kojem je mokrio. Podsjetimo kako je to jedna od 20 riječkih plaža od Preluka do Grčeva navedenih u dvojezičnoj brošuri riječke Turističke zajednice, koja donosi informacije o tome koje plaže nose Plavu zastavu, na kojima postoje kafići i restorani, tobogani, ali i infrastruktura za odbojku na pijesku, vaterpolo ili košarku na vodi, te kojim se gradskim autobusnim linijama može doći do pojedinih plaža. Ova za pse dokaz je da Rijeka osluškuje potrebe svojih sugrađana i gostiju, nastojeći svima osigurati potreban prostor, pa tako i našim ljubimcima koji zauzimaju značajno mjesto u životima mnogih, a utječu i na poboljšanje čovjekova zdravlja. Kako navodi izvješće objavljeno 2005. u British Medical Journal, psi služe kao „sociološki katalizatori“ što stvara veću interakciju među ljudima, te umanjuje osjećaj usamljenosti, posebice među starijima. Vlasnici pasa se također bolje nose sa stresnim situacijama, a životinje im pomažu i da izbjegnu bolesti povezane s anksioznošću. Stoga će zasigurno biti i zadovoljni kada se osobno uvjere da je i Rijeka, po uzoru na poznate svjetske turističke destinacije, spremna za "pasje vrućine".

and its surrounding areas which are excellently connected by boats, cars, trains and planes, can now be enjoyed by pet owners too - all those who think like Louis Armstrong: A dog can express more with his tail in seconds than his owner can express with his tongue in hours”. The clean sea, catering facilities, pebbles, rocky and concrete surfaces for absorbing the Sun’s energy as well as the Mediterranean smells, will certainly attract all those who consider their dog to be their best friend and who is a personification of joy and loyalty together with all those who are not particularly bothered by pets. Besides the sunbathing area, there is even access to the sea and there is a clear signpost stating that pets are more than welcome in the area set aside for them. To complete the dog’s comfort, on the western part of the beach, by the approach to the sea, there is a shower with a tap and a rubber hose for washing. In this way owners can wash their dog, after he has finished swimming and enjoying the sea. Of course, dog owners must be aware of the rules they have to obey. First of all they have to bring and keep their dogs on a leash, have all the necessary tools for maintaining hygiene, clean up any excrement and wash the area where the dog has urinated. Let’s mention that this is just one of the 20 beaches in Rijeka that extend from Preluk to Grčevo to be listed in the bilingual brochure published by the Rijeka Tourist Board bringing information regarding which beaches have the Blue Flag award, which beaches host bars and restaurants, water-slides as well as infrastructure for beach volley, waterpolo or water basketball and which bus lines reach each single beach. This dog beach is proof that Rijeka has listened to the needs of its citizens and guests, trying to ensure the necessary space for everyone as well as for our pets. Pets play an important role in many people’s lives and, besides that, influence the improvement of our health conditions. According to a report published in 2005 in the British Medical Journal, dogs are used as “sociological catalysts” resulting in better interaction amongst people and decreasing the feeling of loneliness, especially amongst older people. Dog owners also deal with stressful situations better, whilst animals help them to avoid illnesses connected to anxiety. So they will certainly be satisfied when they learn that even Rijeka, following the example of famous world tourist destinations, amongst other things, is now ready for the very hot weather.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Branka Malnar

Brodograditeljske vještine vraćaju se u Rijeku kroz vrijedne ruke ovdašnjih majstora Shipbuilding skills are returning to Rijeka from the hard-working hands of local craftsmen

Barke,

brodovi, lađe

Boats, ships, vessels


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Ne umanjujući ostale vrijednosti, cjelokupna povijest Rijeke i Kvarnera mogla bi se svesti na staru latinsku izreku "navigare necesse est" jer su stanovnici  ovih obala oduvijek bili vezani i upućeni na more. Škrta zemlja podmirivala je tek manji dio potreba, ali je zato more i sve vezano uz njega to nadoknađivalo. Počnimo od prethistorije. Prvo rukom izrađeno plovilo bijaše monoksil, izdubljeno deblo koje se u našim krajevima zove ladva. Jedna od njih sačuvana je u Franjevačkom samostanu na otočiću Košljunu kraj Punta. U ladvi se najprije veslalo rukama, potom su ih zamijenila vesla, a primjer prijelaza iz primitivne gradnje u konstrukcijsku je nadogradnja madira. Primjer za je to je rapska laja (lađa), brodica čija se replika zahvaljujući rapskim entuzijastima i kasnijom potporom institucija sada gradi. Rapska laja bit će jedna od zvijezda Kvarnerskog festivala mora što  će se u Mrtvom kanalu i riječkoj luci održati od 6. do 10. lipnja. Manifestacija je nastavak prošlogodišnje inicijative "Oživimo Mrtvi kanal", koju je uz suradnju s ostalim udrugama organizirala udruga Pro torpedo. Naime taj dio grada, staro korito Rječine, kroz povijest je bila gradska žila kucavica. Tu su uplovljavali drveni brodovi i brodice. Naravno tu se i trgovalo. Danas je taj prostor, stiješnjen među prometnicama, zamro no njegovim oživljavanjem mogao bi postati atraktivna lokacija za građane i turiste - Povijesni pomorski muzej. Festival mora stepenica je više prema tom naumu. Mrtvi kanal u tim će danima vratiti tradicijska plovila uz svoje obale, stara jedra na gucima, pasarama, batanama...a na obali radionice mornarskih vještina, ribarska i nautička,

Without diminishing other values, the entire history of Rijeka and Kvarner could be reduced to the old Latin saying "navigare necesse est" because the inhabitants of these coasts have always been bound and directed by the sea. Poor soil was enough for only a small part of the local people’s needs needs, but the sea and everything connected with it compensated that lack. Let's start from prehistoric times. The first hand-made ​​vessel was the so called monoksil, a hollowed out tree trunk that in our region is known as a ladva. One of them has been preserved in the Franciscan monastery situated on the islet of Košljun, near Punat. The ladva was paddled first using only hand power, the hands were then replaced by oars whilst a good example of transition from a primitive construction to a structural one was the upgrading by using the so called madire (a sort of transversal rib structure). A good example this is the Rapska laja (the island of Rab’s craft), a vessel whose replica is in the process of being built thanks to enthusiasts from Rab and the subsequent support of local institutions. The Rapska laja will be one of the stars of the Kvarner Sea Festival which will take place on the Mrtvi kanal and in the port of Rijeka from 6th to 10th June. This event is a continuation of last year's initiative "Revive Mrtvi Kanal" (Dead Channel), organized by the Pro torpedo Association in collaboration with other such organisations. This part of town, the old Rječina river bed, over history was the lifeblood of this city. Wooden ships and boats sailed in here. Of course, it was also a trading place. Today this area, squeezed in between the roads, has become extinct but its revival could become an


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brodomaketarska te radionica tradicijske brodogradnje. Okupit će se tu još ono malo kalafata, zanimanja koje nestaje kao što nestaje i drvena brodogradnja. Radionice su iznimno važne jer  se na njima prenose vještine, a nestanu li ljudi koji njima vladaju  zauvijek će nestati i one. Hrvatska zasad ima zavidnu  drvenu flotu, naglasak je na zasad, jer opasnost nestanka već prijeti. U Francuskoj se to dogodilo krajem 20 stoljeća i kako bi spasili što se spasiti da, pokrenuli su projekt  prema kojemu svaki grad i mjesto uz more treba sačuvati tradicijsko plovilo ili izraditi repliku nekog od jedrenjaka, a kalafate su proglasili državnim majstorima restauratorima i pod njihovim vodstvom sagradili repliku jednog jedrenjaka iz 19. stoljeća.

Kvarner u Brestu To je bio i početak  festivala mora u Brestu u kojem se ta manifestacija od 1992. održava svake  četvrte godine. Danas je  to svojevrsna  olimpijada tradicijskih brodova iz cijelog svijeta koju posjeti milijun posjetitelja. Na njoj će se ove godine po prvi put predstaviti  Primosko-goranska županije sa pet plovila: rapskom lajom, krčkima pasarom i gucom te lovranskima gucom i pasarom. Za sudionike će  nastup u Brestu biti i prilika da shvate koliko  se u Europi njeguje pomorska baština i vrate ponos što smo i mi dio te velike zajednice zaljubljenika u more i brodove. Ovogodišnji odlazak u Brest na neki je način kompenzacija za propuštenu priliku 2008. Naime tada je grupa entuzijsta željela sagraditi Liburnu, brod koji je obilježio svjetsku pomorsku povijest.

attractive location for both local citizens and tourists with the Historical Maritime Museum. The Festival of the Sea is just a step closer to that idea. During that period, traditional vessels will return along the banks of the Mrtvi kanal , the old sails on the fishing boats, known as guce, pasare, batane... whilst on the shore sailing skills workshops will take place, together with fishing and boating, master boat modelling workshops and a workshop of traditional shipbuilding. There will also be a small number of kalafati (old masters who due to their age or ill health are no longer able to build boats themselves but can assist with their knowledge and skills), a profession that is disappearing in the same way the wooden shipbuilding trade has done. Workshops are extremely important because skills can be transferred and if the people with those pass away without having transferred them, they will disappear forever. For now Croatia has an impressive wooden fleet but the emphasis is on for now as the danger of its disappearance is already threatening. In France it happened in the late 20th century and in order to save what could be saved, they initiated a project according to which every town and place along the coast had to preserve a traditional craft or make a replica of a sailing ship. The Kalafati were proclaimed state master craftsmen and restorers and under their guidance built a replica of a sailing ship from the 19th century.

Kvarner in Brest That was the start of the Brest Sea Festival, the place where


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Liburni Liburni, drevni pomorski narod,  nastanio se u ovom našem kraju od ušća Raše do ušća Krke negdje oko 8. stoljeća prije naše ere. Svi antički tekstovi koji spominju Liburne navode ih kao priznate tradicionalne pomorce. Imali su nazive za dvije tisuće zvijezda što dokazuje da su plovili puno dalje od Sjevernog Jadrana. Uz plovidbu su se bavili ribarstvom, trgovinom ( jantarski put) i - gusarstvom. Zbog orkanske bure koja je tu uobičajena, a koju spominju i Rimljani, Liburni su morali smisliti brze, čvrste i nepotopive brodove za njihovo olujno more. Stoga su u rimskom Mediteranu rabili najviše raznovrsnih brodskih tipova od kojih potječu i neki današnji nazivi plovila na Jadranu, Sredozemlju i šire. Drakofori sa zmajskom glavom na pramcu i krmi bili su desantni ratni brodovi poznati kao kasniji vikinški  drakkari. Liburnae bijahu bojni brodovi, dvoveslarke koje su kasnije kopirali Rimljani sagradivši galiju Liburnu. Tu je i Galaia - veći transportno-trgovački brod tj. prototip i imenjak kasnijih srednjovjekovnih galija, pa Lembul, manji i brzi ribarski brod prototip i imenjak  leuta i Paros - manja brodica za prijevoz i lokalni ribolov prethodnik i imenjak današnje barke. Zanimljivo je da su liburnijska plovila  rađena tzv. šivanom gradnjom - rimski  povjesničari opisuju liburnijska plovila sljedećim riječima: "I nikakav tesarski klin ne drži na okupu sklop brodskog trupa nego je on šivan lanenom i žukovom užadi". Nažalost,  osim  povjesničarima  razdoblje vladavine  Liburna većini je nepoznata. Ovaj je festival jedan od načina

that event has been taking place every four years since 1992. Today it is a sort of Olympics of traditional boats from all around the world, which is visited by millions of visitors. For the first time this year, Primorje and Gorski kotar County will present five vessels there: Rab’s laja, Krk’s pasara and guca and Lovran’s guca and pasara. This performance in Brest will be an opportunity for participants to understand how much maritime heritage is encouraged in Europe and to return the pride in being part of this great community of sea and ship lovers. This year's trip to Brest is in some way compensation for the missed opportunity in 2008. That year a group of enthusiasts took the Liburna, a ship that marked the world's maritime history.

Liburnians The Liburnians, an ancient maritime nation, settled this area extending from the estuary of Raša to the mouth of Krka, somewhere around the 8th century BC. All the ancient documents in which the Liburnians were mentioned, speak about them as recognized traditional seafarers. They had names for two thousands stars which proved that they had sailed far beyond the North Adriatic. Besides sailing, they were also occupied in the fishing, trade (Amber Road) and in piracy. Owing to the hurricane storms which were common in this area at the time and also mentioned by the Romans, the Liburnians had to invent fast, rugged and unsinkable ships for their stormy seas. Therefore, in the Roman part of the Mediterranean a variety of vessel types


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da ih bolje upoznamo. Kroz pomorsku baštinu, kroz prava žena (ginekokracija) – kažu ne bez razloga "Amazonke su legende, Liburne su povijest".Tu je i spomen najboljeg maslinova ulja iz rimskih vremena Oleum Liburnicum u Apicijevoj zbirci rimskih recepata. Naravno, ne zaboravimo bačve - prvi pisani spomen tih drvenih posuda za držanje vina  dolazi s Krka. Za  bitke između Cezarovih i Pompeja, od bačava je napravljena splav kojom su se kohorte prebacile na kopno. A Rijeka je dugo   kroz povijest nosila prefiks Liburnijski grad. Kvarnerski festival mora prilika je  za vraćanje i toga dijela pomorske povijesti grada i kraja. Jer ne vrijedi se dičiti tuđim, za  povijest Grčke ideš u Atenu, Rimljana u Rim, a Liburna u Rijeku i naš liburnijski kraj.

were used from which a number of the modern names of today’s boats on the Adriatic, the Mediterranean and further afield orginate. The so called drakofori with its Dragon head at the bow and the stern were landing warships later known as Viking Drakkars. The Liburnae were battle ships, with two oars which were later copied by the Romans who built the galleon, Liburna. There is also the Galaia – a greater cargo and merchant ship, that is a prototype and namesake of later medieval galleys, followed by the Lembul, a small and quick fishing boat, which was the prototype and namesake of the Leut and Paros - small boats that were used for transport and local fishing, precursors and namesakes of today's boats. It is interesting that Liburnian vessels were constructed using the sewed construction method. Roman historians described Liburnian vessels using the following words: "And no carpenter’s pin can hold together the entire hull, but it is embroidered by linen and Weaver's Broom ropes". Unfortunately, apart from the historians, the Liburnian governing period is unknown to most people. This festival is one of great occasions to learn something more about them. Through their maritime heritage and women’s rights (gynocracy) – is said, not without reason, "Amazon women are legendary, Liburnians are history." Not forgetting the registration regarding the best olive oil from Roman times, the Oleum Liburnicum, used in Apicius’ collection of Roman recipes. Of course, we should not forget the barrels - the first written records about those wooden receptacles for keeping wine comes from Krk. Battles between Caesar’s and Pompey’s soldiers used these barrels to make rafts which helped the cohorts to transfer themselves to the mainland. For a long time during its history, Rijeka carried the prefix the Liburnian city. The Kvarner Sea festival is an opportunity to restore that part of the maritime history of both the town and the region. It is not worth being proud of something which is not yours. For the history of Greece you should go to Athens, to learn about the Romans you should go to Rome and to discover the Liburnians you have to go to Rijeka and our Liburnian area.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Loreta Parkelj

Zbirka od 40 satova dio je bogatog fundusa Muzeja grada Rijeke, a povjesničarka umjetnosti dr. Vesna Lovrić Plantić javnosti će ju predstaviti u studenom ove godine izložbom "Oblici vremena". Unatoč činjenici što mnogi među njima ne rade, njihova ljepota time nije umanjena. Čak naprotiv, svaki primjerak predstavlja zasebnu priču izuzetno vrijednu na tržištu umjetnina. Riječ je o stolnim, kaminskim, zidnim i podnim satovima različitog tipa i različitih provenijencija, najviše srednjeeuropskoga podrijetla, točnije iz Beča, ali tu će se naći i primjerci francuskih i američkih satova, koji su svojedobno također pristizali u Primorje i na riječko područje od 18. pa sve do polovice 20. stoljeća. Ravnatelj Muzeja grada Rijeke Ervin Dubrović navodi kako ova zbirka nije obimna, ali je sustavno prikupljana i osmišljavana

Oblici vremena Shapes of time

This collection of 40 clocks is part of the rich Rijeka City Museum’s holdings whilst the art historian, Dr. Vesna Lovrić Plantić, will present it to the public in November this year as part of the "Shapes of Time" exhibition. In spite of the fact that most of them are no longer functional, their beauty has not been diminished. Indeed, each sample represents an individual story that is extremely valuable on the works of art market. We are talking about a variety of table, fireplace, wall and pavement clocks from various origins, predominantly from Central Europe, and more precisely from Vienna. However, you will also be able to find samples of French and American clocks here which, at some time in the past, arrived in the Coastal areas and in the area of Rijeka from some time in

Fotografije / Photos: Muzej grada Rijeke / Rijeka City Museum


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prema profilu Muzeja – zavičajni i povijesni - u namjeri da se satovima oslika bitan fenomen trgovačkog i poslovnog duha moderne Rijeke. No, geslo "vrijeme je novac", dodaje Dubrović, govori samo pola istine. Druga polovica leži u činjenici da su satovi i dragocjen ukras, odraz ukusa i mogućnosti građana; svojevrstan statusni simbol. Razvoj i sve veća dostupnost kućnih satova poklapa se s usponom građanstva, a Rijeka je već krajem osamnaestog stoljeća dostigla svoj prvi uspon. Bila su to prava umjetnička djela, nerijetko izrađena od skupocjenih materijala poput kornjačevine, pozlaćene bronce, mramora, mjeda i sl. Dr. Lovrić Plantić kao najbolja hrvatska poznavateljica starih satova ovom će izložbom, među ostalim, posjetitelje upoznati s činjenicom da su prvi mehanički satovi nastali u 13. stoljeću u europskim zemljama Italiji i Engleskoj i to kao veliki javni satovi u crkvenom ili gradskom tornju. Prije njih postojali su samo sunčani i pješčani satovi kao jedini mjerači vremena. Tek napuštanjem zemljoradnje i pojavom preciznijih obveza, gradova i industrije, satovi postaju privatna stvar i dobivaju manji oblik. Satovi koje će posjetitelji moći vidjeti na izložbi uglavnom su kućni, vezani uz reprezentativne prostore plemićkih i građanskih kuća i stanova, a govore o bogatstvu i ukusu njihovih vlasnika kojima je sat bio jedan od važnijih statusnih simbola.

the 1700s until the first half of the 20th century. The Rijeka City Museum’s director, Ervin Dubrović points out that this collection is not large, but the items have been collected systematically and worked out to suit the Museum’s – landscape and historical – profile and with the intention of illustrating an important phenomenon of the merchant and business spirit of modern Rijeka using clocks. However the proverb "time is money", adds Dubrović, is only half of the truth. The other half lies in the fact that clocks are a precious decoration as well, a reflection of the taste and possibilities of local citizens; a kind of status symbol. The development and growing availability of home clocks concurs with the rise of the middle classes, whilst Rijeka reached its first ascent at the end of the 18th century. These were real works of art, often created out of precious materials such as turtleshell, gilded bronze, marble, brass and other analogous materials. As the best Croatian connoisseur of ancient clocks, Dr. Lovrić Plantić will introduce visitors, amongst other things, to the fact that the first mechanical clocks were created in 13th century in the European countries of Italy and England and in the form of large public clocks on church or city towers. Before them, just sun dials and hour glasses were the only time gauges in existence. Only when people abandoned agricultural activities and when precise works in cities and industries appeared, did clocks become a private thing and were created in smaller shapes. The clocks that will be presented to visitors at the exhibition are mainly house clocks linked to the representative areas of the noblemen’s and citizens’ houses and apartments that tell of the wealth and taste of their owners who considered clocks to be one of the most important status symbols.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Luka 02 / Harbour 02 Marcus Doyle, 2010

Rijeka Foto Festival "Semantički okviri pejzažne fotografije od pedesetih godina 20. stoljeća do danas" naziv je izložbe kojom će u studenom ove godine biti otvoren treći Rijeka Foto Festival; manifestacija koja već prerasta u tradicionalno događanje i jedan od ključnih festivala fotografije ovog dijela Europe. Organizatori, Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti i Muzej grada Rijeke i ove će godine okupiti najznačajnija imena domaće i inozemne fotografske scene. Za navedenu izložbu je kustosica Sabina Salamon odabrala različite autorske pristupe protagonista od poslijeratne fotografije do suvremenih izričaja, uključujući najnovije akvizicije autora kao što su Josip Klarica, Tošo Dabac, Fedor Vučemilović, Sandra Vitaljić, Ranko Dokmanović, Boris Cvjetanović, Marcus Doyle, Isabelle Hayeur, Sofija Silvia, Chrystel Lebas. "Evidentno je da se pejzaž mijenjao sukladno pogledu na čovjekovu poziciju u svijetu, od tamnih raspoloženja pod utjecajem egzistencijalizma 50-tih godina do suvremenih viđenja krajolika kao fantazme o idealnom pejzažu na jednoj strani ili pak zapuštenih obezljudenih, nadrealnih prostranstava. Pejzaž u fotografiji određen je kontekstom čovjekova raspoloženja prema svijetu, viđenjem sebe unutar vlastite okoline, stupnjevanje od naselja, grada, regije, kontinenta, do čitavog eko sustava", navodi Salamon. Druga izložba koja će posjetitelji moći razgledati u vrijeme Rijeka foto festivala nosi naziv "Turistički krajolici": zona koegzistirajućih

"Semantic frames of landscape photography from the 1950s until the present day" is the name of the exhibition which will open, in November 2012, the third edition of the Rijeka Photo Festival; an event that has already became a tradition and one of the key photographic festivals in this part of Europe. Its organizers, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Rijeka City Museum will this year too, bring the most important names of the local and foreign photography scene together. Apart from this exhibition, the curator, Sabina Salamon has chosen a variety of approaches to the subject, from post-war photography to contemporary expressions, including the most recent acquisitions from authors such as Josip Klarica, Tošo Dabac, Fedor Vučemilović, Sandra Vitaljić, Ranko Dokmanović, Boris Cvjetanović, Marcus Doyle, Isabelle Hayeur, SofijaSilvia and Chrystel Lebas. Obviously, the landscape has changed in accordance with the view of the human's position in the world, from dark moods under the influence of existentialism in 1950s to contemporary views of landscapes such as the fantasy regarding an ideal landscape on one side, or abandoned, people less, surreal spaces. The landscape in the photography is determined by the context of the individual’s mood in relation to the world, by seeing himself within his own surroundings, grading from settlements, towns, regions, continents to the entire eco system, Salamon says. The other exhibition open to visitors during the Rijeka Photo Festival is called Tourist Landscapes: a Zone of Coexisting


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transformacija/Tourist Landscapes: Zone of coexisting transformations" nizozemskog autora Dika Bouwhuisa. Riječ je o izložbi 70 fotografija u boji koju zajednički pripremaju riječki MMSU i Galerija Zuccato iz Poreča. Autor proCrvena lada / Red Lada matra krajolik duž turističke Marcus Doyle, 2010 linije Mediteranske obale. Zapaža kako je na mnogo načina riječ o krajoliku transformacije. Bivajući pod stalnom obnovom od Drugog svjetskog rata nadalje, navodi Salamon, Mediteranski rub obale se postupno razvio u najveću urbanizacijsku cjelinu na kontinentu (Europi). Prognoza Blue Plana (Program Ujedinjenih naroda za okoliš, Mediteranski akcijski plan) pokazuje da će ovaj krajolik u 2025. godini naseljavati oko 205 milijuna privremenih stanovnika, zajedno sa 350 milijuna turista godišnje. Simbolično rečeno, ukupan prostor Mediterana postojat će kao 'linearni grad', trenutačne duljine od više tisuća milja, od juga Portugala do sjeverne obale Hrvatske, te od juga Turske do sjevera Grčke. S obzirom na trenutni porast turizma duž albanske obale, linearni gradovi će se u budućnosti spojiti. Na taj se način dolazi do postupnog preobražavanja u prvi istinski europski grad - Europolis. Konglomerat ljetovališta povezanih na linearan način vidljiv je kao lanac svjetlosti oko Sredozemnoga mora na noćnim fotografijama iz NASA-inih satelita. Između ostalog, kustosica Muzeja grada Rijeke, Sabrina Žigo, u okviru Rijeka foto festivala priprema povijesnu izložbu iz fundusa fotografija te ustanove koji sadrži više od 6000 fotografija, bilježeći riječku situaciju od poraća do devedesetih godina prošloga stoljeća.

Transformations by the Dutch author, Dik Bouwhuis. It is an exhibition of 70 colour photographs prepared together by Rijeka's Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Zuccato Gallery from Poreč. The author observes the landscape along the Mediterranean Coast tourist line. He singles out the landscape by transforming it in many ways. Being under continuous reconstruction since the Second World War onwards, specifies Salamon, the edge of the Mediterranean coast has developed gradually in the largest urban unit of the continent (Europe). According to the Blue Plan prognosis (United Nations’ Environment programme, Mediterranean Activity plan) in 2025 this landscape will be inhabited by around 205 million temporary inhabitants, together with 350 million tourists per year. Symbolically speaking, the entire Mediterranean area will exist as a several thousand mile long "linear city" spread from the south of Portugal to the northern Croatian coast and from the south of Turkey to northern Greece. With regard to the current increase in tourist flow along the Albanian coast, in the future, linear cities will be united. In this way, we will arrive at a gradual metamorphosis of the first true European city - Europolis. A conglomerate of summer resorts connected in a linear way is visible as a chain of light around the Mediterranean Sea on the night photos taken from NASA satellites. Amongst others, the Rijeka City Museum’s curator, Sabrina Žigo, within the Rijeka Photo Festival, has prepared a historical exhibition which will include the photography holdings of this institute comprising more than 6000 photographs marking the situation in Rijeka from the post-war period until the 1990s.

Rafinerija nafte / Oil rafinery Marcus Doyle, 2010 Fotografije: Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti, Rijeka / Photos: Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Rijeka


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Novi grad / New city

Prijestupna je godina, godina je Olimpijade. Sportaši iz cijeloga svijeta protekle četiri godine naporno su trenirali, a oni najuspješniji će od 27. srpnja do 12. kolovoza nastupiti u Londonu i oči cijelog svijeta bit će uprte u njih. London je jedini grad na svijetu u kojemu će se Olimpijada održati po treći put.

Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak

I Riječani će ove godine u Londonu braniti boje Hrvatske Rijeka citizens will also be defending the colours of Croatia in London this year

Olimpijske medalje Kroz povijest, a tako će biti i ove godine u Londonu, na Olimpijadama su uvijek sudjelovali i riječki sportaši. Olimpijski duh je u Rijeku tijekom dva stoljeća donosilo 70-tak sportaša, a njih 16 se u Rijeku vratilo s olimpijskom medaljom oko vrata. To su Ivica Jobo Curtini, zatim Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, Valter Matošević, Alvaro Načinović, Aramis Naglić, Zoran Roje, Dejan Dabović, Mirza Džomba, Nenad Gračan, Igor Hinić, Damir Glavan, Valner Franković, Zoran Mustur, Frane Nonković, Ivan Ljubičić i jedina sportašica, Snježana Pejčić. U Rijeci su tako dom pronašle nogometne, rukometne, teniske i vaterpolske medalje, a jedinu riječku i prvu žensku hrvatsku medalju na ljetnim olimpijskim igrama pogodila je zračnom puškom u Pekingu - Snježana Pejčić.

Riječani u Londonu 1948. Na Olimpijadi u Londonu 1948. sudjelovali su riječki vaterpolisti, pokojni Ivica Jobo Curtini i Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić. Nekadašnji vaterpolski golman Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić danas ima 87 godina, a na Olimpijadi u Londonu nastupio je kao 23. godišnjak. Bile su to njegove prve Olimpijske igre. - Bilo je poslijeratno stanje, vladalo je siromaštvo i nama sportašima je samo putovanje luksuznim vlakom do Londona bilo nešto najuzbudljivije u životu. Pamtim prvi susret sa carinicima koji su provjeravali švercamo li cigarete i alkohol. Nama su rekli da bi se u Engleskoj mogla dobro prodati šljivovica i svatko od nas u torbi, koja je bila siromašna opremom, nosio je bocu ili dvije domaće šljivovice. Iako se jednom kolegi razbila boca i željezničkom stanicom raširio se miris rakije, carinici su nas pustili i šljivovice su ipak došle do do Londona. Ona nam je povećala džeparac koji nam na Olimpijadi iznosio 1 dolar po danu. Dočekao nas je poslijeratni, razrušen

Olimpijski duh

živi u Rijeci

The olympic spirit lives in Rijeka

This is a leap-year, an Olympic year. Athletes from all over the world have been training hard for the last four years and the most successful among them will take part in London, from 27th July to 12th August with the entire world following them. London is the only town in the world where the Olympic Games have taken place for the third time.

Olympic medals throughout history, as well as this year in London, Rijeka’s athletes have always taken part in the Olympic Games. Over two centuries, the Olympic spirit has taken around 70 athletes from Rijeka, with16 of them coming back wearing Olympic medals around their necks. These are Jobo Curtini, Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, Valter Matošević, Alvaro Načinović, Aramis Naglić, Zoran Roje, Dejan Dabović, Mirza Džomba, Nenad Gračan, Igor Hinić, Damir Glavan, Valner Franković, Zoran Mustur, Frane Nonković and Ivan Ljubičić, and the only woman athlete, Snježana Pejčić. In this way medals for soccer, handball, tennis and water-polo have found their home in Rijeka and the first and only women’s medal in Rijeka at the summer Olympic Games which was won by Snježana


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nimalo glamoruzan London. Englezi su u to vrijeme imali točkice za hranu. Nije bilo Olimpijskog sela, smjestili su nas u dalekom predgrađu Londona u barake u kojima su za vrijeme rata boravili engleski avijatičari. Umivali smo se na vojničkom koritu i sve je to bilo jako skromno kada se usporedi sa kasnijim Igrama. Bila je to prva Olimpijada nakon rata i na njoj nije bilo sportaša iz Njemačke i Japana, što je izazvalo veliko negodovanje među sportašima jer smo bili jedinstvenog stava da sportaši nisu nizašto krivi. Učinak naših sportaša bio je skroman, ni moja vaterpolo momčad nije se proslavila, sjećam se da su nogometaši osvojili medalju. Otvaranje se održalo na stadionu na tadašnjem Wembleyu. Za ono vrijeme, bilo je to veličanstveno otvaranje. Svaka zemlja se pojedinačno predstavljala. Igre je otvorio kralj George VI - prisjetio se nakon 64 godine riječki vaterpolski golman koji je na sljedećim dvjema Olimpijadama, 1952. u Helsinkiju i četiri godine kasnije u Melbourneu, osvojio dvije srebrne medalje. Nekoliko sportaša u Rijeci može se pohvaliti da ima više od jedne olimpijske medalje, no samo je jedan vlasnik dva zlata. Riječanin Valter Matošević dva je najsjajnija odličja donio iz Atlante 1996. i Atene 2004. godine. Uz olimpijska zlata, Matošević je kao vratar rukometne reprezentacije osvajao i medalje na Europskim i svjetskim prvenstvima pa je tako postao najtrofejniji sportaš Grada Rijeke. U Londonu ove godine bit će 45-ero sportaša i sportašica iz Hrvatske. Riječke boje u Londonu branit će biciklist Robert Kišerlovski, streličarka Snježana Pejčić, te vaterpolisti Samir Barač i Igor Hinić. Baraču i Hiniću ovo će biti četvrti nastup na Olimpijadi.

Deveta paraolimpijada I na Paraolimpijadi Rijeka redovito ima svoje predstavnike. Popis putnika za Paraolimpijadu u Londonu još nije definiran, no jedna od putnica u London trebala bi biti i atletičarka Milka Milinković. Najtrofejnija hrvatska paraolimpijka osvojila je osam paraolimpijskih medalja u atletici. Ako otputuje u London bit će joj to deveta Paraolimpijada, čime bi postala svjetska rekorderka po nastupima na Paraolimpijadi.

Pejčić competing with a full hit with her air gun in Beijing.

Rijeka citizens in London 1948 At the Olympic Games in London 1948, Rijeka’s water-polo players took part, the late Ivica Jobo Curtini and Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić. The former water-polo goal keeper, Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, now 87 years old, took part in the London Olympic Games as a 23 year old boy and those were his first Olympic Games. - It was the post-war period, poverty ruled and the trip by luxury train to London was, for us athletes, one of the most exciting periods of our lives. I remember our first meeting with customs officers who were checking whether we had smuggled cigarettes or alcohol. We had been told that we could sell such things in England for a good price and our sports bags contained little equipment, leaving space for a bottle or two of homemade plum brandy. Although one colleague broke his bottle and the smell of brandy steadily diffused through the train station, the customs officers let us go and our plum brandies reached London. These bottles increased our pocket money, which for the Olympic Games was 1 dollar a day. We were welcomed by a post-war, devastated London, not at all the glamorous city we were expecting, and the British were using a sort of points system for the purchase of food. There was no Olympic village; accommodation was provided in distant London suburbs in barracks which, during the war period, had hosted British pilots. We washed ourselves in the military baths and everything was very modest compared to earlier Games. These were the first post-war Olympic Games and there were no athletes from Germany and Japan which caused disapproval amongst athletes as we all thought that it was not the athletes' fault for what had happened. The results achieved by our athletes were modest including those of my water-polo team, but I remember that our soccer players won a medal. The opening ceremony took place at Wembley stadium, which for that period was magnificent and each country was presented individually. The Games were opened by King George VI, remembered after 64 years by Rijeka’s water-polo goal keeper who in the subsequent two Olympic Games, the first in 1952 in Helsinki and then four years later in Melbourne, won two silver medals. Several athletes from Rijeka can boast of having won more than one Olympic medal, but only one has been the owner of two golds. The Rijeka citizen Valter Matošević brought the two shiniest medals from Atlanta in 1996 and from Athens in 2004. Besides his Olympic gold medals, Matošević, as goal keeper of the national handball team, also won medals at the European and World Championships and is the City of Rijeka athlete to have won the most trophies. london this year will welcome 45 athletes from Croatia. In London, Rijeka’s colours will be defended by cyclist Robert Kišerlovski, female archer Snježana Pejčić and water-polo players Samir Barač and Igor Hinić. This will be the fourth performance at the Olympic Games for Barač and Hinić.

The ninth Paralympic Games Rijeka is also regularly represented at the Paralympic Games. The list of passengers for the Paralympic Games in London has not yet been determined, but one of the participants will probably be the female athlete Milka Miliković. This Croatian Paralympic Games athlete with the most trophies has won eight athletics medals. If she travels to London, this will be her ninth Paralympics which will make her the world record holder with regard to performances at the Paralympic Games.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti

Bazen za skokove upotpunio je kompleks riječkoga bazena A diving pool has completed the Rijeka Swimming Pool Complex

Bazeni tik uz more

Swimming pools right by the sea

Kompleks Bazena Kantrida je 2009. godine, kao rezultat arhitektonskog natječaja u organizaciji Međunarodnog olimpijskog odbora i Međunarodnog udruženja za sportske i rekreacijske objekte, osvojio nagradu za sportske i rekreacijske objekte. Bazen je to koji je dobitnik i posebne nagrade Međunarodnoga paraolimpijskog odbora za objekte prilagođene osobama s invaliditetom.

In 2009 the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex won an award for sport and leisure facilities as a result of an architectonic tender organized by the International Olympic Committee and the International Association for Sports and Leisure facilities. It is a facility that has also won a special award assigned by the International Paralympic Committee for facilities adapted to handicapped people.

Brojne nagrade su tako stigle u Rijeku zahvaljujući bazenima, no zbog njih su nagrade i odlazile iz grada jer su

In this way numerous awards have come to Rijeka thanks to its pools, but also due to their presence numerous awards have left the city too as for a few years now, the complex has hosted numerous athletes in a variety of competitions amongst which was the European Championship in Small Swimming Pools and the final of the water-polo Euro League. Medals were won, and were also created in Kantrida. The impressive Rijeka shell is the place where new, young swimming, water-polo or synchronized swimming pearls appear, whilst this series of sports on Kantrida also continues with diving. Divers have waited patiently and their waiting has finally paid off. They have received, as they say, one of the most beautiful diving pools in the world. Architects can claim responsibility for one part whilst the other must be claimed by nature. From the top of the tower whose colours change according to the sun a magnificent view extends over the Kvarner Bay whose blueness is disturbed only by a few small islands. Spectators on the stands with 400 seats in this way experience the beautiful scenic


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bazeni, stari svega nekoliko godina, ugostili brojne sportaše na natjecanjma, među kojima su bili i Europsko prvenstvo u plivanju u malim bazenima te završnica vaterpolske Eurolige. Medalje su odlazile, no medalje se i stvaraju na Kantridi. Impresivna riječka školjka mjesto je nastanka novih mladih bisera plivanja, vaterpola ili sinhroplivanja, a taj niz sportova se na Kantridi nastavio i skokovima u vodu. Skakači su strpljivo čekali i čekanje im se isplatilo. Dobili su, kako kažu, jedan od najljepših bazena za skokove u vodu na svijetu. Za jedan dio posla pobrinuli su se arhitekti, a sve ostalo učinila je priroda. S vrha tornja čije se boje mijenjaju pod suncem, pruža se veličanstven pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev čije plavetnilo narušavaju samo otoci. Gledatelji na tribinama na kojima je 400 sjedećih mjesta tako imaju prekrasnu scensku kulisu, a sportaši vrhunske uvjete za treniranje. U trenutku skoka se ispod njih nalazi bazen veličine 20 puta 25 metara i dubine nešto manje od 5 metara. Sam toranj ima skakaonice na visinama od jednog, tri, pet, sedam i pol te deset metara, a skakače do njih vode stepenice ili dizalo. No, iako je bazen u prvom redu namijenjen skokovima u vodu, na bazenu treniraju i sinhro plivačice koje imaju odlične uvjete jer je bazen dovoljno dubok i opremljen podvodnim zvučnicima. Zbog svoje dubine pogodan je i za tečajeve ronjenja. Obzirom da je tijekom zimskih mjeseci bazen natkriven balonom, sve te aktivnosti se odvijaju svih 12 mjeseci u godini. Bazenom za skokove u vodu zaokružena je riječka priča o riječkom vodenom sportskom parku.

setting and athletes are able to make the most of the excellent conditions. At the moment of the jump, they have under them a 20 by 25 m pool which is slightly less than 5 metres deep. The tower itself disposes of diving boards at heights of one, three, five, seven and a half and ten metres and divers can reach them by steps or from an elevator. Although the primary purpose of the pool is diving, the pool is also used by synchronized swimmers for training sessions, thus being able to experience excellent conditions as the pool is deep enough and equipped with underwater loud-speakers. Thanks to its depth it is also suitable for scuba diving courses. And all this is possible throughout the year as, in the winter months, the pool is covered by a large dome. So the diving pool has completed the story of Rijeka’s Water and Sports Park.


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Novi grad / New city

Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti

Stadion čiju su posebnost primijetili mnogi A stadium whose particularity has been noticed by many people

Kantrida, Rijeka Smješten između stijena s jedne i kristalno plavog, čistog mora s druge strane stadion Kantrida je sigurno jedan od najneobičnijih svjetskih stadiona koji očarava svojom osobnošću. Američki medijski div CNN tako opisuje riječki nogometni stadion na svom popisu osam najneobičnijih svjetskih nogometnih stadiona. Prema CNN-u, Kantrida je jedan od osam svjetskih sportskih čuda, a drušvo joj na popisu odabranih u Europi čine velikani poput francuskog Velodroma, portugalskih stadiona Braga i Madeira, njemačke Allianz Arene te Svangaskard stadiona na Farskim otocima. Uz šest Europskih stadiona koje se obavezno mora posjetiti na popisu su stadion Cape Town u Južnoj Africi i bolivijski stadion Hernando Siles. Kako naglašava CNN, u objašnjenju svog

Located amongst the rocks on one side and by the clean crystal blue sea on the other, the Kantrida Stadium is certainly one of the most unusual stadiums in the world, to be able to enchant those who see it with its personality. The American media giant CNN described Rijeka’s soccer stadium on its list of the eight most unusual world soccer stadiums. According to CNN, Kantrida has been selected amongst the eight world sporting miracles alongside other magnificent European complexes such as the French Velodrome, Portuguese Stadiums in Braga and Madeira, the German Allianz Arena and the Svangaskard Stadium on the Faroe Islands. Besides the six European stadiums that must be visited, the Cape Town Stadium in South Africa and the Bolivian stadium, Hernando Siles also appear on the list. As CNN points out, when explaining their selection, there are thousands of soccer stadiums in the world and everyone is familiar with Maracana, Wembley or Camp Nou and Santiago Bernabeu, but other stadiums should also be visited as they are more than special. For its 100th anniversary, the Kantrida Stadium received deserved recognition. The first game was played there in 1912 and the stadium’s capacity at that time was 10,000 spectators. Rijeka players play their


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izbora, u svijetu je na tisuće nogometnih stadiona i svi znaju za Maracanu, Wembley ili Camp Nou i Santiago Bernabeu no i neke druge stadione treba vidjeti jer su svakako posebni. Stadion Kantrida je za svoj stoti rođendan dobio zasluženo priznanje. Prva je utakmica odigrana 1912. godine, a kapacitet stadiona je 10 000 gledatelja. Svoje utakmice između stijena i mora igraju nogometaši Rijeke, a Kantrida je nekoliko puta ugostila i susrete hrvatske nogometne reprezentacije. Gosti Rijeke uvijek se iznova oduševe stadionom. Da je Kantrida sportska arena jedinstvena po ugođaju, ljepoti i okruženju smatra i bivši igrač Rijeke i reprezentacije. Igrao sam na mnogim stadionima i složio bih se da je Kantrida posebna, drugačija, kada se upale reflektori dobijemo jedno gotovo bajkovito okruženje i svi nogometaši koji dođu na ovaj stadion oduševljeni su njegovim izgledom, ali i njegovom akustikom. Stadion Kantrida sigurno nije najmoderniji, no činjenica da je ukrao djelić prostora između staroga kamenoloma i mora čini ga posebnim i toliko drugačijim od drugih stadiona. Kantrida tako izgleda kao da je dio nekih prošlih vremena zarobljenih u sadašnjosti te je sigurno jedan od simbola grada i atrakcija za svakoga tko posjeti Rijeku. Za Kantridu se veže još jedna zanimljiva priča. Oduvijek je postojalo natjecanje igrača, ali i prolaznika u ispucavanju lopte. Pravilo je da se sa centra igrališta moraju prebaciti stijene odnosno da lopta mora završiti na cesti iznad stadiona. Bilo je tisuće i tisuće pokušaja, no svega je, tvrde svjedoci, nekoliko igrača kroz 100 godina dugu povijest uspjelo izvesti tu gotovo nemoguću misiju.

games between rocks and the sea, and Kantrida has hosted the Croatian National Soccer Team's games several times too. Rijeka’s guests are always thrilled with the stadium every time they see it. Even according to the opinion of the former Rijeka and national team players, the Kantrida sport arena is unique for its atmosphere, its beauty and its surroundings. I have played in many stadiums and I agree that Kantrida is special and different especially when the reflector lights are turned on and we are surrounded by a fairytale background. Every player who comes to this stadium is thrilled not only with its appearance but also with its acoustics. The Kantrida Stadium is certainly not the most modern stadium in the world, but the fact that it steals a small part of the area between the old quarry and sea makes it particularly special and different from the others. Kantrida seems to be part of the past, imprisoned within the present and is surely one of the city’s symbols and an attraction for everyone who visits it. There is another interesting story linked with Kantrida. There has always been competition between players and between passer-bys too with regard to who will hit the ball the hardest. The only rule is that they have to hit and throw the ball over the rocks, from the centre of the pitch - that is onto the road above the stadium. There have been thousands of attempts, but according to witnesses only a few players have achieved this almost impossible mission in its 100 year history.


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Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka

Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich

Okolica Rijeke bogata je šetnicama The Rijeka surroundings have a wealth of footpaths

Šetnjom do

dobrog raspoloženja

Walking in order to achieve a good mood


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Vjerojatno ne postoji aktivnost starija od šetnje. Od najranijih dana, rođenja, ljudsko biće teži jednome cilju, da prohoda, prošeće. I od tog sretnog trenutka sve do posljednjeg dana ljudi šeću. Nerijetko i nesvjesni te radnje i okovani žurbom 21. Stoljeća, vječito nekud jureći, tražimo komadić slobodnoga vremena za sebe i svoje bližnje. I upravo zbog toga je sve više onih koji svakim mogući trenutak koriste za "bijeg" prema jednoj od stotina označenih šetnica i pješačkih staza na Kvarneru. Ono što veseli jest da je prosjek od 8 do 10 tisuća dnevnih koraka čovjeka opasno ugrožen uz tisuće kilometara označenoga raja za ljubitelje šetnje i prirode.   

Putovima "Zlatnog otoka" Otok Krk, najnaseljeniji i uz Cres površinom najveći hrvatski otok pravi je mamac stotinama tisuća turista koji godišnje, a najviše ljeti, borave na njemu. Prometno povezan mostom i zračnom lukom, Krk je najdublje uronio u europsko tlo.  Preko 300 kilometara pješačkih staza čine ga pogodnim za otkrivanje. Sa 2500 sunčanih sati godišnje i s više od 1500 biljnih vrsta kao i autohtonih životinja, Krk je zahvalan svojim precima i težacima koji su generacijama tabali putove svjedočanstva burne prošlosti "Zlatnoga otoka".  Šetnice Krka baštine i povijest Hrvata. Naime 1100. godine nastala je Bašćanska ploča koja predstavlja povijest hrvatskoga naroda i razvitak hrvatskog pisma - glagoljice. Ploča potječe iz crkve u Jurandvoru, kod Baške i upravo će šetnja jednom od 16 obilježenih staza ukupne dužine 85 kilometara podsjetiti na slavnu povijest toga malog mjesta. Detaljnije upoznavanje s pismom Hrvata, glagoljicom, otkriva se nešto zapadnije. Prolazeći putom glagoljaša, šetač će se u Općini Dobrinj upoznati sa 37 kamenih ploča na kojima su uklesane poruke i glagoljska abeceda. Mali predah obavezan je u Čižićima uz mazanje ljekovitim blatom. Uz brojne staze, nezaobilazna točka svake pješačke karte su Punat i otočić Košljun. Pastirske staze vode do najvišeg, 541 metra visokog vrha otoka, Velog vrha. Na najnižoj točki nalazi se otočić Košljun, posljednje počivalište Katarine Frankopan, najpoznatije dame te kneževske obitelji. 

Šetnja Cresom uz dobroga duha Macmalića Uz riznicu povijesnog, kulturnog i ekološkog bogatstva, šetnice otoka  Cresa skrivaju legendu o dobrome šumskom duhu Macmaliću. Narodno vjerovanje kaže kako je to malen, vrlo lijep čovjek uvijek spreman rado pomoći u nevolji. Živi u jamama, u kojima ima lijepe mramorne sobe u kojima skriva veliko blago. Kad bi netko od prolaznika bacio kamenčić u jamu to bi satima odzvanjalo, Macmalinić bi se tada naljutio i naveo prolaznika na krivi put. Stoga kad bi se netko naglo obogatio na otoku, mještani bi znali reći kako ima skrivenog Macmalinića u kući. U šumama pokraj Belog šetači često nailaze na panjeve oko bijele stijene, za što se vjeruje kako su oni stolovi malog šumskog duha. Na najvišem dijelu otoka su područje Tramuntane i središnji gradić, Beli. Dva posebna ornitološka creska rezervata Pod Okladi i Kruni mjesto su posebnoga doživljaja. Naime, njima caruju ogromne ptice grabljivice, bjeloglavi supovi. Za

There is probably no known activity older than walking. Since the beginning, since birth, human beings have a tendency to one purpose, to walk and to take a walk. And from that happy moment until their dying day, people walk. Often unaware of the activity and bound by the 21st century rush, we are always running somewhere and look for a piece of free time for ourselves and for our nearest and dearest. And it is precisely for that reason that there has been a growing number of those who in every possible moment "run" towards one of the hundred marked trails and footpaths in the Kvarner area. Generally people walk from between 8 and 10 thousand steps a day - just think how many they could walk if they considered the kilometres of marked footpaths at nature enthusiasts’ disposal.   

Along the trails of the "Golden Island" The island of Krk, the most inhabited and, besides Cres, the largest Croatian island has been a real lure for thousands of tourists who annually, and particularly during the summer, stay there. With regard to traffic, it is connected by the bridge and airport, Krk has dived most deeply into European soil.  Over 300 kilometres of footpaths make it specific for discovery. With 2,500 hours of sunshine per year and over 1,500 species of flora as well as autochthonous animals, Krk is grateful to its ancestors and land workers who, over the generations, have trampled hard over the testimonial trails of the turbulent past of the "Golden Island".   Krk’s trails are the heritage and history of Croatian peoples. In fact, in 1100 the Baška Tablet was created, representing the history of the Croatian people and the development of the Croatian Glagolitic alphabet. The tablet originates from the church in Jurandvor, close to Baška, and faithfully the walk through one of the 16 marked footpaths with a total length of 85 kilometres will remind us of the famous history of that small place.


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zaštitu oko 70 parova ovih strvinara brine se ekocentar Caput Insulae Beli. Prolazeći trima obilježenim kružnim stazama Tramuntane svi putovi odvest će vas do 4 tisuće godina stare gradine – Belog.     

Doživljaj Zelenoga srca Hrvatske Nebrojeni kilometri označenih i skrovitih šetnica Gorskog Kotara skrivaju se ispod ogromne bioraznolikosti stoljetnih šuma koje prevladavaju tim područjem. Teško je odlučiti je li ljepši ljeti na prosječnih 17 ili zimi na nekoliko stupnjeva ispod ništice prekriven snježnim pokrivačem. Sastavljen od devet teritorijalnih jedinica, Gorski Kotar predstavlja idealno mjesto za bijeg od svakodnevnog stresa. Iako povezan autocestom, pravi doživljaj putovanja otkriva cesta Lujzijana, građena za vrijeme Napoleona. Ona je prvi doticaj sa nestvarno lijepom prirodom. I dok su sve goranske šetnice ravnopravne za okruglim stolom, jedna je ipak posebnija. Mrkopaljski planinarski put, složit će se mnogi, najljepši je planinarski put u Hrvatskoj. Samarske i Bijele stijene dominiraju tim područjem. Smještene na oko 1300 metara visine odlikuju ih i do pedeset metara visoke stijene. Nerijetko se među nedostupnim pukotinama pronađe i vječni snijeg. No, pravi planinarski raj predstavljaju Samarske stijene koje čini dvadesetak kamenih stijena koje paraju prostrano zelenilo šuma. Šetnja najdužom stazom do Samarskih stijena traje čak 6 sati i vrlo je zahtjevna. No, tko je jednom prođe uvijek joj se vraća, kao i uostalom cijelom Gorskom Kotaru.

More detailed facts about the Croatian Glagolitic alphabet is revealed in more western areas. Passing along the Glagolitic path in the Municipality of Dobrinj, a walker will be introduced to the 37 stone boards with their chiselled messages and Glagolitic alphabet letters. A small pause must be made in Čižići where you should try to spread your body with the medicinal mud. Besides the numerous paths, the unavoidable point of each walking map is Punat and the island of Košljun. Shepherds’ trails will take you to the Veli Vrh, a 541 metre high island peak. On the lowest point is the islet of Košljun, the last resting place of Katarina Frankopan, the most famous lady of this noble family. 

Walk through the island of Cres alongside the good ghost, Macmalić Besides the treasury of the historical, cultural and ecological wealth, the island of Cres trails hide the legend of the good ghost Macmalić. According to popular legend, he was a small, very beautiful man always ready to help anyone in trouble. He lived in holes, where he had beautiful marble rooms in which he hid his treasure. When someone threw a stone into the hole, the sound could be heard for hours. This is when Macmalinić became angry and indicated the wrong way to passer-bys. That is why, when a person from the island suddenly becomes rich, the local people would say that he had hidden Macmalinić in his house. In the forests close to Beli, walkers often found trunks around the white rock which were believed to be the tables of the small forest ghost. On the highest part of the island is the Tramuntana area and the small central town of Beli. Two special ornithological Cres reservoirs, Pod Okladi and Kruni, are places with a special sensation. In fact, they are ruled by enormous predatory birds, the griffon vulture. The Caput Insuale Beli Eco Centre takes care of the protection of around 70 pairs of these vultures. Passing along the three marked circular paths of the Tramuntana, all the trails will take you to the four thousand year old castle of Beli.

Experience the Green Heart of Croatia Numerous kilometres of marked and hidden footpaths in the Gorski kotar area are hidden under the enormous bio-diversity of the hundred year old forests that cover most of the area. It is hard to decide if it is more beautiful during the summer, at an average of 17 °C or in the winter, at a few degrees below zero, covered with snow. Made up of nine territorial units, Gorski kotar represents an ideal place to escape from everyday stress. Although linked by the highway, the real excursion uncovers the Lujzijana road, constructed in the Napoleonic period. It is a real touch with idealistically beautiful nature. And whilst all Gorski kotar’s trails are equally beautiful, there is however, one that particularly stands out. The Mrkopalj hiking path, many will agree, is the most beautiful hiking path in Croatia.  The Samarske and Bijele Rocks dominate over the area. Located at around 1,300 metres above sea level, they are "decorated" with, in some places, fifty metre high, rocks. Within the unreachable fissures snow can often be found. But the real hiking paradise is represented by the Samarske Rocks created of around twenty rocks that rip up the expansive green forests. The walk along the lengthiest trail to reach the Samarske Rocks can be up to 6 hours long and is very demanding. But, those who do it once always come back to it as well as to the whole Gorski kotar area.


Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time

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Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić

Riječani su prije stotinu godina dočekali brod-simbol herojske požrtvovnosti u spašavanju Titanicovih brodolomaca A hundred years ago, Rijeka citizens welcomed a boat-symbol of heroic devotion which saved the Titanic castaways

Carpathia

- krenula u Rijeku i završila u povijesti

The Carpathia - left for Rijeka and finished in history Rijeka – New York – Rijeka

Rijeka – New York – Rijeka

Da nije bilo Carpathije, pitanje je što bismo danas uopće znali o posljednjim trenucima Titanica. Sudbina jednoga broda one je jezovite noći prije stotinu godina postala neraskidivo povezana sa sudbinom drugog. Zato će u povijest ući zajednički.

If it hadn’t been for the Carpathia, we probably wouldn’t know anything about the last moments of the Titanic. On that terrible night, a hundred years ago, the destiny of one ship became unbreakably linked with that of the other. That is why they entered history together.

Okvir za priču o pojavi broda Carpathia u najglasovitijoj pomorskoj nesreći 20. stoljeća stvorila je brodarska kuća Cunard Line, koja je 1903. otvorila redovnu putničku

The structure for the story about the appearance of the Carpathia in the most famous maritime accident of 20th century was created by the Cunard Line, a shipping company


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liniju na relaciji Rijeka – New York – Rijeka. Brodovi su na toj liniji bili uposleni prijevozom ekonomskih emigranata iz srednje Europe u Novi svijet. Izvana, mnogima su ostali prepoznatljivi po crvenim dimnjacima s crnom vrpcom pri vrhu, te bijelom razdjelnom linijom između crnog i crvenog dijela trupa. Brod kojim je započeo niz putovanja na toj relaciji bio je Aurania, a slijedili su ga: Pannonia, Slavonia, Ultonia, Carmania, Franconia, Ivernia, Laconia, Saxonia i Carpathia. Za potonji brod, Carpathiju, u dokumentima je zabilježeno da je porinut u brodogradilištu Swan & Hunter u Newcastleu, bio dugačak 165 metara, širok 20 metara, zapremnine 13.564 BRT-a. U jednom smjeru preko Atlantica u prosjeku je putovao 18-20 dana.

Kobna noć Na put u povijest Carpathia je zaplovila 11. travnja 1912. krećući iz njujorške luke prema Rijeci sa 700 putnika. Rutinsko obavljanje poslova posadi je Carpathije u noći 15. travnja iznenadno narušeno SOS signalima. Kapetan Arthur Henry Rostron učinio je ono što se u takvim trenucima od njega i očekivalo – naredio je skretanje s redovne rute i plovidbu najvećom brzinom prema izvoru signala, udaljenom 58 milja. Maksimalna brzina broda bila je 15 čvorova na sat, ali – zahvaljujući isključivanju grijanja, da bi se svu energiju usmjerilo kaparnom stroju – uspio je postići čak 17,5 čvorova. Na mjestu nesreće pojavio se sat i 40 minuta nakon potonuća, u 4.10. Spašavanje stradalih trajalo je četiri sata. U noći koja je zauvijek progutala 1459 putnika i članova posade, jedan od članova Carpathijine posade, 18-godišnji

which, in 1903, opened a regular passenger service on the Rijeka - New York - Rijeka route. Ships on that line transported emigrants from central Europe to the New World. Of the outside, many people remember the recognizable red chimneys with their black ribbons towards the top and a white dividing line between the black and the red part of the hull. The ship that first travelled this route was the Aurania and this was followed by the Pannonia, the Slavonia, the Ultonia, the Carmania, the Franconia, the Ivernia, the Laconia, the Saxonia and the Carpathia. According to data found in documents, the latter ship, the Carpathia, was launched from the Swan & Hunter ship yard in Newcastle, it was 165 metres long, 20 metres wide and had a capacity of 13,564 GRT. The average journey in one direction over the Atlantic lasted around 18-20 days.

That catastrophic night The Carpathia sailed into history on 11th April 1912 departing from the Port of New York and heading to Rijeka with 700 passengers. On the night of 15th April, the routine work activities were suddenly violated by SOS signals. Captain Arthur Henry Rostron did what was expected of him in such a situation – he ordered a diversion from the regular route and sailed at full speed towards the signal source, some 58 miles away. The maximum boat speed was 15 knots per hour, but when they turned off the heating system in order to direct all of their energy towards the steam-engine, it even managed to reach 17.5 knots. It reached the place of the accident one hour


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...u povijest je Carpathia zaplovila 11. travnja 1912. krećući iz njujorške luke prema Rijeci sa 700 putnika. Rutinsko obavljanje poslova posadi je Carpathije u noći 15. travnja iznenadno narušeno SOS signalima... ...the Carpathia sailed into history on 11th April 1912 departing from the Port of New York and heading to Rijeka with 700 passengers. On the night of 15th April, the routine work activities were suddenly violated by SOS signals... Riječanin Giuseppe (Josip) Car, hitro se pridružio kolegama u dramatičnom izvlačenju preživjelih na sigurnu palubu. U tom je trenutku imao tek nešto više od jednog mjeseca staža na Carpathiji. Na brodu se zaposlio 7. ožujka te godine u Liverpoolu, u popisu posade ubilježen pod rednim brojem 304. Nije bio jedini Hrvat na Carpathiji, na brodu ih je radilo preko 70 (četvrtina posade!), mahom iz Hrvatskog primorja i Istre. Car je obavljao konobarske poslove, dobivajući plaću od tri funte. Iz čamaca što su plutali morem, on i ostali članovi posade uspjeli su podići na palubu 712 osoba. U rukama mu je tada ostao prsluk za spašavanje s nepoznata putnika. Kao podsjetnik na dramatičnu noć, Car će ponijeti prsluk u Rijeku.

Veličanstven doček Carpathia je s brodolomcima okrenula pramac u suprotnom smjeru i zaplovila prema New Yorku, u koji je stigla nakon trodnevne plovidbe, u večernjim satima 18. travnja. Nastavak prekinutog putovanja prema Rijeci uslijedio je 20. travnja u 16 sati. U njenu luku stiže 6. svibnja, tada već s imenom koje su mediji prenijeli gotovo cijelom Zemljinom kuglom. Stanovnici Rijeke pohitali su dočekati Carpathiju, a ono što je uslijedilo suvremenici opisuju riječju "ovacije". Drukčije nije ni moglo biti. Carpathia je stigla pred njihove oči kao brod-simbol herojske brige za brodolomce, simbol nesebične ljudskosti, koji to može velikim djelom zahvaliti svojoj hrvatskoj posadi. Takav je ostalo u svjetskoj pomorskoj povijesti do danas. Nešto od tog uzbuđenja kao da može naslutiti i današnji posjetitelj riječke luke, s pogledom na Orlandov (u Carpathijino vrijeme Rudolfov) gat, mjesto s kojeg je prije stotinjak godina Carpathia isplovljavala put New Yorka i na kojem su Riječani oduševljeno dočekali njezin povratak. Samu Carpathiju, dakako, na tomu mjestu danas ipak ne treba očekivati. U Prvom svjetskom ratu služila je za prijevoz vojne opreme, pa ju je 17. srpnja 1918. s tri torpeda pogodila njemačka podmornica. Potonula je nakon dva i pol sata. Podjednako, ako ne i veće uzbuđenje može se naslutiti u susretu s prslukom za spašavanje, onim istim što ga je mladi konobar Car donio u Rijeku. To je jedini prsluk s Titanika koji se nalazi u Europi, a pohranjen je u Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskoga primorja. Središnji je eksponat izložbe Titanic/Carpathia, otvorene u tom Muzeju 13. travnja ove godine, a koja traje do 15. prosinca.

and 40 minutes after the ship had sunk, at 4.10 am. The rescue of victims lasted for four hours. On the night in which 1,459 passengers and crew disappeared forever, one of the Carpathia's crew members, 18 year old Rijeka citizen Giuseppe (Josip) Car, quickly joined his colleagues in the dramatic rescue of survivors to the safety of the deck. At that time he had only been working little over a month on the Carpathia. He had been employed on 7th March 1912 in Liverpool and was registered as part of the crew list under the number 304. He was not the only Croat on the Carpathia; there were over 70 people (a quarter of the total crew), all from Croatian Coastal areas and from Istria. Car was a waiter and his salary amounted to three pounds. He and the rest of the crew members managed to bring 712 people onto the deck from the floating lifeboats. That was when one of the unknown passengers placed his lifejacket in the waiter’s hands. As a reminder of that dramatic night, Car took the lifejacket back to Rijeka.

Magnificent welcome The Carpathia, with its castaways on board, turned its bow in the opposite direction and sailed towards New York where it arrived after a three-day long journey, during the evening hours of 18th April. The ship’s interrupted journey to Rijeka continued on 20th April at 4 pm. It reached the Port of Rijeka on 6th May with a, by now recognizable, name which the media had transmitted around the world. Rijeka inhabitants hurried to welcome the Carpathia and what followed is described by contemporaries as "ovations". Nothing different could be expected. The Carpathia arrived before them as a boat-symbol of the heroic care for castaways, a symbol of unselfish humanity thanks to the mainly Croatian crew. That image has been kept in the world’s maritime history until today. Some of this excitement can even be sensed by today’s visitors to the Port of Rijeka, looking over the Orlando Pier (which in the period of the Carpathia is known as Rudolf’s Pier), the place from which, a hundred years ago, the Carpathia had departed for New York and the place on which enthusiastic Rijeka inhabitants welcomed its return. However, the Carpathia cannot be expected at this place today. In the First World War the ship was used to transport military equipment and then, on 17th July 1918, it was hit by three torpedoes from a German submarine. It sank in two and half hours. The same, if not greater, excitement can be sensed by observing the lifejacket, that same one brought by the young waiter Car to Rijeka. It is the only lifejacket from the Titanic located in Europe and is preserved in the Rijeka Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral. Here it represents the central item of the Titanic/Carpathia exhibition which was opened in the afore mentioned Museum on 13th April this year. The exhibition will remain open until 15th December.


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ZOOM Egon Hreljanović

Egon Hreljanović rođen je u Rijeci 1951. Prva fotografska iskustva stekao je od oca Viktora. Kao član riječkog fotokluba Color, prvi puta izlaže 1969. Do danas je izlagao na više od stotinjak izložbi u zemlji i inozemstvu, od toga četrnaest puta samostalno. Godine 1984. profesionalno se posvećuje fotografiji zaposlivši se u reklamnoj agenciji OZEHA kao fotograf i propagandist. Godine 1986. primljen je u Zajednicu umjetnika Hrvatske (danas HZSU), te prihvaća slobodnu profesiju kao svoje trajno opredjeljenje. Od 1995. član je i HDLU-a Rijeke. Bavi se reklamnom fotografijom u turizmu i industriji, te primijenjenom fotografijom u oplemenjivanju javnih prostora. Autorske je fotografije objavio u mnogim periodičkim i monografskim publikacijama. Surađuje s ustanovama čija je djelatnost očuvanje kulturne baštine, te je tako, uz ostavštinu svoga oca, stvorio bogatu fotoarhivu i od zaborava sačuvao mnoge spomenike kulture i umjetnička djela. Uz neizbježnu digitalnu fotografiju, izlaže i crnobijelu fotografiju koju razvija u svom laboratoriju klasičnim postupkom.

Egon Hreljanović was born in Rijeka in 1951. His first photographic experience is linked to his father Viktor. As a member of Rijeka’s Color Photoclub, he exhibited for the first time in 1969. To date he has exhibited his works in over a hundred exhibitions in Croatia and abroad, of which fourteen were individual exhibitions. In 1984 he dedicated his profession to photography and was employed by the OZEHA Advertisement Agency as a photographer and propagandist. In 1986 he was admitted into the Croatian Artists Association (today's Croatian Freelance Artists’ Association) and accepted the freelance profession as his permanent commitment. Since 1995 he has been a member of the Rijeka Croatian Association of Artists. He deals with advertisement photography for the tourism and industry sectors as well as with applied photography with regard to the decoration of public areas. His signature photographs have been published in numerous periodical and monographic publications. He has been collaborating with institutes whose activities are based on the preservation of cultural heritage, and in this way, besides his father's inheritance, he has created a rich photographic archive and saved numerous cultural monuments and works of art from oblivion. Besides the unavoidable digital photography, he has been exhibiting black and white photographs developed in his own laboratory using a classical procedure.


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Jedra


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Leptiri


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Stabla


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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Lipanj / June 2012 13. - 15.6.

Dani Sv. Vida

Lipanj je mjesec blagdana Sv. Vida, zaštitnika Grada Rijeke. Punih tjedan dana traju sportski, zabavni, kulturni i vjerski događaji kojima se obilježava ova svečanost. Od 13. - 15.6. na raznim lokacijama u gradu, ne propustite cjelodnevne programe obilježavanja Dana Sv. Vida. 13 - 15.6

St Vitus days

June is the month of the St Vitus holiday, the patron saint of the City of Rijeka. Sport, entertainment, cultural and spiritual events, with which this holiday will be celebrated will last for an entire week. From 13 – 15.6 do not miss the full day programs to celebrate St Vitus Days held in various locations in the town.

6. - 10.6. Fiumare Kako bi sve bilo u znaku mora, mjesec započinje Kvarnerskim festivalom mora i pomorske tradicije - Fiumare – koji se od 6. 10. lipnja odvija na gradskim lokacijama. 7. - 10.6. Fiumanka Od 7. do 10. lipnja na redu je Fiumanka, 13. izdanje Međunarodne jedriličarske regate. Na Putničkoj obali održat će se Sajam jedrenja. 12. - 17.6. Rijeka sport week Od 12. - 17.6. traje Rijeka sport week Primorski cup - festival sporta, tolerancije i razvoja djece i mladih. 24. - 25.6. Gradsko prvenstvo u sinhro plivanju U ovom se mjesecu obilježava još jedan značajan sportski događaj. Od 24. - 25.6. na Bazenima Kantrida održat će se Gradsko prvenstvo u sinhro plivanju. 19.6. - 14.7. Riječke ljetne noći Sredinom lipnja započinje i najznačajnija riječka kulturna manifestacija - Riječke ljetne noći koje od 19.6. - 14.7. obiluju zanimljivim koncertima i predstavama na različitim lokacijama u gradu. 21.6. - 10.9. 7. ljeto na Gradini Isto tako, od 21.6. - 10.9. na Trsatskoj gradini traje 7. Ljeto na Gradini koje iz godine u godinu okuplja sve veći broj poklonika, ponajprije zbog jedinstvene atmosfere na zanimljivim koncertima i ostalim kulturnim programima. 8. - 23.6. Kulturni centar Kalvarija I Kulturni centar Kalvarija ima sadržajan lipanj. U danima 8, 9, 15. i 16. lipnja na programu je Izgubljeno kazalište - premijera predstave Dječjega dramskog ansambla "Čudesni oblačak" u 19

6 - 10.6 Fiumare To keep it all in the sign of the sea, the month begins with the Kvarner festival of sea and maritime tradition - Fiumare –which takes place from 6th – 10th June at various locations throughout the town. 7 - 10.6 Fiumanka Fiumanka will take place from 7th to 10th June and is the 13th edition of this International Sailing Regatta whilst in the same period on Putnička obala the Sailing Fair will be held. 12 - 17.6 Rijeka sport week From 12 - 17.6 the Rijeka sport week Primorski cup will take place – a festival of sport, tolerance and development of children and youth. 24 - 25.6 Town synchronised swimming championships Another important sporting event will also be held this month from 24 - 25.6 at the Kantrida Swimming Pools where the Town synchronised swimming championships will be taking place.. 19.6 - 14.7 Rijeka Summer Nights In mid June is the most important Rijeka cultural event – the Rijeka Summer Nights that in the period from 19.6 – 14.7 will be full of concerts and performances at various locations in the city 21.6 - 10.9 7th Summer on Gradina Also, from 21.6 - 10.9 at Trsat Castle the 7th Summer on Gradina event will take place, which from year to year brings together a growing number of admirers, primarily due to its unique atmosphere at the interesting concerts and other cultural programs. 8 - 23.6 Kalvarija Cultural centre Kalvarija Cultural centre also has June full of interesting shows. On 8th, 9th, 15th and 16th June the Lost Theatre is on the programme with a premiere of the Children's drama ensemble performance "Wonderful little cloud" at 7pm, whilst on 16th and 17th on the summer terrace of Kalvarija is Mišn imposibl (Mission impossible) – the Ri Teatar’s summer comedy hit. The 2011/2012 season will close on 23rd June. with the best of Kuc Kuc Cabaret


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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

sati; a 16. i 17. na ljetnoj terasi Kalvarije - Mišn imposibl - ljetna hit komedija Ri Teatra. 23. lipnja zatvara se sezona 2011./2012. - The best of kuc kuc cabaret - najbolji humoristični program Ri Teatra iz protekle, u 21 sat. 28.6. MIK - Melodija Istre i Kvarnera Kao "šećer na kraju", Rijeka je 28. lipnja domaćin putujućeg Festivala MIK - Melodija Istre i Kvarnera. 20.6. - 12.9. Astronomski centar Rijeka Treba napomenuti i da se u Astronomskom centru od 20.6. - 12.9. organizira program za strane turiste.

–the Ri Teatar’s finest humoristic programme of the past year, at 9 pm. 28.6 MIK - Melodies of Istria and Kvarner Festival And as a the cherry on the top, on 28th June, Rijeka will host the travelling MIK - Melodies of Istria and the Kvarner Festival. 20.6 - 12.9 Astronomy Centre Rijeka We should also mention that in the period from 20.6 - 12.9 the Astronomy Centre will be organizing a programme for foreign tourists.

Srpanj / July 2012 19.6. - 14.7.

19.6 - 14.7

Riječke ljetne noći se odvijaju na nesvakidašnjim lokacijama. U prostorijama bivše tvornice Torpedo 2.7. izvodi se Carmina burana u 21.30 sati. Dan kasnije, te 4. i 5. srpnja na plaži ispod OŠ Grivica pogledajte Baba Jaga je snijela jaje, u 21.30 sati. Na Trgu Grivica, 7. srpnja, na programu je Cavalleria rusticana, u 21.30 sati, a 9. i 10.7. na Trgu M. V. Ilirija - Ćelava pjevačica, u 21.30 sati. U nekadašnjoj Tvornici papira - Harteri 11. srpnja izvodi se Antigona, u 21.30 sati, a 12.7. Na pozornici HNK Ivan pl. Zajca - Laginjina izložba, u 21.30 sati. Predstava Hamleta u selu Mrduša Donja na programu je 13. i 14. srpnja na Trgu M. V. Ilirija u 21.30 sati; a 13.7. će se u Tvornici papira - Hartera – održati koncert Riječke filharmonije, u 21.30 sati. U Vili Ružić na Pećinama 16. srpnja pogledajte koncert zbora Opere, u 21.30 sati. Dan kasnije, 17. srpnja na portiću na Kantridi na redu su Mirisi, zlato i tamjan, u 21.30 sati. Riječke ljetne noći završavaju 19. srpnja na krovu Tower centra Rijeka uz Blue butterfly u 21.30 sati.

Rijeka Summer Nights will be held at the most unusual locations. In the former Torpedo factory, on 2.7 the Carmina burana will take place at 9.30 pm. A day later, and also on on 4th and 5th July, you can see a performance by Baba Jaga snijela jaje, at 9.30 pm on the beach below the Elementary School Grivica. The Cavalleria rusticana programme will take place on 7th July in Grivica Square at 9.30 pm whilst on 9th and 10th July at the M.V. Ilirik Square there is The Bald Soprano, at 9.30 pm. In the former Paper factory – Hartera, on 11th July at 9.30 pm Antigona will be held whilst on 12.7 on the stage of the CNT Ivan pl. Zajc at 9.30 pm the Laginjina izložba (Laginja's Exhibition) will be held. A performance of Hamlet in the village of Mrduša Donja is on the programme on 13th and 14th July on M.V. Ilirik Square at 9.30 pm; on 13.7 at the Paper factory – Hartera the Rijeka Philharmonic Orchestra will be performing at 9.30 pm. In Villa Ružić in the Pećine District on 16th July do not miss the concert by Opera Chore, at 9.30 pm. A day later, on 17th July in the small port of Kantrida Fragrances, gold and frankincense will take place at 9.30 pm. The closing ceremony of Rijeka Summer Nights will be held on 19 July at the Tower center Rijeka roof with the Blue Butterfly performance at 9.30 pm.

Riječke ljetne noći

Rijeka Summer Nights


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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

14. - 21.7. Astronomski centar Rijeka Od 14. - 21.7. Astronomski centar Rijeka programima obilježava obljetnicu spuštanja čovjeka na Mjesec.

14 - 21.7 Astronomy Centre Rijeka In the period from 14 - 21.7 the Astronomy Centre Rijeka will be celebrating the anniversary of man landing on the Moon.

19. - 21.7. Hartera U prostorima Hartere 20. i 21. srpnja mladi će uživati na Hartera festivalu urbane glazbe na kojem nastupaju svjetski poznata imena.

19 - 21.7 Hartera Young people can enjoy the Hartera festival of urban music on 20th and 21st July at Hartera venues, in which world-famous names will participate.

Kolovoz / August 2012 14. - 15.8.

Velika gospa

Najtopliji ljetni mjesec u znaku je velikog crvenog blagdana - Velike gospe. Dan ranije 14.8. u crkvi Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije svečani koncert organizira HGU PGŽ, primorske pjesme izvodit će Josa Butorac. Na sam blagdan 15.8. u Svetištu Majke Božje Trsatske pridružite se tisućama hodočasnika koji za Velu Gospu pohode Trsat. 14. - 15.8.

The Feast of the Assumption

The hottest summer month is in the sign of a great ecclesiastical holiday - The Feast of the Assumption whilst before, on 14.8 in the church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary there will be a ceremonial concert organized by the Croatian Music Union – County of Primorje and Gorski kotar and littoral songs will be performed by Joso Butorac. On day of the holiday itself, 15.8, in the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Trsat join thousands of pilgrims visiting Trsat for the holiday of the Assumption.

Rujan / September 2012 20. - 23.9. Florijana Rujan u Rijeci obilježavaju dva sajma. Od 20. do 23. na mostu kraj hotela Kontinental posjetite Florijanu, sajam cvijeća i plodova jeseni.

20 - 23.9 Florijana September in Rijeka is marked with two Fairs. From 20th to 23rd on the bridge near the Hotel Continental, visit Florijana, a Fair of flowers and the fruits of autumn.

15. - 16.9. Ki challenge Od 15. - 16.9. održava se 10. pustolovna utrka Ki challenge.

15 - 16.9 Ki challenge From 15 - 16.9 the 10th Ki Challenge adventure race will be held.

28. - 30.9. Kulturni centar Kalvarija Kulturni centar Kalvarija nakon ljetne pauze starta s komedijom "U gradu meda i mlijeka", komedije Ri Teatra. Izvedbe su 28, 29. i 30. rujna u 20 sati.

28 - 30.9 Kalvarija Cultural Center After the summer break, the Kalvarija Cultural Center will start with a comedy "In the city of milk and honey," by the Ri Teatar Comedy. Performances will take place on 28th to 30th September at 8 pm.


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26. - 30.9.

Nautica

Na Putničkoj obali održava se Nautica – 28. Međunarodni nautički sajam. 26 - 30.9

Nautica

On the passenger bank there is Nautica – the 28th International Nautical Show.

Listopad / October 2012 1. - 5.10. Kulturni centar Kalvarija Od 1. - 4.10. Kulturni centar Kalvarija organizira Dječji tjedan - predstave za djecu, radionice, izložbe, igraonice..., od 10 do 19 sati. Na istom mjestu 5.10. pogledajte "Devet" - premijeru predstave Ri Teatra o grupi The Beatles, autora i redatelja:Davora Popovića, u 20 sati. 4. - 7.10. VITA plus Na Putničkoj obali od 4. - 7.10. VITA plus - 6. sajam unapređenja kvalitete života.

1 - 5.10 Kalvarija Cultural Center In the period from 1-4.10 the Kalvarija Cultural Center will be organising the Children's week with performances for children, workshops, exhibitions, play areas etc. from 10am to 7pm. In the same place on 5.10. do not miss "Nine" – the Ri Teatar premiere of the performance about The Beatles, author and producer: Davor Popović, at 8pm. 4 - 7.10 VITA plus Vita Plus – 6th Fair for improving the quality of life will be held on the Passenger shore from 4 - 7.10. 13.10 Učka mountain trek 2012. On 13.10 the 10th trekking race Učka Mountain Trek 2012 will be held, whilst from 19th to 21st in the aquatorium in front of the town the World Cup in coastal rowing competition will be taking place. 16.10 International Day of Astronomy On 16th October the International Day of Astronomy will be celebrated in the Astronomical Center, whilst the whole month is dedicated to the Croatian book.

13.10. Učka mountain trek 2012. 13.10. održava se 10. trekking utrka Učka mountain trek 2012., a od 19. do 21. na akvatoriju ispred grada održava se Svjetsko prvenstvo u obalnom veslanju. 16.10. Međunarodni dan astronomije U Astronomskom centru 16. listopada obilježava se Međunarodni dan astronomije, a cijeli mjesec posvećen je hrvatskoj knjizi. 19. - 20.10. Hal´s All Star Guitar festival HKD na Sušaku od 19. do 20. bit će domaćin 8. Hal´s All Star Guitar festivala.

19 - 20.10 Hal´s All Star Guitar festival The Croatian Cultural Dome on Sušak will host the 8th Hal's All Star Guitar Festival.

Mjesec završava partyjima na temu Halloweena 31. listopada.

The month will end with Halloween parties on 31st October.


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Studeni / November 2012 5. - 14.11.

Međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta

Međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta, 17. po redu, otvara događaje u studenom, od 5. do 14. Na programu je niz zanimljivih predstava za male, ali i velike. Od 23. do 24. na svoje dolaze ljubitelji klapa jer se u HKD na Sušaku održavaju 20. Bašćanski glasi. 5 - 14.11

International Puppet Theatre Festival

On the 17th, the International Puppet Theatre, will start events in November, from 5th to 14th with a series of interesting performances, both for children and adults. The period from 23rd to 24th is for klapas admirers because the 20th Bašćanski glasi concert will take place in the Croatian Cultural Dome on Sušak . 2. - 4.11. Kulturni centar Kalvarija Kulturni centar Kalvarija pun je događaja u studenom koji započinju 2., 3. i 4. kad je na programu "Smrad" - tragikomedija Ri Teatra.

2 - 4.11 Kalvarija Cultural Center The Kalvarija Cultural centre has numerous events in November too which start on 2nd, 3rd and 4th when the Ri Teatar will be performing their tragicomedy "Smell".

Prosinac / December 2012 1. - 31.12. Prosinac u Rijeci Najčarobniji mjesec u godini. Prosinac u Rijeci od 1. do 31. donosi prigodni božićno-novogodišnji program na raznim lokacijama. Svatko može pronaći nešto za sebe, a pogotovo najmlađi. Nakon dočeka Sv. Nikole 6. 12., od 10. - 20.12. "Prosinac za djecu" donosi specijalni božićno-novogodišnji program za najmlađe, predstave za djecu, igraonice, radionice, doček Djeda Mraza, pokloni svoj djeci... U katedrali Sv. Vida 26. prosinca na programu je tradicionalni koncert božićnih pjesama – "Božić je ljudi", a od 28. - 30.12. u HNK Ivana pl. Zajca na redu su Novogodišnji koncerti. Završite 2012. veselim i nezaboravnim dočekom Nove godine na Korzu.

1 - 31.12 December in Rijeka The most charming month of the year. December in Rijeka from 1st to 31st brings a fitting Christmas and New Year program that will be held in various locations. Everyone will be able to find something to enjoy, particularly the younger audience. After the feast of St Nicholas on 6.12, from 10 - 20.12. "December for children" brings a special Christmas and New Year program for the younger audience with performances for children, playrooms, workshops, Santa Claus with welcome, gifts for all children... On 26th December in St Vitus Cathedral, the traditional concert of Christmas songs - "Božić je ljudi" (It's Christmas people) will be taking place whilst from 28 - 30.12 the New Year concerts will be performed in CNT Ivan pl. Zajc. Finish 2012 with a cheerful and unforgettable welcome to the New Year on the Korzo.

7. - 9.12. Family fest Od 7. - 9.12. u Dvorani mladosti održava se Family fest - 2. obiteljski sajam.

7 - 9.12 Family fest From 7 - 9.12 the 2nd family Fair – Family Fest will also be held in the Youths Hall

Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić Marić


Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

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Piše / Written by: Valentino Benčić

Specijalitet primorske Hrvatske na kvarnerski način A specialty of littoral Croatia in Kvarner way

Pršut i bura

s Kvarnera

Prosciutto and bora from the Kvarner


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Pršut, taj jedinstveni suhomesnati specijalitet već stotinama godina oduševljava turiste, slučajne prolaznike kao i stanovništvo Hrvatske. Iako prvi pisani podaci o pršutu u kojima se opisuje njegova razna namjena datiraju nekoliko stoljeća unazad, danas je postalo jasno kako je ideja o proizvodnji pršuta nastala zbog potrebe da se meso što duže očuva. I ono što nije nikome tako dobro uspjelo, Hrvatima jest. Od toga snažnog komada stražnjih (u nekim kulturama i prednjih) svinjskih nogu, proizvođači pršuta napravili su deliciju koja je postala nezaobilazan dio svake dobrodošlice, zakuske, slavlja. Gotovo da ne postoji dio primorske Hrvatske u kojem nećete pronaći barem jednog proizvođača pršuta. Svaki od njih slično obrađuje taj, isprva sirovi, komad mesa. No tri pršuta bolja su, ukusnija i posebnija od svih ostalih. Tri kralja davno su navijestila rođenje spasitelja, no tri pršuta drniški, istarski i krčki, asevi su svih hrvatskih pršuta. Ova tri od tek sedam registriranih autohtonih proizvoda u Hrvatskoj predstavljaju vrhunac današnje proizvodnje. Iako naizgled isti, svaki od njih razlikuje se pripremom. Istrijani suše pršut bez kože i bez dimljenja, drniški se dimi sa kožom, dok krčki  postaje savršen sušen na kvarnerskoj buri bez dima, sa kožom.

Krčki pršut Krk, otok jedinstvenoga gastronomskog doživljaja. U njegovom imenu stopili su se okusi vrhunskog maslinovog ulja, vina istančanog bukea kao i sira specifičnoga okusa. No nabrojeno bez krčkog pršuta ne čini cjelinu. Da je tome tako posvjedočio nam je i Vjekoslav Žužić, jedini otočni proizvođač pršuta s oznakom zemljopisnog porijekla.

Pršut voli voće, on se redovito konzumira s dinjom, a mi preporučujemo da ga probate sa svježom smokvom Prosciutto loves fruit and is regularly consumed with melon. We recommend you to try it with fresh figs Prosciutto, that unique specialty which thrills tourists, random passengers as well as the Croatian nation for hundreds of years. Although the first written records of prosciutto which describe its various uses date back several centuries ago, today it became clear that the idea of producing prosciutto aroused from the need to preserve the meat as long as possible. And what anyone else succeeded to do so well, the Croats did. Of that strong piece of back (in some cultures also front) leg of a pork, prosciutto manufacturers have made a delicacy that has become an unavoidable part of every welcome, buffets, celebration. There is almost no part of the Croatian littoral in which you will not find at least one manufacturer of prosciutto. Each of them processes that, firstly crude, piece of meat in similar way. However, there are three species of prosciutto which are better, tastier and more special than all other. The Three Kings announced long time ago the birth of a saviour, but three prosciuttos, Drniš, Istrian and Krk prosciutto, are the Aces among the all other Croatian prosciutto. These three of only seven registered autochthonous products in Croatia represents the peak of today's production. Although seemingly the same, each of them differs for their preparation. Istrian producers


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Nakon što pršut prođe proces soljenja, dosoljavanja, prešanja, ispiranja i sušenja na buri što sve skupa traje 18 mjeseci, nastaje 7-8 kilograma težak ukusni zalogaj. Ravnomjerne crveno zagasite boje, rezan isključivo nožem kako bi se sačuvao okus, pršut ima aromu maslaca, nije premekan, topi se u ustima i savršeno se sljubljuje uz čašicu vrbničke žlahtine. Tajna okusa? Možda zakletva pokojnoga djeda Žužića koji se u kasnim dvadesetim godinama prošlog stoljeća, u vrijeme svinjske kuge, obvezao da će za svaku preživjelu svinju fratrima na Košljunu (mali otočić) odnijeti jedan pršut. I od tada je kuga nestala, a ostao je savršen pršut s krčkim potpisom.  are drying prosciutto without the skin and without smoking, Drniš prosciutto is smoked with skin whilst the Krk's prosciutto becomes perfect when dried at Kvarner’s bora, with skin and without the smoking process.

Krk’s prosciutto Krk, the island of an unique gastronomic experience. Its name merged flavors of the top olive oil, wines of an exquisite bouquet and a cheese of a particular flavor. But all the aforementioned cannot make a whole without prosciutto. That this is the truth testified us Vjekoslav Žužic, the only island prosciutto manufacturer having the geographical origin mark. Once passed the whole process of salting, adding salt, pressing, washing and drying at bora wind that lasts 18 months, you get a 7-8 kilos of tasty snack. Prosciutto of a uniform dark red colour, cut exclusively with a knife to preserve its flavour, has an aroma of butter, it is not too soft, melts in the mouth and perfectly goes with a glass of Vrbnik's Žlahtina wine. The secret of taste? Maybe the oath of late grandfather Žužić that in the late twenties of the last century, at the time of swine fever, committed to bring one prosciutto to the Franciscans at Košljun (an islet) for each surviving pig. Since then the fever disappeared, and what remained is a perfect prosciutto with Krk's signature.

Specijalitet kvarnerske kuhinje

A speciality of the Kvarner cuisine

Punjene lignje s pršutom i crvenim radićem

Squids stuffed with prosciutto and red radicchio

Sastojci za 4 osobe: • 800 g jadranskih liganja • par listova crvenog radića • papar, sol • 1 režanj češnjaka • 50 g pršuta • maslinovo ulje

Ingredients for 4 person: • 800 g Adriatic squids • few red radicchio leaves • pepper, salt • 1 clove of garlic • 50 g of prosciutto • olive oil

Lignje se očiste i operu. Pripremi se nadjev od sitno narezanih glava liganja, sitno sjeckanog pršuta i češnjaka, soli, papra i maslinova ulja. Nadjev umotamo u list crvenog radića (poput sarme), te napunimo rep od lignje, Učvrstimo. Na laganoj vatri  pirjamo sa svih strana na malo masnoće. Kao prilog preporučamo blitvu.

Clean and wash squids. Prepare a stuffing of finely sliced ​​squid heads, finely chopped garlic and prosciutto, salt, pepper and olive oil. Stuffing prepared in such way wrap in a sheet of red radicchio (such as cabbage rolls), and fill the tail of the squid. Then strengthen it. Braise a small amount of fat at low heat. Chard is warmly recommended as a side dish.


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Slasni kutak / Tasty corner

Piše / Written by: Sanja Krmpotić

More je od pamtivijeka bilo izvor hrane, prema tvrdnjama znanstvenika kolijevka života i svega što postoji... The sea has been a source of food from time immemorial and, according to some scientists, the cradle of life and all that exists...

Svjetska poslastica

iz plavoga mulja Kvarnera

A world delicacy from the blue Kvarner mud


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Iako Riječani sa zebnjom spominju ozloglašenoga talijanskog pjesnika Gabriela D'Annunzia, okupatora grada između dva svjetska rata, svi poznavatelji dobre hrane podržavaju i citiraju njegovu tvrdnju da je najukusniji škamp na svijetu upravo onaj "iz plavoga mulja Kvarnerskog zaljeva!" Brojni svjetski gurmani su za primjerke s takvom oznakom izvornosti spremni platiti puno više, a oni najiskusniji ih poput poznavatelja vina mogu prepoznati među srodnicima iz drugih mora.

Nephrops norvegicus Kad se govori o podrijetlu kvarnerskog škampa najčešće se čuje da je nastao spontanim križanjem domaćeg škampa sa škampima iz južnokineskih mora, pristiglih u riječku luku na oplatama britanskih brodova. No, tu egzotičnu pripovijest je prije tridesetak godina osporila znanost, kada su kvarnerski škampi poslani na analizu u Norvešku gdje je utvrđeno da su identični onima u Sjevernom ledenom moru. Stoga je vjerojatnija pretpostavka da je norveški predak današnjeg škampa umjetno naseljen u Jadran, te pod utjecajem novih mikroklimatskih uvjeta staništa - vrlo plitko more s puno izvora pitke vode i toplije podneblje - s vremenom poprimio blijedocrvenu boju i tanji oklop, mekanu i podatnu teksturu, te posebnu, prepoznatljivu slatkoću. Gradacija okusa primjetna je i u različitim dijelovima Jadrana, pa kretanjem prema jugu kvaliteta škampa opada jer obitavanjem na većim dubinama oklop postaje tvrđi, a meso mišićavo i vlaknasto. Škamp je vrsta raka latinskoga naziva Nephrops norvegicus, spada u porodicu hlapova, a njegovo stanište se prostire od Islanda i Norveške u Atlanskom oceanu, preko skoro cijelog Mediterana (izuzev istočnog akvatorija) do Jadranskoga mora u kojem je zastupljen s 241 vrstom, najviše u sjevernom dijelu, na Kvarneru i u Podvelebitskom kanalu, te na jugu u Jabučkoj kotlini. Dubine na kojima obitava kreću se od 30 do 400 metara,  a za razliku od svojih slatkovodnih rođaka, živi isključivo na muljevitom dnu glinastog sastava pogodnom za kopanje tunela iz kojih izlazi samo u potrazi za hranom i u vrijeme parenja. Preteženo se hrani drugim rakovima i mekušcima, te organskim ostacima dospjelim na morsko dno. Škamp raste vrlo sporo, jer presvlači oklop, pri čemu su mužjaci nešto duži (do 26 cm) od ženki (do 17 cm), a da bi postigao težinu od 200 grama, treba mu čak deset godina!

Kvarnerski brend Od davnina se škampi u Jadranu love vršama na parangalu, još uvijek su to najslasniji primjerci jer im takvim lovnim alatom meso ostaje neoštećeno i čisto od pijeska i mulja. No škampara je sve manje, kao i njihova ulova. Potisnule su ih brojne koćarske mreže, pretjeranim izlovom kojih posljednjih dvadesetak godina je primjetan pad populacije škampa, te prijeti opasnost od njegova izumiranja, a jedinke su sve manje. Tako su nekada kilogram činila četiri velika škampa, a danas skoro tridesetak manjih. Navedena problematika je bila tema okruglog stola znanstvenika i ribara održanog 2011. godine, radi definiranja mjera zaštite jadranskog škampa i pokretanja inicijative brendiranja kvarnerskog škampa kao izvornog hrvatskog i ekološki zdravog prehrambenog proizvoda vrhunske kvalitete!

Ako ovdašnje ljude upitate za najbolju kvarnersku namirnicu, većina će spontano odgovoriti - škamp! If you ask local people for the best Kvarner food, most of them will spontaneously answer- scampi! Although Rijeka citizens eagerly mention the notorious Italian poet, Gabriele D'Annunzio, who occupied the town during the interwar period, all connoisseurs of good food support and quote his claim that the most delicious scampi in the world is that from the very "blue mud of the Kvarner bay!" Many of the world's gourmets are ready to pay for specimens with such a designation of origin more, whilst the most experienced, like wine connoisseurs, are able to identify them from among their relatives of other seas.

Nephrops norvegicus When discussing the origin of Kvarner scampi, it is usually said that it was created by the spontaneous crossing of the domestic scampi with scampi from the Southern Chinese Seas, which arrived in the port of Rijeka on the hulls of British ships. However, this exotic tale was contested by science thirty years ago, when Kvarner scampi were sent for analysis to Norway where it was determined that they are identical to those in the Arctic Sea. The assumption that the Norwegian ancestor of today’s scampi was artificially populated in the Adriatic is therefore more plausible, and under the influence of the microclimatic conditions of its new habitat - very shallow water with plenty of fresh water springs and a warmer climate – had over time assumed its light red colour and thinner shell, its soft and supple texture as well as its special and distinctive sweetness. A gradation of flavour is also noticeable in various parts of the Adriatic, so the scampi’s movement southward has decreased its quality since settling at greater depths, its shell becomes harder and its meat more muscular and fibrous. The scampi is a type of crab with a Latin name, Nephrops norvegicus, and belongs to the lobster family. Its habitat extends from Iceland and Norway in the Atlantic Ocean, across almost the entire Mediterranean (apart from the eastern archipelago) to the Adriatic sea where it is represented with 241 species, mostly in the northern part, in the Kvarner and Velebit channel whilst in the south it can also be found in the Jabuka valley. It lives at depths from 30 to 400 meters, and unlike its freshwater cousins, lives solely on the muddy bottom composed of clay which is suitable for digging tunnels which it leaves only when searching for food and during the mating period. It mainly feeds on other crabs and molluscs as well as on organic residues that have come to the seabed. The scampi grows very slowly, as it has to change its shell, males are slightly longer (up to 26 cm)


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Prvo spominjanje škampa kao namirnice zabilježeno je još u 1. stoljeću poslije Krista, u djelu "O kuharskom umijeću carskoga Rima", legendarnog gurmana i pisca Marka Gabiusa Apiciusa, koji je iznad svega volio škampe, doduše ne jadranske nego iz južne talijanske regije Kampanije. No u pravu modu je došao tek sredinom 19. stoljeća, pojavom koča i naglim povećanjem njegova izlova, kad se ponovno službeno vraća u talijanska gastronomska djela s hvalospjevima upućenim upravo primjercima koje su venecijanski ribari lovili na Kvarneru, pronoseći svijetom slavu našega podmorja, o čemu svjedoče zapisi tadašnjeg ribarskog priručnika: "Nazivu scampo priznaje se venecijansko podrijetlo, ali najbolji škampi žive uz dalmatinske obale i na Kvarneru."

Esencija živog mora Mletački naziv scampo proširio se po cijeloj Italiji i našoj zemlji, a u engleskom i francuskom gastronomskom narječju je zamijenio njihove izvorne nazive (engl. Norwey lobster, franc. Langoustine), iako je korijen riječi, kao i kod većine riba i rakova, zapravo grčki te u prijevodu znači iskrivljen, vjerojatno po škampovu zakrivljenom repu. Škampi su oduvijek bili cijenjeni među pravim sladokuscima i ovisno o njihovu kulinarskom okruženju pripremani na razne načine, mirisima i okusima opisujući kraj iz kojeg dolaze te još bitnije, brojem sastojaka i dodataka u receptu otkrivajući stvarnu kvalitetu svog okusa. Upravo u tome leži tajna posebnosti kvarnerskog škampa koji obitava u ekološki čistom Kvarnerskom zaljevu, s brojnim izvorima slatke vode, na malim dubinama do kojih sunčane zrake lako dopiru i škampu pružaju stanište bogato kvalitetnom hranom i mineralima. Zbog nižeg morskog tlaka njegov oklop je tanji i mekši, a meso izrazito ukusno, prepoznatljive slatkoće koja dolazi do izražaja u najjednostavnijim jelima, poput

than females (up to 17 cm) and in order to achieve a weight of 200 grams, it can take up to ten years!

Kvarner's Brand From time immemorial Adriatic scampi is fished with trawl lines, they are still the most delicious specimens as such fishing tools enable the meat to remain intact and clean of sand and mud. However, both scampi fishermen and their catch are becoming less every day. They are pushed out with the numerous trawl nets and overfishing in the last twenty years has caused a noticeable decrease of the scampi population. There is a danger of their extinction whilst individuals are smaller. So where once, in a kilogram you got four large pieces of scampi today you will get around thirty pieces of scampi which are considerably smaller. This problem was the theme of the round table of scientists and fishermen held in 2011, to define measures to protect the Adriatic scampi and to start an initiative of branding Kvarner scampi as being of Croatian origin and an ecologically healthy top quality food! Scampi was mentioned for the first time as a food in the 1st century AD, in the opus "About the culinary art of imperial Rome" written by the legendary gourmand and writer Marcus Gabius Apicius, who loved scampi more than anything, though not those from the Adriatic preferring those from the southern Italian region of Campania. However, they became really popular in the mid-19th century, when fishing boats started to be used and there was a rapid increase in scampi fishing. During that time, scampi officially returned to the Italian gastronomic state-of-the-art with hymns being addressed to the species Venetian fishermen fished in the Kvarner region, bringing the glory of our undersea world around the globe, which can be proved by notes in a fishing guide of the time: "Scampo is


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Škampi na buzaru

Scampi alla buzzara

Za 4 osobe: • 1200 grama škampi • 2 režnja češnjaka • 2 oguljene svježe rajčice • 2 dcl suhog bijelog vina • Krušne mrvice po potrebi • Kosani svježi peršin • Maslinovo ulje • Sol

For 4 people:  • 1200 gr of scampi • 2 cloves of garlic • 2 pieces of peeled fresh tomato • 200 ml of dry white wine • Bread crumbs as necessary • Chopped fresh parsley • Olive oil • Salt

 U zagrijanu padelu dodajte maslinovo ulje. Kad se ulje zagrije, ubacite cijele škampe i kratko popržite. Dodajte sjeckani češnjak, a čim zamiriši, ubacite sjeckane rajčice. Kad tekućina iz rajčica ispari, dodajte bijelo vino te poklopite na dvije minute. Potom otklopite i po potrebi zgusnite krušnim mrvicama, začinite solju, maslinovim uljem i na kraju pospite sitno kosanim svježim peršinom. Bitna napomena: škamp pripremljen na buzaru mora biti čvrste konzistencije poput pečenog na žaru, a ne kuhanog u umaku. tradicionalne buzare - na crveno ili bijelo, ovisno o dodatku rajčice - zatim rižota ili samo sa žara. S vremenom su prihvaćeni i novi trendovi u gastronomiji, no ljudi od mora i ljubitelji esencijalnih okusa vrhunac užitka pronalaze upravo u sirovom kvarnerskom škampu s tek par kapi limunova soka, što je ujedno i najdrevniji ritual kušanja snage i punoće života - naše pradavne hrane iz mora.

 Pour the olive oil onto a heated platter. When the oil becomes hot, add the whole scampi and fry them briefly. Add the chopped garlic, and as soon as it begins to brown, add the chopped tomatoes. When the liquid from the tomatoes has evaporated, add the white wine and cover for two minutes. Then take off the cover and add the bread crumbs, salt, olive oil and finally sprinkle with the finely chopped fresh parsley. Important note: scampi prepared in a buzzara sauce should have a consistency like that of grilled scampi, and not like those boiled in sauce. accepted as a name of Venetian origin, but the best scampi live along the Dalmatian shores and on Kvarner.

The essence of the living sea The Venetian name scampo spread all over Italy and our country when English and French culinary dialect replaced their original names (eng. Norwegian lobster, fr. Langoustine), although the root of the word, as with most fish and crustaceans, is in fact Greek and the translation means bent, probably because of the scampi’s curved tail. Scampi has always been appreciated among real gourmets depending on their culinary environment, and are prepared in a number of ways, recounting the area from which they come from with their aroma and taste and even more importantly, revealing the actual quality of their flavour by the number of ingredients and additives from the recipe. The secret of Kvarner scampi lies precisely in the aforementioned particularity which resides in the ecologically clean Kvarner Bay, with its numerous springs of fresh water at shallow depths, easily reached by solar rays, providing the scampi with a habitat rich in quality food and minerals. Due to the lower sea pressure, its shell is thinner and softer, and its meat is very tasty, of a distinctive sweetness that is particularly noticeable in the simplest dishes, such as the traditional buzzara – prepared "red" or "white", depending on how much tomato is added – or a simple risotto or even just grilled. Over time, new trends in gastronomy have been accepted but people from the sea and lovers of essential flavours attain the most intense pleasure in raw Kvarner scampi with just a few drops of lemon juice, which is the most ancient ritual of tasting power and the fullness of life that is our ancient food from the sea.


Novi grad / New city

Tower Center Rijeka -

kupovina sa stilom

The Tower Center Rijeka - shopping with style Kada poželite sve na jednom mjestu, posjetite Tower Center Rijeka, jedan od najvećih trgovačkih centara, omiljeno okupljalište Riječana, ali i svih posjetitelja Rijeke. U modernoj i elegantnoj galeriji čeka vas 150 trgovina s ponudom najboljih međunarodnih i domaćih robnih marki. Od odjeće, bijele tehnike i namještaja, pa sve do gift shop-a, Tower Center Rijeka će uistinu ispuniti sve vaše želje. Tu je i jedan hipermarket, osam Megastorova, te niz korisnih usluga i sadržaja: banka, mjenjačnica, kemijska čistionica, frizerski salon. Ono što će zanimati „prave šopingholičare“ je da Tower Center jedini u gradu nudi i besplatnu uslugu modnog

When you want to buy everything in one place, visit the Tower Center Rijeka, one of the biggest shopping malls, and Rijeka citizens' together with its visitors' favourite gathering place. In a modern and elegant gallery 150 stores are waiting for you, offering the best international and domestic brands. From clothing, home appliances and furniture, to the gift shop, the Tower Center Rijeka will truly satisfy all your desires. There is also a hypermarket, eight Megastores and a number of useful services and facilities: a bank, currency exchange, dry cleaning and a hairdressing salon. What will be of interest for "real shopaholics" is that the Tower Center is the only one in town offering a free fashion stylist service – a so called Personal Shopper, with whom


81

Svijet pogodnosti uz GOLDEN TOWER karticu

A world of benefits with the GOLDEN TOWER card

Tower Center svojim kupcima i posjetiteljima nudi pogodnosti loyalty programa. U programu sudjeluje više od 70 trgovina centra, ali i subjekti iz okolice centra, iz Rijeke i regije.

The Tower Center provides its customers and visitors with loyalty program benefits. Taking part there are more than 70 stores from the centre as well as entities from the Rijeka suburbs and from Rijeka and the region.

Osnovni instrument loyalty programa je Golden Tower kartica. Da bi se postalo korisnikom GOLDEN TOWER KARTICE potrebno je ispuniti pristupnicu koju se u svakom trenutku može dobiti na info pultu na 4. katu Tower Centra Rijeka. Pristupnicu u PDF formatu je moguće skinutu i sa web stranice www.tower-center-rijeka.hr i Facebook stranice Tower Center Rijeka. Korisnik kartice mora biti punoljetna osoba. Nakon predaje propisno ispunjene pristupnice na info pultu TOWER CENTRA RIJEKA na četvrtom katu korisniku će biti izdana GOLDEN TOWER kartica s kojom može direktno u kupovinu. GOLDEN TOWER PROGRAM funkcionira na način da se kod svake kupnje veće od 100 kuna bodovi prenose na GOLDEN TOWER KARTICU provlačenjem kartice na pripadajućem POS aparatu u trgovinama koje sudjeluju u loyalty programu. Trgovine koje sudjeluju u programu će biti označene naljepnicama na ulazu i na blagajna. Za svakih 100 kuna dobiva se 1 bod. Bodovi se mogu koristiti kod narednih kupnji za smanjivanje računa u omjeru 1 bod=1 kuna. Osim toga, TCR će za korisnike kartice organizirati i druge pogodnosti i usluge, akcije i nagradne igre.

stilista tzv. personal shoppera, s kojim klijenti bez muke u trgovinama pronalaze idealnu odjevnu kombinaciju za svaku prigodu. Osim kupovine, u Tower Centru Rijeka nudi se i pregršt zabave od multipleks kina ili automat kluba na petom katu centra do mnogobrojnih kafića i restorana. Za najmlađe, tu je dječja igraonica na drugom katu centra i brojni programi tijekom cijele godine osmišljeni kako bi se i mališani ovdje dobro osjećali. Koliko Tower Center znači Rijeci i Riječanima i koliko je postao dio njihove svakodnevice govori i činjenica da se na njegovu krovu ovog ljeta odvija završnica najveće kulturne manifestacije, Riječkih ljetnih noći.

The main instrument of the loyalty program is the Golden Tower card. To become a user of the GOLDEN TOWER CARD, it is necessary to fill in a membership application form that can be obtained at any time from the Information Desk on the 4th floor of the Tower Center Rijeka. The application form in PDF format can also be downloaded from the www.tower-center-rijeka.hr website and Facebook page Tower Center Rijeka. Cardholder must be over 18 years of age. Once the completed application form has been submitted to the Information Desk of the TOWER CENTER RIJEKA on the fourth floor, the user will be given his Golden Tower card, which he can immediately use and go shopping. The GOLDEN TOWER program functions in the following way. With every purchase over 100 kuna, credits are transferred to the GOLDEN TOWER CARD by swiping the card through the corresponding POS machine at those stores taking part in the loyalty program. Shops participating in the program will be marked with labels at the entrance and at the cash desk. For every 100 kunas spent, 1 credit will be given. Points can be used on subsequent purchases to reduce the total amount payable in the ratio of 1 point = 1 kuna. Furthermore, TCR will also arrange other benefits and services, as well as activities and competitions for cardholders.

clients can easily find the ideal combination of clothes for every occasion. Besides shopping, the Tower Center Rijeka offers plenty of entertainment, from multiplex cinemas or the slot club on the fifth floor of the centre to numerous cafes and restaurants. For children, there is a playroom on the second floor and numerous entertainment programs throughout the year, designed to make sure the kids feel good here too. How important the Tower Center is for Rijeka and its citizens, and how it has become part of their everyday lives is proof of the fact that this summer the closing evening of the biggest cultural event, the Rijeka Summer Nights will be held on its roof.


82

Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us http://www.foodandtravel.com/

http://www.foodandtravel.com/

Zašto posjetiti?

Why go?

Mnogi putnici koji posjećuju Hrvatsku hitaju k otocima Krku, Cresu, Rabu ili Lošinju ili pak ka prekrasnoj Opatijskoj Rivijeri koja se proteže uz more. U svemu tome je Rijeka često zanemarena, što je šteta jer ona nije samo idealno polazište za istraživanje cijele županije, već je i sama po sebi prava turistička destinacija. Štoviše, čak i u vrhuncu sezone, turista je relativno malo. Smještena tamo gdje Jadransko more duboko ulazi u unutrašnjost Europe, Rijeka je još od doba Mlečana pomorski grad.

Most travellers to Croatia speed of towards the islands of Krk, Cres, Rab or Lošinj or to Opatija’s glittering seaside Riviera. Rijeka is often forgotten in the mix, which is a shame because not only is the city an ideal jumping off point for exploring the region, it is a destination in its own right. What’s more, even in the peak of the tourists are relatively scarce. Located at the point where the Adriatic Sea penetrates Europe further inland, Rijeka has been a maritime city ever since Venetian times...

Što raditi?

What to do?

Riječki stari grad kojeg čini mnoštvo čudno uzdignutih zgrada s narančastim krovovima malenih je dimenzija, pa vam je za razgledavanje potrebno tek sat ili dva. Posebna znamenitost je stari rimski luk, ostatak antičkoga ulaza u upravno područje nekadašnje tvrđave. Na sjevernoj se strani, pokraj parka Nikole Hosta, nalaze Muzej grada Rijeke i Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja. Katedrala Sv. Vida, čija je gradnja započela 1600-tih godina, a bilo je potrebno čitavo jedno stoljeće da ju se dovrši, Riječki je simbol. Akvatorij riječke luke pun je ribarskih brodova i galebova, a tijekom ljeta tu se održavaju i jedriličarske regate.

Rijeka’s downtown, formed out of huddles of orange-roofed buildings and the odd high-rise, is small, and a walking tour is easily completed in an hour or two. An old Roman arch is a particular highlight; the ruins are of the ancient gateway to a fort’s command area. To the north, a city museum and maritime history museum are situated by the Park Nikole Hosta. St. Vitus Church is the symbol of Rijeka; construction began in the 1600s and took a century to complete... ...Nearby the waters of the harbour are filed with bobbing fishing boats and birds, in summer there are siling regattas.

Što jesti i piti? Riječani su ponosni na svoju sezonsku prehranu - započnite čavrljati s lokalnim ljudima o hrani i teško ćete ih natjerati da stanu. Ne smijete zaobići tradicionalne konobe, tipične za hrvatsku obalu: ovakvih je ugostiteljskih objekata posvuda u gradu.

Fotografija / Photo: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board

What to eat and drink Rijekans pride themselves on their seasonal eating - start chatting with any local about food, and it’s hard to get them to stop. You must visit a traditional konoba (tavern) typical of the Croatian coast: there are many of these eateries throughout the city.


Being in the very heart of Rijeka, Grand Hotel Bonavia is the life line of business travellers. Our state of the art Business centre Grand Hotel Bonavia - in business since 1876.

www.alh.hr


Welcome to Rijeka 06-2013  

Welcome to Rijeka - magazine

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