The information in this guide is correct at the time of print and every care has been taken to ensure accuracy. However, Down District Council, Banbridge District Council and Newry & Mourne District Council cannot accept responsibility for any errors, omissions or changes which may occur. All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or other damage caused by the reliance on the information contained in this guide, or in the event of bankruptcy or liquidation of any company, individual or firm mentioned, or in the event of any company, individual or firm ceasing to trade, is hereby excluded. ©2015.
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@visitmourne visitmournemountains IMAGE 3 The Cottage possibly taken in the early 1860s.
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IMAGE 2 The pond beside the Spring Garden. IMAGE 1 Eucryphia in the Annesley Garden.
From the early part of the 17th century the Annesley seat was in the nearby village of Clough. In 1741 William Annesley, then resident in Dublin, purchased the Maginnis lands at Castlewellan and after the death of his father at
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His son, Francis Charles, inherited in 1770. Francis was created Earl Annesley on 17th August 1789. His brother Richard, 2nd Earl Annesley, inherited in 1802. He built himself a summer villa known as ‘The Cottage’ on the north shore of the lake.
Welcome to Castlewellan
The History of the Demesne
The trails around the Forest Park and Town are designed to help you explore Castlewellan’s heritage. Whether you start in the Town, or in the Forest Park, there is much to explore.
Castlewellan Forest Park is a demesne steeped in history. The demesne dates from medieval times when the Maginnis family had a crannog or island dwelling on the north side of the lake. From the early 1500s they were among the most powerful of the Maginnis lordships in eastern Ulster with lands extending as far as Dundrum. Over the next century they lost and regained their lands twice, but after the death of Phelim McEver Maginnis in 1691 the ownership of the land changed.
Please take care around water, heritage buildings and traffic. Please protect the environment and do not leave any litter. You can recycle this map by giving it back or passing it to a friend.
Castlewellan Heritage Trail
Clough, in 1750, he set about transforming his newly acquired lands. By July 1751 Mrs Delany, wife of the Dean of Down, and resident nearby, noted that he had: “walled in and planted with oak etc. three hundred and fifty acres of ground for a park. Near them is a large bleach-yard and Mr. Annesley is going to build a town”. In 1758 William was created Baron Annesley of Castlewellan and in 1766 Viscount Glenawly in Fermanagh.
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Castlewellan Forest Park
The History of the Demesne At the same time the surrounding demesne was transformed into the naturalistic landscape park we see today, most probably the work of the famous ‘landscape gardener’, John Sutherland, who was a family friend. On high ground just above the house a remarkable gothic ‘Temple’ with a church-like steeple was added to the park in 1809–10. Richard’s eldest son, William Richard inherited in 1824 but when he died in 1838 he left the demesne to his son, William Richard, 4th Earl Annesley, who was just eight year old. The demesne was managed by the Reverend John Robert Moore, brother of the 3rd Earl’s widow and trustee, until William reached 21. It was he who commissioned Charles Lanyon to build St. Paul’s Church as a chapel of ease. When William came of age he built
the Castle, completed in 1858, on the site of the Gothic ‘Temple’, and the Gate Lodge. The walled garden was enlarged and transformed into a splendid pleasure ground of around twelve acres, including fashionable Victorianstyle terracing. After his death in 1874, the demesne passed to his younger brother Hugh, 5th Earl Annesley. As a much travelled former soldier with a passion for horticulture, Hugh enthusiastically embarked upon developing the gardens and arboretum. Hugh was described by his daughter Mabel, as working like a “giant landscape gardener”. He added plantations of conifers, creating pathways through the trees, and opened up vistas to the mountains and the sea. He built the Moorish Tower, one of two tea-houses in the park. He also planted 3,000 rare trees and shrubs and created an arboretum of international importance.
The period after Hugh’s death, in 1908, was difficult. His son Francis was killed in the First World War in 1914, and his daughter Mabel had to fight for ownership and rescued the demesne from death duties. She handed the demesne to her son Gerald Annesley who managed it,
adding to the collection from time to time, until he sold it to the Ministry of Agriculture in 1967. In 1969 the ‘Forest Park’ was opened to the public by the Governor of Northern Ireland, Lord Grey of Naunton.
IMAGE 4 The Gothic Temple taken sometime around 1850.
The Grange
The Grange was built around the 1750s with three large courtyards. The first housed carriages with granaries above; the second was for stables which had haylofts above; and, the third was used for winnowing corn. The Dovecote, which was lined with up to 400 nesting boxes, was a later addition. The young squabs or squeakers were a valuable source of food during the winter. The Eagles at the entrance of the Grange are made of Coade Stone supplied in 1818–20. Coade Stone is an artificial stone made by Eleanor Coade in Lambeth, London. The Eagles were originally placed at the entrance to the demesne and then moved to the Grange possibly when the new gates, designed by William Burn, were built in the 1860s.
IMAGE 5 View form the Annesley Garden terrace. IMAGE 6 Wood engraving of the Grange by Mabel Annesley courtesy of Robert Trotter. IMAGE 7 The Grange taken in the late 1800s.
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The Lake
The Moorish Tower
The Moorish Tower is now a semi-ruin. It is 20ft in diameter, with a doorway facing east and three Moorish style keyhole windows. The position of the tower is superb, allowing a wonderful view up the lake and to Dundrum Bay beyond. The tower was built by Hugh Annesley, 5th Earl, in 1884 for summer picnics with his young family. Another 19th century tea-house was built later, east of the Castle, presumably to allow views along the long duck pond.
The lake was an important source of water for the linen mills situated between Annsborough and Castlewellan. It is now designated as an Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI) for its aquatic flora and fauna.
The Ice House
It is not known when the ice house was built, but it possibly dates from late 18th century or early 19th century. It was fairly common at the time to build a store for ice, which was harvested off the lake during the winter. The task was normally given to the gardener. The ice was used for drinks and making cold desserts.
The Cypress Pond, covered by water-lilies, was also built by Hugh Annesley around 1886.
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Castlewellan Castle
The Castle is a Hiberno-Scottish baronial house designed by William Burn and built by William Richard Annesley, the 4th Earl. Drawings were prepared and approved in 1852-54 and the Castle was completed in 1858. The dramatic terraces were added in 1859-60. Castlewellan Castle cost £18,128 and was built of locally sourced ‘Ballmagreehan granite’ (blue granodiorite), a very hard stone. It took a team of stonemasons considerably longer than expected to dress it.
The straight avenue of lime trees close to the Grange survives from the 1750s development of the formal park.
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IMAGE 8 Castlewellan lake. IMAGE 9 The Moorish Tower built in 1884. IMAGE 10 Castlewellan Castle.
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14 Assizes, local courts, a Jailhouse and for religious services. It was also the site of the market on alternate weeks and fairs were held on the 1st of February, May, June and September, the 13th of November and the Tuesday before Christmas. The May and November fairs were known as ‘hiring fairs’, where people were hired for six month periods to work on farms and houses.
The town of Castlewellan was planned by William Annesley in 1750s with an unusual design of two squares; the ‘Old Town’ (the Upper Square) and then the ‘New Town’ (the Lower Square). Tenants were then allowed to build houses on each of the plots.
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Upper Square
In the upper square, Mooney Brothers was once a general store and was famous for the whiskey ‘Donard Dew’ which they distilled behind their premises.
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From Annsborough to Castlewellan
Castlewellan Forest Park
Annesley Garden and Castlewellan Arboretum
The walled garden is now known as the Annesley Garden in tribute to the former owners. The garden started life in the 1750s as a kitchen garden before being transformed into a pleasure garden of around twelve acres in the 1850s including a large viewing terrace to support a fine range of glasshouses built by Gray, of Chelsea, in 1869 –70. Considerable exotic planting was associated with this pleasure ground; for example ten giant sequoia (commonly known as Wellingtonia), monkey puzzle trees and rhododendrons. Hugh Annesley, 5th Earl, was primarily responsible for the development of the Arboretum. Like many keen plantsmen of his time he sourced seeds and seedlings from around the world.
By the early 20th century there were over 3000 different species of rare plants from all over the world, thriving in the hospitable climate at Castlewellan. The Collection has been added to in the intervening years through careful selection of plants by Forest Service staff. The garden is the hub of the Arboretum which now extends to some 45 hectares and contains an internationally important collection of trees and shrubs with many beautiful and rare species.
The Gate Lodge and Screen
The new Gate Lodge, gates and piers were designed by William Burn in 1861. The Gate Lodge was completed in 1865. It controlled the entrance to the Forest Park and also served as the Estate Office where rents were collected due to the Annesley Estate.
Annsborough was the hub of a thriving linen industry operated by the Murland brothers from 1800, using water from the lake on the Annesley demesne. The Murlands are thought to have built the first wet spinning mill in Ireland in 1826, which still stands. Their linen was sold at the markets in Castlewellan, as well as being exported. Evidence of the Murlands’ success can be seen in their buildings; for example, Annsborough stores, the School, Ardnabannon House, Greenvale, Wood Lodge, Corry Wood House and Annsborough House. On climbing Mill Hill, towards Castlewellan, you will come to St Paul’s Church which was commissioned by the Annesley family and designed by Sir Charles Lanyon in 1847. It holds the family pews and memorial plaques of the Annesley family. Further up and standing side by side is the Primitive Wesleyan Methodist
IMAGE 17 The Corncrane, Lower Square.
The first church of any denomination in Castlewellan was built by the Presbyterian Church in 1809 after Lord Annesley’s donated a site behind the current Shilliday’s hardware store. The congregation had been meeting to worship in Castlewellan since 1796, in the upper
IMAGE 18 The Clog factory and workers.
IMAGE 11 View of the garden from the top of the steps with the twin giant sequoia, Sequoiadendron giganteum.
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floor of the Market House. The new church, on the Newcastle Road, was built in 1854. The Lodge was built by the Annesley Estate in the eighteenth century for their landlord’s agent for the area. It is now a multi-use facility for the whole community.
IMAGE 19 St Malachy’s Church, Castlewellan. IMAGE 20 The Fountain Bar from the McAlleenan Album, reproduced by kind permission of P.McAlleenan. IMAGE 21 Castlewellan Presbyterian Church. IMAGE 22 The Lodge.
IMAGE 12 The Gate Lodge. IMAGE 13 The bleach green at Wood Lodge. IMAGE 14 St Paul’s Church designed by Charles Lanyon. IMAGE 15 Primitive Wesleyan Methodist Chapel built in 1869.
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TEA HOUSE
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THE MOUNTAIN LAKE
Further down the street is the Fountain Bar. It was names after the fountain that once stood at the end of the town. This area also housed the dispensary established by the Annesleys to deal with the large number of typhus patients around 1817 century and the even larger numbers suffering from Famine fever between 1845–1849.
IMAGE 16 View of the Upper Square with the Market House and St Paul’s beyond.
Chapel built in 1869 and the Manor Crane built in 1817. This was where grain was weighed by the Annesley Estate at a charge of two old pence per sack.
MITCHELL’S LAKE
SLIEVENASLAT
The first Roman Catholic Church was built in 1824 and then rebuilt as St Malachy’s Church we see today. The Church was dedicated on the 7th May 1884 and was built from locally quarried ‘Ballymagreehan granite’ (blue granodiorite).
The Corncrane, built between 1816 and 1835, was used as a corn market. The South Down Boot Shoe and Clog manufactory stood on the site of the present Mission Shop next to St. Malachy’s Church. The clogmakers and shoemakers worked in stalls behind this building.
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CASTLEWELLAN MAP
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Lower Square
The Market House, now the public library, was built around 1764. It has been used for many functions such as an Assembly room, the
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DUCK POND
CYPRESS POND
THE SPRING GARDEN & BOTHY YARD B U CK DRUM
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CASTLEWELLAN CASTLE / CONFERENCE CENTRE (PRIVATE)
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Mountain Bike Trailhead
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CASTLEWELLAN LAKE
Walk Trailhead
GRANGE COURTYARD
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DRUMADONNELL STONE CROSS CASTLEWELLAN TOWN
Cafe Activity Centre Toilets
Slipway
Forest Ranger Reception Hut
Viewpoint
Caravan Site
Mountain
Car Parks
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Acknowledgements
This trail has been developed as part of Castlewellan Future’s project which was supported by the Heritage Lottery Fund in partnership with Down District Council. We are grateful to the Ogilvie family and Michael Burns for their kind permission to use their photographs.
0.5 miles 0.3 kilometers
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Grange Courtyard
Heritage Interpretation
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MOORISH TOWER
BANN ROAD
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IMAGE 23 View of the Mourne Mountains from Castlewellan Forest Park. IMAGE 24 Hugh Annesley and camera equipment taken 7th September 1883, reproduced by kind permission of the Ogilvie family.
Based upon Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland’s data with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, © Crown Copyright and database rights NIMA ES&LA205.2
Particular thanks to Cahal and Patricia King, Michael Burns, Robert Trotter, Sam Harrison, Anne Rowan, Mary Kelly, Andrew and Lorna Forson, Dominic King, Leo Donegan, Alwyn Sinnamon, Dr Mark Johnston and Dr Sally Montgomery for all their work as part of this heritage project; and the Castlewellan Community, Terence Reeves-Smyth (NIEA), John Watson and Mark Parker (Forest Service) for their interest and support.