Lazio towns of charm volume2

TOWNS OF CHARM Second volume

LAZIO ANDAR PER BORGHI

LAZIO HEART OF EUROPE

HOW TO GET THERE

BY CAR The main roads to Lazio are the Aurelia (from Ventimiglia-Genoa), Cassia (from Bologna-Florence) and Flaminia (from the Adriatic). From the South of Italy there is the ancient via Appia and other old roads like the Domiziana.

Another alternative is to take the motorways.

BY TRAIN • the Rome-Florence “Direttissima” which was Europe’s first high-speed railway line • the Rome-Arezzo-Florence line through the region’s hinterland, which also runs north-south • the AV Rome-Naples line • the Rome-Naples (via Formia) line which runs along the Tyrrhenian Coast • the Rome-Naples (via Cassino) line which runs completely inland • the Genoa-Capalbio-Rome line which runs along the Tyrrhenian Coast

BY PLANE Lazio’s airports for commercial traffic are: • Leonardo da Vinci Airport at Fiumicino • Pastine Airport at Ciampino • Roma-Urbe Airport in Rome

BY SEA Lazio has one of the largest and most important passengers ports in Italy, Civitavecchia, which is the main departure point for Sardinia.

The port has also added services for Sicily, Malta, Spain, France and Tunisia. It is also a cruise port.

To get to the Pontine Islands from Lazio there are services from the ports of Anzio, Formia, Terracina and San Felice Circeo.

LAURA COSTANTINA SECHI

This new edition of the guide is published in 2017 which is a special year as it happens to be the Anno dei Borghi, a project for Italian towns endorsed by the Ministry for Culture and Tourism, the National Association of Italian Municipalities, the Italian Tourist Board and the countless other associations that for many years have been promoting Italy’s towns. For us it is an extraordinary opportunity to showcase the Lazio region’s prodigious heritage, putting the spotlight on our natural, historical and cultural beauty.

We have long been committed to making our region’s enormous heritage an opportunity for growth and development for the community. A commitment which, after the earthquake of 24th August last year, took on even more urgency, with the overriding mission being to help the areas that had been affected.

In these pages you will discover parts of our region that are not so well known, and this is an invitation to come and delve into the extraordinary history and culture, natural resources, landscapes and panoramas of our small towns, as well as into their rapport with nature, crafts, trades and products.

These towns symbolize everything that is beautiful in Italy, wondrous and fragile treasures that need To discover and enhanced in order to be preserved. Visiting these ancient places means discovering things of infinite splendour while delighting in the flavours, peoples and traditions that make Lazio unique.

Nicola Zingaretti LAGO DEL SALTO - RIETI

“

It is lovely to walk into a town you don’t know, and stroll about among the townspeople

”

and under their houses.

Blowing your nose to sniff the place,

to hear the sounds of a foreign language,

to drink from a fountain and find that the water is different from anywhere else on earth.

[Erri De Luca]

We have chosen to reconnect with the profound dimension of our widespread identity made of millennial stories, an awareness of places, and the valorization of a more conscious exploration of our territory. Towns, itineraries and cultural, historic, archaeological, artistic and gastronomic sites and products. Removed from the spotlight, taking all the time in the world to discover them in their unchanged and extraordinary harmony.

Lazio is one of the richest Italian regions when it comes to history, art and nature. This guide will accompany you as you discover towns, hidden corners and eternally beautiful areas rich in history and identity.

Just a few kilometres from Rome there are little towns just waiting to be discovered that repay the visitor with emotions and stories of life.

A slow and conscious tourism that blends the hankerings of those who come from afar but also of those who live in this country with its enormous heritage of beauty, nature and history. People are the true soul of these towns with their the age-old traditions, and the attention and care put into protecting the common history are those elements which, down the years, we the Regione have made immense efforts to valorize and recognize.

In Italy, perhaps more than in other countries, this heritage is a shared asset that contributes to the definition of our identity and, as such, must be defended as a right of today’s citizens and of future generations. A right formalized by the Constitution that sets forth the mission of the Italian Republic which is that of defending “the territory and the historic heritage of the Nation.”

We hope you will enjoy reading this book.

Massimiliano Smeriglio

TOWNS OF CHARM® Second volume

An inter-regional project co-financed in accordance with Law 135/01 art. 5 par. 5 “Cultural and thematic itineraries in historical Italian towns - part 2”

Editorial Coordination and Art Direction MasterlineItaly / Domenico Zaccaria Translations Pamela McCourt Francescone The file of the publication, in PDF format, is visible at www.visitlazio.com The total or partial reproduction of the text and images is strictly forbidden, both in print and in digital form, without the explicit approval of the Lazio Region

Società Editrice Romana srl Printed on May 2017 at STR PRESS - Via Carpi 19 - Pomezia (Rome) Great care has gone into compiling TOWNS OF CHARM®.

For any changes that occurred after the publication of the volume, for which the publisher is not responsible, please refer to the institutional sites of the municipalities.

www.visitlazio.com

T

he Ministry for Culture and Tourism has declared 2017 the “Anno dei borghi” (Year of the Towns) and the Lazio Region

– in collaboration with seventeen Italian regions, led by Emilia Romagna, is participating in the project “Borghi - Viaggio Italiano” (Towns – Italian Journey) a major initiative which has become strategic for the valorization of Italy’s small towns. This project, which in the initial stage involves some thousand Italian towns certified as ‘Borghi più belli d’Italia’ (Italy’s most beautiful towns), ‘Bandiere Arancioni – TCI’, (Orange Flag – TCI), ‘Borghi Autentici d’Italia’ (Authentic Italian towns) and ‘Gioielli d’Italia’ (Italian gems) - thirty-eight of which are in our region - and is aimed at identifying and promoting Italy’s network of towns, thus allow us to compete on domestic and international markets by creating a truly coordinated system of Italian towns and itineraries linked to them.

A system that can valorize our historical, cultural and environmental heritage, and that can promote quality itineraries for Italian and international visitors even in the low season.

“Borghi - Viaggio Italiano” (Towns- Italian journey) is an inter-re-

gional project aimed at promoting, both on a domestic and international level, destinations with different characteristics that have common traditions and values and are a precious heritage: a veritable “hidden treasure” that can compete on a global level and appeal to refined and cultured visitors.

www.viaggio-italiano.it

Selected images from Photo Contest BelLazio

INDEX OF TOWNS TUSCIA AND MAREMMA LAZIALE Acquapendente  Blera e Civitella Cesi Canepina Capranica Castiglione in Teverina Celleno Cellere Ceri Civita Castellana Corchiano Gallese Gradoli Grotte di Castro Montalto di Castro Onano Proceno San Martino al Cimino Santa Severa Tolfa Valentano Vallerano Vasanello Vetralla Vignanello

page 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

SABINA Cantalice Casaprota Cittareale Colle di Tora Contigliano Cottanello Frasso Sabino Greccio  Mompeo Monteleone Sabino Montelibretti Montenero Sabino Morro Reatino Nerola Petrella Salto Poggio San Lorenzo Posta Rivodutri Rocca SInibalda Roccantica Scandriglia Toffia Torri in Sabina

38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81

ROMA AND ENVIRONS Castello di Porto Isola Farnese Ostia Antica Santa Maria di Galeria

84 85 86 87

CASTELLI ROMANI, MONTI PRENESTINI AND LEPINI Albano Laziale Capranica Prenestina Casape Colonna Gallicano nel lazio Gavignano Gorga Priverno Rocca di Cave Rocca Massima Roccagorga Roccasecca dei Volsci Zagarolo

90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102

CIOCIARIA Alvito Amaseno Aquino Ausonia Campoli Appennino Castro dei Volsci  Castrocielo Esperia Ferentino Filettino Fiuggi Guarcino Isola del Liri Pico  Posta Fibreno Roccasecca Vallecorsa

104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120

RIVIERA DI ULISSE, COSTIERA DI ENEA AND PONTINE ISLANDS

VALLE DELL’ANIENE AND VALLE DEL TEVERE Arsoli Campagnano di Roma Capena Ciciliano Fiano Romano Filacciano Formello Jenne Licenza Mazzano Romano Nazzano Poli

Ponzano Romano Rocca Canterano Rocca Santo Stefano Roiate Roviano  Sant’Oreste Saracinesco Torrita Tiberina

62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73

Cisterna di Latina Fondi Formia Lenola Minturno Monte San Biagio Pratica di Mare

122 123 124 125 126 127 128

KEY: Italy’s most beautiful towns = 

Authentic Towns = 

PROCENO ACQUAPENDENTE

ONANO

CASTIGLIONE IN TEVERINA

GROTTE DI CASTRO

CELLENO

GRADOLI VALENTANO CELLERE

MONTALTO DI CASTRO

VALLERANO CANEPINA VETRALLA

SAN MARTINO AL CIMINO

BLERA E CIVITELLA CESI

VASANELLO VIGNANELLO GALLESE CORCHIANO CIVITA CASTELLANA

CAPRANICA

TOLFA

SANTA SEVERA CERI

TUSCIA AND MAREMMA LAZIALE WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO TASTE

WHAT TO DO

>> Bracciano and Martignano Regional Natural Park

>> Vignanello DOC >> and Aleatico di Gradoli DOC wines

>> Northern Via Francigena

>> Santa Marinella, Macchiatonda Nature Reserve

>> Vallerano, DOP chestnuts

>> Excursions in the Sasso Sughereta oak forest

>> PAT eel and whitefish from Lake Bolsena

>> Trails in the Sorgenti del Timone Park

>> Vetralla, Norchia Necropolis

>> PAT lattarini and whitefish from Lake Bracciano

>> Ceramics Museum in Civita Castellana

>> Palude di Torre Flavia Natural Monument

>> Romana DOP hazelnuts

>> Vulci, Archaeological Natural Park

>> Cerveteri and Tarquinia Etruscan Necropoles >> Pian Sant’Angelo Natural Monument and WWF Oasis >> Nazzano Regional Nature Reserve, Tevere-Farfa >> Marturanum Regional Natural Park

>> Mount Ceriti truffles >> Canepina maccaroni e fieno >> Montalto di Castro PAT green asparagus Onano PAT lentils >> Proceno PAT red garlic

>> Viterbo’s Natural Springs

>> Acquapendente, I pugnaloni (May) >> >> Lake Bolsena, sailing, water skiing and fishing

ACQUAPENDENTE A

16

Altitude 420 m asl

Inhabitants 5,506

Patron Saint Sant’Ermete, August 28th Tourist Information Piazza G. Fabrizio, 17 Tel. 0763 73091 Distance from Rome 150 kms Excursions Hiking trails in the Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve To discover in the surrounding area Treja Valley, Lake Bolsena, Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Sasseto Monumental forest Nearby San Casciano dei Bagni, Allerona, Castel Viscardo, San Lorenzo Nuovo, Castel Giorgio, Grotte di Castro Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, excursions, fishing, sailing, swimming, windsurfing, horseback riding Environmental attractions Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve Events Pugnaloni Festival, Arcata Palio, May Feast of Sant’Antonio di Padua, June Feast of Sant’Ermete, August Camper sites

cquapendente is ten kilometers from Lake Bolsena and near the Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve. Its name is linked to the many waterfalls in the area that flow into the small Paglia stream. There is no sure information regarding the origins of the town, but it is assumed to have been founded by the Etruscans, inhabited by the Romans and then invaded and destroyed by the Lombards. Among the many monuments we find the Medieval remains of the city walls and the cathedral. Tradition would have it that in the magnificent Romanesque crypt, in a chapel which is identical to the one in the basilica in Jerusalem, there are stones with the blood of Christ which were brought here by the Crusaders. The Bishop’s Palace, Municipal Palace and Viscontini Palace are all of interest, and the City Museum has important Renaissance finds of the famous Aquesiana pottery.

>> Not to be missed The Basilica del Santo Sepolcro with the “forest” of twenty-four 9th and 10th century columns in the crypt, the Church of San Francesco with the Renaissance bell tower and 11th century portal, Palazzo Benci-Caterini, Piccioni and Palazzo Costantini. The Museo del Fiore, dedicated to the Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve, is also interesting. >> Curiosity The Pugnaloni, which are very beautiful mosaics of flower petals and leaves, are the main feature of the Madonna del Fiore flower festival. >> On the table Among the local dishes we find Chianina beef, macaroni with walnuts, acquacotta, and Pignattaccia which is a stew cooked in the oven.

The area produces excellent Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil, honey.

Among the sweets we find pangiallo, fregnacce (Frittelloni), Sambuca castagnole and il biscotto di San’Antonio which is a sweet bread shaped like a braid. The Colli Etruschi Viterbo and Tuscia DOC wines are excellent.

CITY OF CHIANINA, SLOW CITY UPPER TUSCIA WINE TRAIL www.comuneacquapendente.it

BLERA E CIVITELLA CESI T he origins of Blera date back to around the 8th-7th century B.C. the most important being the Etruscan period when, under the influence of Tarquinia and then of Cerveteri, the town expanded and was enhanced by numerous cemeteries around the settlement. The visitor finds himself surrounded by portals, windows, coats of arms and architectural elements that are all completely different one from the other and are the result of the different periods of domination. A demolished tower, a wall and a garden in the Piazza Nova square are the backdrop for the row of ancient carved arches in the tufa wall marking the old road that lead down towards the Canale river. In Orto Silvano we can see the necrepoles of Ponton Graziolo Terrone and Casetta while, in the center of the town, we find the Palazzo Tornaforte and the Palazzo del Barone (or Palazzaccio), once the residence of the Anguillara family. Civitella Cesi is the only hamlet in the municipality of Blera and still has winding streets which are particularly popular with motorcyclists.

Altitude 270 m asl Inhabitants 3,344

17

Patron Saint San Vivenzio, December 11th Tourist Information Via Roma, 8 Tel. 0761470093 Distance from Rome 75 kms Excursions Treja Valley To discover in the surrounding area Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Lake Bolsena Nearby Vetralla, Monte Romano, Tolfa, Canale Monterano, Barbarano Romano, Vejano, Villa San Giovanni in Tuscia

>> Not to be missed Among the religious buildings we can admire the Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo and San Vivenzio, which has 16th century doors and windows, the Church of the Madonna delle Lacrime (the cemetery chapel) and the beautiful San Vivenzio Grottos, in the church of the same name. >> Curiosity Angelo Peruzzi, former footballer and 2006 World Champion, was born in Blera in 1970. >> On the table Lentils with sausages and the famous acquacotta of Viterbo. At the Civitella Cesi Fettuccine with truffles Festival you can enjoy truffles and grilled meats. The Rocciata, a cake with hazelnuts is an outstanding product of the Tonda Gentile Romana Cornylus Avellana cultivar species. Blera is in the area of the production of Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and Tuscia DOC wines.

CITY OF THE HAZELNUT www.comuneblera.gov.it

Sports Excursions, cycling, motorcycling Events Gnocchi with mutton Festival, Fettuccine with truffles and local products Festival, August San Vivenzio Festival, December Camper sites

CANEPINA T

18

Altitude 501 m asl

Inhabitants 3,082

Patron Saint Santa Corona, May 14th Tourist Information Piazza Garibaldi, 23 Tel. 0761 750990 Distance from Rome 73 kms Excursions Monti Cimini, Treja Valley To discover in the surrounding area The Cavonelli fountain, a green area a few kilometres from the town is easily reached by bicycle Nearby Soriano nel Cimino, Viterbo, Vallerano, Caprarola Environmental attractions Monti Cimini Sports Cycling, trekking Events Feast of Sant’Antonio Abate, January Feast of Santa Corona, May Chestnut Festival, October Fieno e Maccarone Festival, June Camper sites

he town of Canepina lies at the foot of the Monti Cimini range surrounded by a chestnut forest. The name derives from the town’s activity during the Middle Ages when, thanks to the rich soil and many rivers, it was a centre for the cultivation of hemp. Archaeological finds prove that the town was founded by the Etruscans and, in the Middle Ages, belonged to the powerful Di Vico prefects. The Castle, Palazzo Farnese which was built in the 16th century and currently houses the municipal offices, and the Church of the Madonna del Carmine, inside which you can admire paintings and frescoes of the 15th century, are all worth visiting. The ancient Church of Santa Corona, built in 1200 which has been restored and today is under constant maintenance, is also interesting. Water is a characteristic natural element of this town, and flows from the Fontanella Spring and also from the Via Umberto and Fontanile Cavonelli fountains which are next to the ancient chestnut grove. >> Not to be missed The majestic Castle of Anguillara then the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, built in the Middle Ages, the Church of San Michele Arcangelo and the Museum of Folk Traditions with its numerous ancient traditional artefacts.

>> Curiosity Every year on June 5th the anniversary of the 1944 bombing which killed more than 115 people in Canepina is celebrated. The bombing, carried out by the Americans to prevent the retreat of the Germans, hit the centre of the Church of San Giovenale and nearby homes.

CAPRANICA P

erched on a cliff this ancient town, consisting mainly of 16th century houses and buildings, is very characteristic and is in the Monti Cimini and Sabatini Hills. Capranica was dominated by the Anguillara family, was ruled by various nobles and entrusted to different popes. With abundant water and forests Anguillara Rocca, which is the oldest area, is accessed through the Porta del Ponte gate. Thanks to its strategic position (linked to central and northern Etruria) Capranica was an important center from ancient times up to the Middle Ages. It has many important buildings including the Church of the Madonna del Piano with a façade attributed to Vignola and the Church of Santa Maria in Capranica, probably dating back to the 13th century of which we can still admire the original late-Romanesque bell tower. The 16th century Cathedral of San Giovanni which has a Romanesque bell tower, was rebuilt in the 1700s .In the nave there is a Renaissance tabernacle, a 16th century wooden crucifix and a beautiful organ. >> Not to be missed Worthy of note are the main buildings including the Church of Santa Maria, the Romanesque Church of San Francesco which was restored by Antonio Muoz in 1927, and the Cathedral of San Giovanni. Also worth visiting are the Castle of the Anguillaras and the Clock Tower.

>> Curiosity Petrarch stayed in Capranica, waiting there with the Anguillara family, the nobility and patrons and lovers of the arts before being crowned in the Campidoglio.

>> On the table Among the typical products we find chestnuts, the local olives, Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and the hazelnuts which are used to make biscuits, donuts and other sweets, are also excellent. Among the culinary specialties we find Canepina macaroni e fieno which is a homemade pasta and Ciciliani a type of pasta made with a cooking iron. And then there are the excellent IGT Cimini Hills wines.

>> On the table As well as Roman dishes like bucatini all’amatriciana and fried mozzarella, you must taste the spelt polenta with truffles and the desserts with hazelnuts like the Viterbo tozzetti biscuits and gingerbread as well as the sweets, nougats, crispy typical hazelnut cakes and spreads.

The area also produces Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and Colli Cimini IGT wines.

CITY OF THE CHESTNUT www.comune.canepina.vt.it

CITY OF THE HAZELNUT www.comune.capranica.vt.it

Altitude 370 m asl Inhabitants 6,487

19

Patron Saint San Terenziano, September 1st Tourist Information Corso Francesco Petrarca, 40 Tel. 0761 66791 Distance from Rome 60 kms Excursions Monti Cimini To discover in the surrounding area Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Lake Bolsena Nearby Sutri, Ronciglione, Vetralla, Vejano, Barbarano Romano, Bassano Romano Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Environmental attractions Monti Cimini

Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking Events Feast of San Terenziano, Cocciarelle Procession, September

CASTIGLIONE IN TEVERINA T

20

Altitude 228 m asl

Inhabitants 2,329

Patron Saint SS. Filippo e Giacomo, May 3rd Madonna della Neve, August 5th Tourist Information Piazza Maggiore, 2 Tel. 0761 948301

Distance from Rome 108 kms Excursions Tuscia Maremmana, Treja Valley, Calanchi Valley To discover in the surrounding area Lake Bolsena, Lake Vico, Viterbo’s Natural Springs Nearby Orvieto, Lubriano, Bagnoregio, Civitella d’Agliano Environmental attractions Calanchi Valley, Teverina Gorges Sports Excursions, cycling Events Feast of SS. Filippo and Giacomo, May Feast of the Madonna della Neve, August Feast of San Martino, Oil, Mushrooms and Wine, November

his town in the Tiber valley is in a beautiful natural setting with many forests and lush vegetation.

The story of Castiglione in Teverina dates back to the Etruscans, but today’s town goes back to around the year 1000 when some inhabitants, who had to flee from Paterno after it was destroyed by the Monaldeschis in 1351, joined the few people living in homes scattered around the hill. The old town centre is built around the fortress and consists of many small old houses as well as the Collegiate Church of San Filippo and Giacomo (finished in 1630). The facade of the church, in Renaissance style, it divided into two floors each of which is divided into three areas by pillars. Not far from the town we find Lake Bolsena and the Calanchi Valley, two nature reserves which are ideal for relaxing holidays. >> Not to be missed The Church of San Rocco with a small bell tower, the Church of the Madonna delle Macchie the façade of which has a gable frame, and the Collegiate Church of SS. Filippo e Giacomo. The MUVIS Museum of Wine and Food Sciences, which is Italy’s largest Italian wine museum, is in former wine cellars and is also well worth a visit. >> Curiosity The annual Wine Festival is a well-established event: five days featuring wineries and their cellars, to taste the local wines paired with gastronomic products from the Teverina area.

CELLENO C

elleno stands on a tufa rock outcropping surrounded by two streams. This charming town overlooks Lake Bolsena in an area with abundant greenery used as pasturelands and for the cultivation of olive and cherry trees. The historical center is the soul of the area, now deserted, with the Orsini Castle and small houses in red tufa. Regarding the early settlements there are records dating back to the 13th century B.C., but the area was probably already inhabited in the Neolithic age. Its strategic position on the road to Viterbo made it attractive to the Etruscans and later the Romans, up to 774 when Charlemagne returned Celleno and other feudal estates to the Church. The village is part of the Teverina Wine Trail, an itinerary that includes Lubriano, Civita di Bagnoregio and also Bomarzo, Castiglione in Teverina, Celleno, Civitella of Agliano and Graffignano.

Altitude 407 m asl Inhabitants 1,355

21

Patron Saint Santo Crocifisso, September 14th Tourist Information Piazza della Repubblica, 8 Tel. 0761 912002 Distance from Rome 106 kms

>> Not to be missed The beautiful old centre, know as the Paese Vecchio with the Medieval Orsini Castle, the Church of San Rocco and springs such as L’Acqua Forte, so called for its pleasant ferruginous flavour. >> Curiosity According to some the name Celleno derives from cell, in the sense of grotto with the suffix - anus that may have a relevant significance.

>> On the table The excellent Colli Etruschi, Tuscia Viterbo and Orvieto DOC white and red wines. Among the typical products we also find the Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and cheeses such as pecorino and caciocavallo. Typical dishes include focaccia with pork, pasta with clams and mushrooms, ravioli with truffles and pecorino, roast fish and Colonnata lard.

>> On the table Typical local products of the area include the cherry and the Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil. Among the typical dishes we find baked whitefish, lake fish, sea bream crusted with zucchini and potatoes, pasta with chestnuts, chickpea and chestnut soup. In the area there are many vineyards producing the excellent Colli Etruchi Viterbesi, Tuscia DOC and IGT Lazio white and red wines.

CITY OF WINE, WINE TRAIL OF UPPER TUSCIA TEVERINA WINE TRAIL www.castiglione.teverina.it

CITY OF THE CHERRY TEVERINA WINE TRAIL www.comune.celleno.it

Excursions Nazzano Regional Nature Reserve, Marturanum Tevere-Farfa Natural Regional Park To discover in the surrounding area Treja Valley, Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Lake Bolsena, Tevere Valley Nearby Bagnoregio, Viterbo Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling Events Cherry Festival, June Feast of the Holy Crucifix, September

CELLERE

22

Altitude 344 m asl Inhabitants 1,188

Patron Saint Sant’Egidio, September 1st Tourist Information Via Cavour, 90 Tel. 0761 451791 Distance from Rome 140 kms Excursions Trails in the Sorgenti del Timone Park To discover in the surrounding area The beaches of the Etruscan Riviera

C

elere sits on a hill in the green countryside of Tuscia with panoramic views over the Tiber Valley. The etymological analysis ascribes Roman origins to the town, linked to an ancient town called Cellae Cerris although some scholars believe it derives from Ceres, the goddess of the harvest.

During the Middle Ages the town fell under the rule of Viterbo and in 1254 became a possession of Toscanella, which is now Tuscania. In 1649 it was returned to the Holy See and at the end of the 19th century it was annexed to the Kingdom of Italy. The Farnese dominion coincides with the period of greatest splendour of the town and the Rocca Farnese fortress was built in a dominant position, connected to the town by a bridge called the Ponte della Rocca.

The main cultivation is olives which received the EU DOC Canino recognition for the quality of its oil. The Museo del Brigantaggio, which opened in 2007 tells the story of banditry in Maremma from the second half of the 19th century to the present day and is well worth visiting. >> Not to be missed The Church of Sant’Egidio, commissioned by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese to Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, is the most important architectural monument dedicated to the town’s patron saint, is on a Greek cross plan and has frescoes. The Farnese Fortress and the Palace of Justice are also worth a visit.

Nearby Tarquinia, Celleno, Montalto di Castro, Ischia di Castro, Valentano, Tessennano, Canino, Piansano, Artena di Castro Environmental attractions Sorgenti del Timone Park Sports Trekking, excursions, cycling, horseback riding, mountain biking Events Cellere tra Natura e Tradizione Festival, Feast of Sant’Egidio, September

>> Curiosity The Parco delle Sorgenti del Timone is a pristine area of great natural beauty south of the town, ideal for walking or mountain-bike excursions.

CERI T

his town was founded in 1236 on an earlier 7th century settlement belonging to the inhabitants of nearby Cerveteri who moved there for the great location dominating the valley.

The gate in the rock leads into the small and charming town which has narrow streets carved into the tufa, and the square with the Church of the Madonna di Ceri where the goddess Vesta was once worshipped. In the church, which underwent repeated alterations between the 11th century and the first decades of the 12th century, they brought to light frescoes depicting scenes from the Old Testament and the story of San Silvestro’s life. From nearby Cerveteri you can get to the Etruscan necropoles of Sorbo and della Banditaccia declared UNESCO world heritage sites in 2004. In the area called Vignali you can admire the Porta Coperta gate which leads to the necropolis of the Cava Pozzolana. The several attractive waterfalls around the Fosso della Mola are a real treat for nature lovers and excursionists.

Altitude 108 m asl Inhabitants 98

23

Patron Saint San Felice, January 14th Tourist Information Piazza Risorgimento, 1 Tel. 06 896301 Distance from Rome 53 kms Excursions Sughereta del Sasso, Fosso della Mola

>> Not to be missed The Palazzo Torlonia and the Church of San Felice. >> Curiosity The Banditaccia necropolis is the most extensive among those existing from ancient times. It is a UNESCO site set in a picturesque park with paths winding among the graves and with sound, light and spectacular three-dimensional effects. In the new center there is a perfect copy of the Sarcophagus of the Spouses by Giorgetto Giugiaro.

>> On the table Among the typical products we find the Canino DOP extra virgin olive oil, one of the excellent DOP products of the area, and the Alta Tuscia, Tuscia DOC and Colli Etruschi Viterbesi wines. Other local specialties include acquacotta, vegetable soups, crostini and bruschetta.

And don’t miss the lombrichelli in spicy sauce and the famous biscuits of Sant’Egidio.

>> On the table Among the typical products we find grapes which are mainly used for white wines like Trebbiano, Malvasia and Chardonnay. A recent discovery is the very ancient vine called giacchè with a very strong and full-bodied flavour.

Other local products are artichokes, peaches, honey, Monti Ceriti truffles and locally produced extra virgin olive oil.

CITY OF OIL www.comune.cellere.vt.it

CITY OF UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES www.comune.cerveteri.rm.it

To discover in the surrounding area Monterozzi Etruscan Necropoles, Demoni Azzurri Tomb Nearby Anguillara Sabazia, Bracciano, Fiumicino, Ladispoli, Tolfa, Santa Marinella Environmental attractions Monti Cimini Sports Cycling, trekking Events Feast of San Felice, January Ceretano Typical Products Festival, April Colli Ceriti Wine Festival, August

CIVITA CASTELLANA T

24

Altitude 145 m asl

Inhabitants 16,777

Patron Saint SS. Giovanni e Marciano, September 16th Tourist Information Piazza G. Matteotti, 3 Tel. 0761 5901 Distance from Rome 53 kms Excursions Via Amerina, Monte Gelato waterfalls

his is the most densely populated and liveliest town in the lower Viterbo area. It stands on a tufa plain with steep tufa slopes and is famous for being the capital of the Falisci population in pre-Roman days, as well as having Italy’s and the world’s most important ceramics industry.

The town lies on the ancient Falerii Veteres, a Falisco site close to the Treja river. The Falisci were an Italic people who reached a high level of civilization and in Forte Sangallo you can visit the National Museum of the Agro Falisco, inaugurated in 1977, which has on display artefacts from ancient Civita Castellana and its surrounding areas. The characteristic red tufa of the area is thanks to the Vicano volcano and its eruptions which have created deep gorges and an extraordinary and suggestive landscape. >> Not to be missed The Cathedral, built by the Cosmati has a 12th century façade and a portico with a large 1210 central arch, the Forte Sangallo, the Ceramics Museum, the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine and the Vignale archaeological area.

To discover in the surrounding area Treja Valley and Via Amerina, Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Lake Vico Nearby Magliano Sabina, Nepi, Sant’Oreste, Gallese, Corchiano, Fabrica di Roma, Castel Sant’Elia, Faleria Environmental attractions Monti Sabatini and Cimini Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking Events Carnival, Feast of Santi Marciano e Giovanni, Medieval Historic Re-enactments, September Camper sites

>> Curiosity The Ceramic Museum has a collection of vases, plates, artefacts and painted tiles testifying to the skill of the most important local ceramic masters. The new museum has many new works donated by individuals, and artistic ceramics from the State Institute of Art. >> On the table The typical dishes of Civita Castellana include Frittelloni, pizza with zucchini flowers, lentils and sausages, chickpeas and chestnut soup, fettucine with sauce as well as rigatoni alla mignolo, named after an old local restaurant.

Anyone with a sweet tooth will delight in the local sweet scroccafusi, the Easter pizza, frappes and the buns with cream and honey. The area also produces the excellent Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil.

CITY OF CERAMICS www.comune.civitacastellana.vt.it

CORCHIANO A

corolla of alleyways and little squares overlooking a ravine, which is now a natural monument: this is Corchiano a town which, according to the many remains found in the Faliscan caves in the Fratta river valley has been inhabited since the Stone Age. The Falisci and the Etruscans lived in this area, but the town itself only developed around the 12th century. The many fine churches date back to the Middle Ages when the town was under the Papal State. Among them we find the Basilica of San Biagio, Corchiano’s main church, with a remarkable cycle of votive frescoes painted around 1468 by Lorenzo da Viterbo. Also worth a visit is the Church of the Madonna del Soccorso, work on which began in the 16th century and in which we can admire the beautiful Chapel of Paradise and paintings

by Lorenzo, Bartolomeo and Alessandro Torresani. >> Not to be missed Among the religious architecture, the Church of Sant’Egidio with frescoes attributed to Torresani, and the Baroque Church of the Madonna delle Grazie in rough stone, with the fresco depicting the image of the Madonna. >> Curiosity The Natural Monument and WWF Oasis of Pian Sant’Angelo on an area of over 250 hectares including the ravine, is unique in Europe. This canyon was formed by the major volcanic events typical of Tuscia, followed by a long period of glaciation. >> On the table Try the excellent pizza and, for wine lovers there are the local Colli Cimini IGT, Viganello DOC and Lazio IGT white and red wines. Corchiano’s wine is part of the IGT Colli Cimini on the ARSIAL list and it is excellent when paired with hazelnuts and chestnuts. These quality dried fruits are ideal for sweets, biscuits and donuts. The area also produces excellent Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil which is perfect on bruschettas and salads, and with all the local dishes.

CITY OF THE HAZELNUT www.comune.corchiano.vt.it

Altitude 196 m asl Inhabitants 3,907

25

Patron Saint San Biagio, February 3rd Tourist Information Piazza del Bersagliere, 1 Tel. 0761 572002 Distance from Rome 65 kms Excursions Pian Sant’Angelo Natural Monument and WWF Oasis

To discover in the surrounding area Corchiano Ravines, Lake Vico, Viterbo’s Natural Springs Nearby San Martino al Cimino, Vignanello, Gallese, Civita Castellana, Fabrica di Roma Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Madonna del Soccorso Environmental attractions Pian Sant’Angelo Natural Monument Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking, fishing Events Feast of San Biagio, February.

Infiorata Festival, May Festa del Pescatore Festival, July Living Crib, December-January

GALLESE

26

Altitude 135 m asl Inhabitants 2,849

Patron Saint San Famiano, August 8th Tourist Information Piazza del Duomo, 1 Tel. 0761 49791 Distance from Rome 78 kms Excursions Walks in the Tuscia Maremma

L

egend has it that the first stone of Gallese was laid

by Halesus, son of Agamemnon, who thus founded the Falisci race. The town has ancient origins and many tombs and Etruscan settlements are scattered throughout the area. The old centre, bordered by two rivers, has Medieval origins with walls, the central square and the town square. In 733 Trasimondo, the Duke of Spoleto, sold the town to Gregory III who made it a bishopric. The Church remains a focal point in the history of Gallese, and two popes were born here: Marino I (882-884) and Romano (898) while the area’s spirituality attracted a Cistercian monk who later became San Famiano and is the patron saint of the town. The Church of San Famiano has four aisles and a raised presbytery of great artistic value. >> Not to be missed The interesting Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, a neoclassical church built in 1796 by Pietro Camporese.

Inside we can admire some 17th century paintings and a collection of objects related to the liturgy of Good Friday. Also visit the old town centre with the Church of San Famiano.

To discover in the surrounding area Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Marturanum Regional Natural Park, Civita Castellana ceramics Nearby Orte, Magliano Sabina, Civita Castellana, Corchiano, Vignanello Environmental attractions Pian Sant’Angelo Natural Monument Religious itineraries Church of San Famiano Sports Cycling, trekking Events Festival of Popular Music “Il Suono dei Giorni”, Feast of San Famiano, August Sausage Festival, September

>> Curiosity The actor Ennio Fantastichini was born in Gallese in 1955, and is known for his role in Gianni Amelio’s movie Open House (1989). >> On the table The most traditional dish is acquacotta, but also try the local sausages and the lamb soup known in the Viterbo area as Giubba e Calzoni – jacket and trousers – as it is a complete meal. Among the first courses we find fresh pasta like lombrichelli, straccia pasta, gnocchi col ferro, gnocchi ‘ncotti or strozzapreti. Among the desserts don’t miss those with hazelnuts, a typical local product.

There is also the excellent Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and the Colli Cimini IGT and DOC Vignanelo wines.

CITY OF THE HAZELNUT www.comune.gallese.vt.it

GRADOLI “I

f you want to live forever, in Gradoli in summer, in Canino in winter,” wrote Pope Paul III and he could not have found more significant words to describe this town. Gradoli’s origins date back to the Middle Ages when, in today’s Pergola, they built an imposing castle and a steep stairway (gradus in Latin) from which the town derives its name. When you enter the town through the Arco di Ciuchini arch, which was the ancient gateway, you can admire the Palazzo Farnese designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger and built on the ruins of an ancient fortress. Along the shores of Lake Bolsena, about seven kilometres from the town, we come to the Church of San Magno (15th century) where every August 19th they hold The Forgiveness of San Magno. The faithful who attend this mass can ask for the plenary indulgence granted by Pope Benedetto XIV in 1774. >> Not to be missed Art lovers will appreciate the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Maddalena, the Baroque Church of San Michele Arcangelo which is the oldest in the town, the Church of San Giovanni Decollato with its hospice and the Oratorio della Pietà oratory. Also worth a visit are the Farnese Costume Museum, and the National Center of Studies on the Farnese Family in Palazzo Farnese. >> Curiosity On April 6, 1978 during the kidnapping of Aldo Moro, it was thought the MP was held prisoner in Gradoli, and on orders from the Interior Ministry the police laid siege to the town looking for the place where Moro was hidden. >> On the table Excellent products like Purgatorio beans, Aleatico di Gradoli DOC red dessert wine, the red and white Colli Etruschi Viterbesi or Tuscia DOC, the Montefiascone Est! Est!! Est!!! and the Grechetto which is both red and white. Also try the excellent cheeses, salami, sausages, fresh water fish, olives and olive oil from the hills of Gradoli.

UPPER TUSCIA WINE TRAIL www.comune.gradoli.vt.it

Altitude 470 m asl Inhabitants 1,487

27

Patron Saint Santa Maria Maddalena, July 22nd Tourist Information Piazza Luigi Palombini, 2 Tel. 0761 456082

Distance from Rome 140 kms Excursions Sorgenti del Timone Park To discover in the surrounding area Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Lake Mezzano Nearby Onano, Grotte di Castro, San Lorenzo Nuovo, Latera, Valentano, Capodimonte, Montefiascone, Bolsena Environmental attractions Monti Vulsini, Passo della Montagnola, Lake Bolsena Religious itineraries Church of San Magno Sports Trekking, cycling, carp fishing Events Pranzo del Purgatorio, Ash Wednesday Feast of Santa Maria Maddalena, July Tentavecchie Festival, San Magno’s Forgiveness, August Camper sites

GROTTE DI CASTRO T

28

Altitude 467 m asl

Inhabitants 2,683

Patron Saint SS. Flavio and Faustina, May 7th Tourist Information Piazza Guglielmo Marconi, 6 Tel. 0763 798002 Distance from Rome 145 kms Excursions Selva del Lamone Nature Reserve To discover in the surrounding area The ancient city of Castro, Sorgenti del Timone Park, Vulci Archaeological Park, WWF Oases Nearby Acquapendente, Gradoli, Onano, San Lorenzo Nuovo Environmental attractions Selva del Lamone Natural Reserve, Lake di Bolsena Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Excursions, fishing, trekking, cycling Events Tortello Festival, Feast of SS. Flavio and Faustina, May Potato Festival, August

his town is in the northern part of an ancient volcanic cone in the Volsino mountains. There are many Etruscan tombs in the area as can be seen in the Civita Museum. In fact Grotte di Castro dates back to the Etruscan era, and at the top of the town you can admire the Basilica built in 1625, in which there are interesting paintings and a particular Antiquarium.

Highlights include the Palazzo Innocenzo Iuzzi and the Palazzo del Vignola which is now the Civic Museum and has five windows on the first floor and a handsome spiral staircase. Lovers of archaeology should visit the Pianezze Etruscan necropolis with its 7th and 6th century B.C. tombs. >> Not to be missed As well as the Pianezze necropolis, also worthy of note are the 1625 Basilica of Santa Maria del Suffragio, the Church of San Pietro Apostolo which dates back to the 11th century, the Town Hall designed by Vignola in the 16th century, the great Fontana Grande fountain and the Cento Camere, which is another large Etruscan necropolis. >> Curiosity The Selva del Lamone Natural Reserve, established in 1994, occupies an area of about two thousand hectares with one of Tuscia’s wildest woodlands as well as archaeological remains dating back to the Bronze Age, Etruscan times and the Middle Ages. >> On the table The Alto Viterbese IGP potato is a typical local product and is used for the gnocchi dumplings al ragù or with pesto. Other specialities are the fagottini al pecorino and the Colli Etruschi Viterbesi or Tuscia DOC white and red wines, which are excellent with polenta with lamb and pork bujone, and with wild boar pappardelle, which are popular local dishes.

The area also produces Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil.

UPPER TUSCIA WINE TRAIL www.comune.grottedicastro.vt.it

MONTALTO DI CASTRO M ontalto di Castro, which is spread out on a tufa outcropping on the left bank of the river Fiora not far from the Tyrrhenian Sea, has Medieval origins as can be seen in the small squares, the historic center, the alleyways, arches and walls. The town’s architecture is dominated by the Castello Guglielmi, which was probably built in the 15th century by the Orsini family.

The Town Hall is in Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, and the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is in Via Soldatelli. Close to the Via Aurelia we find the 18th-century fountains of the Tre Cannelle and the Mascherone with long inscriptions, surmounted by the municipal coat of arms. About fourteen kilometers from the village you can visit the Vulci Archaeological and Nature Park, an ancient Etruscan city with necropoles and thousands of tombs including the great mound of Cuccumella, the Cuccumelletta and the Tomba François.

Altitude 42 m asl Inhabitants 9,039

29

Patron Saint SS. Quirino and Candido, March 9th Tourist Information Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 11 Tel. 0766 87011 Distance from Rome 120 kms Excursions Vulci Archaeological Nature Park To discover in the surrounding area Marina di Montalto, Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Etruscan Riviera, Vulci

>> Not to be missed As well as the Vulci Archaeological and Nature Park, visitors can admire the majestic Castello Guglielmi, the Etruscan Bridge, the Castello della Rocca, the splendid Mascherone Fountain and the Palazzo del Chiarone. >> Curiosity Montalto di Castro has the largest photovoltaic station in Europe. At 24MW the plant produces the over 40 thousand MWh per year needed to provide electricity for over 13,000 Italian families. >> On the table Among the typical products we find the green Montalto PAT asparagus, melons, Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil, beans, romaine lettuce, spinach, chards, sheep cheese, creamed donkey’s milk, wine, homemade bread and snails. Typical dishes include cinghiale alla cacciatora and lepre in salmì.

LEGAMBIENTE 4 SAILS BLUE FLAG IN 2016 www.comune.montaltodicastro.vt.it

Nearby Canino, Capalbio, Manciano, Tarquinia, Tuscania Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling Events Feast of SS. Quirino and Candido, March Maremma d’aMare, April The Night of the Cowboys, Montalto’s Green Asparagus Festival, May Melon Festival, July Regina delle Sagre Festival, October Camper sites

ONANO

30

Altitude 510 m asl Inhabitants 995

Patron Saint San Trifone, November 10th Tourist Information Piazza Monaldeschi della Cervara, 1 Tel. 0763 78021 Distance from Rome 147 kms Excursions Itinerary of the Monaldesche fortresses To discover in the surrounding area Treja Valley, Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Lake Bolsena Nearby Sorano, Latera, Gradoli, Grotte di Castro, Acquapendente

T

his little town is in the Volsini moutnains on the border between Lazio and Tuscany, not far from Lake Bolsena and the nature reserve. Alleys and picturesque medieval squares frame the historic old town which is dominated by the fabulous Palazzo dei Monaldeschi, now the Town Hall.

Its origins are ancient and date back to prehistoric times.

The town was inhabited by the Umbrians, Etruscans and Romans while in the Medieval and Renaissance periods work began on the imposing quadrangular fortress of Palazzo Madama and the Rocca fortress. This area is famous for the Onano lentils and also for its nature, meadows, woods, trails and green expanses with splendid itineraries through the Monaldesche fortresses. In the Romanesque Church of the Madonna delle Grazie there are frescoes of the Sienese school. >> Not to be missed Among the monuments of historical and artistic interest we find the Church of Santa Croce which was bombed in 1944, the Church of Santa Maria della Concezione, the Church of the Madonna delle Grazie and the splendid Palazzo Madama. >> Curiosity In the 1800s Lina Cavalieri, the “most beautiful woman in the world,” famous in Italy and abroad for her songs, lived in Onano. D’Annunzio dedicated a copy of his Il Piacere to her calling her “the greatest witness of Venus on Earth.”

Environmental attractions Monti Volsini Sports Cycling, excursions, trekking Events Feast of Sant’Antonio Abate, January Lentil Festival, August Feast of San Trifone, November

PROCENO P

roceno is on a hill on the north-western slopes of the Volsini mountains. Its Medieval architecture can be admired in the Rocca fortress, the defensive towers and many towers from which there are splendid views from Mount Amiata and Radicofani up to the Paglia Valley. According to legend the town was founded by Porsenna and was later invaded by various populations. Many of its buildings date back to Renaissance days, including the 16th century Palazzo which was built by Cardinal Guido Ascanio Sforza, Chamberlain of the Holy Roman Church and Governor of Proceno.

For the visitor the most interesting buildings are the 14th century Church of San Martino, with important works from different periods, and Santa Maria della Neve with a portal on which are carved the symbols of the town: a pig and the keys of Porsenna. The Lazio trail of the Via Francigena, linking Canterbury to Rome, starts from the Castello di Proceno.

>> Not to be missed The Medieval Church of Sant’Agnese and the Church of Santa Maria del Giglio with interesting altars and decorations dating from the 16th century onwards. The old town has many ruined Medieval and Renaissance buildings including Palazzo Sforza, which is now used for exhibitions and conferences. >> Curiosity The Museo della Civilizzazione Contadina, founded in the 80s is in four large rooms in Palazzo Sforza and has on display some two thousand household objects and tools related to the pre-industrial civilization.

>> On the table The typical local dish is Onano lentils with sausages. Other excellent dishes use the Alto Viterbese potatoes, especially for gnocchi dumplings and the biscuit of St. Anthony, a kind of sweet bread shaped like a braid made from very ancient local recipes which are served with the fine Colli Etruschi Viterbesi or Tuscia DOC wines.

>> On the table The most famous local product is the PAT red garlic with its unique colour, which keeps its flavour for up to a year and has a spicy aftertaste. The Alto Viterbese IGP potatoes are used for side dishes or to make gnocchi dumplings. The Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and the Colli Etruschi, Viterbesi and Tuscia DOC wines are all excellent, while the biscotto di San’Antonio PAT is a sweet bread shaped like a braid.

UPPER TUSCIA WINE TRAIL www.comune.onano.vt.it

UPPER TUSCIA WINE TRAIL www.comunediproceno.vt.it

Altitude 410 m asl Inhabitants 568

31

Patron Saint Sant’Agnese Segni, April 20th Tourist Information Piazza della Libertà, 12 Tel. 0763 710092 Distance from Rome 160 kms

Excursions Marturanum Natural Regional Park To discover in the surrounding area Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve Nearby San Casciano dei Bagni, Acquapendente, Sorano, Castell’Azzara, Piancastagnaio Environmental attractions Monti Volsini Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling Events Feast of Sant’Agnes Segni, April Bruschetta Festival, Red Garlic Festival, August

SAN MARTINO AL CIMINO T

32

Altitude 561 m asl

Inhabitants 3,866

Patron Saint San Martino di Tours, November 11th Tourist Information Piazza Martiri di Ungheria s.n.c. Tel. 0761 325992 Distance from Rome 73 kms Excursions Tuscia, Farnese itinerary To discover in the surrounding area Viterbo’s Natural Springs, Lake Vico, Teverina Wine Trail Nearby Canepina, Celleno, Soriano nel Cimino, Caprarola, Vetralla

Environmental attractions Monti Cimini Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Cyclimg, excursions, trekking Events Salvatore Morucci Trophy, September Chestnut and Roasted Chestnut Festival, October Feast of San Martino di Tours, November

his pretty district of Viterbo is a cradle of architectural harmony and artistic beauty and, at the summit of the town center, stands the beautiful Abbey and the 17th century Palazzo Doria Pamphili, built by Olimpia Maidalchini Pamphili, who created many a scandal in her day, and was very close to Pope Innocent X Pamphili who made her Princess of San Martino.

Also known by the nickname Pimpaccia for her racy life Olympia died in San Martino in 1657.

She was responsible for the transformation of the Abbey into a sumptuous palace, the town’s layout and its fortification. The processional banner, commissioned to Mattia Preti for the Jubilee of 1650, has been recently restored.

>> Not to be missed The 13th century Abbey of San Martino al Cimino, a splendid example of Cistercian architecture. The handsome standard by Mattia Preti, the Palazzo Doria Pamphili and the Museum which is in the ancient abbey’s scriptorium and also has Pope Innocent X’s magnificent vestments. >> Curiosity The annual Salvatore Morucci Trophy national bicycle race for under 23s which is in memory of the late cyclist. >> On the table Among the specialties are acquacotta, macaroni with walnuts, porcini mushrooms and potato soup, pasta and beans, the excellent Tuscia DOC wine and Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil.

SANTA SEVERA A

fter a succession of rocky and sandy coves, the coast south of Santa Marinella is interrupted by the town and the Castle of Santa Severa which is isolated on the sea. It was here that the Etruscans founded Pyrgi, the port of today’s Cerveteri, which had a shrine that was famous in ancient days. The Romans erected a castrum here which was destroyed by the Saracens and rebuilt in the 11th century with the name of Severa who had been martyred nearby. In Santa Severa in 1964 they excavated the Pyrgi tablets, three gold leaves some 20 centimetres high and inscribed in both Phoenician and Etruscan which are of major importance for understanding the history and language of the Etruscan people. During the pontificate of Pope Urban VIII the castle passed into the hands of the Barberini family who expanded and refurbished it. In 1887 it became the property of Baldassarre Odescalchi, an ancestor of the current owners, and today it contains the Museum of the Sea and Ancient Navigation, dedicated to maritime commerce in ancient times.

>> Not to be missed As well as the castle in the old town, visit the Archaeological Museum, the Pyrgi Antiquarium, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, Santa Marinella’s seabed with the Macchiatonda Natural Reserve. >> Curiosity Santa Marinella is regularly called the Pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea, mainly due to its location on the sea and its mild climate. >> On the table Dishes with fish like spaghetti with clams, seafood appetizers, tonnarelli alla marinara, grilled fish and sea bass acqua pazza style. Among the typical products we also find the Roman Lazio IGP artichoke, cherries, plums, extra virgin olive oil, IGT Roman Etruscan Coast wine and marzolino cheese.

CITY OF THE HAZLENUT, CITY OF THE CHERRY OIL TRAIL, WINE TRAIL

LEGAMBIENTE 2 SAILS BLUE FLAG IN 2016

www.comune.viterbo.it

www.santamarinella.rm.gov.it

Camper sites

Altitude 7 m asl Inhabitants 660

33

Patron Saint San Giuseppe, March 19th Tourist Information Via Aurelia, 455 Tel. 0766 671500 Distance from Rome 64 kms

Excursions Monti della Tolfa To discover in the surrounding area Cerveteri and Tarquinia Necropoles, Lake Bracciano, Macchiatonda Nature Reserve Nearby Allumiere, Civitavecchia, Tolfa Environmental attractions Macchiatonda Nature Reserve Religious itineraries Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Visitazione Sports Windsurfing, excursions, cycling, trekking, diving, underwater fishing Events Feast of San Antonio, January.

Feast of San Giuseppe, March Fish Festival, October

TOLFA

34

Altitude 498 m asl Inhabitants 5,127

Patron Saint Sant’Egidio Abate, September 1st Tourist Information Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 12 Tel. 0766 93901 Distance from Rome 78 kms Excursions Trails in the Monti della Tolfa To discover in the surrounding area Tolfa Necroples, Pian della Conserva and Ferrone Reserve, Sasso di Furbara medieval village

Nearby Tarquinia, Monte Romano, Cerveteri, Santa Marinella, Canale Monterano, Allumiere Religious itineraries Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Sughera, Sanctuary of the Madonna della Rocca Sports Cycling, trekking, running Events Tolfarte (street performers), Butteri Cowboys Tournament, August Feast of Sant’Egidio Abate, September

P

erched on the Tolfa mountains, this old town is on a distinctive semicircular plan that includes the Castello dei Frangipane, a typical medieval fortress, and the Church della Rocca with panoramic views. In the Tolfa area they have unearthed archaeological finds dating back to the Stone, Copper and Bronze Ages which were followed by the establishment of Etruscan and Roman settlements, the area later being recognized as the property of the Holy See. Tolfa is a pristine area covering over 17,000 hectares with low hills that descend to the sea, and exceptional flora and fauna. The town has received the important Tourism City and City of Art awards. Its showpieces are undoubtedly its crafts, the processing of beef and pork products, leather work and the new Civic Museum which is in the splendid setting of the former Convent of the Augustinian Fathers.

>> Not to be missed The Town Hall, built in 1860, the Castello del Monte della Rocca, the Church of Sant’Egidio Abate with an apse which is part of the walls of medieval Tolfa.

The 17th century Convent and Church of the Capuchins is also worthy of note. >> Curiosity A typical Tolfa menu won first prize in Fiumicino’s agro-eno-gastronomic “I capolavori del gusto” competition. >> On the table The typical dish is acquacotta but sweet and sour codfish with onion, raisins, dried apple quarters, prunes, cherries and dried chilli is also popular.

The local festivals feature first and second courses like steaks and sausages, ghighe, truffles and prosciutto which are served with the fine Costa Etrusco Romana IGT wines. www.comune.tolfa.rm.it

VALENTANO A

35

rriving at the town’s gates you see a group of Medieval houses on a hill in the Volsini chain, surrounded by the Apennine peaks of Mount Amiata and the Monti Cimini range. Archaeological finds brought to light in the surrounding areas show that the town has ancient origins and dates back to the Bronze Age. The Farnese Castle and Rocca Farnese fortress were built by Pier Luigi Farnese around a 13th century manor on the highest point of the town. Splendid views can be enjoyed from the terraces and Lake Mezzano, which can be reached only by walking along dirt roads in an area of great natural beauty. A little more than a kilometer from the lake we come to a huge 300-year-old oak tree classified as one of the oldest in Lazio and declared a Natural Monument by the WWF.

Altitude 538 m asl

>> Not to be missed Visitors can admire the Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Apostolo ed Evangelista, the Church of Santa Maria, the Church of the Santa Croce with a fresco of the Virgin and Child. Other fantastic features are the panoramic Porta Terrazza di San Martino terrace and the palaces in the historic centre.

To discover in the surrounding area Treja Valley, Lake Bolsena

>> Curiosity In 1843 the Etruscologist and English writer George Dennis had the opportunity to visit Valentano. When he came to the northern square he was so surprised by the breathtaking view that he described it as a “splendid terrace” overlooking Lake Bolsena.

Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Madonna della Salute

>> On the table Try the solco dritto PAT chickpeas which are a local speciality and, among the first courses, sweet ricotta cheese ravioli.

Main courses include the excellent lamb bujone, and other typical products are the tuna biche and the PAT pecorino and ricotta. If you have a sweet tooth you will enjoy the biscotto di Ferragosto and the biscuits with walnuts and hazelnuts accompanied by the excellent Tuscia DOC wine.

The Tuscia DOC extra virgin olive oil is particularly fine.

UPPER TUSCIA WINE TRAIL www.comune.valentano.vt.it

Inhabitants 2,868

Patron Saint San Giovanni Apostolo ed Evangelista, December 27th Tourist Information Piazza Cavour, 1 Tel. 0761 453001 Distance from Rome 132 kms Excursions Selva del Lamone Nature Reserve

Nearby Pitigliano, Latera, Gradoli, Capodimonte, Cellere, Farnese, Ischia di Castro, Piansano Environmental attractions Lake Mezzano

Sports Trekking, excursions, cycling, mountain biking, horseback riding

Events Bujone Lamb Festival, August Tiratura del Solco Dritto Festival, August 14th Feast of San Giovanni Apostolo ed Evangelista, December

VALLERANO S

36

Altitude 390 m asl

Inhabitants 2,621

Patron Saint San Vittore, May 8th Tourist Information Piazza A. Xerry De Caro, 13 Tel. 0761 751001 Distance from Rome 68 kms Excursions Marturanum Regional Natural Park To discover in the surrounding area Lake Vico, Viterbo’s Natural Springs

urrounded by Medieval walls, squares and stone steps, this hill town sits on the southern slope of the Monti Cimini mountain range. Its origins are very old, the first traces of a settlement dating back to the Bronze Age, as evidenced by the many artefacts found in Poggio Castello. With many forests, vineyards, chestnut and hazel groves the town is in a very lush setting. The splendid Sanctuary of Maria Santissima del Ruscello dates from the early 17th century and has Giovanni Lanfranco’s painting of the Madonna Assunta in Cielo and Borromeo Pomarancio’s The Ecstasy of San Carlo. The Church of the Crocifisso, another architectural gem just outside Vallerano, has an ancient crucifix and, every year is the venue for an important pilgrimage. >> Not to be missed The interesting old town with the Church of Sant’Andrea, built in 1512, the Romanesque Church of San Vittore Martire with a coffered ceiling, the 12th-century Church of Maria SS. della Pieve which has traces of wall paintings.

Nearby Soriano nel Cimino, Vignanello, Canepina, Fabrica di Roma, Caprarola, Carbognano Environmental attractions Monti Cimini Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Madonna del Ruscello, Church of the Crocifisso Sports Cycling, trekking, excursions Events Miracle Festival Roast Pork Festival, July Feast of San Vittore Night of the Candles, August Chestnut Festival, October

>> Curiosity The town is involved in the Distretto/Creativo cultural workshop project which consists of entertainment, music and theater, training, meetings at schools, festivals and exhibitions. >> On the table The local specialties include the barchette di ricotta e castagna made with the local chestnut which has the DOP label as does the excellent DOP Tuscia extra virgin olive oil. The local hazelnuts are extremely tasty as is the roast pork to which to town dedicates a festival in July.

VASANELLO T

37

he town of Vasanello sits amidst artificial caves, Etruscan tombs and remains of ancient walls. The earliest mention of the town dates back to the 10th century, when it was called Bassanello and was granted as a fiefdom by the Pope to the Abbey of San Silvestro in Rome. The Medieval town is dominated by the imposing Orsini Castle with crenellated walls and angular towers.

It is possible to visit the castle and also the Medieval garden which was a vegetable garden in the 1300s and used by the inhabitants of the castle and the townspeople. The 14th century Abbey of the Madonna delle Grazie with frescoes attributed to the Perugino School (1445/1523) including the Madonna with Blessing Child, is of particular interest. In April for the Porticella in Fiori flower festival the historic center of Vasanello is transformed into a huge flower garden, enhancing the beauty of the Viterbo area.

Altitude 265 m asl

>> Not to be missed Among the architectural gems we find the Church of Santa Maria Assunta with a lovely portico, the Church del Salvatore with its fabulous Romanesque bell tower which has mullioned two and three-arched windows, and the Civic Museum in the Town Hall.

Excursions Monti Cimini, Via Amerina

>> Curiosity Two roads in Rome’s 15th district are named after Vasanello. In the Via Grottarossa (Tomba di Nerone) area we can find the Via Bassanello, so named in 1957 and the Via Vasanello named in 1966.

CITY OF THE CHESTNUT, CITY OF THE HAZLENUT

>> On the table Among the culinary specialties we find hazelnuts, used in the tozzetti biscuits and various kinds of deserts.

The Colli Cimini IGT and Vignanello DOC white and red wines are an excellent accompaniment for local dishes like the flour and egg dumplings which have a typical dome shape. Also worth trying are the cheeses like the caciotta, ricotta and pecorino from the town’s dairies and the Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil.

www.comune.vallerano.vt.it

www.comune.vasanello.vt.it

Inhabitants 4,068

Patron Saint San Lanno Martire, May 5th

Tourist Information Via Roma, 30 Tel. 0761 40891 Distance from Rome 86 kms

To discover in the surrounding area Orte Springs, Viterbo, Acquapendente Nearby Bassano in Teverina, Orte, Gallese, Vignanello, Soriano nel Cimino Environmental attractions Monti Cimini Sports Trekking, cycling Events Feast of San Lanno, May Dumpling Festival, July/August Camper sites

VETRALLA T

38

Altitude 300 m asl

Inhabitants 14,037

Patron Saint Sant’Ippolito, August 13th Tourist Information Piazza Umberto I, 1 Tel. 0761 46691 Distance from Rome 71 kms

Excursions Marturanum Regional Natural Park To discover in the surrounding area Treja Valley, Lake Vico Nearby Capranica, Caprarola, Ronciglione, Viterbo, Monte Romano, Blera, Barbarano Romano, Villa San Giovanni in Tuscia Environmental attractions Monti Cimini Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, trekking, excursions Events Trofeo dell’Uomo Cavallo Festival, Lo Spozalizio dell’Albero, May Feast of Sant’Ippolito, August.

Oil Festival, December Camper sites

he town is part of the Monti Cimini Mountain Community and was inhabited by both the Etruscans and the Romans. Its historic Medieval centre includes an impressive city wall and the Castle. The numerous graves brought to light outside the town suggest that ancient Vetralla was originally a Villanovian Pagus. Walking through the old town you come to the Romanesque Church of San Francesco built on the remains of a previous building, and the Cathedral in classical style. This area was long contested by popes and by the lords of Viterbo and, even today, the Mayor of Vetralla, at the ceremony of the Spozalizio dell’Albero, reaffirms the town’s rights of control over Monte Fogliano.

It is worth visiting Norchia and its prehistoric, Etruscan, Roman and Medieval archaeological site. The three main necropoles are the Tomba Prostila, the Tomba delle Tre Teste and the Tomba Smurinas. >> Not to be missed Visitors can admire the Church of San Pietro, the Church of San Francesco, the War Memorial, designed by Pietro Canonica, and the Museo della Città e del Territorio. Also noteworthy is the Regina Pacis Monastery and the Norchia rock necropolis. >> Curiosity The Complesso Bandistico Ottavio Pistella band, formed in 1853, currently consists of 52 elements.

>> On the table Excellent Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and broccoli and borage fritters. Among the main courses we find roast pork, venison, coniglio in salmì, and then there are the tozzetti biscuits with Colli Cimini hazelnuts, nociata, chestnuts and gingerbread.

The local ricotta cheese is excellent.

VIGNANELLO A

ccording to scholars Vignanello already existed in prehistoric times. In the days of the Falisci and the Etruscans it was an active urban center as witnessed by the necropolis in the Valle della Cupa. The village became a real town in the 9th century B.C. Strolling through its narrow streets and charming squares you come upon the most important buildings, including the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria dating back to 1700 and the Castello Ruspoli built in 1531. The castle’s current form is due to the reconstruction which Antonio da Sangallo the Younger carried out between 1531 and 1538, when the Medieval fortress was transformed into the majestic gray stone castle we can see today. The fabulous Ottavia Orsini gardens in the castle make this architectural complex one of the most beautiful monuments in the Lazio region.

Inhabitants 4,724

39

Patron Saint San Biagio and Santa Giacinta, February 3rd Tourist Information Corso G. Matteotti, 12 Tel. 0761 7563200 Distance from Rome 69 kms Excursions Monti Cimini, Via Amerina To discover in the surrounding area Marturanum Regional Natural Park

>> Not to be missed Visit the 1614 Church of San Giovanni Decollato, the Church dei Santissimi Angeli Custodi, built in 1705 at the top of the village of Molesino, and the 1692 Porta del Molesino gate, also called the Porta del Vignola and designed by the Roman architect Mattia de Rossi. >> Curiosity Handel, the famous composer, spent the entire summer of 1707 at the court of Vignanello, as a guest of the arts patron Francesco Maria Ruspoli. >> On the table Among the local dishes we find the gnocchi co’ i fero with a sausage and pecorino cheese sauce. The great Tuscia DOP extra virgin olive oil and the hazelnuts which are used in desserts such as the tozzetti and crucchi. Another popular sweetmeat is the pamparito which is eaten with cured meats, boiled eggs and caciotta. There are also excellent wines like the Greco di Vignanello, the Vignanello Superiore, the Santa Bruna, the Rulliano, the Domenico and the Colli Cimini IGT which comes in a variety of different types.

CITY OF OIL, CITY OF THE HAZELNUT www.comune.vetralla.vt.gov.it

Altitude 369 m asl

CITY OF WINE, CITY OF THE HAZELNUT www.comune.vignanello.vt.it

Nearby Vasanello, Gallese, Soriano nel Cimino, Corchiano, Vallerano, Fabrica di Roma, Viterbo Environmental attractions Monti Cimini Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling Events Feast of San Biagio and Santa Jacinta, February Wine Festival, August.

Oil and New Wine Festival, November

CITTAREALE

POSTA MORRO REATINO RIVODUTRI GRECCIO CANTALICE CONTIGLIANO COTTANELLO TORRI IN SABINA PETRELLA SALTO ROCCANTICA ROCCA SINIBALDA CASAPROTA MOMPEO

POGGIO SAN LORENZO

MONTELEONE SABINO COLLE DI TORA MONTENERO SABINO TOFFIA FRASSO SABINO NEROLA MONTELIBRETTI SCANDRIGLIA

SABINA WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO TASTE

WHAT TO DO

>> Laghi Lungo e Ripasottile Nature Reserve

>> Strengozze alla Cantaliciana

>> Francesco’s Way

>> Monti Cervia e Navegna Nature Reserve and the Forra di Riancoli

>> Sabina DOC extra virgin olive oil

>> Cottanello, San Cataldo Hermitage

>> Petrella Salto truffles

>> Cittareale craft beer

>> Frasso Sabino, Massacci Grotto

>> Monteleone Sabino’s Fettuccine alla Trebulana

>> Le Gole del Farfa Natural Monument, Mompeo

>> Colle di Tora’s beans and peas

>> Petrella Salto, Lake Salto >> Via Salaria and Velino Gorges >> Rivodutri, Santa Susanna Spring >> Farfa Abbey and Museum of Silence >> Rocchette and Rocchettine

>> Greccio’s Cannelloni alla francescana >> Sabina’s Fregnacce >> Monti di Cottanello suckling pig >> Rivodutri biological trout and river shrimps

>> Pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of San Felice in Cantalice >> Excursions on Lake Turano, Santuary of Greccio and Crib Museum >> San Michele Arcangelo Collegiate and San Pastore Abbey, Contigliano >> Visit to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Ponticelli di Scandriglia >> Walk to the Church of Santa Vittoria and the catacombs in Monteleone Sabino >> Astronomic Observatory, Cassegrain planetarium and telescope in Frasso Sabino >> Visit to Roccasinibalda Castle >> Visit to the town and Castle of Montenero Sabino

CANTALICE P

42

Altitude 660 m asl

Inhabitants 2,755

Patron Saint San Felice da Cantalice, May 18th Tourist Information Piazza della Repubblica, 1 Tel. 0746 653119 Distance from Rome 101 kms Excursions To Rieti’s lakes, Lupo Pass and Terminillo To discover in the surrounding area Castle Labro, Faggio di San Francesco Nearby Rieti, Poggio Bustone, Rivodutri Environmental attractions Laghi Lungo e Ripasottile Nature Reserve, Monte Terminillo

erched on a hill near Mount Terminillo the town is divided into Upper Cantalice with the old centre, and Lower Cantalice which is the new town. Built around the 12th century when Sopra Castello Rocca and Rocca di Sotto merged, Cantalice extends vertically along a steep rocky promontory and has a characteristic staircase cutting through it. The houses overlap up to the 18th century church dedicated to San Felice inside which there is an altarpiece of the Baby Jesus with some angels. The parish church, dedicated to Santa Maria del Popolo, has a 17th century painting of the Last Supper, while in the lower part of the village the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie has a beautiful wooden statue of the Madonna. >> Not to be missed The Church of the Pace, the Medieval village and Palazzo Ramacogi with the 16th century five-arched loggia. >> Curiosity Felice Porri was born in Cantalice between 1510 and 1515 and took his vows after he miraculously escaped death when he was trampled by some young bulls. He was beatified in 1625 and canonised in 1712. The Sanctuary of San Felice da Cantalice is now a pilgrimage site.

Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way, Benedetto’s Way, Santuary of San Felice dell’Acqua Sports Cycling, trekking, mountain biking Events Feast of San Felice, May Fregnacce Festival, August Strengozze Festival, September

CASAPROTA T

he origins of this town date back to the 10th century when the fundus Casaprotae belonged to the Abbey of Farfa, although the many pre-Roman and Roman finds brought to light throughout the surrounding area bear witness to the struggle between the Sabines and Romans at the time of the founding of Rome. In 776 the name of casa perotae first appeared presumably from the ancient name of the town which was owned by Ildebrando the Duke of Spoleto. Of particular note in the center are the Renaissance entrance gate with the stone holders for the hinges of the door and the inner barrel vault, the old Filippi mansion in the highest part of Casaprota, with the adjoining circular tower and the Church of San Domenico which was restored and extended by Cardinal Ippolito Vincenti Mareri in the early 19th century. The hamlet of Collelungo has the characteristic Medieval urban structure with narrow and winding streets and towers on the old walls that have been converted into homes.

>> Not to be missed Strolling through the streets of the Medieval village stop to admire the Palazzo Filippi and the Church of San Domenico. >> Curiosity Casaprota has a band called the Casaprota Philharmonic Society.

>> On the table Typical dishes include the strengozze alla Cantaliciana, pasta with oil, garlic and chilli pepper, tomato and marjoram; vegetable soups and fettuccine with mushrooms.

Local products include the Cicolano PAT red chestnut, cheese and mushrooms.

The crepes with truffles, bruschetta with lard, lamb hunter-style, and wild boar with chestnuts are also excellent.

>> On the table The typical product of the area is the extra virgin olive oil. In 1995 it was given the SABINA DOP appellation for the Carboncella, Leccino, Frantoio and Olivastro varieties. Also enjoy the truffles, bruschette and sausages and among the local specialties we find the fregnacce alla Sabinese, spelt soup and fettuccine with porcini mushrooms.

www.comune.cantalice.ri.it

www.comune.casaprota.ri.it

Altitude 523 m asl Inhabitants 744

43

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September 29th Tourist Information Via IV Novembre, 4 Tel. 0765 85005 Distance from Rome 63 kms Excursions Aniene Valley and Monti Sabini

To discover in the surrounding area Underground Rieti Nearby Montenero Sabino, Torricella in Sabina, Poggio San Lorenzo, Mompeo, Frasso Sabino, Monteleone Sabino Environmental attractions Monti Sabini Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling Events Bruschetta Festival, January Feast of San Michele Arcangelo, September Camper sites

CITTAREALE T

44

Altitude 962 m asl

Inhabitants 482

Patron Saint San Rocco, August 16th Tourist Information Piazza Santa Maria, 2 Tel. 0746 947032 Distance from Rome 136 kms Excursions Selvarotonda, Monte Pozzoni and Velino Springs

To discover in the surrounding area Lake Scandarello, Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park Nearby Accumoli, Amatrice, Greccio, Borbona, Leonessa, Posta Environmental attractions Selvarotonda Religious itineraries Sanctuary of Capodacqua Sports Skiing, cycling, trekking, mountain biking Events Reale bike, May Festival of the Mutton Chop, Feast of San Rocco, August Nitriti d’Autunno, September Camper sites

he recent excavations in the Falacrina Valley, below Cittareale, have unearthed a valuable collection of mosaics, tools and jewels which are on display in the Archaeological Museum, where you can relive the ancient settlement where Vespasian, emperor of the gens Flavia, was born in 9 A.D. The town as we can see it today, albeit with modifications, dates back to Roberto d’Angiò who, in 1329, built a fortress, La Rocca, on a triangular plan which was quite a rarity and was built over previous fortifications in just three years from 1489 to 1492. The Capodacqua Sanctuary also dates back to the Middle Ages. >> Not to be missed The Archaeological Museum, the archaeological area of Vicus Phalacrinae, the Sanctuary of Capodacqua which was built for the miraculous discovery of a statue of the Madonna and Child in the waters of the Velino spring, and the Grotto which is 470 m deep and suitable only for experienced cavers. >> Curiosity From the fire that destroyed the Church of San Antonio in 1683, they extracted the intact ciborium with the consecrated hosts. The same miracle occurred with the earthquake of 1703 when the miraculous relic was stolen and taken to Leonessa, and only with much effort did Cittareale get it returned to the church.

COLLE DI TORA T

he town has Roman origins and, up to the end of the 1800s, was called Collepiccolo and was on a hill on the banks of the Tora river. In the 1930s the hydroelectric dam was built, forming lakes Turano and Salto and turning Colle di Tora into a charming town on the water, as fascinating by day as it is by night when the lights reflect in the still waters. It is so in tune with the surrounding forests and mountains that it got the name of Little Switzerland. It winter it is like a fairy tale and in summer is lively and is perfect for all kinds of excursions and sports like diving and fishing. On a stroll through the old town, past the Castle and the Church of San Lorenzo, you come across beautiful views. >> Not to be missed Lake Turano, the Church of Santa Anatolia and the remains of a Roman tomb with a dedication to Caracalla. > Curiosity The Sentiero Italia trail with its 6,000 kilometres links the mountains of Italy through the Monti Navegna and Cervia Nature Reserve. Golden eagles and sparrow hawks nest in this picturesque scenery of forests, gorges and streams.

>> On the table Typical dishes include mutton chops, amatriciana spaghetti, gricia pasta, and nettle ravioli.

And among the local products we find sheep and goat cheese, fresh ricotta, truffles, polenta, chestnut honey, Cicolano PAT red chestnuts and spelt.

>> On the table Typical local products include PAT beans and peas which are exclusive to this area and arrive on the table as the excellent pasta and bean soup. The local truffles, chestnuts, beans, sausages and polenta are also excellent. Typical dishes include the pizzullu coll’erbe, bread made with wheat flour, cooked on the grill and accompanied with wild chicory, the potato gnocchi with mutton sauce and pecorino, the lamb kebabs, local meat and grilled lake fish, especially the very tasty rosciola.

www.comune.cittareale.ri.gov.it

www.comune.colleditora.ri.it

Altitude 542 m asl Inhabitants 372

45

Patron Saint San Lorenzo, August 10th Tourist Information Via Colle della Madonna, 6 Tel. 0765 716139 Distance from Rome 87 kms Excursions Monti Cervia and Navegna Nature Park To discover in the surrounding area Monte Antuni, Castle of Tora Baronial Castle of Collalto Sabino Nearby Rocca Sinibalda, Pozzaglia Sabina, Poggio Moiano Environmental attractions Lake Turano Religious itineraries Benedetto’s Way Sports Trekking, excursions, fishing, cycling, climbing, canyoning, water skiing, sailing Events Pizzillu coll’erbe Festival, June Rosciola Festival, July Feast of San Lorenzo, August Bean and Pea Festival, October Camper sites

CONTIGLIANO Y

46

Altitude 488 m asl

Inhabitants 3,783

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September 29th Tourist Information Via Municipio, 3 Tel. 0746 707362 Distance from Rome 85 kms

Excursions Hiking Routes in San Tomeo, Capo Canale, San Lorezno and Fonte Onnina, Conca Rieti Cycle Track To discover in the surrounding area Labro, Cottanello, Monte Terminillo Nearby Colli sul Velino, Greccio, Cottanello, Rieti, Casperia, Montasola Environmental attractions Lakes Lungo and Ripasottile Nature Reserve Religious itineraries San Pastore Cistercian Abbey Sports Horseback riding, excursions, cycling, trekking, mountain biking Events Cream Puff Festival, spring Pizzicotto Festival, August Feast of San Michele Arcangelo, September Sucia pizza Festival, December

ou can still see the remains of the Roman settlement formed when Quintilian, orator and friend of Vespasian, retired to the ager Quintilinus, near the San Lorenzo church. The first mention of Castrum Quintilianum dates back to 1157 and today we can still admire the well preserved Medieval walls, urban layout with the two city gates, Santi and Codarda, houses and lanes and the stairways and arches that lead to the summit of the hill, dominated by the 17th century Collegiate Church of San Michele with frescoed chapels. The 1255 Cistercian Abbey of San Pastore outside the town, which has undergone major restoration and known different uses, retains its monastic charm. >> Not to be missed The Collegiate Church of San Michele Arcangelo, the ruins of the Church of San Giovanni and the older remains of the Church of San Lorenzo in open countryside.

COTTANELLO D

uring Roman days Cottanello, which is surrounded by beautiful scenery, was part of the ager the centre of which was Novum Forum. It was divided into agricultural land with simple houses and important villas which were brought to the light in the 1970s. The earliest records date back to 1027, but during the rule of the Orsini nobility in the 13th century it took on the appearance of a town with three surrounding walls. The Porta del Regno gate, rebuilt in 1572, still welcomes those who enter into the stronghold. > Not to be missed The famous red marble quarry and the Hermitage of San Cataldo which is carved into the rock face and has 9th and 10th century frescoes which are some of the oldest in Sabina. Tradition has it that St. Francis once stayed here.

Altitude 551 m asl Inhabitants 563

47

Patron Saint Sant’Andrea Apostolo, November 30th San Cataldo, May 10th Tourist Information Via Umberto I, 5 Tel. 0746 66122 Distance from Rome 81 kms Excursions Rocchette and Rocchettine, Le Prata of Cottanello To discover in the surrounding area Santa Maria in Vescovio a Torri in Sabina, Farfa Abbey Nearby Stroncone, Greccio, Contigliano, Montasola, Vacone, Configni

>> Curiosity In August the townspeople commemorate the Assault on the Castle, evoking the conquest of the castle of Contigliano which took place in 1501. This lively festival lasts several days and includes changing today’s money into ducats, lighted candles, great wines and music. The highlight is the Palio dell’Ariete with the town’s six districts simulating the attack on the Porta dei Santi gate using a long heavy hammer.

>> Curiosity Bernini used the beautiful red marble from the quarries of Mount Lacerone, called Pietra Persichina for the 44 columns of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way, San Cataldo Hermitage

>> On the table The typical pizzicottu PAT dumpling is made from bread dough and served with a spicy sauce. The fregnacce all’arrabbiata, cheese and truffles are also typical as is the sucia PAT pizza, a local Christmas sweet. Black pigs are raised in the Monti Sabini mountains and exclusive products are the cured meats, the San Filippo PAT butter, which is still produced using wooden churns, and the corno di toro PAT tomato.

>> On the table The area is famous for its stringozzi in spicy sauce but also for its lamb, pork from the Cottanello mountains and the pizza that can be either sweet or salty, for which there is a festival every July. During the festivities for the Vicoli dell’Arte e dei Sapori, the delicate Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil takes centre stage.

Events Feast of San Cataldo, May Festival of Fried Pizza, July Feast of Sant ‘Andrea Apostolo, November

www.comune.contigliano.ri.it

www.comunecottanello.it

Environmental attractions Monti Sabini

Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking

FRASSO SABINO T

48

Altitude 412 m asl

Inhabitants 743

Patron Saint San Pietro in Vincoli, August 23th Tourist Information Via XX Settembre, 11 Tel. 0765 872004 Distance from Rome 57 kms Excursions Capore Nature Trail To discover in the surrounding area Monte Terminillo, Farfa Abbey

he town’s origins date back to between the late 10th century and early 11th century. After being donated to the Abbey of Farfa the town became property of the Brancaleoni family and later the Sforza Cesarinis, which led to the construction of the castle dominating the town. The historic centre has a main street with several buildings leading up to the Fortress, and on the other side is the Belvedere Square, overlooking the Valley of Farfa. Of particular interest is the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli built in the 13th century which has 15th century frescoes depicting The Annunciation, The Flight to Egypt and Dispute between Doctors. The Roman tomb called the Grotta dei Massicci is very beautiful and in 1916 was declared a monument of national interest.

>> Not to be missed The Romanesque Church of San Pietro in Vincoli and, close by, an old renovated 18th century mill used as an astronomical observatory with an astronomy museum called La Città delle Stelle and a planetarium.

Nearby Poggio Nativo, Casaprota, Monteleone Sabino, Poggio San Lorenzo Environmental attractions Farfa Valley Sports Cycling, excursions, trekking Events Feast of San Pietro in Vincoli, Dal Riciclo alla Creatività Fair, August Frasso in Ottobre, October

>> Curiosity The Grotta dei Massacci grotto, in an 18th century farmhouse in the Osteria Nuova area, is a large funerary monument which was built by stacking huge limestone blocks without the use of mortar or other bonding agents and is attributed to the ancient Bruttii Praesentes family.

GRECCIO T

49

his Medieval town preserves part of the paving of the old castle and three of the six towers, the largest of which was transformed into a bell tower in the 17th century. Surrounded by beautiful oak woods the town has wonderful views. The parish church of San Michele Arcangelo, next to the tower, was once part of the castle, and has valuable 15th and 16th century works of art. Greccio is synonymous with St. Francis and it was here that the saint of Assisi retired to pray in a hut, protected by two hornbeam trees. And here in 1792 by popular request they built La Cappelletta, a chapel dedicated to the saint. It is 1,205 meters high with beautiful panoramic views over the Holy Valley of Rieti, and on a clear day you can even see the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Altitude 388 m asl

>> Not to be missed The 15th century Church of Santa Maria del Giglio and the Sanctuary of Greccio built in 1288 to commemorate St. Francis, and known throughout the world as the Franciscan Bethlehem. For nature lovers there are the springs known as the Fonte Lupetto.

Excursions Monte Lacerone trails

>> Curiosity At Christmas each year they celebrate the Nativity created by Francis and the people of Greccio in 1223.

Nearby Stroncone, Rieti, Contigliano, Cottanello

>> On the table Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil is one of the typical local products as are cheese and bacon. The most popular local dishes include the fregnacce sabinese, soups with cereals, devilled chicken and lamb stew. The spelt with truffles, strengozzi alla reatina and the cherry tarts are also excellent.

>> On the table Fettuccine with truffles, cannelloni alla francescana, gnocchi with mutton sauce, wild boar in red wine, bacon rolls with plums and orzotto alle quattro stagioni, river prawns, fillet of trout with herbs or truffles. Desserts include the pasticciata alle noci, mostaccioli, gingerbread and homemade chocolate.

www.comune.frassosabino.ri.it

www.comune.greccio.ri.it

Inhabitants 1,558

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September 29th

Tourist Information Via Limiti Nord, 17 Tel. 0746 750591 Distance from Rome 96 kms

To discover in the surrounding area Church of Santa Vittoria in Monteleone, Monte Terminillo, Salto Valley

Environmental attractions Monte Lacerone Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way, Sanctuary of Greccio Sports Cycling, fishing, trekking Events I Giorni del Velita Medieval Festivities, July Feast of San Michele Arcangelo, September Festival dei Primi alla francescana, December Camper sites

MOMPEO

50

Altitude 457 m asl Inhabitants 530

Patron Saint Sant’Egidio, September 1st Tourist Information Viale Regillo, 21 Tel. 0765 469028 Distance from Rome 60 kms Excursions The Farfa Gorges Natural Monument To discover in the surrounding area Farfa Abbey

Nearby Monte San Giovanni in Sabina, Salisano, Montenero Sabino, Poggio Mirteto, Montopoli di Sabina, Castelnuovo di Farfa Environmental attractions The Farfa Gorges Natural Monument Religious itineraries Farfa Abbey Sports Trekking, cycling, excursions Events Feast of Sant’Egidio Abate and San Vincenzo Ferreri, August / September

T

he town probably owes its name to the Roman general Gneo Pompey who built his Roman villa here, as testified by the numerous archaeological sites, tombs, remains of villas and a Roman bridge over the Farfa. The Baronial Palace and the Feudo were built in the Middle Ages as was the Parish Church of the Natività di Maria Santissima restored in 1559 by the Orsini family who also build a chapel dedicated to the Holy Cross for the family tombs. The Cippo Miliare, built in local stone, and erected by the Emperor Augustus in 13-16 B.C. is of particular interest. >> Not to be missed The majestic Orsini-Naro Palazzo Baronale, the Church of the Natività di Maria Santissima and the Roman-era archaeological sites. >> Curiosity The Farfa Gorges Natural Monument is protected by the Lazio Region and there is a network of naturalistic and archaeological trails starting from the village of Castelnuovo di Farfa. >> On the table Among the typical local dishes we find macaroni a fezze with garlic, sagne with olives and mushrooms and fried pizzas, made with yeast dough fried in olive oil which has a particularly tasty golden crust and fragrance, and there are also variations with sugar, salt, and also with jam. Try the bruschetta with the local extra virgin olive oil and the soup of dried beans and chickpeas.

CITY OF OIL www.comune.mompeo.ri.it

MONTELEONE SABINO T here is a Medieval atmosphere in Monteleone Sabino, a town with numerous buildings dating back to the 11th century as well as walls, towers and the Porta Pica gate which is incorporated into the Palazzo Lancellotti. Built on the ruins of Trebula Mutuesca this was one of the most important Sabine cities, then a flourishing Roman town, it was owned by various families, then passing, to the Apostolic Chamber at the beginning of the 17th century. The characteristic alleys, streets and buildings are decorated with Roman finds from the excavations in Trebula. The most important area of Monteleone, which is reached by a short walk, is the Church of Santa Vittoria, a Romanesque gem which has been preserved intact thanks to its position in the green countryside. The Roman amphitheater near the church has been completely excavated.

Altitude 496 m asl Inhabitants 1,224

51

Patron Saint Santa Vittoria, the second Sunday of May Tourist Information Via Lucio Mummio, 11 Tel. 0765 884014 Distance from Rome 62 kms Excursions Lake Turano and the Monti Lucretili Natural Park To discover in the surrounding area Orvinio Baronial Castle and Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Scandriglia , Trebula Mutuesca archaeological area

>> Not to be missed The Church of San Giovanni Evangelista and the 17th century painting attributed to Vincenzo Manenti, as well as the Trebula Mutuesca Civic Archaeological Museum with numerous Roman archaeological remains found on the archaeological site. >> Curiosity The town is linked to the legend of Santa Victoria, who used the power of faith to expel a horrible dragon that had invaded the surrounding area. > On the table A festival of bruschetta celebrates the excellent bread with Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil.

The fettuccine alla trebulana with bacon and mushrooms are a typical local dish as are the montuni fritters cooked in the pan, and the aniseed donuts. www.comune.monteleonesabino.ri.it

Nearby Rocca Sinibalda, Poggio Moiano, Frasso Sabino, Torricella in Sabina, Poggio San Lorenzo Environmental attractions Monti Sabini Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking Religious itineraries Church of Santa Vittoria Events Feast of Santa Vittoria, May Festival of Fettuccine Trebulana, August Bruschetta Festival, November

MONTELIBRETTI A

52

Altitude 232 m asl

Inhabitants 5,323

Patron Saint San Nicola di Bari e Beata Vergine del Carmine, May 10th and the second Saturday of October Tourist Information Piazza della Repubblica, 1 Tel. 0774 60681 Distance from Rome 46 kms Excursions Trails in the Monti Lucretili To discover in the surrounding area Protected areas of Sabina, Lake Salto Nearby Montopoli di Sabina, Palombara Sabina, Montorio Romano, Nerola, Fara in Sabina, Capena, Fiano Romano, Monterotondo Environmental attractions Monti Lucretili Regional Park Sports Excursions, trekking Events Feast of Sant’Antonio Abate, January Feast of San Nicola di Bari, May Feast of the Beata Vergine del Carmine, October

ll the characteristics typical of Roman Sabina are to be found in this beautiful town: the extra virgin olive oil, the incontaminated surrounds, the abundant flora and fauna, an important breeding farm for Lipizzaner horses and the presence of sulphurous and ferruginous springs. The historic center includes the majestic 17th century Palazzo Barberini built over the Orsini castle, and the Parish Church of San Nicola di Bari built in 1535 and renovated in 1773, which houses the paintings of Madonna and Child Enthroned and Santi Domenico e Caterina painted in the 1600s. The remains of an Etruscan necropolis were found in Colle del Forno and are now in the National Museum in Copenhagen. The site was identified as belonging to the ancient city of Eretum and tombs, discovered in 1970, are of the underground chamber type with an access corridor. >> Not to be missed In the old town centre the Church of the Madonna del Carmelo, the Church of the Madonnella, the Town Hall and the Palace of the Scuola, formerly the town hall. >> Curiosity Montelibretti has made its territory available to the Multipurpose Center of Experimentation, the CNR, the CONI and the Italian Army. >> On the table Excellent cherries, peaches, apricots and plums but also cacchiarelle and Montelibretti’s casareccio PAT bread which is usually cooked in sequence to verify the optimal temperature of the oven. On the local menus we find fettuccine with offal sauce, egg macaroni with asparagus tips, cicerchiole chickpeas, fettuccine aju, oju persia e pummidoro, noodles in broth with beans. Also worth tasting are the pizzafritte, the sausages and liver sausages, and the panontella roast bacon.

MONTENERO SABINO M ontenero is a tiny fairy-tale Medieval town stretched out on a hilly spur with a single main street between the Church at the top and the Castle below. This town is a rare example of the two ancient powers - spiritual and temporal - which confronted and kept an eye one on the other, and not only metaphorically speaking. It is in a spectacular position, like a boat floating on green mountains and it has a perfect herringbone layout. Montenero, which is 300 meters long and 40 wide, is a sparsely populated area and so remote and distant and lost in woodlands that it is worth a visit because it is not often you find yourself in such a masterpiece. The Church of San Cataldo Vescovo, renovated in 1735, has stucco work and Baroque frescoes and a wooden statue of the Madonna dating back to the 1800s, to which the inhabitants of Montenero gave the name of Our Lady of Maternity for the sweet expression on her face.

Altitude 450 m asl Inhabitants 299

53

Patron Saint San Cataldo, August 15th Tourist Information Piazza del Municipio, 2 Tel. 0765 324012 Distance from Rome 68 kms Excursions Trails in the Monti Sabini To discover in the surrounding area Salto Valley, Cottorella thermal baths Nearby Monte San Giovanni in Sabina, Torricella in Sabina, Casaprota, Mompeo

>> Not to be missed Visit the Church of San Cataldo and the Medieval Castle from which they made the Baronial Palace and from which there are spectacular views. >> Curiosity The name Montenero Sabino seems to derive from the dense vegetation, characterized by a dark green foliage that covers the entire surrounding area, or it could be for the particular flint stone found in the numerous local quarries.

CITY OF THE CHERRY

>> On the table Among the first courses we find fettuccine with porcini mushrooms, fregnacce alla sabinese, macaroni a fezze with pesto or meat sauce, while among the main courses there are grilled lamb cutlets, wild boar and venison, and do not miss the delicious aniseed donuts.

www.comune.montelibretti.roma.it

www.comune.montenerosabino.ri.it

Environmental attractions Montepiano Reatino, Monti Sabini Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking Events Feast of Sant’Antonio Abate, January Flower Festival of Corpus Domini, June Feast of San Cataldo Vescovo, August Camper sites

MORRO REATINO A

54

Altitude 745 m asl

Inhabitants 373

Patron Saint San Lorenzo, August 10th Tourist Information Via Roma, 19 Tel. 0746 638031

Distance from Rome 109 kms Excursions Trails in the Montepiano Reatino, Fuscello Valley To discover in the surrounding area Labro, Leonessa Nearby Colli sul Velino, Rivodutri, Poggio Bustone Environmental attractions Montepiano Reatino Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way, Benedetto’s Way Sports Trekking, cycling Events Pizzola Festival, Feast of San Lorenzo, Feast of the Madonna del Rosario, Torricella Fair, August

rocky outcropping forms the foundations of this town at the beginning of the Fuscello Valley. Today the Medieval center, dating back to the 12th century, preserves the castle gate and the remains of the walls and towers. Its existence is testified to by Roman settlements, and the town unfolds in concentric circles around the castle. The walls have Guelf embattlements and circular and quadrangular fortified towers that recall Morro’s defensive character. The parish church, dedicated to the patron saint San Lorenzo, with the funerary urn which was re-used as a baptismal font, is of particular interest. The townspeople organize hiking trails to the historical Hermitage of San Michele Arcangelo in Lignano Coste which is set among chestnuts, oaks and turkey oaks. >> Not to be missed The Medieval town with its Castle, the 15th century Church of Santa Maria dedicated to the Madonna di Mozzapiedi and the Church of San Lorenzo with the Madonna with Child raised into the air by angels. In the past it also had a beautiful 15th century gilded silver cross which is now in Rieti. >> Curiosity The numerous invasions by bands of brigands gave rise to the Mozzapiedi Madonna legend which told that the local people would be saved from an attack by a miraculous apparition of the Virgin who would cause the mutilation of the robbers’ feet after which they would bleed to death.

NEROLA T

he town’s houses are perched on a high outcropping of the Lucretili mountains around the Castello Orsini and the walls are still visible. According to some scholars Nerola took the place of Regillus, a famous town as it was the birthplace of Atta Clausus, founder of the Claudia gens.

The people of Regillo worshipped Nereine, the goddess of strength to whom they also dedicated a shrine. And Nerola got its name from this goddess. In 1885, a graceful fountain was erected in Piazza del Municipio, and the ancient Hospice for Pilgrims, today the Hospital of Sant’Antonio, is another important monument. The Castle, overlooking the town from the top of the hill, is a 12th century fortress which was transformed into a noble residence in the 1400s by the Orsini family.

Inside there are beautiful frescoes.

Altitude 453 m asl Inhabitants 1,926

55

Patron Saint San Giorgio Martire, April 23rd Tourist Information Corso Umberto I Tel. 0774 683003 Distance from Rome 50 kms Excursions Monte degli Elci

>> Not to be missed The Church dedicated to San Giorgio Martire and the Church of San Sebastiano with the statue of the saint, the 16th century wooden crucifix and the ancient baptismal font with the coat of arms of the Orsini family. >> Curiosity An ancient legend tells that the name of Nerola comes from Nero, and the community adopted as its emblem the emperor’s head surrounded by the inscription Comunitas Nerulae on a silver seal.

>> On the table The area has abundant mushrooms and truffles, chestnuts and walnuts. In August it celebrates the Pizzola Festival of fried bread dough sprinkled with salt or sugar. Other local specialties are the pasta alla garibaldina, polenta with chestnut sauce and roveia. Among the main dishes we find wild boar with wild berries and lamb both braised and with olives.

>> On the table Among the typical products we find the Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil, while local dishes include beans and cicerchiole, straccione and cellei, a pasta typical of Nerola, fried pizzas seasoned with salt or sugar or accompanied by cured ham. There are also the excellent Sabina PAT Ravenna cherries and the Sabina PAT and Colli della Sabina DOC wines.

www.comune.morroreatino.ri.it

www.comunenerola.it

To discover in the surrounding area Tiber Valley Nearby Montelibretti, Scandriglia, Montorio Romano, Toffia, Poggio Nativo, Fara in Sabina Environmental attractions Monti Sabini, Monte degli Elci Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way Sports Trekking, cycling Events Feast of San Giorgio Martire, April Polenta Festival, November.

PETRELLA SALTO T

56

Altitude 786 m asl

Inhabitants 1,271

Patron Saint San Rocco, August 16th

Tourist Information Via Giuseppe Maoli, 19 Tel. 0746 521021 Distance from Rome 115 kms Excursions Trails in the Salto Cicolano, Aquilente Plateau, Lake Petrella, Lake Rascino To discover in the surrounding area Val de Varri Grottos Nearby Concerviano, Fiamignano, Marcetelli, Pescorocchiano, Varco Sabino Environmental attractions Duchessa mountains and lake, Rascino Plateau Religious itineraries Santa Filippa Mareri Sanctuary and Grotto Sports Excursions, trekking, fishing and water sports Events Feast of Sant’Emidio, January Truffle Festival, July Feast of San Rocco, August

his charming town overlooks Lake Salto and is rich in history and art with many archaeological discoveries.

The old town is well preserved with winding streets, beautiful houses, 14th and 15th century portals and windows. It was built in the 11th century on a spur and therefore could be defended from invasions, and was typical of the encastellation fortified towns in the area. Filippa was born into the Mareri family, the feudal lords of Petrella. Her encounter with San Francesco strengthened her religious vocation and Santa Filippa founded the first monastery of the Poor Clares in the Kingdom of Naples, transforming the family castle and the Church of San Pietro. Over time devotion to the saint, to whom many miracles are attributed, spread widely.

>> Not to be missed The town and its elegant Medieval and Renaissance mansions, with portals, windows, cornices and carved lintels; the Rocca della Petrella fortress, the recently restored Church of Santa Maria with parts of frescoes and decorations of great interest; the Museum of Santa Filippa Mareri in Borgo San Pietro with the remains of the ancient monastery beneath the waters of the artificial lake, and the library with many 12th century scrolls and papal bulls.

POGGIO SAN LORENZO T he origins of the town and the community of Poggio San Lorenzo are very old and date back to Roman days with the walls and arches in opus reticulatum, Pontiche Romane. Tradition has it that the name of Poggio San Lorenzo was given the town by its inhabitants after the passage of Sant’Emidio (4th century) who preached the martyrdom of San Lorenzo.

The landscape is characterized by olive terraces, but there are other examples of rare natural beauty such as the Piano dell’Abatino Parco Faunistico wildlife park and, near the Baths of the Emperor Titus (in Valle Gemma), the wonderful ancient oak tree. In the town’s main street there is a beautiful oil mill with more than four centuries of history and today it is a museum that guides the visitor through the history of olive growing from ancient Rome to the present day. >> Not to be missed The 14th century Parish Church of San Lorenzo, the Roman tomb on which we can read Caius Rufus. Inside you can admire two valuable paintings: The Martyrdom of San Lorenzo and a Virgin and Child with St. Joseph, dating back to the late 16th century.

>> Curiosity In 1598 Rocca di Petrella was witness to one of the most famous 16th century crimes, the murder of Francesco Cenci, organized by his daugher Beatrice.

>> Curiosity Since 1980 the Parco Faunistico Piano dell’Abatino has been providing shelter and care for native and exotic wild animals and also animals which are victims of illegal trade and injuries.

>> On the table On the shores of Lake Salto you can enjoy dishes made with truffles and porcini mushrooms. There is also excellent grilled lamb, veal steaks or pork chops, fresh water fish like the eel on the spit or truffled trout. Among the many PAT products we find the excellent Cicolano red chestnuts, pears stewed in must, chestnut gnocchi, potato and chestnut cream ravioli, cicerchia e i tersitti de ‘girgenti, which get their name from a town founded by the people of Agrigento.

>> On the table Among the signature dishes are the fish for which there is an annual festival, spaghetti with seafood, risotto and fish fries. Other typical dishes include cauliflower fritters, spearmint and apples.

The zucchini flowers with anchovies are excellent as are the fried pizzas, gnocchi with wild boar sauce, fettuccine with porcini mushrooms and ravioli with truffles. Do not forget the extra virgin olive oil produced by the various mills in the area.

www.comune.petrellasalto.ri.it

www.comune.poggiosanlorenzo.ri.it

Camper sites

Altitude 494 m asl Inhabitants 589

57

Patron Saint San Lorenzo, August 10th Tourist Information Via Quinzia, 89 Tel. 0765 880312 Distance from Rome 61 kms

Excursions Piano dell’Abatino Wildlife Park To discover in the surrounding area Romanesque Church of Santa Vittoria in Monteleone and the archaeological area Nearby Torricella in Sabina, Casaprota, Frasso Sabino, Monteleone Sabino Environmental attractions Monti Sabini Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking Events Fritter Festival, March Fish Festival, June / July Feast of San Lorenzo, August

POSTA

58

Altitude 721 m asl Inhabitants 694

Patron Saint San Felice, June 16th Tourist Information Piazza degli Eroi, 18 Tel. 0746 951313

Distance from Rome 115 kms Excursions Monte Cambio, Valle Scura, Monte Elefante, Velino Gorges To discover in the surrounding area Valle Scura, Monte Terminillo, Lake Scandarello, Selvarotonda Nearby Cittareale, Leonessa, Borbona, Micigliano, Montereale Environmental attractions Monte Velino Religious itineraries Convent of San Francesco Sports Cicling, trekking Events Feast of Santa Lucia, December Feast of San Felice, June Feast of Sant’Antonio Abate, January Feast of Santa Maria della Neve, August

T

he ancient structure of the town grew around the existing Franciscan monastery on a hill opposite Monte Machilone, where there are still remnants of the ancient castle. A new town was then built along the Salaria where the Church of San Felice already existed and was a resting place for pilgrims who came to Rome for the first Jubilee in history, proclaimed by Boniface VIII in 1300. In 1331, by decree of King Robert, Posta was allowed to use the attribute Positae Realis, which sanctioned its membership in the royal domaine, making it responsible, as had been the lords of Machilone, for collecting tolls and taxes. Posta’s oldest church is the Santa Rufina built on the ruins of a temple to the goddess Vacunea in the 12th century. The wonderful Gorges of Velino have Roman remains such as the Masso dell’Orso boulder and the Miglio, a Roman milestone that marked the 69th mile from Rome, which was half way the distance from Rome to the Adriatic Sea.

RIVODUTRI R

ivodutri, nestled in the Laghi Lungo e Ripasottile Reserve, has origins dating back to the 11th century.

Later it was marked by the struggles between the Guelfs and Ghibellines and the imposition of the government of the Papal States by Cardinal Giovanni Vitelleschi who destroyed part of the town in 1436. It took about a century to rebuild it and today we can admire the Church of San Michele Arcangelo and the Sanctuary of the Madonna della Valle, which dates back to the 18th century and has a rock painting of the Virgin. In the town center we find the Arco Alchemico arch, a portal with beautiful bas-reliefs sculpted in limestone with ornaments, symbols and alchemical, mythological and sacred inscriptions. In the Grotte di San Nicola grottos there are the remains of the Roman villa of Senator Quinto Assio which is now an archeological site.

>> Not to be missed The Church of San Felice, the Church of Sant’Antonio and the Convent of San Francesco, one of the richest and most flourishing Franciscan centers of the time.

Three bells ring on the belltower: the largest and oldest weighing 1,700 kgs and with a diameter of 120 cms.

>> Not to be missed The little streets of the town and a visit to the Santa Susanna spring, a natural monument since 1977. Then walk up to the Faggio di San Francesco beech tree. The little Church of San Francesco al Cepparo, on a plateau at 1,090 metres, recalls the Saint’s visit to the town.

>> Curiosity At the top of the town, next to the Convent of San Francesco, is the Porta delle Gabelle gate which gave access to the market where the tax collectors collected taxes on goods entering.

>> Curiosity The typical mask of Rivodutri is the Zanno, one of the earliest carnival masks in the Rieti area, with which they staged the Moresca, an ancient representation of the fight between good and evil.

>> On the table Mushrooms and truffles feature in the ravioli and pappardelle, and there are also tasty ricotta and chard ravioli, bean and wild chicory soup, and tagliatelle with nettle pesto and crispy pig’s jowl. Don’t miss the excellent local grilled meats, pork ribs with cabbage, and roast pork with apples and ginger. And anyone with a sweet tooth should not miss the biscuits with walnuts.

>> On the table Stringozzi al sugo di carne is the typical local dish along with the fried pizza accompanied by the local pecorino cheese. In February the town celebrates the festival of extra virgin olive oil, and in August it organizes the festival of organic trout and shrimp with a triumph of dishes based on fish such as carpa al sesamo. This is the area of the production of the Amatriciano IGP ham.

www.comunediposta.it

www.comune.rivodutri.ri.it

Altitude 560 m asl Inhabitants 1,253

59

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September 29th Tourist Information Piazza Municipio, 9 Tel. 0746 685612 Distance from Rome 96 kms Excursions Laghi Lungo e Ripasottile Nature Reserve

To discover in the surrounding area Castle Labro and Sanctuary of San Giacomo in Poggio Bustone Nearby Colli sul Velino, Leonessa, Morro Reatino Environmental attractions Santa Susanna springs Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way Sports Excursions, trekking, horseback riding Events Oil Festival, February I Sapori Scendono in Piazza Fair, July Festival of Organic Trout and River Prawns, August

ROCCA SINIBALDA R

60

Altitude 552 m asl

Inhabitants 815

Patron Saint Sant’Agapito e San Giustino, June 1st Tourist Information Piazza della Vittoria, 15 Tel. 0765 708001 Distance from Rome 75 kms Excursions Monte Navegna e Monte Cervia Nature Reserve, Turano Valley To discover in the surrounding area Marmore Waterfalls, Salto Valley, Cottorella Thermal Baths Nearby Concerviano, Ascrea, Longone Sabino, Castel di Tora, Colle di Tora, Poggio Moiano, Monteleone Sabino, Torricella in Sabina, Belmonte in Sabina Environmental attractions Monte Navegna and Monte Cervia Nature Reserve Sports Trekking, cycling Events Sant’Agapito and San Giustino Festival, June Festival of Lamb Kebabs, August

occa Sinibalda stands at 552 meters on the Sabine hills between green woods and the valley of the Turano river. Mentioned for the first time in a document in 1084 linked to the longobard Sinibaldo, the town later became part of the Imperial Abbey of Farfa possessions and then of various Roman families. In 1526 it was donated by the Pope to Cardinal Alessandro Cesarini,who around 1530 turned the castle, designed by Baldassarre Peruzzi, into a fortress. Austere outside and shaped like an eagle with two defensive towers, the projecting stronghold and sloping walls, inside it is an elegant Renaissance residence with apartments and salons.

>> Not to be missed The walk from the town to the castle of Rocca Sinibalda, the Agapito Miniucchi Museum with its collection of sculptures by the artist, and the Tradizioni Contadine ed Artigiane Museum with local crafts in the nearby hamlet of Posticciola.

>> Curiosity The castle had a 7-metre icehouse which ensured the inhabitants had snow and ice in the summer months, and has a small spa-pool in a stunning position that was used in the 60s by Peggy Guggenheim and by the Living Theater and there is also a small amphitheater at the end of the cellars, a small but beautiful scenic area.

ROCCANTICA T

his area was inhabited and cultivated for millennia: archaeological remains show that the area was used by the Romans to supply the capital. It is mentioned in 792 as a Fundus with the adjectve Antiquum for a donation of a portion of the Church of San Valentino destined for Farfa Abbey. If you walk through the old town you can see the tower, defensive structures and lookouts, and a square section with a triple ring of walls. The Eremo di San Leonardo Hermitage, with surrounding walls and the remains of an altar with traces of ancient frescoes, is a place of natural beauty. Around it you can see the remains of a water mill with the pipelines, and the stone of the grinding wheel. Every year from 12th to 15th August there is a significant historical re-enactment event in the town which commemorates the year 1059 when Pope Niccolò II, pursued by troops of the Crescenzi family, took refuge in Roccantica which was valiantly defended by the inhabitants of the village, although only twelve of them survived. It was then that the Pope, remembering the valour of the townspeople, gave them a feud with the papal bull of April 18th 1060.

Altitude 457 m asl Inhabitants 563

61

Patron Saint San Valentino, February 14th Tourist Information Via dei Nobili, 3 Tel. 0765 63020 Distance from Rome 70 kms Excursions Revotano, Fonteregna, Monte Pizzuto To discover in the surrounding area Sanctuary of Santa Maria in Vescovio and Farfa Abbey

>> Not to be missed The very interesting Gothic Churches of San Valentino with five chapels, the Church of San Giuseppe and the Church of Santa Caterina. >> Curiosity The Roccolana Philharmonic Union, consisting of 38 players, was established in 1882 and, in addition to music schools for young people, organizes concerts of classical and contemporary music in the area.

>> On the table Among the tyical dishes we find potato gnocchi with zucchini flowers, fettuccine with mushrooms, tasty lamb kebabs, bruschetta with truffles and local cheeses. The area produces some great white Trebbiano, and red and rosato Sangiovese wines.

>> On the table The frittello is one of the typical local products, along with maccheroni a matassa with wild boar sauce, the padellaccia PAT, a traditional peasant dish that uses the less noble parts of the pig, and artichokes. Among the desserts we find aniseed donuts and mostaccioli.

www.comune.roccasinibalda.ri.it

www.comunediroccantica.it

Nearby Casperia, Montasola, Cantalupo Sabino, Poggio Catino Environmental attractions Monti Sabini Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking Events St. Valentine’s Day, February Frittello Festival, March Medieval Festival, August Camper sites

SCANDRIGLIA C

62

Altitude 535 m asl

Inhabitants 3,180

Patron Saint Santa Barbara, December 4th Tourist Information Via Umberto I, 33 Tel. 0765 878037 Distance from Rome 55 kms

Excursions 53 trails over 230 kilometres in the Monti Lucretili (Monte Pellecchia, Monte Gennaro) To discover in the surrounding area Trebula Mutuesca Archaeological Area in Monteleone Sabino and the Grotto dei Massacci in Frasso Sabino Nearby Poggio Nativo, Poggio Moiano, Pozzaglia Sabina, Orvinio, Nerola Environmental attractions Monti Lucretili Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling Events Sagne Festival, Uomini e Cavalli Western Spirit Pro Rodeo, August.

Festa di Santa Barbara, December

onsidered “The flower of Italy” and the staunchest supporter of the Roman Republic, the town had patrician villas, and became the farming land of the wealthy senatorial Scandilli family from which it takes its name. The Medieval plan can be seen in the center and in the fortress and there are also the remains of ancient Roman villas, the Roman bridge and milestones in the archaeological excavations in Madonna dei Colori and in the imperial villa of Nerva. Currently Scandriglia occupies a large area of over six thousand hectares, made up largely of hills but also of forest-covered mountains. Not far from the town stands the Church of Santa Barbara where, according to tradition, St. Barbara was martyred by her father. The church has a wonderful Madonna delle Grazie in the apse. In the hamlet of Ponticelli you can admire the 13th century Church of Santa Maria del Colle, the interior of which is decorated with votive frescoes dating from the 13th to the 16th centuries. >> Not to be missed The interesting Madonna dei Colori archaeological area, the Palazzo degli Anguillari with frescoes by Antoniazzo Romano’s school, and the Church dell’Assunta on a Medieval layout with 18th century renovations and a bell tower built on a Roman watchtower. >> Curiosity The Monastery of San Salvatore Minore, built in the 11th century by the Marchese Uberto, is one of the most important monasteries in the Sabine region. Also of great artistic value is the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie, called The Pearl of Sabina, which is near the hamlet of Ponticelli.

TOFFIA P

erched on a rocky outcropping dominated by Monte degli Elci the town has houses, forests and well-preserved medieval walls. Toffia was known as Tophiae, and some finds from the 60s have shown that the area was already inhabited a thousand or two thousand years before Christ, and later in Roman times. Over the centuries two important families fought over the town dividing it into independent parts: the lower part belonging to the Orsini, who built Palazzo Orsini and the upper part to the Colonnas, where the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria Nova, which was built on a rocky spur, has frescoes and a painting by Carlo Maratta. Walking through the old centre you come to the Porta Maggiore castle gate, the Montecavallo district which has ancient palaces with rich travertine portals, the Fortress built on some Roman ruins and the Collitrone, the passegeway under the Castle which comes to an open area where you can enjoy the breathtaking view.

Altitude 262 m asl Inhabitants 1,058

63

Patron Saint San Lorenzo, August 10th Tourist Information Via Porta Maggiore, 9 Tel. 0765 326032 Distance from Rome 53 kms Excursions Farfa Valley To discover in the surrounding area Farfa Abbey, Massacci Grotto, Museum of Silence in Fara in Sabina

>> Not to be missed Among the historic buildings there are the Palazzo Orsini, Casa Oddoni, Palazzo Ruffetti, Palazzo Palma and Casa Orsini. Among the religious buildings we find the Church della Madonna di Loreto and the Church of San Lorenzo, with the remarkable bas-relief depicting the figure of a seated Roman emperor dating to the First Empire. >> Curiosity Near Toffia during agricultural work on the Cerreto level area in 1965 some fragments of red and black pottery as well as a rare and finely crafted bronze spearhead were unearthed.

>> On the table Sagne scandrigliesi are the town’s typical dish, together with sagne stracciate, cauliflower or apple fritters and frittellu. For dessert we recommend the ciambelle di magro donuts, the retagliati biscuits with hazelnuts and the murzillitti with honey and walnuts. The area also produces the Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil.

>> On the table Among the typical products we find extra virgin olive oil, pecorino cheese, olive paste, fettuccine alla molenara with tomato and marjoram and fried pizza. Among the desserts try the ciambelle al magro donuts.

www.comune.scandriglia.ri.it

www.comune.toffia.ri.it

Nearby Castelnuovo di Farfa, Nerola, Poggio Nativo, Fara in Sabina Environmental attractions Monti Lucretili Natural Regional Park, Monte degli Elci Religious itineraries Francesco’s Way Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling Events Feast of Sant’Antonio di Padua, June Feast of San Lorenzo, August Madonna della Speranza, September

PONZANO ROMANO FILACCIANO TORRITA TIBERINA S.ORESTE NAZZANO MAZZANO ROMANO FIANO CAMPAGNANO ROMANO DI ROMA CAPENA FORMELLO

Altitude 275 m asl

Inhabitants 1,256

Patron Saint San Giovanni Battista, June 24th Tourist Information Piazza Roma, 6 Tel. 0765 62004 Distance from Rome 64 kms Excursions To Tarano on foot or horseback through the Forum Novum excavations

To discover in the surrounding area Subterranean grottos of the Varri Valley Nearby Calvi dell’Umbria, Vacone, Montasola, Casperia, Cantalupo in Sabina, Selci, Tarano, Montebuono Environmental attractions Monti Sabini Sports Excursions, trekking Religious itineraries Sanctuary of Santa Maria in Vescovio Events Feast of San Giovanni Battista, June Rocchetta Festival, August / September

he origins of the town date back to 747 while the Castle was built in the second half of the 13th century. After being owned by the Holy See, in 1368 Pope Urban V gave it as a fief to the Orsini family who built a palace in which they often resided.

Santa Maria in Vescovio, not far from the town on a picturesque plateau, is a Medieval gem. While it is bare on the outside it has a beautiful bell tower with five rows of windows and inside is richly decorated with a cycle of 14th century frescoes, of the Cavallini circle, with stories of the Old and New Testament on the side walls and a Universal Judgment on the counterfacade. Another important church is the San Giovanni Battista which has a 6th century artifact re-used as a baptismal font, the Madonna del Rifugio, a beautiful work by Camuccini (19th century) and important paintings of the Umbrian school. The handsome twin fortified settlements of Rocchette and Rocchettine, the first inhabited and the second recently abandoned, date back to the Middle Ages. >> Not to be missed It is worth visiting the Forum Novum of the ancient Roman city, and the towns of Rocchette and Rocchettine, as well as the Churches of San Nicola di Bari, of the Madonna del Colle and Sant’Egidio. >> Curiosity Torri in Sabina is part of the ABD (distinctive busines area) Association of Municipalities of Sabina, which has many peculiar characteristics that guarantee its artistic and historical importance. >> On the table The fallon, a calzone stuffed with vegetables, is the town’s typical PAT product. The famous Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil is produced in the area and used to flavor the excellent local grilled meats and delicious first courses like the gnocchi with lamb sauce, pappardelle with mushrooms or wild boar and the bruschetta with local cheese. www.comune.torriinsabina.ri.it

ARSOLI

ROVIANO

TORRI IN SABINA T

64

LICENZA SARACINESCO CICILIANO POLI

ROCCA S.STEFANO

ROCCA CANTERANO JENNE ROIATE

VALLE DELL’ANIENE AND VALLE DEL TEVERE WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO TASTE

WHAT TO DO

>> Bracciano-Martignano Natural Park

>> Capena DOC white wine

>> Northern Via Francigena

>> Veio Archeological Area

>> Saracinesco PAT truffle

>> Campagnano, Mansio ad Vacanas Archaeological Site

>> Monti Lucretili Farro Pasta

>> Aniene Valley, Morra Cavorso Grotto

>> Nazzano Pappardelle with wild boar sauce

>> Licenza, Villa di Orazio

>> Rocca Canterano Cecamariti

>> Ciciliano, Trebula Suffenas Archeological Area

>> Marzella, Roviano asparagus, “Ju salavaticu” crunchy PAT fritters

>> Monti Lucretili Natural Park >> Mazzano Romano, Narce Archaeological Areas >> Ponzano Romano, Fosso dell’Acqua Forte Valley >> Monte Soratte Nature Reserve >> Treja Valley Park

>> Rocca Santo Stefano Gnoccacci >> Rosciola PAT extra virgin olive oil

>> Arsoli, Snail Festival (August) >> Filacciano, Fettuccine Festival (August) >> Jenne’s Jennesina walking race >> Benedetto’s Way >> Tivoli, Acque Albule thermal waters

ARSOLI

66

Altitude 470 m asl Inhabitants 1,586

Patron Saint San Bartolomeo Apostolo, August 24th Tourist Information Piazza Martiri Antifascisti, 1 Tel. 0774 920006 Distance from Rome 58 kms Excursions Walks to the Diavolo Trench and the Are To discover in the surrounding area Sanctuary of the Santissima Trinità di Vallepietra, Campo Staffi Nearby Riofreddo, Oricola, Roviano, Rocca di Botte, Cervara di Roma, Marano Equo Environmental attractions Monti Simbruini Natural Regional Park Sports Trekking, cycling Events Fame Festival, May Palio dell’Amico, June Beer Festival, July /August Cicciarchiole e Fagiolina Festival, August /September

A

rsoli, an open-air museum nestled in the green Simbruini Mountains close to the Abruzzo and Monti Lucretili National Parks, is a little gem. The area belonged to the Equi and then the Romans. Outside the town we can see the remains of a 2nd century B.C. villa and the stone that marked the 38th mile on the Via Valeria. This area is ideal for lovers of nature, hiking and scenery and it is also lovely to stroll through the atmospheric old Medieval town centre. The Castello Massimo, with three storeys overhanging the rock face, is the feather in Arsoli’s cap. There is much to discover inside like the rooms that were frescoed in the late 1500s by the Zuccari family and in the 1700s by the Benefials, a collection of weapons, the throne room, the Chapel of San Filippo Neri with part of the Cosmati facade, a handsome Italian hanging garden and a lush forest. The basement is also interesting with the ovens, the food and oil pantries and the prison. It also houses the Museum of Musical Traditions and documents from the Arsoli Musical Band which was known as early as the 1700s.

>> Not to be missed The 1680 Church of the Salvatore by Giacomo della Porta, the Church of San Lorenzo, the Palazzo San Bartolomeo and the adjacent Baroque church. >> Curiosity Luigi Pirandello, who spent a lot of time in Arsoli, called it “the little Paris” for its “urban plan and architectural preciousness.” In those days the town had a lively social life and, following the 1656 plague, factories, oil presses, textile and brick factories and a pharmacy down the years attracted the noble and bourgeois classes.

CAMPAGNANO DI ROMA T his beautiful town on the slopes of Monte Razzano, in the volcanic area of the Monti Sabatini mountain range, dates back to the 9th century. The old centre has many traces of the original Medieval nucleus, known as early as 1130, and of the 17th century enlargement: the Roman gate, the Medieval towers, the Collegiate church, the bell tower, the 1515 Church of San Giovanni which was built on a pre-existing paleo-Christian church, of which some decorative elements can still be admired. The Fontana dei Delfini, attributed to Vignola, and the Fontana Secca with the coats of arms of Campagnano and the Orsini family are also very beautiful. Leaving the center you come across the 11th century Church of the Pietà which has a fine 1518 fresco. In Baccano you can see the Roman Mansio ad Vacanas and the majestic remains of the Chigi granaries. The Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Sorbo, which is not far from the town, has a beautiful 1200 wooden Madonna with Child. >> Not to be missed The Medieval center, the 16th-century Church of the Gonfalone with its clock tower, the Fontana dei Delfini fountain, the Mansio ad Vacanas archaeological site and Palazzo Venturi which is the home of the Archaeological Museum. >> Curiosity On the last Sunday of the month the old centre hosts Italy’s most important handcraft and antiquarian market.

>> On the table Among the typical dishes we find ciciarchiole, sagne, fried pizzas, sagnozzi, cillitti co’ j’agliù and pullenta. The fasoli col le coteche bean stew and the broccoli o cicci soffocati are also excellent. Along the sweets we find tisichelle, ciammellette de magru and ciammelle della fratellanza. The Arsolana Cappellette di Vallepietra and Cioncone PAT beans are typical of Arsoli.

>> On the table Try the sausages, cheeses, ricotta and local wines. The carciofiata alla brace di vite is a must, and the pizza, rigatoni alla righetto, fettuccine alla Norcia and pappardelle al ragù di guanciale are all excellent. The month of September is dedicated to honey and the famous Campagnano IGP Romanesque artichoke which has only one artichoke for each plant.

www.comunediarsoli.rm.it

www.comunecampagnano.it

Altitude 270 m asl Inhabitants 11,571

67

Patron Saint San Giovanni Decollato and San Celestino, August 29th Tourist Information Piazza Cesare Leonelli, 15 Tel. 06 9015601 Distance from Rome 37 kms Excursions Veio Natural Regional Park and Bracciano Natural Regional Park

To discover in the surrounding area Veio Archaeological Area Treja Valley Park, Lake Martignano, Vallelunga motor racing track Nearby Sacrofano, Formello, Mazzano Romano, Anguillara Sabazia, Nepi Environmental attractions Bracciano-Martignano Natural Park, Veio Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, walking, motoring and motorcycling Events Baccanale Festival, April Castello ’85 Festival, May Feast of San Giovani Decollato and San Celestino, August

CAPENA

68

Altitude 160 m asl Inhabitants 10,592

Patron Saint San Luca Evangelista, October 18th Tourist Information Piazza San Luca, 1 Tel. 06 9037601 Distance from Rome 35 kms Excursions Lake Puzzo’s hot and ferruginous waters To discover in the surrounding area Lucus Feroniae, Farfa Abbey Nearby Monterotondo, Morlupo, Castelnuovo di Porto, Civitella San Paolo, Fiano Romano, Rignano Flaminio

Environmental attractions Nazzano Tevere-Farfa Nature Reserve Religious itineraries Monte Soratte hermitages Sports Cycling, trekking Events Grape Festival, Feast of San Luca, October

C

apena, in the Tiber Valley, overlooks the Via Tiberina with its many vineyards and olive groves, and has beautiful views over Lower Sabina beyond the Tiber. In the “old” town we find old Roman roads, little squares, wooden arches and passageways and the city gate which is in the walls. Ancient Capena, dating back to the 11th century B.C. was not far away on the Civitucola, or Castellaccio hill. It had walls, gates, buildings, hydraulic systems and a road connecting the Via Flaminia and the Via Tiberina passing through the Santuary of Lucus Feroniae which is now an interesting archaeological site with an Antiquarium and the Villa dei Volusii. Today’s Capena has the Rocca fortress, the Church of San Michele Arcangelo with frescoes and an elegant 1477 portal, the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate, and the Capena Civic Museum of Capena - Clock Tower, dedicated to medieval archaeology.

>> Not to be missed The Church of San Leone, immersed in the silence of the old cemetery, among age-old cypresses is a Medieval gem. It has only two aisles, an intact iconostasis and frescoes, the oldest dating back to the 9th century. The Medieval Palazzo dei Monaci, which was refurbished in the Renaissance and which, among other things, has a graded ramp dug into the rock, is also interesting.

CICILIANO T

he origins of this town date back to the Middle Ages, but already in the Paleolithic Age the area was inhabited by small hunting tribes, then by the Suffenates and then by the Romans. Since the 2nd century B. C. Ciciliano has been a little ancient gem, perched on the mountainside and sometimes hidden in the fog, with alleyways, stairs, squares, stone houses and portals leading to the Castello Theodoli at the highest part of the town. This is a majestic Medieval building, repeatedly upgraded to what we can see today by the Theodolis, and with two unusual different towers, two splendid hanging gardens, the patrol round and the interior chapel.

Among the most interesting buildings we find The Church of Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo, dating back to the 16th century, which overlooks Piazza Maestro and the beautiful Church of Santa Liberata which, in the apse, has a beautiful cycle of frescoes by the Antoniazzo Romano school.

>> Not to be missed The Church of the Madonna della Palla, the Church of Santa Liberata and the majestic Castello Theodoli.

Of great interest are the archaeological area of Trebula Suffenas, the Ponte della Fortuna bridge, the city of the Suffenates which belonged to the people of Equi and then the Roman town hall, with spas and villas with precious mosaics that are now kept in the Villa d’Este in Tivoli.

>> Curiosity In his Epistulae ad Familiares Cicero wrote: “If you want fertile fields and vineyards head to Capena,” words that still describe the unchanged beauty of the Roman countryside around this town.

>> Curiosity Girolamo Theodoli, of the Counts of Ciciliano, inherited the governorship of the town from his father, and as an architect he designed the Church of the Madonna della Palla.

>> On the table As well as the typically Roman dishes like bucatini all’amatriciana, fried mozzarella and tripe, try the homemade pasta stuffed with meat, the spelt polenta with truffles and the pork chops. Among the typical pastries we find pangiallo and the Capena serpentone.

The Capena DOC white wine is excellent.

>> On the table The town’s typical dishes are sagne con sugo finto seasoned with lamb gravy. Among the specialties we find honey, truffles, gnocchi ‘ncati con sugo di sedano, polenta con sugo di lumache and pontega which is like polenta.

www.comune.capena.rm.it

www.comune.ciciliano.rm.it

Camper sites

Altitude 619 m asl Inhabitants 1,336

69

Patron Saint Santa Liberata, August 18th Tourist Information Via Roma, 49 Tel. 0774 790006 Distance from Rome 46 kms Excursions Monte Spina Santa To discover in the surrounding area Convent of San Cosimato

Nearby Sambuci, Castel Madama, Pisoniano, Cerreto Laziale, Capranica Prenestina, San Gregorio da Sassola Environmental attractions Monti Ruffi, Tiburtini and Prenestini Religious itineraries Pilgrims’ Trail: CicilianoMentorella-Guadagnolo Sports Cycling, trekking Events Inchinata Festival, Panarda Festival, Feast of Santa Liberata, August Sagne Festival, September

FIANO ROMANO T

70

Altitude 97 m asl

Inhabitants 15,360

Patron Saint Santo Stefano, August 3rd Tourist Information Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 2 Tel. 0765 4071 Distance from Rome 32 kms To discover in the surrounding area Archaeological remains of the Roman Lucus Feroniae

his town in the Tevere Valley on the banks of the river Tiber, stretches over an area of more than forty square kilometers. The area, as all of northern and central Italy, saw the establishment of the Etruscan civilization between the 8th and 6th centuries B.C. The castle of the Orsini dukes, in the old centre, has an imposing 30-metre crenellated tower. The Church of Santo Stefano Nuovo, on a basilica plan with three aisles surmounted by arches resting on travertine pillars, is also interesting. The Church of Santo Stefano Vecchio, just outside the city and now a private property, has bronze candlebras on each side of the entrance portal and the Greek marble altar in the apse is now in place of the old ciborium.

>> Not to be missed The Church of Santo Stefano Nuovo with a beautiful Madonna and Saints by Antonio del Massaro, who was known as Il Pastura. The Church of Santa Maria ad Pontem and the Church of the Madonna del Carmine are also interesting. >> Curiosity Fiano Romano originated after a possible destruction of Capena by the Romans which led the inhabitants to seek shelter on the nearby hills where small settlements sprang up then growing into the town.

Nearby Montelibretti, Capena, Civitella San Paolo, Montopoli di Sabina, Nazzano Environmental attractions Nazzano Tevere-Farfa Nature Reserve, Monte Soratte Sports Cycling, excursions Events Feast of the Hunter, June Feast of Santo Stefano, August

FILACCIANO T

he Medieval town of Filacciano has many traces of its Roman origins. The name appears to derive from Faliscanum or Faliscianum, the Falisci population that settled in the area. Set on a hill overlooking the Tiber Valley it was part of a signalling system with Farfa Abbey and also protected men and animals coming from the Sabina region across the river. Built along a single roadway, the Via Filocastello, from the gate below Palazzo del Dago to that towards the Tiber it has remained unchanged and still has all the charm of yesteryear. In the 17th century the town stretched westwards, even then along a single axis, and the Palazzo with its graded ramp became the link between the new and the old. >> Not to be missed A stroll along the Via Filocastello, from the majestic Palazzo Del Drago to the Church of Sant’Egidio, with the delightful panorama of the Tiber Valley and the Sabina region which are very close by. This little church has painted walls and the apse has a beautiful cycle of well preserved 13th century frescoes with the Madonna on the Throne, Saints and a Blessing Christ. The Palazzo del Drago castle is also the entrance to the town and has an ancient tower. >> Curiosity The nude male and female figures, some parts of which have been restored, on the tower of the Palazzo del Drago dominate the landscape. They are known as “i matti,” the mad ones, and it is said that the punishment for anyone who walks past them is madness.

>> On the table Among the specialties we find all the typical Roman dishes such as pasta alla carbonara and amatriciana, in addition to local meats and products such as the Sirole PAT extra virgin olive oil, cherries, plums, marzolino cheese and buffalo mozzarella.

Try the gnocchi with gorgonzola and walnuts, and the tagliatelle with truffles, and don’t miss the visciole cherry tarts.

>> On the table In addition to the typical Roman gnocchi al sugo, the fettuccine made using a rolling pin, the beans with pecorino, sausages and broccoli, the typical acquacotta from Viterbo is also excellent as is the local extra virgin olive oil.

www.comune.fianoromano.rm.it

www.comune.filacciano.rm.it

Camper sites

Altitude 197 m asl Inhabitants 477

71

Patron Saint Sant’Egidio, September 1st Tourist Information Via Oreste Leonardi, 5 Tel. 0765 332113

Distance from Rome 50 kms Excursions Monte Cimino, Nazzano Tevere-Farfa Nature Reserve To discover in the surrounding area Farfa Abbey Nearby Forano, Poggio Mirteto, Torrita Tiberina, Nazzano, Ponzano Romano Environmental attractions Tiber Valley, Monte Cimino Sports Trekking, excursions, cycling Events Broad Bean and Pecorino Festival, May Fettuccine Festival, August Feast of Sant’Egidio, September

FORMELLO F

72

Altitude 225 m asl

Inhabitants 12,918

Patron Saint San Lorenzo, August 10th Tourist Information Piazza San Lorenzo, 8 Tel. 06 901941 Distance from Rome 29 kms Excursions Caldara di Manziana, Pantane and Lagusiello wetlands, Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sorbo To discover in the surrounding area Lake Bracciano Nearby Campagnano di Roma, Sacrofano, Anguillara Sabazia, Trevignano, Bracciano Environmental attractions Bracciano Martignano Natural Regional Park, Sorbo Valley, Veio Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Trekking, cycling Events Feast of the Madonna del Sorbo, January Feast of San Lorenzo, August Antiques Fair, one Sunday every month

ormello is in the Veio Natural Regional Park, set among thick forests, wide ridges and tufa formations that are used for agricultural cultivation (vineyards, olive groves and cereal crops). Historians have shown that there were homes here in the prehistoric era that then became the Etruscan town of Veio, which stood in the present municipal area.

In the historical Medieval centre we find Palazzo Chigi, the residence of the Orsini family, and the 13th century Church of San Lorenzo which contains two valuable frescoes by the Formello painter Donato Palmieri. The coloured-marble main altar, originally destined for the Church of Sant’Apollinare in Rome, was built in 1744. Also worth mentioning is the Villa Chigi-Versaglia which has a three-storey tower called the Torre Colombaia. In the area there are many hollows dug into the tufa rock including a huge tank with arch vaults which is divided into two sections, and a circular stall fifty meters below ground level.

>> Not to be missed The Church of San Michele Arcangelo, the Agro Veientano Civic Archaeological Museum with artefacts from the municipal area, and the Sorbo Valley which has natural waterfalls. >> Curiosity The Center for Engraving and Art Graphics, inaugurated in 2003, on the tradition of the French artist Jean-Pierre Velly, carries on the activity of graphic arts and art printing with particular attention to original engravings.

JENNE T

his town, in one of the most pristine areas in Lazio, is on a mountain promontory and has beautiful walking, horseback or mountain biking trails for nature lovers. The first historical mention of Jenne is found in a parchment with which Pope Saint Leo IX gave Subiaco Abbey the Gushenna fundus with its mountains, hills, and countryside. In the upper part of the town we find the remains of the castle built by the abbot Giovanni V after 1060, and in this Medieval building we can see remains of the Chapel of Santa Maria in Arce with 13th century frescoes. Among the churches and historic buildings we find the ancient Parish Church of Jenne, dedicated to Sant’Andrea Apostolo, consisting of a single nave with five altars. Jenne is the headquarters of the Monti Simbruini Nature Park which has a large variety of flora and fauna. The Morra Cavorso grotto in the Aniene Valley is very beautiful and contains the remains of at least 23 Neolithic human burials as well as prehistoric archaeological artefacts. >> Not to be missed Two religious buildings in the historic center: the Church of the Madonna delle Grazie and the Church of San Michele Arcangelo which was restored in 2002. The Mola Vecchia and the Municipal Mill are also interesting. >> Curiosity According to some the name of the village derives from the Latin Janua, meaning entrance or gate while other sources maintain the origin is in the word Genna - a cold place - or even Gehenna meaning the gates of hell.

>> On the table Try the excellent extra virgin olive oil, local cheeses, sanguinaccio, padellaccia and tasty fried pork used to make sausages. Among the desserts we suggest the ricotta tart with alchermes and the tarts with the bitter-sweet porsarago, a type of local medlar fruit. This area produces DOC Roma and Tarquinia wines.

>> On the table Typical dishes include ndremmappi, n’frascati, ricotta ravioli, fettuccine with porcini mushrooms and polenta with pork ribs. The cheeses and goat’s ricotta are excellent as are the wild asparagus, grilled or stewed lamb, trout and the fallone pizza. Among the desserts we find the ciambelle al vino wine donuts, amaretti and the typical blackberry tart.

www.comune.formello.rm.it

www.comune.jenne.rm.it

Altitude 834 m asl Inhabitants 366

73

Patron Saint San Rocco, August 16th Tourist Information Via IV Novembre, 10 Tel. 0774 827601

Distance from Rome 83 kms Excursions Walking, bicycle and horseback trails in the Aniene Valley To discover in the surrounding area Inferniglio Grottos, Arcinazzo Highlands Nearby Subiaco, Vallepietra, Trevi nel Lazio Environmental attractions Monti Simbruini Natural Regional Park Sports Excursions, trekking, cycling, horseback riding, mountain biking Events The “Jennesina” walking race, July Feast of San Rocco, August Pantasema Dance Festival, September Camper sites

LICENZA

74

Altitude 475 m asl Inhabitants 1,011

Patron Saint San Rocco, August 16th Tourist Information Via Don Minzoni, 12 Tel. 0774 46031 Distance from Rome 57 kms Excursions Itineraries in the Monti Lucretili To discover in the surrounding area Sanctuary of the Mentorella Nearby Vicovaro, Orvinio, Percile, Mandela, Roccagiovine Environmental attractions Monti Lucretili Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Benedetto’s Way Sports Cycling, mountain biking, trekking, horseback riding Events Polenta Festival, February Maltagliati with Beans Festival, April Feast of St. Rocco, August Sagra “elle Sagne ‘e Farre“, October Camper sites

V

isitors are enchanted by this ancient town which is surrounded by woods and olive groves. It was here that the poet Quintus Horatius Flaccus retired to enjoy the tranquility and simplicity of “the water and the woods” in the famous villa which today is an archaeological area that can be visited in the Antiquarium of Licenza, where you can also admire most of the materials brought to light by the excavations that started in 1911. Numerous finds show that the area was inhabited as early as the Palaeolithic period, but it was in the Roman era that stable agricultural settlements developed.

Starting in the 6th century, following the Barbarian invasions, fortified castles and forts were built on less accessible parts of the mountains. In 1632 the Orsini family gave part of the feud to the Borgheses who, after various different owners, finally took permanent possession of the town in 1761. >> Not to be missed Visit the town centre with the Baronial Palace, the Orsini Castle, the Villa of Horatius, and the Church of the Beata Vergine Immacolata which was designed by Luigi Maria Valadier. >> Curiosity The Art Path in the Cinque Sensi Garden in the Monti Lucretili Natural Regional Park consists of seven travertine sculptures realized in 2011 by students in the “Scultura Ambientale and Lapis Tiburtinus” course at the Academy of Fine Arts in Rome. >> On the table The town’s specialties include fettuccine, sagne and traditional frascarelli with tomato sauce. Also characteristic is the Lucretili mountains spelt pasta, the maltagliati with beans and the rencocciata polenta, which is reheated and served with a wild boar sauce. The olive oil, sausages, honey, bread and cheeses are also excellent and among the cakes we find spelt cookies, amaretti and tisichelle.

www.comunedilicenza.it

MAZZANO ROMANO T

he town is accessed through an entrance arch set into the Baronial Palazzo del Biscia, and the town wall has buildings dating from different eras such as the Everso Baronial Palace and the 15th centuty Palazzo Dolce degli Anguillara. At the top of the town you can admire the remains of the ancient Church of San Nicola, built in the 16th century on a design

by Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola and demolished in 1940 as it was in danger of collapsing. In the surrounds of the town you can visit the archaeological area of Narce with ancient Faslican walled sites and the Monte Li Santi, at the top of which we find the remains of a large public building and a Roman villa.

Altitude 200 m asl Inhabitants 3,165

75

Patron Saint San Nicola, December 6th Tourist Information Piazza Giovanni XXIII Tel. 06 9049001 Distance from Rome 47 kms Excursions Veio Natural Regional Park To discover in the surrounding area Monte Gelato mountains and waterfalls, Treja Valley, Museum of Art in Nature Opera Bosco

>> Not to be missed Just outside the castle we find the little Church of San Sebastiano with 16th century frescoes depicting the martyrdom of San Sebastiano between San Rocco and San Gregorio Papa, and a Madonna with Child and Sant’Anna. Montegelato and the Narce area are also interesting. >> Curiosity Various films have been shot at the Monte Gelato waterfalls in the municipal area, while in the old town they shot much of the film Destinazione Piovaro (1956), with Totò in the role of a station master. >> On the table Among the local dishes we find beans with pecorino cheese, lasagne with truffles and fettuccine with porcini mushrooms, and also ricotta and spinach ravioli, gnocchi with forest mushrooms, roast lamb, sausages and grilled lamb skewers. www.mazzanoromano.rm.gov.it

Nearby Nepi, Magliano Romano, Campagnano di Roma, Civita Castellana, Calcata, Faleria, Castel Sant’Elia Environmental attractions Treja Valley Suburban Park and Monte Gelato waterfalls, Veio Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Northern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, trekking Events Fava Bean and Pecorino Festival, May Feast of San Nicola, December

NAZZANO

76

Altitude 202 m asl Inhabitants 1,436

Patron Saint Sant’Antimo, May 11th Tourist Information Via Mazzini, 4 Tel. 0765332002 Distance from Rome 46 kms Excursions Tiber Valley, Monte Soratte Nature Reserve To discover in the surrounding area Farfa Abbey

T

his ancient town in the Valle del Tevere is a Medieval gem with a fascinating history, nature and traditions.

The area was inhabited as early as the Bronze Age but it was in Roman times that it flourished as is evidenced by the numerous villas and the temple of the god Silvanus, the remains of which were later used to erect the Church and the Convent of San Francesco in an ancient wood of oaks and holm oaks. The historic center consists of a single street that ends at the 13th century castle which has two towers at opposite corners, the Mastio which protects the Rocca Savelli fortress, and the tower that served to control the Tiber Valley. >> Not to be missed There are many churches: Santa Maria Consolatrice and the San Francesco complex and, just out outside the town Sant’Antonio with a cycle of frescoes in the apse attributed to Antoniazzo Romano. The Museo del Fiume, tells the story of the river Tiber with rooms focusing on geology, zoology and anthropic activities.

Nearby Ponzano Romano, Filacciano, Montopoli di Sabina, Fiano Romano, Civitella San Paolo, Sant’Oreste, Torrita Tiberina Environmental attractions Nazzano Tevere - Farfa Nature Reserve Sports Excursions, cycling Events Gnocchi Festival, March Pappardelle with wild boar Festival, April Feast of Sant’Antimo, May

>> Curiosity The Nazzano Tevere-Farfa Nature Reserve has been set up to protect the wetland area that formed in the 1950s following the construction of an ENEL hydroelectric dam on the Tiber leading to a dramatic slowdown of river water and the formation of Lake Nazzano.

POLI W

ith views of Monte Guadagnolo and the surrounding mountains, Poli sits on a hilltop in the Prenestini mountains. The town, also called Fuso d’Acropoli, is on the highest and widest point of the tufa ridge on which it stands. The name Poli comes from Castrum Poli or Castrum Pauli and its origins date back to 992. For a long time it was owned by the Benedictine Clivo di Scauro di Roma monastery.

The old town has more than thirty narrow streets in a herring-bone formation with a long road crossing the town longitudinally. Among the main works of art we find the Church of Santo Stefano, which dates back to 1,000 A.D. and has frescoes by Taddeo Zuccari and Antonio Rosati. The beautiful Baronial Palace is made up of two parts, one dating back to the Oddoni era and the end of the first millennium, and the other to the 16th century when the building was transformed into the palace and became the baron’s residence.

>> Not to be missed The 15th century Church of Sant’Antonio Abate with its 17th century frescoes, the historic center, the parish Church of San Pietro and the 1138 Church of Santo Stefano. The Chapel of the Pietà, on the way to the little hamlet of Casape, is also interesting and has a beautiful marble interior. >> Curiosity As early as the 14th century the Fraticelli, also known as the Fraticelli della Vita Povera or the Fraticelli della Opinione, spread in Poli. Members of this group were considered heretics and condemned by various pontiffs.

> On the table Typical dishes include ravioli stuffed with fish, asparagus risotto, strozzapreti cacio e pepe, lasagna with artichokes, hand-made gnocchi, polenta and pappardelle with wild boar sauce. Also worthy of note are the vegetable stracci di Antrodoco. Among the sweetmeats we find aniseed donuts and mostaccioli, dried biscuits with hazelnuts, honey, pepper and grated orange peel.

>> On the table Among the typical dishes we find sagne al sugo, polenta ponente, the famous azima pizza, the cucchi co li fasori, panzanella and gnocchi with tomatoes. Among the sweetmeats we find pangiallo and stuzzicotti.

www.nazzano.rm.gov.it

www.comune.poli.rm.it

Camper sites

Altitude 435 m asl Inhabitants 2,418

77

Patron Saint Sant’Eustachio, September 20th Tourist Information Piazza Conti, 2 Tel. 06 9551002 Distance from Rome 41 kms Excursions Monte Guadagnolo To discover in the surrounding area Palestrina National Archaeological Museum, Tivoli’s villas Nearby Castel San Pietro Romano, San Gregorio da Sassola, Capranica Prenestina, Casape Environmental attractions Monti Tiburtini and Prenestini Sports Cycling, excursions Events Flower Festival, June Feast of Sant’Antonio, August Feast of Sant’Eustachio, September

PONZANO ROMANO T

78

Altitude 205 m asl

Inhabitants 1,155

Patron Saint San Nicola di Bari, December 6th Tourist Information Via Armando Casalini, 7 Tel. 0765 338175 Distance from Rome 53 kms Excursions Anello della Valle del Fosso dell’Acqua Forte To discover in the surrounding area Monte Soratte anatomical bunker

he origins of this town are linked to the Tiber river and its name would seem to derive from pons Jani, the Giano bridge, or perhaps from gens Pontia, a Roman family that owned a villa in the area. The town has an interesting history with many artistic structures and monuments dating back to the 14th century, although it dates back much earlier to when the Etruscans settled in this area on the right bank of the Tiber, the border with the Sabines who were on the left bank. In the old part of the town we find a fortress which in 1688 was transformed by Cardinal Paluzzo Altieri into the Palazzo Abbaziale. The very beautiful Valle di Fosso dell’Acquaforte under the town has green landscapes and scenic paths which are ideal for trekking and excursions. The parish church dedicated to the patron saint of the city, San Nicola di Bari, is in the center of the town and contains works from the Abbey of Sant’Andrea in Flumine, a silvery reliquary by Rainerius Teramnese and the 16th century triptych of SS. Salvatore delle Grazie. >> Not to be missed The historic center, the Church and the Convent of San Sebastiano, the Church of San Nicola di Bari and the Acqua Forte mineral spring.

Nearby Civita Castellana, Filacciano, Civitella San Paolo, Nazzano, Sant’Oreste Environmental attractions Nazzano Tevere - Farfa Nature Reserve Sports Cycling, trekking Events Feast of the Nativity of Maria Santissima, September Feast of San Nicola di Bari, Zitella Festival, December

ROCCA CANTERANO A

s early as the 2nd century A.D. the Romans had perceived the potential of this area building a fortress and villas here. However the town’s history began only in 1084 when the Abbot of Subiaco ordered the construction of a fortress to protect the village, thereby opposing resistance to Landone, the tyrant of Bellegra and Cerreto. After five hundred years the fortress became the present Palazzo Moretti and Piazza di Corte square. Down the years homes and roads were added in a zigzag fashion as were stairways with the aim of making assaults more difficult. The dense forests of holm oaks, chestnuts and hornbeams in the area are populated by deer and roe deer, wild boar, hedgehogs, badgers, hares and foxes. In the beautiful Church of Santa Maria Assunta, damaged by the 2000 earthquake as were other buildings in the town, the Chapel of Our Lady of the Madonna del Divino Amore has been restored.

>> Not to be missed Palazzo Moretti, with the restored salon, the Church of the Madonna del Brecciaro which is now a ruin, and the Church of San Michele on the Costa Sole mountaintop.

>> Curiosity The painter Agostino Tassi, who was born in 1886 in Ponzano, was commissioned to produce many works that we can admire today in Rome in the Palazzo del Quirinale, Palazzo Lancellotti, Cappella Paolina and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.

>> Curiosity A new Rape of the Sabine Women started from the Rocca fortress, built by the Abbot of Subiaco in 1084. The “kidnappers” of the girls later proposed reconciliation by setting up a banquet for the families that had been affected, and since then every year Rocca Canterano offers guests a Lunch of Reconciliation.

>> On the table Among the specialties we find fried artichokes, cold cuts and stuffed white pizza. The pasta dishes include maltagliati alla gricia, fettuccine and fregnacce with a white wild boar or beef sauce. Among the main courses try the coda alla vaccinara oxtail stew, the tripe, coratella, wild boar stew and lamb kebabs.

>> On the table Among the typical dishes we find cecamariti, sagne with lamb sauce and gnocchetti made with water and flour. Other specialties are cabbage with potatoes which are boiled and then tossed in the pan, and pizza sorda made with maize flour and then broiled.

www.comune.ponzanoromano.rm.it

www.comune.roccacanterano.rm.it

Altitude 745 m asl Inhabitants 196

79

Patron Saint San Michele, May 8th Tourist Information Via del Municipio, 31 Tel. 0774 803400 Distance from Rome 60 kms Excursions Trails in the Aniene Valley To discover in the surrounding area The monasteries of Subiaco Nearby Anticoli Corrado, Saracinesco, Marano Equo, Agosta, Canterano, Gerano, Cerreto Laziale Environmental attractions Aniene Valley, Arcinazzo Highlands Sports Cycling, trekking Events Feast of San Michele, May Cecamariti Festival, August Love And Peace Torchlight Procession, September Cuckold Festival and Saga della Rola, November

ROCCA SANTO STEFANO T

80

Altitude 664 m asl

Inhabitants 975

Patron Saint Santo Stefano, December 26 and August 3rd th

Tourist Information Via Padre Pellegrino Ernetti, 9 Tel. 06 9567304 Distance from Rome 82 kms Excursions Antera Wood, Nocchietta Spring, Peace Trail

he origins of this town date back to a 6th century document of Pope Gregorio Magno in Subiaco Abbey which quotes a settlement that developed around the Church of Santo Stefano. This church has 16th century frescoes of the Perugino school as well as paintings of great value that would seem to be the work of Michelangelo Buonarroti. The town was regularly plundered and a small castle was built on the highest spur of the rock, with houses and fortified walls being gradually added to fortify and defend the castle. There were two gates in the walls: one leading to the municipal bakery and to a small square, and the other to the Piazza Pontica square where there was a drawbridge that was raised every night at sunset. The historic center has retained its Medieval character with a network of narrow streets and houses in local stone. >> Not to be missed A stroll through the fortress to discover narrow streets and alleyways, passing the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, the Church of San Sebastiano and the Church of Sant’Antonio di Padova.

To discover in the surrounding area Tivoli’s Acque Albule spa waters, Genazzano Castle Nearby Canterano, Gerano, Subiaco, Affile, Bellegra Environmental attractions Aniene Valley, Sacco Valley Sports Cycling, trekking Events St. Stephen’s Day, December / August Gnoccacci Festival, June Corpus Christi with infiorata Flower Festival, May /June

>> Curiosity The ValleVegan Foundation, on an area of eleven hectares, is managed by a vegan group that welcomes sick and abandoned animals and helps their psychophysical recovery with a view to returning them to their natural habitat.

ROIATE T

he town’s original fortifications on a sandstone spur have the shape of a ship’s prow when seen from above. With narrow streets and courtyard squares, archaeological finds testify to the ancient origins of the town with small necropolises that were discovered in the foothills of the Santa Maria la Serra mountain range. The area was inhabited by the Romans and by the Equi population, and during the Roman period numerous walls, cisterns and epigraphic testimonies were built. The earliest records of Roiate focus on Benedetto da Norcia who today is revered in the church built in his honor. Tradition has it that the saint left the imprint of his body on a boulder that in time worked miracles. Among the main monuments we find the remains of the Churches of San Salvatore, San Rocco and Santa Maria, the Church of the SS. Trinità with frescoes of Giotto’s school, and the Parish Church of San Tommaso with a 1300 painting of the Savior.

>> Not to be missed The remains of the 12th century castle, the archaeological sites and the Roman walls, while the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie is also interesting.

Altitude 697 m asl Inhabitants 737

81

Patron Saint San Salvatore, November 9th Tourist Information Via della Chiesa, 7 Tel. 06 9569002 Distance from Rome 76 kms Excursions Pertuso di Roiate, Arch Grotto, Path of Peace To discover in the surrounding area Arcinazzo HIghlands, Villa of Horatius in Licenza Nearby Bellegra, Affile, Olevano Romano, Serrone, Arcinazzo Romano

>> Curiosity Up to 1911 under Roiate there was a small lake that attracted game and was fed by numerous springs. It was perhaps one of these springs, the Fonte Roia, that gave the town its name.

>> On the table Try the porcini mushrooms, gnoccacci dumplings, polenta with pork ribs or mutton and the pasta and bean soup with small squares of pasta. Among the delicious desserts we find the typical pink wine donuts and aniseed donuts.

>> On the table Among the gastronomic specialties we find grilled meats like the lamb that features in the September festival. The local Rosciola PAT extra virgin olive oil, cheeses and ricotta are also excellent. Also try the pulses and the pasta dishes with simple sauces taken from peasant traditions, and the Cesanese DOC wines produced in the Valle dei Vigneti vineyards, which are among the best Italian reds.

www.comune.roccasantostefano.rm.it

www.comune.roiate.rm.it

Environmental attractions Aniene Valley, Sacco Valley Religious itineraries Church of San Benedetto Sports Cycling, trekking Events Lamb Festival, September Feast of the SS. Salvatore and Vinello New Wine Festival, Roiatese New Oil Festival, November

ROVIANO

82

Altitude 523 m asl Inhabitants 1,351

Patron Saint San Giovanni, August 29th Tourist Information Piazza della Repubblica, 4 Tel. 0774 903143 Distance from Rome 55 kms Excursions Monte Del Ponte and Scotonico Bridge Trail To discover in the surrounding area Rovianello’s ruins and the Scotonico Bridge Nearby Riofreddo, Arsoli, Marano Equo, Mandela, Anticoli Corrado, Cineto Romano

T

his town, on a small calcareous hill in the upper Aniene Valley, was the feud of the Colonna family in the 13th century and then passed to the Barberinis.

It is overlooked by the Castle of Brancaccio, a noble residence which is now the Museo della Civiltà Contadina in the quaint historical center that dates back to the year 1000. The area is crossed by the Acqua Marcia Aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius Rex between 144 and 130 B.C. Just outside the town we find Medieval Rovianello and the Scaramuccia Gate dating to the second half of the 14th century which is named after a 1570 skirmish between the inhabitants of Roviano and the people of Arsoli for the control of the springs in the area. >> Not to be missed Church of San Giovanni Battista and the 8th-century Church of Santa Maria dell’Oliva. Other interesting sites are the ruins of the Convent of Santa Maria dell’Oliva, the Pischera, an ancient fountain built by Alfonso Colonna around the first half of the 16th century, and the Museo della Civilità Contadina. >> Curiosity The Scotonico Bridge is a majestic viaduct built by the Emperor Nerva at the 25th mile of the Via Valeria.

Environmental attractions Monti Simbruini, Monti Ruffi Park Sports Trekking Events Marzella Asparagus Festival, June Cuzzi co ‘j’ajju Festival, July Panarda Festival and Feast of San Giovanni, Deju salavaticu Festival, August

SANT’ORESTE T

his town lies on the slopes of the Soratte, the isolated mountain between the Tiber and the Tyrrhenian Sea and is so fascinating under a mantle of snow that Horatius wrote an ode praising it. The urban fabric is Medieval as are most of the churches, hermitages and monasteries. Among the most important are the Santa Maria Hospitalis outside the town, and the San Silvestro on the mountaintop which are entirely frescoed with single figures or pictorial cycles. As early as the 16th century the town enjoyed great prestige as is evidenced by the stately mansions in the old town centre and the 1568 Church of San Lorenzo which has a beautiful bell tower with double-arched windows. The Churches of San Biagio and San Nicola at the Porta La Dentro Gate, in the oldest part of the town, are also very beautiful. >> Not to be missed In the historic center we find the Monastery of Santa Croce, Palazzo Leoni, Palazzo Galletti and Palazzo Rosati, enhanced by the arcades of the veranda garden which look out over the Tiber valley, and Palazzo Caccia, an elegant Renaissance residence probably designed by Vignola. The large rooms on the first floor, with splendid views over the valley, still have the original fresco decorations with friezes and figures of great interest. The 1546 boxweed cross with scenes from the Old and New Testament and hundreds of carved figures is of particular interest. >> Curiosity In the days preceding the feast of the Madonna di Maggio hundreds of reeds are laid on the mountain and then burned when the procession reaches Piazza Mola a Vento: a unique spectacle of fire, smoke and fireworks.

>> On the table Among the typical dishes we find the Roviano PAT cuzzi, the ramiccia, the pasta and bean soup that features in the Panarda Festival and the salavatici di Roviano PAT, a type of fritter dressed with oil and Roman mint. The local asparagus, called marzella by the townspeople, is also very good.

CITY OF BIO

www.comuneroviano.rm.it

www.santoreste.rm.gov.it

>> On the table Among the typical dishes we find acquacotta, frascarelli with ricotta, gnocchetti with beans, maccheroni a Iffa and panemmolle, a pasta with chickpeas, rosemary and tomato that is poured onto toasted bread. The area produces Sirole PAT extra virgin olive oil.

Altitude 420 m asl Inhabitants 3,687

83

Patron Saint Sant’Edisto, October 12th Tourist Information Piazza Cavalieri Caccia, 10 Tel. 0761 57841 Distance from Rome 48 kms

Excursions The Meri, the Church of Santa Romana, the grottos and the hermitages To discover in the surrounding area The Monte Soratte bunker tunnel network Nearby Civita Castellana, Stimigliano, Nazzano, Civitella San Paolo, Rignano Flaminio, Ponzano Romano, Faleria Environmental attractions Monte Soratte Nature Reserve Sports Cycling, trekking Events Hunters Festival, July Feast of Sant’Edisto, October

SARACINESCO A

84

Altitude 908 m asl

Inhabitants 185

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September Tourist Information Piazza Roma, 3 Tel. 0774 791004

Distance from Rome 50 kms Excursions The Sheep’s Trail on the Monti Ruffi, Monte Macchia, Monte Costasole To discover in the surrounding area Tivoli’s Acque Albule spa waters, Convent of San Cosimato Nearby Mandela, Vicovaro, Sambuci, Anticoli Corrado, Rocca Canterano, Cerreto Laziale Environmental attractions Aniene Valley, Monti Ruffi Sports Cycling Events Corradino di Svevia Historical Parade, August Polenta and Sausages Festival, Feast of San Michele Arcangelo, September

round the year 876 a small group of Saracens raided Tivoli, Vicovaro and other towns in the Aniene Valley, and then settled at the top of the Ruffi mountain range with the intention of creating a community. Saracinesco takes its name from these Saracens and the castle, built four centuries later, belonged to the Orsini family and was later destroyed as there are only a few remains left today. The naturalistic landscape is pristine and, with its silent alleyways, the Medieval center is fascinating.

Precious 16th century frescoes are preserved in the Parish Church of San Michele Arcangelo, where a valuable 14th century wooden statue depicting the Virgin with the Child can also be admired. >> Not to be missed The origins of the town are visible in the ruins of the Roman Anio Novus aqueduct which collected the waters in the upper Aniene Valley. The perimeter of the Benedictine Fortress is atmospheric as is the giant sundial with the inscription Carpe diem that adorns the fortress’s containing spur. The scenery that can be admired from the summit of Mount Costasole is impressive. >> Curiosity The Museo del Tempo is an outdoor museum where time machines find their utmost expression: from the Globe of Matelica to the Analemmatica Meridiana, and from the solar equatorial clock to the pastoral clock and then the horizontal, vertical and declining clocks, all of which can be found strolling along the alleyways of the town. >> On the table The typical product is the Saracinesco PAT truffle which is used for pasta dishes like the strozzapreti al tartufo. Try the polenta with ciammarughe and the sagne with beans. The fettuccine with porcini mushrooms, mezze maniche alla buttera, tagliatalle alla boscaiola and oxtail coda alla vaccinara are also local specialties. www.comune.saracinesco.rm.it

TORRITA TIBERINA W

ritten mention of Torrita, the strategic center of the Tiberina Valley, dates back to 747, the year Charlemagne gave a gift of some land to the Benedictines of the Sant’Andrea in Flumine Monastery. The Savelli family dominated the town in Medieval days and built the Castle and the city center, which is on a high slope from which we can enjoy wonderful views over the Tiber Valley. The Baronial Palace was built by transforming the original signalling towers into a fortress with a wall, moat and drawbridge. In the interesting Church of San Tommaso Apostolo, originally the castle’s chapel, there are paintings by Pinturicchio and Maratta. Torrita Tiberina is part of the Nazzano Tevere-Farfa Nature Reserve, a river valley with a rich ecosystem. >> Not to be missed The beautiful Roman villas in Celli, the remains of a wall that was perhaps part of the Villa of Agrippina, and Nero’s swimming pool. Also visit the Church of Santa Maria del Monte to admire the frescoes in the Trasi Chapel. >> Curiosity Aldo Moro, the Italian politician and statesman who was kidnapped on March 16th, 1978 and killed by the Red Brigades on May 9th, is buried in the cemetery of Torrita Tiberina, where he often stayed. > On the table Among the specialties we find egg fettuccine with the delicious wild asparagus found in the clearings in the forests of Torrita Tiberina. Other popular local dishes are the fallone, a calzone stuffed with chicory and chards, and fava beans with pecorino. www.comune.torritatiberina.rm.it

Altitude 179 m asl Inhabitants 1,089

85

Patron Saint San Tommaso Apostolo, December 21st Tourist Information Largo 16 Marzo Tel. 0765 30116 Distance from Rome 50 kms Excursions Nazzano Tevere - Farfa Nature Reserve Nearby Filacciano, Poggio Mirteto, Montopoli di Sabina, Nazzano Environmental attractions Nazzano Tevere - Farfa Nature Reserve, Treja Valley Park Sports Cycling, excursions, trekking Events Wild Asparagus Festival, Bean and Pecorino Tastings and Festival, April Feast of San Tommaso Apostolo, December Camper sites

SANTA MARIA DI GALERIA

ISOLA FARNESE

CASTELLO DI PORTO OSTIA ANTICA

ROMA AND ENVIRONS WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO TASTE

WHAT TO DO

>> Porto di Traiano Archaeological Area

>> Spumante, Torrimpietra and Maccarese wines

>> Isola Sacra, visit the Porto Necropolis

>> Litorale Romano Nature Reserve

>> Campagnano artichokes

>> Ostia Antica Archaeological Excavations

>> DOP extra virgin olive oil

>> Veio Natural Regional Park

>> Saltimbocca and Ossobuco Roman style

>> Galeria Antica Natural Monument >> Marcigliana Nature Reserve >> Isola Farnese, Portonaccio Sanctuary >> Villa di Tiberio Promontory Natural Monument >> Pantanello Natural Park

>> Deep-fried fish, Ostia

>> Carbonara, Amatriciana and Cheese and Pepper pasta

>> Fiumicino, visit the Porto di Traiano Archaeological Area >> Via Francigena >> Excursions to Ravennati Park >> Ostia, Clam Festival (September)

CASTELLO DI PORTO T

88

Altitude 1 m asl

Inhabitants Archaeological Area

Patron Saint Sant’Ippolito di Roma, October 5th Tourist Information Piazza del Campidoglio,1 Roma - Tel. 060608

he ancient town of Portus, with its magnificent archaeological site, is now a ghost town following the silting up of the Tiber and the invasion of the Saracens.

On the Via Portuense, not far from the entrance to the Oasis of Porto and the Port of Trajan archaeological area, it still has its crenellated walls and entrance portal with the coat of arms of Pope Sisto IV, dating back to 1483.

In the Middle Ages the town, which is the bishopric of Porto and Santa Rufina, also had a defensive function against the Barbarian invasions. In the 16th century the architects Pirro Ligorio, Baldassarre Peruzzi and Andrea Palladio studied the ruins of the village in the 16th century and the later 19th century excavations uncovered the remains of this ancient settlement. Today the Port of Trajan archaeological area and the nearby necropolis can be visited. The internal courtyard, through the main gate, is the oldest part of the town with the Church of Sant’Ippolito e Lucia, which contains the relics of the patron saint of Fiumicino. >> Not to be missed The impressive Porto di Traiano Archaeological Area, the Church of Sant’Ippolito e Lucia and the necropolis.

Distance from Rome 30 kms Excursions Porto Oasis, Porto di Traiano Archaeological Area To discover in the surrounding area Castle di Giulio II Nearby Via Portuense, Fiumicino, Isola Sacra Environmental attractions Porto Oasis, Litorale Romano Nature Reserve Sports Mountain biking, trekking

>> Curiosity For many centuries Porto, built around the ancient ports of Claudius and Trajan, played a strategic role as Rome’s main commercial port. After the 9th century it fell into decline which gradually lead to the town being abandoned. >> On the table As well as typically Roman dishes like pasta carbonara and amatriciana, try the fish specialties like the deepfried fish and tasty spaghetti with clams. Other popular dishes are the fettuccine with porcini mushrooms and with wild boar sauce, and the polenta. And do not miss the sparkling wine from the vineyards of nearby Maccarese and Torrimpietra. www.comune.roma.it

ISOLA FARNESE T

he town of Isola Farnese, perched on top of a volcanic cliff, has Etruscan origins. The houses, often in tufa, formed the town separated from the Baron’s Palace dating back to the Middle Ages and built inside the Farnese Castle. Owned by the Orsini family it is in an isolated position, between the Storta and San Sebastiano valleys and this gave it the name of Insula. The Church of San Pancrazio with a beautiful portal built, with marble from Roman times and the rose window with polychromatic glass decorations, are both worthy of note. Inside there are many frescoes and on the right aisle you can see a precious 15th century wooden crucifix, the baptismal font and a holy-water font. There are many historical traces of Roman days like the Piazza della Colonnetta, the Roman column and, in the Church of San Pancrazio, to the left of the arch, the fragment of a Roman relief with two spouses.

>> Not to be missed The beautiful Portonaccio Sanctuary on Via Campetti Reserve and the archaeological area on the Formellese Alley with the Acropolis of Veio, the Tomba delle Anatre, the Tomba dei Leoni Ruggenti and the Bagni della Regina in Veio as well as the Via Prato della Corte. >> Curiosity The Veio Natural Regional Park is in the province of Rome and around it there are interesting historical and natural attractions like the Roman Villa in Campetti, the archaeological ruins and the Fosso Piordo. >> On the table The town produces cheeses, honey and vegetables, including Campagnano artichokes and extra virgin olive oil. There are many local Roman delicacies like the pasta alla carbonara, amatriciana, and with cheese and pepper and the meat dishes include ossobuco and saltimbocca alla romana. www.comune.roma.it

Altitude 110 m asl Inhabitants 3,861

89

Patron Saint San Pietro e Paolo, June 29th Tourist Information Piazza del Campidoglio,1 Roma - Tel. 060608 Distance from Rome 25 kms Excursions Veio Natural Regional Park To discover in the surrounding area Nero’s Tomb, Marcigliana Nature Reserve, Lake Bracciano Nearby Formello, Prima Porta, La Giustiniana, La Storta Environmental attractions Veio Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Via Francigena Sports Cycling, trekking Events Feast of San Pancrazio, May Camper sites

OSTIA ANTICA I

90

Altitude 12 m asl

Inhabitants 14,922

Patron Saint Sant’Agostino, August 28th Tourist Information Piazza del Campidoglio, 1 Roma - Tel. 060608 Distance from Rome 19 kms Excursions Ravennati Park, Litorale Romano Nature Reserve To discover in the surrounding area Underground Rome, Imperial Forum, Palatine hill, Villa di Tiberio Promontory Natural Monument Nearby Lido di Ostia, Fiumicino, Casalpalocco, Acilia Environmental attractions Litorale Romano Nature Reserve Sports Hiking, trekking Events Feast of Sant’Agostino, August Gnocchi Festival, Salt Festival, July Clam Festival, September

n Ostia Antica you must visit the archaeological site with the remains of part of the city, excavated in the 19th and 20th centuries, where 120,000 people once lived. This site, together with that of Pompeii, is the largest in the world, on an area of 150 hectares. Only 40% of the buildings were brought to light, leaving more than half the city still buried. Ostia Antica was founded by the fourth king of Rome, Ancus Marcius, around 620 BC, but surveys show that the oldest buildings date to a later period. The architectural nucleus consists of the castrum, the remains of nine religious buildings used for Eastern religions, the baths and taberne. Among those that have been preserved we find the theatre that can hold four thousand people and is still used for performances and concerts. There is also a striking forum and water systems, and houses with and without gardens. On the Horrea Epagathiana we find the Temple of Hercules and the Domus of Eros and Psyche which gets its name from a small group of statues found in one of the bedrooms.

>> Not to be missed As well as the archaeological excavations of Ostia Antica visit Borgo Gregoriopoli, the Santa Aurea Basilica on the Viale dei Romagnoli, and the Castello di Giulio II, a 15th century Renaissance fortress.

SANTA MARIA DI GALERIA N estled in the Agro Romano countryside north of the capital, this ancient town is perched on a small western tufa spur close to the Arrone river. The town was abandoned more than two centuries ago and the vegetation has taken over the whole area, with many plant species of great interest including oaks and maples, but also turkey oaks, elms and alders. For this reason in 1999 the ruins of Galeria were declared a Natural Monument. Some say the name is attributed to the ancient Latin Galerii tribe, while other sources attribute it to the birth site of the Etruscan civilization, thanks to numerous necropolises in the area. Past the castle you can admire the bell tower of the Church of San Nicola and the Church of Santa Maria in Celsano, later renamed Santa Maria di Galeria. Also interesting are the Church of Santa Maria della Valle which was completely destroyed and is also called the Church dell’Ospedale Vecchio, and the Church of San Sebastiano where liturgical functions were performed in honour of the saint.

>> Not to be missed The picturesque medieval town, Casale Celsano and the Cemetery of Santa Maria di Galeria.

>> Curiosity The name Ostia comes from Ostium meaning the mouth of the river. The Tiber once flowed into the sea here but after a flood the coast advanced some four kilometers, and today you can still see the remains of the ancient hexagonal harbour.

>> Curiosity The town of Santa Maria di Galeria was chosen as a set for period films such as “Il papa di Giovanna” directed by Pupi Avati , and “Suspiria” by Dario Argento. The laid-back and romantic atmosphere makes it a perfect choice for weddings.

>> On the table Enjoy the seafood dishes such as the ravioli stuffed with sea bass, spaghetti with clams, fettuccine with pesto and shrimp, the sautéd mussels and clams and the paccheri with shrimps and zucchini flowers. Roman cuisine is also popular, with buffalo mozzarella, roast pork, local cheeses and cured meats, and beans with pork rind.

>> On the table The genuine local cuisine is very flavoursome and reflects the best of Italian peasant traditions. The pasta courses include some of the most famous Roman dishes and there are excellent local meats on the grill, suckling pig and roast lamb, while artichokes, asparagus, porcini mushrooms and local cheeses are always on the table.

www.comune.roma.it

www.comune.roma.it

Altitude 127 m asl

Inhabitants 3,615

91

Patron Saint San Pietro e Paolo, June 29th Tourist Information Piazza del Campidoglio, 1 Roma - Tel. 060608 Distance from Rome 30 kms Excursions Galeria Antica Natural Monument, Arrone Valley To discover in the surrounding area Pantanello Natural Park, Veio Natural Regional Park, Aniene Valley Nearby Cesano, La Storta, Castel di Guido, Anguillara Sabazia, Fiumicino Environmental attractions Galeria Antica Natural Monument Sports Hiking, cycling, trekking

CASAPE GALLICANO NEL LAZIO ZAGAROLO COLONNA

ROCCA DI CAVE

CAPRANICA PRENESTINA

GAVIGNANO ALBANO LAZIALE

ROCCA MASSIMA GORGA

ROCCAGORGA ROCCASECCA DEI VOLSCI PRIVERNO

CASTELLI ROMANI, MONTI PRENESTINI AND LEPINI WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO TASTE

WHAT TO DO

>> Castelli Romani Regional Park

>> Zagarolo DOC, Montecompatri Colonna DOC and Castelli Romani DOC white wines

>> Southern Via Francigena

>> Tuscolo Archaeological Cultural Park

>> Campana DOP Mozzarella and buffalo ricotta

>> Gavignano, Maccaruni Festival

>> Gavignano, Monastry of the Madonna di Rossilli

>> Colline Pontine DOP extra virgin olive oil

>> Albano Laziale, Castra Albana Archaeological Circuit

>> Appia Antica Natural Regional Park >> Capranica Prenestina, Sanctuary of the Mentorella >> Casape Macchia Riserva Wood >> Villa di Tiberio Promontory Natural Monument >> Lake Fondi Natural Monument >> Priverno, Fossanova Abbey

>> Nemi PAT wild strawberries >> Zagarolo PAT Tordo di Matto >> Arcinazzo Romano PAT Chestnut and Capranica Prenestina PAT Mosciarelle dried chestnuts >> Lazio IGP Roman artichokes >> Priverno PAT scottolate donuts >> Colonna Italia grapes

>> Roccagorga, Hermitage of Sant’Erasmo

>> Rocca Massima: Flying in the Sky zip-line >> Gioacchino’s Way on the Monti Lepini >> Casape, Follaccianu Festival (July) >> Water Trail in Albano >> In the footsteps of Karol Wojtila towards the Mentorella >> Fossanova’s Pontino di Musica Festival >> Roman Hills, Prenestine Mountains and Lepreas

ALBANO LAZIALE T

94

Altitude 400 m asl

Inhabitants 41,715

Patron Saint San Pancrazio Martire, May 12th Tourist Information Piazza della Costituente 1 Tel. 06 932951 Distance from Rome 30 kms

Excursions Lake Albano Circuit, Walking Trail to Palazzolo Abbey, Itinerary on Monte Cavo To discover in the surrounding area Lake Nemi, Tusculum Villas Nearby Rocca di Papa, Ardea, Ariccia, Grottaferrata Environmental attractions Castelli Romani Regional Park Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena, San Nilo Abbey Sports Cycling, windsurfing, sailing, paragliding, trekking Events Feast of San Pancrazio Martire, May Feast of the Madonna della Rotonda, August Feast of the Madonna del Rosario, October Camper sites

his, one of the most important towns in the Castelli Romani, is in a park of the same name. During the Roman Empire the 6,000 bodyguards of Settimius Severus were lodged in the Castra Albana fortified camps which extended for nearly ten hectares before reaching the lake on the Via Appia. It has numberous archaeological sites, most of which can be visited: from the Amphitheatre of Severianus to the Baths of Caracalla, called the Baths of Cellomaio and the Cisternoni, the large 10,000-cubic metre cistern of the Castra, which is still in perfect working order. Albano also has an interesting Historic and Artistic Circuit with the Church of Santa Maria della Rotonda, on a smaller scale but with the same proportions as the Roman Pantheon and which was built on a Roman nympheum, the Medieval Church of San Pietro, on the nympheum of the Baths of Cellomaio, with an 11th century Cosmatesque steeple and the Pretoria Gate which was the main entrance of the Castra. >> Not to be missed The Cathedral of San Pancrazio, the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Rotonda, and the Castra Albana Archaeological Circuit with Roman ruins, the Civic Museum in Villa Ferrajoli and the Parthica II Legion Museum, in what were the Grandi Terme baths for the legionnaires. >> Curiosity According to legend Albano Laziale was founded by Aeneas, who had a dream about a white sow that showed him exactly where to erect the city of the Latins. >> On the table There are many local products including the Roman PAT broccoli, PAT horsemeat mortadella, Arcinazzo Roman PAT chestnut and the Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil. Among the most interesting dishes we find pasta alla carbonara, toasts with anchovies and, for those with a sweet tooth, maritozzi buns with whipped cream and Nemi wild strawberries. Wine lovers will appreciate the Castelli Romani DOC, heir to the famous Albano which was the finest wine on the Roman empire’s tables. www.comune.albanolaziale.rm.it

CAPRANICA PRENESTINA T his old town sits at a thousand meters in the Prenestini Mountains. Its history and art can be enjoyed in its characteristic alleyways and streets, on its stairways and in its houses that huddle close together in the typical style of Medieval fortified towns. It also has spectacular views and charming little squares. Strolling around we find the Renaissance Palazzo Capranica built in various stages starting in the Middle Ages, and the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena, overlooking a delightful little square with an old well in local stone. The church’s elegant and original dome is attributed to the school of Bramante. Among the religious buildings we find the well-known Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Mentorella and the 16th century Church of Santa Maria delle Fratte, which attracts many pilgrims.

>> Not to be missed The Church of the Maddalena, the Monti Prenestini Natural History Museum, Palazzo Capranica-Barberini, and the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Mentorella, the oldest shrine in Italy dedicated to the Madonna, which is a popular pilgrimage destination and was visited on many occasions by John Paul II who loved to pray there. >> Curiosity Guadagnolo is a hamlet of Capranica and is the highest village in Lazio (1,218 m). Its rocky walls are very popular with climbing enthusiasts. In the casette, which are small buildings scattered throughout the age-old chestnut forests, they dry and smoke the local chestnuts which were known in Roman days for their exceptional quality. >> On the table There are many local specialties such as the lane pelose, bran fettuccine with mutton sauce and dishes with raw and cooked mushrooms. The Capranica Prenestina PAT mosciarelle, dried, sweet and slightly aromatic chestnuts are produced in the area and used in many dishes. www.comunecapranicaprenestina.it

Altitude 915 m asl Inhabitants 351

95

Patron Saint San Rocco, August 16th Tourist Information Piazza Aristide Frezza, 6 Tel. 06 9584031 Distance from Rome 60 kms Excursions The Creste Trail From Capranica to Guadagnolo, the Ciuccio Road From Capranica to Prenestina Pisoniano To discover in the surrounding area Sanctuary of the Mentorella, Monti Prenestini

Nearby Genazzano, San Vito Romano, Pisoniano, Ciciliano, San Gregorio da Sassola, Casape, Poli, Rocca di Cave, Castel San Pietro Romano Environmental attractions Monti Sabini, Simbruini, Ernici and Lepini Religious itineraries In the Footsteps of Karol Wojtyla Sports Mountain biking, trekking, climbing, nordic walking, horseback riding Events Feast of San Rocco and Ricotta Festival, August Mosciarelle Chestnut Festival, November Moscato Festival, September

CASAPE

96

Altitude 475 m asl Inhabitants 748

Patron Saint San Pietro Apostolo, August 18th Tourist Information Via Roma, 24 Tel. 0774 489000 Distance from Rome 47 kms Excursions Bosco Macchia Reserve (Monte Guadagnolo) To discover in the surrounding area Bosco Macchia Reserve Nearby Poli, Capranica Prenestina Environmental attractions Monte Guadagnolo Religious itineraries Church of the Miracolosa Madonna della Piazzetta Sports Excursions, climbing, mountain biking, horseback riding, trekking Events Feast of San Pietro Apostolo, August Follaccianu Festival, July Caldarrosta Chestnut Festival, October

W

hen seen from afar Casape, a small Medieval town perched around the Baronial Castle, along the coast on a spur in the Monti Prenestini mountains, looks like a honeycomb. The origins of Casape date back to the start of the Roman Empire and General Gnaeus Domitius Corbulo who built his villa here on a site which later became a small agricultural town called Casa Corbuli. During the difficult period of the struggles between the powerful Roman patrician families the town was contested by the Orsinis and the Colonnas and then passed into the hands of the Barberinis before being sold in 1655 to Cardinal Pius of Savoia and getting the name Casa dei Pio. In the 16th century a severe epidemic devastated San Gregorio da Sassola but, miraculously, Casa dei Pio was spared.

The people attributed this miracle to an image of the Madonna from which tears suddenly flowed, and still today the Madonna’s shrine is the object of great veneration. >> Not to be missed The Church of San Michele Arcangelo, the Baronial Castle, Villa Patrizia, the Chapel of the Miracolosa Madonna della Piazzetta. >> Curiosity There are various theories regarding the origins of the name - which from Casa dei Pio in time became first Casapio and then Casape - from the bees on the Barberini coat of arms, or Casa Ape, for the well-known industriosness of the local population. >> On the table Among the typical local dishes we find polenta with snails, ramiccia, zazicchie co’ ju sarapijiu, which are sausages with thyme, and facioli co’ i zampetti ‘e porco which are beans with pork skin.

Among the desserts we find the aniseed-flavoured ciambelloni all’anice, the typical Gaeta DOP olives and the mosciarelle, small and tasty dried chestnuts. www.comune.casape.rm.it

COLONNA T

his, one of the smallest towns in the Castelli Romani, stands on a hill of volcanic origin and is part of the Castelli Romani e Prenestini Montana Community.

The very ancient origins of Colonna are based on archeological finds dating back to the Bronze Age. The most credible account of the origins of the name are that it was the only surviving column of an ancient settlement from which the Roman Colonna family also got its name at the beginning of the 11th century. The Baronial Palace at the top of the hill is one of the main monuments and has a large rusticated portal. A water reservoir was built between 1953 and 1956 and is affectionately called the piggy bank by the townspeople as it resembles a moneybox and adds to the charm of this litte town. >> Not to be missed The Palazzo Baronale baronial palace, which was built by the Colonna family on the primitive Roman castrum, and Colonna’s railway station, on the Rome-Fiuggi-Frosinone line, which was designed in 1907. >> Curiosity Gabriele D’Annunzio stayed in Colonna for some time after marrying his first wife, Duchess Maria Harduin, and the Colonna railway station recalls the great writer. >> On the table The typical local product is the Italia variety of grape, and the Latina IGP kiwis and peaches are also of excellent quality. Among the typical dishes you can not miss the pincinelle homemade pasta, artichoke hearts with marjoram, fettuccine alla papalina and chocolate-covered mustaccioli. This area produces DOC Montecompatri-Colonna wines.

CITY OF WINE CASTELLI ROMANI WINE TRAIL www.comune.colonna.roma.it

Altitude 343 m asl Inhabitants 4,287

97

Patron Saint San Nicola di Bari, December 6th Tourist Information Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II Tel: 06 9473101 Distance from Rome 36 kms

Excursions Itinerary from Marino to Rocca di Papa To discover in the surrounding area Lake Nemi, Lake Albano, Monte Porzio Catone Observatory Nearby Roma, Monte Compatri, Palestrina Environmental attractions Castelli Romani Regional Park Sports Cycling, excursions, trekking

Events Uva Italia Grape Festival, Pincinelle Festival, September Feast of San Nicola di Bari, December

GALLICANO NEL LAZIO T

98

Altitude 214 m asl

Inhabitants 6,334

Patron Saint Sant’Andrea, November 30th

Tourist Information Via Tre Novembre, 7 Tel. 06 95460093 Distance from Rome 37 kms Excursions Walking along the trails in the Aqueduct Park Nearby Palestrina, Zagarolo Environmental attractions Castelli Romani Regional Park Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena, Monastery of the Madonna delle Grazie, Sports Trekking, cycling Events Ciambellone Festival, January Feast of Sant’Andrea, November Camper sites

he town of Gallicano in Lazio, situated between the gorges of two streams and crossed by the arches of the Claudio Aqueduct, sits at the end of a winding road at the top of a tufa terrace. It has very ancient origins and there is much archaeological evidence to be found throughout the area. The town’s foundation is traditionally attributed to the Consul Gallicanus who was martyred in the 4th century A.D., although a curious popular legend tells that the town, attacked by a handful of soldiers, was rescued by the song of a rooster, in homage to which the town was called Gallicano. It is very picturesque with alleyways running off the main street which is flanked by the Maggiore and San Salvatore gates. It is part of the Roman Anio Vetus e Novus, Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia Aqueducts which cross tufa valleys and monumental Roman bridges. >> Not to be missed The Castello di Passerano with corner towers and a fortified entrance dating back to the 10th century and dominating the fairy tale scenario of the surrounding countryside. The Monastery of the Madonna delle Grazie, the Church of Sant’Andrea, the Church of San Rocco and the Church of the Madre di Dio, all of which are worth visiting. >> Curiosity The Sant’Andrea Apostolo Parish Band, under Maestro A. De Lillo and counting some thirty musicians including many locals, was set up in March 1983 and currently performs in Lazio and in neighbouring regions.

GAVIGNANO Y

ou can breathe history and art in the streets of Gavignano which is perched on a small promontory at the confluence of two rivers close to the Monti Lepini. This little gem of a town was a favourite holiday resort for the Romans and it was Julius Caesar’s country residence which was annexed to the Rossilli Benedictine Monastery - Rus Julii, meaning Caesar’s Villa - of which we can still see capitals, architraves, walls in opus reticolatum and mosaics. Gavignano has preserved the urban structure of the castrum with walls, a bastion and charming alleyways. It has a beautiful Baronial Palace and many churches, and local traditions are kept alive thanks to events and festivals.

The Fonte Gabinia or Fonte Meo is a spring with diuretic water rivalling that of Fiuggi.

Altitude 404 m asl Inhabitants 1,916

99

Patron Saint San Rocco, August 16th Tourist Information Via Padre Cerbara, 80 Tel. 06 9703033 Distance from Rome 66 kms Excursions Discovering the castles between Ceccano and Ausonia

>> Not to be missed The Church of Santa Maria Assunta, the Church of San Rocco, the Church of the Calvario on a Greek-cross plan.

The Rossilli Benedictine Abbey, built on the remains of a Roman villa, is now a private property. Also worth mentioning is the Baronial Palace with the Museum of Peasant Civilization featuring ancient arts and ancient crafts, and the Palazzo Traietto, built by the Lords of Anagni. >> Curiosity Gavignano has a “Small Vocabulary of the Ancient Gavignanese Dialect” which refers to the ancient measuring systems, lists proverbs and expressions and many other curiosities.

>> On the table Enjoy local products such as fettuccine ai funghi, tagliata con i carciofi, pasta cacio e pepe and typical Roman dishes like the fried panzerotti alla romana which are filled with ham and cheese. The Roma DOC wine, which is documented to be three thousand years old, and the Zagarolo DOC are both produced in the area.

>> On the table Enjoy the maccaruni, the pork sausages and chicken giblets and don’t miss the gnoccacci dumplings and the melàto pizza made with maize flour and covered with chestnut leaves. Other specialties include ciammelletti scottolati biscuits coated with egg white and the sugarcoated ciammellette ‘nsepotodì made from a secret recipe.

Gavignano is one of the seven municipalities that produce the Monti Lepini Squarquaglione, a soft cheese made from unpasturised sheep’s milk flavoured with honey.

www.gallicanonellazio.rm.gov.it

www.gavignano.rm.gov.it

To discover in the surrounding area Fonte Meo Nearby Segni, Paliano, Anagni, Montelanico Environmental attractions Prenestini and Lepini Mountains, Selva di Paliano e Mola di Piscoli Natural Monument, Gioacchino’s Way Sports Excursions, cycling Events Feast of Sant’Antonio with a horse race, January Feast of San Rocco, August Maccaruni Festival, July / August

GORGA

100

Altitude 766 m asl

Inhabitants 795

Patron Saint San Domenico, August 4th Tourist Information Piazza Mazzini, 5 Tel. 06 9775101 Distance from Rome 78 kms Excursions Rocca Massima Flying in the Sky zip-line To discover in the surrounding area Astronomical Observatory Nearby Carpineto Romano, Montelanico, Anagni, Sgurgola, Morolo, Supino Environmental attractions Monti Lepini Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena, Gioacchino’s Way on the Monti Lepini Sports Cycling, excursions, hang-gliding, paragliding Events Feast of San Domenico, August Trees Festival, November Oil Festival, December

T

his historic town surrounded by greenery overlooks the Sacco Valley from the summit of Mount Volpinara, and is ideal for summer walks and nature lovers. It has breathtaking views and offers the possibility of hiking in the mountains and forests in a part of Lazio with a high density of hypogean karst phenomena. Gorga has always been linked more to the Ciociaria than to the Roman area of which it is a part. In the 11th century it belonged to the Diocese of Anagni as is stated in a 1088 Pope Urban II papal bull. The historic center, which is reached after 14 bends in the road, has preserved its Medieval air with charming alleyways which have maintained the characteristics of the town that welcomed the first inhabitants who were fleeing from malaria and raids. One exception is the Baronial Palace which, under the Doria Pamphilj family in the 17th century was transformed from a defensive fortress into a noble residence. On the slopes of the Lepini there are many remains of Roman villas. The hunting lodge of Pompeius Magnus and Marcus Aurelius in Villamagna later became the Benedictine abbey of San Pietro. >> Not to be missed The splendid fountain called “La Pastorella”, the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and the Church of the Santissima Vergine del Rosario. >> Curiosity The town’s name would appear to originate from the Latin gurges meaning a gorge, a whirlwind, or an impetuous current, perhaps for its breezy alleyways due to the town’s urban layout.

Camper sites

>> On the table Local specialties include dishes with chestnuts, with the PAT marrone segnino which is typical to the area, and chestnut flour. There are excellent cheeses, especially the sheep’s and goat’s ricotta and the Monti Lepini PAT squarquaglione as well as the salamis. Try the fettuccine al cavallino with fried ham and Parmesan cheese, the tripe with pecorino cheese. www.gorga.rm.gov.it

PRIVERNO T

he first historical traces of Priverno date back to the ancient Volschi settlement which clashed with Rome but after, during Roman times, Privernum developed and expanded. The Mezzagosto Archaeological Area not far from the village has revealed - and the discoveries continue - houses, villas with refined mosaic pavements, monumental hydraulic works and spas and even a colossal statue of a seated Tiberius which is now in the Vatican Museum. When Privernum was abandoned it led to the foundation of the Medieval town as we can see it today with the remains of the walls, the historical center crossed by the Via Consolare road with its palaces and churches, the Cathedral and its perfectly preserved portico which are at the top of a staircase and the Town Hall which is the work of builders from Fossanova.

>> Not to be missed The majestic Abbey of Fossanova with the Medieval Museum, the Privernum Archaeological Area, the Churches of San Benedetto and Sant’Antonio and the Church of San Giovanni Evangelista.

Among the examples of civil architecture we find the Palazzo Antonelli and the Villa Gallio di San Martino. >> Curiosity Some scenes of the film “The Life of Leonardo da Vinci,” directed by Renato Castellani, were filmed in Fossanova Abbey. >> On the table Enjoy the Romanesque artichokes which are Lazio IGP and Sezze PAT and try the falia which is a cross between bread and pizza. The area also produces excellent buffalo mozzarella and meat and local dishes include home-made fettuccine, snail and frog soup, lamb and the local ricotta. Among the desserts we find the Priverno PAT ciambelle scottolate donuts which have been prepared for generations using a recipe that has been handed down orally, the giglietti, amaretti, the battered pizzitella fried and seasoned with raisins and honey.

CITY OF BREAD, CITY OF THE BUFFALO www.comune.priverno.latina.it

Altitude 151 m asl

101

Inhabitants 14,525

Patron Saint San Tommaso d’Aquino, March 7th Tourist Information Piazza Giovanni XXIII Tel. 0773 912201 Distance from Rome 110 kms Excursions Lake Fondi Natural Monument, Campo Soriano Natural monument To discover in the surrounding area Fossanova Abbey, Lake Fogliano, Ninfa Gardens Nearby Sonnino, Roccagorga, Maenza, Fondi, Terracina, Sabaudia Environmental attractions Monti Lepini and Ausoni, Circeo National Park Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena, Sanctuary of the Madonna di Mezzagosto Sports Canoeing on the Cavata river, cycling, trekking, water sports Events Feast of San Tommaso d’Aquino, March Procession of the Macchine, Holy Friday Palio del Tributo Festival, August Camper sites

ROCCA DI CAVE T

102

Altitude 933 m asl

Inhabitants 377

Patron Saint Sant’Egidio, September 1st

Tourist Information Piazza Eugenio Maggi, 1 Tel. 06 9584098 Distance from Rome 60 kms Excursions Monti Prenestini, trekking and horseback riding To discover in the surrounding area Sanctuary of the Madonna del Buonconsiglio (Genazzano) Nearby Palestrina, Genazzano, Capranica Prenestina, Cave Environmental attractions Monti Tiburtini e Prenestini Religious itineraries Karol Wojtila Trail, Selva di Paliano e Mola di Piscoli Natural Monument Sports Trekking, cycling Events Ricotta Festival, May Feast of Sant’Egidio Abate, September Castrato grilled mutton Festival, October Chestnut Festival, October / November

his charming historical town is perched on the defensive walls of a look-out tower dating back to the year 1000.

Built by the Benedictine monks, it was the property of the Colonna family from 1100 to the 19th century. The tower, which was perfect for defense, dominates the Sacco river valley and has views as far as the Tyrrhenian Sea. Built on a pre-existing Roman tower with an irregular hexagonal plan and two truncated corner towers, in the centre we find the remains of the ancient Church of San Pietro with a cross-vaulted roof. The Geo-paleontological Museum dedicated to the great geologist Ardito Desio, who in 1954 led the first expedition on the K2, is in the fortress. >> Not to be missed The prestigious Colonna Castle and the Geo-paethological Museum with geo-paethological collections strongly linked to the region. The Museum has an Astronomy Teaching Lab for schools consisting of a planetarium with a six-meter diameter dome, and an opto-digital projector. >> Curiosity The rocks of the town were formed thanks to sand and clay sediments that made up the seabed that disappeared millions of years ago. There are also deposits of shells and the skeletons of a myriad marine organisms the recognition of which makes it possible to date the age of the rocks. Tito, a six-foot titanosaurus that lived about 112 million years ago, was discovered near Rocca di Cava. >> On the table Among the typical dishes we find gnoccacci al sugo di pecora, cannelloni, tagliatelle or tagliolini with porcini mushrooms, polenta, cheeses and walnuts. The main courses include abbaccio allo scottadito, sausages, arrosticini di pecora lamb kebabs and lumache alla romana which are snails. There are also tasty cakes made with Cave’s PAT chestnuts which are the pride of Cave and Rocca di Cave and come from the Prenestini mountains’ chestnut trees many of which are over a hundred years old. www.roccadicave.rm.gov.it

ROCCA MASSIMA T

o get to this town, the highest in the province of Latina, you take a road with endless bends amidst beautiful scenery and with great views towards the Castelli Romani Hills, the Pontina Plain and the sea, and in summer you will delight in the gentle breezes. Rocca Massima was a defensive settlement in Roman times but it was the Anibaldis, who were the lords of the town in the Middle Ages, who added the fortress and the defensive structures. Successive families who ruled the town up to the 19th century did not alter its Medieval character and still today it has old alleyways, narrow stairs between houses, pokey passageways and rustic stone walls.

Altitude 735 m asl

103

Inhabitants 1,136

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September 29th Tourist Information Via del Municipio, 47 Tel. 06 9669001 Distance from Rome 70 kms Excursions From the town to Monte Lupone

>> Not to be missed The Church of San Michele Arcangelo which has been restored many times since the 13th century and has an organ which features in the international summer organ festival. The Memory Park and the the Grotta dell’Angelo d’Oro, a winery-museum that tells a curious local story of thieves, buffoons and ghosts. >> Curiosity “Flying in the sky” is one of Italy’s three zip-lines and consists of the world’s longest flight, the Flight of the Falcon or Flight of the Angel. At 2,213 metres it is the longest zip-line ever built. Attached to a steel cable, the flight is very safe and is pure adrenaline at over 150 km/h with truly stunning views. >> On the table The most popular product of the area is the Gaeta olive, and the local oil is famous for its bouquet, lightness and low acidity. Other excellent local products are the prosciutto, salami and cheese accompanied by preserves and jams.

Among the local dishes try the soups, the trippa alla romana, the porcini mushrooms and the red wine. www.comuneroccamassima.it

To discover in the surrounding area Lake Fogliano, Sermoneta Castle, Ninfa Gardens, Valvisciolo Abbey Nearby Artena, Segni, Cori, Norma Environmental attractions Monti Lepini and Ausoni Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena Sanctuary of the Madonna del Buon Consiglio Sports Water sports, trekking, cycling, zip-line Events Feast of San Michele Arcangelo, September Chestnut Festival, October

ROCCAGORGA S

104

Altitude 289 m asl

Inhabitants 4,591

Patron Saint Sant’Erasmo, June 2nd

Tourist Information Via XXVIII Maggio, 2 Tel. 0773 96081 Distance from Rome 106 kms Excursions Ulivo - Arco hiking trail in the town and the Leccio Eremo di S. Erasmo trail on Mount Semprevisa To discover in the surrounding area Sermoneta Castle, Fossanova Abbey Nearby Carpineto Romano, Sezze, Maenza, Priverno Environmental attractions Monti Lepini and Ausoni Religious itineraries Pilgrimage to the Eremo di Sant’Erasmo hermitage Sports Mountain biking, excursions, trekking Events Feast of Sant’Erasmo, May Goat Meat Festival, August Uva Fragola Grape Festival, October

urrounded by olive groves and wooded hills the charming little town of Rocca Gorga sits on a spur of Monte Nero. The town’s origins date back to the 9th century after the destruction of Privernum by the Saracens, but it reached the peak of its development in the Middle Ages under the Counts of Ceccano. At the highest point of the fortress, which is in a strategic position, they added a solid quadrangular tower from which the townspeople used signals to communicate with the towers of Maenza, Asprano and Monte Acute. The beautiful oval piazza dates back to the 18th century and the Baronial Palace is the result of the 11th century transformation when, from being a military and defensive fortress it became a Baroque residence with a spectacular courtyard with palm trees and orange trees.

ROCCASECCA DEI VOLSCI A rt and beautiful landscapes make Roccasecca dei Volsci a suitable place for lovers of history and nature.

Perched on the side of Mount Curio it is considered the town of panoramic viewpoints. In fact from here you can see the Ausoni, Aurunci and Lepine mountains, the Amaseno Valley, the Circeo promontory and the Pontine Islands.

There are plenty of woods, pastures and many traces of the town’s long history including the ruins of the port on the Amaseno river, ancient villas in nearby Lucerne, churches scattered around the countryside and the Baronial Palace.

At the top of the town stands the small San Raffaele Temple in classic style, an architectural gem built in 1659.

>> Curiosity The Rifolta, built in the middle of the 7th century was an immense elliptical tank built as a water reservoir. In 2000 it was transformed into a large open-air theater.

>> Not to be missed One of the most exceptional monuments is the 17th century Tempietto di Santa Maria della Pace while other interesting monuments include the Tempietto di San Raffaele (1659) with frescoes by the Dominican school, and the Monastero di San Salvatore.

>> Curiosity The Ethno-anthropological Museum (formerly the 17th century Palazzo Massimo oil and wine press), enhances the historical center of Roccasecca dei Volsci by bringing to light its ancient crafts. The rooms contain an exhibition of artifacts, tools and other documents related to the peasant, pastoral and artisan civilization.

>> On the table Various local products including the Colline Pontine DOP extra virgin olive oil for which two kinds of olives, the Itrana and the Leccino are pressed, and the wine, which is mostly white, made from Ottonese grapes. The lacne con fagioli (pasta similar to maltagliati with beans), bread soup, beans and pappagacornuti are all worth trying. Other traditional dishes are egg pasta topped with a chicken entrails sauce and the capra in umido goat stew, PAT olives calce e cenere e al fumo, which are exclusive to this part of the Monti Lepini, and tasty ciambelle all’acqua donuts.

>> On the table Typical products include the Colline Pontine DOP extra virgin olive oil, olives and buffalo cheeses – Campana DOP buffalo mozzarella and ricotta – and goats and lambs are bred in the area. Among the many traditional dishes we find bean soup with pork rind, polenta with pork and broccoli, cecapreti made with flour and water, minestra marinata which is an excellent vegetable soup, stracchi pasta with ragù and pecorino cheese, and canescione, a typical bread dough stuffed with ricotta.

www.comuneroccagorga.it

www.comune.roccaseccadeivolsci.it

>> Not to be missed The Church of the Madonna dell’Annunziata, the Fontana del Mascherone, the Rifolta and the Monti Lepini Ethnological Museum in the beautiful Baronial Palace, organized to enhance the cultural heritage and traditions of the Lepini communities.

Altitude 376 m asl

105

Inhabitants 1,146

Patron Saint San Massimo, the third Sunday of August Tourist Information Piazza Umberto I, 9 Tel. 0773 920326 Distance from Rome 113 kms

Excursions Monte Arto di Pisterzo, Monte delle Fate, Monte Curio To discover in the surrounding area Ruins of the Monastery of San Salvatore di Mileto (823 mt.)

Nearby Prossedi, Amaseno, Sonnino, Priverno Environmental attractions Monti Lepini and Ausoni, Campo Soriano Natural Monument Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena, Gioacchino’s Way on the Monti Lepini Sports Hang-gliding, paragliding, cycling, excursions, trekking Events Feast of San Massimo and Goat Festival, August Caciottelle Cheese Festival, September

FILETTINO

GUARCINO

FIUGGI

CAMPOLI APPENNINO POSTE FIBRENO

ZAGAROLO T

106

Altitude 303 m asl

Inhabitants 17,843

Patron Saint San Lorenzo, August 10th Tourist Information Piazza G. Marconi, 2 Tel. 06 95769001 Distance from Rome 36 kms Excursions Vineyard itineraries To discover in the surrounding area Prenestina Archaeological National Museum, Acque Albule thermal waters in Villa d’Este Nearby Monte Compatri, Palestrina, Gallicano nel Lazio, Genazzano Environmental attractions Castelli Romani, Monti Prenestini, Selva di Paliano and Mola di Piscoli Natural Monument Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena, Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie Sports Cycling Events Tordo Matto Horsemeat Festival, June Feast of San Lorenzo, August Grape and Typical Local Wines Festival, October

his town stands on a two-kilometre tufa hill, surrounded by green forests in a pristine natural setting. The etymology of the name Zagarolo would seem to derive from sagum, the red cape worn by the Roman legionnaires. Legend has it that there was once a settlement here where the exiles from Gabi sought refuge when the town was destroyed by Tarquinio the Superbo. The old town centre has Medieval origins, with the regular urban fabric dominated by the 16th century Palazzo Rospigliosi. In the Sixties Elvina Pallavicini transformed the original defensive fortress into a princely residence; a remarkable restoration that brought the palace back to its ancient splendour. The Toy Musuem, with every kind of toy and game, is in the rooms of the Palazzo from which there are wonderful views. >> Not to be missed Among the most interesting buildings we find the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Palazzo del Gonfaloniere, the Collegiata di San Lorenzo in Vignola style, the Parrocchiale San Pietro Apostolo parish church and there is a Fountain with a Roman bath in Piazza Santa Maria. The ancient scales with the measures used in the municipality guarded by a bust known as’ Lu Giustu’, the honest one - can be seen on Via Fabrini near the Town Hall. >> Curiosity Zagarolo hosts a prestigious polyphonic choral singing competition and is home to the Goffredo Petrassi Youth Orchestra. >> On the table Here we are in the land of the Zagarolo PAT tordo matto, a horsemeat roll seasoned with pitartima coriander, and of the DOC Zagarolo, a typical Castelli Romani white wine linked to the tradition of the “fraschette,” wine shops that used let travellers know they could find the new local wines there. The DOC Castelli Romani and Montecompatri Colonna are also excellent local wines.

CITY OF WINE CASTELLI ROMANI WINE TRAIL www.zagarolo.rm.gov.it

ALVITO

ISOLA DEL LIRI

FERENTINO

ROCCASECCA CASTRO DEI VOLSCI AMASENO VALLECORSA

CASTROCIELO AQUINO

PICO ESPERIA AUSONIA

CIOCIARIA WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO TASTE

WHAT TO DO

>> Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park

>> Alvito nougat

>> Southern Via Francigena

>> Monti Simbruini Regional Natural Park

>> Vallecorsa olive oil

>> Capo d’Acqua and the Vallone Lacerno Canyon

>> Buffalo mozzarella

>> Castro dei Volsci Castrese sausage >> Ciociara PAT ratafià

>> Trekking in the Monti Aurunci and on Monte Fammera >> Benedetto’s Way >> Excursions to the Falvaterra Grottos

>> Lake Posta Fibreno Nature Reserve

>> Guarcino amaretti biscuits and prosciutto

>> Filettino, Pertuso Spring

>> Pontecorvo DOP peppers

>> Terme di Fiuggi and Terme Pompeo di Ferentino

>> Campoli Appennino truffles

>> Filettino, Polenta Festival (December)

>> Monte Rotondo and Monte delle Fate >> Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi Regional Natural Park >> Monti Aurunci Natural Park >> Lake Canterno Nature Reserve >> Monte Cairo and the Vallone Park >> Pico, Tommaso Landolfi Literary Park >> Isola del Liri waterfalls

>> Cesanese del Piglio DOCG wine, Reale white and Olivello Rosso di Esperia >> Roccasecca puffs

>> Campostaffi and Campocatino (ski resorts)

ALVITO

108

Altitude 475 m.asl

Inhabitants 2,713

Patron Saint San Valerio, the Tuesday after Pentecost Tourist Information Piazza Marconi, 1 Tel. 0776 510101 Distance from Rome 130 kms Excursions From the town to the castle To discover in the surrounding area Abbey of Montecassino, Maiura Trench, and the ghost towns

Nearby Atina, Casalvieri, Pescasseroli, Gallinaro, San Donato Val di Comino, Campoli Appennino, Posta Fibreno, Vicalvi Environmental attractions Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena Sports Trekking, mountain biking, horseback riding, hang-gliding, paragliding Events Feast of San Valerio, Pentecost Festival of the Stories, August Val di Comino Literary Prize, October Camper sites

T

his charming Medieval town, overlooking the Comino Valley, is on the slopes of Monte Marrone. On three levels, and with the characteristic horseshoe layout, for seven centuries it was the most important town in the valley. In the 10th century it was a Benedictine possession then, in the Middle Ages it belonged to the Counts of Aquino, and later to the Gallios. It has a beautiful historical centre with many handsome buildings such as the Ducal Palace, with the famous Court Theater which is decorated with frescoes and stuccowork, and the Council Room with paintings from the 18th century Neapolitan school. At the top of the Castello hamlet stands the Cantelmo Fortress, now reduced to a picturesque ruin, from which there are breathtaking views. >> Not to be missed The walls and gateways to the city, the Church of Santa Maria del Campo with its 14th century frescoes, Palazzo Panicali with its two dove towers, Palazzo Sipari which has frescoed ceilings and a library containing over 2,000 volumes, the Churchs of Santa Teresa, San Rocco, San Simeone Profeta and the Convent of San Nicola. >> Curiosity Take time to visit the famous ghost towns in the area, the ancient villages of Curtignale and Cappudine which were abandoned over 400 years ago, and also worthy of note is the Maiura Trench, a karst depression about one hundred meters deep. >> On the table Try the typical pan’amoll‘, sagne with beans, and polenta with pork ribs. Among the desserts are caciate, and over the Christmas period you can find the famous Alvito nougat which is made of marzipan with almonds and hazelnuts. Alvito cultivates various Atina Doc vines, from which it produces the famous Cabernet wine. www.comune.alvito.fr.it

AMASENO T

his charming 9th century town in the center of a fertile valley with a clear river that bears its name,is surrounded by the forests of the Ausoni and Lepini mountains, green pastures and white rockfaces. The town is famous for having over 30 freshwater springs, and for its buffalo farms. The historic center, surrounded by turreted walls with five gates, is a maze of alleyways with fine portals, mullioned windows and noble coats of arms, at the end of which there are the churches of Santa Maria and San Pietro e Paolo, while the imposing Rocca Castri proudly stands on the highest part of the hill. The Collegiate Santa Maria Assunta, a Cistercian Church dating back to 1177, is on the Piazza della Vittoria square and is a national monument with countless art treasures, including the 12th century stone pulpit by G. Pisano, and a precious relic: Il Sangue di San Lorenzo, the blood of the martyr which liquifies on the saint’s feast day. >> Not to be missed The charming Auricola Sanctuary with splendid frescoes; the ruins of the Church of Sant’Angelo, the Sant’Aneglio Bridge built in 314 B.C., and the Church of San Rocco. In the Church of the Annunziata, the Friends of the Crib group make a famous animated crib every year. >> Curiosity The Amaseno Marching Band, a local American-style band, which has received many international awards, has a varied repertoire and also dabbles in Jazz, Rock and Latin-American music. >> On the table Exquisite 100% buffalo mozzarella, as well as ricotta, caciocavalli, caciottine of buffalo milk, typical meat dishes and buffalo derivatives such as buffalo stew cooked in wine. Extra virgin olive oil, olives and marzolina goat cheese are other typical products.

BUFFALO MOZZARELLA TRAIL www.comune.amaseno.net

Altitude 112 m. asl

109

Inhabitants 4,368

Patron Saint San Lorenzo, August 10th

Tourist Information Via Guglielmo Marconi, 1 Tel. 0775 65021 Distance from Rome 112 kms Excursions Point to Point Monte Calvo: walking itinerary (46 kms), or cycling (32kms) To discover in the surrounding area Pastena Grottos, Fossanova Abbey Nearby Castro dei Volsci, Vallecorsa, Lenda, Villa Santo Stefano, Priverno, Sonnino Environmental attractions Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi Natural Regional Park, Monti Lepini Religious itineraries Pilgrimage to Maria Santissima in Monte delle Fate Sports Trekking, mountain biking, horseback riding Events I Love Bufala Fair, July Feast of San Lorenzo, Gente Nostra, Sapori Lasciati Fair, August Camper sites

AQUINO

110

Altitude 109 m. asl

Inhabitants 5,370

Patron Saint San Tommaso d’Aquino, March 7th San Costanzo, September 1st Tourist Information Piazza Municipio Tel. 0776 728003 Distance from Rome 123 kms Excursions Forty-four hiking trails around Monte Cairo and the Melfa Gorges To discover in the surrounding area Montecassino Abbey, Pastena Grottos Nearby Roccasecca, Pontecorvo, Piedimonte San Germano, Castrocielo, Villa Santa Lucia, Pignataro Interamna Environmental attractions Monte Cairo, Vallone Park Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena Sports Trekking, mountain biking, horseback riding

Events Feast of San Tommaso, March Festival of “Abbottapezzent,” August Aquino County Palio, September Camper sites

T

his ancient town between the Liri River valley and the slopes of Monte Cairo, was considered the most important between Rome and Capua, being home to a Volsco settlement which in 39 B.C. became a Roman colony. Today it delights us with evidence of its illustrious past, and any visit to the town can not but start from the remains of the Roman walls and the Ancient Theater of Aquinum, ending with the old Roman baths, the Capitolium, and the Porta Romana, called the San Lorenzo Gate. The 9th century Romanesque Church of Santa Maria della Libera, which is a national monument, was built on the ruins of the Temple of Ercole Liberatore.

In its gardens there is one of the oldest arches in Italy, the Marcantonio Arch, (1st century A.D.). To enjoy the town’s natural attractions take a walk in the Parco del Vallone to the old settlement where you can visit St. Thomas Aquinas’ House with its large tower. Aquinas was born into the noble family of the D’Aquino counts and, as well as being a man of the church, was also a satirical poet.

>> Not to be missed The Museo della Città and the imposing co-cathedral of San Costanzo Vescovo and San Tommaso Aquino with the famous “Costola del Cuore” relic and the great Centennial Mosaic. >> Curiosity On the top step of the stairway up to the Church of Santa Maria della Libera there are tabulae lusoriae engraved in the marble. They were a kind of chessboard used by the Romans for playing the ancient board game of Filetto. >> On the table Enjoy traditional abbottapezzent, a typical fresh pasta with beans enriched with pork rinds and cheese; the patan ‘agl’ ort, a dish made of potatoes and liver sausage; the pine cone, a leavened cake similar to a panettone with raisins, candied fruit, vanilla, cinnamon, aniseed and a hint of liquor. www.comune.aquino.fr.it

AUSONIA P

erched in a strategic position on top of a hill this small Medieval town has many artistic attractions. Looking down from its castle on one side you can see the Abbey of Montecassino and, on the other, the sea and the Gulf of Gaeta. The old centre has many 18th century palaces adorned with beautiful portals, mullioned windows, spiral columns and Moorish-style frames. The church of San Michele Arcangelo is on the highest point in the town and was built on an old temple dedicated to the worship of Hercules. It is in white stone and is the town’s oldest monument (12th13th centuries). Ausonia’s most precious gem is the Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Piano in the valley below the town, consisting of a crypt and an Upper Church dating back to the 15th century. In the crypt there is a cycle of frescoes dedicated to Santa Remicarda. >> Not to be missed The Church of the Madonna di Correano, the Church of Santa Maria in Castello, the historic center and the Medieval castle built by the Princes of Capua with a beautiful clock tower, now the Museum of Stone. The Pineta Selva Cava, with attractive picnic areas and a jogging path, is particularly appealing. >> Curiosity Ausonia is one of the most famous towns in Lazio and in Italy for marble and produces a unique pearly royal variety. >> On the table Don’t miss the delicious laine i ciciri, a type of fresh pasta served with a tasty chickpea sauce. The marzolina is a spicy soft goat cheese with a very intense flavour and is also execellent, and there is an annual Marzolino Festival.

LAND OF SAN BENEDETTO www.comune.ausonia.fr.it

Altitude 178 m. asl

111

Inhabitants 2,619

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September 29th Tourist Information Piazza Municipio, 1 Tel. 0776 952021 Distance from Rome 146 kms Excursions Hiking in the Monti Aurunci and on Mount Fammera To discover in the surrounding area Monte Maio, Montecassino Abbey Nearby Esperia, Spigno Saturnia, Coreno Ausonio, Castelnuovo, Parano, Scauri, Minturno, Maranola

Environmental attractions Monti Aurunci Natural Park, Ausente river Religious itineraries Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Piano Sports Trekking, mountain biking, birdwatching Events Laina e Ceci Festival, August Marzolina Festival, June Feast of San Michele Arcangelo, September Camper sites

CAMPOLI APPENNINO E

112

Altitude 650 m. asl

Inhabitants 1,725

Patron Saint San Pancrazio, May 12th Tourist Information Piazza Umberto I Tel. 0776 1790070 Distance from Rome 140 kms Excursions Trails from Capo d’Acqua and in the Vallone Lacerno canyon

To discover in the surrounding area Lake Fibreno, Isola del Liri waterfalls Nearby Alvito, Broccostella, Opi, Pescasseroli, Pescosolido, Posta Fibreno, Sora Environmental attractions Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise National Park, Micciola and Matura sinkholes Religious itineraries Pilgrimage to San Pancrazio and the Madonna di Canneto Sports Trekking, mountain biking, climbing, fishing, horseback riding Events Feast of San Pancrazio, May Truffle Festivals, June and November Camper sites

ncircling a vast hollow called the Tomolo we find this pretty town which is sheltered by the Apennines. On its difficult terrain which has many cliffs, there are Roman remains and the old walls, as well as picturesque streets in the old town that reveal its Medieval origins, symbolized by the majestic 9th century tower. Not far from the Town Hall we find the beautiful 18th century Church of Sant‘Andrea Apostolo, with elaborate decorations and paintings and the San Gaspare del Bufalo chapel. On the slopes of the San Pancrazio hill, in the hamlet of Carpello, there is an old water mill, some remains of a Roman villa and a Medieval guard tower. Known as the City of Bears and Truffles, it is much loved by hikers and foodies who set out from here to discover the wonders of the Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise National Park, or to search for the typical truffles in the local forests, for which the town is famous the world over. >> Not to be missed The beautiful Church of Santa Maria Rubiconda, the Acquedotto di Nerone, the Hill, and the 1594 Church of San Pancrazio which contains a wooden statue by the sculptor Francesco Verzella (1804). >> Curiosity Two Marsica bears, Jill and Abel, live below the village in partial freedom on 15 hectares of forest in a wildlife area dedicated to this species. >> On the table The famous truffles of Campoli Appennino are the local specialty and are served with fettucine. In the area you can find the intense and fragrant black truffle and also the white truffle which is quite rare and has a delicate flavour. The area also produces an excellent local honey, and marzolina, a tasty goat cheese.

CASTRO DEI VOLSCI T

his town’s center in the valley of the Sacco river is known as the Balcony of Ciociaria, thanks to its viewpoint from which there are exceptionally beautiful panoramic vistas. In the town there are many mysterious symbols carved in stone, such as the triple walls or golgotà which suggest that the Knights Templar passed through this area. Through the main entrance on the Via Porta della Valle, with its Medieval tower and gatekeepers’ rooms, you come to a lancet arch leading to the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria, which is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception and has a distinctive stone bell tower. In Montenero you can see the walls of the first human settlement in the castrese area, dating back to the 6th century B.C.

>> Not to be missed The interesting Church of Sant’Oliva, the Church of San Nicola, the Monumental Fountain and the monument to Mamma Ciociaria. The archaeological area and the Civic Museum of Santa Maria del Piano are also of particular interest. >> Curiosity Nino Manfredi (1921-2004) the director, singer and actor, was born in Castro dei Volsci. The Clock Tower is now a multifunctional centre with a permanent exhibition dedicated to the popular artist. >> On the table The famous fettuccine with gravy or lkena, from lakanaro the local word for rolling pin, and the castrese sausage. The area also produces excellent honey and delicious Doc buffalo mozzarella, local bacon, ham, black pudding and capillini and cilindri which are made from the large intestine of the pig. The best cheese is the marzellina which is made from goat or sheep milk. Try the bread soup and the pasta and bean soup with recchie d’asino, so called for the pasta which is shaped like a donkey’s ear.

CITY OF TRUFFLES www.comune.campoliappennino.fr.it

BUFFALO TRAIL www.comune.castrodeivolsci.fr.it

Altitude 385 m. asl

113

Inhabitants 5,040

Patron Saint Sant’Oliva, June 3rd Tourist Information Piazza IV Novembre Tel. 0775 662008 Distance from Rome 117 kms Excursions Falvaterra Grottos, Pastena Grottos To discover in the surrounding area Pastena Grottos, San Magno Abbey Nearby Ceccano, Villa Santo Stefano, Amaseno, Vallecorsa, Lenola, Falvaterra, Ceprano, Pofi Environmental attractions Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano Sports Canyoning, caving, hiking Events Feast of Sant’Oliva, June Concone Palio, July Festival of Local Products, August Camper sites

CASTROCIELO T

114

Altitude 250 m. asl

Inhabitants 3,965

Patron Saint Santa Lucia, December 13th

Tourist Information Via Roma, 44 Tel. 0776 79001 Distance from Rome 125 kms Excursions Forty-four trails on Mount Cairo, the Gustav Line, Monte Asprano To discover in the surrounding area Montecassino Abbey, Liri Valley, Pastena Grottos Nearby Colle San Magno, Roccasecca, Pontecorvo, Piedimonte San Germano, Aquino Environmental attractions Monti Aurunci Natural Park, Lake Capo d’Acqua Religious itineraries Abbey Trail, Benedetto’s Way Sports Trekking, hang-gliding, mountain biking, climbing, fishing, canyoning, horseback riding Events Palio of the Districts, August Feast of Saint Lucia, December

his ancient town is in the shadow of Monte Cairo on the summit of which once stood the castle which is now in ruins, and from which the town got its name. Built “where the earth met the sky,” this peaceful place is ideal for walking and is full of spirituality. In fact it was here that both San Benedetto and San Tommaso lived. Castrum Coeli was founded in 996 by the Abbot Mansone, but was soon abandoned due to drought. Today the town is much closer to the valley, and is nicely nestled into the mountainside. The picturesque old town centre, around the16th century Church of Santa Lucia, is a charming maze of narrow streets, squares and ancient houses, with many picturesque features that wind up to the Romanesque Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, which is at the foot of the fortified tower on Mount Asprano. >> Not to be missed The remarkable excavations of the Roman city of Aquinum, in particular the amphitheater, the capitolium and the temple dedicated to Cerere Elvina. There are traces of the ancient paving of the Via Latina at the Porta Capuana gate and, in the hamlet of Villa Euchelia, the Moncato of the Benedictine nuns of Santa Maria in Palazzolo and the Church of Santa Maria dei Sette Dolori. >> Curiosity The Kiss of the Madonnas is a traditional procession in which a statue of the Virgin is carried to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta on Monte Asprano. The ceremony ends with the meeting of the Madonnas of Castrocielo and Colle San Magno, culminating with a kiss between the two statues and a ceremonial bow. >> On the table The fini fini pasta with chicken giblet sauce and the sagne and beans soup are excellent. The Pontecorvo DOP pepper that grows locally is served bittersweet on toasted bread. The pecorino, ricotta and mozzarella di bufala are also good and the Easter pigna is a panettone with raisins, candied fruit, vanilla, cinnamon and aniseed. www.comune.castrocielo.fr.it

ESPERIA E

speria is set in a charming rocky landscape covered with lush vegetation on the slopes of Mount Cecubo, dominated for centuries by the Rocca Guglielma fortress, not far from the Gorges of Pollèca. Here the visitor can enjoy fabulous views of the Abbey of Montecassino and the Liri Valley that stretches to the Tyrrhenian Sea. The area is one of the most beautiful in the Ciociaria region and is ideal for relaxing walks and excursions. The town of Esperia Superiore, at the foot of the Medieval fortress, is surrounded by woods and olive groves with the little hamlets of Badia di Esperia, Monticelli and San Pietro in Curolis. The 14th century Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie is one of the gems of the historical center where we also find Palazzo Spinelli, now the Karst Museum. The Sanctuary of Santa Maria Maggiore e San Filippo Neri is also interesting for its altarpiece attributed to Taddeo Zuccari. >> Not to be missed The 10th century Church of San Pietro Apostolo with paintings of the Neapolitan school, the Porta del Morrone gate, the Palazzo of Santa Scolastica, the ruins of the San Cimo Monastery. >> Curiosity The Esperia pony is the Ciociaria’s only autoctonous pony. In 1962 it was officially recognized as a breed and thirty years later was registered at the Provincial Breeders Association of Frosinone. >> On the table Pontecorvo DOP peppers, olive oil and the local Reale white wine and Royal Olivello red wine, a descendant of caecubum, the ancient Romans’ favourite wine which was mentioned by Horace. Try Esperia’s excellent marzolina cheese, the mazzuttegl or gnocchi, laina and beans, ciammaruche (snails), bread with olives, spicy pecorino cheese with mint, and the sweet donuts.

LAND OF SAN BENEDETTO www.comune.esperia.fr.it

Altitude 310 m. asl

115

Inhabitants 3,828

Patron Saint San Clino, June 3rd Tourist Information Viale Vittorio Veneto, 5 Tel. 0776 937612 Distance from Rome 137 kms Excursions Trails of the Gustav Line, Rio Polleca Gorges, Monte Fàmmera, Grava dei Serini To discover in the surrounding area Montecassino Abbey, Nearby Pontecorvo, Formia, Spigno Saturnia, Coreno, Ausonia, Castelnuovo Parano, San Giorgio a Liri, Pignataro Interamna Environmental attractions Monti Aurunci Natural Park Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie Sports Trekking, canyoning, horseback riding Events San Clino Fair, May Degl ‘Mazzuttegl’ Festival, July Monticelli Wine Festival, Marzolino and Olive Festival, August Camper sites

FERENTINO F

116

Altitude 395 m. asl

Inhabitants 21,213

Patron Saint Sant’Ambrogio, th 30 April to May 1st Tourist Information Piazza Matteotti, 17 Tel. 0775 2481 Distance from Rome 76 kms Excursions Lake Canterno To discover in the surrounding area Terme di Pompeo spa, Pastena Grottos, Holy Stairs of Veroli Nearby Fiuggi, Trivigliano, Alatri, Fumone, Supino, Morolo, Sgurgola, Anagni, Acuto Environmental attractions Monti Ernici, Lake Canterno Nature Reserve Religious itineraries Monastery of Sant’Antonio Abate, Southern Via Francigena Sports Trekking, cycling, excursions Events Polentata of Sant’Antonio Festival, January Feast of Sant’Ambrogio, April / May Palio of San Celestino, September Camper sites

erentino stands on a hill in the Ernici mountains with beautiful views in an area that has springs and beautiful spas. The medieval fortress is still considered a masterpiece of civil engineering and is an evocative masterpiece.

Walking through the town you can admire the well-preserved city walls, the Acropolis, the Porta Sanguinaria which is the town’s most famous gate - called bloody as those sentenced to death had to pass under it to reach the site of their execution - and the double-arched Porta Casamari gate. The town abounds in art and history and has numerous monuments and churches. In imperial days it was the most popular resort town with the Roman nobility who were attracted by its handy location, climate, beautiful villas, springs and the theatre which is 54 metres in diameter and took up to 3,500 spectators. The Roman Market, which is accessed through an eight-metre tall arch, is paved with opus incertum and covered with barrel vaults, and is perfectly preserved and still in use today.

>> Not to be missed The historical Acropolis of Ferentino with the Cathedral of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, the bishopric and the seminary. Also of interest is the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, founded by Cistercian monks, and the tomb of Aulus Quintilio Prisco which is hewn out of solid rock.

FILETTINO F

ilettino, at 1,075 meters, is the highest town in Lazio and commands a panoramic position between Monte Viglio and Monte Cotento in the Simbruini Mountains Regional Park. The village was probably founded in the 6th century by the southern Lazio populations who were fleeing from the Barbarian invasions. This part of the town’s story is told by the remains of the Saracen walls, and the presence of several churches in the area, including San Bernardino and San Nicola, with frescoes dating back to 1220. This is a very interesting natural area with the source of the Aniene river, forests of fir, birch, beech and oak, and the lake “del Pertuso.” The town offers visitors one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the region, with huge valleys, mountains soaring to over two thousand meters, and landscapes ranging from the Gran Sasso range to the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is very popular with skiers thanks to the modern facilities at Campo Staffi.

117

Altitude 1,075 m. asl

Inhabitants 565

Patron Saint San Bernardino da Siena, May 20th Tourist Information Largo Filetico, 21 Tel. 0775 581832 Distance from Rome 105 kms Excursions Trails in the Monti Simbruini Regional Park To discover in the surrounding area Subiaco archaeological area Nearby Capistrello, Civitella Roveto, Trevi nel Lazio, Vallepietra, Fiuggi, Subiaco

>> Not to be missed Of particular interest are the Church of San Nicola, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, the Caraffa Fountain, which is the source of the Aniene river, the Grotta della neve e dei saltari grotto, and the Maresciallo Rodolfo Graziani Civic Museum.

>> Curiosity The Terme di Pompeo spa is in an old park known since Roman times, and is said to have been built by Domitilla a native of Ferentino who was the wife of Vespasian.

>> Curiosity The Pertuso Spring is five kilometers from Fiumata, at a point where rocks turn the Aniene’s course into a gorge.

This creek has formed an artificial lake which is considered a paradise by trout-fishing enthusiasts.

>> On the table Local specialties include pallocchi cull’erua, a typical pasta with vegetables, baked pantufu and hand-made dumplings and noodles. The pizza alla tiglia, especially with the ricotta, is delicious and so are the bread soup, the almond biscuits, Carnival struffoli and pangiallo.

>> On the table Delicious ricotta and pecorino cheese, Aniene river trout and manduluni, stewed beans with sausages. The area also produces excellent red, yellow and white potatoes, cherries and hazelnuts. Typical dishes are polenta with pork ribs and pizza with sfrizzoli which are pressed cakes of fatty pork.

www.comune.ferentino.fr.it

www.comunefilettino.it

Environmental attractions Lake Canterno Nature Reserve Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Trinità in Vallepietra Sports Trekking, cycling, excursions, skiing, free climbing, fishing Events Feast of San Bernardino da Siena, May Polenta Festival, December Camper sites

FIUGGI

118

Altitude 747 m. asl

Inhabitants 10,536

Patron Saint San Biagio, February 3rd

Tourist Information Piazza Trento e Trieste Tel. 0775 546111 Distance from Rome 89 kms Excursions Fiuggi-Paliano cycle path, Campo Catino trail To discover in the surrounding area Serrone, Campo Staffi, Collepardo Grottos Nearby Anagni, Fumone, Trevi nel Lazio, Acuto, Torre Cajetani, Guarcino, Trivigliano, Ferentino Environmental attractions Lake Canterno Nature Reserve, Monti Simbruini Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Madonna della Stella Sports Cycling, excursions skiing, trekking, golf, tennis, swimming, archery, mountain biking Events Stuzze Festival, Feast of San Biagio, February Camper sites

T

he upper part of Fiuggi, set in dense chestnut forests on the Ernici mountains, encompasses the old Medieval village and has some towers, defensive walls, steep alleys, stairways and narrow squares.

In the San Biagio Martire church there are priceless works of art including a painting of the Cavalier d’Arpino, a holy water font with a Romanesque capital and a fresco of the Virgin and Child. The waters of the town have a low mineral content. They are effective for detoxifying treatments and indicated in the treatment of kidney ailments and gout. In the Middle Ages Fiuggi became famous as Pope Bonifacio VIII visited regularly to treat his kidney stones, and in 1549 Michelangelo came here also to treat his kidneys. Today this spa town is an ideal place not only for health treatments, but also to enjoy a relaxing holiday and discover the area’s many cultural attractions. >> Not to be missed The charming Medieval town, the Collegiate Church of San Pietro and the Church of Santa Chiara, with the monument to the Faioli Sisters. There is also some handsome civil architecture like the Bonifacio VIII Spring, Palazzo Falconi and the Palazzo della Fonte. >> Curiosity The Stuzze Festival is a tribute to the 1298 legend, and held every year on February 2nd, when large bonfires are set alight to commemorate the burning of San Biagio who saved the village from attack. >> On the table Among the specialties we find pappafuocchie and all kinds of fish dishes with trout, freshwater prawns, eels and fried sticklebacks. Among the meats we recommend the roast kid, grilled lamb and pork liver sausage. Also try the marzoline and other sheep and goat cheeses, and do not miss the famous Cesanese Piglio, a DOC wine produced in the area. www.comune.fiuggi.fr.it

GUARCINO T

his delightful town in the Ernici mountains dates back to the 8th century B.C. and was once the ancient Vercenum, an important town in the Aniene Valley. It is an excellent starting point for every type of excursion and has many rivers. In Roman times it had temples which, with the advent of Christianity, were replaced by the churches dedicated to the Madonna and to San Michele Arcangelo. The area is of great natural importance due to the presence of the majestic Campo Catino mountains. The Medieval town, the walls of which have nine towers and three defensive towers, four gates and a moat, is dominated by the great Gothic arch that buttresses the ancient palace of Cardinal Tomassi. The old town centre has many Medieval portals, mullioned windows, stone walls and the Filette Spring, which is popular for its curative waters.

The famous Guarcino Paper Mill, which manufactures and exports paper for flooring, office and home décor, produces some 50 thousand tons of paper a year.

>> Not to be missed The historical Church of San Michele Arcangelo which, in 1587, was taken over to house the Benedictine nuns in the adjacent Palace Patrasso. The old centre is also interesting with its bell towers, which are unique in the Lazio region, Palazzo Tomassi and the Medieval town. >> Curiosity Monte Vermicano is famous for its chasm, one of the largest grottos in Lazio with four entrances. In 1973 a team reached the bottom, and today it is a favourite with cavers from all over Italy. >> On the table The abbotti are tripe rolls stuffed with bacon, celery, carrots, parsley and garlic and are served with the local sagne and bean soup, the gnocchi alla montanara and with lamb sauce.

The local DOP prosciutto, amaretti biscuits and Cesanese del Piglio DOCG wine are all also excellent. www.comune.guarcino.fr.it

Altitude 625 m. asl

119

Inhabitants 1,623

Patron Saint Sant’Agnello, December 14th Tourist Information Via Alfonso Milani, 1 Tel. 0775 46007

Distance from Rome 97 kms Excursions Mount Vermicano Abyss, Campo Catino trail To discover in the surrounding area Lake Canterno, Terme di Fiuggi spa, Lake Posta Fibreno, Collepardo Grottos Nearby Vico nel Lazio, Alatri, Trivigliano, Torre Cajetani, Trevi nel Lazio, Filettino Environmental attractions Monti Ernici Religious itineraries Sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve, Benedetto’s Way Sports Excursions, skiing, trekking, fishing, swimming, mountain biking, riding Events Prosciutto and Amaretto Festival, July Potato and Abboti Festival, August Lamb Festival, December

ISOLA DEL LIRI T

120

Altitude 217 m. asl

Inhabitants 11,715

Patron Saint Madonna di Loreto, December 10th Tourist Information Via San Giuseppe, 1 Tel. 0776 80081 Distance from Rome 112 kms Excursions Fregellae and the Archaeological Park To discover in the surrounding area Sermoneta, Casamari Abbey, Certosa di Trisulti, Montecassino Abbey

his town was formerly inhabited by the Volsci and was conquered by the Romans in 305 B.C. thanks to its strategic position.

Its story is closely linked to the Liri River, which is famous for its large 30-metre high waterfall. The river divides into two, embracing the houses in the town and forming the small Valcatoio waterfall which descends along the rocky walls of the western part of the town, with the large waterfall at its heart.

Isola del Liri is important for the production of paper and its derivatives, and has many Medieval buildings at the foot of the large waterfall, while above it stands the Medieval Boncompagni-Viscogliosi Castle. Northwest of the town there are the ruins of a tower dedicated to the nymph Marica which has gorgeous views over the town and the entire valley. >> Not to be missed Among the historic buildings, we suggest the Boncompagni Viscogliosi Castle and Park, the Church of San Lorenzo Martire and the Gothic Church of Santa Maria delle Forme. Also interesting is the Museum of the Civilization of Paper and Telecommunications.

Nearby Sora, Castelliri, Arpino Environmental attractions Lake Posta Fibreno, Liri Valley Religious itineraries Monastery of San Domenico, Benedetto’s Way, Southern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, skiroll, paragliding, golf, horseback riding Events Chicken and Peppers Festival, July Lamb and Fried Pizza Festival, August Gnocchi Festival, August / September Feast of the Madonna di Loreto, December

PICO I

n Pico art and nature embrace the visitor on a journey through Medieval history. Perched on a hill overlooking Monte Pota, Pico owes its name to the Celtic root pic meaning a sharp point, perhaps for the spur on which the castle stands. The town, set in the Monti Aurunci Natural Park is the headquarters of the Ausoni Mountain Community.

The early town developed around the walls of the castle, built by Giovanni Scinto Lord of Aquino, with the San Rocco Gate and the Church of Santa Marina. The alleys and streets of the town are particularly appealing, as are the rural and mountain areas in the surrounds, with the Church of Santa Maria del Campo. Also interesting the old town centre with the remains of the Medieval walls and towers. The town also has a park called the Tommaso Landolfi Literary Park. The writer liked to refer to it as the “Town of P” in his novels, and Landolfi is commemorated with information boards. >> Not to be missed A visit to the old town, the Farnese Castle, the Tommaso Landolfi Literary Park, the Church of Sant’Antonino and the Landolfi House with its garden.

>> Curiosity Isola del Liri appears in many 1830 paintings by Bidauld and Fries as the “Big Waterfall,” and as the “Valcatoio Waterfall” in a 1936 work by Carelli.

>> Curiosity The Pico Automotive Rally every year attracts enthusiasts from all over Italy.

>> On the table Local specialties include potato gnocchi, fettuccine fini fini, chicken with peppers, pasta and beans, roast trout and fish dishes. Then there are spaghetti with river prawns or with trout sauce and you can also enjoy fried pizza, lamb, kid, sausages with broccoli, tanni which are similar to turnips and are seasoned with garlic and oil. Ratafi is a local liquor made from cherries macerated in red wine and left in the sun for forty days then mixed with alcohol and sugar.

>> On the table Among the local specialties don’t miss the sagnette with beans, the tripe, the peasant soup, the pork and the lamb.

The town produces fantastic oil and wine, and the local porcini mushrooms and truffles, which are gathered in the woods on the surrounding mountains, and the cheeses, olives and local bread are also excellent.

www.comune.isoladelliri.fr.it

www.comunedipico.it

Altitude 192 m. asl

121

Inhabitants 2,800

Patron Saint Sant’Antonio Martire, September 2nd Tourist Information Via Umberto I, 23 Tel. 0776 544012 Distance from Rome 129 kms Excursions Trails in the Monti Aurunci and Monti Ausoni To discover in the surrounding area Pastena Grottos, Lake Canterno Riviera di Ulisse Nearby Pontecorvo, Pastena, San Giovanni Incarico, Lenola, Campodimele Environmental attractions Monti Aurunci Natural Park, Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Sanctuary of Monte Leucio Sports Cycling, hiking, trekking, rallys Events Feast of Sant’Antonio Martire, Rally, September Tour of the Abbeys, Shrines and Castles of Lazio, August Camper sites

POSTA FIBRENO T

122

Altitude 430 m. asl

Inhabitants 1,139

Patron Saint Santa Vittoria e Santa Blandina, August 19th Tourist Information Piazza Cesare Battisti, 4 Tel. 0776 887282 Distance from Rome 130 kms Excursions Trails in the Lake Posta Fibreno Nature Reserve To discover in the surrounding area Montecassino Abbey, Terme di Fiuggi spa, Lake Canterno, Campo Staffi

he town gets its name from the lake beneath it, and is considered one of Central Italy’s most beautiful and characteristic natural oases. Posta Fibreno’s lake sources are famous for their intense blue colour.

The lake has a floating island an overgrown platform of some thirty meters. The area has abundant fauna and the lake has reptiles, amphibians and many species of fish, including the famous Fibreno carp. The area is part of the Lake Posta Fibreno Regional Nature Reserve and offers visitors opportunities for excursions and the chance of spotting over a hundred species of birds. Since the times of the Samnites the local farmers have been crossing the lake with their characteristic naue flat-bottomed boats. >> Not to be missed The famous Lake Posta Fibreno Regional Nature Reserve with its many nature trails. Then there is the Roman Villa Gallio and the Museum of Farmers’ and Fishermen’s Tools.

Nearby Campoli Appennino, Alvito, Fontechiari, Vicalvi Environmental attractions Lake Posta Fibreno Nature Reserve, Abruzzo Lazio and Molise National Park Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena, Sanctuary of the Madonna della Vittoria Sports Cycling, excursions, paragliding, golf, bird-watching horseback riding, diving Events Festival of the Frog, July Diving Event in Lake Fibreno, Feast of Santa Vittoria and Santa Blandina, August

>> Curiosity Immersed in the lake, since 1977, in Codigliane locality is a steel cross made by the late sculptor Pino Bonavenia, which is brought to the surface during the annual Festival of the Crucifix and the Diver.

ROCCASECCA R

occasecca is dominated by Mount Asprano and sits on a hill between two ravines that give access to the Comino Valley. Founded in 994 by Abbot Mansone, it was completely rebuilt after the World War II bombings and is now divided into four villages: Centro, Castello, Caprile and Roccasecca Scalo. The Church of San Tommaso in Castello has 15th-century frescoes while, under the hill with the ancient town, stands the Church of Santa Maria Assunta which has three naves. In the old centre of the town you can admire the Church and the Convent of San Francesco, the Boncompagni Palace and the Church of Santa Margherita. In Caprile the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie with its Romanesque façade and Baroque interior stands out, and it also has two priceless 16th century oil paintings on wood. >> Not to be missed The town has many attractive monuments like the Church of the Madonna del Ponte, the Church of Sant’Angelo in Asprano and the Church of San Pietro a Campea. There are also interesting remains of the 10th century Castle of the Counts of Aquino, the Fountain and the House of Saint Thomas Aquinas. >> Curiosity In the station there is a statue of the comedian Totò, in honour of his part in the film “Il Medico dei Pazzi” which mentions Roccasecca.

>> On the table Among the specialties are fish appetizers, spaghetti with trout, fried sticklebacks, gnocchi with nettle cream, chickpea-stuffed ravioli with porcini mushrooms and saffron, and strozzaprete pasta with mushrooms and truffles. At the annual Festival of the Frog the typical dishes feature local and excellent baked or fried trout, linguine with crayfish and, of course, fried frogs.

>> On the table Try the tripe soup and the turnip soup, the Roccasecca broccoli and the Dop pepper. Fans of liquors will like the rattafia which is made with sour cherries and accompanies desserts like the tesechelle or tozzetti biscuits, the wine donuts and Roccasecca puffs which are made with ricotta cheese and chocolate.

www.comune.postafibreno.fr.it

www.comune.roccaseccadeivolsci.it

Altitude 245 m. asl

123

Inhabitants 7,365

Patron Saint San Pietro Martire, April 29th Tourist Information Via Roma Tel. 0776 569911 Distance from Rome 128 kms Excursions Forty-four trails between Monte Cairo and the Melfa Gorges, Il Tracciolino To discover in the surrounding area Montecassino Abbey, Liri Valley, Comino Valley Nearby Castrocielo, Colfelice, Colle San Magno, Pontecorvo, Rocca d’Arce, Santopadre, San Giovanni Incarico, Cassino Environmental attractions Caprile Cliff, Melfa Gorges Religious itineraries Way of the Abbeys, Benedetto’s Way Sports Trekking, mountain biking, canoeing, canyoning, horseback riding, climbing Events Feast of San Pietro Martire, April Severino Gazzelloni Festival, September Broccoli Festival, December Camper sites

PRATICA DI MARE

CISTERNA DI LATINA

MONTE SAN BIAGIO

LENOLA FONDI

MINTURNO

FORMIA

VALLECORSA T

124

Altitude 350 m. asl

Inhabitants 2,643

Patron Saint San Michele Arcangelo, September 29th

Tourist Information Piazza Vittime Civili di Guerra Tel. 0775 679017 Distance from Rome 113 kms Excursions Castle Acquaviva (old Vallecorsa) trails on the Monti Lepini To discover in the surrounding area Lake Fondi, Casamari Abbey Nearby Castro dei Volsci, Monte San Biagio, Fondi, Lenola, Fondi, Amaseno Environmental attractions Monti Lepini ed Ausoni Religious itineraries Sancuary of the Madonna della Sanità Sports Cycling, trekking Events National Sacred Choral Music Contest, May Feast of San Michele, September Olive oil and Bruschetta Day, December / January

he town is nestled under Monte Calvilli in the Ausoni Valley with terraces of olive trees growing on unique kinds of stone walls (a macéra) that make their way to the top of the rocky mountains. In the 9th century Vallecorsa, the Town of Oil, developed around a castle in the Fondi County. The walls, the three gates and the main churches, including the Church of Sant ‘Angelo with the admirable altarpiece by Jacopo Zucchi, date back to the Medieval period. In the historical centre we can admire the house of Santa Maria De Mattias who founded the order of the Suore Adoratrici del Preziosissimo Sangue. Medieval buildings of architectural interest include the Porta Missoria con gli scaluni where Isabella Caetani, Countess of Fondi, died in 1412, the Porta di Suso and the Porta Sant’Angelo. >> Not to be missed The castle, the dell’Arelle Staircase leading from Piazza Plebisicito up the mountain, the sloping streets and the stone buildings with their portals crafted by local artisans, the Churchs of Sant’Angelo and San Martino. Also of interest are the Demoethnoanthropological Civic Museum and the House of Santa Maria De Mattias. >> Curiosity In 1960 the movie director Vittorio De Sica shot some scenes of his masterpiece Two Women with Sophia Loren near Vallecorsa’s Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. >> On the table The typical Vallecorsa olive oil, local marzolino goat cheese and the menésta a fasuori bean soup. Also try the padèlle, a mixture of flour and water cooked in hot oil and, among the desserts, don’t miss the scazzotti and the tortero, the local Easter cake.

CITY OF OIL www.comune.vallecorsa.fr.it

RIVIERA DI ULISSE, COSTIERA DI ENEA AND PONTINE ISLANDS WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO TASTE

WHAT TO DO

>> Circeo National Park

>> Colline Pontine DOP extra virgin olive oil

>> Excursions to Lake Fogliano

>> Campana DOP buffalo mozzarella and ricotta

>> Formia, The Cisternone

>> Cisterna di Latina, Gardens of Ninfa >> Monti Aurunci Natural Park >> Pratica di Mare, Lavinium Archaeologicl Museum

Terracina DOC Moscato wine >> Fondi’s “Fondano” tomatoes

>> Riviera di Ulisse Regionale Park and Giànola e del Monte di Scauri Protected Area

>> Monte San Biagio PAT Cilantro sausage

>> Monti Ausoni and Lake di Fondi Natural Regional Park

>> San Giovanni Battista di Lenola Nocino

>> Mini Tiella baked pies

>> Itineraries on Giànola’s Blue Oasis >> Lenola, Staircase of Peace >> Walks in the Sughereta San Vito Oak Forest >> Excursions to the Campo Soriano National Monument >> Excursions to the Pontine Islands

>> Minturnae Archaeological Complex

>> Sailing school and championships

>> Isola di Ventotene e Santo Stefano Protected Marine Area

>> Walks to the secret Castellone Stairs in Formia

>> Fossanova Abbey

>> Monti Aurunci Natural Park

>> Valvisciolo Abbey in Cisterna di Latina

>> Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi Natural Regional Park

>> Cicero’s Tomb in Formia >> Urban Restoration of the Roman City in Formia >> La Giudea and Fondi Jewish Museum

CISTERNA DI LATINA C

126

Altitude 77 m asl

Inhabitants 36,868

Patron Saint San Rocco, August 16th Tourist Information Via Zanella, 1 Tel. 06 968341 Distance from Rome 68 kms Excursions Cycling in the Circeo National Park, Lake Fogliano To discover in the surrounding area Tempio di Ercole in Cori, Valvisciolo Abbey, Antica Norba archaeological area Nearby Aprilia, Velletri, Latina, Artena, Cori, Norma, Sermoneta Environmental attractions Gardens of Ninfa, Torrecchia Vecchia Natural Monument, Circeo National Park Religious itineraries San Paolo and Tres Tabernae, Southern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, trekking Events Feast of San Rocco, Joust of the Saracen and Ring Palio, August Festival of the Ricalata, October Camper sites

isterna di Latina, on the Via Appia along the route St. Paul took to Rome, enjoyed its heyday under the dominion of the Caetani family who extended the area to Lake Fogliano. According to tradition the name refers to a cistern that Emperor Nero built for the water supply in the area. The town, which is surrounded by lush countryside and charming lakes, is packed with history and art and has appealing natural areas. The castle of Torrecchia Vecchia was turned into a private garden and later enhanced with fountains, floral features and art works. The Filetto Wood is what is left of a former Caetani hunting reserve that stretched through the vast area that today is between the Via Tivera, the San Valentino district and Torrecchia. On the site there are several Roman and medieval ruins and a splendid travertine grotto.

>> Not to be missed The 16th century Palazzo Caetani with unexplored underground tunnels which were used as shelters during the Second World War bombings; the Church of Santa Maria Assunta with important ceramics on the portal and in the apse; the Gardens of Ninfa Natural Monument which includes one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in Italy and is part of the WWF Oasis Affiliate system. >> Curiosity This is the land of cowboys who guard the local herds of buffalo, a tradition which Cisterna keeps alive with performances and equestrian events. And, in the 1930s this was the nerve center of the reclamation of the Pontine Marshes, which later became a fertile plain. >> On the table Don’t miss the chance to enjoy the Campana DOP buffalo ricotta, artichoke hearts with marjoram, fried mozzarella and the fettuccine papalina, a type of pasta carbonara created by Pope Pio XII using Parma ham and Parmesan cheese instead of bacon and goat’s cheese. The area produces the excellent Colline Pontine DOP extra virgin olive oil, DOC wines like Castelli Romani and IGP kiwifruit. www.comune.cisterna-di-latina.latina.it

FONDI T

he lunar shape of Lake Fondi characterizes this beautiful town at the foot of the Aurunci and Ausoni mountains. According to legend it was founded by Hercules, and in the old town there are many historical traces like the Roman town plan and the Jewish quarter, the Medieval walls, the Castle built by the Caetani family and old churches. The sea plays a major role in the life of Fondi which is very close to the low and sandy coast which, in some places, is bordered by well-preserved coastal dunes. For all its monuments and natural wonders Fondi was praised by writers and poets from different eras including J.W. Goethe, who wrote: “... nothing is more charming than this little piece of fertile land, [...] almost everywhere oranges hang from the trees; the fields, all sown with wheat, are green, in the fields the olive trees...“.

>> Not to be missed Visit the Civic Museum, the Caetani Castle, the Renaissance Palazzo del Principe, the 12th century Church of San Pietro and the Church of Santa Maria Assunta with a beautiful painting on wood by Scacco dating back to 1501, and a Cosmati-style pulpit, and the Abbey of San Magno.

Altitude 8 m asl

127

Inhabitants 39,809

Patron Saint Sant’Onorato, October 10th Tourist Information Via San Francesco, 4 Tel. 0771 5071 Distance from Rome 130 kms Excursions Quercia del Monaco Acquaviva, Monte delle Fate To discover in the surrounding area Sperlonga National Archaeological Museum, San Vito Sughereta oak forest Nearby Terracina, Monte San Biagio, Vallecorsa, Lenola, Capodimele, Itri, Sperlonga, Gaeta Environmental attractions Mola della Corte Natural Monument, Monti Aurunci, Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi

>> Curiosity The film “Giorni d’amore,” starring Marcello Mastroianni as a young man from Fondi and directed by Giuseppe de Santis, who was born in Fondi, was shot in this area. >> On the table As well as the many seafood specialties like the tasty sautéd mussels and clams and mixed fried fish, try the pasta with olives and pumpkin, the Campana DOP buffalo mozzarella and ricotta, the Lake Fondi PAT calamita and the famous Fondi tomatoes. Anyone with a sweet tooth will delight in the mustaccioli, which are covered with a chocolate glaze. www.comunedifondi.it

Religious itineraries Madonna della Rocca Trail Sports Cycling, swimming, trekking Events Medieval Festival and Fondi Palio, June Fondi Film Festival, September Sant’Onorato Festival, October Camper sites

FORMIA

128

Altitude 19 m asl

Inhabitants 38,127

Patron Saint Sant’Erasmo e San Giovanni Battista, June 2nd and 24th Tourist Information Via Vitruvio, 190 Tel. 0771 7781 Distance from Rome 148 kms Excursions Monte Redentore, Nature Trail and Butterfly Garden To discover in the surrounding area The hamlet of Manarola, Terme di Suio spa, Sanctuary of the Santissima Trinità and Montagna Spaccata, Gaeta

Nearby Gaeta, Itri, Esperia, Sperlonga, Spigno Saturnia, Minturno Environmental attractions Oasi blu and Giànola Protected Area, Monti Aurunci Natural Park, Giànola and Monte di Scauri Natural Regional Park Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, trekking, hang-gliding, paragliding Events Feast of S. Erasmo and S.G. Battista, June Beer Festival, August Tree Day, October Camper sites

T

his seaside resort of ancient traditions is protected by the surrounding green hills and Mount Altino. It has a mild climate and a rich artistic and cultural heritage. Considered one of the oldest cities in the south Pontine area, it has many Roman ruins including villas and ancient tombs, including the tomb of Cicero. Formia (from the Greek hormiai meaning harbour) in the heart of the Gulf of Gaeta, is an important traffic hub with a railway station and a commercial port. It lies between the beaches of Vindicio to the west and Acquatraversa, Santo Janni and Ginola to the east. The town is an architectural gem with its medieval Castellone district, the little Roman port of Giànola, the Roman fountain beside the Via Appia, the remains of an aqueduct and of a Roman theater, and the beachfront and commercial area of Mola with the large medieval tower. >> Not to be missed The Medieval Castellone, the National Archaeological Museum and the little Roman port of Caposele.

Visitors can also admire the Church of Sant’Erasmo, which was an episcopal see from the 4th to the 9th century, and the Churches of Santa Maria della Noce and of San Rocco.

>> Curiosity The suggestive 1st century B.C. Cisternone Romano is an imposing longitudinal structure with rows of pillars dividing it into four vaulted naves. There are important traces of Roman hydraulic engineering, second in size only to that of Istanbul. The CONI’s Olympic preparation centre is in Formia. >> On the table Try the Gaeta PAT tiella, a small pie, salads of beans and lentils, paccheri pasta with porcini mushrooms, shrimp and sea bream baked with potatoes and the other excellent local Mediterranean fish. The cheeses and dairy products, the DOP pecorino cheese, Roman ricotta, and DOP buffalo Campana mozzarella are also delicious. www.comune.formia.lt.it

LENOLA L

enola, which is surrounded by the Ausoni mountains, overlooks the plain of Fondi with its lake and is a stunning blend of nature and art. Vittorio Emanuele III said that with the mountains, the plains, the lake, the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Pontine islands, this was “the most beautiful landscape in Italy.” Lenola is close to the sea but you can also enjoy the green surrounding mountains.

The old urban nucleus is on the highest part of the hill and includes a boundary wall with closely-packed houses, narrow lanes and steps leading up to the Baron’s Palace. On the top of the hill above the old town we find the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Colle, which is connected to the village by the long Staircase of Peace amidst ancient trees set in the pristine natural surroundings of the Aurunci Mountains Natural Park.

Altitude 425 m asl

129

Inhabitants 4,189

Patron Saint San Giovanni Battista, June 24th Tourist Information Via Municipio, 8 Tel. 0771 59581 Distance from Rome 135 kms

>> Not to be missed The Churches of San Giovanni Evangelista, Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Croce, the Madonna del Latte and Delle Benigne Grazie. Quite interesting the ruins of Ambrifi and Acquaviva. >> Curiosity The Staircase of Peace consists of 110 steps, 83 of which have mosaics portraying the theme of peace made from sketches by artists from all over the world. >> On the table Try the spaghetti with wild asparagus, the pettella and fasuoli (pasta and beans). Local specialties include struffoli, broccoli strascinati and Colline Pontine DOP extra virgin olive oil. Also worthy of note are the bagels with aniseed and the tortieri donuts with sugar.

For spirit lovers there is the walnut liqueur of San Giovanni Battista, made from an infusion of nuts and alcohol. Other traditional PAT products include the excellent struffoli of Sezze and Lenola, and the DOP mozzarella and Campana buffalo ricotta.

CITY OF OIL www.comune.lenola.lt.it

Excursions Campo Soriano Natural Monument, Quercia di Monaco Natural Monument - Acquaviva To discover in the surrounding area Pastena Grottos, Mount Appiolo, Ambrifi, Lake Fondi Nearby Fondi, Vallecorsa, Sperlonga, Monte San Biagio, Pastena, Pico, Campodimele Environmental attractions Monti Aurunci Natural Park, Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi Natural Regional Park Sports Cycling, trekking, excursions Events Feast of San G. Battista, June Threshing Festival, July Lenolese Summer, August

MINTURNO M

130

Altitude 141 m asl

Inhabitants 19,783

Patron Saint Madonna delle Grazie, September 1st

Tourist Information Via Principe di Piemonte Tel. 0771 6608200 Distance from Rome 160 kms Excursions Monti Aurunci Natural Regional Park To discover in the surrounding area Terme di Suio, Abbey of Monte Cassino, Sperlonga National Archaeological Museum with the remains of Tiberius’ villa Nearby Formia, Spigno Saturnia, Coreno Ausonio, Santi Cosma e Damiano, Castelforte Environmental attractions Giànola and Mount Scauri Protected Area Religious itineraries Southern Via Francigena Sports Cycling, trekking, excursions, diving, fishing, surfing, tennis, sailing Events Regne Festival, July Feast of the Madonna delle Grazie, September Camper sites

inturno, of Aurunche and Roman origins, is on a hill overlooking the two maritime hamlets of Scauri and Marina di Minturno. The site has the remains of the ancient city of Minturnae, an area of great historical and monumental interest with the theater, temples, the Republican forum, the Imperial forum, the capitolium, the tabernae, the macellum, the antiquarium and the thermal baths. The town grew along the old Via Appia on the right bank of the Garigliano river, and is now crossed by an old bridge built by the Bourbons in 1832. The historical center has many Medieval buildings like the Baronial Castle where, among others, St. Thomas Aquinas, Isabella Colonna and Giulia Gonzaga all stayed. The 14th century Torre dei Molini tower is in Scauri, while in the Giànola and Mount Scauri Protected Area, you can see the remains of the Ausone town of Pirae and the ruins of the Roman villa of the consul Marcus Aemilius Scaurus. >> Not to be missed The archaeological complex of Minturnae, the English War Cemetery, the Castrum Argenti, and also the Church of San Pietro, and the Church of San Francesco with the fresco of the Madonna delle Grazie. >> Curiosity According to some the name Minturnae derives from Minòtauros (Minotaur) the Cretan god, while others maintain that the Minturno in the root and in the suffix has Etruscan derivations from Mintur, meaning the scorching sun. >> On the table Enjoy the dishes based on fish, like the seafood risotto, the fish soup, and the spaghetti with seafood.

Other delights include the Campagna DOP buffalo ricotta, liver with sauce, fronne and potatoes, the pangiallo and the ruzze donuts.

MONTE SAN BIAGIO T

he town’s nucleus of houses and buildings sits on the bare rock of a hill just off Monte delle Fate (1,090 m) and Monte Calvo (1,038 m). The narrow streets become steps up to the castle from which you can admire the beautiful views over Lake Fondi. The first mention of castellum Monticelli dates back to 1099 when a nobleman called Crescenzo, who lived in the Fortress of Monticelli, sold a plot of land to build a house inside the Castro Asprano, which was the origin of castrum Monticelli. After the Unity of Italy the town took the name of Monte San Biagio, in honour of the patron saint. The town is rich in historical traditions, food and wine, and there are several mausoleums dating back to the Roman era including the Mausoleum of the Emperor Publius Sulpicius Galba, a quadrangular edifice made with large blocks of stone. Monte San Biagio takes pride in being the emperor’s birthplace. >> Not to be missed The town’s most important buildings include the Castle built in 1099 which is on the ruins of the fortress of a Roman temple, and the Church of San Giovanni Battista with a 1503 painting on wood by Cristoforo Scacco. Also worthy of note are the Porta di San Rocco gate with the initials of Jesus, Mary and Mary Magdalene engraved on the keystone, the Portico dello Scacco and the 1100 Church of Sant’Antonio Abate. >> Curiosity The San Vito Sughereta forest with tall cork oaks has been classified as an area of natural interest and is the only one of its kind in Italy. It stretches over three hundred hectares and has Mediterranean floral undergrowth. >> On the table The Monte San Biagio PAT cilantro sausage is famous, while other typical specialities include the local Lake Fondi shrimp, wild asparagus and marzolina cheese made from white goat’s milk. For wine lovers there is the DOC Moscato di Terracina which has an intoxicating bouquet.

Altitude 133 m asl

131

Inhabitants 6,286

Patron Saint San Biagio, February 3rd Tourist Information Via Roma, 1 Tel. 0771 5689200 Distance from Rome 120 kms Excursions Campo Soriano Natural Monument To discover in the surrounding area San Vito Sughereta oak forest, Pastena Grottos, Gardens of Ninfa, Minturnae Archaeological Area Nearby Terracina, Sonnino, Amaseno, Vallecorsa, Fondi Environmental attractions Lake Fondi Natural Monument, Monti Ausoni and Lake Fondi Natural Regional Park Sports Excursions, cycling, trekking Events Feast of San Biagio, February Sughereta Festival, August Moscato Festival, September Camper sites

www.comune.minturno.lt.it

www.comunedimontesanbiagio.it

PRATICA DI MARE N

132

Altitude 108 m asl

Inhabitants 62,966

Patron Saint San Benedetto da Norcia, July 11th Tourist Information Piazza Indipendenza, 1 Tel. 06 911461 Distance from Rome 35 kms Excursions Bosco del Pigneto and the Sughereta oak forest To discover in the surrounding area Lake Fogliano, Porto di Traiano, Ancient Lavinium archaeological area

ear Pomezia we find the charming town of Pratica di Mare with the old centre in the form of a vicus, which means a group of houses near a castle. Patricam is mentioned in the Papal Bull of Gregory VII in 1074 when, with the title of Civitas, it was confirmed as belonging to the abbey of San Paolo Fuori le Mura to which it had been donated by Pope Marino I in the 9th century. Later the Castle was built on an irregular pentagonal plan in Medieval-Romanesque style. In the municipality of Pomezia, the town is in the Agro Romano countryside extending south of Rome, with views of the Castelli Romani hills and the Tyrrhenian Sea on both sides. In 2005 the Lavinium Archaeological Museum was established containing exhibits from the old Lazio town. The excavations of 1957, carried out by Rome’s La Sapienza University, have identified a number of structures from ancient Lavinium, including the Sanctuary of the Tredici Are, the Heroon di Enea burial mound, the walls, a city gate, the baths, and a votive deposit dedicated to Minerva. >> Not to be missed The Museum of Pratica di Mare, the Lavinium Archaeological Museum, the Church of San Pietro Apostolo, with a painting of the saint, the Mario de Bernardi military airport where you can visit the headquarters of the Air Force’s Meteorological Service.

Nearby Roma, Ostia Antica, Ardea, Anzio, Nettuno Environmental attractions Castelli Romani Regional Park, Presidential Castelporziano Estate Sports Cycling, excursions, trekking, sailing, kite-surfing Events Feast of San Benedetto da Norcia, July Feast of the Assumption, August Camper sites

>> Curiosity Sergio Leone, who started making Western movies in the Pratica di Mare area in the ‘60s, is buried in the town’s small cemetery. >> On the table Excellent fried artichokes, gnocchi alla romana, sweet and sour onions, aromatic liver, frascarelli topped with sauce, aubergines and sausages. Do not miss the fritto alla romana fries with a batter made from eggs, carbonated water, flour and salt. Among the traditional products is the excellent PAT buffalo burrata. www.comune.pomezia.rm.it

PHOTOGRAPHS On the cover Left: l Laura Costantina Sechi, Lago del Salto - Rieti Right: l Valerio Mei, Roccantica - Rieti Page 7 Andrea Palma, Santa Severa - Roma Matteo Pizzi, Castel di Tora - Rieti l Maria Patrizia Ciccarelli, Lago di Postafibreno - Frosinone l Pietro Marchetti, Roviano - Roma l Daniele Giaffreda, Ninfa - Latina l Marco Cassar, Abbazia di Farfa - Rieti l l

TUSCIA AND MAREMMA LAZIALE

Opening: Fotolia Acquapendente: Pippo-b/wikimedia (opening), James Good/wikimedia (lat.), Lisa Koivu/flickr (on the table) Blera e Civitella Cesi: C laudius Ziehr/wikimedia (opening), Croberto68/wikimedia (description), Iversen Rönnlund/wikimedia (lat.), l Giorgia Bisignano (on the table) Canepina: Comune (opening, lat.) Claudia Celli Simi/flickr (on the table) Capranica: Croberto68/wikimedia (opening, description), Luigi Guarino/flickr (lat.) Pixabay (on the table) Castiglione in Teverina: Comune (opening, lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Celleno: Vitmalinovsky/wikimedia (opening), Comune (description), Carla Simeoni/flickr (lat.), tusciawelcome (on the table) Cellere: Pro loco (opening), Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Ceri: Alessandra/flickr (opening, description), Sergio Russo/flickr (lat.), l Maria Scura (on the table) Civita Castellana: Supermiagolator/flickr (opening), Thomas Alan/flickr (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Corchiano: Thomas Alan/flickr (opening, lat. ), Pixabay (on the table), tusciaweklcome (lat.)

Gallese: Elinda Pilli (opening), Croberto68/wikimedia (lat.), Bellazio (on the table) Gradoli: tusciaunicard.it (opening), Passion Leica/flickr (lat.), originalitaly.it (on the table) Grotte di Castro: Ayers/wikimedia (opening), Comune (lat.), Comune (on the table) Montalto di Castro: Comune (opening, description), Pietro Carai (lat.), Nicola Quirico/wikimedia (on the table) Onano: Pro loco (opening, lat.), Ayers/wikimedia (Curiosity), l Simona Riccitelli (on the table) Proceno: Ziegler175/wikimedia (opening), Salvatore Capraro (lat.), Pro loco (on the table) San Martino al Cimino: B ellazio (opening), Giorgio Rodano/flickr (description), Blackcat/wikimedia (lat.), l Maria Angela Contenta (on the table) Santa Severa: Deni2/flickr (opening), Ra Boe/wikimedia (lat.), Jeffrey Chiang/flickr (on the table) Tolfa: Melanie Bateman/flickr (opening), Charles Roffey/flickr (lat.), Ra Boe/wikimedia (description), Pixabay (on the table) Valentano: C omune (opening), Sergio De Ferra/wikimedia (lat.), Maurizio Firmani/wikimedia (not to be missed), Elisa Pontuale (laterale) Vallerano: Croberto68/wikimedia (description), Altotemi/flickr (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Vasanello: Fabio Maracci/Comune (opening, description, on the table), Andy Pixel/flickr (lat.), Vetralla: Anna Polidori (opening), Bellazio (on the table), Croberto68/wikimedia (lat.)

Vignanello: Pro loco (opening), Mtl1969/wikimedia (description, lat.), Pixabay (on the table)

SABINA

Opening: Fotolia Cantalice: Comune (opening), quotidiano.net (on the table), Pro loco (lat.)

Casaprota: Theloke/wikimedia (opening), Pro loco (on the table, lat.), Roberto Proveda/flickr (description) Cittareale: C omune (opening), Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (description, lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Colle di Tora: Comune (opening), Alessandro/flickr (description), Fotolia (on the table) Contigliano: Raffaella Falcetti (opening), Comune (description, lat.), FoodInItaly (on the table) Cottanello: Manuelarosi/wikimedia (opening, description, lat.), Morail/ flickr (not to be missed) Frasso Sabino: Comune (opening, lat.), Alessandro/wikimedia (description), l Roberto Antonini (on the table) Greccio: Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (opening), Gunnar Back Pederson/wikimedia (lat.)

Christofer John SSF/flickr (description), Veronica De Angelis (on the table) Mompeo: P ro loco (opening, lat.), Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (description), l Alessandra Ciangherotti (curiosità), Pixabay (on the table) Monteleone Sabino: Dan Diffendale/flickr (opening, lat.), Comune (description), Patafisik/wikimedia, l Michele Bondini (on the table) Montelibretti: Comune (opening), MM/wikimedia (description), l Maria Cristina Berruti (on the table) Montenero Sabino: visitlazio.com (opening), Simone Tagliaferri/flickr (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Morro Reatino: Mikel Baqli (opening), Pro loco (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Nerola: Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (opening), MM/wikimedia (lat.), Salvo Brasil/wikimedia (on the table) Petrella Salto: Emanuela Loddo/Comune (opening), Luca Verzulli/flickr (lat.), l Erica Paris (on the table) Poggio San Lorenzo: Comune (opening, lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Posta: Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (opening), Pro loco (lat.)

Rivodutri: rurality.it (opening), Pro loco (description), Simone Tagliaferri/flickr (lat.), l Silvano Cermola (on the table) Rocca Sinibalda: A ngela Vecchione (opening), l Dina Dominici (description), Comune (lat.), l Eleonora Caprari (on the table) Roccantica: Aurelio Candido/flickr (opening), l Veronica Giagnorio (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Scandriglia: Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (opening), Comune (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Toffia: Raffaele Birnardo (opening), Comune (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Torri in Sabina: L amberto Zannotti/wikimedia (opening), Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (description), Budarsan/flickr (lat.), Pixabay (on the table)

l

Photo Contest BelLazio

PHOTOGRAPHS VALLE DELL’ANIENE AND VALLE DEL TEVERE

Arsoli: Altotemi/flickr (opening), Luca Verzulli/flickr (lat.), Comune (on the table) Campagnano di Roma: V essia Matteo/wikimedia (opening, description), Livioandronico2013/wikimedia (lat.), Cristina La Carruba/flickr (on the table) Capena: Russ London/wikimedia (description), Bill Thomson (opening), Thomas Alan/flickr (lat.), wikimedia (on the table) Ciciliano: Comune (opening, lat.), Raffaele Birnardo (description) Fiano Romano: Alfredo Morlacchi (opening), Pippo-b/wikimedia (lat.), Fotolia (on the table) Filacciano: Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (lat.), Flavia Conidi/flickr (on the table) Formello: MM/wikimedia (opening), l Gianluca Coccia (on the table) Jenne: Fotolia (opening), Comune (description, lat.), Chiara/flickr (on the table) Licenza: l Maurizio Valentini (opening, lat.), l Claudio Capparelli (on the table) Mazzano Romano: M. Korhoner/flickr (opening), l M. Assunta Venturi (description), Fotolia (on the table), Fugzu/wikimedia (lat.)

Nazzano: Sirio Santodonato (opening), culturalazio.it (lat.), l Anna Doddi (on the table) Poli: Comune (opening), Pippo-b/wikimedia (lat.), Michela Simoncini (on the table) Ponzano Romano: Pippo-b/Wikipedia (opening), l Riccardo Cuppini (lat.) Fugzu/wikimedia (on the table) Rocca Canterano: Fotolia (opening), Luca Verzulli/flickr (lat.)

Rocca Santo Stefano: Comune (opening, lat.), Paolo Piscolla/wikimedia (on the table) Roiate: Comune (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Roviano: Luca Verzulli/flickr (opening, description), Federica Tacchia (lat.)

Sant’Oreste: Pro loco (lat.), Giorgio Minguzzi (on the table) Saracinesco: Cosimo Roams/flickr (opening), Raffaele Ferreri (lat.), Comune (on the table) Torrita Tiberina: Mac9/wikimedia (opening), Pro loco (description, lat.), Pixabay (on the table), wikimedia (not to be missed)

ROMA AND ENVIRONS

Opening: l Giovanni Sarrocco Castello di Porto: Giovanni Garofoli - www.tesoridellazio.it (opening), Pixabay (on the table) Isola Farnese: Luciano Mollica (opening), Giulia Gasparro/flickr (lat.), Croberto68/wikimedia (lat.)

Ostia Antica: Fotolia (opening), Claudia Grappasonni (lat.), Francesco Costanzo (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Santa Maria di Galera: C roberto68/wikimedia (opening, description, lat.), Martina Vizzani (lat.), Pixabay (on the table)

CASTELLI ROMANI, MONTI PRENESTINI AND LEPINI

Opening: l Piero Ceccaroni Albano Laziale: Deblu68/wikimedia (opening e lat.), l Giancarlo Magni (on the table) Capranica Prenestina: B rega76/wikimedia (opening), Rgiannotti1/wikimedia (lat.), Adriano Di Benedetto (lat.), Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (on the table) Casape: Libero.it (opening), castelliere.blogspot (description), Pro loco (on the table, lat.)

Colonna: Comune (opening), Pro loco (on the table e description), Simone Ramella/flickr (lat.)

Gallicano nel Lazio: Gengish Skan/flickr (opening, lat., on the table) Gavignano: Bade Mills/wikimedia (opening, description, lat.), Javier Lastras/wikimedia (on the table) Gorga: Pro loco (opening, description, lat.)

Priverno: Giuseppe Sciscione - Associazione “Ladri di Luce”/ProLoco (opening), l Francesco De Marchis (lat.), Piergiorgio Mariniello/flickr (Not to be missed), Fotolia (on the table) Rocca di Cave: Mario Petrone/flickr (opening), Pro loco (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Rocca Massima: Comune (description), Daniele Muscetta/flickr (lat.), Paolo De Simoni (on the table) Roccagorga: Comune (opening, lat.), flick (on the table) Roccasecca dei Volsci: Pro loco (opening), Comune (lat.), Fotolia (on the table) Zagarolo: A. Buda (opening), Alessandro Vergari (lat.), Lplt/wikimedia (description), Turismo Zagarolo (on the table)

CIOCIARIA

Alvito: F otolia (opening), Wento/wikimedia (lat.), Delaque79/flickr (description), Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (on the table) Amaseno: Comune (opening), Pippo-b/wikimedia (lat.), Giacomo bruni (on the table) Aquino: Carlo Caparrelli (opening), Tilly Sfortunato/flickr (description), Anna Di Cesare (on the table, lat.)

Ausonia: Manuela Marrocco (opening, lat.), Filnik/wikimedia (description), Rollopack/wikimedia (on the table) Campoli Appennino: Agenzia Regionale per il Turismo (opening), Pietro Scerrato/wikimedia (lat.), Manuela Marrocco (on the table) Castro dei Volsci: Comune (opening), Angelo Martedì (lat.), Pro loco (not to be missed), Laura Lorenzo (on the table) Castrocielo: Francesco Camplani/wikimedia (opening), Comune (lat.), Pro loco (on the table) Esperia: Carlo Iossa/wikimedia (opening), Francesca Brugnoli/flickr (on the table, lat.)

Ferentino: Pietro Scerrato/wikimedia (opening, not to be missed), Luigi Strano/flickr (lat.), Necopunch/flickr (on the table) Filettino: Smiley Toerist/wikimedia (opening), Giancarlo Magni (description), Dante De Sire (lat.)

Fiuggi: Altotemi/flickr (opening), Dav518/wikimedia (lat.), visitlazio.com (on the table) Guarcino: Comune (opening), MM/wikimedia (lat.), Pasquale Calicchia (on the table) Isola del Liri: E ugenio Roscilli (opening), Ermanno Salvatore (description), Cinnamonroll/flickr (lat.), Luca Nebuloni/flickr (on the table) Pico: Comune (opening, description, lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Posta Fibreno: Pro loco (opening), Wento/wikimedia (description), Comune (lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Roccasecca: Comune (opening, lat.), Wento/wikimedia (description), l Federico Protano (on the table) Vallecorsa: visitlazio.com (opening), Comune (description, lat.), Fotolia (on the table)

RIVIERA DI ULISSE, COSTIERA DI ENEA AND PONTINE ISLANDS

Cisterna di Latina: G nu/wikimedia (opening), Anatolia Monica Mancini (lat.), Simona Brusatin (lat.), Elisa Brignone (on the table) Fondi: Winston Mcleod/flickr (opening), Comune (lat.), Davide Naldi (description), l Elio Franco Padrone (on the table) Formia: visitlazio.com (opening), Comune (lat.)

Lenola: Mary Molinaro/flickr (opening, lat.), Stefania Cardi (on the table) Minturno: Angelo Milioto (opening), Carole Radddato (not to be missed, lat.), Pixabay (on the table) Monte San Biagio: P ottercomuneo/wikimedia (opening), Comune (lat., on the table) Pratica di Mare: Mac9/wikimedia (opening), Maurizio Di Domenico (lat.), Pixabay (on the table)

VALERIO MEI

ROCCANTICA - RIETI

visitlazio

1

2

visit_lazio visit_lazio visitlazio

3

4 Roma

25

5 6

50 7

10

0

15

0

“For visiting the towns in the guide the distances are from/to Rome”.

TERRITORIES IN LAZIO 1

Tuscia and Maremma Laziale

2

Sabina

3

Valle dell’Aniene and Valle del Tevere

4

Rome and Environs

5

Castelli Romani, Monti Prenestini and Lepini

6

Ciociaria

7

Riviera di Ulisse, Costiera di Enea and Pontine Islands

7

LAZIO IN NUMBERS 378

Municipalities

5

UNESCO World Heritage Sites

87

Parks, Nature Reserves and Natural Monuments

6

Green cycle paths - greenways

35

Rivers

26

Lakes

28

Abbeys

8

Wine Trails

2

Oil Trails

4

Ways of Faith

An inter-regional project co-financed in accordance with Law 135/01 art. 5 par. 5 “Cultural and thematic itineraries in historical Italian towns - part 2”

Point your mobile device or QR code to link to the site www.visitlazio.com

IN THE SAME SERIES LAZIO ANDAR PER BORGHI First volume

LAZIO CAMMINI DI FEDE

LA VIA FRANCIGENA NEL NORD DEL LAZIO GUIDA DELL’OSPITALITÀ/ACCOMODATION GUIDEMAP

LAZIO CAMMINI DI FEDE

IL CAMMINO DI FRANCESCO NEL LAZIO GUIDA DELL’OSPITALITÀ/ACCOMODATION GUIDEMAP

LAZIO CAMMINI DI FEDE

IL CAMMINO DI BENEDETTO NEL LAZIO GUIDA DELL’OSPITALITÀ/ACCOMODATION GUIDEMAP

LAZIO CAMMINI DI FEDE

LA VIA FRANCIGENA NEL SUD DEL LAZIO DIRETTRICE PRENESTINA GUIDA DELL’OSPITALITÀ/ACCOMODATION GUIDEMAP

LAZIO CAMMINI DI FEDE

LA VIA FRANCIGENA NEL SUD DEL LAZIO DIRETTRICE APPIA GUIDA DELL’OSPITALITÀ/ACCOMODATION GUIDEMAP

LAZIO CAMMINI DI FEDE

IL CAMMINO DI FRANCESCO NEL LAZIO DA LABRO A ROMA