NUMBER 13, 2023
www.vintae.com IF WE WERE TO STOP DREAMING, WE WOULD NOT BE VINTAE
below 20. This happened just when the vineyards had scant water reserves, causing stress on the leaves in the drier areas. In September, the temperatures eased somewhat with the rains in the first half of the month. However, towards the end, we found ourselves in the midst of an extended Indian summer, which, instead of lasting a week, lingered for almost four, stretching from late September to mid-October. That’s favorable for the harvest because you can work without the stress of impending rain that might spoil the grapes, although the temperatures were excessive, reaching 30 degrees, when the ideal would have been not to exceed 25 degrees at that time. In summary, with some exceptions, it has been a warm and dry year, with the rains arriving at the right moments. How has the campaign unfolded, and what challenges have you encountered? In harvest season, having sunny weather is much more reassuring than dealing with a storm, but with such heat, the sugar content begins to rise. Since all our harvesting is done manually, the crews can only do so much (and they do a lot), reaching a point where you wish you could move faster than the ripening process.
INTERVIEW RAÚL ACHA
“In a year marked by uncertainty, timely rains have brought us a better vintage than we expected” The heat and humidity have challenged the vineyards throughout Spain in the 2023 harvest. Well-timed rainfall during crucial stages of the grapevine cycle has led to a fruitful harvest, especially in the later, higher-altitude, and cooler regions. We interviewed Raúl Acha, Technical Director of Vintae, to gain insight into the development of the grapevine cycle and harvest in our vineyards. How did the grapevine growth cycle go this year? The growing season has been quite uneven; if you were to visualize it on a graph, you’d see a sawtooth pattern. Throughout the season, we’ve seen dry spells alternating with rainy periods. We enjoyed several months of summer-like weather, particularly
in April and May. Then, June and early July brought unexpected humidity and cooler temperatures. Following that, a dry spell dominated July and August, only to be followed by an extremely wet September, making it an exceptionally rainy month. Despite it being a dry year, and certain areas experiencing some water deficit compared to the average, the rain has fallen at very opportune moments. The initial rains arrived right between late May and early July, precisely when the vineyard needs water the most. The September rains may have come a bit later than ideal, causing issues with botrytis in vines that were ahead in development. However, in later regions such as the high areas of Rioja Alta or Ribera del Duero, September was the perfect time for the water to arrive. In the temperature chart, you can also see sawtooth patterns. It’s been a warm year, albeit somewhat milder compared to 2022. We experienced a spring that felt more like summer in April and May, with temperatures soaring above the usual, pushing the growing cycle notably ahead. Parts of the region experienced disruptions due to frosts in April, extending into May 17th in places like Ribera soriana, where the cycle had to start anew. June brought a cooler spell, and both July and the first half of August were relatively pleasant. From the second half of August onward, things took a turn for the worse. Temperatures soared to around 40 degrees Celsius, and at night, they barely dipped
Moreover, in that heat, the grapes may enter the winery at temperatures that are less than ideal. When we harvest into crates, these are processed the next day, and with the coolness of the night, their temperature drops by a few degrees. However, when we harvest into trailers and process the grapes immediately, they might enter the winery a bit warmer. That’s why we have cooling equipment in the winery, to address any issues that may arise during harvests like these. Is Vintae’s strategy of consistently seeking vineyards in high-altitude and cool regions proving effective in these challenging and warm years? The luck we’ve had, or rather, the luck we’ve actively sought, is that having vineyards in high-altitude areas is proving extremely advantageous in these warm and dry years. For example, in 2023, our vineyards in Ribera or Rioja experienced a delayed ripening, and this has had two effects: firstly, the September rains arrived with the grapes still slightly greener, causing less harm to them. On the other hand, when the summer heat sets in alongside a scarcity of water, we find ourselves better shielded: enjoying cooler nights, days that are a bit less warm, and all of these factors contribute to a more balanced grape. How do you assess the vintage in terms of quantity and quality? With such a variable year, the experiences throughout these months have been quite diverse. In the exceptionally dry spring, there was a certain apprehension; the shoot growth was sluggish, the vine looked frail, and it was worrisome. The rains in June offered us a reprieve, and the vineyards transformed into lush greenery.
2/2023
2023 wines will be excellent—clean, with beautiful colors, a very clean nose, and mature tannins. Considering the uncertainties we’ve faced, they are looking very promising. They will be wines suitable for aging, both in the high regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, as well as the ‘Toros,’ which have also performed very well. The summer has been wonderful, but it took a turn in late August with the heat, followed by the September rains and the risk of botrytis. By late September, tranquility returned with dry weather. Even though the ripening increased by a few tenths each day, we could calmly plan the harvest without rain on the horizon. It has been a harvest marked by concern, with fears that the quality might not meet expectations. Yet, in my opinion, the grapes have proven to be healthy, showcasing a balanced acidity. Frankly, the results have surpassed initial expectations. If I were to compare it with the previous vintage, my preference would be for the 2023. Upon reaching the winery, fermentations were swift and very healthy—both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations unfolded spontaneously and easily, with very low volatile acidity. Therefore, we have wines in very good health. Regarding quantity, the dry spring and spring frosts in some plots ensured vine balance. There were no major excesses; it’s a year of lower quantity, but that has resulted in higher quality.
This vintage, you’ve encountered significant surprises in terms of quality, with vineyards displaying grapes in perfect condition next to other plots that weren’t as favorable. What explains these differences? When a vine is well-balanced and doesn’t carry an excessive grape load, it has consequences. A vine with high production, where berries are densely packed with limited room to grow, presents a stark contrast to vines featuring small, well-spaced clusters, petite berries, and even airflow within the cluster. This has a positive impact on quality and health. In a vineyard with lower grape yield, the berry’s skin tends to be thicker and more robust, making it less prone to breakage or fungal attacks. Conversely, when there is an excess of concentrated skin, it tends to be thinner and more susceptible to issues. In a vineyard with lower production, maturity is reached earlier, allowing for an earlier harvest. In contrast, higher-yield vineyards take longer to ripen, posing more risks. Old vines, typically self-regulating, achieve a perfect balance. They offer intrinsic quality and a natural equilibrium. These vines enjoy more room to thrive, with increased spacing between clusters. During challenging periods like drought, these vines, having explored many more cubic meters of soil, rely on their extensive root systems developed over decades. These roots seek water at greater depths, navigating through rock crevices, making their root systems well-prepared for adverse conditions. What will the 2023 vintage wines be like? Let’s venture a bit, though not too much, as of today (October 23), we already have some 2023 wines almost finished for bottling. The ones we harvested later have already completed malolactic fermentation, very quickly but very well. These wines show excellent health in analysis and a very clean nose. This year, the fermentations have concluded quite well, and sometimes, the end of the fermentation process is like the last kilometers of a marathon, which can be quite demanding. However, everything has gone very smoothly this year. I am pleased with what I have seen so far, and I believe the
On a personal level, how are harvests like this experienced, and how is the pressure handled? The harvest has been quite long, lasting for two months, and there comes a point where it seems to drag on. However, this year it has been very manageable for me. There were certain moments of enduring the strain and preventing stress from taking over. These periods of intense heat or excessive rain can sometimes prompt us to make bold decisions, but I am content with the results. The only thing I would change is being able to harvest some vines a bit earlier to have a slightly lower alcohol content. However, against the elements, it’s challenging to fight. When a heatwave, like the one we’ve experienced, arrives, maturation doesn’t stop, and we go at the pace we can. There comes a point where nothing can be done, and that would be the only thing I would have changed.
2023/3
VINTAE WINEMAKERS SPEAK 1 - How did the 2023 harvest unfold from a technical perspective, and what was the impact of the weather? 2 - How was the harvest in terms of quantity and quality in your region? 3 - What are the expectations for the wines of this vintage?
GALICIA
TORO
ATLANTIS
MATSU
IRIA OTERO
MARTÍN PADÍN
“The grapes have arrived with exceptional quality and health.” 1. The September rains have led to a swift and concentrated harvest, somewhat earlier than usual in Rías Baixas, and as anticipated in Valdeorras. The absence of rain in July and September allowed for grapes to come in with a high level of health quality. In Rías Baixas, the harvest has been marked by recurrent mildew attacks, notably intensified in early June owing to prolonged periods of rain. The rest of the summer was notably dry, preventing major issues. In the case of Valdeorras, the rains had a lesser impact on Godello, which was in a more advanced vegetative state and moderately resistant to mildew. Despite the summer drought, temperatures and sunlight were not exceptionally high, protecting the variety from the usual ‘sunburn.’ The absence of powdery mildew and botrytis attacks has benefited the grapes. In this region, the grape’s quality and health have been exceptional. 2. Primarily due to the mentioned fungal attacks, the quantity in Rías Baixas has been somewhat scarce. In Valdeorras, however, production has been somewhat higher than in recent years. Albariño this year has a slightly lower alcohol content and slightly higher acidity. For Godello, we have excellent grape quality and health. 3. The Godello will be elegant, highly concentrated, with a slightly elevated alcohol content balanced by good acidity, notably mineral, and expressive. As for Albariño, it will be a clean, citrusy, and fruity wine, very fresh in profile.
OCTAVIO MADURGA HACIENDA LÓPEZ DE HARO
“We started the harvest at the optimal moment, and that has spared us problems and ensured healthy grapes.” 1. Since bud bleeding, the vineyard was slightly ahead until flowering, when it leveled off compared to previous years, due to moderate temperatures. However, during veraison, there was another advancement, but in Rioja Alta, it wasn’t excessively significant. This harvest has posed challenges due to the weather, but we’ve managed it very well, minimizing issues. The most delicate moment arrived with the September rains, coupled with heat, just as the grapes were reaching maturity. As is customary every year, choosing the right time to commence the harvest has been crucial, and our technical director, Raúl Acha, with his expertise in the vineyard and interpretation of climatology, has once again been 100% accurate. We started without undue delay, and thanks to that, we’ve avoided problems of excessive ripeness and rot. 2. In terms of quantity, the harvest has been slightly lower than the previous vintage. Regarding quality, it’s impossible to generalize in Rioja, as the moment chosen to start the harvest has been decisive. In López de Haro, the quality has been good since we initiated the harvest at the optimal moment. 3. According to the initial analyses post-alcoholic fermentation, the results are very positive, and we anticipate wines of high quality, with moderate alcohol content, high color intensity, and polyphenol levels. In tasting, they follow the same pattern, being wines with depth, balance, and cleanliness.
IÑAKI OLABERRI LE NATUREL/AROA
“It has been a normal harvest in terms of quantity, and we anticipate good quality.”
“They will be warmer wines, yet at the same time, they maintain freshness and natural acidity.” 1. Here in Toro, it has been a very rainy year. We experienced significant precipitation in winter, followed by a warm spring with quite a bit of rain in May and June. The summer was very warm, with minimal temperature fluctuations, leading to an early harvest that began on September 11, about ten days ahead of a typical harvest in this region. The rain in September prompted a slight delay in harvesting the red grapes but also brought a much more balanced grape. 2. The yield this year has been affected but not excessively; it has been more or less a normal harvest. In my opinion, it’s going to be a very good harvest; I really like the wines. 3. Based on what we observed during the harvest and how the wines are evolving, it seems like a vintage with slightly higher alcohol content, yet at the same time, they exhibit that freshness, that natural acidity, making the wine much more aromatic than in previous years. It’s still early to make a definitive statement, but we like what we’re seeing—plenty of fruit, wines with good structure, full-bodied, from an excellent vintage, in my opinion.
1. The harvest, as expected, has been heavily influenced by the weather. Coming from a prolonged drought that we anticipated would accelerate the harvest, September brought rain, prompting us to start picking white grapes. We had to pause due to the rain, delaying the start of harvesting red varieties, which we finally began on September 25, extending until October 6. Furthermore, throughout September, we experienced southern winds, posing a significant risk of botrytis, although we managed to avoid it. 2. Sugar levels are not excessively high, but acidity has been maintained, giving us hope for good quality. Quantity-wise, it has been a typical harvest. 3. Despite facing a challenging and uncertain harvest, the wines are showing exceptionally well. The whites are aromatically rich, and the reds have completed their fermentations perfectly, resulting in a highly positive evaluation.
LA RIOJA
PEDRO BALDA CALAHORRA
VICTORIA GARCÍA LIBALIS
RIOJA
NAVARRA
“The harvest has been a challenge, but we have achieved great quality and unchanged freshness.” 1. This harvest has been a challenge. We maintained the systematic approach of previous years regarding harvesting by variety and desired sugar levels, but it was somewhat more difficult due to a certain imbalance in ripening in the field and higher temperatures than usual for this time of year. However, the expertise of Maetierra’s entire technical team successfully coordinated the harvest entries, mitigating thermal challenges and ensuring uniformity. The weather conditions dictated the start and pace of the harvest. The scarcity of water in summer and the expected high temperatures during the harvest raised concerns, even suggesting a record start date for the harvest. However, the early morning temperatures did not align with this idea, and there was no noticeable sharp increase in ripening due to the lack of rain. So, with a constant eye on the thermometer and the grapes, it eventually started a day earlier than in 2022. The early morning temperatures were higher than in previous years, and to ensure their optimal entry into the winery, fewer kilograms of grapes were harvested per day, allowing for a faster processing. 2. In terms of quantity, we have slightly lower values than in 2022. In this region, throughout the summer (June, July, and the early days of August), we experienced temperatures more than favorable, with even cooler nights than last year, contributing to excellent quality and enhanced aromatic characteristics. 3. The resulting wines will be structured, maintaining the same alcohol levels, ensuring freshness, and enhancing the aromatic profile.
PANDEMONIUM
“The commitment to mountain cultivation for crafting sparkling wines is a guarantee to mitigate heatwaves.” 1. The factor that most influenced this vintage was the tremendous heatwave in the last week of August, which, after two rainless months, stressed the vines to the limit. However, mountain cultivation offers that unique advantage not found in valley cultivation, being surrounded by vast forested areas and having the altitude—two crucial factors to cushion the impact of such unusually high temperatures. This year has been a compelling example of how the dedication to mountain cultivation for crafting sparkling wines serves as a safeguard against heatwaves and all the negative consequences that elevated temperatures can inflict on wines. It is the best way to naturally achieve balanced and high-quality wines. 2. From a production standpoint, it has been a normal year, although the Garnachas (white and red) exhibited a more intense ripening than usual, as 40 liters of precipitation were recorded during the flowering period (June 18), in addition to another 50 liters the previous week. Nevertheless, these rains were very positive, given that it was an overall dry year, and the accumulated precipitation until September barely reached 300 l/m2. Qualitatively, we are dealing with a year of great health, thanks to the limited rainfall, resulting in very clean base wines. 3. Regarding general parameters, we have moderate alcohol levels, ideal for base wines, with excellent acidity, although the pH has been slightly higher than in previous vintages, a consequence of the heatwave in the final ripening phase. Perhaps this will affect the time of the aging phase, shortening it slightly, but we will only see this over the coming years.
4/2023
GRAPE GROWERS
A challenging yet rewarding campaign for the grape growers To gain a more comprehensive perspective on the campaign, we cannot overlook those who dedicate themselves throughout the year to caring for the vineyards. We spoke with grape growers from Toro, Ribera del Duero, and Rioja to understand their experiences during the harvest and their expectations for the 2023 vintage.
slightly lower production compared to the previous year to the impact of June’s precipitation on fruit set.
“The grape quality has been perfect, and we hope that translates into the wines,” states Amancio Moyano, an experienced grape grower from Toro. “Here, we conduct a very measured harvest, and the health of the grapes has been absolute,” he concludes.
The journey had its setbacks from the start: frost before bud break, serious issues due to rain during treatment application, more frost, hail in the summer... “It seemed like there wouldn’t be any grapes for the harvest,” she asserts. September arrived, and the surviving grapes barely had weight. “But September gifted us with some rains that made a radical turn.” Thanks to the water and the daynight temperature contrast enjoyed in the Páramo de Corcos, the ripening was perfect, and the result has been “something we could never have imagined
In the Zamora denomination, the drought in the vineyard has been scarcely noticeable. “In winter, we had rains, and also in June, so the vineyard faced no difficulties,” explains Moyano who attributes a
In the Burgos region of Ribera del Duero, from Moradillo de Roa, Eva de Diego emphatically states, “This campaign hasn’t been just another campaign; it has been ‘THE CAMPAIGN.’ It’s been tough but incredibly rewarding. From my perspective, it has brought out the best in both the vineyards and the grape growers.
Praise for Optimism
By Richi Arambarri, Vintae CEO
“An optimist is someone who sees an opportunity in every disaster, a pessimist is someone who sees a disaster in every opportunity.” Winston Churchill Pessimism is quite common among those of us who make a living from the land. It is true that our work depends on external factors beyond our control, and that uncertainty is what probably leads to discouragement at times. This year, the wine industry has been particularly swayed by pessimism, fueled mainly by the adverse weather conditions of this season. We’ve encountered grape growers, with silver hair, talking about “the worst harvest of their lives,” professionals who have experienced much more challenging vintages for the vineyards in the past, during the tough decades of the ‘70s or ‘80s, and even through the ‘90s. Those familiar with Vintae already know we tend to see the glass half full (of good wine) and while the 2023 harvest won’t be remembered as the vintage of
in a campaign like this,” declares the grape grower. “Blessed drought for old vines,” says Fernando García Navaridas, who tends to his vineyards in the Alto Najerilla (Rioja) like a garden. “With no rain, diseases don’t attack, and we avoid treatments. This year, I stopped treating at the end of June, almost 100 days before harvesting, and that makes a noticeable difference in the wine, a lot,” he explains. He states that this harvest, overall, has been challenging. In some vineyards, finishing the ripening was difficult due to water scarcity and excessive heat. “In vineyards with a lot of grapes, it was challenging to ripen, but that wasn’t my case. Fortunately, having old vines with low yields, they withstood the drought very well, and we avoided shoot removal, so it was perfect,” he affirms. They conducted a staggered and well-controlled harvest, where “the grapes were extremely healthy, with good sugar levels, and by the time problems arose with the terrible heat, we had already finished.
the century, we certainly believe it’s far from meeting catastrophic predictions and our expectations about the wines are moving in a very positive direction. It has been a strange year, undoubtedly. In some areas, heat and humidity have forced us to be alert and make decisions with little time to spare, making fieldwork throughout the cycle crucial for achieving good results, even more so this year. The terroir, that concept we try to explain and convey in our wines, is not only a combination of land, soil, and grapevine genetics. There is a fourth, absolutely decisive pillar: the human factor, the grape grower. In 2023, it has been more crucial than ever because, under equal conditions, vineyards with meticulous practices, controlled yields, and well-spaced clusters have faced challenges with more effective strategies than others. The result of all this work gives us plenty of reasons for optimism. You can read in these very pages what our winemakers share—the wines of 2023 are sailing smoothly through their fermentations, and from what we’ve already tasted, it’s shaping up to be a very good vintage at our winery. At Vintae, we will continue to dream and work to turn every obstacle into an opportunity because here, we prefer to empty our glasses through a toast.
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