ARCTIC GOLD

Clockwise, from top left: The traditional alcoholic spirit, Bergens Aquavit; rustic interiors found in Bergen, Norway; the Nordic sauna on board Viking Jupiter; the splendid mountainous view from Geiranger and Eagle’s Bend; the Spa offers a heavenly place to relax or enjoy a tranquil dip; Frances riding her horse Silfi; a gloriously sunny day in Tromsø, the largest city in northern Norway; guests can play a tune or two on the grand piano in the Atrium

When travel writer Frances Marcellin set off on an adventure in Norway, she had no idea that the cruise would have such a profound impact on her life

Above: Viking Jupiter taking in views of deep-cut fjords along the pristine Norwegian coastline Horse riding on a deserted beach had been a dream of mine ever since I was a little girl hacking out ponies on weekends in the UK. I never thought the day would come and I’d never imagined it would happen in Norway. Yet, here I was riding Silfri, a sweet-natured Icelandic horse whose name described his tufty silvery blonde mane, along a stunning white-sand beach. I was in Hov, on the tranquil island of Gimsøy in the Lofoten archipelago, where less than 200 people live.

Since falling from my horse just over a decade ago and breaking two ‘wing’ bones in my lumbar spine, I hadn’t ridden at all. It had resulted in six weeks of life altering bed rest and I became too frightened to ride again for fear of risking a similar injury or worse.

But when I read about Viking’s horse riding excursion on the Into the Midnight Sun cruise, I felt it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity too good too miss.

It was then that I realised how a cruise experience can offer you just the right level of adventure, exploration and relaxation for your needs. I wasn’t ready for official riding lessons at the local equestrian centre or a full-blown adventure holiday, but since discovering a passion for trail running earlier on in the year, my fitness and confidence had increased considerably, so it felt like the right moment to finally face my fear.

The ride would only take a couple of hours, I’d told myself, so even if I couldn’t overcome my anxiety I wouldn’t have to be in that situation for long. Afterwards I could relax on the new and luxurious Viking Jupiter.

The morning brought a panoramic tour of Lofoten, which included sightseeing to spellbinding Haukland Beach, one of the most picturesque beaches in Norway, and to Ballstad, a scenic and traditional fishing village.

Later that day, with the dramatic setting of Lofoten’s mountains behind and the beach to ourselves, I learned that one of my fellow riders hadn’t ridden a horse since she was in her twenties. She felt excited to be on horseback again and was so moved by the experience of riding in the beguiling seaside location.

We also rode trails that showed us more of this wild island, from the fairy tale-like Norwegian turf

Above: The charming fishing village of Ballstad, located on a small island off the tip of the island of Vestvågøya in the Lofoten archipelago torvtak roofs to the ancient wild trails, which 1,000 years ago were covered by Viking Chieftain Tore Hjort. Every single moment was an absolute pleasure.

Afterwards, we were driven back to the ship and, still buzzing from my accomplishment and with slightly stiff knees, I treated myself to a Nordic spa ritual. I went from hammam to Snow Grotto three times – not only is it genuinely rejuvenating, but hot and cold bathing actually improves your immune system. Viking’s spa area is the most heavenly place to relax and focus on your wellbeing.

I wasn’t sure how much time I should be spending in each environment, but the truth is that there isn’t a set number as it varies from person to person. The LivNordic Spa manager told me that some people can sit for 20 minutes in a steam room before they start breaking a sweat, whereas others sit for five minutes yet sweat like they’ve been running a marathon. It’s the same for the Snow Grotto, some can stay for ten minutes, but others have chattering teeth after just 30 seconds.

“We, at LivNordic, encourage you to always follow your inner voice – be present and when you feel enough is enough you go out from one source and straight into the opposite,” she explained. “It is supposed to be a relaxing experience, a sanctuary from the outer world where you can disconnect and just allow nature to cleanse your body, mind and soul.”

Benefits include improved circulation, less stress and anxiety, and the release of endorphins, which reduces pain and promotes that feel good sensation. Rubbing snow into my knees even relieved their stiffness. I was hooked.

That evening I wanted to connect more with the place that had found its way into my heart,

and tried the Destination Menu at The Restaurant. The Norwegian haddock fishcakes were delicious and handsomely crowned with colourful raw vegetable strips. Reindeer patties with onion confit were also on the menu. I’ve always loved spending time with horses and dogs, which is why the first excursion I’d chosen on this trip was a husky-trekking session. We’d travelled The morning brought a panoramic tour to Kvaløya – known of Lofoten, which included sightseeing to as Whale Island – to the Tromsø beautiful Haukland Beach Villmarksenter where 300 huskies live. Our mission was to walk them through the countryside so that they keep up their fitness levels for the forthcoming sledding season – but it hands down gave me a workout too. With their leads attached to waist belts, our group speedily hiked with seven dogs. We were not as helpful as quad bikes though, our guide told us, which can train 14 dogs at a time, but it is far better for these dogs to socialise with humans in this way. Back on board, lunch out on

deck in the Arctic air at the World Café beckoned. With views of Tromsø Bridge across the waters to the gleaming white Arctic Cathedral – which resembled the shell-like roof of Sydney Opera House – there was nowhere else on earth I wanted to be.

After an energising sushi lunch, I was ready to embark on my own adventure. Having read that you can travel by cable car up to Storsteinen (which is one of the best places to see the midnight sun), part of Mount Fløya, I wanted to run up the 671-metre mountain by myself and see how far I could get. The views were some of the best over Tromsø and it was invigorating exploring the town and the mountain on foot.

I found that in Bergen the runseeing method worked well too. I mapped out a route that covered about 10km (6.2 miles) to take me past all the places I wanted to see. It included Bryggen (the colourful dock and UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979), the famous fish market and the old Nordnes neighbourhood. This is my favourite part of Bergen and I visit it every time I’m in this city – I adore the pretty wooden houses and quiet neighbourhood streets.

There are both active and cultural excursions available in Bergen, including flightseeing over fjords and glaciers, experiencing a local Norwegian farm and a group hike past the beautiful Skomakerdiket lake and up Mount Fløien for views over the town.

I crave panoramic splendour and one of the most breathtaking moments of the trip had been at Eagle’s Bend viewpoint in Geiranger. We were so lucky to visit in sunny weather and cloudless skies, it meant we could soak up the awe-inspiring views of the harbour and S-shaped Geirangerfjord. As we cruised out our captain made sure that everyone on board got to see the gushing 400-metre Seven Sisters waterfall by turning the ship 360 degrees in the fjord. It’s true what they say, that from a distance it looks like the hair of seven women. That night we dined at The Chef’s Table to experience more Norwegian delights. The reindeer consommé was paired with Pinot Noir and there was also fårikål (sheep in cabbage) - Norway’s national dish. Dessert

We were so lucky to visit in sunny was cloudberry soup, weather and cloudless skies, it meant we these highly prized amber fruits look like could soak up the awe-inspiring views raspberries and grow in marshlands, for this reason some call them Arctic Gold. I’ve coined this term for my own use too. Since I returned from my trip to Norway, I’ve started horse riding again and ran my first marathon, so I am feeling more confident than I have done in years. Now, if I get asked to describe my experience on Viking’s Into the Midnight Sun cruise, I tell them it was pure Arctic Gold. A 15-day 2021 Into the Midnight 15-day Into the Midnight Sun itinerary Sun trip starts from £5,290pp. from $9,995pp in Veranda stateroom.