My Rouen

Viking’s Laurent Ferros recalls his favourite memories of growing up in the French city of Rouen

My relationship with the northern French city of Rouen spans my entire life. I was born and raised there and completed my studies there. Although I have since moved to London, I have fond memories of my childhood, especially La Foire St. Romain, a huge funfair which takes place on the docks of Rouen from around mid-October through to November.

In terms of the various corners of the city, I think the most beautiful part to visit is Le Quartier Saint Maclou with its fantastic church, one of the best examples of the flamboyant style of gothic French architecture. This part of the city has some brilliant old houses and narrow, cobbled streets. It’s here where you’ll also find the Aitre Saint Maclau – an old cemetery dating back to the 16th century. Walking around Old Rouen you really can feel the history and it’s no wonder it’s referred to as ‘la vile aux cent clochers’ (the city of 100 spires). The city’s architecture is so stunning in fact, that the Impressionist artist Monet famously painted over 30 paintings of the cathedral, each capturing the church at different points of the day and reflecting the light so brilliantly in different ways.

Another favourite spot of mine is the pedestrian Rue du Gros Horloge – one of the most picturesque of historic Rouen with its old cobblestones and age-old half-timbered houses. It’s now a modern shopping street. Aside from soaking up the architecture, there are plenty of fun-filled activities to while away the time in the city. We have a collection of small museums but the main one is the Museum of Fine Arts of Rouen which houses important collections from the 15th century, plus Monet’s depictions of the cathedral.

The docks are a new area that has been developed to celebrate the centenary of the French Revolution and a great way to spend the day is by cycling along the winding river Seine that divides the city in two. If you find yourself on the left bank of the river, make sure you visit Le Jardin des Plantes for a stroll through beautifully manicured lawns. I’d also recommend a visit to the Palais de Justice, the elaborately gothic law courts that were just a shell by the end of the Second World War, but which have been restored to their 16th-century glory.

Any history aficionado should also visit the tower where Joan of Arc was imprisoned. It was here she was notoriously burned at the stake.

The city is an excellent place for food lovers, too. There are bistros all over the city and in the summer evenings diners spill out onto the cobbles. There are restaurants with Michelin stars, but give me a classic croque monsieur or croque madame (hot sandwich) and I’m in French food heaven. Rouen is also renowned for its camembert and tarte tatin – an upside down apple tart, best served with a splash of calvados, of course.

Clockwise, from

below: Murals adorn historic stone walls; Laurent Ferros grew up in the city of Rouen; the architecture of Rouen is stunning

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