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The most comprehensive guide available to bouldering in the Peak District. Thousands of boulder problems, from Font 3 to 8b+, on three different rock types. Written by local boulderers and supported by many more, all with a passion for – and an encyclopedic knowledge of – bouldering in the Peak.

PEAK DISTRICT BOULDERING

PEAK DISTRICT BOULDERING

PEAK DISTRICT BOULDERING Rupert Davies John Coefield Jon Barton

‘Although there are many bouldering venues around the world, I have yet to come across one that stirs up such feelings in both locals and foreigners as the Peak District. I feel very fortunate to have lived on its doorstep these past 25 years.’ Ben Moon ISBN 9781906148270

9 7 8 1906 148270 >

£25.00

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Ben Tetler on Desperot, Chatsworth Edge  PHOTO: Adam Long

2

Peak district bouldering

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Peak District Bouldering Contents

All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher.

Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 What’s in and what’s not . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Safety statement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Behaviour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Respecting the rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Names and first ascents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Stars/Grades/Map key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Useful information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Other publications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Peak District area map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

ISBN: 9781906148270

Eastern Crags

C  opyright© 2011 Vertebrate Graphics Ltd, Rupert Davies, John Coefield & Jon Barton Published by Vertebrate Publishing

Cover photo: Dave Norton on Low Rider, Stanage Far Left. Photo: Dave Parry. All other photos as credited. Designed & produced by Nathan Ryder www.v-graphics.co.uk Printed in China.

Wharncliffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Bell Hagg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Fox Hagg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Wyming Brook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Rivelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Derwent Edges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Smallfield Roof & Hurkling Stones . . . . 52 Bamford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Stanage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Far Left . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Middle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 The Buckstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 The Plantation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Far Right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Popular End & Carhead Rocks . . . . . . . . . 104 Burbage Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Burbage Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Burbage North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Burbage South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Burbage South Boulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Burbage West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Higgar Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Guplets Wall, Carl Wark & The Sheepfold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

Houndkirk Tor & Ox Stones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Millstone Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Millstone Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mother Cap, Mother’s Pet Rock & Owler Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Secret Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . White Edge, Yarncliffe Quarry & Padley Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Froggatt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Curbar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baslow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gardom’s Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gardom’s North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gardom’s Crag Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gardom’s South & Moorside Rocks . . Birchen Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stump Hole Cavern, Chatsworth Edge & Dobb Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cratcliffe Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cratcliffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Robin Hood’s Stride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clifftop Boulder & Harthill Quarry . Eagle Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rowtor Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stanton Moor & Stanton in the Woods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Amber Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eastwood Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cocking Tor & Turning Stone Edge . Bradley Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Matlock Area – North . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Beeley Hilltop: Rabbit Warren & Harland Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Upper Matlock Quarries: Bank Quarry & Jackson Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Matlock Area – South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Black Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chasecliffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shining Cliff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

156 160 162 165 170 174 176 194 210 222 224 228 232 236 244 246 248 258 266 268 270 276 288 290 294 300 302 304 306 308 310 314 315

Western Crags

The Churnet Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Ousal Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Dimmings Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 The Roaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Spring Boulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Lower Tier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Upper Tier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Roaches Skyline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 The Five Clouds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Nth Cloud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Hen Cloud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Gradbach Hill & Bosley Cloud . . . . . . . . . 368 Ramshaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 Newstones & Baldstones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 Gib Torr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Wolf Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 New Mills Torrs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Hobson Moor Quarry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 Tintwistle Knarr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Black Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 Wimberry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414

Limestone Crags

Stoney Middleton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 Tideswell Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 Castleton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Rubicon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 Raven Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 Blackwell Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 Alport Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Nuda’s Tartan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Rheinstor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461 Harborough Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 The Tube – Dove Dale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Graded List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476

contents

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Page

Peak District Area Map Western Crags 318 332 370 378 386 390 394 398 402 408 414

Page

Eastern Crags 20 The Churnet Valley . .......................................... 21 The Roaches ....................................................... 22 Ramshaw ........................................................... 23 Newstones & Baldstones ................................. 24 Gib Torr ............................................................... 25 Wolf Edge . ......................................................... 26 New Mills Torrs .................................................. 27 Hobson Moor Quarry ........................................ 28 Tintwistle Knarr . ............................................... 29 Black Tor ............................................................. 30 Wimberry ...........................................................

Limestone Crags 426 438 439 440 444 452 458 462 468

31 Stoney Middleton . ............................................ 32 Tideswell Dale ................................................... 33 Castleton . .......................................................... 34 Rubicon . ............................................................. 35 Raven Tor ............................................................ 36 Blackwell Dale ................................................... 37 Alport Area . ....................................................... 38 Harborough Rocks . ........................................... 39 The Tube – Dove Dale .......................................

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1 Wharncliffe .......................................................... 20 2 Bell Hagg .............................................................. 28 3 Rivelin ................................................................... 34 4 Derwent Edges .................................................... 40 5 Bamford ............................................................... 54 6 Stanage ................................................................ 58 7 Burbage Valley ................................................... 106 8 Millstone Area ................................................... 160 9 White Edge, Yarncliffe Quarry & Padley Gorge . ................................................ 174 10 Froggatt . ............................................................ 176 11 Curbar . ............................................................... 194 12 Baslow ................................................................ 210 13 Gardom’s Edge . ................................................. 222 14 Birchen Edge ...................................................... 236 15 Stump Hole Cavern, Chatsworth Edge & Dobb Edge . ..................................................... 244 16 Cratcliffe Area .................................................... 246 17 Amber Valley . .................................................... 288 18 Matlock Area – North ....................................... 302 19 Matlock Area – South ....................................... 308

BEN O’CONNOR ON SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL  Photo: TIM RUSSON

Hathersage


27

26

21

30

25

28

24 23 22

29

20

33

36 35

39

32 34

4

5

37

31

16

6

38

8 9

7

10 11 12

3

13 14 15

2

18

1

19

17

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ANDY HARRIS ON GRITSTONE MEGAMIX  PHOTO: RUPERT DAVIES

236

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Birchen Edge

Access and Approach

Better known as a low-grade route crag than a bouldering venue, Birchen Edge now has a number of very good boulder problems. In addition, many of the shorter routes have been re-evaluated while wearing bouldering goggles, resulting in a great circuit with problems from very easy to 7c+. The better problems along the edge are in the 6b–7c+ range while the Three Ships boulders provide good easier problems in a lovely setting.

Park in the public car park next to the Robin Hood Inn, on the B6050, just off the A619, or in the over-flow in the field. Only use the pub car park if using the pub. Walk a short distance up the B6050 and take an obvious path on the left. This leads up to the crag after a 10–15 minute walk. The crag is visible on the right of the path. The Three Ships boulders are situated on top of the crag, behind the monument. STO CKS BRID GE

A6102

M (ST ORT RIN IM ES) ER RD .

Wharncliffe

Derwent Edge

SHEFFIELD A57

Rivelin Bell Hagg

0 miles

1

RINGINGLOW

0 km

1

A62 1

Stanage

BAMFORD

Burbage Valley

Eagle Stone

Millstone Area

GRINDLEFORD

Gardom’s North 21 A6

White Edge Froggatt Curbar

B60 51

Gardom’s Main Edge

1 A6

Stoney Middleton

Baslow Edge

5 A62

Birchen Edge

A6 21

HATHERSAGE

A623

B6 00 1

Baslow

A6

Gardom’s South

Gardom’s

A6 19

BASLOW

BUXTO N

BAKEWELL

SHEFFI ELD

GLOSSOP

Bamford

M1

Birchen A619

CHESTERFIELD

Chatsworth & Dobb Edge

Stump Hole ROBIN Cavern HOOD INN

A619

BASLOW

Chatsworth Edge 32 A6

CK LO AT M

Moorside Rocks

Dobb Edge

CH ES TE RF IEL D

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The Three Ships

Three excellent boulders with easy problems up to 6b and perfect, flat grassy landings. Endless variations can be climbed. The main lines are described. Mind the ledge above the Defiance and Royal Soverin boulders.

Victory

1 Orion  5+ The scoop. Awkward. 2 Neptune  4 Sidepulls right of the scoop. 3 Euryalus  4 The left side of the front face, finishing at the bowl. Sit-start at 4+. 4 V for Victory  3+  Û Straight up past the chipped ‘Victory’. A line just right of the ‘Y’ in Victory is 4. 5 Prow Left  4  Û The left side of the prow, finishing with the crack. 6 Prow Right  4+  Û The prow, staying right, from a sit-start. Dyno from a sit-start to the top at 5+. Double dyno at 6a.

THREE SHIPS

NELSON’S MONUMENT

THE CABIN

TECHNICAL GENIUS AREA

HORNBLOWER AREA COPENHAGEN WALL

238

SEASICK ARÊTE

SARAH DAVIES ON TENERIFE  PHOTO: RUPERT DAVIES

7 Victor’s Ledge  3 Make a move to the top and mantel out.

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Defiance

Royal Soverin

9 St Vincent  4+  Û Sit-start into the crack.

14 Bilge  4 Sit-start the arête. Starting up Royal and traversing right to finish up Bilge is 5.

10 Calvi  4+ The scoop.

15 Buccaneer  4 Sit-start the arête right again.

11 Aboukir  4 The wall to a sloping dish finish.

16 Orlop  5 Sit-start the overhang at the left side of the big roof and pull up to more big holds.

8 Finisterre  3+ The wall past the chipped ‘Defiance’.

13 Royal  4+ Sit-start the wall.

12 Tenerife  4+  Ù Sit-start the prow/bulge on the right. A rare thing: a good, steep easy problem.

2

1

7

16

VICTORY

DEFIANCE

ROYAL SOVERIN

8

12

3

9 4

13 14

6 10

15

11

5

CRAG 30M

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The Edge

Technical Genius Area

The problems on the edge itself start at the left-hand end, behind a pinnacle. See topo on p238.

The Cabin

On the edge in front of, and to the right of, The Cabin. 5 Kiss Me Arsee  7a  Û Sit-start the left arête of the block. Very good.

Situated on the rear of the pinnacle next to the scramble to the top of the edge. Two or more pads are useful.

6 Kiss Me Softly  6a+ Sit-start the right arête.

1

7 Roger the Cabin Boy  6c The left arête from a sit-start, using anything in reach on the block.

 isabled Seaman  6a+ D The left arête.

8 Technical Genius  7a  Û Start matched on the rounded flake and pull to slopers. 7a+ from a sit-start. Mark Katz

2 Cabin Boy  7a  Û Dyno from crimps to top. 6c with the sidepull. 3

L og  5 The right arête.

4 Dan’s Arête  6c+ Situated on a block down and left (when looking at the edge) from the Cabin Boy pinnacle. Climb the left face and arête from a sit-start.

2 1 3

7

5

8

6

4 240

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Hornblower Area

9 Gritstone Megamix  7a  Ù Cross the roof on the left and climb the wall above. Highball. See photo on p236. John Allen 10 Gritstone Mashup Mix  7a+ As for Gritstone Megamix to the lip, then traverse the lip left to finish up the arête. Highball. Ben Bransby 11 HMS Daring  7b+  Ù The excellent highball arête, climbed on the left. Bob Smith

14 Oarsman Arête  6b+ The left arête and crack. 6c from sitting. 15 Oarsman  6b+  Û Layback the crack on its right. Sit-start is 7a+ (no footblock left of the crack). Mark Stokes 16 ‘Oar ‘Ouse/Hornblower Left-hand  7a The wall between Hornblower and Oarsman. Start with right hand in the crack of Hornblower. Escape left at the break or finish above.

12 Splendide Audax  7c  Û The arête on the right-hand side. Deadpoint to a pocket. Ben Bransby

17 Hornblower  6c  Ù The wall left of the prow, starting left hand in the low crack/seam. Finish up the easy but high slabs above.

13 Thing on a Spring  6c+  Û The wall immediately left of the gulley. Sit-start on undercuts, up to slopey crimps and pop for the break.

18 Obstructive Pensioner  7a+  Û The roof and hanging prow, starting on the break under the roof. A right-hand variation climbs up slopers on the right arête of the prow at the same grade. Nik Jennings 19 Jumpers for Trousers  7c+  Û The wall right of the prow, starting under the roof. The problem does not use the holds on the arête to the left, nor the big flake to the right. Ben Bransby

10

9

11

12

13

17 14 15

18

19

16

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Copenhagen Wall

20 Copenhagen Corner  4  Û The flakey sidewall. 21 Scandiarête  6a The left arête of Copenhagen Wall, starting on the right-hand side. 22 Dane’s Delight  5 Span between two breaks and up. Dane’s Disgust (5) climbs the wall to the right, past the flake, while Carlsberg Export (6b+) climbs the wall right again, without any of the good flakes or pockets. 23 MP3  7b  Û Start under the roof, span to polished slopers then left to a larger polished hold. Rock/span to the break and finish up the wall above. 24 Mermaid  7c Start as for MP3 to the big polished hold, but continue to traverse left via a poor pinch and slopers to finish up the wall 2m right of the arête. Mark Evans

24 20

22 21

242

23

SARAH DAVIES ON COPENHAGEN CORNER  PHOTO: RUPERT DAVIES

25 Chasing the Dragon  7c Something of an enigma. The problem is found on the slabby, undercut boulder right of, and below, Copenhagen wall (while facing Baslow). Sit-start on the left side of the long pod under the lip, traverse right, dyno for a flake and finish up the right arête. Mark Evans

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26 Lowside  6c+  Û A low start to the arête, reaching out to crimps on the lip and then around left to the flake. 27 The Buccaneer  7a Lean across to the sloping pocket at 10ft (and the crack if you can reach) from the block on the right. Pull boldly up to better holds in the hanging crack. Not a great landing, sadly.

Seasick Arete

30 Seasick Arête  4+  Ù The polished arête bears the scars of its classic status. Ernie Marshall 31 Seasick Slab  4  Û The wall to the right.

The Brigand  7c+ A direct start to The Buccaneer, from really poor holds below. Mark Katz 28 Sodomy  6c  Û Around to the right is an undercut, slabby buttress. Traverse the lip from right to left on pockets, finishing up before the crack/arête. 29 M  en United  6a 15m below and to the right of The Brigand is a lone obelisk. Climb the left arête on the right-hand side.

27 28

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26 30

eastern crags – Birchen edge

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Peak District Bouldering Guidebook Sample