Chapter 1Building a state-of-the-art injection- 6 moulded kit straight from the box
Chapter 2Building a new generation limited-run kit 23
Chapter 3Working with resin conversions 42
Chapter 4Improving a simple snap-together kit 55
Chapter 5Working with large-scale resin kits 75
Chapter 6Building a current generation long-run injection-80 moulded kit
Chapter 7Upgrading an older kit with resin cockpit and 90 wing fold
Chapter 8Converting a model kit the old-fashioned way99
Chapter 9Kitbashing two mediocre kits for a better result119
Chapter 10Improving detail on an accurate injection-moulded133 plastic kit
Chapter 11Upgrade and conversion using resin and photo-etch150
Chapter 12Adding detail to an older kit 174
Chapter 13Sources and references
I NTRODUCTION
Building scale model aircraft is an absorbing pastime that can encompass a broad range of interests and skills. A proficiently wrought scale model can evoke a period in history, or represent an attractive addition to the mantelpiece.
Despite competition from hi-tech leisure pursuits and the spiralling cost of mainstream manufacturing, the hobby of scale aircraft modelling has reached a pinnacle of variety and quality. Thanks to new short-run plastic
injection-moulding technologies and the superiority of resin details, modellers in the 21st century can build an impressive replica of almost any military aircraft that ever flew.
With the emergence of the Internet, we have access to technical and historical resources that earlier generations could only dream of. The Internet also puts us in real-time contact with other modellers and historians across the globe. There has never been a better time to build plastic models. It would appear that there is a new modelling sunrise in the east –both Eastern Europe and Asia. Eastern Europe, and the Czech Republic in particular, has long been a rich source of limited-run kits and aftermarket accessories for desirable, rare and esoteric aircraft subjects. From the years before the fall of the Iron Curtain, companies such as MPM and Eduard
produced kits in vacform, resin and low-pressure injection-moulded plastic. Back in the 20th century, most of these kits were pretty challenging to build and quite basic in their presentation, leaving the addition of detail parts up to the modeller. Today, we are hard pressed to pick out the products of these companies from those of some long-established model companies from the west. This is a genuinely new category of plastic models – no longer the rough representations of past years. What this new generation of limited-run models lacks in terms of locating pins, they more than make up for with the provision of resin and photo-etched detail parts, high-quality markings and previously unavailable subjects. Some proficiency is still required, but these kits are not beyond the skill of the moderately experienced modeller.
In the last decade, China’s hobby industry has been transformed from a producer of toys to a major modelling force to be reckoned with. Companies such as Trumpeter and Hobby Boss are churning out an unprecedented number of new releases with an emphasis on large-scale and spectacular subjects. This period is not without its growing pains, as the Chinese companies in particular struggle with chronic accuracy problems and inconsistent pricing policy. However, these issues will likely be ironed out in the coming years.
Meanwhile, the traditional market leaders such as Tamiya and Hasegawa continue to raise the bar for plastic aircraft models. In particular, Tamiya has recently released a 1/32-scale Spitfire Mk IX with a remarkable level of
detail and engineering innovation. Many commentators claim that this is the best plastic model aircraft ever released. We can be sure that future releases will incorporate many of the innovations found in this new Spitfire.
The aftermarket industry moves ahead in leaps and bounds too. While companies such as Eduard and Aires enter a new phase of almost mass-production with ambitious release schedules and remarkable quality, the cottage industry is also thriving at the other end of the scale. The best of both of these categories share a high level of detail and minimum preparation for parts that will greatly enhance or convert your plastic aircraft models.
This new Masterclass title will examine all these categories of kits and accessories, and provide
step-by-step illustrated examples for getting the most out of your plastic.
We will look at state-of-the-art plastic kits from Japan built straight from the box; and we will take a walk down memory lane to update a venerable Monogram kit using some old-fashioned modelling techniques.
We will build a limited-run Czech Spitfire Mk Vc, and also use resin parts to convert Tamiya’s Spitfire to the same variant. What is the easiest approach? We’ll discuss that in Chapters 2 and 3.
These projects are supplemented with reference photos of the real thing too, so you can see how your model should look upon completion. In total, we present ten start-to-finish projects to demonstrate both basic and advanced modelling techniques.
Brett Green
B UILDINGASTATE - OF - THE - ART INJECTION
- MOULDEDKITSTRAIGHT
FROMTHEBOX
There has been no shortage of 1/48-scale Zero kits in recent history. Hasegawa released their 1/48-scale A6M family during the 1990s. These were accurate and well-detailed kits, eventually covering virtually all variants from the A6M2 to the A6M8.
Prior to Hasegawa, we have seen 1/48-scale Zero kits from Lindberg, Monogram and Arii/Otaki. Tamiya also released an A6M5c Zero back in the early 1980s. This featured a combination of raised and recessed panel lines and a nicely detailed cockpit. Tamiya’s older Zero remains a respectable kit today, and is still widely available. It was therefore quite a surprise in 2008 to hear that Tamiya was planning a brand new A6M5/5a Zero in 1/48 scale.
To be perfectly honest, I have not always been terribly inspired by Japanese subjects. However, as soon as I opened the box of Tamiya’s new Zero, I knew that I was looking at something special.
TAMIYA’ S 1/48SCALE A6M5/5A Z EROINTHEBOX
Tamiya’s new 1/48-scale A6M5/5a Zero comprises 115 parts in grey plastic; eight parts in clear; four standing pilot figures made up of 21 additional
grey plastic parts; polythene caps; a self-adhesive canopy masking sheet and decals for three marking options.
Moulding quality is perfect. Surface detail is mainly by way of very finely recessed panel lines, with some subtly raised fabric strips on control surfaces. Selected rows of subtle rivets are present along some of the panel lines.
The detail is extraordinary. The wheel wells are authentically deep and busy. The engine is made up of only six parts, but this engineering simplicity does not compromise detail. Cooling fin detail is crisp, and a separate row of pushrods makes painting a breeze.
The cockpit is the best I have seen in a 1/48-scale plastic kit. The seat is realistically thin and lightening holes are all present and correct. Sidewall detail is deep and accurate, with the various quadrants and boxes added from separate parts.
Tamiya’s new 1/48-scale A6M5/5a Zero is a beautifully detailed kit and a pleasure to build.
The floor features a separate clear viewing window. The instrument panel is a minor masterpiece, mounted on the front of the ammunition bins and with the gun breeches included. The panel features decal instruments, which look fantastic if carefully aligned.
Options include the choice of open or closed cowl flaps, open or closed landing flaps and two styles of drop tank. A number of detail differences between the A6M5 and the A6M5a are also accurately portrayed.
Polythene caps are used to secure the propeller assembly and the drop tank.
The clear parts are thin and completely free of distortion. The canopy is supplied in three parts, and the centre sliding section will fit well in either the closed or open positions. Other clear parts include wing tip navigation lights and the nicely detailed reflector gunsight.
Markings are supplied for three aircraft – two A6M5s and a single A6M5a. All aircraft are finished in IJN Green and IJN Grey. The decals are in register and opaque.
In addition to the aircraft markings, the decal sheet includes printed harness straps for the pilot’s seat.
Two decal sheets are included.
The first contains Hinomaru flags (the national flag of Japan) and individual aircraft markings, while the second includes mostly stencil markings.
In addition to the aeroplane and a seated pilot figure, Tamiya supplies four standing Japanese pilot figures, each sporting different flight gear. Two of the pilots are wearing Samurai swords. The figures are very well detailed.
A self-adhesive canopy-masking sheet rounds out the package. This is manufactured from material similar to the current Eduard masks and Tamiya masking tape.
The outlines of the canopy frames are marked on the sheet but they are not die cut. You will have to carefully cut the frames out of the sheet with the aid of a sharp hobby knife and a ruler.
A6M Z ERO
FIGHTER ‘D ETAIL U P ’ PARTSSET
Tamiya has also released separately a small multimedia upgrade for their new 1/48-scale Zero. This comprises a photo-etched fret with harness straps, undercarriage indicators and wheel chocks, three turned-metal parts (20mm cannon barrels and pitot tube) and a coil of copper wire representing rope for the chocks.
The Tamiya Zero can certainly be completed with decal harness straps and the plastic cannon barrels and pitot tube, but this Detail Up set adds an appropriate touch of class to an already superlative model.
Literally all of the cockpit, engine and wheel well parts were fully painted and weathered while still on the sprues. This makes handling easier during painting, and minimizes the risk of losing small parts.
Most of the detail parts may be painted before they are removed from the sprues. This is thanks to the thoughtful placement of sprue attachment points on the edges or rear of parts.
C ONSTRUCTION
I was not planning to build this kit straight away, but when I lifted the lid I was inexorably drawn into action. ‘Well,’ I thought, ‘maybe I will just paint some of the parts on the sprue.’ Famous last words –there is no way I could stop once I had started.
Tamiya’s helpful planning means that virtually all of the interior components – cockpit, engine and wheel wells – can be entirely painted before a single part is cut from the sprues. This is thanks to the sensible location of sprue connectors on the sides and rear of most parts. Pre-painting the interior components in this way will eliminate the risk of losing parts, and make it much easier to handle the parts during painting.
I followed Tamiya’s suggestion and used their new IJN Cockpit Green, colour number XF-71, as the basecoat for the cockpit parts and
the fuselage sidewalls. I also adopted the formula for the Aotake (green bamboo) wheel wells provided in the kit instructions – three parts Tamiya X-13 Metallic Blue and one part X-25 Clear Green. I was a little doubtful about the combination of the clear and metallic acrylic paints, but the colour covered well and looked great on the plastic. The engine cylinders were sprayed using Alclad II Aluminium, and the crankcase was painted grey. With this quilt of different colours on the sprues, the next step was to apply an oil wash. A thin wash of lamp black and raw umber oil paints was mixed and applied selectively along the edges of structural detail on the interior sidewalls, cockpit parts, engine components and wheel wells. The sprues were then set aside to dry overnight. The following day the oil wash had settled into the various crevices and natural shadow areas,
emphasizing depth and leaving the general impression of grime.
Now the detail parts were picked out with a fine brush and acrylic paints. The kit instrument panel is a solid plastic part with raised bezels and flat dials. Instrument detail is supplied on the decal sheet. I dipped the painted and weathered instrument panel in Future floor polish in preparation for the decal dials. After a few hours, the main instrument cluster decal was applied in one piece to the panel. At first, the decal seemed stiff and unyielding, but a brushed coat of Solvaset decal setting solution quickly helped the previously recalcitrant markings conform to the raised detail. This process was repeated for the two smaller instrument clusters at the top of the panel and on the side console. When the decals had set, I sprayed the instrument panel
this treatment.
The engine is made up of only six parts, but detail is not compromised.
Tamiya’s ‘Detail Up’ multimedia set was used to enhance the basic kit. The stainless-steel photo-etched set was annealed over a candle for a few seconds to soften the metal. Note the telltale discolouring of the metal after
with Polly Scale Flat Clear, and then applied a drop of Future floor polish to the lens of each instrument. I was generally very happy with the effect, but I did not line up the decals perfectly with all the dials. Next time, I will punch the instruments from the decal sheet and apply each one individually.
Before assembling the painted cockpit parts, I added the photoetched harness from Tamiya’s Detail Up set. These parts appear
Tamiya’s A6M5 cockpit is magnificently detailed. The only extra parts are the photo-etched harness straps from the Detail Up set. I did manage to lose one of the lap harness straps. This was replaced with a strip of lead foil.
to be made of thin stainless steel. I was concerned that this material might not be sufficiently flexible for the harness straps to be bent into natural draping poses, so I annealed the metal before removing the belts from the fret.
This is a fast and easy process. I simply held the small photo-etched fret over a household candle for a few seconds, and then dipped it in cool water. You can tell when the metal has been annealed, as
the shiny metal discolours to shades of orange, brown and blue. The treated fret was prepared for painting with a coat of clear Tamiya Metal Primer straight from the spray can. The belts were then painted in Gunze Tan acrylic before being cut from the fret.
Once annealed, the harness straps were easy to handle, holding their shapes when bent into place.
Inevitably, I dropped one of the lap belts on the floor while folding
Instruments are from the kit decal sheet, applied to the painted instrument panel and finished with a drop of Future floor polish on the lens of each dial. Sidewall detail is equally good. Once again, all the detail seen here is straight from the box.
It is essential to follow the sequence of assembly for the nose. Part C7 is a brace for the upper nose decking. This image shows the correct positioning for this part.
Once the bracing has been installed, the cockpit tub and instrument panel sub-assembly may be inserted through the bottom of the fuselage. I secured the cockpit with Tamiya liquid cement brushed around the edges of the rear bulkhead.
A number of alternate panels are supplied for the different versions of the Zero. These require inserts in the wings and fuselage. The fit of all these inserts is excellent, but all traces of sprue connectors must be eliminated from the edges of the parts prior to assembly.
The deep wheel wells are positively located with the assistance of two large pins. The mount for the drop tank polythene cap may be seen in the photo too.
There is some minor flex at the wing root. Two clamps were used to ensure perfect alignment between the wing and the root at the fuselage while the glue set.
The forward fuselage is made up of three separate panels. Take your time to ensure that the parts are properly aligned.
The upper deck is installed first. Note that this part must sit behind and below the raised tab at the front of the fuselage. If this part is accurately positioned, the side panels will fit perfectly.
There were no steps and only a few tiny gaps on the completed airframe. A smear of Tamiya Surfacer was applied to the rear wing root and the bottom stabilizer joins. The excess was wiped off with a fingertip while the liquid was still wet.
A smudge of Tamiya Surfacer was also applied to the wing roots.
it, and could not find the small brown painted belt on the dark brown carpet under my desk. I therefore cut a replacement from lead foil and installed that instead.
The painted cockpit components were now cut from the sprue and assembled. All the parts fitted precisely. The instrument panel is part of a subassembly that slides on to the front of the cockpit floor. The fit is so solid that glue is probably not strictly necessary. The fit of the sidewall components is equally good.
The appearance of the finished cockpit is even more impressive than the engineering of the parts. In my opinion, it even pips Tamiya’s 1/48-scale P-47 cockpits – the previous holder of this honour.
The fuselage halves can be joined before installing the cockpit tub. A brace is inserted between the nose halves – part C7. This adds rigidity to the nose, and acts as the mounting position for the upper nose deck, part C3. It is important to get the positioning of this upper deck correct or the side panels will not fit properly. Part C3 must be pushed down onto the brace, part C7. This will result in the front of the deck sitting below the raised tab at the front of the fuselage. Check the photos to see how these parts should look when assembled.
A number of alternate panels are supplied for the upper and lower wings. These inserts fit
perfectly providing the waste material from the sprue connectors is completely removed from the edges of the panels.
The balance of construction was completely trouble free and almost embarrassingly fast, although a little fiddling was required to properly locate the intake assembly underneath the engine cowling.
When fitting the wings to the fuselage, I noticed a bit of flex at the wing root that might have resulted in a step between the parts. I clamped the wings while the glue set, resulting in perfect alignment between the wing and fuselage at the wing root.
Very little filler was required –just a smear of Mr. Surfacer on the starboard wing root, underneath the horizontal stabilizers and where the trailing edge of the wing meets the bottom of the fuselage. This is one of the best-fitting kits that I have ever built.
PAINTINGAND MARKINGS
There is not a lot of variety in the camouflage options for an operational A6M5 Zero – pretty much any colour you want as long as it is IJN Dark Green and IJN Light Grey. Weathering would therefore be important to add some interest to the standard scheme.
I wanted to portray an aircraft that had seen heavy use in the punishing Pacific theatre, but I did not want to ‘chip’ the paintwork excessively.
I started with the base colours. Tamiya offers IJN Light Grey and Dark Green in its spray can range. I like the toughness of these spray paints, but they can result in an orange peel texture when applied straight from the can. To avoid this problem, these lacquer paints were
Tamiya’s IJN Light Grey and IJN Dark Green were decanted from the spray cans into glass jars.
The spray lacquer paints worked beautifully in my Aztek A470 airbrush, avoiding the possible orange peel effect sometimes encountered when applied straight from the spray can. Here, the light grey lower surfaces have been masked in preparation for painting the green upper surfaces.
The base colour was mottled with two paler shades of green to deliver an irregular effect. The result looks extreme in this photo, but later coats of gloss, flat and weathering will tone the contrast down considerably.
The entire nose may be assembled and painted separate to the airframe. Here, the cowl and propeller assembly have already been sprayed with two glossy coats of Future floor polish in preparation for decals.
Tamiya’s self-adhesive canopy masks were carefully cut out and applied to the kit’s clear parts.
The insides of the clear parts were masked with Post-it notes, trimmed to size and stuck to the handle of a paintbrush using Blu-Tack for easier handling during painting.
The model has now been sprayed with two glossy coats of Future floor polish. Tamiya’s kit decals performed very well under an application of Solvaset. Note that the mottled appearance has all but disappeared.
The yellow ID stripes on the wing leading edges are supplied on Tamiya’s decal sheet. They are perfectly opaque, fit well and look great. The top of my port side decal was a bit wonky, so I decided to correct it.
A self-adhesive Post-it note was used as a straight edges mask. Dark green was sprayed along this straight edge to correct the upper line of the ID stripe.
The green upper surface camouflage should wrap around the wing leading edges. Post-it notes were also used for this masking task. A short length of tape was used to mask the edge.
The result was a nice sharp demarcation between the top and bottom camouflage colours in line with the yellow ID stripes. I hand-painted the curved area of the camouflage wrap-around on the lower wing tips.
The main airframe received two thin coats of Polly Scale Flat acrylic before further weathering.
A 50:50 mix of Tamiya acrylic IJN Green and Japanese Interior Green, heavily thinned with alcohol, was sprayed liberally on the wing roots and control surfaces, and in random patches elsewhere. I did not want to simply shade the insides of panels.
The addition of selected panel line highlighting with semi-gloss black paint, and subtle chipping with a silver pencil, lends more depth to the effect. The main subassemblies have been weathered and prepared for final construction.
More weathering was applied to the bottom wings before completion.
Tamiya’s Detail Up set includes beautiful metal 20mm cannon, with fared barrels and hollow muzzles. These are a lovely finishing touch to this already excellent model.
The undercarriage legs and gear doors align perfectly. The drop tank is securely held in place with a single polythene cap. The tank may be removed if desired (for refuelling perhaps). Tamiya has perfectly captured the lines of Mitsubishi’s most famous progeny.
The random fading effect, plus pale and dark vertical streaking, has also been applied to the fuselage sides.
The engine cowling has been finished with a coat of Model Master Acryl Semi-Gloss. The different sheen compared to the wings and fuselage adds extra interest to the subject.
decanted from their spray cans into glass jars.
The lower surface was sprayed IJN Light Grey. Demarcation lines were masked off and the upper fuselage and tops of the wings and tail planes were painted IJN Dark Green.
The large expanse of IJN Dark Green was broken up with a random mottle of two progressively paler shades. This looked a bit overdone, but experience has shown that gloss and flat coats will considerably subdue the effect later.
Sure enough, when I sprayed the model with Future floor polish as a gloss coat in preparation for decals, the mottling virtually disappeared. The engine cowling and propeller assembly were painted separately.
Although Tamiya’s decals looked a bit thick on their backing sheet, I decided to give them a go. I was particularly interested to see how the yellow leading edge ID stripes
would look when set. As it turns out, the decals performed very well over the glossy Future coat. Solvaset decal setting solution was brushed over them, eliminating any remaining visible decal film and settling the markings into panel lines and around structural features.
The ID stripes looked as if they had been painted on, and with far less time and trouble. However, one of the stripes was not completely straight (my fault), so I set about correcting this obvious problem.
A self-adhesive Post-it note was used as a low-tack straight edge. IJN Dark Green was sprayed in several very thin coats along the edge of the straight paper mask, avoiding a build up of paint along the demarcation line. Voila! Problem solved.
Post-it notes were also used to paint the Dark Green camouflage that wraps around the leading edges of the wings and tail planes.
After the model had been sprayed with two thin coats of Polly Scale Flat, some of the mottling resurfaced, but the overall effect was still very bland.
I mixed a paler version of the upper camouflage colour using equal parts of IJN Dark Green and IJN Cockpit Green, thinned heavily with isopropylene alcohol. My original intention was to just to fade the heavy traffic areas on the wing roots. However, when I had painted these patches with the paler shade of green, I was so happy with the effect that I decided to extend it to random areas on the wings and fuselage. I was careful not to simply shade the insides of panels, as I wanted to avoid a geometric chequerboard. My ‘random’ application was therefore carefully executed using a combination of spots, shapes and mottles, sometimes inside panels and sometimes crossing structural features. Fabric control surfaces received a solid application of the pale green shade. The pale mix was also used to create a series of thin vertical stripes on the rear fuselage.
A thin, dark mix of Tamiya Flat Black and Red Brown was now prepared and loaded into the
The focus of the fading effect was the wing roots, where the traffic of pilot and crew would have had the greatest impact. A silver pencil has also been used to represent bare metal in the most heavily worn areas.
The option of dropped flaps breaks up the shape and colour of the finished model.
Tamiya’s 1/48-scale Mitsubishi A6M5/5a kit is an instant classic.
airbrush. This was used to highlight major structural features such as panel lines on the forward fuselage that would be subject to exhaust fumes and general grime, control surface hinge lines and various spots and streaks on the upper and lower surfaces. Camouflage demarcation lines were softened with this mix too, as was the border between the camouflage colours and the yellow ID stripes on the wings and propeller blades.
Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black acrylic paint was thinned with water and applied to control surfaces and major panel lines. A silver artist’s pencil was used to add very selective chipping to the wing root and fuselage sides. Weathering was also applied to the undercarriage parts and drop tank.
I wanted to emphasize the different gloss levels between the main airframe and the engine cowling. The cowling was sprayed
with Model Master Acryl SemiGloss for a smooth, satin finish. A few ‘chips’ were also added to the engine coal using Testors’ Metalizer Aluminium applied with the tip of a toothpick. Final assembly was a breeze. The propeller assembly and drop tanks simply pressed into place thanks to the very efficient polythene caps. The canopy, dropped flaps and undercarriage were similarly precise. I used water-based Gator Glue to attach the canopy parts.
The metal cannon barrels from Tamiya’s Detail Up set were glued in place. No painting or preparation was required, and they (along with the pitot tube) looked fantastic. Installing the tiny aileron balance horns was left until last, but I still managed to drop one and lose it. This was replaced with the tip of a toothpick glued to two pieces of fine wire.
The antenna wire was cut from smoke-coloured invisible mending thread and secured with two spots of superglue.
C ONCLUSION
Although Hasegawa’s A6M family is accurate and quite well detailed, Tamiya’s new kit easily snatches the crown as best 1/48-scale Zero.
Tamiya’s A6M5/5a is beautifully detailed, with perhaps the best 1/48-scale cockpit straight from the box seen to date. Options are very useful, and the model is a pleasure to build thanks to the thoughtful planning of Tamiya’s designers.
Even if you are not a big fan of Japanese aircraft, you would be doing yourself a favour by sampling the sheer excellence of Tamiya’s new 1/48-scale Mitsubishi A6M5/5a Zero. I do hope that Tamiya will be working through the whole Zero family.
B UILDINGANEWGENERATION LIMITED - RUNKIT
The Temora Aviation Museum has not one, but two late-Merlin Spitfires. These are the only two Spitfires in flying condition in Australia.
M ERLIN S PITFIRES
CLOSEUP
The Museum’s Mk VIII was the last Spitfire taken on charge by the Royal Australian Air Force. It was manufactured in England during 1944, and shipped to Australia where it was delivered to the RAAF in April
1945. Its RAAF serial number was A58-758. The aircraft was immediately placed in storage and never saw active service.
Post-war, this Spitfire was employed by Sydney Technical College as an instructional airframe. Mr Sid Marshall purchased the aircraft in 1982 and
stored it in components Mr Colin Pay of Scone then acquired and restored the Spitfire. After four decades of storage and disassembly,
The Spitfire Mk VIII was a later development, but shared many of the characteristics of the Spitfire Mk IXc. This beautifully restored example is displayed at the Temora Aviation Museum.
Temora’s Spitfire Mk VIII cockpit is mostly original. The configuration is almost identical to that of a Spitfire Mk IXc. Here we can see the instrument panel, slightly overshadowed by a large cover over the modern avionics mounted on the instrument coaming.
The starboard cockpit sidewall is quite bare, as it was on the wartime aircraft.
Black leather cushions are fitted to the Spitfire’s composite seat. We can see the characteristic brown colour of the composite material. Some modern avionics are also visible behind the seat on the starboard sidewall.
The well of the Spitfire’s floorless cockpit is a jumble of wires, actuators and structural details. The large quadrant and trim wheels may be seen on the port sidewall here too.
Note the slight bulge at the rear of the tail wheel doors to accommodate the tail wheel when retracted. This retractable tail wheel was not fitted to the Spitfire Mk IX.
All Spitfire Mk VIIIs were configured with the universal ‘c’ wing. Most, if not all, Mk VIII Spitfires featured the narrow inboard bulge for the 20mm cannon, plus two .303in. machine guns outboard on each wing.
In contrast to the Mk VIII, this Mk XVI is fitted with tubular exhaust stubs.
Main wheels are the later style with four lightening holes.
Temora is also home to a Spitfire Mk XVIe.
Radiator face detail.
This Mk XVIe is fitted with the late-style double-kinked elevators.
A side view of the Rolls-Royce Merlin 70 engine in Temora’s Spitfire Mk VIII. Note the bare copper coolant pipes. The curved oil tank under the engine and the long supercharger intake are obvious from this angle.
this marvellous aircraft took to the skies again in 1985. It has been part of the Temora Aviation Museum’s collection since 2002, and regularly takes parts in flying displays.
The aircraft is painted in the Ocean Grey and Dark Green camouflage worn by RAAF Spitfires in the South-west Pacific. These markings represent the personal aircraft of Wing Commander R. H. (Bobby) Gibbes AM WG CMR DSO DFC.
The Spitfire Mk XVI was manufactured at Castle Bromwich in late 1944, and undertook its first mission with 453 Sqn RAAF on 24 March 1945 wearing the codes FU-P.
After being written off by the Royal Air Force in 1951, this aircraft started a film career, first as a prop in MGM’s 1955 adaptation of the Douglas Bader story, Reach for the Sky, and again 12 years later as a non-flying extra in The Battle of Britain.
The small bare metal reservoir behind the propeller is the glycol tank. Ethylene glycol was used as the coolant in the Spitfire. Note the circular black filler cap near the top of the tank. Tamiya missed this feature. Also missing from the Tamiya kit is the filler neck for the oil tank. This may be seen in the photo a little more than halfway back on the oil tank, curving upwards.
Sir Tim Wallis purchased the partially restored airframe in 1987, completing the project and shipping the Spitfire to New Zealand as the centrepiece of the Alpine Fighter Collection. Temora Aviation Museum acquired the aircraft in April 2006. It is currently finished in the colours and markings of its first sorties over the skies of northern Europe with 453 Sqn RAAF.
The top of the Rolls-Royce Merlin 70.
S PECIAL
H OBBY /C LASSIC A IRFRAMES
S PITFIRE M K V C
The Spitfire Mk Vc was the first of this famous breed to use the so-called ‘universal’ ‘c’ wing. The ‘c’ wing could be fitted with up to four 20mm cannon or eight machine guns, but the most typical fit was two 20mm cannon and four .303in. machine guns.
Both Classic Airframes and Special Hobby released this 1/48-scale Spitfire Mk Vc with minor variations in 2008. In 2009, Eduard also released their own boxing of the same plastic sprues with their own colour photo-etched parts.
The ‘c’ wing armament was also used on the Spitfire Mk VIII, IX, XVI and 18.
Although the Spitfire Vc was built in significant numbers, we had not seen this variant produced as a 1/48-scale injection-moulded kit until 2008.
Both Classic Airframes and Special Hobby released Spitfire Mk Vc kits in late 2008. The mouldings are identical except
for propeller assemblies and different marking options.
In 2009, Eduard from the Czech Republic threw their hat into the ring too, releasing the same plastic sprues supplemented with their own colour photo-etched parts plus a lovely set of resin, hollowed-out flared exhaust stacks. For this project I used the Classic Airframes boxing.
Limited-run kit parts are usually not labelled on the sprues, and generally require more time and effort to clean up the plastic. I find it helpful to remove and prepare all the parts before commencing construction. Here, the parts have been stored in resealable bags prior to assembly.
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7. Or, do you fancy a soldier has nothing to do with judgment? Will you say then (as poor Captain Uratz did, when he was ask’d a few minutes before his death, if he had made his peace with God) “I hope God will deal with me like a gentleman?” But God said unto him, “Thou fool! I will deal with thee, as with all mankind. There is no respect of persons with me. I reward every man according to his works.” Thou also shalt receive of the righteous judge, according to the things which thou hast done in the body. Death levels all; it mingles in one dust the gentleman, soldier, clown and beggar; it makes all these distinctions void. When life ends so do they. Holy or unholy is the one question then. Lo! the books are opened, that all the dead may be judged according to the things that are written therein! O may thy name be found written in the book of life!
8. For, have soldiers nothing to do with hell? Why then is it so often in thy mouth? Dost thou think God does not hear the prayer? And how often hast thou prayed him, To damn thy soul? Is his ear waxed heavy that it cannot hear? I fear thou wilt find it otherwise. Was not he a soldier too, (and a terrible one) to whom God said of old, “Hell from beneath is moved for thee, to meet thee at thy coming?” And what marvel? For sin is the high road to hell. And have soldiers nothing to do with sin? Alas! How many of you wallow therein, yea and glory in your shame? How do you labour to work out your own damnation! O poor work, for poor wages! The wages of sin is death; the wages of cursing, of swearing, of taking the name of God in vain, of sabbath-breaking, drunkenness, revenge, of fornication, adultery, and all uncleanness. Now, art thou clear of these? Does not thy own heart smite thee? Art thou not condemned already? What voice is that which sounds in thine ears? Is it not the voice of God? Shall I not visit for these things, saith the Lord? Shall not my soul be avenged on such a sinner as this? It is a fearful thing to fall into the hands of the living God! Be very sure that thou art stronger than he, before thou fliest in his face! Do not defy God, unless thou canst overcome him. But canst thou indeed? O no. Do not try. Do not dare him to do his worst. Why should he destroy both thy body and soul in hell? Why shouldst thou be punished with everlasting destruction, from the presence of the Lord and from the glory of his power?
*9. But if there were no other hell, thou hast hell enough within thee. An awakened conscience is hell. Pride, envy, wrath, hatred, malice, revenge; what are these but hell upon earth? And how often art thou tormented in these flames? Flames of lust, envy, or proud wrath? Are not these to thy soul, when blown up to the height, as it were a lake of fire, burning with brimstone? Flee away before the great gulph is fixt: escape, escape for thy life! If thou hast not strength, cry to God, and thou shalt receive power from on high: and he whose name is rightly called Jesus, shall save thee from thy sins.
10. And why should he not? Has a soldier nothing to do with heaven? God forbid that you should think so! Heaven was designed for you also. God so loved your soul, that he gave his only begotten Son, that you, believing in him, might not perish, but have everlasting life. Receive then the kingdom, prepared for you from the foundation of the world! This, this is the time to make it sure; this short, uncertain day of life. Have you then an hour to spare? No; not a moment. Arise, and call upon thy God. Call upon the Lamb who taketh away the sins of the world, to take away thy sins. Surely he hath borne thy griefs, and carried thy sorrows! He was wounded for thy transgressions, and bruised for thy iniquities. He hath paid the ransom for thysoul. Believe in him, and thou shalt be saved. Art thou a sinner? He came, not to call the righteous, but sinners to repentance. Art thou a lost, undone sinner? He came to seek and to save that which was lost. May he that gave himself for thee, give thee ears to hear, and a heart to understand his love! So shalt thou also say, “The life I now live, I live by faith in the Son of God.” So shall the love of God be shed abroad in thy heart, and thou shalt rejoice with joy unspeakable. Thou shalt have the mind that was in Christ, and shalt so walk as he also walked; till having fought the good fight, and finished thy course, thou receive the crown that fadeth not away!
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