LA CHAINE In Canada
Volume 17 – Issue 1 April/May 2018
Join Us in Edmonton!
Bailliage du Canada - Chapitre du Canada 2018 (October 18 - 20, 2018) Most definitely a city on the rise.
Photos courtesy of Edmonton Tourism.
dmonton is a vibrant urban centre in the heart of the wilderness, the largest northernmost metropolis. Authentic, rugged and original, Alberta’s capital city has come a long way since the Hudson’s Bay Company first established a fur trading fort in 1795 on the banks of the North Saskatchewan River. Edmonton became a town with 700 residents in 1892, a city with 8350 residents in 1904, and the capital of the new province of Alberta in 1906.
Dining It’s no secret that Edmonton is home to the goldmedal Culinary Olympic Team Canada.
Situated in the heart of Alberta’s beautiful parkland, Greater Edmonton straddles the stunning North Saskatchewan River valley—lush green under a big, blue Alberta sky—whose waters originate in the Columbia Icefields in Banff National Park and empty in Hudson’s Bay. The region offers the largest urban parkway system in North America and is only three and one-half hours away from Jasper National Park—the jewel of Canada’s Rocky Mountain parks. Enjoy warm fall days that seem to go on forever. Although the most northerly of Canada’s major cities, Edmonton basks in seventeen hours of daylight at summer solstice.
Mirroring the region’s ethnic and cultural diversity, Edmonton offers a truly cosmopolitan smorgasbord of restaurants and cuisine. From traditional Canadian fare to Ukrainian and Russian delicacies, French, Greek and Italian dishes or the full spectrum of Asian epicurean delights, you’ll find it here. And, don’t forget Alberta’s worldwide reputation for succulent beef! Try regional cuisine from local chefs and restaurants—from bison, farm-raised elk and wild boar to fresh picked root vegetables and summer berries. (Continued on Page 4)
Bailliage du Canada —Chapître du Canada 2018 National Meeting (Edmonton, October 18 – 20, 2018)
Bailliage du Canada — Chapître du Canada 2018 Réunion du Conseil National (Edmonton du 18 au 20 octobre 2018)
Note from Bailli Délégué — David Tétrault
Un mot du Bailli Délégué — David Tétrault
Your Host Hotel — The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald
Votre hôte Hôtel — The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald
Professional Spotlight – Mridul Bhatt
Vedette professionnelle – Mridul Bhatt
Report on The International Young Chefs Competition 2018
Concours Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs International 2018
Canadian Restaurateur Profiles
Profils des Restaurateurs canadiens
IN THE NEWS
People and Places— Canadian National Executive in Nanaimo
Les Gens et les Lieux — Canadian National Executive in Nanaimo
La Chaîne — Coast-to-Coast
La Chaîne — d'un Océan à l'autre
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Note from the Bailli Délégué
David R. Tétrault Bailli Délégué du Canada Membre des Conseil d’Administration et Magistral Président du Comité des Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs Dear Canadian Member of la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, I would like to thank all of you who participated in International Chaine Day, and especially those who participated by posting their dinner or event on our social media. It was an amazing success this year, and we look forward to an even bigger celebration next year. Special thanks to Montreal Bailli Regional Jean-Louis Souman; Jean-Claude Phisel, Bailli Provincial Honoraire; Mr. Michel Busch, Bailli Honoraire; and Ginette Normandeau Phisel, Vice-Argentier for organizing an outstanding Diner Amical event with more than 40 members of the Montreal Bailliage attending, in conjunction with our semi-annual National Board Meeting held in that beautiful and historic city. We are all members of the oldest, largest and finest food and wine society in the world. At our mid-year National Board meeting we discussed our strategic plan. In the coming days, the Board, Provincial Baillis and Regional Baillis will be participating in an organized process to provide insights into next steps for la Chaine Canada, including developing a strong “value proposition” that we can all use to attract new members. As part of this great organization, we owe it to our like-minded friends and acquaintances to introduce them to everything la Chaine has to offer. If every member brought just one friend to one dinner a year, the overall impact on our total membership would be incredible. Even just making them aware of our new website http://canada.chainedesrotisseurs.com and telling them about the videos and the events and competitions around the world they can view there will make a huge difference. The Board and Provincial Baillis have also been working hard to establish new Bailliages in other parts of Canada. Together we can all grow our Canadian Bailliage. Our Grand Chapître returns to Edmonton this year. The members of the Conseil National hope you will be able to attend --- as always, we have some extraordinary dine-arounds and tours for members and guests. The complete programme will be released in the next few weeks. Finally, I am pleased to announce that Canada has been chosen to host the 2019 Jeune Chefs Rotisseurs Competition in Calgary in September 2019. Plans are underway to make this a major International event! Watch for details in the near future. I thank you for your support, and on behalf of the Conseil National, look forward to seeing many of you in Edmonton at our Grand Chapitre du Canada. Of course, I welcome your comments. Please write me at your convenience to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Incredible natural beauty.
Culture Old Strathcona shopping district.
Shopping The city’s commercial streets were once the heart of old communities that formed the city. These streets still offer unique shopping experiences, with a variety of specialty stores, arts and crafts, and ethnic shops. Edmonton has been undergoing tremendous changes the past couple years. The new Rogers Place downtown (home of the NHL’s Edmonton Oilers) has sparked a growth in new restaurants and shops in the so-called Ice District and a new vibrancy in the city. Named one of the ten best shopping districts in Canada, bustling 82 Avenue in Old Strathcona boasts 300 businesses, 90 percent of them family owned. Amid many historic buildings, the fare ranges from international to locally produced, with emphatic nods to arts and crafts, unique fashions and accessories, antiques, home accessories, books, health and wellness, and many unusual gifts and collectables. It’s not all happening in the downtown core. South of the Old Strathcona District, an upscale, bright and modern building called Ritchie Market has created a new and vibrant area with a real cross-section of the city containing both artists and professionals. Or try Chinatown and the Avenue of Nations for a smorgasbord of ethnic shops reflecting the cultures of China, Japan, Italy, Latin America, Poland, Ukraine and Vietnam. And don’t miss High Street/124 Street (Edward’s Street). This quaint area sports more than 125 shops, including unique antique and specialty boutiques, sporting goods, home décor, books and designer furniture. And, don’t miss the many art galleries..
On a more intellectual note, the Art Gallery has been wowing critics since its opening in the winter of 2010. The old Royal Alberta Museum is being moved to spacious new quarters new Rogers Place, which should do even more to spark new life in downtown.
The Muttart Conservatory, Edmonton's premier horticultural attraction, features more than 700 species of plants in 3 climate-regulated biomes arid, temperate and tropical - and a feature biome, located within a set of striking glass pyramids rising from the river valley! As an accredited museum, the Muttart Conservatory preserves and grows one of Canada’s largest botanical collections.
Your Host Hotel The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald Completely restored between 1986 and 1991, the “Chateau on the River” exudes charm and classic Victorian elegance as befitting Edmonton's only Four Diamond-rated luxury hotel. During the restoration, several specialty suites were constructed in what had once been the attic of the hotel. These suites feature turret spaces and breathtaking views of the city and the river valley. The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald's grandest suite, the Royal Suite, is built on two levels and includes a large foyer, dining room, service pantry, two bedrooms, two and onehalf bathrooms, and spacious living room. Guests staying in this grand suite have space to entertain up to fifty people.
The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald has long been known as Edmonton's most elegant hotel and is lovingly referred to as “The Mac.” After four years of construction, the hotel, named after Canada's first prime minister, Sir John A. Macdonald opened its doors in 1915. Situated high on the bank overlooking the North Saskatchewan River valley, the sevenstorey hotel (faced with Indiana limestone and roofed with copper) was built and furnished at a cost of about $2,250,000 (over $35 million today). The characteristic Chateau style, an adaptation of French sixteenth-century castles, was first brought to Canada in 1892.
Chateau on the river.
The Lobby at The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald
The guest rooms throughout the hotel were also completely reconstructed during the restoration. With only 198 rooms in total, this “new” hotel became Fairmont Hotels & Resorts’ boutique chateau-style hotel. And, it has a location every bit as spectacular as its interior. No matter what the season, guests can enjoy the dramatic natural panorama in a dynamic urban setting.
The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald has a reputation for excellent cuisine and warm hospitality. The beautifully appointed restaurant The Harvest Room beckons with a warm and vibrant atmosphere, enhanced by a magnificent view of the North Saskatchewan River valley. Diners enjoy awardwinning cuisine featuring regional specialties such as Alberta beef, game, freshwater fish and local produce. With a wide range of specialties, our distinguished chef always prepares outstanding dining experiences. After a magnificent dinner, treat yourself in the library-style Confederation Lounge. Patio overlooking the river.
The Garden area.
The Empire Ballroom Foyer.
The Empire Ballroom
The Confederation Lounge.
Mridul Bhatt, Executive Chef, Maître Rôtisseur The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald India to work as part of the Pre-Opening team with the first Marriott Hotel in India in 2005. While with Marriott, Mridul took on the Restaurant named “Rhapsody”, which focused on contemporary tapas from all around the world, garnering him many accolades. In 2008, Mridul took on a new challenge by joining the Four Seasons team to open their first hotel in India at Mumbai. Mridul focused on fulfilling his culinary passion by learning new cuisines and developing his palate - focusing on Italian, Asian and Progressive Indian, working at both the prestigious Italian restaurant Prato and later moving to San-QI Restaurant as Head Chef. Another exciting opportunity presented itself in the same year when Mridul was chosen to contribute his skills and expertise to the award winning AAA five Diamond Four Seasons Hotel in California where he demonstrated his craftsmanship on Southern Californian and Mexican cuisine. In California, Mridul worked closely with the local farms and wineries within the Napa Valley, which inspired him to bring local and fresh ingredients to his guests.
Mridul Bhatt, Executive Chef, Maître Rôtisseur. [Photo courtesy of Fairmont Hotels & Resorts]
Born and raised in New Delhi, India, Chef Mridul Bhatt reflected his culinary inclination at a young age. After graduating in Hotel Management, Mridul sharpened his skills by completing his apprenticeship at the Prestigious Taj Hotel, New Delhi. Adding momentum to building his culinary experience, he spent more than a decade of his career working in and opening luxury hotels across diverse India. He started at the Radisson Hotel, Delhi as a Management Trainee before heading to Southern 8
Chef Bhatt collects honey from the beehives at The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald.
Mridul returned to India in 2009 and assumed the role of Banquet Chef with the Four Seasons Hotel, Mumbai and later Joining J W Marriott, Pune as a Banquet Chef. Upon taking this responsibility, he promptly redefined the hotel's dining focus, paying close attention to guest predilections while emphasizing simplicity and creating a memory with “a twist of surprise”. Mridul launched his next career move as Senior Sous Chef with the first Fairmont in Jaipur, India in 2012. In his time with the Fairmont there, he was appointed to be the Chef Judge on the famous TV reality show, Master Chef India Season 3.
Believing in traveling as his most valuable career investment, Mridul arrived in Canada joining The Fairmont Waterfront in 2013 as Executive Sous Chef, putting into practice his belief that “you don't need to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces - just good food from freshest of ingredients".
Chef Bhatt in the patio area.
The Harvest Room.
He moved to Edmonton, joining The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald as Executive Chef in June 2017, to discover what the Prairies have to offer for culinary experiences. He is excited to be a part of the growing foodie scene in Edmonton, and bring The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald to the next level in culinary experiences, developing its sustainability programs: it’s beehives, herb garden and seeing what else he can bring to the table. The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald – Exterior
Wishing Our Canadian Competitor Success in Keelung, Taiwan!
Joseph Tran – International Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition Taiwan 2018 entrants from as many as 20 other countries for a five-week culinary course at le Cordon Bleu, and Wüsthof chefs’ knives. Joseph has been practicing long and hard at the Inn at Laurel Point in Victoria, working under the guidance of Executive Chef Takashi Ito C.C.C., Victoria Vice-Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire.
Gold medallist Joseph Tran.
Imagine entering a room and being presented with a mystery basket containing seasonal ingredients, sometimes ones you have never seen before. You are then asked to compose and execute a three-course menu (first course, main course, and dessert) for four people using all of these ingredients, as well as drawing on a variety of staples from a pantry. Your written menu must be completed within the first half-hour, and then three and a half hours are allowed for preparation, after which the finished dishes are presented to be judged in fifteen minute intervals. It is an extremely challenging competition. On September 7-8, 2018, our own Joseph Tran will be in Keelung to meet that challenge at the 42nd Concours International des Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs, competing against 10
Competitors from Bailliages around the world will meet to experience a week of educational culinary experiences, as well as to take part in the 2018 competition on Friday September 7th. The Awards Ceremony on Saturday September 8th will be followed by a celebratory Gala Dinner.
Taiwan lies on the Tropic of Cancer. Its cultures are a hybrid blend of various sources, incorporating elements of traditional Chinese culture, attributable to the historical and ancestry origin of the majority of its current residents, Japanese culture, traditional Confucian beliefs, and increasingly Western values.
Keelung, the host city for the Final, is the country’s second largest seaport situated in the north-eastern part of Taiwan. It borders New Taipei with which it forms the Taipei-Keelung metropolitan area, along with Taipei itself.
Beautiful volcanic island Keelung Islet, off the coast of Keelung Harbour.
The young chefs will compete in the kitchens of the Department of Culinary Arts at the Ching Kuo Institute, whose motto is “cooking is a work of art, while dining is a matter of culture”. The Department was established for anyone who seeks to pursue their passion and prepare for professional career in the international culinary industry, patisserie, baking and the food service industry. Designed by top chefs in Taiwan, its programmes prepare the students to not only become well-rounded culinary professionals who know more than just great technique, but through a multi-disciplinary approach to culinary education also to develop their scientific understanding and leadership skills.
Joseph Tran, from the Inn at Laurel Point Victoria At 25-years-old, Joseph Tran has already been cooking for a decade; he started in his father’s restaurant in London, Ontario as a dishwasher and his hard work brought him to the line. Food has always been an important part of Tran’s life, and although slim in build, he loves to eat! His favourite meals are home-made dishes, such as a vermicelli bowl with spring rolls and, originating from Vietnam, his background has significantly influenced his style of cooking. Playing with flavour and texture profiles has his dishes dancing between sweet and sour, and crispy and chewy, each bite a surprise to the senses. After realizing his passion for cooking, Tran took culinary skills and culinary management at Fanshawe College in London, Ontario in 2013. After graduating, Joseph began working in a local hotel restaurant. Tran’s talent was quickly recognized by his chef in London, who suggested that Tran be mentored by Chef Takashi Ito of Inn at Laurel Point in Victoria, B.C. Chef Ito travelled from Victoria to interview Tran and recognizing the potential in this young cook, hired Joseph to work at AURA waterfront restaurant + patio, Inn at Laurel Point’s acclaimed restaurant. In his two years at AURA, Tran’s dedication and zeal has resulted in his rapid rise up the culinary ladder to his current position as first cook. Although Joseph is quiet and humble, his personality and talent are anything but as he constantly experiments with new dishes and combinations. Always looking to improve, Tran observes his surroundings and regularly asks questions, leaving no stone unturned. He has even taken his work home with him, creating a professional kitchen of his own, complete with a deep fryer. This bright young man started competing while he was in culinary school, and thrived in the competitive environment. Most notably Tran has taken second place in a national cooking competition, and first place in B.C. Iron Chef. He says it is the thrill and the rush that attracts him to compete. His calm demeanor may make him seem like a dark horse, but he is a force to be reckoned with. To prepare for La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Jeunes Chefs competition, Tran says he broke all the principals down, practicing each component on its own. Noting that no matter how much you
practice, when it comes to the black box, you have no idea what you will be working with – an element he loves. Practicing for his latest competition was a group effort, led by Executive Chef Takashi Ito, and supported by the culinary team at Inn at Laurel Point. In order to prepare Tran for this high-level competition Chef Ito called upon other local Chaîne des Rôtisseurs members in Victoria, who graciously allowed Tran to practice in their kitchens, so he was equally prepared for a variety of ingredients and cooking environments. One ingredient, however, will always be a challenge for Tran, as he has a severe shellfish allergy. When using the ingredient, Tran says he wears layers of gloves, and takes extra care. Joseph has become an expert at blind seasoning seafood, since he cannot actually taste a dish containing it. His expertise was noted during the competition when he prepared a marbled scallop and sea bass mousse dyed with squid ink for his appetizer. However, Tran’s aptitude for desserts sets him apart from many competitors. In his last three competitions, his desserts have been his strongest dish. Tran’s diverse skillset makes it hard to believe he is only 25 years old. For Tran, it is his love of creating, curiosity and passion for learning that drives him to excel in all areas of the kitchen.
The kitchen “heats up” at the National Competition held in Ottawa.
Chefs Jan Hansen and Murakami watch the action closely.
Chef Hansen (left) and Chef Murakami (right) with medallists (left to right) David Ryc (bronze), Joseph Tran (gold) and Nathan Sundeen (silver).
Photos courtesy of Roch Givogue Photography
Joseph (third from right) awaits the results along with his fellow competitors.
Sponsors of the Jeunes Chefs Competition
Canadian Restaurateur Profiles Editor’s Note: Over the few years, we have featured our Canadian Chefs and Hoteliers in the International Chaine E-Newsletter “Chaîne Online News” and our own La Chaine in Canada Newsletter. For 2018, we are pleased to profile our Canadian Restaurateurs, professional Chaine members who are owner-operators - people who have worked hard to get where they are, and have made a difference to their culinary community. Each Restaurateur will be profiled here in this regular column starting with their background (alphabetically by last name) and then a compilation of their answers to each of a set of six questions posed by the international publication.
George Chistakos, Maître Restaurateur Owner, Brooklyn Warehouse, Halifax Nova Scotia To say the Chistakos family has a “long and successful history” in the hospitality industry would certainly be an understatement - George Chistakos is the third generation to work in the restaurant business. His grandparents arrived in Canada from Greece in 1956. Today, you will find a reference to that year “1956” everywhere in the Chistakos shops. His grandfather, known as “Mr. George”, had worked as a waiter in Greece and quickly found similar work in Canada. Within a year, he’d opened his first restaurant and became a legend, rolling around Nova Scotia in his big red van, talking directly to farmers and fishermen; setting up one of the original produce channels. By 1977, when he retired, he had opened three more own in Halifax and Dartmouth, along with helping other family members do the same. Young George’s father Leo claims he was in the restaurant business four years before he was born. One of his earliest memories is peeling potatoes on the kitchen stoop while his father cooked and his mother served. His son George pulls a lot of his inspiration from him, and he knew he had to go down the same road. When young George Christakos himself started working in the family business at a young age, he would daydream about the businesses he would open when he was older.
George Chistakos, Maître Restaurateur
George worked his way through the industry from the ground up as a busboy, bartender and waiter before moving on to management and consulting positions. Before long, he knew it was time to apply what he had learned to his own business. During university
attending engineering school, he opened the café above the Blowers Street Paperchase that was run by his father and uncle. At about this time, George had just landed a manager’s position with the newly revamped Armview Restaurant, after working at Opa! Greek Cuisine as a waiter and studying for his sommelier credentials. He wanted the same thing as his dad and grandfather – his own restaurant; to be his own boss.
them while charting a financially-sustainable, dynamic course, never allowing stagnation for a second.
George and his father Leo.
George (right) tests a wine along with (from left) Leah O’Brien and Matt Dunlop from Front of House Management Team.
When George was 23, his father suggested that the two of them start their own venture. On a family road trip to Brooklyn, NY, they saw what George describes as the epicentre of New York food culture — forever young, always evolving, affordable and never chained to one particular cuisine — and the concept for Halifax’s Brooklyn Warehouse was born. Founded in 2007, inspired by Joe Beef in Montréal and The Spotted Pig in New York, it was intended to be a hip little café with a cool lunch menu and a few wines by the glass. After a few short months, however, they realized the neighbourhood was missing an eatery, and there was a community ready to accept it. So, Leo and George got into the kitchen, built up a robust food service and, shortly thereafter, a dinner menu that included their now famous burger. Brooklyn Warehouse has continuously been ranked one of the best restaurants in Halifax and has already earned a full suite of awards for innovative menu items and its great atmosphere. This was followed by Ace Burger Co. in 2012, and a recent venture, Battery Park Beer Bar & Eatery (in partnership with North Brewing Company in Dartmouth) in December 2015. Leo insists that in their relationship George is actually the father and he is the son. Leo is usually the one with the big ideas, and George sifts through
Ace Burger is a case in point. The 2007/2008 financial crisis had caused many closures of fine dining restaurants, top chefs were being laid off and popping up again in less traditional establishments like food trucks. It was evident that the whole gourmet burger thing was trending across Canada and the father-son duo knew that there would be players in their market soon—so they were going to have to jump into the market first before competitors did. They wanted to do something different; something cool and simple - a pop-up restaurant over a weekend. They built the idea around one of their most popular menu items; the Brooklyn Burger. After testing out ACE Burger as a pop-up shop, George and his father felt confident in investing in the equipment and renovations needed to turn the popup into a permanent fixture. Ace Burger is based on the classic burger joints of the 40’s and 50’s; made popular with tasty, simple, handcrafted eats from local ingredients; farm to table cooking.
Ace Burger – note the “1956” in the logo.
Now, on top of overseeing Brooklyn and a growing empire, George is a wine instructor at the culinary and tourism programs at NSCC. The opportunity to influence more young culinarians, and further elevate the culinary scene, was awfully enticing to him. He took a few minutes out of his busy schedule to answer a series of questions for La Chaîne in Canada: 1. Where does your love of gastronomy come from? As a restaurateur I am dedicated to the Slow Food philosophy which is, in reality, was how I grew up “cooking like our grandparents.” This is how they cooked in the old country. Slow food is the original local food movement that started in Italy that now has over one hundred thousand members globally who want to be connected to their food, the people who produce it and ensure that it’s sustainable for the long-term. His father Leo was quoted as saying in a past article, “There has been a forty- to fifty-year derailment of the food system in North America and a group of regulators protecting the interests of big business, hindering small-scale, artisanal food production. Ultimately, we’re going in the right direction; I see the signs. More people get it now.” And thus, we’re back to the foraged, farmed and indigenous Nova Scotia foods found in the many dishes here in our restaurants. 2. You have obviously inspired a lot of professionals in the industry – from where (or who) do you draw your inspiration? I’m someone who thinks it’s important to pay your dues and be respectful of those that have come before you. When we first opened I was looking at a few key restaurants in the city as the benchmark. My goal was for Brooklyn to be mentioned in the same sentence as those places. When that happened, when we established ourselves as a real player on the scene it then became important to differentiate ourselves. I’ve always wanted Brooklyn to speak to the ‘young at heart’ so we built a brand and a voice that was irreverent, hip, and unlike any other restaurant brand in the city. The personalities pushing the boundaries, giving us confidence were Chuck Hughes, Martin Picard, Anthony Bourdain, David Chang and the Freds of Joe Beef. 18
3. What would you say have been the biggest developments in hospitality that you have witnessed in your years as a Restauranteur? I’m excited about being part of the local movement in Halifax. There are many others here who are committed to building on Nova Scotia’s emerging reputation as a world leader in local food culture. 4. What do you think are the most significant trends and perhaps challenges faced in the industry today? Restaurants like Brooklyn will always evolve. Change is the only constant. It’s not the same as when it started, and it certainly won’t be the same two years from now. We will continue to strive to bring the best and most relevant Nova Scotia experience to the table, one that customers will be proud of and certainly never bored by. 5. What do you think today’s industry professionals should be doing to keep moving gastronomy and hospitality to a new level? It’s important to give Chefs the room to develop their own brand. I feel it is our responsibility to leave the food culture of our region in a better state than when we found it. That’s why we try to push the boundaries, to make comfortable change for our people. We are always asking ourselves what is relevant, and what is coming next. These questions drive the majority of our food, marketing, and service decisions these days. In the restaurant, we have tried to cultivate an environment of education and growth for our team, making it possible for them to work in the kitchen and go through the NSCC culinary program at the same time. 6. What advice would you give to young and aspiring restauranteurs? I think there are three key things: 1) Do the due diligence Starting up any enterprise without knowing the volume of sales you are going to have, or not knowing about that thing (whatever that thing may be) you need to get the job done is a challenge.
Take the time to do a mock service with friends and family so you can see any potential pitfalls or tools you may need to execute properly on opening day. 2) Marketing is huge You can’t just open your doors and think people are going to come in because you feel you have a cool space and a good idea. You have to create awareness and do it frequently. Anywhere you spread the word is good—print, online, in person. Let people know what you are doing, and let them know the benefits of coming to visit your business.
3) Numbers are important Nobody is going to give you a medal at the end of the day for how many hours you put in. If you aren’t making your rations then in a way, it’s all for nothing. Getting comfortable with numbers and the math you’ll need to run your business will help save you the stress and money later on.
Scott Jaeger, Vancouver Vice-Conseiller Culinaire Executive Chef and Owner, The Pear Tree, Burnaby, British Columbia Few who know the culinary world intimately would argue that operating a restaurant is not for the faint of heart. To be successful, and to sustain that success, you need five key ingredients – passion, talent, opportunity, vision and drive. Scott Jaeger, ViceConseillier Culinaire of the Vancouver Bailliage and chef/owner of the award-winning The Pear Tree Restaurant in Burnaby, BC, is very much a case in point. Over the past 20 years, Scott, together with his wife and co-owner Stephanie, has developed The Pear Tree into a world-class restaurant, earning it nationwide acclaim as well as a coveted Zagat rating. Scott’s says his passion for his profession began “in the kitchen,” but he admits that he was inspired by more than just the excitement of exploring new ingredients, flavours and textures: “I loved the people, the stainless steel, the pressure. It seemed to be like no other job.” It soon became evident that Scott not only had the fire in his belly for cooking, he also had the talent – that intangible, almost magical gift of understanding ingredients, thinking creatively, and bringing fresh ideas to the plate. What he needed was experience. For Scott, that pivotal moment in his quest to develop his skills came when he began an apprenticeship with his early culinary mentor Grand Officier Maître Rôtisseur Bruno Marti, then owner/chef of his own renowned BC restaurant, La Belle Auberge.
Scott Jaeger, Vancouver Vice-Conseiller Culinaire
“I was very fortunate to have had exposure to the right chefs at the right time in my life,” says Scott. “Bruno was very much responsible for exposing me to so many things that I continue to be passionate about today.”
at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or in Lyon, France, and in 2008 and 2016 he competed as a member of the Canadian National Culinary team, which earned a grand total of 6 gold medals in Erfurt, Germany.
Following his apprenticeship with Chef Marti, Scott travelled overseas to expand his culinary horizons, including working at the Waldorf Hotel in London, and subsequent contracts in France, Switzerland and Australia. It was all great experience, but Scott and Stephanie knew their destinies lay beyond working for others. Their shared vision was to establish their own restaurant – a place that would reflect their ideas and sensibilities, with Scott focused on the cuisine while Stephanie attended to the wine list and every detail of front-of-house service.
Chef Jaeger explains the plating at Fall 2014 Diner Amical at The Pear Tree.
Chef Jaeger in his kitchen.
That dream finally became reality on Christmas Day 1997, when the couple took ownership of a preexisting restaurant in the Vancouver suburban enclave of Burnaby Heights. A few weeks later, in January 1998, The Pear Tree opened its doors, creating an immediate sensation both with local diners and food critics. Within the year, The Pear Tree was heralded as “Best New Restaurant” by both Vancouver Magazine and the BC Restaurant Association, and earned Scott recognition as “Restaurateur of the Year.” Over the years, those honours have been joined by recognition in Canada’s Top 100 Restaurants listing and Where Chefs Eat, to name but a few. And in 2009 came yet another accolade when Scott was inducted into the BCRFA’s Restaurant Hall of Fame. One of the unique things about Scott is the fact that his passion for cooking has never been confined to his own kitchen. In 2007, Scott represented Canada 20
While The Pear Tree remains Scott and Stephanie’s core focus, Scott has not forgotten the importance of giving back to the industry that has given him so much. In addition to operating his restaurant, Scott is a long-time member of the Canadian Culinary Federation as well as a being the immediate pastpresident of the Chef’s Table Society, where he has served for the past five years. There’s no question Scott is a leader in the restaurant business, however, perhaps the place where he continues to make his greatest contribution is in his ongoing role as a mentor to up-and-coming culinary talents. Over the years, Scott, a long-time supporter and organizer of the regional Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs competition in BC, has personally mentored four competitors who have gone on to compete on the National and also the International stage. In fact, in 2014, Scott’s then chef Michael Christiansen went on to win the Gold Medal at the prestigious International Jeunes Chefs Rôtisseurs competition in Budapest, Hungary. And last year, lightning struck again when his current young chef, Michael Roszell, represented Canada at the 2017 competition in Frankfurt, Germany. Scott says that while he enjoys helping with the development of promising young talents, the experience is very much a two-way street.
“I’m proud to work with the young chefs who come through my kitchen door,” says Scott, whose efforts earned him Vancouver Magazine’s “Mentorship” award in 2016. “They keep my drive alive while they are with me and I’m also inspired by them as they take on new challenges in their own futures.”
websites. Today, clientele have already started their experience before they even walk through the door.” “Another big factor that is changing the restaurant landscape in the Vancouver market has been the real-estate crunch. Space is so expensive that it’s almost impossible for the independent restaurant to exist,” says Scott. “It’s really changing the formula to dining out.” The long-term success of The Pear Tree, and especially in the face of systemic challenges, is very much a testament to Scott and Stephanie’s unwavering commitment to excellence as well as their astute management. It’s a formula that continues to work well for them and one that could easily help inform the path of other aspiring young restaurateurs who, like them, dream of having their own place.
General Manager and heart of the organization, Stephanie Jaeger.
This year, Scott and Stephanie’s Pear Tree is celebrating a true milestone – its 20th year. Scott admits that as he reflects on the past two decades, he can’t help being struck by how much the restaurant business has changed. “The role of technology in our business has been huge,” observes Scott. “When we opened The Pear Tree 20 years ago hardly any restaurants had
“What I would say to aspiring restaurateurs is that they should hang on to their individuality,” says Scott. “Rather than keeping up with the Joneses, they need to blaze their own trails.” “In addition to that I’d say you need to have a wellthought-out plan to open, and you need to stick to it! Very few restaurants run themselves. You need to be prepared to continually put in the work to create and maintain standards. That’s what will make your business successful.”
Daryl Pope, Maître Rôtisseur Executive Chef and Owner, Artisan Bistro, Victoria B.C. Daryl Pope is Executive Chef and Owner of Artisan Bistro, an upscale French Bistro located in Broadmead, Victoria B.C. Chef Pope discovered his passion for cooking in his teens and graduated from Camosun College with his Red Seal. He apprenticed at the then very exclusive Aerie Resort under Executive Chef Christophe Letard when Conde Nast Magazine rated the establishment as Best Resort in North America two years in a row. Cooking competitions featured early in Chef Pope’s career and he won first place in the Grand Marnier Dessert Challenge. In 2011, he placed third of twelve chefs who competed in the Chef of the Year Cooking Competition. Daryl continued to develop his culinary skills cooking at several Victoria restaurants. Daryl Pope, Maître Rôtisseur
He was working with Executive Chef, Richard Luttman, at the Old English Inn Resort when it was awarded second Place as Best New Restaurant in Canada. Subsequently, Chef Pope accepted the position of Corporate Chef at SYSCO, Victoria. His then focus was in providing consulting services to many restaurants throughout Vancouver Island, assisting them to grow and develop their business by introducing creative and unique dishes to their menu. Later, Chef Pope was contracted by the Royal Canadian Navy to set up the kitchens and develop menus for the Service’s ten Orca Class Vessels. Bailli Regional Gail Gable presents the evening’s accolade to Executive Chef-owner Daryl Pope (right) and sous chef Andy Campbell.
(left to right) (Left to right) Castro Boateng, Maître Rôtisseur; Nelles Shackleton, Officier; and Daryl Pope at his intronization.
Returning to traditional restaurant cooking, Chef Pope was called to work in Edmonton and accepted the position of Restaurant Chef at The Westin Hotel. However, returning to Vancouver Island, at some time in the future, was always high in Daryl’s priorities. This was satisfied when later he was appointed as Restaurant Chef for one of the last Four Star Restaurants operating in Victoria, at the Hotel Grand Pacific. Chef Pope had always anticipated that he would own and operate his own establishment one day. With his partners, he opened Artisan Bistro two years ago and it is proving to be a great success. It is the only restaurant in the area offering fine dining and a complementary wine list as well as a selection of other menu offerings at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Throughout his career, Chef Pope has cooked for several Chaîne dinner events in BC and Alberta.
Daryl hard at work in his kitchen.
He took a few minutes out of his busy schedule to answer a series of questions for La Chaîne in Canada:
4. What do you think are the most significant trends and perhaps challenges faced in the industry today?
1. Where does your love of gastronomy come from?
Trend: People are starting to eat healthy and want to see some healthier options on the menu.
I had an allergy to wheat & dairy when I was a kid, which made me value the food I eat. I grew out of the allergy at age 15 when I started eating everything I hadn't eaten before and I wanted to know how to make great food.
5. What do you think today’s industry professionals should be doing to keep moving gastronomy and hospitality to a new level?
2. You have obviously inspired a lot of professionals in the industry – from where (or who) do you draw your inspiration? I am inspired by trying & creating new dishes; so many cuisines and combinations to try! Love them all! 3. What would you say have been the biggest developments in hospitality that you have witnessed in your years as a Restauranteur? The challenges faced in hiring staff, no-one really wants to work for little pay and long hours in a stressful industry. I hope things can change to make it attractive again.
“Don’t make the same dish”. So many restaurants make the same food, over and over. Whereas a twist or change of ingredients can make it special. I can think of Liver & Onions about 5 different ways that no-one has eaten before. It’s like art, who would go to see the same painting if it was in every art gallery? 6. What advice would you give to young and aspiring restauranteurs? Use quality ingredients when cooking. It shows. Shop Local and support our farmers here. So many cut corners and buy the cheap stuff, it’s not worth it. In this trade, to produce quality, it starts with the ingredients. 23
IN THE NEWS 1st International OMGD Grand Chapitre 2018 To Be Held In Strasbourg
The Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs “OMGD” is the section of the Chaîne Des Rôtisseurs that provides unique opportunities for those with a special interest in wines, spirits, liqueurs and crafted beverages, to enjoy and expand their experiences. The OMGD Committee and the Siége Mondial, in coordination with the Bailliage Provincial d’Alsace have organized the 1st International OMGD Grand Chapitre 2018 to be held in Strasbourg from October 18 – 21, 2018. Take this opportunity to participate, learn, and enjoy the best of the Chaîne and OMGD. Wine enthusiasts and wine professionals from all countries are invited. Whether an amateur or a professional, the common denominator will be your passion for wine!
Experience three days of visits and tastings of the wines in the Alsace Region including France and Germany (Regions Alsace – Baden-Schwarzwald – Baden-Württemberg – Pfalz). Members (regardless of country in which you belong) are invited to participate as this is an event of the OMGD and Siége Mondial. Register early as there is a limit of 160 participants and you don’t want to be disappointed. Go to home page on the Chaine International website at http://www.chainedesrotisseurs.com and click on OMGD off the main menu. Then select “Chaiptres” off the OMGD home page to download a complete program, and registration material, for this outstanding event!
“Chaine of Friends” at Victoria Bailliage Induction Dinner! At the Victoria induction dinner, December 3, Inn at Laurel Point, Victoria
Canadian National Bailliage Continues to Support Local Culinary Education
La Chaine des Rôtisseurs has made a commitment internationally to supporting Culinary education and the advancement of the gastronomic arts at all levels. This commitment is no less prevalent in Canada and goes far beyond just our local Competitions and the National Jeune Chefs competition held each year in conjunction with our Annual Meeting. There is no better place to encourage and support young culinary professionals then right at the beginning of their journey. This support is undertaken with scholarships awarded to culinary schools across the country. Recent scholarships over the past few years have been awarded to SAIT (Calgary); Camosun College (Victoria); Red River Community College (Winnipeg); Nova Scotia Community College; Edmonton and Vancouver Community College. Local Bailliage donations to approved school scholarship and bursary programs are matched by National up to the amount of $1250. These matching funds are sourced from membership dues collected at the National level and are available to every local Bailliage should they choose to make a sponsorship donation to a local facility in their area. Actual donation levels from the local Bailliage to the school(s) of its choice are determined by the local Bailliage itself.
The current National guidelines (which can be augmented by local requirements as deemed fit) are as follows:
Awards can be given to students in culinary programs based on academics, excellence or financial need. There are no restrictions on how they spend the money but it is usually used to defer costs of tuition or equipment National Council will provide an additional $1000 to the college based on matching monies from the local Bailliage. The money is sent directly to the college/school but we need proof of payment – a bank statement or a letter from the culinary institution. Argentier Tony Catanese will manage the payments to the culinary educational partners, once approval has been given.
Please continue to support our new culinary professionals at both our local and national levels. These young chefs are the future of the hospitality industry.
PEOPLE AND PLACES Canadian National Executive Joins Montreal Bailliage for Diner Amical The National Council of the Bailliage du Canada was pleased to join with dignitaries, members and guests from the Montreal Bailliage for a Diner Amical in celebration of World Chaine Day on April 21, 2018. Held in conjunction with the semi-annual executive meeting of the National Council, and organized by that city’s Bailliage and Bailli Régional, Jean-Louis Souman, the Diner featured an incredible menu prepared by Executive Chef Olivier Perret and Maître Cuisinier de France Roland Del Monte of Renoir Restaurant at Sofitel Montréal Le Carré Doré. Bailli Régional Souman welcomed members and guests, introducing and thanking Sofitel General Manager Marc Pichot and Michel Busch, Montreal Bailli Régional Honoraire who organized the event. David Tetrault, Bailli Délégué du Canada then thanked David Connor, Maître Hotelier and Regional VP, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts Eastern Canada for hosting the National Board Meeting at Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth.
Takashi Murakami, National Conseiller Culinaire (left) with Samir and Rita Hanna.
Michel Busch delivered the accolade thanking Executive Chef Olivier Perret; Maître Cuisinier de France Roland Del Monte along with the kitchen and serving brigades. With well over 40 attendees, an outstanding World Chaine Day event!
(Left to right) Linda Jones; Jean-Claude Phisel, Bailli Provincial Honoraire; Jacques Viau, Chevalier; Ginette Normandeau Phisel, Montreal Vice-Argentier; and Tony Catanese, Argentier du Canada.
All in all, an outstanding event!
Compliments to Bailli Régional JeanLouis Souman and his organizing committee!
Owners of Manoir Chamberland (Montebello, Quebec) and prospective members of La Chaine, flank David Connor, Maître Hotelier.
Renoir Sofitel Hotel Trilogie d’amuse-bouche Veuve Clicquot Brut Les Entrees - Appetizers Médaillon de homard en gelée lodée, crème à l’avocat, mayonnaise au corail et caviar Lobster medallion in iodized jelly, avocado cream, coral and caviar mayonnaise et/and Gnocchi a la ricotta de buffione, beurre à la sauge et Fleur des Monts Buffalo ricotta gnocchi, sage butter and Fleur des Monts cheese
Mark Wilson, Bailli Provincial des Prairies (left) and Jean-Guy Gorley, Chancelier du Canada.
Mâcon-Bussieres Claude Seigneuret, 2014 Plat Principal – Main Course Filet de beouf Rossini, pommes de terre grenailles, foie gras poêlé et sauce Périgueux Beef Rossini fillet, fingerling potatoes, pan seared foie gras and Périgueux sauce Vacqueyras Les Calades 2015 La Monardière Notre ritual du fromage – Our cheese ritual Fromages affinés de saison, gelée de poire à la vanilla Seasonal cheeses and vanilla pear jelly Côtes du Jura, Domaine Berthet-Bondet
David Tetrault, Bailli Délégué du Canada (left) with Montreal Bailli Régional Jean-Louis Souman and his wife; and Sofitel General Manager Marc Pichot with his wife Catherine.
Dessert Vacherin aux zestes d’agrumes de Roland Del Monte (MOF Glacier) Roland Del Monte citrus fruit vacherin (MOF Glacier) Riversaltes Ambré, domaine
Linda and Eric Jones, National Chargé de Press.
Michael Grimes, Echanson du Canada and Madeleine Rocheleau.
(seated) Jack Littlepage, National Chargé de Missions with Jean-Guy Gorley.
Lobster medallion in iodized jelly, avocado cream, coral and caviar mayonnaise.
Mark Wilson, Bailli Provincial des Prairies and Kerry Wilson.
Attendees await the dessert.
Bailli Régional Jean-Louis Souman (right) welcomes members and guests, accompanied by David Tetrault.
(left to right) Michel Busch, Montreal Bailli Régional Honoraire; Maître Cuisinier de France Roland Del Monte; David Tetrault, Bailli Délégué du Canada; Executive Chef Olivier Perret and Bailli Régional Jean-Louis Souman.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de la Nouvelle-Ecosse (Submitted by Jerzy Gajewski, MD, FRCSC, Vice-Chargé de Presse) Annual General Meeting Brooklyn Warehouse The first event of 2018 and our Annual General Meeting took place at Brooklyn Warehouse in January. George Christakos and Chef Stephanie Ogilvie prepared an exciting and very tasty brunch menu.
Milk poached halibut, hasselback fingerling potato, crispy guancaile, samphire, rose petal harissa saba yon
George Chistakos (centre) and his team.
Brooklyn Warehouse “The Beverages” Amuse Mimosa: Kumquat & Champagne Caesar: Clam & pickled ramp Beer: Mushrooms & hops Toad in a hole Quail egg, beef tartare Squash, black garlic & taleggio quiche Milk Poached Halibut Hasselback fingerling potato, crispy guancaile, samphire, rose petal harissa sabayon Dessert Parsnip pain perdu, Parsnip ice cream, parsnip molasses
Ian James Bailli Regional Nova Scotia.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de la Nouvelle-Ecosse continued
Annual General Meeting Gio, Prince George Hotel Chef Barry Mooney, 2017 Gold Medal Plate Winner for Halifax, prepared a not to be missed meal. Born in Halifax and raised in Bridgetown in the Annapolis Valley, Chef Mooney is a graduate of George Brown College Culinary Management Program in Toronto and as a Certified Chef de Cuisine from Humber College. His career started in Jasper Alberta at the Sawridge Convention Centre and he then spent five years at the The Fairmont Royal York Hotel in Toronto, returning to the west to The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel for five years after that.
His Honour, Lieutenant Governor of Nova Scotia, Arthur Joseph LeBlanc with Cornel Ceapa in the foreground.
He has since come home to the east coast to raise his growing family and is currently the Chef of GIO at The Prince George Hotel.
Gio Prince George Hotel
Halibut Escabeche Pumpkin, chilies, shallot, baby potato, anise 2014 Saint-Véran, France
Jerzy & Lidia Gajewski (left), Richard and Diana Norman (right).
Smoked Pork Consommé Ham hock terrine, foie gras mousse, scallop, haskap gelee, pickled carrot, spiced tuile Bison Toasted barley, mushroom, confit leek, cranberry, brussels sprouts 2012 Road 13 Merlot, Canada Cheese Ajoblanco, apple, grape, sourdough, Saint-André Roots and Shoots Beets, carrot, ginger & orange gelee, candied walnuts, sorrel, crème fraiche
George Chistakos and Chef Stephanie Ogilvie (standing).
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de la Nouvelle-Ecosse continued
Table set with serviettes featuring the Chaine des Rôtisseurs tartan.
Chef Barry Mooney, 2017 Gold Medal Plate Winner.
Smoked Pork Consommé, ham hock terrine, foie gras mousse, scallop, haskap gelee, pickled carrot, spiced tuile.
Dr. Jerzy Gajewski, Vice-Chargé de Press, and wife Lidia.
Bison toasted barley, mushroom, confit leek, cranberry, brussels sprouts.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de la Nouvelle-Ecosse continued
Bailliage de Montréal (Submitted Pierre Brault, Vice-Chargé de Presse) M. Mme Restaurant Diner Amical For our first diner amical of 2018, we decided to visit an up-and-coming young chef on the Montreal gastronomical scene, Mr. Stelio Perombelon, at M. Mme Restaurant. The theme of the evening was “Clin d’oeil à la Bourgogne”, which could be translated as “A wink to Burgundy”. The wines were selected by the house’s sommelier, Mr. Bertrand Eichel, a long-time friend of La Chaîne.
Ian James and Chef Thomas Carey (right)
The table awaits at M. Mme Restaurant.
Nicholas Carson & Josie Richard, Bailli Regional Honoraire.
(left to right) Remy Richard; Lidia Gajewska and Stephen Leahey.
Twenty members and guests joined us. Among them, we were privileged in having Mr. Jean-Louis Souman, Bailli of the Bailliage de Montréal; Mr. Michel Busch, Bailli honoraire, Officier Commandeur; Mr. Jean-Claude Phisel, Bailli Provincial Honoraire, and Mrs. Ginette Normandeau-Phisel, ViceArgentier. We were also privileged by being located just in front of the open-kitchen of the restaurant which allowed us to appreciate the work of each member of the brigade.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Montréal continued Chef Perombelon started by offering us three delicate amuse-bouche: gougères à la truffe, feuilleté à l’époisse and escargots panésaux aux herbes. We were offered an excellent Crémant de Bourgogne from Marchand-Tawse to accompany them. We were then offered a subtle tartare d’omble chevalier de Gaspésie with a miso from Massawipi. The sommelier served an excellent Macon Chaintré from Daniel & Julien Barraud to accompany this service.
A “wall of wine”.
Guests Brian Dutch and Gigi Mayne with newly inducted member Mr. Michel Gamache to the far right.
This was followed by a pintade (guinea fowl) “la rose des vents” and a foie gras, with a purée of cepes and mushrooms of Paris. This was served with a nice 2015 Burgundy from Camille Giroud.
Mario Dumas and Sylvie Pelchat.
Guests Monique Lebeuf and Michel Constant.
: Jean-Claude Phisel and Ginette Normandeau Phisel.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Montréal continued We were then offered a consommé de canard à l’ancienne (old fashioned duck consommé) with vegetable raviolis and shitake mushrooms. Two wines accompanied this service: a superb Burgundy wine, a 2015 Mercurey from the Domaine Gaëlle & Jérôme Meunier and another Burgundy wine, Les Beaux et les Bons, from le Domaine Jean-Claude Rateau, a Beaune 2015.
This exquisite dinner was followed by an “allchocolate” dessert that was accompanied with a Tawny reserve port from Niepoort, The Senior Port.
On the left, the sommelier, Mr. Laurent Blanchet. Next to him is chef Stelio Perombelon, then his brigade.
Guests Gilles Gagné and Clarisse Chabot.
Finally, the plat de résistance, a generous portion of tender beef filets cooked at basse temperature sousvide (under vacuum at very low temperature) with beets. Mr. Eichel chose two wines to accompany this service: a 2014 Château de Monthélie, Monthélie 1er Cru sur la Velle, and a 2008 Pinot Noir from the Penedès region of Spain, Ad Fines.
Bailli Regional Jean-Louis Souman thanks the chef and his brigade for an excellent evening.
Bailli Regional Jean-Louis Souman thanked Chef Perombelon and his brigade for a super evening and thanked the floor staff for a very professional service. Happy friends: Ginette Normandeau Phisel and Jacques A.Viau.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage du Manitoba (Submitted by Cameron Gray, Bailli Régional) Manitoba Bailliage Hosts Stunning Chapître Dinner The year 2017 ended on a sumptuous note with a stunning Chapître Dinner at the Fort Garry Hotel hosted by proprietor Rick Bel (Chargé de Mission Honoraire) in their glorious Provencher Ballroom.
Commandeur Awards (20 Years of Membership) Tom DeNardi, Professionel du Vin Jim Burt, Chevalier de la Chaine Maria DeNardi, Maître Rôtisseur
The outstanding cuisine of Executive Chef, Joe Wojakowski (Maître Rôtisseur) assisted by his Executive Sous Chef, Peter Beda (Chef Rôtisseur) and Sous Chef, Stephen Marchand (Chef Rôtisseur) was highlighted, assisted by their top-notch kitchen brigade. Service coordinated by Eric Wiebe, Food & Beverage Manager (Maître Restaurateur) was impeccable. The culinary team crafted an amazing holistic producer-to-table dining experience with exclusively natural and biodynamic wine selections. Cameron Gray, Bailli Regional, in his welcoming remarks noted that this Chapître marked the 25-year anniversary of the Manitoba Bailliage. He thanked founding members who were in attendance Rick Bel (Chargé de Mission Honouraire), Takashi Murakami (Conseiller Culinaire) and Bernard Mirlycourtois, Vice Conseiller Culinaire for their insight in establishing and fostering the Bailliage.
Jim Burt – Commandeur.
The intronization ceremony was officiated by David Tetrault, Bailli Délégué of Canada and assisted by Mark Wilson, Bailli Provincial. Intronisations and promotions included: Intronisations Dominique Kyle, Maître Hôtelier Sean Kirady, Chevalier de la Chaine Phong (Billy) Lai, Chef Rôtisseur Maria Grande, Dame de la Chaine Tim Palmer, Maître Rôtisseur Jeff Cameron, Chef Rôtisseur John Ferguson, Chevalier de la Chaîne Promotions Sharon Steward to Chef Rôtisseur Ed Lam to Vice Charge de Missions Tom DeNardi – Commandeur.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast
National Board members with Rick Bel and Fort Garry team. Serving Brigade with Maître Restaurateur Eric Wiebe, Food & Beverage Manager
Sous Chef Stephen Marchand, Chef Rôtisseur addresses the attendees.
Executive Chef, Joe Wojakowski, Maître Rôtisseur; Executive Sous Chef,Peter Beda, Chef Rôtisseur and Sous Chef Stephen Marchand, Chef Rôtisseur with the kitchen brigade.
New members inducted, promoted and Commandeur presentation with David Tetrault, Tony Catanese, Michael Grimes, Mark Wilson.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de l’Alberta à Calgary (Submitted by Jeff Merrin, Vice-Chargé de Presse) Diner Amîcal at Vero Bistro For the first Diner Amîcal of the year, the Calgary Bailliage was hosted by Jenny Chan and Michael Berg from Vero Bistro and it was a fantastic start to the year. To begin, attendees were offered a choice of La Todera ‘Saomi’ Prosecco Brut of Triviso or an Old Italian Fashion made with Bourbon, Montenegro Amaro, and Moscato Cherries while nibbling on four superbly prepare Hors d’Oeuvres: Rougie Duck & Foie Gras Pate, ‘Cotton Candy”, Nigiri Jamon Iberico de Bellota, Seaweed cracker, and Forest Mushrooms. The room at Vero has always provided the Chaîne members with a very intimate atmosphere and lively conversation throughout the evening. While Chef Rotisseur Jenny Chan and Michael Berg have hosted many Ordre Mondial evenings, this was their first Diner Amîcal and the menu, parings, and service were superb, reinforcing their reputation as a firstclass venue.
Vero Bistro Purea di Castagna, Arancia Rossa, Liquirizia Chestnut Puree, Blood Orange, Licorice PRA Soave Classico Staforte, Veneto, 2015
Insalata di Aragosta Spinosa alla Griglia Grilles Spiny Lobster, Radicchio, Granny Smith Apple, Candied Anchovies, Marcona Almonds, Lemon Vinaigrette Dal Cero Montecchiesi Vermentino/Chardonnay, 2016, Tuscany Cacciucco Tuscan Fish Soup with Minced Prawns, Scallops, and Mussels Altensino Rosso di Montalcino, 2015, Tuscany Risotto con Funghi Porcini e Tartufo Carnaroli Risotto, Porcini, Castelmagna Cheese, Black Truffles of Alba, Damilano Reduction Damilano Barolo, 2008, Piemonte Agnolotti Tradizionali Piemontese Stuffed with Roasted Veal& Vegetables, 12 hours Slow cooked Berkshire Pork Ragu Elio Altare Nebbiolo/Barbera d’Alba 2009, Piemonte House made Limoncello Crème Costolette di Agnello Arrosto Driview Farms Lamb Chops, Daikon Polenta, Roasted Red Pepper, Bagna Cauda La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino, 2009, Tuscany Profiterole with House Made Hazelnut Semi Freddo Warm Valrhona Dark Chocolate Sauce, Amarone Poached Pear Bussola Recioto Valpolicella Classico, 2009, Veneto D.O.P Pecorino di Toscana, D.O.P Gorgonzola Dolce, D.O.P. Taleggio, and Chestnut Honey Mignardise
First Course Black Apron Beef Carpaccio Marrow Bone Toast, Horseradish Crème Fraiche, Parmesan Crackling 2014 Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut, Okanagan
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de l’Alberta à Calgary continued
Insalata di Aragosta Spinosa alla Griglia. Jenny Chan and Michael Berg.
Diner Amîcal at Alloy On a lovely wintery night this past February, we had the pleasure of attending having our Diner Amîcal at Alloy restaurant. This dinner was Alloy’s first Chaîne event and their attention to every detail was evident throughout the evening. At the reception, the restaurants staff provided seamless service providing guests with a wonderful Brut Rosé from Bodega Norton and a lovely selection of Hors d’ouevres. Costolette di Agnello Arrosto.
: Jenny Chan and Michael Berg with kitchen and serving brigades.
The menu and wine pairings presented by Chef Herrera highlighted his South American influences. The meal that evening was very intriguing and skillfully prepared providing the Chaîne members in attendance with an event that will not soon be forgotten.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de l’Alberta à Calgary continued Alloy Remolachas Rocoto pepper roasted red beets, sesame & carrot pipian, queso freso, watercress Estampa “Reserva” Viognier 2016 Colchagua, Chile
Ceviche Wild Prawn & Albacore tuna, cherry tomatoes, citrus, cilantro, avocado, chili popcorn Alphamanta “Breva” Rose 2016 Mendoza, Argentina
Pollo Crispy chicken thighs, refried white beans, grape & jalapeno salsa, crema agria Garzon “Resra”Albarino 2016 Maldonado, Uruguay
Cochinito Brined Pork Loin, chipotle yam, lemon kale, mescal poached pear, tamarind & agave glaze Decero “remolinos” Petit Verdot 2013 Mendoza, Argentina
Carne Mulato chili & Columbian chocolate braised bison shoulder roll, vegetable escavache, yuca frites Rothschild Lafite Los Vacos “Le Dix” 2012 Colchagua, Chile
Pastel Tres leches cake, milk crumble, vanilla gelato, dulce Chantilly “Incan Trail” dessert cocktail
Members at Alloy.
Chef Rogelio Herrera (left) and Darren Fabian with Chaine plates. Ceviche.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Vancouver (Submitted by Ann Collette, Bailli Régional) Christmas at Le Crocodile The holiday season is typically the time when our thoughts turn to “home,” and for members of the Chaîne family in Vancouver, perhaps no restaurant embodies the culinary heart of home more than Grand Officier Maître Rôtisseur Michel Jacob’s iconic Le Crocodile. Indeed, a French Alsacian holiday dinner with Michel, in the warm environs of his intimate, impeccably appointed restaurant, is always cause for celebration. For the better part of three decades our Michel, owner and executive chef of Le Crocodile, has set the standard of excellence for French cuisine in his adopted home city of Vancouver, and his holiday season menu for la Chaîne this past Christmas exemplified the best of traditional French cooking and so much more.
Holiday Season Dinner at Le Crocodile Créme Brulée au Fois Gras avec Baguette Grillée Gewurztraminer Alsace
Velouté de Poivrons Rouge et Jaune Willm Meli-Melo Riesling Pinot Gris – Alsace, 2015
Filet de Cabillaud, Sauce Saffran Domaine Calot Cuvée Tradition Morgon, 2015
Aiguillettes de Canard et Côtes d’Agneau Roti aux Deux Sauces Château Patache d’aux Medoc, 2000 Sorbet à la Poire William
Crèpes Suzettes avec Sauce à l’orange, Glace Vanille Château Roumieu Sauternes, 2001
The evening began with a relaxed gathering of members and friends over champagne and canapés, followed by Chef’s five courses of custom creations with wine pairings. Overall an exquisite experience. As ever, it is not only Chef’s cuisine that consistently impresses his fellow Chaîne members, but also the impeccable attention to service and detail by his highly experienced front-of-house staff. All in all, the entire team made Christmas at Le Crocodile, a wonderful night to remember.
(Left to right) Guest Tom Lavin shares a table with Grand Maître Rôtisseurs Bruno Marti, Bailli Provincial Jane Ruddick and Chevalier Matt Petley Jones.
(Left to right) Vancouver Bailli Ann Collette, Grand Maître Rôtisseur Michel Jacob and Bailli Provincial Dr. Jane Ruddick.
Velouté de Poivrons Rouge et Jaune.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Vancouver continued
Bailli Ann Collette (right) with long-time member Tina Hills. Chevalier Brock Guthrie and his wife Darcia
(Left to right) Members David and Tracey Osachoff, Ruth Grierson and Paul Martin.
Vice-Conseiller Gastronomique Bob Charlton (left) welcomes new Westin Bayshore Hotel GM and Chaîne member Martin LeClerc and his wife Annie Pelletier.
Crèpes Suzettes avec Sauce à l’orange, Glace Vanille (Left to right): Rosemary and her son Peter Wright, Jodi Pelling, Frederick Richardson and Vancouver Vice-Argentier Owen Wright.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Vancouver continued Vancouver Launches Ordre Mondial Vancouver’s newly established Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs, under the direction of ViceEchanson Clement Lau, celebrated its inaugural event on February 5th. For his first foray, Clement opted to kick off the season with something guaranteed to warm up the crowd – a Scotch whisky tasting held in the intimate Hidden Bar at the recently opened Parq Vancouver Hotel.
Officier Jim Robertson (left) with long-time member Matt Petley Jones.
Chef Jason Labahn led the group through the experience, describing the history and unique flavour highlights of each whisky together with a thoughtful explanation for each of his choices for food pairings. It was a great event, and the perfect start for many more events to come.
Vancouver OM Vice-Echanson Clement Lau.
The special tasting event, attended by 36 Chaîne and Ordre Mondial members and friends, featured four whiskies representing a wide range of flavour profiles, each served with a canapé designed to complement each “wee dram.”
Dames de la Chaîne Betty Kirkwood (right) and Heather Crichton (left) enjoy a wee dram.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Vancouver continued
Bailliage de Victoria (Submitted by David Izard, Vice Chargé de Presse and Gail Gabel, Bailli Régional)
Ordre Mondial Hidden Bar, Parq Hotel Mars Shinshu Iwai
Annual Chapître, Festive Seasonal Dinner and Induction Gala
Miso Eggplant Tempura, Sesame Nori Salt
The Inn at Laurel Point
Glenmorangie Original 10 Year Old
This year’s Annual Chapître was a great success as the Victoria Bailliage returned to the Inn at Laurel Point with enthusiasm. Over seventy Chaîne members and guests attended the Festive Seasonal Gala Dinner. The Terrace Ballroom was a spectacular sight. It featured nine dining tables in total; each decorated in seasonal and red contrasting black highlights - a Bailli or Bailli Honoraire was seated at each table. On the terrace, an ice carving emblazoned with the Chaîne’s iconic motif stood bathed in red light against the scenic night sky and backdrop of Victoria’s waterfront.
Crispy Pork Belly, Parsley Sauce, Lemon
Lagavulin 8 Year Old Smoked Salmon, Crispy Potato, Green Onion
Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve Tobacco-rubbed Smoked Meat, Crispy Onion, Apple Mustard
We were joined by special guests David Tétrault, Bailli Délégué du Canada, and Michael Grimes, National Echanson; Dr. Jane Ruddick, Bailli Provincial; Lyle Viereck Bailli Honoraire (Officier Commandeur), and Susie Sirri, the Bailli of the Nanaimo Bailliage.
Bailli Ann Collette (second from right) and her husband Guy, with their guests for the evening.
Executive Chef Takashi Ito, Officier Maître Rôtisseur (left) and David Tetrault, Bailli Délégué du Canada.
Longtime Chaîne members Jim and Janis Connolly (far left and right), with fellow member Dr. George Luciuk.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued
Chapître and Induction Event Inn at Laurel Point
Reception Ginger & soy oyster shots Foie gras mousse Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Champagne NV
DINNER Sharing a joke at the reception.
David Tétrault presided over the induction of twelve new members -- nine of the inductees were professional members. David Flaherty and Karen Jensen received the distinction of Commandeur, while the Conseil’s Debra Gibson, Jeanne Sedun, Larry Arnold received promotions. Michael Grimes brought 16 members into the fold of the Bailliage’s recently established Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Dégustateurs (OMGD). During the welcome reception that followed, we were served delightful flutes of Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne and enjoyed delicious foie gras mousse and ginger soy oyster shooters. Reverend Ian Powell, Managing Director, Inn at Laurel Point, delivered the evening’s welcoming address. Theresa Dickinson, Maître Hôtelier Honoraire, was our master of ceremonies. Theresa in her inimitable style, outlined the evening programme, the various menu courses Executive Chef Takashi Ito, Officier Maître Rôtisseur, had planned for the event. She was joined by Larry Arnold VC Echanson and together the two --who were quite an “act” –demonstrated their knowledge with each course, with informative insights and many humorous anecdotes delivered along the way. Seafood is always a popular first course and the Salad Roll of Ahi tuna, spot prawn, avocado puree, sea urchin, seared scallop and Dungeness crab did not disappoint with its garnish of ponzu hollandaise gratin. The surprise was the pairing of two wines: Marlborough’s Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2016 and a Domaine Lafage Côtes du Roussillon Cuvée Centenaire 2015. 44
Ahi tuna & spot prawn salad roll, avocado purée, seared scallop & Dungeness crab, kimchi beurre blanc Sea urchin, ponzu hollandaise gratin Cloudy Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Domaine Lafage Cuvée Centenaire Côtes du Roussillon 2015 Cleanser (Grapefruit & mint granite) Kalbi beef tongue three mushrooms, Binchō-tan char-grilled portabello pâté, sautéed oyster King Estate Acrobat Oregon Pinot Noir 2015 Star anise braised buffalo short rib Sweetbread & black garlic Beluga lentil double-smoked bacon & chickpea cabbage roll Cinnamon squash purée Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 2015
DESSERT Itakuja chocolate Namelaka Milk chocolate gelato raspberry & mango Passion fruit coulis, pistachio candy Miguel Torres Floralis Moscatel Oro NV
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued The wine paired with the main course was a Black Hills Estate Nota Bene, a favourite of Chef Ito. It complemented the star anise braised buffalo short rib which was served with a cabbage roll of sweetbread, black garlic beluga lentil, double smoked bacon and chick pea on a puree of cinnamon squash. Dessert of Itakuja chocolate namelaka, raspberry and mango were presented on a passionfruit coulis with a touch of pistachio candy. The Miguel Torres Floralis Moscatel Oro was the dessert wine paired.
Takashi Ito (left) and Auston Lu, Banquet Chef plate the braised buffalo short rib.
A cleanser served between courses, the Grapefruit Granite, was artistically plated over hand-sculpted ice --an eleven-hour process to prepare which was meticulously crafted by Chef Ito. It was as beautiful to view as it was to taste! The Kalbi beef tongue, several types of mushrooms and a char-grilled Portobello pate and sautéed oyster followed. Marlborough was again the wine of choice with a Pinot Noir 2014.
Larry Arnold, VC Echanson presents the evening's pairing.
The Culinary Brigade was led by Executive Chef Takashi Ito and the Accolade complimented both his and the service team’s efforts in presenting a truly memorable evening. Intornizations and Awards included: Awards David Flaherty, Commandeur Karen Jensen, Commandeur
Master of Ceremonies Theresa Dickinson, Maître Hôtelier Honoraire.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued New Member Inductions Daniel Ardies, Maître Rôtisseur Castro Boateng, Maître Rôtisseur Kreg Graham, Maître Rôtisseur Nicolas Hipperson, Maître Rôtisseur Daryl Pope, Maître Rôtisseur Heather Power, Maître Restaurateur Philippe Bures, Maître Restaurateur Honoraire Nolan Wilson, Maître Sommelier Shirley Lang, Chef Rôtisseur John Egresits, Chevalier William McKinney, Chevalier (Nanaimo) Bruce Tait, Chevalier
(left to right) Ryan Harney, Chef Tournant; Takashi Ito; and Manpreet, Restaurant Chef listen to the Accolade.
Promotions Debra Gibson, Vice-Argentier Jeanne Sedun, Vice-Conseiller Gastronomique Larry Arnold, Vice -Echanson L’ Ordre Mondiale Larry Arnold Ian Batey Jeffrey Brothers Sara Burchnall John Egresits David Flaherty Gail Gabel Ian Hughes David Izard Karen Jensen Jack Littlepage Jack Logan Spencer Massie Michael Morres Jeanne Sedun Nelles Shackleton Eric Spurling Allan Tyson Nolan Wilson
The Serving Brigade.
Takashi Ito (centre) with Kitchen Brigade.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued
The festive Terrace Ballroom.
Dignitaries and Members inducted and promoted.
New members of the Victoria L’ Ordre Mondial.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued Artisan Bistro Dinner Amical The Bailliage’s March Dinner Amical event was hosted by Executive Chef and Owner Daryl Pope, Maître Rôtisseur and Sommelier Nolan Wilson, Maître Sommelier at Artisan Bistro located in the Broadmead Village, a short drive from downtown Victoria. A few weeks earlier, Daryl and Nolan oversaw the wine pairing with two of our Bailliage members in attendance. Nolan had selected over a dozen wines as potential candidates to complement the six menu courses that Daryl had prepared. Chef was also interested in hearing our comments on the flavours and proposed presentation of each dish.
Artisan Bistro Tuna poke Crispy wonton; Avocado mango Chili vinaigrette, Soy syrup Château de la Gravelle Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre Prosciutto & Fig Salad Heirloom tomatoes, Burrata, fresh basil Elodie Rosé Fruité, Vin de Pays du Var Butter poached lobster Goat cheese tortellini, Braised leeks, Masago, grilled asparagus Foxtrot Chardonnay, Naramata Okanagan 2015 Ostrich Fan White balsamic poached pearl onion, Apple butter, Brussels sprout leaves, Foie gras demi Château Bel-Air Lagrave Moulis-en-Médoc 1998 Bacon & chocolate fried bacon jam panettone, White chocolate ice cream, Pecan praline Skaha Rogue, Kraze Legz Winery Kaleden, BC 2014
Attendees arrive for the Artisan Bistro Dinner Amical.
This event also provided an opportunity for members of the Bailliage de Victoria to meet the two Jeune Chef Candidates who will represent Victoria at the next provincial Jeune Commis competition to be held in Vancouver later in April. Micah Barber (Fireside Grill) and Raven Dales (The Inn at Laurel Point) are sponsored in the competition by their respective Executive Chefs, Daniel Ardies and Takashi Ito. Attending this event as guests, Micah and Raven were able to enjoy that experience which also afforded them an opportunity to observe the many aspects another Executive Chef’s professional skill in presenting multiple Chaîne quality menu courses.
Citrus & cardamom cured scallops Gingered coconut cream crackling Weingut Reichstrat Von Buhl Armand Riesling Kabinett 2013
Salt spring island lamb tartar Korean black garlic, salt cured quail’s egg yolk, radish, watercress Louis Massing Rosé Premier Cru Brut NV
Veal two ways Braised cheek & roasted loin Heirloom carrots, sunchoke, walnut, black truffle & crunchy things Georges Duboeuf Jean-Ernest Descombes Morgon 2011 Beronia Rioja Reserva 2011
Carbonated “Wintermelon” mint foam Moonstruck Bedis blue cheese Beet and celery salad, quince gelee Executive Chef Daryl Pope discusses the menu.
Textures of Pear
citrus poached bosc, Anjou pearls, Bartlett & Empress Honey semifredo Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr. Loosen Eroica Gold Riesling Kabinett 2013
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued From the very delicate Poke first course, then moving on to the fig and prosciutto second course, those at our table were impressed with the delicately balanced combination of flavours, none of which overwhelmed another. The house‐made Burrata was superb and the Goat Cheese Tortelloni and tender lobster tail were favourites as was the Elodie Frutie Rose pairing. Chef commented on the lean qualities of ostrich meat and had complemented it with a creamy pâté de foie sauce and a touch of mildlyspiced apple puree. The wine pairing of a 1998 Bel‐ Air Medoc was a perfect choice. Sommelier Nolan Wilson carefully pours one of the selected wines.
The serving brigade.
Kitchen brigade hard at work.
The dessert course offered those “three necessities of life”, chocolate, ice cream and bacon. If you have not munched on a crisp rasher of chocolate covered bacon, you are in for a surprising treat!
Nolan Wilson (left) and Spencer Massie.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued Sysco Foods L’Order Mondial Luncheon On Sunday February 25th, 2018 the Victoria La Chaîne Des Rôtsseurs held a L’Order Mondial Luncheon at the Victoria corporate headquarters of SYSCO which is now the largest supplier of restaurant food and professional services in the world, serving five continents. Our hosts, Company Executive Liborio (Lee) Nanni, and SYSCO’s Executive Chef, Daniele Mereu, welcomed our eager group of twenty-four, comprising fourteen Victoria Bailliage Members, eleven of whom were both Chaine and Mondial Members, and ten partners of Members.
Lorenzo Mereu, prepares Ubriachi (drunken) Spot Prawn Smoked Tomato Mescal,
Executive Chef Danielle Mereu, Yvonne and Ron (Camonsun College Culinary Arts students)
One long table seated all twenty-four comfortably in line with a high counter that partly shielded the kitchen and food preparation area. The atmosphere was very relaxed and both Lee and Daniele were in fine and entertaining form, sharing Italian anecdotes and an amusing commentary on the seven courses to be served that afternoon. Vice-Echanson Larry Arnold had selected the wines paired with each course and started the group off with a dry Concerto Reggiano Lambruscothat bore no resemblance to the Lambrusco some remembered fondly as their first venture into trying wine in their younger years. 50
B. C’s Clos du Soleil Pinot Blanc perfectly complimented spot prawns and Dungeness crab, as did the Stemmari Rosé when paired with a roasted squash garnished with micro greens, Tahini & finely shredded goat cheese. The G Joy Junmai Ginjo Genshu Sake was a surprise selection served with a finely cubed beet Poké. Daniele extolled the virtues of using only true Amatric San Marzano plum tomatoes in the amatriciana sauce for the wild boar dish in the next course, while Lee shared stories of why and how difficult it is to obtain them in Italy for export. Nonetheless, SYSCO did have a canned supply of these special tomatoes, and when used in the sauce, Daniele said that one must use bread to soak up every drop. To demonstrate this advice, Daniele served the wild boar and Amatriciana sauce on a folded round of a specially prepared, spongelike bread. The Spinelli Montepulciano complemented this dish extremely well.
La Chaîne – Coast to Coast – Coast to Coast – Coast Bailliage de Victoria continued
Victoria’s Bailli, Gail Gabel, thanked SYSCO, Lee and Daniele for hosting the Luncheon. Both Lee and Daniele were presented with a bottle of wine, selected by Larry who knew their preferences. Sysco Foods Luncheon Ubriachi (drunken) Red Pepper Stuffed with Albacore Tuna, Spot Prawns, Smoked Tomato, Mescal, Avocado Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco Rosso Secco Vino Frizzante 2016
Trasparenze Daikon, Dungeness Crab, Chamomile, Flowers Clos du Soleil Grower’s Series Middle Bench Vineyard Similkameen Valley Pinot Blanc 2016
Il Giardino di Betlemme Ambercup Squash, Tahini, Goat Feta, Greens Stemmari Rosé Terre Siciliane IGT 2016 Ubriachi (drunken) Spot Prawn Smoked Tomato Mescal.
Poke di Barbabietole Beet Poke, Chicharron, Furikake, Sansho Pepper G Joy Junmai Ginjo Genshu Saké
Bao di Chinghiale all’Amatriciana Wild Boar, Amatriciana Sauce, Bao, Pecorino Spinelli Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2016
Vongole Veraci Orecchiee, Clams, Nduja, Chick Peas, Pecorino Pieropan Soave Classico 2015
Nuvole Lemon Truffle Soufflé Chateau Aydie Pacherenc Du Vic Bilh 2016
Trasparenze (Daikon, Dungeness Crab, Chamomile, Flowers).
We had finished the first five courses when Daniele produced a Vongole of Orecchiette in a sauce that included not only the traditional clams, but also a touch of Nduja, a creamy salami spread popular in Sicily. The Soave Classico was a perfect wine. Only Daniele, ever flamboyant, would choose to make 24 individual lemon soufflés for his luncheon finale. The touch of truffle oil in the soufflés added to the delicate aroma and the Chateau Aydie Pacherenc wine, not too sweet, was clean on the palate.
Executive Chef Mereu Danielle (Right) and son Lorenzo Mereu