Vitis • Issue 14 • Fall/Winter 2025

INTRODUCING POPLAR GROVE’S FIRST EVER

PINOT NOIR

06 – SIPS & NIBBLES

News and trends from wine country.

12 – WINE LIFE

Insights from the U.S. Sustainable Winegrowing Summit. by Christine Campbell

14 – PIPETTE

Dipping into the wide world of wine. by DJ Kearney

18 – OENOPHILE

Perfectly portable wine for “cannoisseurs.” by Tim Pawsey

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent • gnugent@glaciermedia.ca

EDITOR: Joanne Sasvari • jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq • trafiq@glaciermedia.ca

20 – IN THE CELLAR

The anything-but-rustic innovations of Red Barn. by Charlene Rooke

24 – WHAT SOMMS SAY

The oak’s on us:

Introducing California’s vibrant new wines. by Kate Dingwall

28 – WORLD OF WINE

Peeking across the border at Washington terroir. by Rhys Pender MW

32 – FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Quick pickles for your meat and cheese boards. by Joanne Sasvari

36 – LISTINGS

Your guide to B.C.’s wineries.

46 – WINE GEEK

Tannin: The bitter truth emerges. by Christine Campbell.

COVER IMAGE: Wines of British Columbia

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Stephanie Leblanc Vitis.ca

@VitisMag • @VitisMag

PUBLISHED BY: Glacier Media Group

303 W. 5th Ave., Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 778-240-4010

© Vitis 2024

This issue is complimentary.

Photo courtesy of Red Barn Winery

Andrea Johnson photo courtesy of Washington State Wine as published in Washington Wine and Food: A Cookbook by Julien Perry (Figure 1 Publishing)

Contributors

JOANNE SASVARI is editor of Vitis, The Alchemist and YAM magazines. She is a WSET-certified writer who covers food and drink for publications including Food & Wine and Edible Vancouver, and is the author of the bestselling Island Eats and Okanagan Eats cookbooks.

CHRISTINE CAMPBELL is a Vancouverbased freelance and travel writer, educator and host of the Wine Soundtrack Canada podcast. She is WSET-certified and is a French Wine Scholar. Follow Christine’s adventures in wine and abroad at girlsgogrape.com.

KATE DINGWALL is a WSET-trained wine professional and a writer, editor and photographer covering spirits, food, culture and travel for publications such as Food & Wine and Serious Eats

DJ KEARNEY is a Vancouver-based wine educator, consultant, speaker, judge and global wine expert. Creator of the New District Wine Club, she is also Terminal City Club’s director of wine and vice-president of CAPS-BC, responsible for the Best Sommelier of BC competition.

TIM PAWSEY writes and shoots at hiredbelly.com as well as for publications including Quench, TASTE and Montecristo. He’s a frequent wine judge and is a founding member of the B.C. Hospitality Foundation.

RHYS PENDER is a Master of Wine who combines his time writing, judging, teaching, consulting and dirtying his boots at his four-acre vineyard and winery, Little Farm Winery, in the Similkameen Valley.

CHARLENE ROOKE is WSET certified in wine and spirits, and an educator for Taste of Legacy, adjacent to Vancouver’s Legacy Liquor Store. She is also the drinks editor of the Liquor Control Board of Ontario’s customer magazine, Food & Drink

THE JOY OF WINE

Idon’t know about you, but I feel like I’ve had enough bad news for one year. I’m looking across the border at an election campaign that’s all about joy, and thinking yes! That’s what we need. More joy, and plenty of it, stat.

Now, I don’t want to underplay the challenges so many people in wine country are going through. I know it’s tough right now, and that it will be hard for the next couple of years at least. My heart aches for everyone in our battered wine-growing/making/selling/serving community. But we can, I hope, still take a moment to pause and think of all that is good in our world, too, and at the top of that list is the reason we’re all reading this issue of Vitis.

My most joyful moments almost always include wine. Celebrating that big accomplishment or landmark event with a bottle of bubble. Gathering the people I love around my table for a long and leisurely feast. Taking time to catch up with an old friend—or make a new one— during happy hour. Even just sitting quietly in my garden with a glass of rosé and a good book amid the lavender and bumblebees.

Groups like Wine Growers BC point out the economic benefits of our province’s wine industry. Among them: It generates approximately $3.75 billion annually, employs more than 14,000 full-time workers and its approximately 350 licensed grape wineries welcome nearly 1.2 million visitors each year. Those are important, and impressive, numbers for sure.

But the real benefits are slightly less tangible. Wine makes our food taste better. It motivates us to understand and care for the environment that produces it. It is part of a cultured life that also includes art and architecture and music and living well. Most of all, it connects us, making conversation flow and friendships easy. And it’s not just the alcohol (which, of course, should always be consumed in moderation). It’s the ritual, the grace, the merry little ting! as we clink our glasses together.

So raise a glass, support our growers and makers, and bring a little liquid joy into your life.

Joanne Sasvari, editor

Cheers to fall and happier days. Royce Sihlis photo courtesy of Wines of British Columbia

Sips & Nibbles

Vitis Staff

SHELTER FROM THE PERFECT STORM

In what has been a couple of truly bad news years, there is at last some good news to report.

In the wake of January’s devastating cold event, which decimated more than 90 per cent of the grape harvest in the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys, the provincial government is allowing wineries a one-time exemption to import grapes and/ or grape juice for vintage 2024. This will keep B.C. workers employed and give wineries something to sell in their tasting rooms when the current supply runs out; as an added bonus, it will help regions like Washington state that are dealing with an oversupply of grapes.

To help local wineries even further, B.C.-based lawyers Al Hudec and Megan O’Neill have joined with Seattle-based wine lawyer Craig Pacheco to write a comprehensive guidebook on all the regulatory issues around importing grapes, juice or unfinished wine from Washington. You can request a complimentary copy from moneill@farris.com or ahudec@ farris.com. (For more on Washington wines, see the story by Rhys Pender MW on page 24.)

Just days after that January cold snap, Alberta decided to start a war with B.C. wineries. Alberta Gaming, Liquor and Cannabis, which controls wholesale and distribution of liquor in the province, announced that it would no longer stock B.C. vintners’ products in retail stores unless they stop shipping direct to consumers on the other side of the Rockies. That dustup was resolved in July when a memorandum of understanding between the two was signed, but it has left a bad taste behind.

Now everyone is waiting to see what this fall and winter will hold. At least wildfires haven’t been a problem in wine country this year, although the season isn’t quite over yet. This fall, the Govern-

ment of B.C. is expected to announce more details on supports for wineries and growers. Meanwhile, The Old Farmers’ Almanac is predicting a colder and drier winter than normal, but let’s just hope it isn’t as cold as the last two.

Also, it bears repeating that there is still plenty of great B.C. wine to enjoy, and if there’s ever been a time when we should all be supporting local wineries, this is it. So stock up on those fall releases while you can!

Photo courtesy of Wine Growers British Columbia

ISLAND TIME, ISLAND WINES

As palates turn to lighter, crisper flavours, Vancouver Island’s small, pretty Cowichan Valley wine region is attracting new attention.

Now, as the first generation of winery owners begins to retire, younger winemakers are bringing in fresh ideas, like the Charmat-method sparkling Charme de L’île that has become the region’s calling card or the sudden passion for cool-climate Chardonnay.

Among those producers are Zac Brown and Julie Powell, who took over Alderlea Vineyards in April 2017 from the pioneering Roger and Nancy Dosman. Brown and Powell had been searching near and far for a vineyard and winery; when the Dosmans retired, it was the opportunity they’d been waiting for. They have since increased Alderlea’s production from 2,000 cases a year to 3,200 and secured more fruit from a five-acre vineyard near their own 7.5-acre property, all while following sustainable farming practices.

They have also been raking in the awards. At the 2024 All Canadian Wine Championships, they took home double gold for their 2022 Clarinet (Marechal Foch) and 2023 Pinot Gris, as well as gold for their 2023 Bacchus, 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, 2023 Valerie (a blend of Ortega and Viognier) and classic, Right Bank-style 2020 Merlot.

If you decide to visit, the tasting room is open by appointment only. alderlea.ca

In other Cowichan news:

At Unsworth Vineyards, a huge new winemaking facility is in the works, designed to produce up to 50,000 cases a year, up from the current 10,000. Winemaker Dan Wright is going to be one busy guy! All this is the result of investment by Jackson Family of California, which bought the winery in 2020. In 2022, they also purchased Blue Grouse, which since April has a new winemaker, Stacy Hornemann from Sonoma. The winery is also planting new vineyards with a focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

A TASTE OF BURROWING OWL

So often in cookbooks the wine pairing is secondary to a recipe, an afterthought or a nice-to-have rather than an essential feature. That is, if there is a pairing at all. But in Jennifer Schell Lirag’s new book, the Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Cookbook, the wine comes first.

Each section starts with one of the winery’s wines and a brief tasting note, followed by a three-course menu to pair with it. For instance, the Chardonnay (caramel, butter, grilled pineapple, white peach) is paired with Caesar salad, tagliatelle with creamy seafood sauce and crème caramel. Meanwhile, the Meritage (black plum, wild sage, licorice, roasted

red pepper) partners caramelized onion and blue cheese tart, osso buco with risotto Milanese and espresso semifreddo.

Schell Lirag created the dishes here, but was inspired by the recipes of the Wyse family that owns the winery. The book is as much their story as it is a cookbook. They were among the first to see the potential of the South Okanagan and the sun-soaked Black Sage Bench. They pioneered a certain rich, bold, juicy style of winemaking in B.C. They were also among the first to champion conservation and sustainability, long before it was fashionable, even naming their winery for the endangered bird that was being rehabilitated in the neighbourhood.

Most of all, Burrowing Owl is all about a delicious way of life, and so are the 50 or so recipes in this appealing book.

For a Pinot Noir-friendly recipe for Wild Mushroom Crostini, please visit bc.vitis.ca.

Zac Brown and Julie Powell. Alderlea Vineyards photo

TIDBITS

FAREWELL TO THE CASTLE

In what might be bittersweet news to some, what was likely the Okanagan Valley’s kitschiest tasting room is no more. That’s right: The castle at Road 13 Vineyards has been demolished.

Road 13 originally opened as Golden Mile Cellars, back in 1998, in a building designed to resemble a 17th century Bavarian castle. Mick and Pam Luckhurst purchased it in 2003 and, while they added vineyards, increased production, changed the name (in 2008) and hired a series of some of the valley’s most talented winemakers, the castle continued to stand. By the time Anthony Von Mandl bought the winery in 2018, it was looking more than a little worse for wear. A sleek new tasting room was built and, finally, over the last year or so, the castle came down. No word yet on what will go in its place.

Meanwhile, Road 13 has hired a new winemaker, Dominic McCosker, who was already the red winemaker at Mission Hill Family Estate and has an impressive resumé—among other things, while he was senior winemaker at La Frenz Winery, it was three times named Canada’s best performing small winery at the National Wine Awards. road13vineyards.com

TWO TO TRY

Road 13 Select Harvest GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) (Okanagan Valley, $45)

Bold, peppery, plush red and black fruit, supple and pretty.

Road 13 John Oliver Syrah 2020 (Okanagan Valley BC, $80)

Inky, lush, intense black and blue berries, spice, structure.

SPEARHEAD’S SUCCESS

Winemaker Grant Stanley came to Canada in 2003 from his native New Zealand (with a stop in Oregon along the way) in pursuit of Pinot Noir perfection. Now it seems he’s pretty much reached his goal. After stints at Quails’ Gate and 50th Parallel, he is now the winemaker and general manager at Spearhead Winery, which in late July was named the Winery of the Year at the 2024 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada.

In fact, the winery, which produces fewer than 10,000 cases a year, took home 12 medals (three platinum, one gold, five silver and three bronze) as well as recognition as the country’s Best Performing Small Winery and Winery of the Year. It was one of the biggest medal hauls in the awards’ history. Among Spearhead’s winning wines were eight Pinot Noirs, including the three platinum winners: 2022 Pommard Clone, 2022 Saddle Block and 2022 Club Consensus. All their wines are made in ultra-limited quantities, proving the dictum that sometimes less is indeed more. spearheadwinery.com

NEW BISTRO AT KISMET

Its fans were bereft at the end of 2023 when the muchloved Masala Bistro at Kismet Estate Winery closed. But now there’s reason to rejoice: The Dhaliwal family that owns the winery has opened a new restaurant, Manzil, in its place. They have completely transformed the space and offer a shared-plates menu that travels the Indian subcontinent with detours into local flavours and ingredients. It’s all very wine country, with lots of snacks and savoury bites, as well as intriguing dishes like sablefish curry, Indian mushroom risotto and spice-marinated Dover sole, plus, of course, Kismet’s delicious wines. kismetestatewinery.com

NEW CHEF AT LIQUIDITY

The Restaurant at Liquidity Wines has one of the most beautiful dining rooms and perhaps the best view in the entire Okanagan Valley. But over the last few years it’s been closed more often than it has been open, and even then only offered a limited experience. Now it seems to have re-opened—properly—under the leadership of chef de cuisine Josh Mueller. He was previously sous chef at Mission Hill and worked at Vancouver’s Bauhaus Restaurant and Wedgwood Hotel, among others, and brings meticulous craftsmanship to local, seasonal ingredients. We couldn’t be more thrilled. As summer was winding down, Liquidity was offering wine-paired, set-menu lunches and dinners; check the website to see what they’re doing for fall. liquiditywines.com

EVENT CALENDAR

Clear your schedule for these essential experiences

MICHELIN GUIDE VANCOUVER LAUNCH

October 3

All Vancouver foodies will be eagerly awaiting the announcement of the 2024 entries into the prestigious guide. Catch the latest at: guide.michelin. com/ca/en/british-columbia/ ca-vancouver/restaurants.

WINE CAPITAL WEEKEND

September 20 to 22

Swing by Oliver for three days of live music, dancing, good food, good wine and loads of fun. It all begins with the Kick-Off Party at District Wine Village, continues with the Cask & Keg Festival and wraps up with the family-friendly Festival of the Grape, which features the hilarious Grape Stomp, food trucks, interactive Kids Zone and artisan Merchant Market. It’s the most fun you can have in wine country. events.visitoliver.com/wine-capital-weekend

OKANAGAN FALL WINE FESTIVAL EVENTS

October 18 to 27

VICTORIA INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

October 4 to 5

Sample nearly 400 wines from 16 different countries and, of course, the theme region, Rioja, Spain, at the grand tasting in the Victoria Convention Centre, which is also the location for master classes and seminars. Plus there will be wine dinners and other events at venues around town. Tickets and information at vicwf.com

Honestly, there are so many events that are, or might be, part of the fall festival that you could pretty much celebrate the harvest from mid-September right though the first week of December. But among the events you don’t want to miss are the two big weekends, October 18-19 and 26-27, which feature Après Crush (north and south), a lively grazing event that showcases harvest-inspired bites and B.C. wines. Plus this year sees the launch of an online auction in support of the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society, one of Canada’s largest (and at 44 years old, longest-lasting) not-for-profit wine industry festival and marketing organizations. Check the website for details. thewinefestivals.com

WHISTLER CORNUCOPIA

November 7 to 17

Whistler’s annual celebration of food and drink returns for its 28th year this November with all the signature events, seminars, dinners, parties and tastings you love, including the flagship CRUSH Grand Tasting. whistlercornucopia.com

TERROIR SYMPOSIUM

November 2 to 3

Some of the most important discussions around culinary culture happen at this Calgary event, where top names in food and drink engage in transformative discussions, workshops and some terrific dinners. terroirsymposium.com

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

February 22 to March 2, 2025

It’s never too soon to start planning for VIWF, one of the oldest, biggest and most prestigious wine festivals in the world. Next year’s theme region is the United States, so expect to try some interesting drops from places beyond California. It’s an absolute must for any wine lover, with a plethora of seminars, winemaker’s dinners, trade days events and tastings to explore. vanwinefest.ca

Sandhill Wines looks to the future

SMALL LOTS, BIG PLANS, A LASTING LEGACY

As head winemaker at Sandhill Wines, Sydney Valentino knows she’s got a tough act to follow. “It was the job I was always working toward,” she says. “But when I started, I was working with Howard Soon. It’s tough as a new person to set your sights on such a prestigious role. He is very much a legend.”

Soon is indeed a legend. Recipient of the Order of Canada in 2019, he was Sandhill’s winemaker from when the winery opened in 1997 to his retirement in 2017. Along the way, he introduced the concept of single-vineyard wines to B.C. through Sandhill’s “Small Lots” wines. He also mentored a new generation of winemakers, including Valentino.

She first started working at Sandhill’s downtown Kelowna tasting room to make money while working toward a degree in chemistry and math. “Once I realized how much of winemaking is chemistry and math, I was hooked,” she says. Not long after that, she got her first job in the cellar.

After nearly a decade working for various Andrew Peller labels, in April 2023, she became Sandhill’s head winemaker. Given the catastrophic winter events of the last two years, it’s been a particularly challenging time to take on such a big role.

“Our Small Lots program has been especially curated to allow us to have library wines and to make them avail-

In downtown Kelowna, Sandhill Wines' tasting room is a popular destination for locals and visitors alike.

“ Our goal is to ensure our wines are easily accessible, approachable and that we reach as many people as possible. We continue to work hard on consistently over-delivering in quality.

able to consumers at their optimum level,” she says. Not only that, but vintage 2022 was the largest harvest she’s ever experienced. “Thanks to the conditions we saw in vintage 2022, we were able to make strategic decisions to ensure we produce enough of our most loved wines and that we release them into market at their best. For example, for our Sandhill Cabernet Merlot, we decided it will be beneficial to continue in barrel for a longer period thanks to great quality fruit we received in 2022.”

At the same time, the vineyard losses are giving them an opportunity to re-evaluate, make positive changes and build relationships with other growers.

“In the vineyards, we have a unique opportunity to partner with our vineyard team and growers to reshape the future of Sandhill,” Valentino says. “The recent backto-back winter events have created a unique opportunity for Sandhill as we aim to replant with clean, certified virus-free material that can withstand the warm summers

and cool winters of the South Okanagan. Over the next few years our vineyards will look different as we remove older vines, change our row orientation to help us work with an evolving climate and plant new vines in one of the South Okanagan’s warmest vineyards.”

She adds: “The future of Sandhill’s vineyards is exciting as we aim to lean into the natural power this vineyard has with its rocky backdrop and sandy soils.”

Eventually, they plan to go back to their long-term plan of focusing on Italian varieties like Barbera and Sangiovese. After all, Soon was the first to plant those in B.C. and it’s a fitting legacy. “I feel like going more Italian — it feels like a really good place to be for Sandhill,” Valentino says.

But first, Valentino has some work to do. “Our goal is to ensure our wines are easily accessible, approachable and that we reach as many people as possible. We continue to work hard on consistently over-delivering in quality.”

And if she ever runs into challenges, she knows she can always call on Soon. “He just mentored me the whole way through until he retired and he’s still the best sounding board I could ask for.”

Sandhill Wines

For more information, visit sandhillwines.ca

Sydney Valentino, the head winemaker at Sandhill Wines, has a proud legacy to follow — and an exciting future to explore.

Sandhill is renowned for its "small lots" wines and bold reds.

The triple bottom line

THE FUTURE IS INTERCONNECTED, AND SO ARE SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES

Christine Campbell

Sustainability is a cornerstone of the British Columbia wine industry, and one that is essential for its longterm success.

In April 2024, I attended the U.S. Sustainable Winegrowing Summit in Lodi, California, where I was inspired by cutting-edge practices in vineyard management, social responsibility and environmental stewardship. What follows are some of my takeaways, which I hope will offer inspiration for what the B.C. wine industry can continue to do to evolve and grow.

In short, it’s a holistic approach that encompasses three interdependent circles: environmental, social and economic sustainability. These “circles” are vital for maintaining the industry’s viability in a competitive global market.

The three pillars of sustainability

ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY: PROTECTING THE LAND

B.C.’s unique landscape, from the Okanagan Valley to coastal regions, offers ideal conditions for winemaking. However, this beauty comes with a responsibility: environmental stewardship. To thrive, wineries must adopt practices that safeguard the land for future generations. This includes reducing water use through drip irrigation, minimizing chemical inputs by embracing organic or biodynamic farming, and managing energy consumption with renewable resources.

Climate change presents a significant challenge, with unpredictable weather patterns affecting grape quality and yield. To address these issues, wineries are investing in research to identify grape varieties better suited to the changing climate and exploring innovative viticultural techniques that reduce their carbon footprint.

Walking the walk in environmental sustainability means committing to long-term goals, not just following trends. Some wineries have implemented carbon-neutral ENVIRONMENTAL

Sustainability starts with protecting the land, especially at a time of such unpredictable weather. Photo courtesy of Wine Growers British Columbia

operations, while others protect biodiversity by creating wildlife corridors within their vineyards. These efforts are crucial for preserving B.C.’s natural resources.

SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY: FOSTERING INCLUSIVITY

Social sustainability is just as critical as environmental efforts. At its core is inclusivity and community engagement. To be competitive on a changing world stage, the B.C. wine industry must not only produce outstanding wines, but also cultivate a culture that welcomes and supports all individuals, regardless of background.

This could include establishing diverse hiring practices, creating equitable advancement opportunities and fostering an environment where everyone—staff and guests alike—feels valued and respected.

Social sustainability also involves contributing to the local community, supporting charities, engaging in fair trade practices and investing in education and training for the next generation of wine professionals. B.C.’s wineries have the opportunity to lead by example, showing that success is measured not just by profit, but by the positive impact on people's lives.

ECONOMIC SUSTAINABILITY: SECURING THE FUTURE

The third circle, economic sustainability, is about more than balancing the books; it’s about ensuring the longterm viability of the wine business and the broader community. To navigate economic challenges such as international competition, rising production costs and fluctuating consumer demand, wineries must innovate their business models and marketing strategies. This could include embracing direct-to-consumer sales, developing new tourism offerings or exploring export opportunities in emerging markets.

Economic sustainability also means supporting local economies by sourcing materials locally, providing fair wages, and contributing to regional economic development. B.C. wineries can build a resilient industry that sustains livelihoods and strengthens the community by focusing on long-term growth rather than short-term profits.

THE INTERCONNECTED CIRCLES OF SUSTAINABILITY

Many wineries and growers are already following these practices. For those that aren’t, a good first step is pursuing accreditation from Sustainable Winegrowing BC.

SWBC is an ongoing project of the BC Wine Grape Council that manages sustainability certification and provides education and training to help vineyards and wineries establish sustainable practices. Just a few of its members include: Le Vieux Pin, Tightrope Winery, Quails’ Gate, Tantalus Vineyards, Noble Ridge, Tinhorn Creek and Hillside Estate Winery.

The three sustainability circles—environmental, social, and economic—are interconnected and essential for the long-term success of our wine industry. Adopting sustainable practices in each circle will contribute to a thriving, inclusive and resilient wine industry in British Columbia.

For more info on SWBC, visit: sustainablewinegrowingbc.ca. For information on the 2024 U.S. Sustainable Winegrowing Summit in Lodi, California, visit: lodigrowers.com/event/2024-us-sustainable-winegrowingsummit.

Social sustainability is crucial to long-term success. Photo courtesy of Wine Growers British Columbia

Pondering PIWIs

OUR GLOBAL WINE COLUMNIST AND EDUCATOR EXPLAINS WHY THESE HYBRID GRAPE VARIETIES MATTER

DJ Kearney

PIWI is the name adopted and trademarked by an international working group for the promotion of fungus-resistant grape varieties founded in Switzerland in 1999; the name is an abbreviation of the German phrase “Pilzwiderstandsfähige Traubensorten,” which means fungal-resistant vines.

PIWI vines are hybrids/crosses of Vitis species, specifically European, American and Asian grape varieties, and are already widespread in Europe; they are cultivated in the vineyard and not genetically engineered.

They are designed to produce vines with resistance properties, especially the fungal diseases powdery mildew and downy mildew, as well as bacterial diseases.

PIWIs’ robust resistance results in a significant reduction in pesticide use, and the concomitant use of la-

bour and tractor fuel. (The use of pesticides per hectare per year in viticulture is higher that the use of all other agricultural products.)

Most importantly, PIWI experts claim they taste excellent, often indistinguishable from classic grapes.

Creating a successful new variety with merit is a long-term prospect: From roughly 30,000 original seeds, perhaps one new variety will emerge about 20 years down the road.

The most common PIWI varieties include cabernet blanc, solaris, souvignier gris, muscaris, satin noir and regent. The newest varieties developed include muscat bleu, villaris, felicia, sauvignac, reberger, baron and cabernet blanc.

Regent is extensively planted in Germany, with 1,671 hectares; PIWIs comprise 3.5 per cent of all German vineyards and 10 per cent of all new plantings. Meanwhile, according to the 2022 B.C. Wine Grape Acreage Report, B.C. currently has 0.6 acres of seyval blanc planted and 0.4 of regent.

For more information, visit piwi-international.org.

CELEBRITY BEVVIES

Sip like a star when you check out these three celebrity-owned wine labels.

Q&A Wines

The players: B.C.’s own media personality Terry David Mulligan (above right), North Van-born actor-director Jason Priestley (centre) and winemaker Michael Mosny, the behind-the-scenes star who is also the proprietor of Winemaker’s CUT. The wine: Two select offerings from South Okanagan grapes—a Bordeaux-style red blend and a Rhône-style white.

Regent is a fungus-resistant hybrid variety that shows great promise. Photo courtesy of piwi-international.org

This diagram shows PIWI grape varieties entered in the 2024 PIWI International Wine Challenge where 200 wines representing 40 different PIWI grapes were judged. Diagram courtesy of piwi-international

Domaine Curry

The players: Ayesha Curry and Sydel Curry-Lee, wife and sister (respectively) of NBA megastar Stephan Curry. The wine: Their collab with a Napa winery called Coupe de Foudre, which was sold to Prisoner Wine Co., produces a Cabernet Sauvignon and a red blend, both finessed yet muscular. Maison No. 9

The players: Hip-hop star Post Malone and his pals Dre London (who is also his manager) and James Morrissey (a mega drinks brand marketer). The wine: A rosé made from Méditerranée IGP grapes. Named for Malone’s favourite tarot card to help us conjure up Mediterranean vibes.

WTF (WHAT THE FERMENTER!??)

Forget your basic stainless-steel tanks and old-school barrels. Fermentation vessels can be innovative — and beautiful. Here are just a few examples.

A 1,000-litre granite fermenter from Weingut Andreas Schmitges in the Mosel. Photo courtesy of Weingut Schmitges

Natural stone fermenter at Castell d’Encus in Costers del Segre, Spain. Photos by Raul Bobet

Concrete-inspired stainless steel egg-shaped tanks by Egginox. Photo courtesy of Egginox

A barrel bedroom at Quinta da Pachecha in the Douro, Portugal. Photo courtesy of Quinta da Pachecha

A 1,500-litre GalileOak sphere from cooper Seguin Moreau, a legendary cooperage based in Burgundy and Cognac. Photo courtesy of Seguin Moreau

Square whisky barrels at Sweden’s High Coast Distillery. Photo courtesy of High Coast Distillery

Ayesha Curry (left) and Sydel Curry-Lee. Photo courtesy of Domaine Curry

The time is right for Evolve Sparkling House

WINERY TO OPEN ON NARAMATA BENCH

Time marches on, so the saying goes, no more so than at TIME Family of Wines, where a number of exciting events are unfolding to further enhance the winery’s broad appeal for premium wine and food experiences, both in downtown Penticton—and beyond.

Next year will see a dynamic new arrival on Naramata Bench, where plans to open Evolve Sparkling House are moving towards a highly anticipated spring opening.

The dedicated sparkling facility on Lower Bench Road—just a three-minute drive from downtown Penticton—promises to be truly one of a kind. When completed, the destination will cater to wine lovers with a full range of sparkling wines including soon-to-be-released traditional method and Charmat styles, as well as a series of small-lot still wines.

The tasting room and lounge areas—under construction on two acres—occupy two stories opening onto pati-

os and a grassy picnic area overlooking the lake. The adjacent Vivant Vineyard is newly planted to Chardonnay (48 per cent), Pinot Noir (42 per cent) and Pinot Meunier (10 per cent), which will be always bottled as a single-vineyard, traditional-method blend. In time, more grapes will be sourced from a recently acquired nine-acre Summerland site, just across the lake.

The southwest-facing location also enjoys an unobstructed 180-degree panorama from every vantage point, thanks to windows across the entire facade. Another bonus: It’s just a few steps up and away from the Kettle Valley Trail.

“We’re planning to offer a more sophisticated tasting experience with patio and table service downstairs and a private upstairs retreat with covered patio for wine club members,” says Evolve’s estate manager Anna Patterson. Food service will see “more of a paired epicurean expe-

At the new Evolve tasting room, guests can sample a wide range of sparkling wines. Photos courtesy of TIME Family of Wines

“

When Chardonnay, Pinot Noir—and even Pinot Blanc—are used in B.C. sparkling wines, the results are amazing.

rience” with an educational emphasis on how food and wine pairings work.

Other planned features include different pricing options, such as a private tasting and even (carefully instructed!) sabring. Plus there’ll be “all kinds of wheel” access from the KVR, with an easy bike approach as well as safe storage.

“At the end of the day it promises to be a fun and inclusive space. One which people can leave having had a wonderful experience that’s also really memorable, as opposed to just having great wine,” adds Patterson. “We’re so excited to bring this project to life. And we can’t wait to share the amazing views and great sparkling wines with everyone around.”

AN IDEAL SITE FOR SPARKLING

TIME Family winemaker Lynzee Schatz is equally thrilled about Evolve Sparkling House. A passionate fan of sparkling wines, the award-winning Schatz sees Vivant as a “perfect” site thanks to its “long, direct sunlight hours for ripening sparkling wine grapes and also for retaining those acids we need and desire in sparkling wines.” What’s more, she says, “A great breeze off the lake helps ease disease pressure, while glacial soils encourage deep root growth and help concentrate flavours.”

Schatz adds: “B.C. is making fantastic traditional method wines—especially when given three to four or more years en tirage [aged on lees in bottle post secondary fermentation.] I believe that when Chardonnay, Pinot Noir—and even Pinot Blanc—are used in B.C. sparkling wines, the results are amazing. There are many talented

winemakers creating beautiful sparkling wines in B.C. and they’re among some of my favourites to explore and drink.”

Meanwhile, in downtown Penticton, the flagship TIME Winery has been busy adding new features to its Chronos Tasting Room and Orolo Restaurant and Cocktail Bar, as well as scheduling a series of fall tasting room special events. Local fall flavours, including Summerland-raised beef, feature prominently on Orolo’s fall menu, as well as in daily features

Upcoming new releases include a small batch Chardonnay, to be released at Orolo’s harvest long table dinner on October 17, and the inaugural Evolve Premier Traditional Method Brut—soon available online and at the tasting room. Also coming soon is Schatz’s first proprietary wine, Chronos Carpo, a celebratory blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The name is a nod to the Greek goddess who is the personification of autumn and all things to do with ripening and harvest.

All of which makes it the perfect choice with which to toast the ever-evolving landscape at TIME Family of Wines.

TIME Family of Wines

For more information, visit timewines.ca

Winemaker Lynzee Schatz is about to release her first proprietary wine for TIME Family—and is excited about the potential for Evolve's sparkling program.

Yes, we can

THE CONVENIENCE OF CANNED WINE IS JUST PART OF ITS APPEAL

Tim Pawsey

It may be hard to believe, but there’s nothing new about wine in cans. In fact, it’s almost a century since they first were produced, in California, followed by various lessthan-stellar efforts over the following 60 years or so. The most successful wines in cans were introduced by Australia’s Barokes Wines around three decades back; Barokes has since evolved into a leading global player under its globally patented Vinsafe technology.

The first North American winery in the modern age to put wine in cans was Francis Ford Coppola, which brought their sparkling Sofia (named for the famous director’s daughter) to Vancouver exactly 20 years ago. The packaging was clever and the wine quaffable, but relatively pricy. Also, in those days people were more interested in Frances Ford himself than his wines. Besides, wine in cans still sported a dubious reputation.

Back in the day, the reaction to wine packaged in anything other than bottles was somewhat predictable, even though “bag in box” had been a fixture for years: the Aussies pioneered that technology in the 1960s. Most people felt that wine that came in anything other than a

bottle was inferior—and, as for Tetra Paks, a.k.a. “milk cartons,” well, as you can imagine, the purists were just plain horrified.

Of course, there are always good reasons to stick with the tried and true. Although it’s been quite a while since the Bacchanalian beverage of choice came in amphorae or hogsheads.

THE APPEAL OF PORTABILITY

What has changed recently is that wine has moved from white linen dinner tables to picnic tables—and into a mainstream that, above all, craves convenience. Today, in great part, it’s millennials who are driving the wine-incans revolution. And their choices tend to involve a whole lot more than merely taste and tradition.

No wonder that wineries across B.C.—including Stag’s Hollow, Castoro de Oro, Mayhem, Ruby Blues, Lakeboat and Birch Block—have adopted the idea.

Cost-wise, by necessity, wine in cans is never going to appeal to the bargain shopper—at least not if it's unadulterated wine identical to the regular glass-packaged

At Lakeboat, winemaker Mireille Sauvé uses aromatic grapes to create a crushable, portable, beach-ready wine in a can. Photos courtesy of Tim Pawsey

“

Much of the can’s appeal lies in its unbreakable, ‘take me anywhere’ portability.

drop. In fact, if you do the math, by the time you do buy a bottle’s worth (three times 250 mL cans) you’ll likely pay about 10 to 15 per cent more. Then again, convenience has always come at a cost.

Rather, much of the can’s appeal lies in its unbreakable, “take me anywhere” portability.

Christa-Lee McWatters, proprietor of McWatters Consulting, appreciates that accessibility. “It provides consumers the option to drink wine rather than beer or RTD [ready-to-drink coolers or cocktails], especially on the beach or golf course, at concerts, sporting and other events,” she says.

That would include paddleboarding, says Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery winemaker Mireille Sauvé, who this summer launched her own wine in can. Sauvé came up with a lower-alcohol still wine specifically for cans, the aromatic SS Wanderer (a blend of Bacchus, Ehrenfelser, Gewürztraminer and Muscat), which, she says, can be sipped “cold, straight from the can, all day, every day.”

The idea of tasting directly from the can doesn’t appeal to everyone. Indeed, it most definitely deters some wouldbe “cannoisseurs.” However, Sauvé says it was important for her that consumers could forgo the glass. “That tiny little opening is a far cry from varietal-specific Riedel crystal,” she says, “so we used four aromatic white grapes in the blend, ensuring that a fruity, floral aroma would emanate when the drinker raised their lips to the can.”

A BREAK FROM TRADITION

Sustainability is also a prime consideration, especially when it comes to shipping. Wine in cans trumps bottles every time, as bottled wine has a significant impact on a winery’s carbon footprint. Not only are bottles far heavier to ship, cans are easier and far less costly to recycle and require less energy, as the material is processed at much lower temperatures.

Other reasons propelling canned wine sales may be less obvious. Consultant Erin Korpisto (Coferment Management) says while they’re “not just a fad” and do make sense from a sustainable standpoint, “traditional wine sales channels aren’t necessarily ideal.” Korpisto agrees that younger consumers are more open to them. “But for older demographics there is still a stigma to cans. This is why they do well in a winery setting where people can actually try before buying.”

The pre-portioned pour (equivalent to an Earl’s eightounce glass) also appeals, says Sauvé. For example, regardless of demographic, some people appreciate the opportunity to open just enough wine for one meal without having to store it for several days.

At the end of the day, while it may take longer in more cautious-to-change Canada, cans are gradually becoming a fixture on the wine industry landscape. “I think cans have a place in our market and can bridge RTD product drinkers to wine and fine wine,” says Christine Coletta, co-owner of Okanagan Crush Pad Winery.

And, besides, they’ve come a long way since Penticton’s Casabello Wines launched ”Canada Cooler” in 1984.

THREE TO TRY

Lakeboat SS Wanderer White Blend NV (Okanagan Valley, $8.95 per 250 mL can) Stonefruit aromatics, pear, apricot and orange blossom.

Ruby Blues Peace, Love & Bubbles, Frizzante Rosé (Merlot, Cab Franc & Gewurz) NV (Okanagan Valley, B.C., $33.60 for a four-pack pf 250 mL cans) Lively bubbles, strawberry, raspberry, crisp finish.

Mayhem Sparkling White 2023 (Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling) (Okanagan Valley, B.C., $88.32 for a 12-pack of 250 mL cans; online only) Constant bubbles. Pear, melon and peach.

Red barn, purple tanks

THIS RUSTIC-LOOKING WINERY TAKES AN ORGANIC APPROACH TO INNOVATION

Charlene Rooke

Seeking an authentic wine experience in the South Okanagan, a curious oeno-tourist might just bypass the soaring sculptures and luxe premises of other wineries and follow a dusty back road along the Black Sage Bench to what appears to be a modest-looking barn.

This winery is plenty authentic—and anything but rustic. For one thing, it’s perched on some of the finest terroir in the Okanagan Valley. The namesake structure of Red Barn at Jagged Rock is, on closer inspection, a modern landmark by architect Tom Kundig. The redmetal-clad barn fronts a pergola-topped, Italian-inspired patio, where misting fans keep wine tasters comfortable as they take in eclectic wines along with rolling views of the Black Sage Bench.

On the inside, the winery floor is as spare as a gallery. It’s lined with winemaker toys that look like works of art, some of them behind glass. There are concrete fermentation eggs in hues from natural grey to crimson, and fermentation tanks in gleaming purple stainless steel. There’s a steel Egginox storage and fermentation tank that looks like, well, an egg; a concrete Dolia fermenter that resembles a tooth; and a small-batch glass Wineglobe from France that looks like a giant lab beaker. Each of them contributes to making low-intervention, organic wines that allow each grape variety to speak for itself.

What you won’t see is barrels. “This far south [in the Okanagan Valley], you expect big wines,” says guest experience manager and wine educator Valerio Mariani. Red Barn builds each of its food-friendly wines with

“

The concrete vessels promote a little micro-oxygenation without the flavour of oak … for a little more freshness in the wines.

“tension,” he says, bright acidity meeting fruit-forward flavours achieved with very little use of even neutral oak.

FRESH AND THOUGHTFUL

A sip of Red Barn’s Discordian White, a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc blend (“Nobody else does that blend … so we do,” Mariani jokes) confirms that “no oak” is my wine love language. The wine gets its silky-round texture from patient lees-stirring. Like the Gamay-based Transfiction Rosé 2023 that has been a barnburner of a hit this summer, it bursts with the brightness of an Oliver summer day.

“Organic goes well with the style of winemaking we use here,” winemaker Kaylee Barss says. (Both vineyard and winery are certified organic.) B.C.-born Barss, who studied plant biology at Western University and winemaking at Brock University before returning home to B.C., says she learned to use modern tools to create innovative, organic wines from her mentor, Aussie winemaker Phil McGahan. Barss is now also assistant winemaker at CheckMate Artisanal Winery, the fellow Iconic Wines of British Columbia portfolio brand that McGahan originally put on the map by making exquisite, award-winning Chardonnay and Merlot wines.

Barss explains that the different types of concrete vessels, in particular, promote “a little micro-oxygenation without the flavour of oak … for a little more freshness in the wines.” Low-intervention, additive-free winemaking is right in line with how people seem to be drinking today, she says: choosing better quality and more thoughtfully made wines, which are often lower in alcohol and offered by wineries that prioritize transparency around farming and winemaking practices.

ABOVE: Winemaker Kaylee Barss creates vibrant organic wines in these concrete egg fermenters. LEFT: The surprising Red Barn can be found amid the sun-soaked terroir of the Black Sage Bench. Photos courtesy of Red Barn Winery

Red Barn’s unusual vineyard is a patchwork of plantings: everything from a thriving wedge of Viognier vines to rows of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Lagrein. It’s a dream for a creative young winemaker ripe for experimentation. A recent trip to the Northern Italian region of Alto Aldige whetted Barss’s interest in expressive white blends with texture, sophistication and a light oak touch. “It’s interesting to think about the age-ability of white wines and how complex they can be.”

ITALIAN INSPIRED

It’s no coincidence that the winery, with its selection of Italian-inspired wines, serves Italian-inspired street food eats (crafted by Liquidity chef Josh Mueller). Think: crispy squares of Roman-style pizza or succulent mortadella sandwiches. “It’s like a little Italian quarter on Jagged Rock, which I love,” says Barss.

More tried-and-true Okanagan favourite wines, like the berry-rich Cabernet Franc and round, citrusy Pinot Bianco, are also part of the Stand Apart series, available only to Wine League members. The wine club is a rapidly filling roster of in-the-know oenophiles craving a taste of

“

It’s interesting to think about the age-ability of white wines and how complex they can be.

grape varieties rarely grown in B.C., carefully made into unique vintages.

Other bottlings, like an annual artist-label series, also reflect the limited-edition, small-batch philosophy that makes each wine from Red Barn at Jagged Rock potentially collectable, covetable and cellar-worthy.

“You never know what’s going to hit when you make a brand-new [wine],” says Barss. “And we’re doing that all the time. Every year I’m experimenting with different fruit from different blocks.” Like the standout red barn that marks the winery’s spot, her philosophy is where innovation meets tradition, perhaps to share a toast and a snack: cin cin!

FOUR TO TRY

ABOVE: Simple but striking design by architect Tom Kundig. BELOW: Red Barn's vineyards find inspiration in Italy. Photos courtesy of Red Barn Winery

Stand Apart Sangiovese 2022

(Black Sage Bench, $55) Juicy pizza wine with a touch of savoury earthiness.

Stand Apart Barbera 2022 (Black Sage Bench, $75) Soft and lush blackberry, plus petrichor minerality.

Silent Partner Cabernet Franc 2021 (Black Sage Bench, $52) Unexpected apricot nose from a dash of Semillion. Tasting room exclusive.

Stand Apart Pino Bianco (Black Sage Bench, $40) Round and soft, with gentle citrus and pear. Wine League exclusive.

Phantom Creek’s vineyard revival

A PAUSE IN PRODUCTION OFFERS TIME TO RE-EVALUATE PRACTICES

Times may be tough in the B.C. wine industry, but Phantom Creek Estates director of farming Mike Anderson has discovered there may be a silver lining after all. In fact, he’s positively delighted. “The extent to which our vineyards have recovered has been quite significant from our initial outlook to where we’re at now,” he says.

At the beginning of the growing season, some blocks and even whole vineyards looked as if they might have to be entirely replanted. “Even in June we were anticipating 60 to 70 per cent mortality,” he says. “Yet the vines pushed through from above the graft and seem to have recovered quite well with some blocks at 80 to 90 per cent survival.”

Even though next year’s still won’t be a full crop, Anderson adds, “We’re pretty hopeful that we’re going to move forward, producing our terroir-driven wines again.”

Like many others in the valley, when the extent of this past year’s devastation from the extreme January freeze became apparent, the winery considered its options, including bringing in fruit from elsewhere. However, Phantom Creek chose instead to opt out of the 2024 vintage.

Anderson points out that the winery has built its significant reputation on the B.C. brand and owning its own vineyards. “We have a lot of single vineyard designated wine. Plus, quality control in our vineyards is pretty important to us,” he says. “So we made the call to stay with making only B.C. wines.”

The breathtaking Black Sage Road winery is also in the fortuitous position of having sufficient inventory on hand to see them through this challenging period. Yet he also fully understands that for some the need to import fruit is truly a matter of survival.

The Okanagan-born viticulturist (who initially trained as a winemaker) says that while the last couple of years have been challenging, work in the vineyard is always a learning process. The decision to put this year’s harvest on pause while undertaking partial replanting affords opportunities to rethink earlier decisions made at a different time, in an era before climate change took hold.

For example, new plantings at the Similkameen Everden vineyard will focus more on Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, which are more cold-tolerant varieties. “It

also allows us to re-evaluate some of our planting practices, to make the vines have the best chance of success, that they’re deeply rooted with grafting a little closer to the soil for better protection in colder winters.”

The break also offers time to look at farming practices and continue the development of Phantom Creek’s organic and biodynamic program, with guidance from consultant Olivier Humbrecht. “Healthier vines and well-nourished soil lead to stronger vine vitality. A healthy vine is much better equipped to withstand extreme temperatures, whether it's the cold of winter or the heat of summer,” Anderson says.

As for lessons learned from the last couple of years, Anderson says after three decades of mainly benign winters, “Maybe we’ve become a little complacent.” Extreme conditions can occur. After all, he reminds us: “We are still growing grapes in Canada.”

For more information, visit phantomcreekestates.com

Director of farming Mike Anderson is delighted by what he's seeing in the Phantom Creek vineyards.

Photo courtesy of Phantom Creek Estates Phantom Creek Estates

California Dreaming

FALL FOR THE GOLDEN STATE’S NEW WAVE OF FRESH, VIBRANT AND SUNSHINE-DRIVEN WINES

Kate Dingwall

The Napa Valley's hilly terrain can produce a variety of exciting wine styles that go far beyond the traditional big, bold and oaky.

Photo courtesy of California Tourism Board

What do you imagine when California comes to mind? Hollywood, Disneyland and the Golden Gate Bridge; surfers, street tacos and Erewhon smoothies?

“Sunshine, beaches and the bold flavours of Cabernet Sauvignon and buttery Chardonnay,” says Mike Cooke, wine director of Wildlight Kitchen + Bar in Vancouver.

California’s big-and-bold wines have become the state’s signature. Extravagant, oak-aged Chardonnay. Juicy Pinot Noir, jammy Zinfandel and opulent Cabernets that can creep up to 16% ABV.

“The moment I mention California wine, guests paint a picture in their heads,” says Mike Wong, the wine director of Chambar. “Say Chardonnay and they immediately think bold and oaky. If someone asks me for a big red wine, I say, ‘What about a Napa Cab?’ and guests enthusiastically agree.”

But look closer, and that picture looks a bit different than you might expect. Today’s California wines go far beyond those rich, bold Cabs and Chards.

“What excites me most is how this new generation of winemakers are redefining what California wine can be,” says Ajay Sehgal, food and beverage outlets manager and sommelier at Revery Toronto. “They’re challenging the norms, not just for the sake of being different, but because they genuinely believe in a more thoughtful and expressive approach to winemaking.”

BREAKING WITH STEREOTYPES

California wine was born in the 1700s, when Franciscan missionaries planted grapes to make communion wines. During the gold rush, more vines were planted to fuel thirsty prospectors. From there, the industry boomed until Prohibition, which lasted in the U.S. from 1920 to 1933.

By 1960, only 271 wineries remained in the state.

Things changed in 1976, when several producers squared up their bottles against the prestigious wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux at the famous wine tasting that became known as the Judgment of Paris. California won and California’s wine reputation exploded.

Today, there are almost 5,000 wineries within the state’s borders.

The benchmark bottles—such as Opus One or Ridge’s Zinfandel—exude power and structure. “What excites me most about California wine is that feeling of

an ‘iron fist in a velvet glove,’” says Cooke. “These wines have a powerful presence, but there’s also an elegance to them—a balance of strength and finesse that's incredibly captivating.”

But critics will say California has flown too close to the sun. To keep up with demand, many producers adopted mass-scale farming and production practices. Chardonnay and Cabernet became defined by sameness: big fruit, high sugar and oak.

Now, a new contingent of California makers are steering their style away from the stereotypes.

“

Sunshine, beaches and the bold flavours of Cabernet Sauvignon and buttery Chardonnay.

San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge is one of California's quintessential landmarks. Kate Dingwall photo

Good food and fine wine are part of the California lifestyle. Photo courtesy of California Tourism Board

“

They grow grapes based on what climate, soil and history offer instead of what marketing dictates.

The specific approach depends on the maker. Some, like Madson Wines and RAEN Winery, are approaching winemaking with a lighter touch. “These wines have a more Burgundian influence, focusing on elegance and purity—incredible Pinot Noirs and mineral-driven Chardonnays,” says Cooke. “It’s exciting for the industry.”

For others, redefining California’s future is about reconsidering grape choice. Mission, first planted by Spanish missionaries but forgotten for years as Cabernet became king, is increasingly appearing, as are Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc and even Rhône and Italian varieties.

WILDFIRES AND ALT-VARIETIES

Napa’s Jill and Steve Matthiasson make a beautiful (and fully biodynamic) Cabernet and Chardonnay, but they’re also playing around with alt-varieties: Italian white grape Ribolla Gialla and red Montepulciano grown in Carneros.

Other producers are prioritizing listening to the land. “Jolie-Laide, Stolpman Vineyard, Vermillion, Trouchard, J. Lohr, Erggelete Brothers and Matthiasson,” says Robert Stelmachuk, wine director and sommelier at Mott 32 Vancouver. “They grow grapes based on what climate, soil and history offer instead of what marketing dictates.”

Other producers are just interpreting classic grapes through a fresher lens. “Les Lunes Cosmic Blend—Cabernet, Zinfandel, Merlot—isn’t your dad’s mega-purple bruiser,” says Laura Milnes, owner of Crushable Club, a

Toronto wine studio. “It’s got crunch and brightness and commands you to take yourself less seriously.”

“I’m a big fan of Martha Stoumen,” says Wong. “She is the pioneer of California natural winemaking and champion of female winemakers. [Her wines are] made from typical California grapes, but they are ethereal— they make you think.”

Lexi Wolkowski, the sommelier and general manager of Parquet, a new-school French restaurant in Toronto, is a fan of Madson and Stagiaire Wine, Santa Cruz producers that work with classic varieties. “Both prize a low-intervention approach, which really underlines their cool, coastal mountain terroir,” she says. “Oh, and Arnot-Roberts and Matthiasson—the wines themselves are personal and expressive, even if they don’t fit a classic California prototype.”

Unfortunately, some producers are changing out of necessity. Wildfires, heat waves, floods and other natural disasters have pushed winemakers to reckon with their viticultural practices and reconsider what grapes work in their terrain.

In Santa Cruz, Bonny Doon Vineyard founder Randall Grahm has a 415-acre vineyard planted with thousands of grape varieties, ranging from the conventional—different clones of Pinot Noir—to the uncanny: grapes like Picolit and Ruchè. His plan is to breed new varieties that are perfectly suited to the shifting California climate.

In Carneros, Jill and Steve Matthiasson are experimenting with Italian varieties in their biodynamic vineyards. Kate Dingwall photo

“

There’s a lot that Canadian winemakers can learn from what’s happening in California right now.

“I really appreciate the tenacity of California producers,” says Wong. “They’ve been brutalized by climate change, forest fires, rising costs across the board—you name it. They’ve resilient in adapting and rolling with the punches.”

As Canada’s wine regions continue to mature, California’s renaissance is offering inspiration.

“There’s a lot that Canadian winemakers can learn from what’s happening in California right now,” says Sehgal.

“Canadian winemakers have a lot of the same challenges that Californian producers face, especially when it comes to our warming planet,” says Wolkowski. “It’s heartbreaking to hear what winemakers in British Columbia are experiencing right now—every region is vulnerable to the pendular weather that each vintage can bring. We have to be able to embrace change and value adaptability. We can look to California for leadership.”

A CHANGING PALATE

In the Napa Valley, producers have been investing more in white varieties—they’re picked earlier than reds, which lessens the risk of fire damage.

And white wines are selling well. “As dining trends shift towards lighter and more internationally varied cuisines, there's a growing appetite for fresher, more acces-

sible wines that offer both quality and value,” says Jasper Victor, general manager and sommelier at Frenchy Bar et Brasserie. “We’re moving away from the heavier, cellar-aged selections that once dominated the market, especially as wine cellars become less common in modern homes.”

Sehgal finds guests these days are savvier and willing to explore the world of wine. “People are more informed and adventurous in their drinking habits, as a wider variety of wines from across the globe become available,” he says. “They’re seeking something that challenges their perceptions and expectations.” New-school California fits the bill.

But for these wines to thrive, drinkers need to get over their conceptions of California. A lot of these new wines are haunted by ghosts of California past—remember the juicy, jammy Zins of the ’90s? “I find guests tend to assume all the Cali white is badly oaked,” says Wolkowski. “And most guests think Californian wine fits the New World tenet: more fruit, more alcohol, more oak.”

She adds: “These days, every time I sell Zinfandel, I see these attitudes change. All it takes is one wine to blow someone’s perceptions out of the water. I think the new wave of California is all about shifting these long-standing expectations.”

With California bearing so much of the brunt of climate change, its vineyards offer a unique opportunity to learn best practices for an uncertain future. Kate Dingwall photo

Bonny Doon Vineyard is experimenting with new varieties that will thrive in the state's shifting climate. Kate Dingwall photo

The state of Washington wine

WE’LL BE TASTING A LOT MORE OF IT SOON, SO LET’S GET TO KNOW THE REGION

Rhys

Pender, MW

Red Mountain

is among Washington state's premium AVAs.

Photo by Andrea Johnson courtesy

of Washington Wine Institute.

Washington state, even though it’s our immediate neighbour to the south, is not on the wine radar for most British Columbians. It might seem strange that we don’t imbibe in more of the delicious wines from our nearest non-Canadian wine region, but the thick international line that divides us makes Washington feel a world apart.

That is about to change.

There will be an influx of Washington State wine coming to B.C. in 2024, but as grapes or juice rather than finished wine. In order to save jobs and keep B.C. wineries afloat after two devastating winters that robbed up to 90 per cent of the grape crop, the Government of B.C. has allowed a one-vintage free pass that allows wineries to supplement production with out-of-province grapes without having to pay the markup duties or change their type of licence to do so.

Most wineries who need supply are going to the closest source, so the time is relevant to learn about Washington wine and see what we can expect from B.C. wineries’ interpretation of the state’s 2024 grapes.

SIMILAR, BUT DIFFERENT

In terms of climate, Washington is much like B.C.’s. Most of the wine is grown in the rain shadow of the Cascade Range that divides the wetter coast from the dry, sunny and arid interior. Only the small Puget Sound AVA lies west of the Cascade mountains, but it comprises less than one per cent of Washington’s 61,000 acres of vineyard land. Overall, the climate is similar with low rainfall, lots of sunlight and incredible temperature shifts from day to night and summer to winter, all of which encourage ripe fruit flavour and balancing crisp acidity

The big difference between Washington and B.C. wine country is space. Most of the Washington AVAs (American Viticultural Areas, U.S. regions or sub-regions similar to our Geographical Indications) have many fewer trees and much less exposure to lakes. Vineyards are

“

Most of the wine is grown in the rain shadow of the Cascade Range that divides the wetter coast from the dry, sunny and arid interior.

spaced widely apart, often surrounded by fields of wheat or the famous sweet Walla Walla onions.

Washington has 20 different AVAs that have evolved over the years, the most recent in 2021 (Goose Gap, White Bluffs and The Burn of Columbia Valley). The big catchall AVA is Columbia Valley, which captures 99 per cent of the grapes grown in the state. The rest are smaller chunks nestled within.

Many Washington AVAs are based on soils defined by the Missoula floods, their version of the Okanagan’s Glacial Lake Penticton and the ice dam that failed spectacularly at the end of the last ice age, about 10,000 years ago. Its dramatic outpouring of water and dirt shaped the terroir of the southern Okanagan Valley.

On the other side of the border, there was Glacial Lake Missoula (which is actually in Montana). Approximately 15,000 to 13,000 years ago, a weakening ice dam sent unimaginable floods through the Columbia Valley. As in the South Okanagan, this created specific soil types that went a long way to define wine regions thousands of years later. In addition, much of the bedrock in Washington is basalt from volcanic activity throughout the Columbia Basin; terroir geeks get excited about the layers of volcanic ash in some hillside regions.

The Wahluke Slope AVA has one of the driest, warmest climates in Washington, and is best known for its bold Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Photo by Andrea Johnson courtesy of Washington Wine Institute.

“

The vineyards are so different in Washington, with the spaces so vast and then, all of a sudden, vineyards planted close to rivers where there is water.

Being a little farther south, Washington in general is a touch warmer, but the range of grape varieties that can be successful on the varying soils, aspects, latitudes and elevations is similarly diverse as what we see in B.C.

So why don’t we see more Washington wine here in Canada? It is largely down to tax, and Canada’s notoriously high markups on wine. Only 17 Washington wines are listed on the BC Liquor Stores’ website, and it is no surprise why when a quick price search shows a wine available in Seattle for US$12.97 goes for CAD $37.99 plus tax in B.C. As many British Columbian frequently travel to Washington, they know the price there and struggle with the markup.

Bringing wine home from Washington isn’t a viable option either. Above the personal limit of a couple of bottles, you will still be dinged the markup at the border, but this time on the retail price, making it even more ex-

pensive. You will end up paying over 100 per cent of the purchase price in taxes and duties for most wines. (Conversely, taking wine from B.C. to Washington, the duty is a matter of cents per bottle.)

A BAILOUT FOR BOTH SIDES

It is a different situation for the grapes and juice that are coming across the border this harvest season. After all, bringing in Washington grapes is not just a bailout for B.C. from friendly neighbours. It is timely for Washington growers, too.

Chateau Ste. Michelle is one of the largest wine companies in the U.S. and typically crushes more than half of all Washington grapes. Last year, the winery announced that it was cutting production by 40 per cent, due to overall slowing sales and repositioning to the

Canoe Ridge Vineyard, located in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, is among Washington's best-recognized wineries. Photo by Andrea Johnson courtesy of Washington Wine Institute.

growing premium wine segment. That is as devastating to grape growers as a cold snap from Mother Nature.

And while Washington was hit by the same freeze that devastated B.C. in January, it wasn’t hit as hard, so there are a lot of excess grapes that need to find a home.

The 2024 one-time deal, then, is a Band-Aid for the wine industry on both sides of the border.

Severine Pinte, winemaker for Le Vieux Pin and La Stella Winery, needs fruit while the wineries’ South Okanagan vineyards are rebuilding. She started her search at Washington’s Red Mountain AVA, based on its quality reputation. Red Mountain is a small AVA, known for producing ripe, structured grapes from its warm, dry, southwest-facing slopes. She also has grapes coming from the similarly warm Wahluke Slope AVA and the larger Horse Heaven Hills AVA.

“The vineyards are so different in Washington, with the spaces so vast and then, all of a sudden, vineyards planted close to rivers where there is water,” Pinte says. “Very different from in British Columbia where our vineyards are tucked in amongst the mountains, lakes and trees.”

Mike Clark of Clos du Soleil has also been across the border to source grapes for white and rosé wines, selecting vineyard sites in the Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills AVAs after multiple visits and wine tastings.

“While we are all about Similkameen terroir, we are really excited by the opportunity for this one-off vintage,” he says. “We want to make wines in the same style that Clos du Soleil customers are used to, but that also reflect some of the highest quality grapes available in Washington state.”

It is well worth a visit to Washington wine regions to see how the climate, terroir and the grapes British Columbians know so well evolve as you head south. Be prepared for lots of driving and open space. And if you are buying 2024 replacement vintage wines from B.C. wineries, ask where the grapes are from and take the opportunity to learn about the place, too.

THREE TO TRY

Compiled by Vitis Staff

Wines of Substance Chardonnay 2019 (Washington State, $34.70)

apple, pear, floral, delicate minerality.

Maryhill Winery in Goldendale is among the most-visited destination wineries in Washington state. Andrea Johnson photo courtesy of Washington State Wine as published in Washington Wine and Food: A Cookbook by Julien Perry (Figure 1 Publishing)

Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Red Blend 2020 (Columbia Valley, Washington, $37.99) Black raspberry, dark plum, cedar, leather. Powerful.

Double Canyon Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Washington State, $77.30) Blackberry, coffee, earth; dark and silky with a long finish.

Citrus,

In a (quick) pickle

TRY THESE FLAVOURFUL GARNISHES FOR YOUR CHEESE AND CHARCUTERIE BOARDS

Joanne Sasvari

When you dine on something rich and fatty like, say, Oyama’s Belgian truffle pâté or the ridiculously creamy cheese known as Délice de Bourgogne, you need something tart to balance it and refresh your palate. Yes, wine plays that role to some extent, but what you really crave is something pickled.

Consider the classic way to serve pâté in France: a slab of meaty terrine partnered with crusty bread, grainy mustard and a pot of the tiny, mouth-puckeringly sour pickled cucumbers known as cornichons.

As any chef will tell you, acid cuts fat. What that really means is that while fat tends to block and dull your taste receptors, acid dissolves fat so you can continue to taste whatever you are eating. Acid also tends to intensify other flavours, which is why a squeeze of lemon makes everything taste brighter. And when you marry acid with sugar, the sweet and sour flavours interact to create something interesting and altogether more complex.

Which brings us to pickles. Although we think of them as sour, they typically combine acidity, salt,

Almost any vegetable can be quick-pickled—and it makes a great addition to a charcuterie board. iStock.Getty Images Plus/VeselovaElena photo

sweetness and spice, which can make them deliciously, mouth-wateringly complex.

Pickling is a means of preserving food. There are two basic ways to pickle things: by fermenting them in brine (think: kimchi, sauerkraut or Eastern European-style “sun pickles”); or by immersing them in a hot vinegar solution (your basic Bick’s). Both take time and a fair amount of work, and vinegar pickles also involve processing jars in a hot-water bath, but you will end up with plenty of delicious pickles to tuck into your pantry.

There is a third process, though, which doesn’t exactly preserve food, but does extend its shelf life and gives it an appealing flavour and texture: quick pickling.

Foods that are quick pickled must be refrigerated and consumed within a month, so they aren’t designed to hang around for long. They’re also sometimes called refrigerator pickles, and some say they’ll last for two months, but personally I wouldn’t risk it. They are typically made in small batches and take hardly any time at

“

Pickles typically combine acidity, salt, sweetness and spice, which can make them deliciously, mouth-wateringly complex.

all to make (hence the name), so you can always whip up more as needed.

Toss a quick pickle together in the morning and you can have it on your charcuterie board by aperitivo hour.

Almost any vegetable, and even some fruits, can be quick pickled — carrots, radishes, cucumbers, onions, fennel, cauliflower, beans, cherries, peaches, plums, berries — so this is a great way to make the most of whatever is fresh at the farmers’ market. Plus you can add herbs and spices to create your own unique flavour combos.

Quick pickling transforms fruit and veg into something that’s both soft and crunchy, sweet and sour, perfect as a sandwich topping, grain bowl garnish, charcuterie accompaniment or on its own, straight from the jar.

RED ONION QUICK PICKLE

This pickle is so easy, you don’t even have to heat the brine, and you get a delicious topping for burgers, sandwiches, tacos or grain bowls, as well as a tasty garnish for your cheese and meat boards.

Makes about ½ cup of pickles from a 500 mL jar

INGREDIENTS

1 Tbsp granulated sugar

1 Tbsp kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal)

½ cup apple cider vinegar (you can also use white wine vinegar, red wine vinegar, sherry vinegar or rice vinegar)

1 cup water

1 tsp black peppercorns, lightly crushed

Optional: ¼ tsp crushed red pepper flakes

1 red onion, thinly sliced

METHOD

Prepare a 500 mL mason jar with a tight-fitting lid.

Whisk sugar, salt, vinegar and water together in a small bowl until sugar and salt dissolve.

Place black pepper and red pepper flakes (if using) in the prepared jar, then add the sliced red

onion. Pour the vinegar mixture over it and seal the jar. Let sit at room temperature for an hour before using. Drain the pickle before serving it.

Keep refrigerated; if there’s any pickle left after one month, discard.

iStock/Getty Images Plus/Olga Peshkova photo

AN EASY QUICK PICKLE FOR ANY VEGETABLE

This process works with just about any veg, but it works better if the pieces are smaller so the brine can penetrate more easily.

Makes 2 (500 mL) jars

INGREDIENTS

1 lb fresh vegetables, such as cucumbers, carrots, green beans, zucchini, fennel, cherry tomatoes and cauliflower or broccoli florets.

1 cup vinegar (white, apple cider or rice)

1 cup water

1 Tbsp kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal) or 2 tsp pickling salt

1 Tbsp granulated sugar (or honey or maple syrup)

Optional add ins:

2 sprigs fresh herbs, such as thyme, dill, mint or rosemary

1 to 2 tsp whole spices, such as black peppercorns, cloves or mustard seeds

1 tsp dried herbs or ground spices

2 cloves garlic, smashed or sliced

METHOD

Prepare the jars: Wash and dry two 500-mL canning jars along with their lids and rings.

Prepare the vegetables: Wash and dry the vegetables, peel them if needed, trim the ends and cut into coins, spears, thin slices, matchsticks, bite-sized chunks or whatever shape you prefer.

Add any flavourings: If using them, divide fresh herbs, whole or ground spices, dried herbs and/or garlic between the jars.

Add the vegetables: Pack the vegetables snugly into the jars, making sure to leave a ½ inch of space from the rim of the jar to the tops of the vegetables.

Make the brine: Place vinegar, water, salt and sugar in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring, and cook until salt and sugar dissolve. Pour the brine over the vegetables, filling each jar to within ½ inch of the top. You might not use all the brine.

Gently tap the jars against the counter a few times to remove any air bubbles. Add more brine if necessary. Place the lids on the jars and screw the rings on until tight.

Let the jars cool to room temperature, then store in the fridge. The pickles will be more delicious if you can wait 24 to 48 hours before eating them, but you don’t have to. Be sure to discard anything that’s left after a month.

VARIATIONS

Here are five great flavour combos to try:

• Thinly sliced cucumber + mint + a pinch of red pepper flakes

• Cauliflower florets + curry spice blend

• Carrot coins + coriander + ginger + turmeric + thyme

• Green beans + garlic + fresh dill + black peppercorns

• Halved cherry tomatoes + garlic + black peppercorns

iStock/Getty Images Plus/Olga Peshkova photo

Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands

From the Saanich Peninsula to the Comox Valley to the Gulf Islands that dot the Salish Sea, this region features pockets of microclimates ideal for growing grapes, especially cooler climate varieties such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The wineries are mostly smaller, family-owned properties located in beautiful landscapes and surrounded by bountiful farms.

COURTENAY/ COMOX

40 Knots Estate

Winery

Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Pinot Auxerrois, White

Pinot Noir, Gamay, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, white blends, rosé, orange, fruit wine

40knotswinery.com

Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery

Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Petite Milo, white and red blends, rosé, vermouth beaufortwines.ca

Coastal Black Estate Winery

Fruit wines, honey wines coastalblack.ca

COWICHAN VALLEY

Alderlea Vineyards

Bacchus, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, sparkling wine alderlea.com

Averill Creek Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer,

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Foch, white and red blends, rosé, vermouth, fortified wine averillcreek.ca

Blue Grouse Estate

Winery

Siegerrebe, Ortega, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, red blends, rosé, fortified wine bluegrouse.ca

Cherry Point Estate

Wines

Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, red blends, rosé, fruit wine, dessert wine, fortified wine cherrypointestatewines.com

Cobble Hill Winery

Pinot Gris, Muscat, Castel ,Merlot, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, fortified wine cobblehillwinery.ca

Divino Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Trebbiano, Pinot Noir, Castel, white and red blends divinowine.ca

Emandare Vineyard and Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, Syrah, red blends, rosé, emandarevineyard.com

Enrico Winery

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Petite Milo, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Libre, Corivese, sparkling wine, rosé, fortified wine enricowinery.com

Rocky Creek Winery

Cabernet Foch, sparkling wine, white and red blends, fruit wine rockycreekwinery.ca

Unsworth Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignette, Petit Milo, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine unsworthvineyards.com

Venturi-Schulze

Vineyards

Kerner, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, sparkling wine, rosé, orange wine, dessert wine venturischulze.com

Zanatta Winery

Ortega, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, rosé, white and red blends zanatta.ca

NANAIMO

Millstone Estate Winery

Ortega, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, fruit wine millstonewinery.ca

SAANICH PENINSULA

Church & State Wines (Saanich) Chardonnay, Marsanne, Rousanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine churchandstatewines.com

An autumnal view from Averill Creek. Photo courtesy of Averill Creek Vineyard

Deep Cove Winery

Ortega, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, red and white blends, sparkling wine deepcovewinery.ca

Invinity Sparkling Wine House Sparkling wine invinity.ca

Neighbourly Wine Co.

Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, rosé neighbourlywines.com

The Roost Farm Centre & Highland House Farm Winery

Siegerrebe, red blends, rosé, fruit wines roostfarmcentre.com

GULF ISLANDS

Corlan Vineyard & Farm

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, rosé, fruit wines corlanvineyard.ca

Hornby Heart Vineyard

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, red blends, piquette, rosé, orange wine, fruit wine hornbyheartvineyard.com

Hornby Island Estate Winery Fruit wines hornbywine.com

Fraser Valley

Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards

Chardonnay, Ortega, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine seastarvineyards.ca

SouthEnd Farm Winery

Siegerrebe, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, piquette southend.ca

Garry Oaks Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine garryoakswinery.com

Kutatás Wines

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé kutataswines.com

Salt Spring Vineyards & Winery

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fruit wines saltspringvineyard.ca

Sage Hayward Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white blend, rosé sagehaywardvineyards.com

It comes as something of a surprise to many people to learn that there are about two dozen wineries right on the doorstep of B.C.’s biggest city—including one right in Vancouver itself. Wineries in Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster, Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford produce wine from everything from rice to berries to vitis vinifera. Most are small, family-owned properties and several offer additional attractions such as farm tours or bistros.

ABBOTSFORD

Cannon Estate Winery White and red blends, rosé cannonwinery.ca

Maan Farms Estate Winery Fruit wine, dessert wine maanfarms.com

Mt. Lehman Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine mtlehmanwinery.ca

Ripples Winery

Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, fruit wines, fortified wines rippleswinery.com

Seaside Pearl Farmgate Winery

Petite Milo, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, red blends, sparkling wine seasidepearlwinery.ca

Singletree Winery

Pinot Gris, Grüner

Veltliner, Siegerrebe, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, sparkling wine singletreewinery.com

CHILLIWACK

Whispering Horse Winery

Pinot Gris, L’Acadie Blanc, Epicure, sparkling wine whisperinghorsewinery.com

LANGLEY/ ALDERGROVE

Backyard Vineyards

Bacchus, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine, fortified wine backyardvineyards.ca

Chaberton Estate Winery

Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Bacchus, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Madeleine Sylvaner, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine chabertonwinery.com

Glass House Estate Winery

Grüner Veltliner, Bacchus, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Madeleine Angevine, Sauvignon Blanc, Millefiori, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé glasshouseestatewinery. com

Krause Berry Farms & Estate Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines krauseberryfarms.com

The Fort Wine Co. Fruit wines thefortwineco.com

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Langley) Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Cabernet

Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine township7.com

Vigneti Marchetto

Pinot Noir, white and red blends vignetimarchetto.com

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery

Siegerrebe, Schönburger, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, fortified walnut wine, piquette vistadoro.com

NEW WESTMINSTER

Pacific Breeze Winery

Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot,

red blends, rosé, orange wine, dessert wine pacificbreezewinery.com

NORTH VANCOUVER

Garden of Granite Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Petite Sirahm Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends gardenofgranitewinery.com

RICHMOND

Isabella Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, fruit wines, dessert wines, icewine isabellawinery.com

Lulu Island Winery

Viognier, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Syrah, blends, fruit

Okanagan

wine, icewine luluislandwinery.com

Richmond

Country Vines

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schönburger, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine countryfarms.ca/ country-vines-winery

SURREY

1st R.O.W. Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé, dessert wine, fruit wine 1row.ca

Cityside Winery

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, white blends citysidewinery.com

Vinoscenti Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, dessert wine vinoscentivineyards.ca

VANCOUVER

Vancouver Urban Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine vancouverurbanwinery.com

When most people think B.C. wine, they think of the Okanagan Valley, which produces 84 per cent of the province’s wine. This is one of the most varied wine regions in the world, stretching from cool-climate Lake Country in the north to the blistering-hot desert around Osoyoos in the south. Everything from ice wine to big, tannic, fruit-driven reds is produced at wineries that range from small family-run boutique vineyards to big global players, many of them featuring fine restaurants, guesthouses and cultural experiences.

GOLDEN MILE BENCH

CheckMate Artisanal

Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot checkmatewinery.com

Culmina Family Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Grüner

Veltliner, Riesling, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, red blends, rosé culmina.ca

Fairview Cellars

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé fairviewcellars.ca

Gehringer Brothers

Estate Winery

Auxerrois, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine gehringerwines.ca

Hester Creek Estate

Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet

Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine hestercreek.com

Road 13 Vineyards

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, red blends, sparkling wine road13vineyards.com

Rust Wine Co. Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé rustwine.com

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tinhorn.com

KALEDEN

Anthony Buchanan

Wines

Muscat, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette anthonybuchananwines.ca

Birch Block Vineyard

Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette birchblockvineyard.com

Black Market Wine Co.

Bacchus, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette blackmarketwine.ca

Farm Gate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Malbec, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine, fruit wine farmgatewinery.com

Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine lakeboatwinery.com

Skaha Vineyard at Kraze Legz Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine, icewine krazelegz.com

KELOWNA

Ancient Hill Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Lemberger, Pinot Noir, Baco Noir, rosé ancienthillwinery.com

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, cedarcreek.bc.ca

Martin's Lane Winery

Riesling, Pinot Noir, icewine martinslanewinery.com

Meadow Vista Honey Wines

Fruit wines, honey wines meadowvista.ca

SpearHead Winery

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, dessert wine spearheadwinery.com

Sperling Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white blends, orange, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine sperlingvineyards.com

St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery

Riesling, Chasselas, Gewürztraminer, Schönburger, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé st-hubertus.bc.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Mirabel Vineyards

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine mirabelvineyards.com

Nagging Doubt Winery

Chardonnay, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends naggingdoubt.com

Priest Creek Family Estate

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé priestcreekwinery.com

Sandhill Wines

Sovereign Opal, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Barbera, Malbec, Petit Verdot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine sandhillwines.ca

Scorched Earth Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, rosé scorchedearthwinery.ca

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine summerhill.bc.ca

Tantalus Vineyards

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, dessert wine, icewine tantalus.ca

The Vibrant Vine

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Merlot, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine thevibrantvine.com

The View Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, sparkling wine theviewwinery.com

LAKE COUNTRY

50th Parallel Estate

Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris,

Urban sips at Sandhill Wines in downtown Kelowna. Photo courtesy of Sandhill Wines.

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine 50thparallel.com

Arrowleaf Cellars

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Petite Arvine, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine arrowleafcellars.com

Blind Tiger Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine blindtigervineyards.ca

Ex Nihilo Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, red blends, sparkling wine, icewine exnihilovineyards.com

Gray Monk Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Auxerrois, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Siegerrebe, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine graymonk.com

Intrigue Wines

Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine intriguewines.ca

O’Rourke Family Estate

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir ofestate.com

Peak Cellars

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine peakcellars.com

NARAMATA BENCH

1 Mill Road Vineyard

Pinot Noir, rosé 1millroad.ca

Bella Wines

Sparkling wine bellawines.ca

Bench 1775 Winery

Roussanne, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine bench1775.com

Black Widow Winery

Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schönburger, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine blackwidowwinery.com

Chain Reaction

Winery

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine chainrectionwine.com

Coolshanagh Wines

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir coolshanagh.ca

D’Angelo Estate

Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine

dangelowinery.com

Da Silva Vineyards & Winery

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine dasilvavineyards.com

Daydreamer Wines

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, red blends, rosé daydreamerwines.ca

Deep Roots Winery

Chardonnay, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine deeprootswinery.com

Elephant Island

Winery

Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fruit wines elephantislandwine.com

Four Shadows

Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine fourshadowsvineyard.com

Fox and Archer Wines

Sémillion, Pinot Noir, Malbec, rosé, sparkling wine foxandarcherwines.com

Hillside Winery & Bistro

Pinot Gris, Muscat Ottonel, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, fortified wine, icewine hillsidewinery.ca

Howling Bluff Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine howlingbluff.ca

JoieFarm

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine joiefarm.com

Kettle Valley Winery

Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, red blends, dessert wine kettlevalleywinery.com

La Frenz Winery

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Sémillon, Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, white and red blends, sparkling wine, fortified wines lafrenzwinery.com

Lake Breeze Vineyards

Rousanne, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, Syrah, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine lakebreeze.ca

Lang Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Merlot, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, port-style wine, dessert wine, icewine langvineyards.ca

Laughing Stock Vineyards

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé laughingstock.ca

Lock & Worth Winery

Sémillon, Merlot, rosé lockandworth.com

Marichel Vineyard and Winery

Viognier, Syrah, red blends, rosé marichel.ca

MOCOJO Wines

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Malbec, Merlot, rosé mocojowines.com

Monster Vineyards

Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, sparkling wine monstervineyards.ca

Moraine Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine morainewinery.com

Nichol Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine nicholvineyard.com

Origin Wines

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé originwines.ca

Poplar Grove Winery

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine poplargrove.ca

Red Rooster Winery

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine poplargrove.ca

Roche Wines

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Schönberger, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé rterroir.ca

Ruby Blues Winery

Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris,

Gewürztraminer, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine rubyblueswinery.ca

Serendipity Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, red blends, sparkling wine serendipitywinery.com

Terravista Vineyards

Albariño, Roussanne, Viognier, Syrah, white blends terravistavineyards.com

Therapy Vineyards & Guest House

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine therapyvineyards.com

Three Sisters Winery

Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, orange, sparkling wine 3sisterswinery.com

Tightrope Winery

Muscat, Riesling, Sémillon, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tightropewinery.ca

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Naramata)

Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine township7.com

Upper Bench Estate

Winery

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé upperbench.ca

Van Westen Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends vanwestenvineyards.com

Wesbert Winery

Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Pinotage, Gamay, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, dessert wine wesbertwinery.com

OKANAGAN FALLS

BC Wine Studio Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé bcwinestudio.ca

Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine bluemountainwinery.com

Bonamici Cellars

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine bonamicicellars.com

Echo Bay Vineyard

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, red blends echobayvineyard.ca

Liquidity Wines

Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling, Merlot, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine liquiditywines.com

Mayhem Wines

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine mayhemwines.com

Meyer Family Vineyards

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine mfvwines.com

Nighthawk Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine nighthawkvineyards.com

Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine nobleridge.com

Rigour & Whimsy

Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, white and red blends, orange, sparkling wine rigourandwhimsy.ca

See Ya Later Ranch

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine sylranch.com

Stag's Hollow Winery & Vineyard

Albariño, Pinot Gris, Vidal, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Syrah, Teroldego, Merlot, red blends, rosé, dessert wine, icewine stagshollowwinery.com

Synchromesh Wines

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé synchromeshwines.ca

Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine wildgoosewinery.com

OLIVER

Bartier Bros. Winery

Muscat, Sémillon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, rosé, red blends, sparkling wine, piquette bartierbros.com

Black Hills Estate

Winery

Viognier, Roussanne, Chardonnay, Syrah, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine blackhillswinery.com

Burrowing Owl Estate

Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, red blends, rosé, fortified wine burrowingowlwine.ca

Cassini Cellars

Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, dessert wine cassini.ca

Castoro de Oro Estate

Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé castorodeoro.com

Church & State Wines (Okanagan)

Muscat, Chardonnay, Marsanne, Rousanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine churchandstatewines.com

District Wine Village

Featuring: Apricus Cellars, Canter Cellars, Foolish Wine, Gneiss Wines, JoiRyde Winery, Nk’Mip Cellars, One Faith

Vineyards, Silhouette

Estate Winery, TIME Family of Wines, Valley Commons, Winemaker’s CUT districtwinevillage.com

Domaine Artema Gamay domaineartema.ca

French Door Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé frenchdoorwinery.com

Gold Hill Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé goldhillwinery.com

Here’s the Thing Vineyards

Chardonnay, Viognier, Rousanne, Orange Muscat, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé heresthethingvineyards.com

Hidden Chapel Winery

Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white and red blends hiddenchapelwinery.com

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Fumé Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine, icewine inniskillin.com

Intersection Estate Winery

Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends xwine.ca

Jackson-Triggs

Okanagan Estate

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine jacksontriggswinery.com

Kismet Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine kismetestatewinery.com

La Casa Bianca Winery

Riesling, red blends, fruit wines, dessert wines lacasabianca.ca

Le Vieux Pin Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, white and red blends,rosé levieuxpin.ca

Maverick Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine maverickwine.ca

Nostalgia Wines

Pinot Gris, Kerner, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Petit Verdot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, port-style wine nostalgiawines.ca

Phantom Creek Estate

Winery

Riesling, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, red blends, rosé phantomcreekestates.com

Pipe’ Dreams

Vineyard and Estate Winery

Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, Merlot, Gamay, Zweigelt, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine pipedreamswinery.com

Platinum Bench Estate Winery

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé platinumbench.com

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carménère, Malbec, Zinfandel, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé quintaferreira.com

Rainmaker Winery

Rousanne, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, red blends, sparkling wine rainmakerwines.com

Ramification Cellars

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, fortified wine ramwine.com

Red Barn Winery at Jagged Rock

Sémillion, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, red blends, rosé redbarn.wine

River Stone Estate

Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine riverstoneestatewinery.ca

Silver Sage Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, red blends, sparkling wine silversagewinery.com

Squeezed Wines

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Syrah, red blends, rosé squeezedwines.ca

Stoneboat Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine stoneboatvineyards.com

vinAmité Cellars

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Petit Verdot, white and red blends vinamitecellars.com

OSOYOOS

Adega On 45th Estate

Winery Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine adegaon45.com

Blue Sky Estate

Winery

Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé blueskywinery.ca

Bordertown Vineyards

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner

Veltliner, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine bordertownwinery.com

Lakeside Cellars

Orange Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine lakesidecellars.com

Lariana Cellars

Viognier, Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends larianacellars.com

Nk'Mip Cellars

Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, icewine nkmipcellars.com

Osoyoos Larose Estate

Winery

Bordeaux blend osoyooslarose.com

Over The Fence

Winery

Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Syrah, Caberbet Sauvignon, white blends, red blends, rosé overthefencewinery.ca

PEACHLAND

Fitzpatrick Family

Vineyards

LaStella Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé lastella.ca

Liber Farm & Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé liberfarm.com

Moon Curser Vineyards

Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Syrah, Dolcetto, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine mooncurser.com

Mythology Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white blends, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine mythologyvineyard.ca

Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamay, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine fitzwine.com

Hainle Vineyards

Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine hainle.com

PENTICTON

Little Engine Wines

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine littleenginewines.com

Play Estate Winery

Sémillon, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine playwinery.com

Sabering bubbles at TIME Family of Wines in downtown Penticton. Photo courtesy TIME Family of Wines

TIME Family of Wines

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, Grenache, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, port-style wine timewinery.com

SKAHA BENCH

Blasted Church Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Nebbiolo, Refosco, white and red blends, sparkling wine blastedchurch.com

Crescent Hill Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Malbec, Zweigelt, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine crescenthillwinery.com

Painted Rock Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, red blends, rosé paintedrock.ca

Pentâge Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blacn, Viognier, Gamay, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine, icewine pentage.com

SUMMERLAND

8th Generation

Vineyard

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Merlot, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine

8thgeneration.com

Back Door Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinotage, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine backdoorwinery.com

Dirty Laundry

Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Viognier, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Malbec, Dolcetto, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, port-style wine dirtylaundry.ca

Garnet Valley Ranch

Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine okanagancrushpad.com/ garnet-valley-ranch-winery

Giant Head Estate

Winery

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine giantheadwinery.com

Haywire Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine haywirewinery.com

Heaven's Gate Estate

Winery

Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Gamay Noir, Marechal Foch, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine heavensgatewinery.ca

Lightning Rock

Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine lightningrockwinery.ca

Lunessence Winery & Vineyard

Viognier, Chardonnay, Gamay, Merlot, red blends, rosé lunessencewinery.com

Sage Hills Organic Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine, fortified wine sagehillswine.com

Silkscarf Winery

Muscat, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine silkscarf-winery.com

Sleeping Giant Fruit Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines sleepinggiantfruitwinery. com

Solvero Wines

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé solverowines.ca

SummerGate Winery

Muscat Ottonel, Kerner, Riesling, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine summergate.ca

Summerland Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine summerlandestatewinery. com

Thornhaven Estates Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine thornhaven.com

WEST KELOWNA

Beaumont Family

Estate Organic Winery

Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine beaumontwinery.com

Black Swift Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé blackswiftvineyards.com

Ciao Bella Estate

Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine ciaobellawinery.com

Crown & Thieves

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine crownthieves.com

Frind Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine frindwinery.com

Grizzli Winery

Muscat, Siegerrebe, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, red blends, dessert wine, icewine, fruit wine grizzliwinery.com

Kalala Organic Estate

Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine kalalawines.ca

Little Straw Vineyards

Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine littlestraw.bc.ca

Mission Hill Family

Estate Winery

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon,

white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine missionhillwinery.com

Mt. Boucherie Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sémillon, Chenin Blanc, Syrah, Carménère, Sangiovese, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufränkisch, white and red blends, orange, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine mtboucherie.com

Similkameen

Niche Wine Company

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine nichewinecompany.com

Off The Grid Organic Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, Zweigelt, white blends, rosé, dessert wine offthegridorganicwinery.com

Quails' Gate Winery

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine, icewine quailsgate.com

Rollingdale Winery

Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine,

fortified wine rollingdale.ca

Tender Hope Winery

Riesling, Rousanne, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tenderhopewinery.com

The Hatch Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine thehatchwines.com

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine volcanichillswinery.com

Known both as Canada’s organic capital and its best-kept-secret wine country, the sun-soaked Similkameen produces everything from fruit-driven reds to bright, flinty whites. Surrounded by rugged mountains that trap the heat and funnel mildew-banishing winds through the vineyards, the valley features a variety of soils including stone, gravel and silty loam from glacial rock formations. Although there are relatively few tasting rooms here, there are many vineyards that grow grapes for wineries in other regions.

CAWSTON

Bottega Wine Studios

Viognier, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé bottegawinestudio.ca

Crowsnest Vineyards

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white blends, rosé, dessert wines crowsnestvineyards.com

Eau Vivre Winery & Vineyards

Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, white and red blends eauvivrewinery.ca

Forbidden Fruit Winery

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé, fruit wines forbiddenfruitwine.com

Hugging Tree Winery

Viognier, Merlot, red blends, rosé huggingtreewinery.com

Little Farm Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, red blends, orange, rosé littlefarmwinery.ca

Orofino Vineyards

Muscat, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine orofinovineyards.com

Rustic Roots Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines rusticrootswinery.com

Scout Vineyard

Riesling, Syrah, rosé scoutvineyard.com

Seven Stones Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, red blends, rosé sevenstones.ca

The barrel cellar at Mission Hill Family Estate in West Kelowna. Photo courtesy Winegrowers of British Columbia

S’milka Vista Viognier, Syrah, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé smilkavista.com

Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé vanessavineyard.com

KEREMEOS

Clos Du Soleil Winery Viognier, Pinot Gris, Fumé Blanc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé closdusoleil.ca

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,

Other regions

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine

corceletteswine.ca

Robin Ridge Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Gamay, white and red blends, rosé,

sparkling wine robinridgewinery.com

Some of B.C.’s most exciting wines are being produced in regions that are so new, few people have heard of them. And, with our changing climate and improved technology, who knows where vintners will be planting grapes next?

THOMPSON VALLEY

Monte Creek Winery

Chardonnay, Frontenac

Gris, Riesling, La Crescent, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, fruit wine montecreekranch.com

Privato Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot

Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine privato.ca

Sagewood Winery

Pinot Gris, Kerner, Riesling, Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Siegerrebe, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine sagewoodwinery.ca

LILLOOET

Cliff and Gorge Vineyards

Marechal Foch, Petite Milo, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, white blends, rosé cliffandgorge.com

Fort Berens Estate Winery

Riesling, Pinot Gris,

Chardonnay, Grüner

Veltliner, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé,sparkling wine, dessert wine fortberens.ca

SHUSWAP

Baccata Ridge Winery

Marechal Foch, red blends, fruit wines, honey wines baccataridgewinery.ca

Celista Estate Winery

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines, fortified wines celistawine.com

Edge Of The Earth Vineyards

Ortega, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine edgeearth.ca

Larch Hills Winery

Ortega, Sémillon, Siegerrebe, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Malbec, Merlot, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemberger, red and white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine larchhillswinery.com

Marionette Winery

Riesling, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white blends, rosé, dessert wine marionettewinery.com

Recline Ridge Vineyards & Winery

Ortega, Bacchus, Siegerrebe, Kerner, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines reclineridgewinery.com

Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery

Siegerrebe, Ortega, Kerner, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé sunnybraewinery.com

Waterside Vineyard & Winery

Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines watersidewinery.com

KOOTENAYS

Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, white blends, orange, rosé bailliegrohman.com

Red Bird Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette redbirdwine.com

Skimmerhorn Winery & Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Ortega, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé skimmerhorn.ca

Valley of the Springs Winery

Rivaner, Gewürztraminer, Marechal Foch, Gamay, Zweigelt, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé valleyofthespringswinery. com

Wynnwood Cellars

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot,Pinot Noir, rosé wynnwoodcellars.com

PRINCE GEORGE

Northern Lights

Estate Winery Ltd.

Fruit wines northernlightswinery.ca

In general. the darker the wine, the more pronounced the tannins.

WTannin

THE BITTER TRUTH ABOUT THIS ELUSIVE FLAVOUR

Christine Campbell

“

Tannins shape a wine’s structure, aging potential and overall sensory character in profound and often underappreciated ways.

The expression of tannins varies widely depending on the grape variety, winemaking technique and aging process. Grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Tannat are known for their robust, mouth-coating tannins. Skin contact during fermentation is a critical factor in tannin extraction. It is also evident in the creation of orange wines, where extended contact with grape skins infuses white wines with tannins, enhancing structure and complexity.

hen you hear someone talk about tannins in wine, they are talking about astringent sensory components that contribute to a wine’s structure and complexity. On the palate, they create a dry, puckering sensation on the palate, often perceived as a bitter taste.

Tannins are chemical compounds that belong to a larger group called polyphenols; they occur naturally in a large number of plants, including tea, cacao and grapes, as well as the wooden barrels used in the winemaking process.

Tannins have greater importance in red winemaking due to their contribution to red wine’s colour. While white wines are typically made by extracting grape juice at the start of the winemaking process and then disposing of the leftover materials, in red winemaking, the juice spends an extended period in contact with the tannin-rich grape skins, seeds and stems, drawing colour, flavour and texture from them.

Tannins shape a wine’s structure, aging potential and overall sensory character in profound and often underappreciated ways. One fascinating aspect of tannins is their ability to bind with proteins, producing a dry, grippy sensation in the mouth. This interaction cleanses the palate, making tannic wines ideal companions to rich, fatty foods. The classic pairing of tannic Cabernet Sauvignon with a succulent steak perfectly demonstrates this.

Winemakers can adjust tannin levels through maceration duration, fermentation temperature and oak aging. Barrel aging introduces additional tannins from the wood, further enhancing the wine’s structure and depth. As wines age, tannins transform, becoming softer and more integrated, turning a once abrasive young wine into a silky, harmonious experience.

The next time you enjoy a glass of wine, consider the influence of tannins. These compounds are the unsung heroes responsible for crafting a wine’s texture, balance and aging potential, shaping every memorable sip you take.

THREE TO TRY

Garzon Reserva Tannat 2018 (Uruguay, $26)

Plum, blackberry, raspberry. Full-bodied, mature, integrated tannins.

Township 7 Vineyards and Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Okanagan Valley, $34)

Cassis, dark cherry, cedar. Rich fruit, velvety tannins, textured profile.

Cecchi Storia di Famiglia Chianti Classico 2019 (Chianti, Italy, $22)

Cherry, chocolate, violet undertones. Ripe, round tannins.