CUISINE 16
Friday June 6 - 12, 2014
www.vallartatribune.com
Food of the Mayan World By Ramiro Lopez
And so the food was found and entered into the flesh of the created man...from this food was made the blood of men. Thus corn entered by grace of the progenitors. - Popol Vul
I
n addition to their contributions to science, the Mayas; the men of the corn and magnificent creation of the gods, made great agricultural advances. They were excellent producers of corn, cacao, mango, watermelon, tobacco, beans, avocado, tomato, peppers and chaya (1), among many other products.
Tabasco is colossal paradise Tabasco emerges bleary-eyed, after crossing the long rainy area of the Grijalva river. This Mexican state is, considered the “Gate of the Mayan world”, it is located in the southeastern part of Mexico, a zone rich in protected areas, with invaluable natural diversity perfect for such eco-tourism adventures as cave diving, river sports, climbing, camping, hiking, observation of the many exotic specimens of flora and fauna, as well as exploration of the ancient archaeological sites of the Olmec and Zoque-Mayan civilizations. Villahermosa (beautiful village), known as the "Emerald of the East", is the lovely capital of Tabasco state, located in the central region. In this cosmopolitan city you can visit the park-museum “La Venta”, and see some of the colossal Olmec heads, stunning archaeological pieces that were discovered in the northwestern part of the state.
Gift of the gods and legacy for generations The fertile soil of Tabasco, the humidity with rains year round, warm weather of temperatures from 24 ° C to 29 ° C, along with the creative spirit of these people, descendants of the Mayans, are all reflected in Tabasco´s food.
It is literally a paradise, where vegetables and fruits of incredible quality are produced. The protagonists of the Tabasco kitchens are the herbs and seeds that abound in the area, such as “achiote”, a paste used by the Maya for flavouring and coloring their food, along with chaya, parsley, epazote , cilantro, chipilin (2), amashito chili, and banana leaf. These are the ingredients that provide the local dishes with their unique smell, color and flavor. Many fruits are grown in this land, particularly the Tabasco banana, which was introduced in the 1900s and adapted extremely well here. It is prepared roasted, and prepared with marshmallows, corn flakes, and even bread. In Tabasco there are also many cacao plantations, where the revered seed, native to this land, is processed to produce chocolate; the drink of the gods that conquered palates world-wide, and today is the base of many desserts, drinks, and savory dishes. A visit to the cacao farms in the region will allow you to delve into the process of making cocoa paste, and learn of artisan methods that are still working in harmony with their environment.
Veins of water that feed the life Deep into the state, the village markets are flooded with flavors from their watery environment; crossed by rivers dotted with lakes, swamps, coasts and lush vegetation, Tabasco’s warm humid tropical weather creates the perfect conditions for the production of fish, seafood and reptiles, which have a notable impact on the local cuisine. Examples of this are the Tabasco style snook, tenhuayaca (3) crappie fish prepared in "chaya" leaf and the most requested of aquatic delights in Tabasco; the garpike, which is prepared in mole sauce or just
grilled, and then topped with lemon juice and a touch of slightly sweet chili amashito that is used in almost everything eaten in Tabasco. For seafood they have “Tapesco oysters”, cooked with a fire of dried palm leaves on a bed made with green trunks of palm, and seasoned with chipilin. Yet another of the seafood delights to be found there is the acamaya (4) which is prepared with garlic. Unfortunately, the indiscriminate consumption of these species has put them in danger of extinction, and their culinary use is at risk of becoming merely an historical anecdote. So too are other highlights of the exotic dishes of Tabasco, such as the "chirmole" of iguana, turtles hicotea and pochitoque (5); part of the traditional menu that is still consumed underground, in violation of government regulations of recent years. Other animals that have been endangered by indiscriminate hunting for their culinary appeal, are the armadillo, the lowland paca and deer.
“The Food of the Mayan World” In the state of Tabasco lives the Chontal ethnic group, which stems from the ancient Mayan culture. The Chontal indigenous cuisine is varied and extensive, thanks to their antique, pre-Hispanic recipes, and the abundance of vegetables, fruits, and animals existing in their communities, thus creating an extensive list of dishes that evoke in all the senses their earliest legacy. And it is now in our hands to preserve this heritage forever. If you have ever wanted to experience the cuisine of the Mayan world, and of Tabasco, Foods replete with flavors, unique smells, colorful and intense aromas are waiting for your discovery.
Photo Credit Joel Hansen, Mexi-Go!
Tabasco: More than a sauce
Glossary 1 Hoja santa; Known in Tabasco as Momo, is an aromatic herb with a heart-shaped, velvety leaf which grows in the tropic zones of México and Central America. The name hoja santa means "sacred leaf" in Spanish. 2 Chipilin; A Nahuatl word meaning Quilitl-tender edible vegetables. It is native to southern Mexico and Central America, and its leaves are used in most of the cuisine of Chiapas and Tabasco, from stews, soups, rice, and particularly the typical chipilin tamales. 3 Tenhuayaca; Type of crappie, which is the favorite amongst locals because of its rich flavor 4 Acamaya; The acamaya is a crustacean very similar to the blue shrimp, but slightly larger. As one of the main resources for income in the Chontalpa region, due to its high market demand, the acamaya has been the most over-fished species within the coastal communities, and is now in danger of extinction. 5 Pochitoque; Species of turtles native to the southeast of Mexico, both land and fresh water, are part of the local daily cooking and are extensively marketed, although they are an endangered species.
Tabasco cold avocado soup Formerly from the coastal state of Tabasco, where a chilled dish is always welcome, this soup is a perfect first course for a light summer meal, such as grilled chicken or fish. Ingredients: • 2 tablespoons butter • ½ medium onion, chopped fine • 2 serrano chiles, chopped fine • 4 cups cold green vegetable broth • 4 avocados, pureed with a bit of the vegetable broth • ½ cup Mexican crema or heavy cream • chopped cilantro for garnish In a medium saucepan, melt the butter, add the onion and chile, and sauté over low heat until the onion is soft and translucent. Remove pan from heat. Add the vegetable broth, avocado and cream, stirring to blend well after each addition. Chill, covered, for 1 hour. Serve cold with a garnish of chopped cilantro and tortilla chips. Serves 4. Ramiro Lopez Wirrarika warrior. Chef by profession, writer by vocation and conviction. Originally from Nayarit, began his culinary career in Mexico City, and consolidated it in USA, there winning several prestigious cooking awards. His passion in the discovery of native flavors brought him back to Mexico, where he focused on exploring the secrets of local cuisines and also launched Food Revolution, a national nutrition, coupled with an understanding of the importance of organic and local products and long-term sustainability of natural resources.