Review
THE FEAST IN THE EAST
Something special is afoot in Warsawâs concrete eastern wilds⊠COORDINATES Weâre well-used to dismissing far-flung restaurants as being in no-manâs land, but in this case The Eatery is so far off-center it practically falls off the radar. Is that a bad thing? Nah, of course it isnât. We all know that the center tanked during The Great Bat Flu, and the opening of The Eatery is another affirmation of how Warsawâs food map has expanded outwards as a consequence of that. So where is it exactly? To be honest, weâve really no idea â somewhere in the grey zone that could pass as GrochĂłw, GocĆaw or the enigma that is GocĆawek. Set on a ground unit of a residential new build, youâre under a five-minute walk from Atrium Promenada.
VISUALS Though capable of holding not that many more than twenty-five diners, space is not an issue: floor-to-ceiling windows and a mirrored wall grant an illusory sense of room, whilst the neutral color palette generates a chameleon effect â in sunshine, The Eatery feels bright and vibrant, and in darkness, intimate and atmospheric. To this, add a dose of terrazzo surfaces, orblike lights and a smattering of plants and you have yourself a restaurant that feels comfortable to dwell in whatever the hour. Oh, and the playlist is the very definition of after-work chill â find your mood automatically enhanced by all these good vibes.
PEOPLE Iâm unsure if they want the self-publicity, so I shanât reveal the owners, but needless to say this young couple have a strong history in hospitality and design â this shows, and emphatically so. Then, wearing the hat in the kitchen, youâve got BartĆomiej Trojanowski, a huge talent whose background includes A-list choices such as Kieliszki na PrĂłĆŒnej. FURTHER READING Presented on a sexy little clipboard, the menu does tout some international choices; for the most part, though, youâre looking at modern Polish: this isnât fine dining, but it is classic recipes reimagined with modern flair. Drinks-wise, thereâs
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