Museum Special
Where Cars Die… page 18-29
Warsaw
Unexpected Art Finds page 14
Moving? page 16
May 05 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723
(225)
2015
(VAT 8% included)
BALMAIN BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CASADEI HERVE LEGER CHRISTIANISABEL LOUBOUTIN MARANT GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER HERVE GAMME LEGER ROUGE RALPH LAUREN ISABEL MARANT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO JIMMY CHOO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA KENZO TOD’S TORY BURCH RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTAVALENTINO RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON
Moliera 2 Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com
tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com
MAY 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber
insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com
possibly my favorite of the lot. It starts with a national holiday before ending with another big outpouring of joy: my birthday. Then, sandwiched in between, you have the 12th installation of Noc Muzeów, an event that succeeds in getting over 200,000 people off their bums and into galleries, museums and other public (and not so public) institutions. It’s a magic night, one that’s not so much a celebration of culture as it is a celebration of Warsaw. Watching the city stand as one (quite literally, the queues are monstrous) you can sense the pride people have in their town. So it’s no surprise, therefore, that for the second year running we’ve gone out into the field to bring you a bumper museum special. Beyond the corridors of culture, we’ve explored Burakowska, discovered Warsaw’s smallest exhibition space and done a bit of trespassing in Grodzisk Mazowiecki. Hope you enjoy it!
INFRONT
Opener 7 News 8 Take a Street 10 Day Trip 12
FEATURES
Public Art 16 Communist Museum 18 Rising Museum 20 DSH Exhibition 22 National Museum 24
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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2015
Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl
LISTINGS
Restaurants 43 Cafes & Wine Bars 72 Nightlife 76 Shopping 83 Family 87 Health & Beauty 92 In the City 96
REVIEWS
Między Nami 30 Wabu 31 Lokal Vegan Bistro 32 Varso Vie 32 Mała Polana Smaków 33
Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne 34
PARTNER NEWS
The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 43
INBACK
Classifieds 101 Map 102 Looking Back 104
Contributors: Antoni Bohdanowicz Piers Bright Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.
on the cover On our front page, retro buses gather outside Warsaw’s first skyscraper, the PASTa tower – just one of the buildings that opens to the public on the Night of Museums… (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)
PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT
A good month is May,
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON
BABY DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS
this month...
CONCERT
CONCERT
1 May, 19:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Australian pop sensation Cody Simpson hits Warsaw ahead of the June release of his fifth EP, Free. That’ll be his first album since leaving Atlantic Records for ‘creative differences’.
20 & 27 May, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract thousands.
Cody Simpson
Tickets from zł. 135 @ eventim.pl
EVENT
Chopin in the Park
For more information see: estrada.com.pl
Star Wars Day
CONCERT
2 May, 12:00 @ Fort Sokolnickiego, ul. Czarnieckiego 51 Join other Star Wars fans for a day of film and miscellaneous attractions that involve games, stalls, models, displays and fully grown blokes walking around with light sabers. Note that this family day is held on the 2nd, not the 4th.
28 May, 20:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This acoustic guitar-playing singer was recognized by Rolling Stone magazine as one of the faces of 2012. March saw the Belgian songstress release her new album, Reason.
Entrance is free
Tickets from zł. 95 @ eventim.pl
Selah Sue
RUN
Constitution Run 3 May, 11:00 @ Agrykola The 25th edition of this annual 5K run celebrates the 1791 Constitution of the Third of May. Expected to draw thousands, the route passes Łazienki, parliament and Ujazdowskie Castle.
One to Watch Idris Ackamoor & The Pyramids Renowned for their ‘Afro psychedelic’ style, The Pyramids have been described as ‘Afro-centric drumming meets ecstatic group improvisations.’ A must-see! 21 May, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16
For registration see: aktywnawarszawa. waw.pl
FESTIVAL
Jewish Motifs Film Festival
MEDIA PATRONAGE
8-10 May @ Kino Muranów, ul. Andersa 5 In its eleventh year, the Jewish Motifs Festival aims to ‘propagate awareness of centuries of Jewish tradition through the medium of film.’ Highlights this time round include Magic Men, a comedy/ drama that follows the story of a Holocaust survivor tracing the man who saved his life.
VIEWS – LANDSCAPE IN POLISH PHOTOGRAPHY
For details, see: jewishmotifs.org.pl
CONCERT
Def Leppard 19 May, 19:30 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A With over 100 million records sold worldwide these heavy metal legends require no introduction. Expect all the greatest hits to get an outing on a night that promises to be absolutely electric. Tickets from zł. 149 @ eventim.p
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Leica Gallery, ul. Mysia 3 (3rd Floor) May 6-May 12
The 14th edition of this photography festival uses landscape as its central theme and inspiration, plugging iconic images in the history of Polish photography and unique prints. Opening on May 6th, 8 p.m., as in previous years, the works presented at the pre-auction exhibition will be rare prints made using a variety of techniques. While some of the photographer focus on nature in an effort to represent its beauty, others direct their attention to their nearest surroundings – the cityscape. From May 28th until June 7th the exhibition will move to Łódź.
Ulica
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in
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What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town SELECTED HIGHLIGHTS
Królikarnia
Concert in the park, swings for adults & kids and a veg bazaar ul. Puławska 113A (6 p.m. till midnight)
Italian Embassy
A tour of the Italian Embassy! English-speaking guides at 7 & 8 p.m. Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6 (6-9 p.m.)
Filtry Waterworks
An exploration of Warsaw’s 19th century waterworks (photo ID required) ul. Koszykowa 81 (7 p.m.-1 a.m.)
Mayor’s Office
Walk the corridors of power and sit behind the mayor’s desk Pl. Bankowy 3/5 (7 p.m.-1 a.m.)
Ministry of Internal Affairs CULTURE
ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO
One Night Stand
Celebrating its twelfth year, the annual Night of Museums has grown from a piddling acorn into a strapping oak. From humble beginnings, when 11 museums attracted 16,000 guests, the event has developed into one of Warsaw’s favorite nights – last year saw over 200,000 visitors file through the 234 participating institutions. Those figures will be exceeded this time around, with city hall already confirming that over 237 galleries, museums, theaters and government buildings have signed up and will open through the night enabling members of the public to have a free snoop. Born in Berlin in 1997, the event has spawned imitations across the globe, with over 120 European cities now holding similar events. The Warsaw version will take place on May 16th, with special retro buses laid on to ferry sightseers around. Queues, especially for the bigger attractions, will be immense, though actually play an intrinsic part of the experience – the only other time you’ll see so many different people having fun on the streets of Warsaw is New Year’s Eve. Helping foster an almost carnival spirit will be an array of concerts, parties and one-off happenings to coincide with the exhibitions. (AW) For details, check the Polish-language official schedule (yet to be posted at press time) at: um.warszawa.pl/nocmuzeow
Anti-terrorist equipment and stuff related to the special services… (photo ID required) ul. Batory 5 (7 p.m. till midnight)
Palace of Culture
Tours of the secret passages under the Palace – hard hats supplied! Pl. Defilad 1 (7 p.m.-0.30 a.m.)
Parliament
That’s right, walk in and around the Polish parliament complex. ul. Wiejska 4/6/8 (7 p.m.-1 a.m.)
PASTa Tower
Meetings with war veterans and access to the top floor of Warsaw’s first skyscraper. ul. Zielna 39
www.warsawinsider.pl
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inFront
news REAL ESTATE
Horror Story
Months after the original developer sold the Zlota 44 project for an estimated loss of zł. 500 million, the sale of apartments finally resumed in April. Designed by Daniel Libeskind, the residential tower has repeatedly run into problems since ground was first broken in 2007. Regarded by many as an eyesore and a white elephant, Libeskind himself recently described the development as amongst his finest designs to date, before declaring it to be a piece of ‘affordable luxury’. But just how affordable is subject to discussion: prices start at zł. 28,000 sq/m, and top out at zł. 40,000.
SIGHTSEEING
Get Shorty
Weeks after ceasing operations in Dom Jabłońskich, the extraordinary Park Miniatur is set to reopen at Senatorska 38. May 1st has been sketched in as the launch date, and although the ‘park’ consists of less than a dozen 1:25 scale buildings, the attention to detail in this Lilliputian world is staggering. Featuring recreations of ‘lost buildings’ the ultimate goal of the project envisages its eventual expansion to a 3.5 hectare plot divided into thematic islands.
Polish Shorts
An 8-inch leather dildo dating from the 18th century was discovered in Gdańsk following an archaeological dig centered around a former school of swordsmanship. Marcin Tymiński of the Provincial Heritage Monuments Office hailed it an extraordinary find, before adding it was discovered down a toilet, most probably having been accidentally dropped by the person fiddling with it.
A Polish prince hit headlines after challenging the British politician Nigel Farage to a dawn duel in Hyde Park. Drawing a sabre in a video posted online, Janek Zyliński claimed he had had enough of Farage’s tirades against immigrants. The London-based aristocrat also suggested that, should Farage’s sword be a little rusty, then he would be equally open to a ‘duel of words’ ahead of the looming general election. WEATHER
Winter Warmer
In spite of brief flurries of white stuff in April, Poles have moved into spring being able to reflect on one of the mildest winters in recent memory. Freshly released stats show that snow ploughs were called out just 24 times compared to 89 times two years back. It’s thought the lack of snowfall saved the city a cool zł. 40 million originally earmarked for salting / sanding duty.
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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, ED WIGHT, SHUTTERSTOCK
A black cat who came within a whisker of being put down has become an international sensation after it was revealed he now mucks in as a nurse at the veterinary clinic that saved his life. Rademenes was saved from death by a vet at a Bydgoszcz surgery and, having made a full recovery, now spends the day snuggling and cuddling other sick animals.
inFront
take a street Arkadia
1. Po wą zko ws ka
Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. The realism is incredible. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game. ul. Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl La Fromagerie (3) Sourced from artisan producers, the selection of international cheeses is superb, and capped by an intelligent selection of gourmet specialties such as ham, chorizo and truffles from hard-tofind luxury brands. ul. Burakowska 5/7, lafromagerie.pl
2.
Miełżyński Wine Bar (4) Basking in the Miełżyński garden is one of Warsaw’s weekend pleasures, one assisted by the city’s best wine selection, a thoughtful menu and a buzz of easy luxury. As it gets colder, retreat into the warehouse/wine bar. ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl MW Art Dealers (2) Find graphic art, paintings, sculpture and photography inside a space dedicated to ‘young Polish art’. Promoting lesser-known, upcoming artists, MW’s handpicked pool of talent are a good choice for an affordable statement piece for the home or office. ul. Burakowska 15, mwad.pl
EXPLORING Burakowska
Reykjavik District (1) Trending Icelandic fashion designer Olly Lindal has come up with a casual line that shouts bad boy, rebel chic, while there’s an element of debonair dandy to the more formal attire. The jackets are a best seller. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com
Lined with former warehouses, factories, storage spaces and lock-ups, Burakowska is enjoying a new breath of life, one generously removed from its original working class roots. Sprinkled with boutiques, hangouts and engaging little stores, it’s become synonymous with niche enterprise and good living, while at the same time retaining an edge that’s raw and real… 4.
5. PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
3.
Warsztat Woni (5) Exceptional and eclectic flower arrangements inside a florist established under the auspices of Marta Gessler in 1999. Going ‘outside the norm’, the flower art is both simple yet highly personal. ul. Burakowska 5/7, warsztatwoni.com
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inFront
day trip
The Rust is History
Thirty kilometers from Warsaw lies a graveyard with a difference: a weird world of disintegrating cars… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT
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W
here do cars go when they die? Well, there is no heaven for machines, but there is Grodzisk Mazowiecki, a sleepy little town southwest of Warsaw. It’s here that scores of vehicles lie, their rusting carcasses left to decompose amid dense vegetation and tangled trees. There are no candles in this cemetery, no little lanterns or elaborate wreathes, though there is that strange, ethereal stillness that all graveyards have. As we pick our way around the skeletal remains the mood is tense and the atmosphere eerie, as if the corpses of these cars have a secret to reveal. It wasn’t meant to be like this. So the story goes, the cars belonged to Tadeusz Tabencki, a high-ranking civil servant who held office during the communist era. Using his contacts he accumulated some 300 cars and 200 motorbikes, storing them at two locations in Grodzisk Mazowiecki. The collection was his pride and joy, and numbered a Mercedes Silver Arrow rumored to have belonged to Herman Goring, a Porsche 911 previously driven by singer Maryla Rodowicz, and Roman Polanski’s white Plymouth.
inFront
day trip
what survives is a surreal assembly of twisted metal heaps devoured by nature
Tabencki died in 1989, and his remarkable horde was immediately decimated by local gangsters, scrap dealers and two-bob thieves. Easily accessed by a gaping hole in the fence, what survives is a surreal assembly of twisted metal heaps devoured by nature. Thoroughly plundered by scavengers, the cars present a ghostly spectacle. In the distance, as we stumble through the undergrowth, a pair of zombie-like drunks warm themselves over a brazier: it is as if we’ve entered some postapocalyptic Mad Max world. On returning to our waiting cab the driver senses our intrigue and insists we visit the second site. It’s smaller, but if anything much more compelling. Dominated by a derelict house that looks perfect for midnight scares, the waste ground outside is filled with mystery junk and odd bits of debris: a pile of Neptun 625 television sets, a clunky telephone left on the roof of a Buick Riviera and a jumpsuit splattered with what might possibly be blood. A dark residual energy hangs over this untamed plot, and we’re struck by a curious sensation that tingles the spine: it feels like we’ve disturbed some ancient tomb. Surely, we ask, cars don’t have souls? Safeguarding ourselves from any curse, we spot a plastic flower in the scrub and ceremoniously place it on the dashboard of a wreck: rust in peace...
GETTING THERE
Trains from Warszawa Śródmieście to Grodzisk Mazowiecki run approximately every 30-45 mins, with the journey taking about 40 minutes. The graveyards are well known to the local taxi drivers (find Graveyard No. 1 on ul. Orląt and the other on Krasińskiego). Ask for the ‘cmentarz samochodów’.
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PUBLIC ART
Heavenly Creatures
Artist Mirella von Chrupek tells the story behind her latest project: a tiny exhibition space found on a once gloomy corner off Plac Zbawiciela. What’s the idea behind your exhibition on Marszałkowska? The idea came to me when I was walking down the street one rainy Autumn day. It was a horrible day and I realized that it would soon be getting worse: rain, slush, snow, etc. I used to pass by this ‘display box’ on Marszałkowska 41. It once belonged to a cobbler who had his workshop in the yard and you’d see examples of his work in this ‘Gablotka’: that used to be quite a common thing for craftsmen to do. The
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shoemaker moved address and the box sat empty. Well to me it seemed like a good place for small exhibitions. I wanted to create a magical little world, something like a theater or an aquarium in which you could peer into and marvel at miniature worlds. Moreover, I wanted to create something that added a bit of color and cheer for people on their way home, and to demonstrate that something seemingly trivial could bring a smile to people’s faces.
How would you describe the current exhibition? It’s my second exhibition at that location. The first was devoted to wintertime: I created a winter landscape with sugar, lollipops, gummy bears and glitter. The second, the current one, represents spring. The principle heroine is Bulinka, a doll which I designed myself, printed on a 3D printer, made molds of and then created six versions (for more on the project see: bulinkadoll.wordpress.com/bulinka). Bulinka
lives in the grass amongst flowers and butterflies and has a friend, a small rat called Sabinka. This edition was in total contrast to the weather outside when I unveiled the project... Carry on… It was a really chilly evening and only four people turned up – I’m not surprised, given the choice I’d have stayed at home myself! Obviously deep down I felt a little bit sad about the attendance but at least I knew more people would see it on their way home from work. However, nothing prepared me for the reaction the next day. I was over the moon! So many people saw my Bulinka hidden in the grass – it was as if she embodied the spring everyone was waiting for.
How would you describe your work to people who haven’t seen it? I’ve been collecting toys and dolls for quite some time now and photograph their ‘mini-worlds’. My intention is to create an illusion of parallel exsistences so that the viewer gets the impression these little objects lead their own life – only on a different scale. Recently I started designing toys and dolls myself. Designing them in 3D is something I would like to focus on right now, and my notebook is full of sketches of new creatures – I hope too soon give life to many new critters!
Bulinka lives in the grass amongst flowers and butterflies and has a friend, a small rat called Sabinka
For more on Mirella’s work and her next Gablotka check: vonchrupek.com, bulinkadoll.wordpress.com/bulinka www.warsawinsider.pl
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COMMUNIST MUSEUM
In The Red T
For the definitive blast to the past, a visit to the Museum of Life Under Communism has become an essential part of any cultural itinerary… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT
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raditionalists shudder: with their clever marketing and CGI gimmicks, Warsaw’s top museums have the slick, polished feel of a big budget blockbuster. Then there’s the Museum of Life Under Communism, a bizarre little world found down a shabby Praga backstreet. Set in a disintegrating industrial space, it is the reverse of everything that has made sightseeing little more than a bland experience that values style over substance. Founded by Rafał Patla, the creation of the city’s best kept secret can be viewed as something of an accident. “Six years ago,” he says, “I was writing a thesis about how Warsaw would have developed had it not been for communism.” Doing so meant exploring the city, and in the process Rafał found himself falling in love with Warsaw’s secrets and surprises: “Because of that I started taking visitors on tours, but you know, I soon realized it wasn’t facts and history they wanted to hear – they could already understand that – what they wanted to learn about was everyday life.” With that in mind Rafał stocked his original HQ across the street with quirky bits and pieces from the PRL era – it became a place where people could browse through weird commie relics after a long day of sightseeing. “We had no heating and no running water,” he laughs, “but people loved it.” In fact, they loved it so much that 18 months ago Rafał and his wife took the decision to move to larger premises in order to “do it properly.” What arose was the Museum of Life Under Communism.
Forming the rump of the collection are items reclaimed from the family basement. “Poles don’t like chucking things away,” grins Rafał, “which in itself is a kickback from communism – people don’t throw things away because they’re always thinking they might need them again.” Among the discoveries were his uncle’s medals and propaganda magazines, not to mention articles from childhood such as creepy-looking dolls and Soviet electronic games. Supplementing the oddities are donations and finds, among them a Saturator soda machine believed to be the only one of its kind left in the country, and a phone box recovered from a field. Yet this is not some random assembly of junk. Split into sections that present a typical apartment, a shop, and government / anti-government press, the exhibits are accompanied by a coherent narrative that makes sense of the past. With period music crackling in the background, and Rafał handing out nips of vodka to visitors, guests find themselves gently sucked into a different epoch. For all this, the Museum of Life Under Communism is more than some novelty experience. In a rare moment of seriousness Rafał confesses his true inspiration. “On one side of the family we had my uncle,” he says, “a diehard communist, while the other side were the complete opposite – my granddad fought for the Home Army during the war.” When the two families first came together at a wedding reception the two men of each clan retreated to the smallest room with a bottle of vodka. “People thought they’d kill each other,” says Rafał, “and wagers were made over who’d walk out alive.”
Forming the rump of the collection are items reclaimed from the family basement
As it turned out, there was no reason for worry. “When they finally emerged,” says Rafał, “it was with a deep respect for each other’s views – from that moment on they were friends for life.” That story struck a chord with Rafał. “When I created this museum it was influenced by that: I didn’t want to lecture people about rights and wrongs, but what I wanted was to build a place for dialogue, a place where people of all backgrounds and opinion could discuss the past.” See for yourself at Mińska 25 (enter from ul. Głucha). www.warsawinsider.pl
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RISING MUSEUM
The Secrets of ’44
Lauded as one of the most important museums in the country, the Insider rummages through the collection of the Rising Museum to unearth its hidden gems…
“Forged using bullets, this pair of wedding rings were exchanged between Stanisław Swinarski and Cecylia Pakowska on October 3rd, 1944. They divorced in the 80s but apparently remained good friends. Now living in Canada, the rings were donated by Cecylia in 2004.”
H
istory books like to bandy words such as suffering and struggle, yet in terms of sheer savagery few events in modern history can rival the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, an epic 63 day rebellion against the occupying Nazis. The human cost was immense – over 250,000 civilians dead – yet the spiritual cost even higher: a grand capital city all but wiped off the map. The greatest tragedy, however, was yet to come – considered a bourgeois insurgency, post-war communist policy downgraded the battle to footnote status. Now though the real story is out and the balance being redressed: in part, that’s thanks to the continued efforts of institutions such as the Rising Museum. With the battle now receiving increasing exposure both at home and abroad, the Insider meets curator Anna Grzechnik to sift through the lesser-known curios in the museum’s cache…
“Known as Ciapciuś Klapouch, this cloth mascot was made using material from a German overcoat. Belonging to Eliza Czajkowska, it was given to her in Oberlangen POW camp where she was held after being captured.”
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“Before he left home to join his combat unit on Nowy Świat, Tadeusz Drabik’s mother sewed this ‘gorget’ underneath Drabik’s tunic, just under the heart. It stayed with him throughout the Uprising and then during his days in German captivity. He’s convinced it saved his life numerous times.”
“An armband worn by a medic during the insurgency. You don’t need good eyes to spot the blood stains that are still visible to this day.”
“This Omega watch stopped at the exact time a Nebelwefer shell hit an apartment block at Wiktorska 17 on September 25th, 1944. The blast left the owner, Irena Stańczykowska, and her daughter with serious injuries, with both dying later the same day.”
“Known as Field Ration D, this is one of the Hershey chocolate bars that was airdropped on Warsaw by the Allies. It was specifically designed to provide calories, energy and to sustain high temperatures. But while it wasn’t meant to be tasty, it proved so popular that by the end of the war Hershey were producing 24 million bars a week!”
www.warsawinsider.pl
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EXHIBITION
I
Warsaw as it was
Unveiled in mid-April, the latest exhibition from the cannon of Dom Spotkań z Historią views Warsaw through the eyes of the city’s earliest snappers…
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t’s Warsaw alright, just not as you know it. There’s Pl. Zamkowy, the familiar sight of Zygmunt’s Column rising in the distance, but instead of tourists wielding selfie sticks the square is awash with the tents of Russian soldiers, their rifles neatly propped up so they point towards the heavens. But this is not a vision of some nightmarish future, rather a glimpse to a time when Warsaw was a distant corner of the Tsarist Empire. Taken by Karol Beyer in 1861, this iconic image is one of many found in Skwer Twardowskiego directly opposite the DSH building. Pooling the works of Beyer, Konrad Brandel and Maksymilian Fajans, this outdoor exhibition – prepared inconjunction with the National Museum in Warsaw – presents some of the first photographs taken of Warsaw. Seen individually they’re a thrilling trip in time and include some of the first aerial pictures of the city, as well as one of the earliest panoramas of the Polish capital: shot by Brandel, the photographer used ten negatives and a vantage point from the Royal Castle tower to create his stunning perspective of the town down below. Collectively, the photos show a city that is at once alien yet strangely familiar. Viewers take time to pause, asking each other, “could that really be Pl. Trzech Krzyży?” The answer is yes, and accompanying QR codes allow you to go ‘back to the future’ and compare the depicted locations against their current form. Capturing an incredible time in the city’s development, these restored images offer a gripping exploration of a town caught between repression and an exciting future… First Photographers of Warsaw: Beyer, Brandel, Fajans Skwer Twardowski (by the crossroads of ul. Karowa and Krakowskie Przedmieście), dsh.waw.pl
Opposite page from top: St. Alexander’s Church on Pl. Tzech Krzyży, believed to have been taken around 1895 by Konrad Brandel; Konrad Brandel in a hot air balloon, 1865. This page, clockwise from top: taken in 1877 by Maksymilian Fajans the photo shows the original, wood-fashioned Praga Station that was subsequently destroyed during WWI. The pic was taken in the area that is now ul. Pożarowa; Karol Beyer as seen in 1861; Russian army troops stationed in front of the Royal Castle in 1861; Maksymilian Fajans seen in 1861.
Collectively, the photos show a city that is at once alien yet strangely familiar
www.warsawinsider.pl
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NATIONAL MUSEUM
After Hours
Founded in 1862, and housed in its current quarters since the 30s, the National Museum in Warsaw has survived the vicissitudes of time to become one of Warsaw’s best loved treasures. Stocked with over 830,000 works of art, this grand old lady opens its doors to the Insider for an exclusive behind the scenes look . PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
(pictured) Individually numbered sliding grids of art works in the painting warehouse.
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www.warsawinsider.pl
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NATIONAL MUSEUM
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The Painting Warehouse: the largest storage space at the National Museum in Warsaw spans an area of nearly 700 sq/m and holds over 9,500 paintings. The works are kept in conditions that ensure they are stored at the correct temperature and humidity and are hung on specially designed sliding grids on racks and shelves. They’re accessible to employees and, on special request, to art historians, curators, art students, members of the media and the relations of the artists.
www.warsawinsider.pl
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NATIONAL MUSEUM
Etching & Drawings Cabinet: the storeroom of Poland’s largest public collection of drawings and graphics. The oldest pieces in the collection date from the late Middle Ages while the latest are from the first half of the 20th century. The storage space additionally houses scrapbooks, albums, portfolios, caricatures, as well as graphics boards, woodcuts and stone lithography. (Opposite) Department of Canvas Painting Conservation: visible is a painting by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun being prepared for public display in the Gallery of 19th Century Art. This necessitates the removal of old varnish and a retouch of the facial image.
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www.warsawinsider.pl
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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 43 CAFES & WINE BARS 72 NIGHTLIFE 76 SHOPPING 83 FAMILY 87 HEALTH & BEAUTY 92 IN THE CITY 96
Boutique Browsing Opened to complement their cafe/bar and upmarket B&B, the Między Nami shop is an Aladdin’s Cave of items for the home and pantry – basically, a collection of anything the owners like! That includes seasonal produce from family-run farms, Kenyan fair trade baskets, body care products from Côté Bastide, luxury accessories by Maison Baluchon and a bestselling line of hats courtesy of the Japanese brand Mature Ha. Temptations are rife in this niche curiosity. Między Nami Shop
PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE ALEX WEBBER
ul. Bracka 20
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REVIEWS
Sushi Bomb
Wabu blow the competition out of the water…
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could talk for days about food, but go on, ask me about sushi – you might as well try talking to an owl. It’s not that I have anything against it, it’s just I’ve never understood people who prattle on about it as if it were some heaven’s gate spiritual experience. Take Sakana for instance. I rate their branch on Moliera as the best sushi in the city (at least I did), but you’re not going to find me there anything in excess of one night a year. Why? It’s not so good that I want to sit shoulder-toshoulder with reality TV rejects. I figured the same misgivings would apply to Wabu, and to an extent I am correct. On entering I find two tattooed galoots yakking about the DJ set they played at the weekend. Opposite them, sit a pack of Hollywood Wives that are all glinting diamonds and plastic tits. Save me, I weep. Biting my lip I take a seat at the pearl white bar and ready myself for the most hideous hour of my life. But it doesn’t happen. What ensues is one of the most pleasurable dining experiences that I’ve ever had in Warsaw. The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna
gunkan that flashes with freshness. Never have I been so thrilled to eat raw fish, and I find myself moving down the menu pointing at items and issuing single word orders that consist of: “next”. The chefs in front move at the speed of light to keep up with my manic ordering. For the first time in a sushi bar I’ve gone utterly bonkers. I’m ordering everything and anything and loving it all. Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers and demolished in seconds. And here’s a confession. The truth is I get so carried away that I’m not really sure what else I have: it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that when I finally spill outside I nearly jiggle with joy. It’s been fantastic. Yes it’s pricy (my bank card practically has smoke streaming from it), and most certainly it’s posey, but so too are all good sushi spots in Warsaw. The difference is, here’s one that’s worth it. (AW) Wabu
ul. Krucza 41/43, wabu.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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REVIEWS Food With Thought Lokal Bistro Proves A Local Maestro…
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fter months of being no more than a logo on some parchment in the window, Lokal Vegan Bistro have finally opened on Krucza across from the Mercure. Well I’m always up for some guilt-free eating to make my body feel like a temple rather than a truck stop, so why not. The interior looks a little like a New Age milk bar, the kind that’s left the design down to IKEA, but looking at the above-counter menu you soon realize there’s more to this place than meets the eye. The first time my dining partner was my daughter, who I have to say is an expert when it comes to tomato soup: she glowed at the sight of the wriggly green worms (homemade kluski with parsley) inside this well-tuned broth. As for me, I let out a bit of a snobby sneer when I saw schabowy on the list. “Surely,” I thought, “these clowns don’t think they can pull-off a meat free impersonation of the idolized pork chop?” Yes, they can – they knocked it out of the park. While I can’t say the food is ‘meat imitation’ it was a whole lot better than some of the chops I’ve had in my time. Returning another time I ordered the kebab. The seitan seasoning worked marvels and proved fast food doesn’t need to be junk food. While I didn’t try the desserts they too looked well worth further research which, considering the zł. 8 limitless coffee, already looks on the cards. After years of serving dull, timid dishes Warsaw’s alt. food culture, it appears, has finally found its taste buds. (KD) Lokal Vegan Bistro
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ul.Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122, facebook.com/lokalmargines
A Square Meal
Pl. Konstytucji joins the food revolution…
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ometimes a square, plaz or piazza can reveal the true soul of a city – even a country. Times Square, for instance, is all commercial razzle dazzle that shouts ‘buy, buy, sell, sell’. Red Square, on the other hand, contains core elements of a powerful history: church, Lenin and the Kremlin. And there’s Venice’s Piazza San Marco, where voices are louder than cars, and regular flooding acts as a foreshadowing of the city’s future. So what does Pl. Konstytucji say about the city? I’ll tell you what: restaurant revolution! While there are some places that seem to function only as eyesores (or mouth sores in some cases), credit has to go Varso Vie for respecting its neighbors and surroundings – in this case the Desa Gallery next door. This is done through displaying edgy Polish artwork, not to mention hosting a mix of upcoming musicians. Most of all though, Konstytucji is a workers’ square, and workers’ need to eat! This is recognized by moderate prices and outstanding food that holds taste and presentation in equal balance. While we sampled only starters what we saw gives plenty of cause for return: a trio of veal tongues with jelly and horseradish foam, along with delicate goose dumplings with marjoram sauce and cranberries: simple food but with interesting presentation and tastes that are true. And in a true hat tip to a place designed to be a workers’ paradise, the staff actually work! No longer a glorified parking lot, consider Konstytucji a timely refection of this city’s direction. (KD) Varso Vie
Pl. Konstytucji 2, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, tel. 22 622 2472, www.varso-vie.pl
Cooking Up A Storm
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX WEBBER, OPPOSITE KEVIN DEMARIA
Trumpets toot as chef Andrzej Polan makes a triumphant return!
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here do I begin with Mała Polana Smaków – the good bits? The brilliant bits? Or just the best bits? When faced with a place of such caliber it becomes tricky confining it all into the space of 350 words, so I’m just going to have to try my best. First, as you can gather, I’ve taken a bit of a shine to it. Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. But so too was Central Park, the previous tenant. The reason they’re still not occupying this address is down to the food: it promised much but never really delivered. What you had was basically a big, wet plop of disappointment. That’s not the case with the new incumbent, but then that is entirely predictable from a kitchen ruled by Andrzej Polan. In fact, such is my faith in him I decide to order herring for starters, a dish that – to me – has horrid connotations of Christmas with the GF’s family. Of course, here it’s perfect: shiny slithers of fish served with swirls
and blobs of mango and beetroot and clumps of spring onion. Already I’ve forgotten about the complimentary board of homemade bread that came before. Like all other courses, mains are limited in choice. On this day there’s seven picks and I pick out the salmon sausage on account of liking both but never having tried what the two are like when fused together. Excellent, as it turns out, and craftily matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. Dessert can do no wrong either, which means a cottage cheese mousse with chokeberry liquor – light and creamy with subtle hits of mint. Somewhat obsessed with seasonality, it’s unlikely any of these will be present on Polan’s menu by the time you visit… at least not in this form. But don’t stress, whatever is will be the real deal. That’s a guarantee. And with three courses not stretching that far north of zł. 100 there’s no reason for not returning: again and again and... (AW) Mała Polana Smaków
ul. Belwederska 13/44, polanasmakow.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA
REVIEWS
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A Contemporary Classic Hotel dining gets a refreshing makeover at the Sofitel’s Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne
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’m not really sure where I stand on hotel restaurants. I’ve been to some great ones in Britain, but they’re usually frilly boutique manor houses nestled by a lake. Warsaw’s hotels, on the other hand, remind me of those bloated, bulimic weekend brunches: of getting lashed on house fizz while food dies under heat lamps. One by one though the city’s luxury hotels have switched onto the fact that their dining rooms don’t have to be vapid spaces serving soulless food. Consider Sofitel a prime example. Designed by Didier Gomez, the revitalized restaurant area gets it right with low seating and warm colors: lots of glossy modernity but also intimacy aplenty. It’s far removed from the heartless corporate spaces that the five star mob once embraced. So they’ve nailed the interior, but what of the food? That’s left to Maciej Majewski, a French-trained chef whose menu mixes seasonal Polish produce with Gallic techniques. Operating from an open kitchen, Majewski and his boys aren’t kidding when they claim their menu concentrates on the creation of ‘fine, true, identifiable flavors’. Starters are awash with big tastes, including a sharp apple chutney that plays well
with the pâté en croûte. The spring niçoise, meanwhile, finds glistening pieces of tuna and egg tempura amid a mass of greenery. It’s a victory. The pace is kept with the mains: sea bass with scorched leek and a luxurious fish velouté, not to mention a suckling piglet fillet. It feels perfect paired with a splash of beefy jus, yet never overwhelming. Is there room for dessert? Hell yeah! On this side of the table that means mascarpone cheesecake with splodges of passion fruit gel: it’s creamy, perky, light and smooth – everything I want and more. But that’s not to say I can’t resist a nip at the dessert sitting opposite: a deep chocolate mousse paired with refreshing peppermint ice cream. Again, it’s happiness on a plate. Suspicions were rife when the Sofitel made a noise about their new-look restaurant, but who’s laughing now. Suspend your disbelief that a chain hotel can get it so right, Warsaw has changed and so should you. Go there. Eat. Enjoy. (AW) Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne ul. Królewska 11, brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com www.warsawinsider.pl
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Partner News
The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…
A Big Deal
Not content with re-hauling their menu, Kitchen have unleashed a storm of daily deals that include zł. 10 Bloody Mary’s on Sunday, zł. 39 rib-eyes each Tuesday and halfprice drinks every Monday. But the real clincher? Six oysters and a bottle of Prosecco for zł. 69 on Weds. Hurry! Kitchen ul. Widok 8, kitchenrestaurant.pl
N OO S G NIN E OP
Best Cellars
Catching On
Hot Launch!
Running till the end of November, Dom Polski are offering their guests 50% off all wine (up to zł. 300) every Friday. Trumpeting one of the top wine lists in the city, the menu includes the only bottles of Baronne Charlotte 2012 in Warsaw.
Along come two more reasons to visit Dwie Trzecie. First, Tuesday’s ‘nice to MEAT you’ night offering a specialist grill menu for guests, then there’s the Fish Market held each Wednesday and Thursday with its choice of fresh Atlantic catches – you’ll be hooked!
From the team that brought you Kaskrut comes Tapage, a venue situated underneath pl. Zbawiciela’s atmospheric colonnades. Offering cocktails and small plates, the menu is the handiwork of head chef Piotr Ceranowicz. Scheduled to open at the start of May.
Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11 restauracjadompolski.pl
Dwie Trzecie ul. Wilcza 50/52, dwietrzecie.waw.pl
Tapage pl. Zbawiciela 5
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The Pearl of Lublin
The Perła brewery’s flagship bar has left the city soaked in style… and beer.
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et 170 kilometers South East of Warsaw, the town of Lublin is a true Polish gem: a city surrounded with not just history and legend, but over 85% of Poland’s supply of hops. It makes sense, therefore, to find a rich brewing heritage, one fronted by a regional brewery founded in the middle of the 19th century – Perła, take a bow. Set in the heart of Lublin, actually inside the historic Perła brewery, is the Perłowa Beer House, a place whose mission is to promote Polish beer culture. As such, it’s become known as a place where beer lovers convene to taste unique beverages from the brewers of Lublin and Zwierzyniec: many of them produced exclusively for this bar and unavailable on the wider market. And where there is good beer there is great food. The
exquisite cuisine of our region is presented by chef Przemysław Kaproń, a slow food aficionado committed to using local cheese markets, fish farms and local producers. On his menu find homemade sausages, mustard, pastries and even ice cream… Also available in the Perłowa Beer House, find an array of alternative alcohols, including wines from the Solaris winery in Opole Lubelskie, a choice of liquors and cordials, and the celebrated White Dog whiskey from the Kozuba & Sons Distillery. With all that to consider, there’s nothing left to say other than to extend our invitation to Lublin’s top bar! Perła Pijalnia Piwa ul. Bernardyńska 15 (Lublin), perla.pl/pijalnia-piwa www.warsawinsider.pl
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Ready To Roll
Mobile burger champions Beef’N’Roll set firm foundations on Nowy Świat…
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t’s the sort of feel good story everyone loves to hear: two mates chucking in the day job to gamble their life savings on a crazy idea that might just work. That, in short, is the background of Beef’N’Roll, a place that started life as a modest food truck pimping itself around Warsaw. The food truck is still around, only now it’s complimented by a bricks and mortar sit-down space on Nowy Świat. It seems like a thousand years ago that Warsaw woke up and decided to eat nothing but burgers, but while the peak period has passed that’s been good news for Piotr and Sebastian at Beef’N’Roll: the pretenders and fakers are dead, with only the best of the best surviving the burger Armageddon. And have no doubt, you’ll find Beef’N’Roll occupying a spot at the top of the table. The cause of this is straight forward enough: a devotion to quality. “Before our first food truck rolled onto the streets,” says Sebastien, “we spent six months trying different recipes out.” Some of these remain a closely guarded secret, their famed sauces
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for instance. “All our sauces apart from the ketchup are homemade,” he adds, “and only us two know the ingredients – we don’t want anyone running away with the recipe!” Yet the sauces are only a small part of it: there’s the buns, specifically supplied to them by an artisan bakery, and the meat itself – 180 grams of quality Polish cow. These are the foundations of a menu that is a balance between classic (cheeseburger, BBQ, etc.) and more off-kilter choices. Of the more maverick options, the Nachos burger has something approaching a cult status. Add fries (cooked with rosemary and chili) and a craft beer and you have the sort of dinner that gives you a buzz. Augmenting the experience is the place itself, a cool and calming spot with chilled out music and Shepard Fairey prints. So that crazy idea mentioned at the start? It looks like it’s worked… Beef’N’Roll ul. Nowy Świat 36, beefnroll.pl
The Euro Star
As glorious as Poland’s ‘brew-olution’ has been, let’s be real, no-one does beer better than the Belgians. And you’ll see that for yourself in Chmiel, a compact café whose shelves present around 100 Belgian beers: from big boys like Kwak to ‘outside of the box’ choices such as Zwet.be. Glug them down to an accompaniment of snacks, cheeses and olives from boutique brands while languishing under the sultry gaze of a Manet nude… Chmiel Café ul. Chmielna 27/31, chmielcafe.pl
12% discount on beer if you tell our staff “Belgian beer is the best!”
www.warsawinsider.pl
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La Dolce Vita
Bemowo Gets Its Day In The Mediterranean Sun
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ith its endless rows of Legoland apartment blocks Bemowo doesn’t strike visitors as being a culinary heartland but that, in part, is why you’ll find La Pancia Piena squirreled down a residential side street. “I wanted something away from the limelight,” says the owner, “basically a nice family restaurant.” And that is what has been developed over the last four years. Firmly removed from the flash and glitter of downtown Warsaw, La Pancia Piena is an antidote to all that city center clamor. Instead, it reveals itself as a snug little venue with its ochre walls decorated with Venetian street scenes. Locals pass by stopping in for a casual beer on a shaded terrace – it’s that sort of place: relaxed, informal, a place to hang about in. Trends, you quickly get the idea, aren’t something La Pancia are preoccupied with. It’s a straight forward menu that ignores modern complications to instead offer a taste of the classics. It’s something the owner confirms as he moves between kitchen and tables: “what you eat here is good food made using the right ingredients, it’s as simple as that.” That means a prodigious choice of historical favorites: big, leafy salads, generous pastas and a full line-up of
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pizzas the size of car tires. It’s a menu that doesn’t muck about and needlessly pervert a faultless cuisine – and let that hang like the complement it’s meant as. La Pancia Piena ul. Pełczyńskiego 32 lok. U9, facebook.com/LaPanciaPiena
Loft Style
Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu isn’t short of character either, but then what else would you expect from a choice that includes a dish called ‘three pigs, but where is the wolf?’ High on fun it might be, but Loft’s kitchen takes business seriously with big (nay, massive) plates of international recipes composed of the freshest ingredients. Loft ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, cafeloft.pl
www.warsawinsider.pl
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the Right fit
Nothing announces style more than a made-to-measure shirt; now, that luxury can be yours for a fraction of the expected price…
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aunched to much acclaim in India in 2012, The Bombay Shirt Company now find themselves on the Polish market thanks to the dual efforts of Łukasz and Barbara. Touting a history in fashion and media, the pair have made it their business to introduce this cult brand to Polish shores. “Of course there are good tailors here,” says Łukasz, “but they don’t offer much in the way of flexibility – at BSC, however, there are no limits when it comes to designing shirts.” Aiming to provide a luxurious experience that won’t bleed the bank, the Warsaw division of BSC place an emphasis on convenience – meetings are arranged at either the client’s home or office, with the complete made-to-measure adventure brought right to your doorstep. “We’ll bring everything to you,” promises Barbara. That means over 160 quality fabrics, not to mention a portable changing room. Most importantly, it also means the laptop, with a 3D model allowing buyers to view every small detail of
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the tailoring process – right down to the stitching. No element is overlooked, from button threads to monograms, from collar height to cuffs. “There are no restrictions,” underlines Łukasz, “whatever design you imagine, we’ll make it.” Yet Bombay do not just offer the opportunity for clients to get playful: the key is all about the sizing. “Ordering a tailored shirt ensures the perfect fit,” says Łukasz, “something you just won’t get if you rely on the high street.” With the order signed, the next step sees it sent to a state-of-the-art facility in India with the finished product returning to Warsaw within 14 days. Aiming to ‘channel the client’s individuality’, that this operation is entirely affordable (shirts retail from zł. 300-350) has elevated the brand into a must-have bookmark for the gentlemen of Warsaw. Bombay Shirt Company Poland ul. Hoża 58/60 (Cophi), tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com
restaurants KEY
NEW & NOTEWORTHY
$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner
ARTKITCHEN (ul. Domaniewska 34A, artkitchen.pl) Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski. The modern international menu is composed by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations.
african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty food shops steak houses thai whole foods
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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.
african MEZA BEIRUT (ul. Ordynacka 13) God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebanese-run, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest.
Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $ www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants american Blue Plate Chicken (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 794 494 477, open 7:00-3:00 The aim at Blue Plate is to combine slow food with soul food: a big call that goes to plan. There’s not too much choice, but points go to their healthy take on British breakfast, not to mention their homage to all things chicken: wings, strippers and assorted bits and bobs. Looking completely casual and at ease with itself, this little nook (small bar downstairs, seats crammed in upstairs), is exactly what Warsaw needs: simple, consistent food and natural ingredients served at moderate prices. $ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos – one with hangar steak and the other with battered tilapia – not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: many swear they’re the best to be found. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www.
champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, open 9:00-24:00, www.jeffs.pl Head to Jeff’s for supersize portions from the ribs and wings class. Servings might be big, but don’t anticipate any further fireworks with regards to the food. $ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.
someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$
asian Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent
ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!
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listings / restaurants accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.canton.warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$
Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the
Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing,
punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, open 12:00-22:00, www.pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $
Restauracja / Bar / Klub
ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku
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listings / restaurants Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $
Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $
Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$
balkan & russian
Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379, open 12:00-20:00 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $
burgers
Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open MonSun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home. The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open
british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$
Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl
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Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll. Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open
listings / restaurants 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over last summer, and one joyously received by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $
Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $
cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $
Bistro Berlin (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 43, tel. 601 166 566, open Mon-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00 Authentic German wurst plus Belgian-style frites served inside a busy off-license. If eating amid people queuing for booze doesn’t flick your switch, then order from the streetside hatch. Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $
pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But
Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:0021:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www.jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $ Kurczaki (D7) Oleandrów 8, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 If you like your birds spitroasted then look no further than Kurczaki, a budget eatery whose specialty is chicken. Wait it out in sweltering temperatures before being rewarded by ace chicken cooked in varying sizes and styles: depending on the day, that could mean in beer or in Thai or Jamaican sauces. $
Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl
Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them. The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $
cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www.
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jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.
cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$
french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve
into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoriawarsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.
german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $
greek & turkish Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like
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listings / restaurants presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish! It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $
indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$
Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-
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24:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub. com or www.indiaexpress.pl Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student? Well Mandala offers something similar. Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a
lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, open 11:00-22:00, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$
international Aioli Inspired by Mini pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse. You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would
listings / restaurants serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż Widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelece, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and stoking the fire in their new winter garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$
Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, Fred Flintstone-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And
all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$ Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven. Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$
Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Step right in. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open
Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło I Powidło (see Burgers) has its accent on more high end meats, and specifically steaks. The food, however, never hits the heights the steep prices would suggest. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants 22:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$
Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen – Grzegorz Nowakowski – has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with blobs of emulsion and smears of coffee puree. Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:3023:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the
filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:3023:00; Fri 8:30-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, Open Tue-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 13:00-last guest , www.facebook.com/ dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$
Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen. pl It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce. Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork. After a six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation. The ‘comfort food’ menu is a hit parade of meatballs, burgers, and other such creations made using the best natural, BEST WAWA 2014 local ingredients. “Reinvention” Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel. 784 461 397, open 11:00-23:00 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$
Dear Guests! We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine. Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in. Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness. Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222
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listings / restaurants La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a few
months for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer” Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, cafeloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$ Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his
skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, open Sun-Mon 10:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-3:00 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$
Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without
“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”
ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl Reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl
Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 Lunch, 18:00-22:30 Dinner, Sat 13:00-23:00 www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Chef” BEST WAWA 2014 “Fine Dining” Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean
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hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Barek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats, while the wine list has been endorsed by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s champion sommelier. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49,
tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$
listings / restaurants Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked i sea salt. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese
corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening. $$
Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cutprice interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$
Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www. restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they
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thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, restauracjaszklarnia.pl Natalia Huzarwicz’s cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light spring dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43. pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with
horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider Tamka one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on
listings / restaurants a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – two years after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl. Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t
soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$
italian
You & Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar. pl A modern looking eatery / cocktail bar whose kitchen has a distinct liking for pan-European dishes and seafood. Set over two floors, their enduring popularity – eight years and counting – makes it something of a legend on Żurawia. $$
Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $
Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:00-23:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills. You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention. There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.
Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00 After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to the market and expanded to the center. While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent. Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing
• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef. • Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes. • The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849
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listings / restaurants giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which
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curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www.
winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 Not long back this was the go-to place for Italian expats looking for pizza. What’s gone wrong? No idea, but recent trips reveal a kitchen that hasn’t so much rested on its laurels as died on them. $ La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047, open Sun-Thu 10:30-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.latomatina.pl
listings / restaurants Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:0023:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a
slightly younger audience. $$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 18, tel. 22 625 5417, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl At times you suspect you’ve walked into the 90s, what with the embellishments that appear at each turn – a Vespa, some stone lions, a water well. But this is no bad thing: at a time when restaurants are doing their best to look stripped down and functional, cheerful Antonio feels jaunty and fun. And the food, created by Sicilian-born Antonio Centurrino, has several redeeming qualities: the penne arrabiata is delicious in its simplicity, though for a piece of heaven try the gnocchi tartufati. No less than a warm trattoria whose specialty is good, simple food. $$
‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’
Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Trattoria Rucola ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola.pl They’ve expanded to cover many locations across town, and in doing so have lost many of their regulars – as far as a chain enterprise goes, the pizza remains pretty good, but you feel a certain spark has been lost as a consequence of their growth. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel. 22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$
is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$
are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$
japanese & sushi
Robata by Akashia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, www. akashia.pl, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$
Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:0022:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana. pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$
Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees
Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors
Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a
Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl
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listings / restaurants good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$
jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open
Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:00-23:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $
latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00 This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined.
Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl
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listings / restaurants Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $
Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in
hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45° and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts,
the food at Gringo is the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing. Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for ‘hot dates’. There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic volte face. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring
The best flavors are created using passion
CENTER: ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel +48 (22 621 82 68 open 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. +48 608 046 406 open 9:00 - 20:00 www. smakiwarszawy.pl
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listings / restaurants skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch? Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. BEST WAWA 2014 Just amazing. $$ “Casual Dining” Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing
matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 15 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as amongst the best around. $$
middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The
couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$
Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$
Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$
Come Taste Our New Spring Menu Le Cedre 61
opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66
Le Cedre 84
opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99
www.lecedre.pl
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listings / restaurants Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira.pl There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$
Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation” Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $
polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$
Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www.aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first (and only) Michelin star,
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Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $
Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$
Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$
Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$
Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$
Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$
listings / restaurants Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$
Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good kneesup around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates. Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead! An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed
in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$
Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Kuchnia make slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow, while the garden gives people the opportunity to eavesdrop the big concerts at the stadium next door! $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Monwww.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $
But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care. In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $
Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, open 10:00-22:00, przystawki.com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy.
Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami.pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR
restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.
Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open MonFri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away
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with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend, though it’ll be curious to see if the crowds still pack in following the loss of their alcohol license. Food like this really needs beer – without it, well, you be the judge. $$
Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $
scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$
listings / restaurants specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher. Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine. Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the
globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available. La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.maho.com.pl An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry. Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehen-
sive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.
steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / restaurants Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is
indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers. The standard is high, but so too the prices. Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$
Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$
thai Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel. 662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$
Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl
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OLIVA_KWIECIEN_46x206_03 2015.04.16
listings / restaurants Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 An anonymous design and out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here. But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence – we’ll be back soon to see how they’ve faced it. $$
Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $
Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:0023:00 The loss of the original chef, Sanad Changpuen, has had a ripple-down effect on the final product. There’s a competence to the dishes, but a basic lack of fire and dazzle. It’s decent enough for Warsaw, but those who’ve had the real thing leave underwhelmed. What a shame that is, because in terms of design its little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. $$
Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistro-pestka. pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Even the fish is tested for high metal content. Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $
Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Opening in May and we can’t wait! The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. Previews suggest a contemporary space in line with city trends, and a menu built around recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line. Full review next issue.
Totomato (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, open Mon-Fri 8:30-22:00; Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00, totomato. pl A one-time contestant of the Top Chef program, chef Marcin Piotrowski grabs the limelight once more with his reemergence at Totomato. Branded a ‘deli, bistro and culinary academy’, this standout champions ideas of slow food and healthy living: the Mazurian farmed snails are exceptional. $$
Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$
whole foods
Vegan Pizza ul. Poznańska 7, open 12:00-22:00 While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $
Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $
W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $
restauracjaoliva.pl
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Warszawa
Ordynacka 10/12
open 12 am - 11 pm
WELCOME www.warsawinsider.pl
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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY
LODY PRAWDZIWE (ul. Nowy Świat 22) There was one hands-down victor in last year’s ice cream wars, and that was Lody Prawdziwe, a new entrant that won blanket praise. While the original on Świętokrzyska 30 is still alive, expect their new location to be the one that gets the crowds – big crowds. Priding themselves on the provenance of their ingredients, past picks from this artisan producer include Colombian coffee, Oreo and Madagascan vanilla. Others still swoon over their cherry choice.
bakeries Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger. Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte. com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty. Monique Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 629 3974, moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants always hit the mark. Przystanek Piekarnia (D6) ul. Koszykowa 58, przystanekpiekarnia.pl The atmosphere is brisk and buzzing inside what’s emerged as the breadbasket of choice for Warsaw’s fashionistas. An interesting design authored by architect Maciej Kurkowski makes use of dozens of wooden slats that seemingly cascade from the ceiling, but make no mistake, the talking point is the bread and luxurious pastries.
SAM BAJGLE (ul. Emilii Plater 8, samcatering.pl) Considering the bagel was (allegedly) born in Kraków, the lack of good ones in Warsaw has always bewildered. Until now. From the people who gave you SAM – purveyors of the best bread in Wa-wa – comes this bagel store. They don’t reinvent the wheel with their offer, they’re just happy to get it right. Score homemade ice cream and fresh pomegranate juice as well though expect to have them on the run – the place is tiny.
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SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.
listings / cafés & wine bars cafés Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal. Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on-trend 30 something’s. Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema. Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of
being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit? They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined! Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, open chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand. Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout. With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone. Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 513 422 908, open 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.
Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-20:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level. Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field. Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book
selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, open 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; SatSun 10:00-20:00 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light. Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 732 870 780, open 15:0020:00 “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner. www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / cafés & wine bars Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind. La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, open 10:00-20:00, www.lavanille.pl Thick with the scent of icing sugar, La Vanille’s big boast are cupcakes that will make you swoon. Find them lined up in precise formation under a glass counter, and don’t forego the cakes in the display case to the right. It looks chic and glossy, but most get the cupcakes packed up to go for private indulgence. Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:0022:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe. BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00,
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www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic. Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. Odette ul. Górskiego 6/07, open Tue-Sun 10:0020:00; Mon 13:00-20:00, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that Piotr Chylarecki’s sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments. Organic Coffee ul. Piękna 19, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00, organiccoffee.pl Consider the name a misnomer – it’s not just coffee that’s organic here, but practically everything else on offer. By their reckoning, 99% of the goods on offer are natural, and that includes their cakes, cookies, sandwiches and salads. Immediately relaxing, Organic thrives as a happening meeting spot throughout the day.
Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 22 870 13 25, open Mon-Wed 12:00-22:30; Thu-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental. Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. Stor ul. Tamka 33, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:30; Sat-Sun 8:30-19:00 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.
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Sueño Café & Tapas Bar ul. Oboźna 9/100, tel. 22 826 8317, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 The simple décor, inspired by a traveller’s way of living, provides a casual yet lively atmosphere. Surfboards and beach photographs decorate the walls and hammocks hang from the ceilings. The owners, kite surfers and avid travellers, have combined ideas from various different countries – evident not only in the décor but also in the menu. Tarabuk ul. Browarna 4, tel. 22 827 0814, open
listings / cafés & wine bars 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00 “I come here to escape Warsaw,” confides one Insider. And yeah, there’s a quality to Tarabuk that allows one to do just that. Heaving with books and raggedy furniture, it’s a place in which to order an eco-tea, maybe a slice of cake, open Chapter 12 and then let hours slip away. Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans. Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 tel. 22 828 4998, open 9:00-22:00 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/ café attracts plenty of readers to its booklined interior. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. Znak Zapytania (E9) ul. Puławska 42, open Mon-Fri 11:00-1:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Zap is the kind of place you wished you had next door: lively, a little hidden and carefully decorated: bricks walls, contemporary sofas and zippy graphics. Drinks include the botanical tastes of Fentimans, homemade lemonades and artisan beers, and to go with those there’s a daily menu big on seasonal produce.
wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open
Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00 Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The shaded courtyard garden is a seasonal highlight. Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, www.mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.
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Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 661 661 150, open 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, wejmanwinebar. pl The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar. WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open MonSat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www. winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open MonSat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection.
Solutions
right around the corner... . Cophi Cafe, ulica Hoza 58|60 www.warsawinsider.pl
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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE
BAR WIECZORNY (ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl) In actuality Wieczorny opened last year, but it deserves its name in highlights. Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty! The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) muddled with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.
SYZYSZKA CHMIELU (Al. KEN 36, pubszyszkachmielu.pl) The beer scene is Ursynów is seriously hopping up. First came Pociąg Do Piwa, then Vyceska, and now this tongue twister. The 14 taps offer largely safe local options, so head to the fridge for adventurous brews from the likes of Mikeller, AleSmith and Nogne O. In an added plus, this is just about the first tap bar that realizes that some people out there like football: it’s filled with slick screens beaming the big match.
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bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual. Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite… Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank. Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.
listings / nightlife Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd. What has remained constant is the energy. Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound. British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example. Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.browarmia.pl A brewery first and foremost – and an average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome. Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Despite
sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29. Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest, www.kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. Ceska ul. Chmielna 35, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, ceska.pl The place itself looks formulaic with lots of wood and glinting copper tanks, but the beer is the business. That includes a grand milk pour, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. But that’s part of the problem. You’re likely to be drinking so much of it that the staff can’t keep up. With table service only you’re in the hands of these footsoldiers, and here they’re the most hapless individuals you’re liable to find. Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, chmielarnia.waw. pl With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic
and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela. Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts. Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless: no one does it better, whether it’s a restorative Bloody Mary, or a finely crafted Mojito. Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is frequently utilized for various one off events and food truck meets. Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond. Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / nightlife traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet. Czysta Ojczysta ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, open Mon-Fri 18:004:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00 Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo. Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.
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Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.
Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.
Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:0022:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.
Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!
Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily 11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night. Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Unbeknown to some publicans, craft beer is not a numbers game – it’s not about how many taps you have, it’s about what comes out of them. This lot understood that from the start. Quality control is stringent, yet aside from pouring the perfect pint (every time), Jedna Trzecia have a choice that reflects the latest developments on the global craft scene: rare find international brews are a specialty and presented in an industrial, concrete space softened by it’s mustard lighting and laidback audience. BEST WAWA 2014 “Craft Beer Bar”
Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.
listings / nightlife Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone, Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles. It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www. lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged. Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat.
been more overt than on Nowogrodzka. Joining the inner circle of craft beer bars is Bla Bla, a place of ten taps rotating Polish piwo – with the occasional international guest. The advantage Bla Bla holds over others are its cool curvy sofas and a pricing structure that allows people to buy halfpints at… half the price – out here, that’s not always been the given that it might otherwise sound. Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:005:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:00-24:00 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the onset of sunshine means you can enjoy them on the expanse of greenery directly outside. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.
Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit. OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, tel. 603 103 888, open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!). Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer
Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, open 9:00-6:00 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends. The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła. Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, open 14:00-2:00, blabla.com.pl Nowhere has ‘the tap takeover’
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listings / nightlife memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights. Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera. com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see. Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Grandiosely declaring themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap’ bar, Piw Paw’s armory includes 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, Piw Paw nonetheless packs out with
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punters often spilling outside creating an almost street party vibe.
comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.
Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.
Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:00-24:00 Whoever thought theming a bar on a communist hospital deserves to be sectioned off to one. The interiors are fun (operating theater lights, surgical utensils and a row of toilets in the smoking room), but beyond the gimmickry it’s a place of conventional (bad) Polish beers and frosty staff – if that’s part of the theme we’d rather it weren’t.
Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.
Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 831 98 75, open 15:00-last guest Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.
Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.
Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink that kicks like a mule.
Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2, tel. 501 022 890, open 14:00-last guest Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops. There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar. Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke
Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck. Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open
listings / nightlife Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandylegged and shouting for more. Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. Temat Rzeka (G3) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge, open Sun-Tue 11:00-1:00; Wed 11:00-2:00; Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-5:00 Due to open at some point in May, Temat Rzeka has been a sensation the last couple of summers, with nowhere else in Europe having more internet check-ins. The beach area in front of this sleek riverside cabin attracts hundreds, sometimes thousands, of late night revelers. Vyceska ul. Polinezyjska 10, open 13:00-23:00 As welcome as the craft revolution has been, there are times you just want a good honest pint: so how about this, a multi-tap whose focus zooms on all things Czech. There’s eight taps and a wealth of bottles to traipse through as well as a small menu of food designed to sustain protracted drinking sessions. All this in an interior that’s dark and slick but not short of character – all of a sudden moving out to Ursynów seems a rather smart idea. W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6, open Sun-Mon 12:002:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider
Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat. Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle. pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year. Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 602 773 997, open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele comprised of architects. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. You & Me ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl The dreaded restobar concept doesn’t always work, but You & Me manage to get both the food AND the drink right. And in
their case, that mean innovative cocktails enjoyed by an after-work crowd of posey city slickers. The terrace is where the action is at. Zamieszanie ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, open Thu-Sat 19:002:00 Cuda Na Kiju have built on last year’s success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their brew pub. Here though its cocktails that are the draw. While the pre-bottled drinks mean you have none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktails, they cut down waiting times. And yes, they are actually good.
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listings / nightlife clubs De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior. Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants. Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Gorochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060,
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senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. Full review next month.
gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.
live music Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone,
papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.
shot bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, open 11:00-2:00; Fri 11:00-6:00; Sat 15:00-6:00; Sun 15:00-2:00 In terms of style Afera seems more sanitized than Warsaw’s other shot bars. But is it more sane? No chance! When the clubs have closed top-up your alcohol levels by necking little shots of horror from one of the most complete vodka menus in town. Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, open 14:00-4:00, barwarszawa.pl Creak upstairs to find a warm space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations such as vintage radios and black and white photos of bare breasted prostitutes. Run as a side project by a TV producer, flexible opening hours mean it doesn’t always close at the stated 4 a.m. Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5 Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order in this round-the-clock bar.
shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…
TOP MUSEUM & GALLERY BOOKSTORES MUSEUM & GALLERY BOOKSTORES MOMA (pictured) (ul. Pańska 3) Connected to the Museum of Modern Art, this café / bookstore has a beautiful collection of titles from big shots like Phaidon, Steidl and other such publishing houses. If you’re looking to expand your coffee table selection then there’s no better place to head to. POLIN (ul. Anielewicza 6) It’s no surprise to learn that this behemoth didn’t forget a bookstore when they launched late last year. The choice reflects the international footfall, with an array of books, albums and audio guides that concern themselves with Jewish history. Pleasingly, the subject matter goes way beyond the Holocaust. DSH (ul. Karowa 20) True buffs recognize history has no language barriers, so while the overwhelming majority of books here are in Polish it’s hard to leave without a bag full of photo albums and other hard-backed miscellany dealing with Poland’s modern history. Pick-up the bi-lingual Archimapa series to conduct your own tours of Warsaw. NEON MUZEUM (ul. Mińska 25) The smallest of the lot, but so many diverse titles of general interest: cool guides, maps and other stuff you can’t resist after you’ve just spent time in a completely brilliant place. Of course, there’s also some fab tomes about the history of neon.
Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite. BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00. www.chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / shopping Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. www.frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Kate Roxs ul. Radna 10, kateroxs.eu Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.” Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open
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Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.
Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:0021:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.
fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Balthazar ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 657 0311, balthazar. pl Enjoying a close cooperation with Sartoria Partenopea, Balthazar offer bespoke, made-to-measure tailored after a meeting with the house ‘style expert’. Image consultancy also available. Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com Custom-made shirts for
both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’. Chrum ul. Dobra 53, tel. 22 415 5224, chrum. com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor. Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories. Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lolly Pop Boutique Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans,
listings / shopping Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom. Madox ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com Best known for the baggy crotched trousers that took Warsaw by storm a couple of years back, Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street casual against unisex ideas.
Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon. Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.
Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel. 506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great
selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200? She’s a Riot ul. Mokotowska 24, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, shop. shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette. Two Can Play ul. Wilcza 32, two-can-play.com For those who value individuality in fashion owner Michał has created a progressive concept store that looks to promote brands that you’d struggle to find here: nat & nin, Denham, Eleven Paris, White Tent and much more besides. Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop. Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands include: Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids. Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace
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listings / shopping creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design. Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.
home Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. Numero Uno ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www. numerouno.pl Beautiful home design store with brands include Ipe Cavalli, Zanette, Doimo and Calia Italia. The sofas are out of this world. Prices start at mid-range and stretch to steep, so watch out for their sales which can reach up to 70% off. Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 8373, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc. Product Placement ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com Anyone doubting Poland’s growing reputation in the world of home design hasn’t been to Product Placement. Ceramics, furniture, textiles, kitchenware, bags and gadgets – everything is worth a look. Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces from upcoming and domestic design studios.
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SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices. Spod Lady ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com Step in and breathe in the atmosphere of communist Poland. This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update. Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store. Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses. Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.
malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 828 6789 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious. Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc
Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13. Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.
family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.
NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM(S)!
Even the most cultured of kids, when you mention a trip to the museum, might give a shrug of disinterest. But suggest they can stay up all night, and you know you’re onto a winner! So combine the two and take the family out for this city’s hottest event of the year: Warsaw’s annual Museum Night on the 16-17th May. Check their website (kulturalna.warszawa. pl/events) and choose from over 200 venues! Three in particular worth yawning for the next day include: Wedel Chocolate Factory (tours from noon till midnight, wedel.pl) Willy Wonka did it with golden tickets, Wedel does it for FREE! Just once a year the factory opens its doors and allows the general public to take a peek at the magical world of creating chocolate. Every 15mins a limited amount of people will be ushered through the entrance and then led towards the top secret production line! After, follow the wafting aroma of cocoa through a ‘memory hall’ and a gallery showcasing chocolate sculptures before stopping at the tasting/gift area.
PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS
Neon Museum (open till 1 a.m., neonmuzeum.org) 2015 is the International Year of Light and this museum has plenty of reason to celebrate. Never before have so many neon signs been lit in one place, so there’s no need to be afraid of the dark here! But if visual stimulation is not enough for your little tike then let the hypnotic sounds of DJ Rafał Rejowski drown out any whining! Multimedia Fountain Park (start 9 p.m.) The water fountain, located by the riverside, with its colorful laser lights and music show promises to be a spectacular event that will last about 25 minutes. No ticket or queuing necessary, making this the perfect place to start or end your family evening. (GBB)
Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered. Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended. Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults. Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / family physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children. Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów. Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome. Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web. Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.
education preschools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.
The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15. The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel. 781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated
with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17. Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five. The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden. The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)
Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.
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listings / family Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.
The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com
The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of GIVE Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro
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lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.
a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.
Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 offers an authentic Montessori curriculum 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immersupported by a Music & Art program, with a sion’ method, each class has two teachers natural playground and a strong focus on an – one Polish-speaking, the other English. ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two Through this children have all-day contact classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) with different languages, absorbing them in and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them YOUR Adistrict PREMIUM everyday situations. In accordance with the located inCHILD the Wilanów of Warsaw, inEDUCA-
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listings / family hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes. Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.
schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.
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The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system. The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir),
sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.
The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PRLB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy.
Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.
listings / family Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel. 887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials. Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.
cafes Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent
cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile. Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.
shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it
with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.
Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping. Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.
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health & beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out. Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out. Kettler ul. Okopowa 56, tel. 22 826 3541, pl.kettler. net The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.
WARSAW RUGBY FESTIVAL
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ot everyone is aware of the fact that Warsaw will host two major sport events in May. One is the Europa League final, the other is the Warsaw Rugby Festival to be hosted by the Frogs & Co. RFC. Taking place every May since 1996 the rugby tournament, previously known as “The Warsaw 10s”, has become one of the hottest dates of the year for Warsaw-based rugger buggers. This year’s festival will take place at AWF Warszawa, Marymoncka 34, on May 23rd & 24th. The games will be played on two pitches with a total 20 teams from 11 countries signed up to play. In addition there will also be the Ladies 7s Cup, and an exhibition game played by the Junior Frogs and an invitationed Polish team. Besides the (Russian) champagne rugby, the hosts have ensured that everyone will be entertained: Sunday will see a bouncy castle and other activities for kids, while additionally teams representing “unpopular” Warsaw sports have been invited to set up stalls in order to drum up popularity. And of course there will be a beer garden, there will be food, and you will be able to buy rugby memorabilia at the event. On top of this there will be a raffle giveaway featuting ‘stuff’ that touring teams have brought along with all the winnings going to charity. Admission is free. (AB)
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Plumbike ul. Puławska 67/69, tel. 690 005 415, plumbike.eu More of a bike boutique than a standard old bike store. Assembled by hand by the Plumbike team, the models here are beautiful, and range from choppers to cruisers in eye-catching colors. Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.
gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.
listings / health & beauty Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.
Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.
Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.
RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).
Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.
ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.
McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s),
tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.
dental clinics
Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the
traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist. DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations. EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced. Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph. Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic. Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.
Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul. Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment. English-speaking service also available.
medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely. Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / health & beauty Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.
spas & salons
0 Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field. Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.” Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products. Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such
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things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives. The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience. Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body. Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw. pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have? Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself. Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered. La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one! Rostowski ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Spearside ul. Grzybowski 63, spearside.pl A male spa / salon offering massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range
of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. More modern-looking than the rest, hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.
sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly. Centrum Golf – Sklep & Symulatory Golfowe ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 22 428 88 84, 2golf.pl A great way to introduce yourself to the game, Centrum Golf offers HDGolf simulators that will take you to the world’s most famous gold courses. The center is home to the only open golf league in the country. First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), tel. 22 782 4555, firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 71, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, club house and a stunning backdrop to which to enjoy it all. Golf Park Jozefów ul. Telimeny (Józefów), tel. 22 778 3090, holiday.aquila.pl A six-hold course plus a floodlit driving range and mini-golf. Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl. Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook. Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.
listings / health & beauty Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.
RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, riverview.com.pl Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember.
swimming
Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.
Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities. Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, holmesplace. pl All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. Enquire direct about membership fees. Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all levels of proficiency: from total beginners to competitive swimmers.
yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel. 888 204 020, www.bikram.pl A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome. Diamond Pilates ul. Powsińska 106, tel. 22 331 4495,
diamondpilates.pl The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors. Padma Studio ul. Wilcza 32/100, tel. 22 625 1217, padmastudio.pl A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness. Pilates (Private Classes) Tel. 608 499 666. A private studio in Wilanów with classes for one to four people that guarantee 100% attention from Laura, your instructor. Yoga Medica ul. Racławicka 28, tel. 22 409 0354, yogamedica.pl Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues. Yoga Republic ul. Śniadeckich 18 lok. 1, tel. 790 805 853, www.yogarepublic.pl This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east. Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations (Mysore, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Beginner’s).
Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów. Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics
• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry
• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab
www.warsawinsider.pl
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in the city PLAC CRAWL Konstytucji
Sometimes referred to as ‘the propaganda district’, pl. Konstytucji is where post-war architects went completely nuts and embraced Socialist idealism to the max. Much of the district actually survived the war (for evidence see the tenement – currently being restored – at Koszykowa 49), but the bumps and bruises it sustained were deemed sufficient to bulldoze most of the area and begin with a blank slate. Officially opened on July 22nd, 1952, the square’s signature became its monumental lampposts and decorative reliefs of drill-carrying miners and scythe-wielding peasants. Designed to house party favorites and other dignitaries, the apartments ringing the square were considered the best in the city, with rent amounting to half the average salary. By the end of the 1950s neon was to become a big part of Konstyucji, with three iconic signs glittering in the night. One survives, that being the Siatkarka, a leaping volleyball player that was added to the rooftops in 1961 to advertise a sports shop. She was restored in 2005 by artist Paulina Orłowska and once again illuminates the Plac. Today the square is a curious imbalance between loud Western advertising and Socialist leftovers, though progress is being made to humanize the area: restaurants are opening, buildings scrubbed and feel-good touches being added – a case in point, a stretchof grass alongside the tram tracks at one end of the square.
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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels
Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl
H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw
Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl
4-Star Hotels
Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl
Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl
apartments
InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.
B&B
Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu
Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com
Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl
Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com
Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl
Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl
car rental
3-Star Hotels
Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com
Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl
Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000
Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www. trustrentacar.pl www.warsawinsider.pl
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listings / in the city useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week. Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. 22 194 31, warsawtour.pl
RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com
Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration
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assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.
Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.
pets
Bone Pet Club ul. Jedności 118, tel. 507 144 044, petclub.pl Dogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds and many other pets are welcomed inside this ‘hotel and spa’ designed exclusively for their use. Facilities include grooming, lodging, pool, pet taxis and socialization classes. All pet sitters speak fluent English.
nominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children and adults. InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town. Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.
museums
Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 IN JANUARY E-LEARNING FOR FREE!596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty Contact us for more details. and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.
polish for foreigners
POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS
Klub Dialogu TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses Ordynacka 13/5, - ul. intensive Y - regular JANUAR 664 788 IN 004, - tel. weekend ING at the school or at your place E-LEARN ! First Lesson Free www.klubdialogu.pl EE Free conversation classes FOR FR Outstanding programs www.klubdialogu.pl Contact usfor details. info@klubdialogu.pl e or m Poland forin foreigners living tel. 664 788 004 offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.
CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till June 14: Piotr Bosacki – The Issue Is Being Handled. Animated films, musical apparatuses, machines that produce images and sounds as well as ‘spaces designed to arouse a sensual experience’…
Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel. 880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.
Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until October 18: First Photographers of Warsaw: Beyer, Brandel, Fajans. For details see p.22.
International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interde-
The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with
community
listings / in the city a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip
tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl
Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a
French classic with strong Polish accent.
Disco ver our new exquisite Spring Menu!
Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne zaprasza Pn. - Sob. 12:00-24:00, Królewska 11, 00-065 Warszawa, Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82, E-mail: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com, www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne
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listings / in the city restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see! Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art. Ongoing till May 17: Recto / Verso – Andrzej Wróblewski. This exhibition concentrates, we’re told, on two phases of this Polish artist’s work: the very beginning, when he was trying to discover his own style (1948-1949), and the very end (1956-1957) when, after a period of faith in socialist realism, he attempted to redefine himself and start from scratch. Ongoing till August 23: Lest The Two Seas Meet. Inspired by the Arab Spring, presents the works of numerous international artists, among them Mona Hatoum, Emily Jacir and Walid Raad. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days yore. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till May 2: Olga Boznańska. The works of this Polish great have been sourced from near and far to present the most extensive collection of her work ever seen. From May 28: The Pope of the Avant-Garde. Tadeusz Peiper in Spain,
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Poland and Europe. The exhibition presents the relationship between avant-garde art and literature of the early 20th century, taking the oeuvre of Tadeusz Peiper as its central point. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.
The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower. Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs. Ongoing till May 31: Cannibalism? This exhibition explore themes of borrowing, remixing and the sampling of works of art created by other artists. Ongoing till May 10: Anna Jermolaewa – Good Times, Bad Times. The first Polish solo exhibition of this Austrian artist focuses on the basic conditions necessary for human existence. Ongoing till May 31: Tamy Ben-Tor & Miki Carmi – Young Emerging Artists Eating & Fucking. This exhibition aims to answer the question, “can this real life coupe also work as an artistic duo?”
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Stadion Narodowy
3
6
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9
7
8 1 10
10 9 Żaryna
Kulskiego
Chodk iewicza
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Biały K amień
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LOOKING BACK
Remember When?
W
alking into one of Poland’s super-new-fangled, shimmering museums with their ‘please touch the exhibits’ attitude offers the strange feeling of walking into the future, even though we are supposed to be walking into the past. However, those of us who have been round these parts for a while will know that a visit to a museum back in the 1990s was a different experience. A visit had three elements. The first was the funny slippers you had to wear over your shoes; obviously the best bit for many people. The pleasure was multi-layered – first came the surprise of being handed your pair of comic pantofles, then followed the mirth at seeing your companions wearing theirs. Finally came the ultimate satisfaction of doing a little skid on the parquet out of sight of the attendant. Which brings us to the second element – the museum attendant, often a woman with bright orange dyed hair and heavy amber jewellery, who would glare at you upon entering the room where she was sleeping with undisguised hostility for simply having the temerity to turn up that day. The third element was the bizarre surprise. On a visit to a museum in Kłodzko (well worth the six-hour trip from Warsaw for their collection of cuckoo clocks), the aging gentlemen who sold me my entrance ticket followed me round turning on the light in each subsequent room I entered and turning off the light in the room I had just left. I decided not to visit the toilet in case he wanted to stand
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over me dispensing the paper. Some experiences could be heart-warming. After ending a tour of the post office museum in Wrocław, I was muscled into an ante-room by a group of elderly heavies who turned out to be the local stamp-collecting mob. Their spontaneous hospitality was touching and I regret that I didn’t have anything interesting to tell them about the philately scene in Britain. Of course, many museums found themselves in financial difficulties in the 1990s as the turbulence of the transformation meant many people were busy dealing with more pressing matters rather than visiting a museum, and in the new reality the dusty exhibition rooms of countless regional museums were simply left to die. The socialist period had been pretty good for the museum sector as the authorities placed great importance on culture and the development of regional and national identity in line with socialist values. Museums were an important part of this. This created is a huge wealth of museums from before and after the transformation, from the grand heights of the Polish National Museum with its branches in major cities all the way down to charming niche museums covering curious and often surprising subjects. Who wouldn’t like to pay a visit to the Christmas Tree Bauble Museum in Nowy Dąb, or the Axe Museum in Orzechówka? No claims, however, can be made about whether the Insurance Museum in Krakow is worth a look.
PHOTOGRAPH PAP
Sightseeing wasn’t always easy. The Insider turns back the clock to a time when museum visits posed the ultimate challenge… BY STUART DOWELL
Always new something Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl Door selection Dress code: casual elegant