listings / restaurants L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon-Fri 12:3015:30, 18:30-22:00; Sat 13:00-15:30, 18:30-22:30, eterrible.pl The menu doesn’t faff about – it is strong, silent and absent of adjectives: dishes are surmised using one word, in some cases two, imparting an element of suspense to the ordering process. The five course tasting menu (zł. 170) is the work of chef Michał Bryś, and on our visit was an immense triumph the highlight of which was a course composed entirely of tomatoes. This place is going to be huge. $$$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $ NatuRest & Wine Chłodna 2/18, tel. 506 511 146, open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00 -22:00 The upcoming status of Chłodna street is spoiled somewhat by Natu – we were served guacamole that was nearly black from oxidation, ice cold corn-on-the-cob and a stale tortilla. The old adage – ‘never trust a restaurant with a four letter name, unless its
Noma’ – is particularly true here. $$
Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.nolita. pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience. Some of the taste and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). Privately, many have been left bewildered by the lack of Michelin star. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Fine Dining” Norma (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl Diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs wrapped around the rafters. But what of the menu? That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His food is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. The kaszanka is deep and rich but the biggest success is the
cod with apple puree: rolling in strong, unique flavors, it’s completely astonishing. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$
Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:0023:00, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00, www.passepartout.pl Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook
“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”
www.warsawinsider.pl
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