Warsaw Insider September 2014 #217

Local Apples Bite Back

Inside Legia Warszawa

page 7

Warsaw

page 20

Travel: Rzeszów page 24

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BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT JIMMY CHOO KENZO MONCLER GAMME ROUGE KENZO MONCLER GAMME RALPH LAUREN ROUGE SALVATORERALPH FERRAGAMO LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

SEPTEMBER 2014 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

16 Architecture

Contributors: Piers Bright Gill Boelman-Burrows Filip Dutkiewicz Karolina Kalinowska Vedika Luthra Michał Miszkurka Agnes Monod-Gayraud Ed Wight

Helmut Jahn’s Cosmopolitan tower has already won adulation aplenty, but what’s it like all the way up the top?

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

18 Horse Racing

Ed Wight hobnobs with high society to bring you the full lowdown on the 70th Warsaw Derby.

20 Street Scout

Oleandrów has climbed out of Zbawiciela’s shadow and is this summer’s place to see and be spotted…

I’m sat in a dark, pokey office finishing up for the day. I’m the only one left and there’s nothing in the air apart from that suffocating stillness of a sweaty Polish summer. And then it happens: air raid sirens. Not just one, but thousands of the buggers. Being new to Poland, I was something of a wide-eyed innocent. My first instinct was that something nuclear had gone boom and we were under attack. Only when I looked out of the window did my panic ease off. People weren’t running around like strangled chickens, rather they were standing still. Reverentially so. Of course, as I learnt later, this was W-Hour, the local way of marking the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Profoundly moving, this moment on August 1 tingles the spine each and every time. Even outsiders comment on its powerful impact; you feel a connection to the city, an understanding of it. And it reminds you of what a wonderful Warsaw it is that we live in

LISTINGS 24 Travel

Oh lord. A trip to Świebodzin county reveals the world’s biggest Jesus and a region of surprises.

2

Restaurants 38 Cafes & Wine Bars 67 Nightlife 72 Shopping 80 Family 86 Health & Beauty 91 In the City 95

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2014

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Running 10 Spotlight 12 Profile 14

INBACK

Classifieds 101 Map 102 Bar Spy 104

REVIEWS

Restaurants Tapas Gastrobar 32 NATU Wine & Rest 32 Tamka 36

Key Account Manager Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover And they’re off! The Insider’s day at the races (see p. 18) is our cover artist’s inspiration for this issue. Go on boy!

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP KEVIN DEMARIA (2) ED WIGHT (2)

I remember that first Polish summer. August 1, 2001, and

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO

BABY DIOR DOLCE&GABBANA KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

COMEDY

design sector.

Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

CONCERT

Improv Sunday’s

For info see: improv.pl

CONCERT

Chopin in Łazienki Every Sun, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykola The free open-air concerts held by the Chopin Monument in Łazienki Park are a Warsaw summer staple. Attracting hundreds of people, and often more, the concerts feature some of Poland’s top pianists playing Chopin’s best known works. Runs till the end of September.

For info see: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

FILM

Filmowa Stolica

Editor’s Pick Al Pacino Now you too can say you’ve been up close with Scarface. In Warsaw as part of a global tour, the acclaimed ‘An Evening With Al Pacino’ promises to be an extraordinary night…

Tickets from zł. 500 @ ebilet.pl

Throughout Sept @ various locations A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them the Copernicus Center, the roof garden of the University Library and a number of parks. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations.

For more info, check: facebook.com/filmowastolica

SPORT

Windsurfing 5-6 Sept @ National Stadium Giant fans and a temporary pool will see the pitch at the National Stadium transformed into a windsurfing arena – the largest ever used for an indoor event. Expected to attract an audience of 40,000, the event will feature slalom, freestyle and jump surfing.

Tickets @ eventim.pl

Festival

Warsaw Design Festival 5-9 Sept @ Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 Workshops, meetings, exhibitions and stalls are to be expected at the latest installment of the Warsaw Design Festival, a five day event that will showcase both upcoming and established talents working in the capital’s burgeoning

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2014

For info, see: wawadesign.eu/2014

Kid Ink

7 Sept, 19:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 L.A. rapper Kid Ink takes his name from the tattoos that adorn his body, and you’ll be able to check them in the flesh as he arrives in Poland to promote his second studio album, My Own Lane.

Tickets from zł. 99 @ eventim.pl

YOGA

7 Sept, 11:00 @ Osiedle Jazdów The first Warsaw yoga festival will feature open air sessions conducted by some of Poland’s top yogis! Admission is free.

For info, see: fundacjawybieramzdrowie.pl

RECREATION

Night Skating 11 & 25 Sept Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 15km route. Starting at 20:30, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate concludes at approximately 23:00.

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

CONCERT

GusGus

16 Sept @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Founded in 1995, this Icelandic electronic collective have, in the past, remixed artists such as Depeche Mode, Bjork, Moloko and Sigur Ros. Critically acclaimed for their eclectic style, they have experimented with techno, trip hop and house sounds.

Tickets from zł. 79 @ eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

International Festival of Contemporary Music 19-28 Sept @ various locations A variety of locations (including the Królikarnia Sculpture Park and an underground car park) will play host to a number of workshops, meetings, debates and performances that will involve all manner of weird and wonderful instruments: Soviet synthesizers, glass harmonicas, Andean aerophones, bagpipes, etc.

For info, see: warszawska-jesien.art.pl

EVENT

Verva Street Racing 20 Sept @ National Stadium Poland’s premier motor event will include stunt shows, monster trucks, rally races, a vintage car parade, destruction derby and, even, a performance by the legendary Jamiroquai.

Tickets from zł. 109 @ vervastreetracing.pl

CULTURE

An Evening With Al Pacino 22 Sept, 19:30 @ Teatr Wielki You read it right. Join screen legend Al Pacino as he shares anecdotes about his life and work. The evening will also include a Q&A session with members of the audience. Tickets from zł. 500 @ ebilet.pl

CONCERT

I Am Giant 22 Sept, 19:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A This London-based New Zealand rock act are best known for their associations with extreme sports, and have provided the soundtrack to numerous surfing vids.

Tracks from their 2014 album, Science & Survival, are expected to feature heavily during their Warsaw appearance.

Tickets from zł. 55 @ eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

Cross Culture Festival 24-28 Sept @ various locations The tenth edition of this annual festival

will promote cultural and musical diversity, and will feature workshops and debates as well as concerts from SU:M (South Korea), Mahmoud Ahmed (Ethiopia), Ze Luis (Cape Verde), Rastak (Iran), Barbatuques (Iran) and Mascarimiri (Italy).

For info, see: festival.warszawa.pl

CONCERT

Jessie Warsaw 25 Sept @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Lauded by Clash as “the missing link between Adele, SBTRKT and Sade”, this London songstress peaked at No. 5 in the British charts with her debut album Devotion. Her second album, Tough Love, is slated for release in October and includes collaborations with Ed Sheeran and Kid Harpoon.

Tickets from zł. 99 @ eventim.pl

EXHIBITION

Behind the Appearances 26 Sept to 30 Nov @ Spectra Art Space | Starak Family Foundation, ul.

Bobrowiecka 6 The first comprehensive exhibition of works by Vera Lehndorff /Holger Trülzsch. The exhibition includes three series of works: the Mimicry-DressArt series (1970-1973), the Oxidations series (1978), and the Prato/ Sirius series (1985-1988). A central theme to all of the works is the conflict between surfaces and materiality and the relationship between object and subject.

CONCERT

The Doors Alive 27 Sept, 19:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Regarded as the world’s best The Doors tribute band, The Doors Alive come to Poland to rock out classics like Riders on the Storm and Light My Fire, renditions of which have earned them a cult world following. Their concerts retain the intimate feel of the 70s rather than the grand scale of tribute bands.

Tickets from zł. 80 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Omnia

27 Sept, 19:00 @ Stodola, ul. Batorego 10 You wanted weird? Omnia play what they describe as Neo-Celtic Pagan Folk, and have been known to sing in Hindi, Swedish, Latin, Breton and Finnish.

Their sound incorporates a panoply of instruments, among them the bagpipes, hurdy gurdy, harp and didgeridoo.

Tickets from zł. 60 @ eventim.pl

SPORT

Warsaw Marathon 28 Sept, 9:00 @ Most Poniatowskiego The 36th edition of the Warsaw Marathon follows a 42 kilometer route that takes in many of the city’s highlights before concluding at the National Stadium. The run is expected to draw over 8,500 participants.

For info, see: pzumaratonwarszawski.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town…

CORE STATS

316

Million Euros

The value of Polish fruit & veg sold last year to Russia

10

Million liters

Estimated Polish cider production this year

4

Million Euros

Budget given to Poland by the European Commission to promote their apples in China and India

2

Million liters

Polish cider production in 2012 NATIONAL

Core Blimey!

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

It started on Twitter with business journalist Grzegorz Nawacki posting a selfie of himself eating an apple. He added the hashtag #jedzjablka – eat apples – and before long celebrities, politicians, at least two embassies, and pretty much the rest of the country were at it.

Even the Lithuanian ambassador to Sweden got involved, tweeting a photo of Lithuanians eating Polish apples. Now apple-selfies have gone viral, apple pies are an internet meme and cider has seen a massive boost in sales. The craze follows Moscow’s ban on importing fruit & veg, a move widely seen as being in retaliation for the West’s sanctions over Ukraine.

But despite the impending GDP deficit, Poles remain defiant with Warsaw now looking at longer term solutions by tapping into other markets, including the US, where the Polish ambassador Ryszard Schnepf has dubbed the apples ‘Freedom Apples’, in an attempt to persuade Americans they have a patriotic duty to eat them. (EW)

“Russia doesn’t want our apples?

Then let’s make jam and booze” QUOTE Eccentric millionaire MP JANUSZ PALIKOT sums up the nation’s mood

700,000 Apples

Exported to Russia last year

60,000 Apple farmers

In Poland. It’s the largest exporter in the world

90 Per cent

Apples account for 90% of fruit & veg exported to Russia

13.5 Kilos

The average number of apples eaten by Poles last year

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

News

BEER

Two of a Kind

Cult brewery AleBrowar have been left fuming by the Żabka chain after the high street giant started selling Polski Chmiel – an inferior beer with a near identical design to AleBrowar’s Rowing Jack. It’s not the first time Żabka have been accused of plagiarism; in 2012 Browar Czarnków took legal action after noticing striking similarities between their Noteckie beer and Żabka’s Wyborne brand. The case was settled out of court with Żabka withdrawing stocks of Wyborne from their shelves.

CITY

It’s All Over Now The Sezam department store closed its doors for a final time on August 10th. Completed

in 1969, the complex was synonymous with communism and all it entailed – “you’d even queue for the escalator,” recalled one former customer. Now it’s due to be demolished, with a new office and commercial development filling the void. Goodbye, old friend!

RELIGION

Talk of the Devil

A Polish priest made international news after claiming he was receiving texts from the devil. Father Marjan Rajchel says he started to receive the messages following a bumbled exorcism in Jarosław. “You won’t last long,” read one, “You cannot save yourself, idiot,” warned another. The priest claims the texts were sent by Satan, and that this wasn’t the first time that the shady bugger has utilized technology.

WARSAW RISING

Out of the Box

Polish toy manufacturer Cobi faced criticism after releasing a set of building blocks themed on the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Features of their Barykada set include figures of grinning, gun-toting Nazis. Traditionalists and veterans have been outraged, and have accused the company of making light of one of the darkest chapters in Warsaw’s history.

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inFront

City Favorites

Ola Dojnikowska

When Ola opened Bułkę przes Bibułkę the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda 3, and it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere; the feeling you can just swing by for a chat. So we did, to find Ola’s top spots about town.

I love the atmosphere of Relaks, but it’s the coffee that the place is really about. There’s so many coffee stops in Warsaw now, but these are the real experts!

Gringo Bar is great – even the soda is from Mexico. The nachos are brilliant: there’s no worries they’re selling you something that’s been sitting around for a week, the freshness is clear.

I don’t go in for fine dining much, but I really liked La Rotisserie. I have to go Atelier Amaro though. I met Wojciech Amaro during ‘Cook it Raw’ and will never forget asking him what he’d cooked earlier for the world’s greatest chef. He was talking for 45 minutes! I’ve never seen anyone more passionate about cooking in my life.

FROM LEFT As good as Naples, Mąka i Woda; spicy bites at Gringo bar; and the coffee king, Relaks.

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PHOTO OF MĄKA I WODA BY PIOTR TUORA

The pizza in Mąka i Woda reminds me of Naples. They don’t use that many ingredients but the ones they do are so high in quality.

Even the oven was imported from Naples!

online supermarket

grocery shopping made easy 20 PLN

inFront

Spotlight Joanna Pawełczak of Delikatesy Esencja shares the recipe for her restaurant’s secret weapon…

The Bite Back

Unfazed by Russia’s ban on Polish apples, the people of Warsaw are fighting back, or more pertinently, biting back.

A

tangled history of oppression and injustice has left its mark on the Polish psyche. Having suffered the spikier end of tyranny and torment Poles have, over the centuries, developed an indomitable inner spirit that refuses to be cowed. So news that Russia, in what some have called a callow fit of pique, has banned the import of Polish apples has been met with defiance. Resistance has replaced bewilderment; battle lines have been formed. But these are not the sort of battle lines you’re familiar with. They’re lines to the local grocer. Galvanized by the #jedzjablka campaign unwittingly unleashed by journalist Grzegorz Nawacki, Poles have been clamoring to show their patriotism by chomping into as many apples as they can.

In Warsaw, restaurants and bars have picked up on the public mood, rushing to place apples prominently in their offer. Few have shown more appetite for the fight than Restauracja 99, who’ve responded to apple-gate by releasing a separate, apple-specific menu. Others, too, have joined the crusade: in Solec 44 apples now appear with frequent regularity on the menu, Delikatesy Esencja have a best-selling apple soup, Słoik have adopted a slew of apple-based dishes, while Plan B have done their bit by selling freshly-pressed apple juice outside their door. In the pubs, domestic cider sales have soared. But this is just the beginning.

With Polish apple-growing season reaching its peak in September, visitors can expect to be seeing a lot more of the fruit on menus and tables.

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Cream of apples with thyme Depending on the apples you choose, cream of apples will be sweet or sweet and sour. It is best seasoned with herbs and feta. Milk can be substituted with water.

Serves 6 4.5 kilos of apples 4 table spoons of butter 0.5 liter of milk whole twigs of thyme Peel and cut the apples in chunks, then lightly sauté with butter in the same pot you are going to use to cook the soup.

Add water up to 1/3 of the depth of the pot. Cover the pot and simmer until the apples fall apart. Add milk and keep heating until it is warmed through, but do not boil. Blend and season with salt and pepper. If the soup is too thick add milk (or water). Dress with thyme and feta.

inFront

Buy Curious?

APARTMENT

Marszałkowska 28 From the outside, Marszałkowska 28 is so typical of the area: an oppressive statement of socialist aesthetics.

Built in the 1950s as part of the MDM development, one element separates it from its immediate neighbors: a corner tower nested on top, rising in the sky like a glass observatory.

It’s immediately compelling. What madness is this? What lies up there?

You imagine a Dr. Emmett Brown character, surrounded by telescopes, beakers and Bunsen burners.

In actuality, the mad scientist factor is zero: it’s a luxury flat. This hasn’t always been the case. Locals claim that for a time it was an artist’s atelier, gifted to the painter by the state as his reward for a portrait of Stalin. Then, for a while – at the height of the Cold War – it was used as a military observation point (indeed, for much of the PRL era the building was occupied by high ranking officers), before falling into disrepair.

Purchased ten years ago by an investment fund manager, it was on his instruction a full renovation was ordered – and the results have been spectacular. Set over three floors, the 170 sq/m floor plan incorporates a log fire, stretches of glass flooring and spiraling metal staircases. It is a warren of nooks and crannies, though the very nature of the design allows for light to stream in. But it is the top floor terrace – all 60 meters of it – that is the coup de grace. Offering 360 degree views, it is breathtaking: a bastion of peace amid the inner city clamor. And now, the keys are all yours – for a starting price of zł. 4 million.

For details, check: apartamentwieza.pl

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2014

Restauracja Dom Polski

ul. Francuska 11 03-906 Warszawa Tel. 22Â 616 2488 / 22Â 616 2432 www.restauracjadompolski.pl restauracjadompolski@wp.pl

THE STREETS

Raising the Bar

In the age of repeats and replicas, the Insider looks back at the pioneers who changed their streets and raised the bar for all to follow…

Chłodna 25

Beirut

Charlotte

Chłodna is a microcosm of Warsaw: green and grey, brutal and beautiful. But before the good times began, when this street was just a place to get spare wheels and buckets, Chłodna 25 was there. It became the original hipster haunt. The twits have now gone, but it retains its arty mood. The street has come on a long way, but it’d be nothing without this spot.

Sure there were other bars on Poznańska before Beirut happened along, but it was this place that changed the game. All of a sudden, Poznańska was on the map; everyone was talking about it, everyone wanting to be part of it. Fun, international and up for a party, Beirut’s crowd has spilled outside and multiplied – and so has the number of neighboring bars. Is there really a more exciting street in Wa-wa?

Charlotte divides opinion in a way no other place in Warsaw does – ‘great atmosphere,’ say some, ‘full of the bloody colored trousers brigade,’ curse others. Plan B may have been on Zbawiciela first, but it was Charlotte that punched it into the public eye. Rate it or hate it, it’s transformed Zbawiciela with its continental spirit. You sometimes question if it’s Warsaw you’re in.

Chłodna 25, klubchlodna.pl

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Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Pl. Zbawiciela, bistrocharlotte.com

THE STREETS

Pardon, To Tu

Paparazzi

Między Nami

Before PTT came along live music in Warsaw meant listening to failed hotel rock bands. For the most part, it still does. But Pardon, To Tu have shown there is another way: experimental, international names, artisan beer, and a cool atmosphere that’s never been too hipster. Enjoy it while you can: next year it’ll be knocked down to make way for a skyscraper.

Mazowiecka at the start of the millennium was grim: blackened buildings with bullet holes and war acne, a shady peep show and several empty shop fronts.

You would never have guessed what it would later become. It was Paparazzi that jump-started the street, turning it into the rich and pretty party zone everyone now knows. But it also did more: Warsaw’s cocktail culture was born here!

You can’t accuse Między Nami of changing Bracka because, Haka aside, the line-up is pretty routine.

But Między Nami’s influence goes beyond Bracka.

Opened 18 years ago its edgy style and cosmopolitan ambience became the blueprint for Warsaw cafes. And time has not wearied it. It retains a faithful following of old hands that’s balanced by a healthy injection of newer recruits to the fan club.

Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.blogspot. com

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Mazowiecka 12, paparazzi.com.pl

Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com

FOOTBALL LEGIA WARSZAWA

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The Beautiful GAME

The Insider gets the VIP treatment at Legia, and finds a world removed from the football match stereotype...

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

T

he air is cool, crisp and heavily scented. Collecting an analytical sample would, at a guess, reveal over a hundred different colognes. The clink of wine glasses is constant and the gentle hum of chatter swirls overhead. And there is food. Huge gleaming platters supplied by the Belvedere restaurant. As I join the line to fill my plate a glamorous blonde with a big hat and even bigger boobs sweeps past. Heads turn. Men grin.

In the distance, the turf glows a brilliant shade of emerald green. But, as unlikely as it sounds, I am not hobnobbing at the polo, I am at the football.

Granted, I am not alongside the typical football crowd – for starters, the only sweaty bloke that reeks of booze is me. The men here, in Legia’s Gold members lounge, are all fresh pastel shirts, fat glinting watches and slicked back hair.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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FOOTBALL LEGIA WARSZAWA

The ladies, meanwhile, could be categorized as catwalk: sky high heels and bags stamped with Italian motifs. In short, this is not the Legia Warszawa I remember.

Just what is the Legia I remember? Hmmm. It would have been 2003, with the match day experience defined that afternoon by whirring helicopters and the grunt of thugs: all shaved heads and amphetamine anger. As for the game, I dimly recall the referee refusing to leave the center circle.

For much of the match, neither did the players. They looked too hungover to move either far or fast. From a footballing perspective, this was a personal low.

But Polish football finds itself in the midst of a renaissance. Buoyed by the success of Euro 2012, interest in the domestic game has rarely been higher. True, age old problems continue to blight the sport, among them boardroom mismanagement, outright crookery and hooliganism. And yes, type Legia into YouTube and you’re as likely to find footage of fans running around with improvised cudgels as you are any goals. Yet Legia have done more than most to drag the Polish game into the 21st century.

Their ground, the brutally titled Pepsi Arena, is ample proof of this regeneration. Home since 1930, it’s undergone a reconstruction – completed in 2011 – that has seen it fully remodeled as a two-tier, wraparound stadium. Holding 31,000, it is a shining example of the new face of Polish football and that’s especially true of the Gold and Silver sections. With our ‘access nearly all areas’ accreditation collected, it’s to the Gold lounge we head.

In spite of the riches that lie ahead, we nearly go no further – the hostess stood at the door is pristine in her beauty. Our legs have turned to jelly and we pause, staring

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2014

in wonderment at this impossible specimen. But there’s a job to do, and that involves mingling inside the lounge.

People pay up to zł. 15,000 per season for the privilege, and it soon becomes apparent why. Entering, there is the convivial air of a Sheraton Sunday brunch: there is free flow beer, an extravagant buffet and a chattery buzz hanging in the air.

This though is better than brunch. It’s better than brunch because it comes with the added bonus of football. As kickoff draws closer, the atmosphere and anticipation ratchets up a notch until we stream en masse to the stands below.

That’s when it happens. For the last ten years Legia fans have adopted Sen o Warszawie as their anthem, and it is sung with gusto before every kick-off. As we file down the gangway the opening chords to Czeslaw Niemen’s hymn to Warsaw ring out from the tannoy. The loudspeakers are immediately drowned out as men, women and children rise as one to raucously recite Niemen’s epic ode. It is thrilling; a moment of pure electricity.

F

ounded in 1916 by soldiers serving on the Eastern Front, Legia are considered one of the grande dames of Polish football, with ten league championships and a record sixteen Polish Cups to their name. The season has started brightly, and it looks a dead cert already that Legia will challenge for a third consecutive title. But all is not well.

Tonight, as Legia take to the pitch against Górnik Łęczna, players and fans alike are still reeling from the news that their side has been turfed out of the Champions League for fielding a suspended player.

It’s a course of events that has lent added gravitas to this match. What should have been an insignificant early sea-

“ the Legia faithful are relentless in their backing, and the wall of noise sends tingles down the spine”

son game has an edge and a needle to it. The atmosphere is red hot and defiant and the crowd is seething with injustice. The players, meanwhile, look visibly distracted. The first half passes with little in the way of incident. Full of huff and puff but shy on both shots and endeavor, we instead pass the time watching Legia’s hardcore behind the goal.

There are swathes of empty seats all around, but the ground is rocking – the Legia faithful are relentless in their backing of the team, and the wall of noise sends tingles down the spine. Even the photographer, a sworn footballphobe, is enthralled by it all. “Amazing,” he shouts over the din, “bloody amazing.”

With the first half wrapped up we retreat to the lounge, tanking back beers and raiding the buffet. As the football resumes, the lounge is still packed – but not for long. Legia roar out of the traps scoring a goal in the opening few minutes. A second soon follows. The crowd is going bananas.

We are as well. Górnik’s bewildered side, organized and stoic in the first half, have had a meltdown. They chase shadows, flap about and, on the hour mark, find themselves reduced to ten men after a clumsy foul in the box by Tomislav Bozic. The resulting penalty makes it 3-0 and the match is all but sealed.

Sensing my chance, I make a beeline back to the Gold lounge to take advantage of the lack of queues. I raid the sausage station and settle back to enjoy the rest of the game from behind a glass screen. But trouble is brewing.

My pass gives me access to the Gold club but, apparently, not to its food. As I settle down in an empty dining room I am approached by a gruff man with a sumptuous moustache. Judging by his appearance he could be a lion tamer,

an armed robber, a wrestler or a security guard. It turns out he’s the latter, and he’s not happy that I’ve just helped myself to the sausages. “You should leave,” he instructs, making it clear that should I refuse he might set that lion on me.

Chastised, and escorted from the Gold section, my mood doesn’t suffer. Legia are rampant, and goals four and five are duly notched up. To their credit, Górnik’s clutch of fans haven’t let this humping dampen their spirits and they bounce around swirling their shirts overhead. Legia’s fans respond by raising the volume still further. My ears are throbbing. If this is what happens against Górnik Łęczna, what’s this place like for a big game? Totally nuts, I guess.

The fulltime whistle sounds, and we head down to the next stage of the night – the press conference. I’ve always imagined the post-match Q&A to be a shouty scrum of frantic questions and general pandemonium. It’s actually the opposite with Legia’s manager, Norwegian Henning Berg, pondering questions with thought and grace. The photographer urges me to ask one of my own, but conscious of the suspicion our presence has stirred amongst the press pack regulars my nerve goes. Instead, we slink back to the hospitality area for further refreshment.

As a traditionalist, I’m at odds with the whole concept of corporate entertainment at football. But tonight has been a blast. We have been royally entertained both on and off the pitch, and as we lark around the now empty stands we are like kids, breathless with excitement. One time local football was characterized by disintegrating stadiums, grim football and psychopath fans. Not anymore. Welcome to Legia, 2014. www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL RZESZÓW

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Into the Deep

The Insider journeys into the depths of the South East of Poland, and uncovers a bright, shining star: Rzeszów…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL RZESZÓW

P

oland’s a big place. Not on the map it isn’t, but on the train it sure feels it. You want to go to Rzeszów? That’s seven and a half hours. Seven and a half hours of bump and bounce and grinding boredom. Still want to go to Rzeszów? Maybe not then. Now though, there is another way.

Flying with LOT takes half an hour, less time than it takes to get to Chopin Airport in some instances. And it’s cheap. Booked in advance the journey is little more than zł. 150.

It’s interesting, as well. The plane is full of mysterious people.

An enigmatic blonde with an elaborate dragon inked on her back glides down the aisle and purses her lips as if to suggest, “I’ll see you on the other side.” In front of me an American with a crew-cut is reading about mind control methods. My luck is out though, and I spend the flight sat next to a nervous wreck who spends his time praying between twitches. Does he know something about this flight that I don’t? If he does, then his information is erroneous for the journey is seamless. I’ve not even gone ten pages into my book before we’re preparing to land.

I expect the airport to be a basic affair, the kind of place where security awaits arrivals by sucking on straw while sat on bales of hay. But the airport is modern and glints in the July heat.

Travelers arriving from destinations like Frankfurt, Barcelona and some Irish city the airport pamphlet calls Bublin will have seen worse. The taxi journey, meanwhile, is a swift 20 minute affair. Before we know it, we’re already in town, passing a phallic 1970s monument commemorating the revolutionary uprisings the locals have fought in. “We call it The Big Clitoris,” smirks our driver. Thirty-eight meters tall, this concrete vulva is a startling introduction to the town we’ve rolled into.

We putter to a halt up a narrow, cobbled alley. For our first night we are booked into the Schanel Residence (schanelresidence.com), a privately run boutique hotel with a 19th century style that’s both feminine and French. On the bedside table is an elegantly penned Victor Hugo quote. Refreshed, we go exploring. The hotel is around the corner from the Rynek, a long, oblong town ‘square’ whose crowning point is the town hall.

Originally built in 1591, but remodeled several times since, it’s a fairytale construction – so sweet you could eat it with a spoon.

You could say that for the Rynek, as well, but you probably won’t.

In fact, you’re lucky to see it. In a sheer stroke of lunacy the town Gods’ have left the bars to run riot, and instead of a magnificent view of mercantile tenements one is left bewildered by a phalanx of parasols and restaurant umbrellas. We console ourselves with the knowledge there’ll be no shortage of pubs.

It’s already too late to do anything of note, so checking out the hostelries becomes our primary objective. There are millions of them, and many of them are good. In Ceska Hospoda we drink foamy Czech brews amid Karol Gott album sleeves. In their neighbor next door, we take our pick from Poland’s top craft breweries. It’s Thursday night, but in buzzing Rzeszów the weekend has started.

The weekend feeling doesn’t fade with dawn the next day. We wake to find a Rynek that’s empty bar a solitary delivery man clunking beer barrels about. No-one is out and it feels so provincial. Suiting the quiet mood lies a small memorial park behind the Schanel honoring those deported to the camps during the war. Even the tramps who have gathered on the lawn seem to appreciate its importance, and they talk in subdued whispers barely audible over the pigeons. The two former synagogues beyond are further reminders of the trauma Rzeszów suffered.

Fourteen thousand Jews (among them Natalie Portman’s ancestral family) lived here before the war – one third of the town’s population – yet fewer than 100 survived to see its end.

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Our Friday morning gloom lifts though with the sight of the Museum of Bedtime Stories. Housed in a theater, it’s a hilarious traipse through the world of Polish animation. Vaguely nonsensical and completely irrelevant to outsiders, it’s a joy nonetheless. We peruse the collection – a giant cuddly Krecik (a friendly Czech mole), Moomin posters and other cheery icons of PRL youth.

But the day takes an unexpected twist. As we lug our bags to the next hotel, I receive an unwelcome phone call – a freelance assignment that can’t be postponed. There goes my afternoon down the pan. The news is not entirely negative, however.

Our new lodgings in the Bristol Hotel (bristol-rzeszow.pl) are fantastic: high modernity fused with a regional style – colorful peasant patterns on the cushions and ceramics, next to cool little touches like the semi-private courtyard outside my room.

Usually, when I travel, there’s no time to enjoy the hotel. This time, there’s plenty.

“ Our Friday morning gloom lifts though with the sight of the Museum of Bedtime Stories” It’s among the best hotels I’ve been in, a point confirmed when there’s a knock on my door – my Lord, if it isn’t a bag of beer from the in-house microbrewery. It’s a goodwill gift to apologize for my room not being ready on-time, and it’s gratefully received.

Work has never passed so pleasantly. With my deadline hit I arrange to meet the photographer in the sushi restaurant downstairs. All this time he’s been left to his own devices, and this is a bad thing. The man is plastered.

Worse, he’s had an accident of sorts. His belt has broken while serving as a safety rope during a cigarette smoked whilst ‘hanging from the window’. Resourcefully, he’s made a DIY replacement. “Look at this,” he announces. Lifting his shirt for Joe Public to see, he reveals a computer cable entwined around his trousers. The guy next to us drops his chopsticks at the sight.

With time to make up we hit Rzeszów’s sights at a canter. First, around its award-winning underground route, a subterranean trail of 369 meters. Taking in cellars dating from the 14th to 18th century, the labyrinthine passages take us past brickwork marked with the fingerprints of medieval craftsmen, and scorched-looking walls from the Great Fire of 1842.

Outside again, we wander the main high street, 3 Maja, which in itself is not short on curios: for example, a life size statue of musican Tadeusz Nalepa in mid-stride. Elegance is provided by the smart whitewashed churches that line the street, a sight demeaned slightly by the kebab shops that flank them in poisonous, neon clusters.

But the reason for our ramble soon becomes apparent: the Lubomirski Palace and the nearby Lubomirski Castle. Designed for the local powerbrokers (you’ve guessed it, the Lubomirski family), the castle nearly rivals Wawel. Used by the Nazis as a prison, it astonishingly served a custodial function up until 1981.

The moated bastion is fearsome in scope, but already closed for the day. So too the baroque Palace, which is a relief of sorts – the truth is we are too exhausted to investigate either. It’s not a great loss though, because we know there’ll be a next time – after all, we are only 30 minutes away.

Clockwise from above: The Museum of Bedtime Stories captures the imagination; remembering wartime Rzeszów; Poland’s kebab capital gets ready for trade; jolly times at the Bristol’s sushi bar

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 36 CAFES & WINE BARS 67 NIGHTLIFE 72 SHOPPING 80 FAMILY 86 HEALTH & BEAUTY 91 IN THE CITY 95

In Shopping Fashion

A Łódź-based design duo have taken Warsaw by storm with their quirky spin on Polish fashion…

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

p. 82

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS Kill Grill

A recipe for disaster at Bernie…

i

hear it all the time: “wow, I’d love to have your job.” It’s all based on the general assumption that all I do is eat in good restaurants.

This is a lie. Sometimes, you see, I eat in bad restaurants – restaurants like Bernie. To an extent, I knew what I was getting into.

Since opening, the public hasn’t gone easy on Bernie with rough online reviews being par the course. But any place with the words ‘beer’ and ‘grill’ in their title deserves a crack… And so I went.

Inside, the black and white design is actually pretty nice, only any semblance of mood is crushed by the clack of pool balls and TVs simultaneously relaying different channels. Then there’s the menu. It’s an atrocity – a single sheet of paper with about 50 dishes listed on it. It’s overwhelming. You gasp just looking at it. Worse, there’s not much you actually want – of the beers, there are three. They’re ordinary and mainstream. Same for the food: pierogi, pork chops, golonka, etc. Oh, and there’s a burger, because everyone in Warsaw is still eating burgers, right?

Depressed, I order a steak. It arrives in good time and with a pile of potatoes that’d take a weekend to eat. The boiled veg is tasteless but, I think to myself, at least I have the meat. No I don’t. I’ve asked for medium rare, yet what I’ve got goes beyond cremated. I send it back.

The waitress later returns apologizing – she looks petrified and embarrassed. She needn’t be, for it’s not her fault. But, I’m left asking, what kind of chef sends out a twenty-something girl to face the music on his behalf? Someone who doesn’t care or just someone without any balls?

Certainly, it wasn’t because they were too busy. And on this evidence, they don’t deserve to be, either. (AW)

Bernie Grill & Beer

Rynek Nowego Miasto 13/15, tel. 666 999 555, open 10:00-24:00, www.bernie.pl

e

veryone loves mojitos,” laughs Kamil, the barman, “after all, you’ve got to love a drink invented by pirates.” But this is not necessarily so – the last time I had this drink it nearly put me off for life: white sugar instead of brown and a bushel of mint jammed down my windpipe. Fortunately, these aren’t mistakes Kamil makes. Then again, you wouldn’t expect him to. He’s been part of the next door Leniviec crew for a while (“I chucked in my education to become a barman,” he confides, “it’s what I love doing”), and they’ve earned a name for cocktails of note.

Our Man In Havana

A visit to the ambassador reaps rewards…

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Making the transition from café to cosmopolitan drinkery, Leniviec have now gone the extra yard – by opening their mojito embassy next door. Set down a steep set of steps, it’s certainly not as stately as the name suggests. On the contrary, this compact basement has a cheerful, dive bar look that works surprisingly well: pics of revolutionaries and a couple of flags. That’s about it in the design stakes, but it doesn’t need much more. After all, drunk people tend to find other ways to occupy their time.

And yes, it’s likely you won’t be leaving walking in a straight line.

You can play safe, and stick to classic mojitos, or you could go for their contemporary updates: mango mojito, watermelon, etc. There’s more, as well: daiquiri, Cuba Libre, El Presidente and other Cuban drinks I can’t pronounce, let alone spell. In short, we have a winner. A bar that’s lighthearted in nature but serious about its product – that’s a lethal combination and a cocktail for success.

Leniviec Mojito Embassy

ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 7777, open 16:00-last guest, www.leniviec.pl

In Family: Muppetshop

Having a baby has never been easier since the Muppets came to town..

p. 88

Vintage denim at Safripsti

www.warsawinsider.pl

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A NEW DAWN? “It needs a barbed wire fence,” spits my friend. We’re sat on Pl. Zbawiciela, though my colleague isn’t talking about the rainbow installation that has just about survived its umpteenth drunken torching, but the area itself.

“We need to keep these bloody hipsters in one place,” he says by way of explanation.

But such a gesture would be largely redundant. Hipsterdom has moved on, not necessarily moved out, but certainly moved on. We are in Rumburak, sat amongst its shaded colonnades. They are pristine, and the Morrissey quote which once adorned one of the pillars has now vanished. The people, too, are normal: I don’t see any random tattoos of squirrels or any excessive facial hair. The atmosphere is both well-heeled and welcome.

A smart waiter brings me an ice cold La Trappe Blonde, and I make my order: beef cheeks cooked sous vide and served with coffee puree and caramelized shallots and redcurrant. This is not the food of aimless youth, but rather high restaurant standard. You get the sense of a well-oiled operation. But more so, you get the sense of an area trying to grow up. Having become a near parody of itself, you feel Zbawiciela is gaining focus and evolving to the next stage. Rumburak certainly demonstrates as much.

Rumburak pl. Zbawiciela 5

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

True Tastes of Poland

W

hat a journey. Reaching Delicja Polska has meant near death. First, the tram I am on collides with a car – people scream and an infant flies past me.

Outside, surveying the wreckage, an ambulance that’s screaming its way to an unrelated scene comes within inches of flattening me. “Ever get the idea we should have stayed at home?” asks the photographer.

By the time we enter Delicja the pair of us are ruffled. We are also aware that bad things come in threes. There is an air of nervous hesitation. It’s exacerbated by the acute feeling that we’re rather under-dressed. The photographer looks like he’s off to the beach. Me, I’m just sweating buckets, with slicks of sweat staining my shirt. But the waiter is a true gentleman: he doesn’t bat an eyelid.

Based on our lack of sartorial style we’d be better off outside, hugging the fringes of their terrace with other passing foreigners who’ve underestimated the ferocity of the Polish summer. We choose, however, to sit inside. I need air-con and to hell with any dirty looks I might get from other guests.

Delicja have been around for years, but it’s only recently they’ve made the move to their new location. They have gone to pains to shed the stuffy reputation that more established Polish restaurants have, and you can tell by their interiors. There’s definitely an air of the classic (our dining room looks stately with its pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen), but none of this feels suffocating. There’s a gloss and a shine that feels somewhat modern.

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Yet it is the food that truly eases tensions. The photographer starts with sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. You know it’s good just by looking at it, a suspicion that’s confirmed after the first bite. For myself, there’s goats cheese salad on a bed of greens and a peach sauce – a wonderful mix of fresh, healthy flavors.

The only alarm bell is the sheer size – how will I find room for my main, I panic.

That’s easy if you order the seasoned roast beef. It is exquisite.

Everything on the plate works: from the creamy potato puree to the young leeks and carrot. The lamb of my opposite number also gains approval, with the only criticism being the chanterelles: “it’s a shame such a beautiful food has been so finely cut.”

Either way, we are in agreement that the restaurant is a success.

But a good meal deserves a good dessert. I’m pleased to report this is exactly what we receive next. My selection of seasonal sorbets is magnificent – nothing experimental by way of ingredients, but defined by its clear, refreshing taste and a riot of red. It’s my favorite sorbet of the summer, and that’s an undisputed fact.

The last word though is saved for the photographer’s meringue: it is demolished in a manner not seen before. Startled by our own greed, we exchange bashful smiles. We have dined well.

Very well indeed.

Delicja Polska ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open 12:00-23:00, delicjapolska.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A meal fit for kings on Warsaw’s Royal Route…

Hot on the Streets!

Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something.

Pictured: savory pork belly with white beans

www.warsawinsider.pl

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restaurants Beskidzki Wypas

KEY $ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013 New listings are in RED

WELL DONE: WARSAW’S TOP MEAT-ING POINTS BEFSZTYK (Puławska 176/178) The Prokopowicz family has been running this business since 1994 and many will argue this butchery is ‘top of the chops’, and here you’ll find three-week seasoned steaks, Merino lamb and even home delivery and internet ordering.

BESKIDZKI WYPAS (Polna 13, Polna Market) Still retaining close cooperation with Grzegorz, the original proprietor, Beskidzki Wypas has a strong cult following and counts many of Warsaw’s top restaurants among its clientele. Special requests are taken and encouraged.

CRAZY BUTCHER (Olkuska 12, Olkuska Bazaar) Grzegorz Kwapniewski, dubbed ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has upped sticks from the Polna Market to front this new enterprise. Lauded by chefs across the city, Grzegorz’s passion for beef is startling – don’t expect a quick buy!

LE DIPLOMATE (Ateńska 10) A halal butcher run by a former diplomat – hence the name – who shunned the rat race to follow his dream. The lamb is rated as amongst the best in town… if not the best.

MARTIN’S GOOD MEAT (Przejazd 4/7) A side project of Martin Gimenez Castro, the Argentinean that won the first edition of the Top Chef TV show. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, find Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, as well as excellent lamb and veal.

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african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools food shops french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin middle eastern polish scandinavian seafood steak houses whole foods

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

listings / restaurants La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Upstairs it’s a burger joint, one of Warsaw’s best. Downstairs, a modern American restaurant overseen by Jan Piecuch – former chef of Signature. Offering a different menu to the lunch-on-the-run options of upstairs, the monthly card is serious in its intent (there’s even a 5-course tasting menu), with well-marbled 21-day Hereford steak, dainty crab cakes and creative soups. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style

look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open

Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood

tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck.

Highly recommended. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 Not to be defeated by the closure of Sunanta, Bangkok chef Chanunkan Dunagkumma makes a quick return to this cookery lark with Naam Thai. While spices have been blanded down to fit the local palette, it’s been a promising start. Look for the roast duck soup – made according to a closely guarded secret family recipe. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above

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which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

listings / restaurants Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl A naff name and empty interiors are enough to deter some people – don’t join their ranks. Dishes here are uncomplicated but never cease to impress in that classic comfort food way. We swear by the orange chicken. Looking modern, minimal and a cut above the other budget Asian eateries, it’s a decent choice for an informal meal. $

U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

balkan & russian

british

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalwart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at

the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entrance on the burger circuit, the quality just doesn’t seem there anymore. The quantity is though, with BB entertaining eating competitions and serving Warsaw’s biggest burgers. $

Business Lunch 35 PLN

Monday to Friday from 12.00 PM to 4.00 PM Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne invites you for business lunch at 35 PLN. The price includes 3-course lunch set menu with non-limited mineral water.

A la carte dishes start from 18 PLN.

Book a Table

tel. 22 657 83 82 email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne open Monday-Saturday from 12.00 PM to 12.00 AM 11, Królewska street, 00-065 Warsaw www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 People come here in droves, lured by a menu finessed by American / Polish chef Alan Bohinski. Not here meat and ketchup explosive devices that detonate all over your trousers, instead find neatly formed burgers made with prime Polish beef that’s ground onsite. And while you won’t need them, it’s a nice touch that they come served with disposable gloves.

Delicious homemade sauces, ribs and wings add to the draw. $

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:30-1:00; Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kitchenrestaurant.pl Formerly Burger Kitchen, the recent name change indicates a conscious shift towards other cuisines. Not that they’ve forgotten

what it was that made them famous in the first place. Poland’s No. 1 burgers are still here, and widely acclaimed for their indestructible architecture, brioche buns, homemade ketchup and fine meat. $$

botanical soft drinks and an owner fiendishly obsessed by details and excellence. Not just burgers though, we’re told to expect steaks any moment soon to go alongside their burgers, ribs and Philly cheesesteak.

Taste Burger (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, open 12:00-22:00, tasteburger.pl Set in the pavilion bars behind Nowy Świat, Taste Burger use seasoned beef and pride themselves on their ‘honest’ ingredients. Their growing popularity is evidence of a philosophy that works.

cheap eats

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:0020:00 Competing for the title of Warsaw’s best burger, Ziggi takes no short cuts: the artisan bread is made especially for them, while the meat makes use of rib-eye meat. It’s a standout, and made better by its beer selection, Fentimans

Bistro Berlin (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 43, tel. 601 166 566, open Mon-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00 Authentic German wurst plus Belgian-style frites served inside a busy off-license. If eating amid people queuing for booze doesn’t flick your switch, then order from the street-side hatch.

Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, Giant portions of Belgian fries, waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $

Free beer with all burgers if you mention the ‘Insider’

TASTE Burger, ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, “Pawilony” #6, 15.00-2.00 TASTE Burger, ul. Przyczółkowa 400, 12.00-22.00

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listings / restaurants Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:0021:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www.jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread.

The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $ La Farine (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 793 929 210, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, lafarine.pl Traditional-style Lebanese flat breads cooked to perfection inside a narrow

little space which many passers-by confuse with a kebab shop – whatever you do, don’t do that yourself. Instead, think of it as Lebanese style pizza, only better. $ Kurczaki Oleandrów 8, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 If you like your birds spit-roasted then look no further than Kurczaki, a budget eatery whose specialty is chicken. Wait it out in sweltering temperatures before being rewarded by ace chicken cooked in varying sizes and styles: depending on the day, that could mean in beer or in Thai or Jamaican sauces. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart

Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch.

Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $ Wheel Meal www.facebook.com/wheelmealpl A Mexican food truck whose location varies with the day – check their Facebook. They’re worth tracing as the burritos are certainly a candidate for Warsaw’s best: and the sauces tingle as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cooking schools

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

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Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made

listings / restaurants courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ Bistro La Cocotte (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000, open 10:00-23:00. With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself.

Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plats du jour. Over two visits we’ve enjoyed both the beef carbanade and moules mariniere.

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your

choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00.

The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature in 2014, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoriawarsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

Nominated as Best New Restaurant 2012 by Gazeta Wyborcza and Warsaw Insider Named Best New Restaurant 2012

by Froblog

Seasonal Polish Cuisine Summer Garden Live Music on Fridays ul. Noakowskiego 16 tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini. php Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milefi dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl

A position on the doorstep of Warsaw’s financial quarter keeps business brisk, but while Bombaj Masala thrives on its reputation as an upmarket Indian restaurant, the food lets it down. We’ve repeatedly been disappointed by the food, which is unanimously decried as both over-priced and over-rated. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:002:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $

Authentic Portuguese cuisine with an excellent selection of wine ul. Merliniego 2 tel. 22 898 0925 restauracja@portucale.pl www.portucale.pl

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Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:00-22:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Ganesh (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 416 4162, open 12:00-24:00, www.ganesh.pl Vast and usually empty, the new Ganesh lacks the intimacy of the previous outpost on Wilcza and already looks a little scuffed and tired.

While other Indian giants such as Rain and Tandoor have reinvented and rebooted themselves Ganesh plug away with an old menu of standard (and occasionally sub-standard) dishes. With excellence assured in Tandoor round the corner, you wouldn’t bet on Ganesh filling their million vacant tables. $$ Himalaya Momo (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:30, There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger.

The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor oven, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one.

What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $

Chef José Costa Invites you!

listings / restaurants Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 A swirl of rumors surrounded Madras this summer, buoyed in part by an ad announcing the sale of the place. Rest assured it remains. Rated as the Insider’s No. 1 source for curry, while it looks cheap, cramped and claustrophobic Madras continues to earn its spurs for marvelous food. There are softer options available, but for a proper near death experience order the vindaloo: even your hair will feel like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www. mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have

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survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap and decent, though several rungs below the top curries in town – it’s an ok means to an end. $

Parivar’s apparent success. $

Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$

Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$

Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, while the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy.

For all of that, the biggest disappointment is

Rasoi (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, tel. 729 392 172, open 11:00-22:00. Throttled by roads and underpasses, while you may be able to see it from Złote Tarasy, good luck getting there in under ten minutes. But the location aside, there’s something very promising here.

Good, well-priced curries inside a charmingly tacky interior of colorful cushions and a collection of trinkets. $$

listings / restaurants Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 622 9410, open 12:00-23:00, www.saffronspices.pl Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab.

Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table.

Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international & fusion 4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.4czwarte. pl 4/Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial atmosphere and sharp interior. $$ 12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 795 373 815, open 9:00-23:00 Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater.

The menu is chalked on a board, and while the aglio e olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00,

www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public.

But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think.

You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asianinspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 Choose from a magical multilayered terrace of white-painted timber, cutesy flowerpots and colorful cushions or an interior decked out with wooden tables, patches of brickwork and potted herbs. Then there’s the blackboard menu, adjusted to the whims of the chef and the vagaries of the weather. There’s nothing smarty pants about it, rather it’s cooking you understand and appreciate – we loved it all, from the ginger and carrot soup to the main of grilled pork. $$

A modern, urban cocktail bar, which in addition to the full range of spirits and exotic composition drinks and cocktails will delight with its sophisticated sushi and delicious Thai cuisine.

An attractive location in the center, right by Rondo ONZ, makes us an easy platform for lunch meetings, business dinners and evening visits.

Our casual atmosphere, industrial design and professional, friendly service guarantees a great time. ul. Świętokrzyska 36 patera.com.pl tel. 535 333 123

Autorskie Bistro & Cafe ul. Św. Wincentego 95/3, tel. 531 510 460, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue-Sun 10:0022:00 You can tell Warsaw’s in the midst of a foodie revolution when even far flung Targówek has a restaurant of note. In charge of the kitchen is Piotr Wielgo, former head chef at the US Embassy, and his menu is a modern, international affair (with several Polish touches) that celebrates local, seasonal ingredients. The sirloin is a standout, and served inside a light, chic interior dotted with images of old Targówek. $$ Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when the great and the good of www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Warsaw go riverside to dine at this restaurant.

Set in three acres of manicured parkland, there’s something immensely satisfying about watching the sunset with a glass of wine in hand. Kids are welcome – as the bouncy castle indicates – but the layout of this place means that peace is assured. And what of the food? Consistent, Mediterranean standards that have stood the test of time. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding, but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$ Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło i Powidło (see Burgers), has its accent on more high-end meats: and by that we mean steaks. Hopefully, they’re an improvement on the ones served by their sister – we’ll be visiting soon to see. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze,

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Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t.

While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, duchnickawinebar. com Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead, excels in this loft-style warehouse. His menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant rack of lamb. $$ Dwie Trzecie ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 They’ve taken on a reputedly cursed location, but chef Marcin Jabłoński looks like a man capable of breaking the hex.

Think author’s cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and plenty of surprises along the way – edible flowers, nitrogen blasts, etc.

The hangar steak scores big points, while the mid-market prices belie the high standard.

Pleasingly, you get the idea Dwie Trzecie will work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet also intimate for winter. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest. Yes it’s a bar, but there is a talent in the kitchen that elevates it beyond just normal bar standard. That’s Shane, a New Zealander whose put a London past to good use by coming up with an evolving menu that’s seen such items as kangaroo steak, five spiced pork belly and modern interpretations of British classics: shepherd’s pie, for instance. $$ Jasna 24 (D4) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.jasna24.pl Slick,

modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www.facebook.com/dwichlab Referred to by some as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks – sometimes faster. The chef is known for his trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Casual Dining” Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www. burgerkitchen.pl What was once Burger Kitchen has had a name change to reflect a new direction that encompasses Italian polpo and handmade ravioli, an aged meat selection, not to mention a few Middle Eastern and Asian influences inspired by chef Tomek Woźniak’s global travels. Outstanding quality, a casual ambience and an avowed commitment to natural ingredients make it a must. And, FYI, Warsaw’s best burgers will remain on the menu.

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world - certainly, greater minds than ours have commented on this.

The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Chef”

listings / restaurants L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon-Fri 12:3015:30, 18:30-22:00; Sat 13:00-15:30, 18:30-22:30, eterrible.pl The menu doesn’t faff about – it is strong, silent and absent of adjectives: dishes are surmised using one word, in some cases two, imparting an element of suspense to the ordering process.

The five course tasting menu (zł. 170) is the work of chef Michał Bryś, and on our visit was an immense triumph the highlight of which was a course composed entirely of tomatoes. This place is going to be huge. $$$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $ NatuRest & Wine Chłodna 2/18, tel. 506 511 146, open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00 -22:00 The upcoming status of Chłodna street is spoiled somewhat by Natu – we were served guacamole that was nearly black from oxidation, ice cold corn-on-the-cob and a stale tortilla. The old adage – ‘never trust a restaurant with a four letter name, unless its

Noma’ – is particularly true here. $$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.nolita. pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience. Some of the taste and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). Privately, many have been left bewildered by the lack of Michelin star. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Fine Dining” Norma (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl Diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs wrapped around the rafters. But what of the menu?

That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His food is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. The kaszanka is deep and rich but the biggest success is the

cod with apple puree: rolling in strong, unique flavors, it’s completely astonishing. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel.

501 497 410, open 12:0023:00, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected

by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00, www.passepartout.pl Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”

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listings / restaurants Passe Partout. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen.

The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. The back garden is a secret summer treat, so hard luck that it’s gone for now. $$

Sun 11:00-23:00, www.piekna56 The line between restaurants and wine bars is increasingly blurred, and here’s another opening that greys those boundaries further.

Well considered interiors feature a tree (!), nude art and stacks of wine bottles strategically planted around this warm womb-like space. The menu is light and creative, with the biggest spend being a five star roast beef. $$

Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, tel. 22 412 0656, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00;

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$

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Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening.$$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’.

Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Restaurant Design” Skandal (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 350 0444, open Mon-Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.skandalbistrobar.pl Skandal’s look is light and clear headed with the ground floor statement piece being a collection of cool hanging lights all bunched together. Beautiful. There’s only six or so mains to choose from, but they’re a triumph: the sous-vide duck was a dish of real merit and worth well

listings / restaurants in excess of the zł. 39 price. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl With all the hipsters mincing about it sure doesn’t look like a restaurant: diners line-up at the counter to order, before sitting down in a spontaneous looking interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

Chef Aleksander Baron is an absolute star, and his daily changing menu (hourly changing, even), presents soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients.

His eye for good meat is undisputed, making it the best alternate dining experience you’ll see for a while. $$

Soul Kitchen (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00;

Sun 13:00-22:00, www.soulkitchen.pl Soul Kitchen were one of the first in Warsaw to make a song and dance about embracing concepts of ‘fresh’ and ‘natural’, and as such the menu is tampered with regularly to ensure nothing but the best. Our main of saddle of deer was beautifully cooked, and a miracle of freshness that lingers long on the palette. Only the dessert surpasses it: the best strawberries we’ve tried be it in Poland or abroad. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and

you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia. pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www.restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no

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listings / restaurants rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43. pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna

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cotta. Consider Tamka one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality.

With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale

restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl

listings / restaurants Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – a year after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$

12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl A modern looking eatery / cocktail bar whose kitchen is inspired by the flavors and tastes of North Africa and Asia. Set over two floors, their enduring popularity – eight years and counting – makes it something of a legend on Żurawia. $$

Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl.

Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 A dark and dimmed space – fashionably sparse – with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizza rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’, as well as a scattering of other Italian dishes. Cooked up by Lino and Fabio, the result is Warsaw’s most extraordinary pizzas: yep, the place is even endorsed by the city’s notoriously picky Italian community. $

You & Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:0024:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun

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italian

Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$

Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl, open 12:00-23:00 Contemporary, pared down interiors and a menu devised and mastered by chef Samuele Mariani have seen Chianti return to its best. Making use of local produce and imported ingredients, this modern interpretation of Italian cuisine is championed by numerous Italian expats. You can’t say fairer than that. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? How about a recommendation from Michelin… $$

You&Me Bar

on Żurawia is the ideal place for relaxation and interaction.

Imagine a Marrakesh street heavy with the spicy fragrance of Moroccan cuisine – it stimulates your senses like a strong aphrodisiac.

And so will You&Me…

6/12 Żurawia str., Phone: 22 379 0379 Email: rezerwacja@youandmebar.pl

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listings / restaurants Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$

Sun-Thu 10:30-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $

12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $

Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $

Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.nonsolo.pl Basic but modern looking: can be described as ‘cut-price cosmopolitan’. The kitchen takes Stage Center, and a stage it is – amateur theatrics are sometimes part of the bill. A staggering choice of pizzas await (we counted 48, but might have got it wrong), and while they’re pretty decent it’s a while since Nonsolo was talked about as being Warsaw’s best pie. $

La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047, open

Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel,

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listings / restaurants Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:0023:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till.

The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 625 5417, open 11:00-1:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl An Italian chain that’s happened on a winning formula: fresh ingredients, decent prices and an informal atmosphere. And doesn’t Warsaw love that. It will never win the prize for the city’s best Italian, but it is of a consistently high standard. In particular, the pizzas impress. $$ Trattoria Rucola ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul.

Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola. pl Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses

across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www.vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi. eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Robata by Akashia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants www.akashia.pl, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover

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without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu. pl Sushi gets a five star makeover in Wabu, a place that pretty much blows the competition out of the water. You’ll be paying handsomely for the honor, but what do you expect from a venue where bottles of Moet sit in buckets of ice. Intimate and luxurious, Wabu proudly boast that there is no menu and that instead, ‘every dish is a unique composition’ prepped by their chefs according to your whims… Full review next issue. $$$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life.

Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently

good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant.

Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo.pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45 C and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Found high up in the increasingly naff-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos is adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes. A growing number of Americans can be found making their way to Floor 5 of the Millennium, and that’s to sample an exciting range of salsas and a solid menu of Mexican staples. $ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 Owned by a local hip hop star, this Gringo clearly knows what he’s doing. From the punchy salsa right down to the Jarridos

listings / restaurants soda, this tiny locale doles out Warsaw’s most authentic burritos knocked out by friendly staff dressed in baggy t-shirts and back-to-front caps.

La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic volte face. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch? Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most

people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings.

Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening.$$

Tapas Gastrobar ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber

tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00 & Zgoda 6, tel. 22 826 0009, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, www. mexican.pl Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6 $$

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

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listings / restaurants Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 19 lunches present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as the best in town. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine. pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$ Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Outstanding Achievement”

open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$

Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060,

Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open

Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$

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listings / restaurants Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open

daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment.

Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Kluska Polska (D4) ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. 602 550 786, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.kluskapolska.pl The crazy black and white design has you thinking you’ve stepped into a cartoon cutout, so for the love of God, don’t take any funny little pills before you enter. The menu is simple and traditional, with hefty dumplings the domi-

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nant entity. Cheap and cheerful, all the signs suggest a success story in the making. $ Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open MonSat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate.

Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic.

Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami.pl Despite being judged worthy of a recom-

listings / restaurants mendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl A beautiful design consisting of row upon row of colorful jars is the backdrop at Słoik, a contemporary Polish restaurant / cocktail bar / hangout.

It’s hard not to love the beef cheeks – they’re outstanding, and a great tonic on a drizzly day. $$

Stara Kamienica (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 690 6767, stara-kamienica.com.pl Looking elegantly polished, the atmospheric Stara Kamienica presents the cooking of Adam Kowalczyk in a classy, dimmed background . Start with velvety celery soup with a dash of white chocolate and truffle, before moving onto ragout of wild boar. $$

Customers receive 25% off everything ordered with the words ‘Warsaw Insider’ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to

enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

scandinavian

ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 607 562 122, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:0021:00 Who doesn’t like being greeted at the door by a hearty buongiorno? That comes from Mario, a chef who insists on flying his ingredients daily from Italy. The seafood is the best we’ve had in Warsaw: huge shrimps, and mussels served in an invigorating white wine sauce that’s both salty and spicy. The interior is a simple fisherman’s cabin space, and it’s easy to overlook details such as scraggy tables and obnoxious expats with slicked back hair and big, chunky watches: with food like this, who cares? $$

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

seafood Seaside Bistro (D5) www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Filling the void left by the departure of Hala Koszyki, Bazar Olkuska garners together an array of top suppliers for your grocery wants and needs: stalls include those of I Love Hummus, La Petit France, Crazy Butcher and Damas. Ethnically varied, the principle narrative strand connecting them all is the quality.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc.

Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Food & Joy (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00, www.foodandjoy.eu An upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while

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others see it as more than that. And so it is.

Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine.

Lots and lots of wine.

neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.maho.com.pl An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance. pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.littleindia. pl The definitive Indian store though it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must.

Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

SPONSORED ARTICLE

What does it mean to both you and the restaurant to be recognized with a Bib Gourmand?

Obviously we wanted it, not least so that we could join our sister restaurant Butchery & Wine on an equal footing. But there’s more to getting the Bib – for us the most important thing is that our guests enjoy the restaurant. Their opinion is a bigger prize. Of course, getting the Bib does mean we get more people through the door, and once they’re in it’s down to us to get them coming back.

What is this restaurant’s philosophy?

We use proper ingredients – everything on the menu is fresh. And I’m sure that’s one of the reasons we received the Bib. People can trust that what they see on the menu will always be the best. Neither do we cover or mask these ingredients – we don’t go in for all these complex jellies and powders, instead we use honest techniques that people understand.

A MICHELIN MAN

Recipients of a Michelin Bib Gourmand earlier in the year, the Insider pops into Brasserie Warszawska to speak to its chef: rising talent Mateusz Wichrowski.

There’s a wealth of good restaurants in Warsaw, so what separates it from the competition?

We’re a classic restaurant, and that’s hard to find in Warsaw. Of course we watch the market, but we don’t go in for all these fashionable cooking methods. We’re a classic French restaurant, and our techniques try to reflect that. You could say our motto is ‘love what you eat, eat what you love’, so we give people what we want to eat, and what we enjoy.

What dishes excite you?

I love turbot – everything about it: the taste, the texture, it’s all unique. And, I’m a huge fan of desserts. In Brasserie, these aren’t some forgotten element of the menu.

What can we expect from you over the coming couple of months?

For sure lots of mushrooms, foie gras, white truffles, deer, and seasonal desserts – I imagine chocolate-based to warm you up. And we’ll be launching a degustation menu that will feature fried oysters, white fish, venison, good cheese, wine pairings and a sour cocktail. The idea is to show people what we’ve got.

Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl

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listings / restaurants steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is

a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a wine bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. While they pride themselves on their 9+ rated kobe beef, it’s the USDA filet mignon that we rate as the top drawer – it’s sublime. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers.

The standard is high, but so too the prices.

Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen

Recently Opened Fresh fish, quality meat, as well as dishes for vegans, vegetarians and gluten-free meals – no alcohol license yet, but you can bring your own!

Lif Al.Niepodległości 80

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in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

whole foods Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistro-pestka. pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet.

Even the fish is tested for high metal content.

Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk).

The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

cafes & wine bars bakeries Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

WINE STORES: SIX TO WATCH KONDRAT (Wierzbowa 3) This nationwide chain is rated highly by all, with the Warsaw enterprise ably looked after by Janusz Chmielewski – his advice is priceless. Though it has a reputation as the wine store of the stars, the prices are largely accessible.

LES SECRETS DU VIN (Walecznych 68) A small enterprise run by a pair of wine lovers – one of them, a certified graduate from l’Universite du Vin. Personalized service and a wide choice of wines, not to mention wine tasting courses conducted in their atmospheric cellar.

MIELZYŃSKI (Burakowska 5/7) Considered by many as the market leader, the Mielzyński warehouse is a mix of Old World Continental and New World wine with approximately 500 labels to pick from. Easy online ordering also available.

WEJMAN (Zgoda 4) The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

WINKOLEKCJA (Olkuska 7) The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger.

VINOTRIO (Marszałkowska 76) Specializing in French, Spanish and Italian wine, VinoTrio touts price points that appeal to all incomes – bottles begin at zł. 30. Despite the small footprint the choice is extensive, with wine also available by the glass before purchase.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte. com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Przystanek Piekarnia (D6) ul. Koszykowa 58, przystanekpiekarnia.pl The atmosphere is brisk and buzzing inside what’s emerged as the breadbasket of choice for Warsaw’s fashionistas. An interesting design authored by architect Maciej Kurkowski makes use of dozens of wooden slats that seemingly cascade from the ceiling, but make no mistake, the talking point is the bread and luxurious pastries.

cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place.

Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:00www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars 23:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in this industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on-trend 30 something’s.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

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Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-20:00 The design is refreshing and modern: heavy on white, with several punches of color. As for the crepes, no-one in Warsaw does them better. The strawberry pancake, served with white chocolate and Nutella, is satisfaction in its purest form. And once you’re done with their 30 or so pancakes, move onto the waffles…

Dr. Kava (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 601 615 327, open MonFri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www. drkava.pl Looking dynamite red, Dr. Kava was one of the success stories of 2013 – some go as far as to say it’s their favorite coffee in the city. Coffee from Chicco d’Oro and chocolates and confectionary from pedigree producer

Leone signal this doctor’s dedication to his clientele.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30, tel. 504 975 370, open Mon-Thur 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl Floor-to-ceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 732 870 780, open 15:0020:00 “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I

listings / cafés & wine bars created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner.

Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, open 10:00-20:00, www.lavanille.pl Thick with the scent of icing sugar, La Vanille’s big boast are cupcakes that will make you swoon. Find them lined up in precise formation under a glass counter, and don’t forego the cakes in the display case to the right. It looks chic and glossy, but most get the cupcakes packed up to go for private indulgence.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:00-22:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www.miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate.

The backdrop muddles pristine wall tiles with comfy chaises and uber-cool lighting, with the ambience never too commercial, nor too hipster – rather, just right.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 22 870 13 25, open Mon-Wed 12:00-22:30; Thu-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental. The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers and some fine desserts.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Strefa (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 784 404 731, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00 A pleasing find, Strefa’s casual atmosphere is emphasized by a stack of board games and books in the corner – people come here to dwell and dawdle over hot coffee, craft beer, changing art and a slice of homemade cake. A strong sense of neighborhood prevails, with owners of neighboring businesses always swinging by for a chat and a chew.

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Sueño Café & Tapas Bar ul. Oboźna 9/100, tel. 22 826 8317, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 The simple décor, inspired by a traveller’s way of living, provides a casual yet lively atmosphere.

Surfboards and beach photographs decorate the walls and hammocks hang from the ceilings. The owners, kite surfers and avid travellers, have combined ideas from various different countries – evident not only in the décor but also in the menu.

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:0021:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil.

Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

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Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 tel. 22 828 4998, open 9:00-22:00 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch.

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone.

The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country.

And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar” Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed.

While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with casual city cool.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums.

But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00 Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00 Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

nightlife Warsaw Tortilla Factory

bars & pubs Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

EXPAT FOOTBALL PUBS BRITISH BULLDOG (Jerozolimskie 42) British in name and design, but not in character or clientele. The Bulldog has several critics – least not us – something that dates to their suicidal decision to lose their original English manager. But they do have football, and that’s enough for some. Channels inc. Sky Sports and Canal Plus.

CHAMPIONS (Marriott Hotel, Jerzolimskie 65/79) A classic Americanstyle sports bar with an overwhelming collection of memorabilia.

It’s huge, but tables go fast for big games – especially on Champions League nights – so advanced bookings are always recommended.

Channels inc. all major Polish networks.

HAKA (Bracka 20) As the name suggests, it’s rugby that’s the sport of choice in Haka, but that doesn’t stop EPL fans streaming in either.

Co-owner Kevin Bradley’s hospitality is one-of-a-kind, and his expert Guinness peerless. The intimate setting makes for a cracking atmosphere. Channels inc. Sky Sports, BT, Canal Plus, UK Premier.

LEGENDS (Emilii Plater 25) The most authentic British bar in town comes complete with a few Merseyside trimmings: pictures of The Beatles and a genuine Evertonian behind the bar! That’s Graham, a scouse football nut who’ll give his take on the state of the game.

Channels inc. Sky Sports, BT, Canal Plus.

WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY (Wilcza 46) The Insider’s ‘sport bar of the year’ for the last two years, and deservedly so. And they’re not going to relinquish that crown any time soon – the atmosphere is unbeatable, and helped by an Irish landlord whose every bit at home bantering with the regulars as he is behind the bar. Channels inc. Sky Sports, BBC, ITV, BT, Canal Plus.

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Beer Bus Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały-Sokołowskiego, open 15:00-last guest A mobile multi-tap found in a reclaimed red and yellow bus.

But you fear they’ve missed the point of the whole multi-tap trend. Rather than promoting exciting independent breweries Beer Bus have chosen to instead stock mostly mainstream yellow fizz. All of a sudden, drinking isn’t as fun.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), open 11:00last guest Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, Bierhalle have morphed into a national chain. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

The beer is good, but Warsaw now has much better and in less formulaic surrounds.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is

listings / nightlife that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find.

And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest, www.kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus an outdoor wooden terrace that’s largely superior to anything in the area.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature,

cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is a summer must and frequently utilized for various one-off events.

Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw.pl Some say it’s more of a café – we say, check the fridge. Despite its diminutive size Cześć have one of the most adventurous alcohol offers in the city, with a steady stream of British cider (Sheppy’s, Weston’s, Old Rosie), Polish lagers (Artezan, Pinta) and other international names (Grimbergen, Crabbies). If there was an award for best neighborhood hangout, they’d breeze it.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czeska Piviarnia ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 19/21, tel. 730 855 566, open Sun-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-2:00 Warsaw’s realization that there is beer beyond Żywiec is in evidence with the creation of this haunt. Seven Czech beers are rotated on the taps, and several dozen more sit in bottles in the fridge. While the design doesn’t go far beyond tables and chairs, it’s a sign city center trends are penetrating the suburbs. If you’re Żoliborz-based, then it’s a must.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1)

ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open MonWed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Big things are happening in this small little room. Under the stewardship of Kevin Bradley this ex-pat hit has now added Guinness and live sports (it’s the rugger bugger favorite) to their offer to go alongside a fab menu by Kiwi chef Shane. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, Haka gets further applause for adding Arnie – Warsaw’s favorite cocktail king – to their staff lineup.

Heca ul. Chmielna 21, tel. 504 353 772, open Sat 18:00-3:00 There’s a few spots vying for the title of ‘sensation of the summer’ and Heca might just nose it. Found in a courtyard, this place eschews a vibe more common with Amsterdam or Berlin: DJs spin records while a crowd of fashion savvy locals lap up artisan beers. Ringing it all find photo displays and stalls selling ice pops, waffles, even grilled insects.

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki) Waiting to open at press time, Hopsters brings the multi-tap phenomenon to Muranów. We don’t know much, but we do know it’ll have 20 taps and a ‘gastro pub’ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife menu – we like it already. Watch this space.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily 11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jaś i Małgosia Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead! An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś i Małgosia are set to reopen this month two years after closing. While the previous incarnation was a shabby glimpse into communist Poland, the new one promises to be young and hip while also respecting the considerable heritage of this spot. More news next issue.

Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open MonThu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 What began life a couple of months ago as a Belgian bar has expanded their offer to reflect Poland’s growing fascination with international artisan beer.

Yes they’ve got Belgian beers aplenty, but they’ve also got top sips from Brew Dog, not to mention niche American finds such as the

cult Alaskan, Danish Mikeller as well as many domestic finds. The industrial design of breeze blocks and chipboard is softened by mustard lighting and a laidback audience.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, it’s the kind of cocktail bar that Warsaw’s been waiting for.

Find innovative cocktails fixed by fun, playful staff, not to mention unexpected surprises such as a bike with antlers and prizes (a yo-yo!) for anyone who can make an origami paper cock out of the menu (as in a rooster, not something naughty).

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing

beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar” Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, open Mon-Thu 7:30-24:00; Fri 7:30-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun 9:0024:00, www.leniviec.pl Poznańska? More like Pose-nańska. Join the bright and the

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

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listings / nightlife beautiful inside Leniviec, a hip haunt that’s shed its cafe roots and returned to earth as a cocktail bar. And a good one. Place your faith in Patryk the bar maestro.

www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www. lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi.com. pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles.

Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar to a backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:00-24:00 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd that’s all glinting watches and logo-clad bags. The expanse of greenery outside has installed it as one of Warsaw’s principal seasonal drinking zones.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest condensation of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

OSP Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00,

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins is already installed as our cocktail of choice for summer 2014.

Patio (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9, open 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 15:00-last guest Largely abandoned by residents, the courtyard at Kredytowa 9 has been reclaimed by Patio, a place that announces itself in a riot of greenery and upcycled fixtures. During the day it’s a place of chatter and chill and calm contemplation.

At night though, all hell breaks loose: there was a pink bra hanging from above the DJ decks when we visited, which should say enough.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00;

Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Dubbing themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap bar’, Piw Paw have an armory of 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem?

Designed more for carry-out custom, it’s an ambitious project though one that doesn’t feel entirely thought out. And in spite of the offer, it’s nothing more exciting than the other multi-tap choices. A good start point, nonetheless.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:001:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:0024:00 Whoever thought theming a bar on a communist hospital deserves to be sectioned off to one. The interiors are fun (operating theater lights, surgical utensils and a row of toilets in the smoking room), but beyond the gimmickry it’s a place of conventional (bad) WW

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Polish beers and frosty staff – if that’s part of the theme we’d rather it weren’t.

Rumbarak (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 415 000 Settle in under the arcades of pl. Zbawiciela and join Warsaw’s posers and pretenders sipping on Belgian beers and organic wines. The petite menu has won several plaudits, and this intimate spot already looks like eclipsing Charlotte as the place to be seen. That does, however, mean you’re likely to leave with earache from all the senseless yabbering going on around.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink BEST WAWA 2013 that kicks like a mule.

“Cocktails” Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Sztuki i Sztuczki (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, open Sun-Thu 12:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 18:00-last guest, www.sztukisztuczki.pl Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen, while cocktails are novel and largely ravish-

ing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed

by Pierre Favresse. Rather than attracting gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes and plastic models the music attracts a diverse range of peeps: that’s thanks to a schedule that encompasses everything from jazz tributes to club nights. BEST WAWA 2013 “Late Night” Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

Zamieszanie ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, open Thu-Sat 19:002:00 Cuda Na Kiju have built on last year’s success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their brew pub. Here though its cocktails that are the draw. While the pre-bottled drinks mean you have none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktails, they cut down waiting times. And yes, they are actually good.

clubs Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal stair-

listings / nightlife cases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00 Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Lemon (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www. cafelemon.pl A commercial dance basement that’s more beer than Belvedere. Hardly hedonistic, but usually a good mix of people – some who’ve made the effort, others who haven’t. While the club isn’t round-the-clock, the upstairs bar is, and as such find plenty of early morning casualties looking utterly zonked inside a chilled out, lemon yellow interior.

Organza ul. Mazowiecka 12, open Wed-Sat 19:004:00, www.kluborganza.pl The layout is basic: set over two floors lit in Organza’s signature orange/black colors, there’s not much to comment in terms of design – it’s shiny and new and all things Warsaw. The crowd though likes to party and lacks the airs and arrogance of neighboring establishments.

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797, open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger.

Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, tel. 504 320 497, open 24hrs Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Meta (D3/E4) ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21, open 11:00-6:00 Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind

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a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspapered walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Przekąski u Romana (F4) ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777, open 24hrs. When Warsaw’s original shot bar, Przekąski Zakąski, closed last year the gasps were audible. But fear not, the cult hero you’d have found serving the shots, the bow-tied, debonair Roman Modzelewski, has gone and opened his own venue. Expect the same formula (cheap beer and vodka, traditional Polish boozy bites) inside a background dominated by a giant picture of the Palace of Culture.

Przekazki Zakaski (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 44, open 24hrs.

Warsaw’s first shot bar has upped sticks and moved from the Europesjski Hotel to an all-weather marquee behind the rotunda. Lacking the atmosphere of the original, it feels like a pointless attempt to trade on old glories. And not even city hall want you here: not until owner Adam Gessler pays off the millions he owes them.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997, open 12:00-last guest With pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 530 360 060, open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00, www.senpszczoly.pl A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down last year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness.

Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno.

Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228,

listings / nightlife open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00, www.club-space.eu A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

Sogo (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6 This place is all about volume, about being the biggest and loudest strip club Poland’s ever seen. Amid the glitzy sprawl find a myriad of attractive ladies who are all in agreement that you’re really great.

live music 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00, www.1500m2.com Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

Basen (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00.

For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

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shopping Mokotowska 48

accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www.agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

BOUTIQUE MINI MALLS ATELIER MOKOTOWSKA 63 (Mokotowska 63) Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all on their roll-call. Characterized by its quiet sense of discreet intimacy and quirky designer labels, Atelier hit all the right notes for a splurge.

BLIND CONCEPT STORE (Mokotowska 63/100) From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc.

MOKOTOWSKA 48 (Mokotowska 48) An open secret amongst Warsaw’s fashionistas, the unimaginative title belies an offer that includes Robert Kupisz’s much raved about boutique, the Fiuu Fiuu day spa, the Ale Wino wine bar, handmade shoes from Diran Anouchikian and a medley of other choice diversions.

MYSIA 3 (Mysia 3) Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

VITKAC (Bracka 9) Vitkac was made with a credit card blitz in mind.

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

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Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with Italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness make them a perenial favorite.

BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest name in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care, with many products incorporating an evolutionary peptide that stimulates a higher concentration of melanin in the skin.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

listings / shopping HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Officine 904 ul. Wilcza 3, officine904.pl Beautiful bags handmade in Florence from Italian calf leather. From clutch bags to market bags, this discreet walk-in offers uncompromising quality and craftsmanship characterized by its ‘purity of form’ and ‘utilitarian simplicity’.

OPTYK MOKO61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 8002, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, moko61.com Reputed to be the best eyewear store in the city, brands include Mykita, Lindberg, Barton Perreira, Dita and much, much more. The cup of coffee supplied while you browse is on the house, and typical of their attitude to service.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve

also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Lamus ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. 22 831 63 21, www. lamus.pl Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps. Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down.

Prima Porta Antiquities ul. Moktowska 71, www.primaportaantiquities.com At the top end of the scale

the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. Formidable pieces from tiny little Egyptian clay hippos from the 12th Dynasty, all the way to one and half meter statues of Buddha from the Third Myanmar Kingdom.

Victoria Galeria ul. Żytnia 15 lok. 4, open daily 10:00-18:00, www.antykivictoria.pl Sourced from the auction houses of London, with deliveries arriving each month, the offer is overwhelmingly English, though not exclusively so – there are oriental pieces, French, and more.

Refreshing in its bright, clean style, Victoria is a magnificent environment to shop for that statement piece every living room requires.

books American Bookstore Various locations, www.americanbookstore. pl Now a nationwide chain with seven outlets alone in Warsaw. The offer is overwhelmingly commercial with a strong emphasis placed on international bestsellers. There is, however, a very decent section dedicated to Polish history and tourism.

Bookoff Ogrodowa 7, tel. 22 253 6286, www.bookoff. pl A cult bookstore filled with trendy fashion and design bibles, photography albums, on-trend cookbooks and grown-up comics.

You could potentially end up spending really rather heavily.

Centrum Komiksu al. Niepodległości 148 Enter the realm of scifi, superheroes and Manga inside Centrum Komiksu, an unabashed geek-fest that draws not-at-all-creepy enthusiasts sifting through a classic collection of comics and collectibles.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl Look no further for books on modern Polish / Warsaw history. Of particular note are the picture heavy coffee table tomes that focus on Poland’s immediate pre-war, occupation and socialist years. Boffins are happy to spend hours browsing.

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, www.beczmiana.pl A tiny curiosity shop retailing hipster t-shirts, trendy trinkets and a fair amount of arty www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping books with a strong slant towards contemporary Warsaw.

tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 468 1619, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.supersalon. org The sort of titles you find in a cool New York magazine store: Apartmento, Elephant, The Gourmand, Kinfolk, Cereal, Aperture, and Gather. And check out the amazing art books published by the likes of Steidl, Mack, Gestalten and Powerhouse.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, www. emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish

Insider Pick

PAN TU NIE STAŁ

have arrived in Warsaw...

Founded in Łódź by Justyna Burzyńska and Maciek Labiedowicz, their cult design brand offers edgy clothes with a hip, retro edge. Showcasing Polish design at its best, the offer extends beyond fashion and also includes aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically ontrend, this place isn’t one to watch, it’s one to visit. ul. Koszykowa 35/40, tel. 887 887 772, pantuniestal.com

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three-floor department store.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Balmain, Christian Louboutin, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Simonetta Ravizza, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Tory Burch, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories as well as kid’s brands such as Baby Dior, Dolce & Gabbana Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids.

listings / shopping Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel.

506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Two Can Play ul. Wilcza 32, two-can-play.com For those who value individuality in fashion owner Michał has created a progressive concept store that looks to promote brands that you’d struggle to find here: nat & nin, Denham, Eleven Paris, White Tent and much more besides.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of

Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and

Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00, www.redfordandgrant.pl This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

She’s a Riot ul. Mokotowska 24, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, shop. shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, open Mon & Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy

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listings / shopping lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421, open Tue-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Bo Concept ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga. pl Magazyn Praga pride themselves on bold, original items suited to all kinds of budgets.

Found in the Soho Factory ‘creative complex’, this concept store will reinvent your home.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, tel. 22 825 4084, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, tel. 22 360 4389, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.moomo.pl Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Numero Uno ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www. numerouno.pl Beautiful home design store with brands include Ipe Cavalli, Zanette, Doimo and Calia Italia. The sofas are out of this world. Prices start at mid-range and stretch to steep, so watch out for their sales which can reach up to 70% off.

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Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 8373, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc.

Red Onion ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00, www. redonion.pl Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Reset ul. Puławska 48, resetpoint.pl A complete treasure trove of goods, including renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny. But its not retro specific, with several pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic and international design studios – for instance, animal print cushions by By Nord and lounge furniture by Dino Zoli.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain

by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.atrium-targowek.pl Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

My daughter dragged seven paperbacks, in hand luggage, around Europe this summer! I’m finally caving in to the Kindle’s appeal, and I have no doubt it will be her new best friend soon.

But it takes more than a machine to nurture the bookworm. Long may the well loved book shop live, preferably one with a cosy café! Powiśle, with the University Library and rooftop garden, is a great place to start the paper trail…

TARABUK (www.tarabuk.pl) Here time waits at the door whilst you immerse yourself in text, slumber in saggy sofas or perch at tables fit for Jane Austen’s quill. Children can paw the products to their hearts content and are happily guided by knowledgable staff. Sunday book readings are fun and, for the ultimate bookworm, why not organize a character personalized birthday party! The homemade peanut/toffee cheesecake would make Willy Wonka proud.

CZUŁY BARBARZYŃCA (www.czuly.pl) This book shop oozes knowledge and sophistication. Ample seating meanders stylishly around bookshelves that are lovingly stacked. The children’s books, predominantly Polish with exquisite illustrations, are a pleasure for all ages to admire.

The folly in the room is the swing! Here you can be as elegant as Anne of Green Gables pondering life or as naughty as Pippi Longstocking clambering rope. All characters welcome.

KSIĄŻKA DLA KAŻDEGO (www.conrada11.pl) Hidden below street level, under the University Library, is one of KDK’s five stores across Warsaw. It’s jam packed with a good selection of secondhand Polish and English classics for all ages. Not much place to sit so grab a bargain and head up to the roofgarden while the sun is still out. (GBB)

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HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

BOOKISH POWIŚLE

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

listings / family Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details check their web.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel. 781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five. The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched

with foreign languages and extra activities.

Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

warsaw montessori school

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listings / family The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com T he English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old.

Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori

is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking

BROUGHT TO YOU BY MUPPETSHOP

T

he baby is due and time is running out! Fortunately, Muppetshop replaces the pain of shopping for the impending bundle of joy with pleasure. How? Through a philosophy that places emphasis on what they term ‘complex layered service’.

“We have everything an expecting couple needs,” says Ewelina Gawlik, “the full A to Z. That means everything from bottles and towels to furniture and other interior accessories.”

And true, this Mokotów store can’t fail to impress. The choice is staggering, but importantly, so is the nature of the stock. “We look for three requirements,” says Ewelina, “high quality, functionality and good design.” As evidence of this, she’s points out the merchandise by the Belgian firm Quax, whose focus is on everlasting

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design, toned colors and furniture for youngsters, Dutch textiles brand Lodger, and innovative UK brand Shnuggle.

This alone would be enough to lure prospective parents, but there’s more – and this is where the ‘complex layered service’ enters the equation. This concept store is not just about products, but service as well. Couples are encouraged to pop in for a visit, during which Muppetshop staff will ascertain their wants and needs, and help assemble a list of ‘must-haves’ and ‘nice-tohaves’. “They can spend as much time as they wish here, have a drink and a snack and go through our stock list – they’ll see our products, touch them, feel them and familiarize themselves with them. Usually about two or three meetings are required before a final layered set is chosen.”

But Muppetshop is more than just a cool shop – it’s a complete solution to the daunting process of preparing for a new arrival. “We don’t want parents to run from shop to shop, to read twenty blogs and visit fifty websites,” says Ewelina, “if there’s other things on their list that we don’t stock we’ll handle it, we’ll get it.” Furthermore, they’re happy to help with delivering items, unpacking them, even arranging them all in the baby’s room.

“We’re about full service,” she adds, “we can arrange meetings concerning wider birthing and parenting issues, advise on things like the choice of physiotherapist or doula, or simply prepare a gift list to issue to friends and family.” In short, having a baby has never been easier.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, open Mon-Fri 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-15:00, muppetshop.pl

listings / family private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the

highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native Frenchspeaking teachers.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442, Open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00, www.ias. edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl The

International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), tel. 510 077 979 or 603 798 297, open 7:30-18.00, ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 506 021 038 or 501 205 080, Open 7:30-17:30, www. kidsacademy.com.pl A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

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listings / family section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel.

887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 500 200 200, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, www. nowakuznia.pl Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl Personalized service and top-quality products make this Warsaw’s No. 1 spot for your baby / child needs. Toys, accessories, furniture, prams and buggies, books, etc. from brands such as Quax, Lodger, La Millou, My Name is Simone, Scnuggle and more.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

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health & beauty cycling stores & service AveBmx ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 828 0213, avebmx. pl Cult BMX store in the hip Powiśle district.

Staffed by true enthusiasts who live the BMX lifestyle, it’s the No. 1 spot in Warsaw for those who see BMX as the only way to cycle.

Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant.

Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out.

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

THE YOGA ZONE: TOP 5 ASTANGA YOGA STUDIO (Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl) Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa, as well as English-speaking staff.

BIKRAM YOGA (Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, www.bikram.pl) A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room.

Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome.

PADMA STUDIO (Wilcza 32/100, padmastudio.pl) A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness in a super friendly atmosphere.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ADAM IWANSKI

YOGA MEDICA (Racławicka 28, yogamedica.pl) Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues.

YOGA REPUBLIC (Śniadeckich 18 lok. 1, www.yogarepublic.pl) This studio combines a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east.

Yoga Republic offers a full schedule of four types of yoga to suit experience and expectations.

Plumbike ul. Puławska 67/69, tel. 690 005 415, plumbike.eu More of a bike boutique than a standard old bike store. Assembled by hand by the Plumbike team, the models here are beautiful, and range from choppers to cruisers in eye-catching colors.

Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

gyms Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across

the country. All clubs have new generation of machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl

Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl

DAILY GUIDED TOURS IN ENGLISH WWW.SEGWAYCITYTOURS.PL Booking +48 600 310 320

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Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and

listings / health & beauty corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine.

The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with

gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Spearside ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 789 109 119, spearside.pl Warsaw’s premier male spa / salon offers massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

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listings / health & beauty aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. Hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, www. spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you

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too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Centrum Golf – Sklep & Symulatory Golfowe ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 22 428 88 84, 2golf.pl A great way to introduce yourself to the game, Centrum Golf offers HDGolf simulators that will take you to the world’s most famous gold courses. The center is home to the only open golf league in the country.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), tel. 22 782 4555, firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 71, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, club house and a stunning backdrop to which to enjoy it all.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side.

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

Golf Park Jozefów ul. Telimeny (Józefów), tel. 22 778 3090, holiday.aquila.pl A six-hold course plus a floodlit driving range and mini-golf.

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl. Keen

in the city 1 Not much needs to be said about the Chopin Museum, but while there check the ‘golden duck’ in the fountain – it used to guard a horde of treasure… And you won’t miss the mural: the idea was to show Chopin as someone ‘living his life to the fullest’. As such the mural features fast cars and bling.

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BEYOND FOKSAL...

See another side of Warsaw by looping round the back of Foksal, a place where the only sounds are the plaintive tinkle of a student’s piano… a Tamk

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The best free concert you’ll hear in town? That’ll be outside the Fryderyk Chopin University of Music on Okólnik 2. No wonder the benches in the park behind are occupied by canoodling couples.

For more upscale romance, check Baroque-looking Endorfina and its magical garden.

Smolna 8 was designed in 1964, completed in 1976 and originally slated to serve as a hotel. Nicknamed ‘the hammerhead’ for its unique silhouette, its 140 apartments were considered state-of-the-art at the time. Ponder that with a beer from the golden oldies-themed Kameralna microbrewery and restaurant – it was a 1950s fave for local arty types.

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com

44 11 482, www.hilton.com

www.sheraton.pl

Hotel Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw-hotel.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100,

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamp-

MEDIA PATRONAGE

FREEMASONRY. PRO PUBLICO BONO

September 11 onwards National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl A new exhibition devoted to Freemasonry, one of the most important cultural elements in Poland since the 18th century. Gathering nearly 500 items, objects of interest include everything and anything connected with Masonic rituals – aprons, mallets, insignia, chalices, seals and artwork.

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BEHIND THE APPEARANCES

September 26 onwards Spectra Art Space | Starak Family Foundation, ul. Bobrowiecka 6 The first comprehensive exhibition of works by Vera Lehndorff /Holger Trülzsch.

The two developed an anamorphic technique of drawing and painting on Lehndorff’s body, which at times fuses with the surroundings. Truly stunning.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2014

TRANSATLANTYK FESTIVAL

Poznań Pozńan’s August TransAtlantyk festival was hailed the most successful to date, with over 60,000 people attending this feast of music and cinema.

Celebrating their fourth year, highlights included the ‘Glocal Hero’ award, bestowed on philosopher and critic Dr. Gayatri Spivak, and the Instant Composer prize, won by Mateusz Dębski.

KINO DZIECI

September 27 to October 5 Various locations, www.nhef.pl A film festival targeted at children! Expect 40 screenings plus held over a ten day period.

Films include several premiers as well as the best and latest international productions. Also featured will be children’s films from Norway, not to mention fun workshops aimed at kids aged five to twelve.

listings / in the city toninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com

those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Vision Apartments Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 81 ( 22nd floor), tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision Apartments specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments. In Warsaw, the company is present with designer apartments inside Platinum Towers on ul. Grzybowska.

RESIDENTS relocation companies AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127B, tel. 22 847 8878, www.bestorelocations.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

polish for foreigners Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

community InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as

assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

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listings / in the city public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums & galleries Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till September 28: Photo.

A broad presentation of Norman Leto’s work, including sculptures, installations, objects and visual media.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion.

Ongoing till October 10: Three Times in Poland. American photographer John Vachon visited Poland in 1946, 1956 and 1963, and this exhibition of his photographs provides a fascinating insight into a country struggling to come to terms with the fallout of war and its new social order.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, www.mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little-known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

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Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, www.niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw. art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Ongoing till September 21: Maria Papa Rostowska. A retrospective of the works of this renowned Polish sculptress, and the first of its kind in the world.

Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a

restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6 Slated to open in the coming months, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing till October 3: Jew, Pole, Legionary. The exhibition depicts the lives of Jewish members of Piłsudski’s Polish Legions, as well as the history of Jewish civilians residing in occupied Polish territories.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski.

Ongoing: As You Can See – Polish Art Today.

The most ‘up-to-date’ collection of Polish modern art to date will apparently be, “critical, liberating, psychedelic, often brutal and perverse, dense and ambiguous.” Ongoing till Sept 14: In the Near Future. Works from 47 artists demonstrating the social changes that occurred after 1989.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days of yore.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. From September 11: Freemasonry. Pro Publico Bono.

This exhibition aims to show freemasonry as a lasting element of culture and history and will present its universal language of symbols, allegory and parable.

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CLASS SOLUTIONS

Dear Hatf, the CEO is in town from Friday to Saturday, only I haven’t had time to arrange anything… You’ve got to help!

H15

THE BRIEF We have meetings between 11 a.m. and noon, and then 2 till 6 p.m. On Saturday, we have an informal meeting at 10 and then the rest of the day free till his evening flight. Where should he stay? I know he prefers historic, something with character. What should we do? How can I keep him entertained while also providing a taste of Poland?

THE PLAN Our driver will whisk him from airport to hotel. Maybe Le Regina, in the heart of the historic New Town. Or maybe he prefer H15 – a luxury choice and the former home of the Soviet Embassy.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3-4

Maybe we can start with breakfast at the legendary Bristol Hotel. Alternatively we recommend Flaming & Co. as the best breakfast in town.

Between meetings, how about coffee in the MITO gallery / café.

Admire the paintings, sculptures and graphic work of Poland’s leading artists during the break.

With Friday tied up, let’s go to Warszawa Wschodnia by restaurateur Matteuz Gessler. The Soho Factory location is both edgy and original. More central, try Concept 13 while taking in panoramic views of Warsaw below.

Concept 13

For sophisticated drinks then Plac Barcelona was the place of the summer – even the President has showed up there. Finish it off with a trip to the cosmopolitan Syreni Śpiew.

The next day, why not pick up some quirky souvenirs for friends back home. Spod Lady on Chmielna ticks that box with amusing souvenirs inspired by the PRL era.

But for a bit of real retail therapy, walk down Pl. Trzech Krzyży and Mokotowska to see the best Polish and international designer names. If there’s time, our driver will take both of you to Galeria Mokotów – close to the airport – where you’ll find everything from dapper labels to exclusive watches.

He won’t forget Poland

Zuza and Jan of Hatf offer tailor-made, bespoke solutions for all your organizational needs.

Together they can book that restaurant, organize that meeting, and find solutions to maximize your visit to Poland. Make Warsaw unforgettable… To find out more, visit: www.hatf.pl

HATF

www.hatf.pl Jan tel. +48 888 129 129, jan@hatf.pl Zuza tel. +48 795 657 399, zuza@hatf.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

99

listings / in the city The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www. neonmuzeum.org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the

CITY INSIGHT

original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested?

Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, www.mhw.pl Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, its single exhibit being a 1930s sugar bowl by Julia Keilowa. In keeping with this year’s theme of modernity, it is almost space age in design. There’s the New Varsovians exhibit, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Until September 29: Cosmos Calling! Learn how science in the 60s inspired all walks of Polish art: from music and design to urban planning and architecture.

Following on from the success of SAS, focused on the buildings of the Saska Kępa district, the Foundation Center for Architecture return with ŻOL, which zooms in on the suburb Żoliborz. Presented in Polish and English, and accompanied by the beautiful graphics of Magdalena Piwowar, ŻOL brings you the story of sixty Żoliborz landmarks – some ugly, some exquisite, but all totally compelling. Pick it up for zł. 39

100 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2014

CLASSIFIEDS w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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BAR SPY

Expats Uncovered The Insider’s secret bar spy is back, checking in with more tall tales of expat calamity…

“

A few years ago I was staying in the Poznań Sheraton.

I’d armed myself with a burger in the bar downstairs and went up to my room to eat it. I’m a bit funny with my burgers and hate eating them with my hands so I rang up reception and asked them to send up a knife and fork.

“Of course sir, what kind of girl would you like?” The guy thought I was asking for something else that begins with F. The thing that baffled me, mind, was why would he think I wanted a knife to go with what the dirty act he thought I wanted?”

“

I’ve given up learning Polish. I signed up for this language course in Mokotów and took a Saturday

104 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2014

morning tram for my first lesson. What went wrong? I’ve no idea, but next thing I know the tram has reached its terminal and the driver walks off without checking if everyone has got off. Dammit, I’m left in this locked carriage with this lunatic of a woman who started having a meltdown – thirty minutes of hell. I’m never going back to Mokotów, let alone for a language lesson.”

“

I live in Muranów, and we’ve got these communal garbage bins outside the flats that are set through a barred gate. Trouble is, the lock has been broken for weeks and word has got around the bin-raiding community. They come at all hours to sift through the rubbish collecting bottles and cans. I feel sorry for them, who wouldn’t? My neighbor, that’s who. He’s had enough of people waking him up at odd hours so he’s taken to running downstairs whenever he hears someone searching through the trash and padlocking them inside with his own lock to teach them a lesson. One day I was throwing my rubbish out and then realized I’d chucked my keys in by accident as well. Taking a deep breath I decided to be brave and search for them in the bin. After five minutes of frantic, smelly searching I find them but, to my horror, realize this idiot of a neighbor has mistaken me for a tramp and locked me in. Three hours I was there for. I’m going to get him back.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

“

Before I moved here properly my company used to stick me in the Forum Hotel – now the Novotel Centrum. In those years it had a bit of a reputation as a gathering ground for prostitutes. Really, the lobby bar was 80% hookers and 20% hotel guests. Anyway, I’m upstairs flicking through the room service menu and settle for a mixed grill. Ten minutes later there’s a knock on my door and it’s a woman in high heels and mini-skirt. I realized what had happened straight away: reception thought I’d asked for a lady of mixed race and sent up this Eurasian stunner…”