Paarl History Stepping into Freedom One of the most unlikely places for a prison is the beautiful Drakenstein Valley between Paarl and Franschhoek. Here, along the winding R301, between historical wine farms and spectacular mountains is exactly where you’ll find the Drakenstein Correctional Centre (formerly known as Victor Verster Prison) from where Nelson Mandela took his first steps into freedom on 11th February 1990 after being imprisoned for twenty seven years. Since 18th July 2008, this prison has been home to a beautiful bronze statue of Madiba by internationally recognized sculptor, Jean Doyle. The statue was erected to mark the occasion of Madiba’s 80th birthday with him attending the unveiling. Unlike the statues of Mandela in Sandton and at the V&A
A river runs through it Paarl has the longest main road of any town in the country, measuring around 13km. The lay out of the town and development of this road was greatly influenced by two geographical factors, namely the Berg River and the Paarl Mountain range, which run parallel to each other. The consequence was of course that there is no traditional town centre that can easily be explored on foot. The Main Street is one of the best preserved historic streets in the country, but one where visitors will need to move from A to Z and back again to discover all the fine historical buildings, both modest and monumental, representing styles of the last 250 years. The newer suburbs are interspersed with greenery, big oaks, agricultural land and beautiful historical farmsteads, such as Laborie and Grande Roche in the heart of town, which gives it a charming rural atmosphere. For the enthusiast eager to see more examples of Cape Dutch architecture, there are many farmsteads in the immediate vicinity with well preserved buildings of historical significance, such as Vendôme, Nederburg, Rhebokskloof and the popular Spice Route.
Architectural gems Hans Fransen, an expert on South African architectural history, described the typical Paarl style in his book, Old Towns and Villages of the Cape, as: “iron roof veranda’d loft window houses, many of them late 19th century conversions of earlier Dutch homes”. These adaptations were necessary to survive the scorching summer months Paarl is known for. Pontac Manor house, set in its tranquil garden in the middle of Paarl, is a good example of this Val de Vie
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Waterfront, this one is quite off the beaten track and has not yet come into its own as a historic destination, although increasingly tour groups do stop there en route to their next wine tasting. The surrounding scenery provides a backdrop that few other statues can ever have architectural layering. There are many wellpreserved examples of architecture from most eras along the Main Road and there are walking tours on offer for those interested with a booklet called A Walking Tour of the Historic Heart of Paarl. A few highlights include the unmistakable Strooidakkerk, arguably the town’s most famous building. This is the oldest thatched roof church still in use in the country and it is a good example of the early vernacular Cape Dutch style with its cross design and triumphant convex, concave white-limed gables. Zeederberg Square, further down the road, has a well-preserved row of town houses with Victorian cast ironwork and wooden verandahs. No. 1, Zeederberg Square dates from 1848 and is a good example of a Cape Georgian style townhouse with its clean, straight lines and symmetry. Even Art Deco-lovers will be pleased to find perfect examples along the very same road like the old Protea Bioscope and some motor dealership buildings.
and although it is larger than life, the size and scale of this statue is completely realistic. These two factors also make for excellent photo opportunities. Although we knew and loved Madiba, as he is affectionately known, for his shuffle, this pose, a representation of what he looked like when he walked out towards freedom, is not just awe inspiring, it has immense historical significance. It is a snapshot of what happened on that day, a story cast in bronze. He has a triumphant right fist in the air; legs moving as he takes brisk steps away from captivity, wearing a suit and tie, with a broad smile playing on his face. It stirs emotions. It conjures up that proud feeling we as South Africans get whenever Nelson Mandela is mentioned, that 1995 Rugby World Cup feeling. It is imposing and inspiring because it is so real and so accurate. You can almost imagine this tall bronze man coming to life and you can hear that well-known voice saying: “I have walked that long road to freedom. I have tried not to falter; I have made missteps along the way. But I have discovered the secret that after climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. I have taken a moment here to rest, to steal a view of the glorious vista that surrounds me, to look back on the distance I have come. But I can rest only for a moment, for with freedom comes responsibilities, and I dare not linger, for my long walk is not yet ended”.
grapeVine magazine
- september 2015
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2015/09/15 10:30 AM