EDGE TRAVEL
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BAOBABS, LEMURS, A BIT OF RUM AND A BLOODY GOOD TRIP. THIS IS MADAGASCAR. words and images Greg Bertish
I first went over to explore the SW coast of Madagascar back in the late 90’s. I had crossed the Indian Ocean to find waves and to explore the coast after seeing some maps and hearing stories about amazing surf and kiteboarding spots. I was to meet my mate Jumpy and his catamaran in the big SW port town of Toliera. As is with Madagascar, things did not quite go as to plan. My plane from the Capital, Antananarivo, was delayed for 2 days, and Jumpy’s Yacht hit a whale and broke a rudder during the crossing. However, it all finally came together, and as they say, the rest is history. Located off the east coast of Africa, the Red Island is one of the poorest countries in the world, and by no means easy to travel and find surf. The second largest island after Australia, 4 time’s bigger than England, with 4th world poverty and very little infrastructure, yet I have come to love the place, its people and its waters. My first week was spent looking for a sail on the horizon, and hoping my floating home would arrive from across the sea. This delay in my plans turned out to be a blessing, as it allowed me to not only explore the South West coast, but also the South East. Toliera is a place with no equal. Rickshaws (Puss Puss’s) ply the streets for a measly 2000 Airy Airy per trip. Their drivers are lean and limber, and all but comfortable in their plastic sandals that look nothing more than lucky packet prizes. I hopped a Taxi Brusse (local Bus) and headed north, just a short few hours, to the more quintessential tropical beach and lagoon lined coast of Ifati. The crystal waters welcome all weary tourists traveling in from the great deserts and barren planes that cover this coast and interior for mile upon mile. The lagoons barrier is located far off shore, and the waters here are protected and still most mornings until the daily southern trade comes in to ruffle and tussle its water into a windsurfer and kiteboarders dream. The beach is lined by great Fir (type) trees and other palms. And nestled below these are quite a few Lodge, Resort and home stays. From rustic to Madagascan 4 star, there is almost something for all. I scubadived, snorkelled, surfed and windsurfed. I wondered inland and saw the Baobabs and unique coastal succulents and the magnificent spinney cactus forest. 30
URBAN EDGE MAG
JUNE 2012
When I received word that my boat was doing repairs and waiting for parts on Europa Island, I made plans to see some local attractions while I had time and local money to burn. From Toliera it’s just a short 1 hour flight across the base of the country to the antithesis of the dry and flat south west.
“...full throttle we wound our way through the coral reefs, the turquoise bays and the barren landscape to a little fishing village on the edge of nowhere.”
capital, people scattered and small children hid when my boards and I pulled in. And if the raw meat, road side toilets, and other mass chaos had not sent me home the first time, then the road ahead was to be no problem. All part of the adventure and always amazing to new comers is the Zebu (local Cow with a hump) cart ride, with boards and all, through the muddy shallows to the awaiting boats. Once aboard the boats we set off in search of the catamaran, full throttle we wound our way through the coral reefs, the turquoise bays and the barren landscape to a little fishing village on the edge of nowhere.
Landing in Fort Dauphin is something special. I’ve done it many times now and it still has not lost its magic. The white beaches and wild coast from the air is spectacular. Its mountains and Peak Louis, which towers over the town, are majestic and beautiful, providing a look and feeling of adventure . This village is one of a kind, situated on two mini peninsulas, lined by white beaches, which are backed by lush waterways, backed by thick and tropical mountain peaks. The beach of Libanona is lovely. Chez George serves amazing cocktails and seafood platters. The Lava Lodges wooden chalets nestle in the bays hills, and the Libanona Lodge’s rim flow pool looks out to the infinity of the Indian Ocean and horizon beyond. Only a short stroll away is a surfer’s dream wave, a South African run restaurant with amazing local cuisine and the town square with all manner of happenings at night and in the day. By night the new Disco is the place to laugh and experience the taste of local Rum and 3 Horses Beer. By day the local market will open your eyes and mind to just how rural and poor this world really is. I flew back to the West just 5 days later. The Cat had arrived but was now moored down the coast and all I had to do was get to her. Being pretty battle hardened by now and having travelled with surf & kite boards for the past 2 weeks I knew the deal. In the
And there she was. Tranquil looking, so clean and modern out in the bay. The catamaran, the Sweet Sunshine, was all that her name proclaimed. So I spent the next 2 weeks exploring the coast of the south by sea, living and loving the other side of the travel coin. I have since returned to Madagascar 8 times. I love her people and her Faddy (Local beliefs and rituals). I love her towns and cities; their mix of new Europe and old Africa. I love her highs and lows; her mountains, her canyons, her rivers and her hills. I love her by land and I love her by sea. This is Madagascar and there is no other place on earth like it.