(585) magazine March-April 2020 edition by JFM Publishing—(585) magazine / (585) Kids / Upstate Gardeners' Journal

HOME & CRAFT BEVERAGES DIALED IN South Wedge shop satisﬁes Euro cravings p.6

EXPLORE

HOME & CRAFT BEVERAGES

Local author Robert Glick’s Two Californias p.12

EXPLORE

Waterport’s unusual entrepreneurs p.18

TASTE

Discover French Week at Rooney’s p.57

HOME: A Keuka Lake carriage house p. 22

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2020 MAR • APR

CRAFT BEVERAGES: Make your own drink modifiers p. 37 March April 2020 585mag.com

MARCH | APRIL 2020

Features

20 HOME

We’ve got hope for the disorganized, a lakeside dream garage, and apartment decorating tips. Stories by Arlene Hisiger and Donna DePalma

37 CRAFT BEVERAGES

Upstate New York’s craft beverage scene is on fire— read all about it. Stories by Pete Wayner, Nancy E. McCarthy, and Erin Scherer

HOME & CRAFT BEVERAGES DIALED IN South Wedge shop satisﬁes Euro cravings p.6

EXPLORE Local author Robert Glick’s Two Californias p.12

EXPLORE

Waterport’s unusual entrepreneurs p.18

TASTE

Discover French Week at Rooney’s p.57

HOME: A Keuka Lake carriage house p. 22 CRAFT BEVERAGES: Make your own drink modifiers p. 37 March April 2020 585mag.com

ON THE COVER

Cover photo by Ashley Karschner Design by Josh Flanigan

Dialed in

Explore

Taste

Around town By (585) staff

Short stories long

By Christine Green

By Tanvi Asher

The chickens and the eggs

What2Where

By Hank Kula

If you build it, they will come By John Ernst

Plus, the (585) “Do list”

Voici le chef Lyonnaise By Leah Stacy

Cravable comfort By Naz Banu

Rescuing the daiquiri By Tomas Flint

Plus, our hand-selected (585) dining guide featuring rotating recommendations

In every issue 5

Deadlines, Hello (585)

Index of Advertisers

Seen

Photos from our January/February issue launch

Unplugged

The brewmeister By John Ernst

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Reading (585) allows us to explore the full artistry of living in upstate New York; it “inspires us to experience more of why we choose to live here!” —DAVE AND SANDRA SLUBERSKI (585) magazine ambassadors

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GROW

Little on the outside, big on the inside p.14

Building a stable society with mud, carrots, and hope p.18

GROW

HOME & DIY

TASTE

River Spring Lodge is a fixed-price couples getaway p.60 Paper tricks will have you excited for a new project

Love the atomicage look? Decorate retro-style

Paint cabinets the easy way with chalk paint

Welcome spring! The seasonal flower movement shows no sign of fading from favor

HOT Stuff Beet and Ginger Soup from Lento

JAN•FEB 2018

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DIALED IN It’s transition time in the (585) p.7

GROW

EXPLORE

Caffeine, comics, and culture in the East End p.18

Old-timey British bikes gain traction with locals p.14

GROW

Area designers serve up sage advice

Dining room table by Entrada Woodworking

Home $3.95 585MAG.COM

Everything about Mansa Wear is unique p.7

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Come as you are to Seneca Lake’s Stonecat Café p.60

EXTRA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTIONS & SUPPLEMENTS

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Jean-Pierre Thimot Josh Flanigan Jennifer Tudor Adam Van Schoonhoven Andrea Rowley, Kim Miers Kristen Thomas, Nicholas Vitello Jackie E. Davis Michael Hanlon, Kate Melton John Ernst Abby Rose Esposito, Chrisom B., Greg Hollar, Hank Kula, Tomas Flint Tanvi Asher, Naz Banu, Donna De Palma, Tina Etshman, Tomas Flint, Christine Green, Arlene Hisiger, Hank Kula, Nancy E. McCarthy, Michelle Shippers, Erin Scherer, Leah Stacy, Jinelle Vaiana, Pete Wayner

Phyllis Mangefrida Rexford Johnson Caroline Kunze Keren Green, Mary Beth Holly, Robin Kurss, Robin Lenhard, Betty Tata, Lori Teibel Terri Downey

What we do: FOLKLORE & FAIRY TALES DIALED IN Luci & Dona’s postmodern fantasy p.8

GROW

Katrina Randall’s magical journey p.10

EXPLORE

Moulin D’Paris—not your everyday ballet p.16

TASTE

Ristorante Lucano keeps it good and simple p.59

Meet Daniel Armbruster of Joywave p. 80 Yellow in the winter garden p. 40

(585) kids .....................48 January February 2020 585mag.com

(585) magazine Upstate Gardeners’ Journal (585) Hot Off the Press Custom Publishing Happy Hours

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

All about summer camps

Senior living .................53 A sense of community

SUBSCRIPTIONS To order or renew a subscription online, visit 585mag.com and select the “Subscribe” tab. For personal service, call 1-585-413-0040. All major credit cards are accepted. New subscriptions will begin with the next scheduled issue. CHANGE OF ADDRESS Please send all address changes, whether temporary or permanent, with effective date(s) to 585subscriptions@585mag. com, or call 1-585-413-0040. Address changes will take effect with the next scheduled issue. FEEDBACK We’d love to hear what you think! Send us a letter to editor@585publishing. com. By mail, contact us at: Letters to the Editor, 585 Publishing, 1501 East Avenue, Rochester, NY 14610. DEADLINES FOR LISTINGS Calendar listing deadlines for our upcoming issues are as follows:

Hello (585) A handful of years ago I experienced French Week at Rooney’s in Rochester’s South Wedge neighborhood for the first time. Since then it’s become a tradition to visit during the ten-day run of le chef Lyonnaise at least twice, preferably three times. Last year it dawned on me that the menu is more or less the same every year, and that if we photographed it while le chef was still in town, we could print a story the following year that would come out just in time. I ran the idea past Rooney’s owner Joe Squalli and he agreed … and then told me the fascinating tale of how French Week came about in the first place fourteen years ago. Suddenly it was no longer just about the haute cuisine, but, like all great stories, really about the people involved. On the adventurous eats front, please welcome out newest columnist Naz Banu, who will be probing the region for little-known restaurants and unexpected cuisine starting with Young’s Korean in this issue. Banu hails from Singapore, which she claims makes her particularly well suited to writing about food. (I didn’t understand this, never having been there, but I googled it and turns out Singapore does have an internationally well-regarded restaurant scene.) You can follow Naz on Instagram at @tablefornaz.

For May/June 2020 issue: Mar. 15 For July/August 2020 issue: May 15 For September/October 2020 issue: Jul. 15 For November/December 2020 issue: Sept. 15 ADVERTISING If you’d like to learn about advertising in an upcoming issue of (585), you can view our advertising rate card and mechanical requirements at 585mag.com. ON THE WEB Visit 585mag.com to take a tour of the current issue, get exclusive webextras content, check out our latest blog posts, or review our dining guide.

The craft beverage boom in upstate New York does not show any signs of slowing down—frankly, it’s tough to keep track of all of the new (and not so new) breweries, wineries, cideries, and distilleries. That’s why we asked our friends at Yelp to come up with a comprehensive list to go along with our coverage in this issue—you can find it in the dining guide. Did we miss something? Let us know. There is a lot more to enjoy in this issue, from apartment décor tips and tricks to an entire village in the midst of a makeover. As always, thanks for reading!

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RENTAL LIST ADVISORY On occasion, (585) magazine makes available its mailing list to companies in which we feel our readers may have an interest. If you do not want us to share your name, please write to: Circulation, 585 magazine, 1501 East Avenue, Rochester, NY 14610. PLEASE RECYCLE THIS MAGAZINE PRINTED BY Selfie in the mirror over the bar during French Week at Rooney’s, 2017. (585) March/April 2020. Published six times a year. Published bimonthly. Copyright ©2020 by JFM Publishing, LLC 1501 East Avenue, Rochester, NY 14610. Telephone (585) 413-0040. Fax (585) 413-0296. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any text or graphics without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Send change of address to JFM Publishing, LLC, 1501 East Avenue, Rochester, NY 14610. Domestic subscription rates: $12/one year, $18/two years. Single issue: $3.95 U.S. Newsstand distribution is handled by Wolfe News Service, Inc. (585) assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. A self-addressed stamped envelope must accompany all such submissions for possible return.

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Dialed in Around town | What2Where

Around town By John Ernst

Renowned sculptor and alumnus featured at RIT University Gallery Until March 7, Rochester Institute of Technology’s exhibition of Susan Ferrari Rowley’s work is on display at the University Gallery. With two graduate degrees from RIT, as well as four years teaching at the college, she returns to her alma mater for this site-specific creation. Rowley, whose work is known for fusing the worlds of textile and sculpture, has been featured at a number of prolific exhibitions around the world, notably “Young Americans: Fiber, Plastic, Wood,” where the American Crafts Council selects the country’s fifty top artists to honor; the Arts and Cultural Council of Rochester’s honor of Visual Artist of the Year; and a 2018 inclusion in the Venice Biennial of Architecture. Future exhibitions include another invitation to Venice for the 2020 Biennial along with a small handful of other Americans. Rowley will also be featured this summer in Cincinnati’s Public Art Projects exhibit.

George Eastman Museum receives $600,000 grant to restore historic garden structures Covering two-thirds of the estimated cost of the project, the New York State Office for Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation’s grant boosts the museum’s effort to restore important and historic structures throughout George Eastman’s renowned garden. Rochester’s dynamic climate has weathered several of the museum’s original constructions, including the Schuyler C. Townson Terrace Garden pergola, the grape arbor in the Rock Garden, and the loggia in the West Garden. Throughout Eastman’s lifetime, these structures were used for relaxation and entertaining and the backdrop for much of Kodak’s promotional photography. 6

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

#ADKCoast Hikes Always wanted to hike the Adirondacks but didn’t know where to start? The Adirondack Coast Visitors Bureau wants to help. Dubbed #ADKCoast Hikes, these beginner hikes and starter adventures are exactly the entry you need into New York’s breathtaking six million acres of wilderness and culture. Visit goadirondack.org to start planning your summer trips and look in the next issue for (585)’s experience at one of the Adirondacks’ most notable attractions—the Wild Center.

Dialed in | Around town

Underpants and Overbites, A Diary Comic! By Jackie E. Davis

Photos provided

Genesee Country Village & Museum events celebrate maple syrup Celebrate all things maple sugar with the GCVM this March and April! Starting with the Maple Sugar Festival & Pancake Breakfast, visitors can follow the Nature Center’s Maple History Trail to learn about how syrup creation has evolved, experience a hands-on opportunity to be part of the process, and indulge in an all-out pancake breakfast prepared by the museum’s culinary staff. In April, come back for the Maple Sugar Soiree, a twenty-oneand-over event with music, maplethemed food and drinks, and a muchneeded campfire to celebrate local nature and craftsmanship. Maple Sugar Festival & Pancake Breakfast: March 22, 23, 28, & 29 Maple Sugar Soiree: April 4, ages 21+, reservations required

Craft Beverage Trail Passport Winter Wine Weekdays Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel partners with Seneca Lake Wine Trail to offer an affordable winter getaway in the center of Upstate New York’s celebrated Finger Lakes wine scene. A VIP Tasting Pass gives visitors access to seventeen wineries, as well as dining discounts and complimentary souvenirs. Room rates start at $159 the first night, with fifty percent discount each consecutive night. For more information, visit senecalakewine.com.

The Rochester/Finger Lakes Craft Beverage Trail presents its 2020 Passport, an affordable and easy way to explore New York’s craft breweries and distilleries. The Passport—which costs $20—offers more than $100 in savings and discounts at twenty-two locations across the state. This partnership between Finger Lakes Visitors Connection, Visit Rochester, Livingston County Tourism, Wayne County Tourism, and dozens of independent breweries, wineries, distilleries, and cideries offers incentives for road trip adventures as well as local visits until January 2021. For more information, visit ROCFLXCraftBevTrail.com/Passport or call (585) 394-3915. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

Dialed In | What2Where

Hoarders next door

South Wedge shop satisfies Euro cravings Words and styling by Tanvi Asher Photos by Greg Hollar

A highlight of my sojourns in Europe has been to shop for distinct Franco-inspired fashions that seem impossible to find at home. But over the years, the proliferation of chain stores in Prague and Vienna (and easy access to French luxury brands at home) has made it challenging to find unique pieces. As a longtime aficionado 8

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

of designer-resale and vintage stores, I find few things more satisfying than tracking down accouterments that whisper “Fabriqué à Paris”—without paying retail. That’s why I was thrilled to find Little Shop of Hoarders, a secondhand shop in the South Wedge. This carefully curated venue is filled with high-end designer

jackets, bags, boots and jewelry—many from classic Par isian ready-to-wear brands. While paying for my haul of a cashmere blazer by Angelo Tarlazzi and a vintage belt buckle, I learned that the owner, Monika Ludwinek, is passionate about catering to Rochester’s exacting tastes and passion for a deal.

Ludwinek’s shop is well organized. Rows of leather jackets, tuxedos, blazers, silk blouses, cashmere sweaters, furs and cocktail dresses beckon from hangers. Vitrines are piled with jewelry, wallets, sunglasses, and, of course, scarves. Since I couldn’t pick a specific era, we decided to feature some of Ludwinek’s favorite pieces here. In terms of classic styles, few women have captivated the fashion world quite like Ali MacGraw. The Love Story actress, who turns 81 this month, set the tone for chic style in the 1970s: belted flares, miniskirts 585mag.com | March/April 2020

Dialed In | What2Where

with white boots, and pretty printed blouses with a bohemian air. Her sartorial presence could be felt all Fashion Month, as well, by way of the subtler take on the ’70s that returned to the streets. Our take on the ’70s features a printed shirt from the period paired with high-waist pants from the ’60s. Coordinate this dynamic duo with a pair of comfortable brogues for a feminine look that’s both chic and functional.

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Dialed In | What2Where

A team favorite was the absolutely adorable ’60s striped romper. Pair either piece with a moto jacket for a perfect early-spring “Outfit of the Day.” Our final featured look is a gorgeous colorful ‘60s sweater dress with a clean A-line silhouette, paired with flat boots. Great news for fans of bygone styles: you can channel your favorite fashionable era without appearing to have been sucked through a time warp. Rather than crafting a headto-toe retro look, the key is to take stylish cues from a given period and bring it a step closer to our time. Check out all the featured looks at Little Shop of Hoarders on 131 Gregory Street in Rochester’s South Wedge and on Instagram as @littleshop_of_hoarders

TEAM: MODEL ALEXIS REYES HAIR BY AMANDA TORRES OF AMETHYST SALON MUA JOSEPH ROTHROCK FOR BLUSH BEAUTY BAR

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Explore Literary scene | Do list | Entrepreneur

Short stories long

Local author’s new collection flows like a novel By Christine Green

To many born-and-bred Rochesterians, California seems like a faraway dream: beaches, movie stars, and palm trees in the south; hippies, fog, and Silicon Valley in the North. But “NoCal” and “SoCal” are more than their stereotypes. Like the rest of the country, California is a state with a complicated human landscape. Robert Glick, an associate professor of English at Rochester Institute of Technology, explores these landscapes with humor and tenderness in his new collection of short stories, Two Californias (C&R Press, 2019). “We tend to see California in kind of a Hollywood way, and it gets overly simplified tremendously into tropes. My hope is just that by letting tiny sections of the underbellies of California exist in a complex way, that people will start to break down or question the kind of monolithic way we think of California where the hippies live in San Francisco and the surfers live in Southern California.Those are small 12

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bits of much larger phenomena. Even the underbellies I touch are one small part— a tiny, tiny part—of the tremendous and incredible diversity of California.” Although each tale in Two Californias can stand on its own legs, the collection reads as smoothly as any novel, with a thematic and emotional cohesiveness that keeps the reader turning the pages, wanting more. Rachel Marston is an associate professor of English at the College of Saint Benedict & Saint John’s University in Minnesota. She was impressed with Glick’s collection and agrees that Two Californias is novelesque in its story order. “Story collections don’t always feel like they have that sense of scope you might get in a novel,” she remarks. “So, when you read one like Robert’s, it really creates that feeling of being able to capture you and draw you in even as you change narratives and narrators, and it builds thematically. And that’s really rare, and I think therefore super exciting and a testament to his skill.”

While Glick touches on many themes in his collection—one that takes center stage is grief and how people cope with loss. His characters move through the grief that comes with death but also the pain of divorce, the uncertainty of illness, and the tenuousness of love. Glick says that he is interested in “how people negotiate and navigate the world that is largely unfamiliar to them after something happens. Grief is complicated, and there is often some bad behavior in that.” But it isn’t a simple process for any of the book’s characters, and Glick successfully challenges the notion that grief is a linear or predictable step-by-step process. He tears apart not only the misguided idea that there are only two types of Californians who live along the western coastline but that human emotion—sadness, love, joy— is simple in any way. “My hope is that there is a number of binary oppositions that are set up in the collection that break down this same way

Explore | Literary Scene that the notion of California breaks down. One of them is how we grieve.” Shena McAuliffe is an assistant professor of fiction at Union College in Schenectady who appreciates how Glick explores grief and love in his book. “These stories erase what I mistakenly thought was binary: I lose track of what’s ‘high’ and what’s ‘low,’ of question and answer, of grief and love, which are, of course, inextricable in the end.” Glick’s solid plots and astute insights are written with a beautiful attention to language and the lyrical. Some stories, like “Mermaid Anatomy,” are poetic in quality yet never lose a sense of direction or groundedness. Melodic lines such as: “Remembering dimly that to save the mermaid from seafoam I must recognize her as the creature who saved me from the shipwreck,” (page 93) butt up against the fact that in the next scene the central characters are readying themselves to cut off the head of a Little Mermaid statue with a chainsaw. The unexpected weaves its way through Two Californias and McAuliffe likens reading it to “eating a bowl of Fruit Loops while reading philosophy: the sugar melts on your tongue while your brain keeps spinning. But this comparison leaves out the heartbreak that always guts me in the end of Robert’s stories—or maybe heartbreak is what happens when you embody tough questions and humorous cultural critique in quirky, smart characters.” Glick hopes to have his next book, The Paradox of Wonder Woman’s Airplane, done by the end of 2020. The novel looks at a white suburban family that have been sheltering themselves in their insular upper-class world. But what happens when things fall apart, and this protected life seems to spiral out of control? The book will also be accompanied by numerous digital artifacts such as phone apps, hidden comments on an html webpage, and CAD drawings. It asks the reader to think about what it means to get the “whole story.” (Don’t worry—traditionalists can read the novel in its print form without exploring the digital content if they so desire.) When he isn’t writing, Glick likes to spend time with his partner, professor and writer Anne Royston. He says, “it’s a quiet life. It’s not a very exciting story!” But if you run into him, ask him about his collection of barf bags, his classes on zombies and race, and being a wedding officiant. To learn more about Glick and his work and to get a sneak peek at The Paradox of Wonder Woman’s Airplane, visit his webpage, robertglick.com. Christine Green is a freelance writer, teaching artist, and writing coach. Learn more at christinejgreen.com.

The Do List | Mar/Apr Except where noted, all events take place in area code (585). Have an event of your own to publicize? You can add it to our online calendar at 585mag.com. You may also email details to editor@585mag.com. MAR 3

MAR 7

MAR 14

BLUE MAN GROUP

RMSC Uncorked & On Tap

The Little Mermaid — In Concert Live to Film

ONGOING

that won’t interfere with the regular DeTOURS, which occur the third Thursday of each month.

The Path to Paradise: Judith Schaechter’s Stained-Glass Art

The Memorial Art gallery brings you a huge exhibition of the incredibly intricate and marvelous works from Schaechter’s thirtyseven-year career as a stained glass artist. Memorial Art Gallery, 500 University Ave. (276-8900 or mag.rochester.org)

MAR 1

Adopt-a-Maple PLUS

The first week of March is your last chance to head down to Kettle Ridge Farm and get to taste a freshly tapped maple tree, which you can adopt and receive benefits from all year long.

Through March. Kettle Ridge Farm, 515 Log Cabin Rd. Victor (217-7108 or kettleridgefarm.com)

MAR 3

BLUE MAN GROUP

The world-famous blue trio returns to touring with their SPEECHLESS tour, bringing their unique brand of comedy and music to the Auditorium Theatre. Through Mar 5. Rochester Broadway Theatre League, 885 East Main St. (222-5000 mail@rbtl.org)

MAR 4

Photos by Michael Hanlon

The Academy of American Poets founded National Poetry Month in 1996. This monthlong celebration of poetry is celebrated around the world every April. Learn more about ways to read and share poetry this month by visiting poets. org. For information about readings, workshops, and other poetry events happening in Rochester this month check out ... • Writers & Books • Just Poets • Bloom Poetry • Flour City Readings at the Yards • Poetry & Pie Night

• Rochester Spoken Word • BOA Editions • The College of Brockport’s Writers Forum • The University of Rochester’s Plutzick Reading Series

... and finally, don’t forget to hop over to your local library.

Many of the great options in our calendar are offered at no cost. Keep an eye out for Honest Abe. He’ll point you to FREE events.

Cry It Out

A writer of the hit show Shamless brings you this comedy show that takes an honest look at some of life’s classic challenges, like raising a baby, finding friends, and dealing with that person watching you from the mansion overlooking your yard. Through Mar 22. Geva Theatre 75 Woodbury Blvd. (232-4382 or gevatheatre.org)

MAR 5

DeTOURS with MAG

Join composer and RPO musical director Ward Stare for his own spin on MAG’s special series of themed guided tours. This is a special date

Memorial Art Gallery, 500 University Ave.(276-8900 or mag.rochester.org)

MAR 6

6X6 Make Art Day

Keep an eye out for local parties and events as Rochester Contemporary Art Center is declaring March 6 is 6X6 Make Art Day. Stop by RoCo itself for an entire day of artists of all ages creating 6X6 artworks that RoCo will put on display in the coming months. Rochester Contemporary Art Center, 13 East Ave (461-2222 or rochestercontemporary.org)

MAR 7

Yesterday and Today

More than just a simple cover band, this Beatles tribute features live audience interaction as they explore the personal connections and memories behind the music of the fab four. Nazareth College Arts Center, 4245 East Ave. (389-2170 or artscenter@ naz.edu)

RMSC Uncorked & On Tap

No kids allowed at this annual museum event. Enjoy three floors of regional wine, beer, and food as you move between tastings and seminars set right alongside the RMSC’s current exhibits. Rochester Museum and Science Center, 657 East Ave. (271-4320 or rmsc.org)

MAR 12 GardenScape

Join Rochester’s top artists, gardeners, and landscapers as they transform the Dome into a garden paradise. Amazing new products, plants, and designs will be available for purchase or just for a wonderful view. Through Mar 15. The Dome Arena, 2695 East Henrietta Rd. (rochesterflowershow.com)

MAR 14

The Little Mermaid — In Concert Live to Film

Join the RPO for a very special viewing of Disney’s classic The Little Mermaid at Kodak Hall. Experience the critically acclaimed soundtrack preformed by a live orchestra in time with the beloved animation. Kodak Hall at Eastman Theatre, 26 Gibbs St. (454-2100 or rpo.org)

Hello Dolly!

This revival of the four -time Tony Award winning musical has been delighting audiences with a brand -new tour, and now it’s making one more stop right here in Rochester. Through Mar 22. Rochester Auditorium Theatre, 885 East Main St. (222-5000 or rbtl.org)

MAR 21

Jason Vieaux: An Evening in Granada

Experience the mastery and soulfulness of premiere classical guitarist Jason Vieaux in this one-nightonly performance right here in Rochester. Hochstein School of Music, 50 Plymouth Ave. (jasonvieaux.eventbrite.com)

MAR 27 Silent Sky

This critically acclaimed play follows the dramatic yet humor-filled life of Henrietta Leavitt as she and her peers must navigate the hardships of being a female astronomer in early-1900s’ America. Through Apr 11. Blackfrairs Theatre, 795 East Main St. (454-1260 or blackfriars.org)

MAR 28

Vineyard Workshop

Ever wondered what it’d be like to own your own vineyard? Just outside of the 585 on the shore of Cayuga Lake, Sheldrake Point is offering guests a chance to find out, with an interactive all-day tour, letting you experience the process of the wine they provide. Sheldrake Point Winery 7448

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Explore | Entrepreneur

The chickens and the eggs

A former sales engineer finds his true calling in farming By Hank Kula

The soft purr of peeping baby chicks is disrupted as the farmer lifts the roof of the brooder. A panicked mass of downy fluff runs for the far corner. One chick doesn’t move. Suddenly it can enjoy space under the heat lamp. But the mass panic is brief. Another chick breaks ranks, and the faint-yellow crowd follows. After all, a chick has to eat and stay warm. Roof openings have become ordinary. What isn’t ordinary is the farmer. Kevin Smith—a sales engineer with a degree in biology from Cornell—traded job security as an account manager at Rochester’s Teknic Inc. to raise chickens. Who does that? Confronted with the question, if Smith has any trace of apprehension for leaving 14

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his corporate roots, he doesn’t show it. He worked and completed his engineering internship at Teknic during college. Upon graduation, he joined the company full time and stayed for more than eight years. He gave away his first eggs there and gained his work ethic from the guy who hired him. “He definitely taught me the value of hard work. He’s always working later than everybody else,” Smith says of Teknic vice president Warren God. “He holds honesty to the highest degree, to the highest moral standard. When I first got hired, he said, ‘Don’t ever do anything in your business dealings that you wouldn’t want your family to read about in the newspaper.’ I’ve never forgotten that.”

Smith cuts his own path and hasn’t stopped with a career shift. He’s not out to debunk unfair stereotyping of his much-maligned millennial generation, but he does. Smith plans. He works hard. He’s married. He and wife, Kate, bought a house and started a farm in Walworth: the Pasture Stand. So much for lazy, coddled, self-absorbed, never-grow-up millennial stereotypes. “My wife doesn’t even like eggs,” Smith laughs.“It probably started with me putting a book down and saying, ‘I want to start a farm.’ There were a lot of conversations. I probably said that fifty to 100 more times before she was like, ‘Okay, start a farm.’” Amid hopes and dreams, their farm conversations included calculations, strategy, planning, and risk assessment.

Photos by Hank Kula

Explore Smith’s appetite for books on farming was fed by belief in himself and revitalizing the environment. It didn’t hurt he had experience in supply chain management, product reliability and testing, research and development, and data analysis. The Smiths believe in investing, living conservatively, and saving. They even buck economics that trend against their generation. It took three years to financially position themselves to jump into farming fulltime. It helps that Kate is also a teacher. “We had to work together to define what kind of farm it was going to be and what kind of life we were going to have,” Smith says. “Can we maintain the life we were building while having the farm and how? Where does this stop if this doesn’t work? Once we worked all those things out, our fears went away.” Smith knows something about fear and uncertainty. He recalls college frustration. “I hated my biology degree. I was really lost for a couple years. I really felt a lot of stress about not knowing what I wanted to do. Being at Cornell? You’re surrounded by people who seem to know what they want to do for the rest of their lives. I had no clue.” Tur ns out, Cor nell, the premiere agricultural school, had little to do with Smith becoming a farmer. Nor did two years as an ornithology research assistant push him to raise birds. Time at Teknic clued him in. While in his engineering internship, Smith helped the company attract fresh talent. “They asked if I would help them craft the hiring process for sales. So I read a bunch of sales books I really liked and did mock sales calls. I found sales and I really liked it.” He loved working at Teknic, but something was missing. “Even when I was a little kid, I loved nature and the environment,” he says. “I always loved the idea of preserving whatever nature we had but also kind of regenerating what we had lost. Even when I was a little kid it occurred to me that people had the capacity to destroy the environment for their own gain. I always was enamored with the idea of sort of reversing some of that, or regenerating it, because I think nature is beautiful.” Both his grandfathers maintained huge gardens, and as a child he convinced his parents to do the same at their Fairport home. He and his brother hunted, fished, and camped with their father. He says his love of cooking comes from his mother as does his pursuit of the best tasting, healthiest ingredients. Looking back, Smith realizes that even in his youth, he imagined ways to make businesses out of his hobbies. “I’ve always just been kind of passionate 585mag.com | March/April 2020

Explore | Entrepreneur

about that sort of thing, so when I found regenerative farming, which is all about healing the land, creating delicious food, and proper animal husbandry—that just really appealed to me—that side of me that I’ve always had, even when I was little.” Familial influences made the toughest part of the Smiths’ plan presenting it to Smith’s paternal grandmother and his parents, Craig and Mary Jo Smith of Fairport. They were convinced. A farm was born. The Pasture Stand’s origins began in May 2018 when Smith bought fifteen egg16

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

laying hens for personal use. Extra eggs went to colleagues at Teknic. “We were swimming in eggs, but when I didn’t bring them in, or when I ran out, people would actually get mad,” he recalls. Pasture feeding results in high-quality, larger eggs that yield higher levels of proteins and nutrients with almost orange yolks and better taste. People noticed, and the demand prompted Smith to contemplate farming. He found the missing piece. It wasn’t proverbial happiness but something more substantial.

“I didn’t have any purpose in my last job. Man, it’s such a ‘Millennial’ thing to say,” he admits, “but it’s a question I get, especially from my old coworkers: ‘Are you really happy now?’ Maybe. I find a lot of purpose in what I’m doing. If I am happier, it’s because I find my work purposeful. “This type of farming helps heal the land. It gives animals a really good life. It’s the most delicious, healthy food I could possibly give to my community, my family. This is what I want to eat. And I love to eat. I love cooking. I don’t want to eat

Explore anything else. I feel useful, and I like that. That’s what I wanted.” Visitors to the Pasture Stand won’t find any hipster vibe. Smith is more pragmatic businessman and conservationist than activist but has similar altruistic intents. And it’s more than a farm. Each living thing contributes. Where animals are concerned, Smith truly cares about each relatively short life. From the moment his charges arrive in a box from the supplier to when they’re harvested, he believes providing them the healthiest life translates onto the plate in taste and nutrition. He sees his caring as an integral ingredient of the healthy cycle between creature, pasture, and environment. At the foundation of pasture-raised, regenerative farming is a rejection of pesticides, fertilizers, and hor moneenhanced feeds. Almost maverick reliance on the land and hard work avoids the shortcuts that bring mass-marketed poultry and other products to stores. Smith even rejects government “organic” certification as contrived. He suggests it works against truly “beyond organic” poultry and produce. The Smiths refuse to apply for government grants that otherwise might help grow their enterprise. In little more than a year, the Pasture Stand has grown to offer pasture-raised broiler chickens, holiday turkeys, pastured eggs, and raw unfiltered honey. Gourmet mushrooms and pastured pig are on tap. Through e-commerce the farm even schedules deliveries of its products. Science, sensibility, and sustainability. Passion and pur pose. Lear ning and perfecting a process means success and satisfaction. As far as Smith is concerned, farming isn’t just about profit, though he’s confident that will come because he and Kate have a plan that includes room for bumps. If there’s a drawback for Smith, it’s the discovery that farming is a solitary venture. Save for his dog, Roy, and a brace of Cayuga ducks he’s raised to promote the breed, he’s not unlike the solitary chick under the heat lamp. But he misses interaction with people. “The hardest thing about the farm is that I’m never around people,” he said. “I don’t like not being around people. It’s constant solitude. My goal if this is successful is to hire people. To be around more people. You have to work together to accomplish some greater goal. I love that.” To that end, the Smiths already solved the solitude problem. They’re expecting. Thepasturestand.com Hank Kula is a freelance writer, photographer, and instructor based in Rochester. He can be found on LinkedIn, Instagram and at KulaImagery.com.

Providing exceptional quality with unique design for 20 years

Vertical Elegance 823 Fairport Rd Ste 1

Mon-Fri: 10:00 am - 4:30 pm Sat: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm 585-641-2152 www.verticalelegance.com Visit our Gallery Showroom 585mag.com | March/April 2020

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If you build it, they will come

Harvey and Lauren Rayner have big plans for their rural town—greenhouses, workshops, residency programs, tiny homes, and maybe even a coffee shop and English pub. But it all starts with a rustic-chic bed and breakfast. By John Ernst

Though you wouldn’t know it from the outside, Harvey and Lauren Rayner’s folksy two-story Waterport abode houses a cushion factory, a software development and web design firm, an up-and-coming real estate mogul, and a professional horticulturist. The Rayners grow most of their own food, make homemade wine, kiln-dry their own pottery, maintain a successful company that ships internationally, and are flipping homes in their neighborhood. And they’d love to teach you any of it. Having raised two daughters in Harvey’s home area of the English countryside, in 2012 the Rayners moved to Waterport. While in the UK, Lauren worked as a florist with her own nursery business, Harvey worked odd jobs while experimenting with graphic arts and animation, teaching himself software and web development, and designing a new greenhouse technology. Today, the Rayners’ main source of income is an ergonomically designed meditation cushion inspired by Harvey’s own history with the practice. “I designed 18

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

a cushion for myself, first and foremost, just because I used to experience a lot of butt pain,” Harvey says in his British accent. “Even after meditating regularly for ten years, I still had that problem. So I created a cushion, Lauren helped me sew the different prototypes, and it took like twenty iterations—the first couple looked really… obscene,” he smiles. Shortly before moving to the United States, they perfected the formula and began selling their cushions on eBay. “Within the first six months of living here, it became clear neither of us needed to get a job,” Harvey says, “The cushions were reliable enough. We’re not millionaires, but we live comfortably with something left over for projects.” Waterport rests along Oak Orchard Creek, winding sixty minutes west of Rochester. Since its high point of thirty-three stores in the 1930s, the hamlet’s industrial plants are long vacant and the yearlong population has dwindled to a diverse hodgepodge of artisans and craftspeople who work out of their homes, making a living on websites

like Etsy. As such, the post office thrives— “That’s the only thing left in the village,” says Lauren. “Every time I go there to drop off a shipment, there are always people bringing in packages.These little businesses are the only reason it’s still there.” Aside from the Rayners’ meditation cushion business, Waterport’s community includes a canoe maker, an alpaca yarn business, a cartographer, a man who makes dolls, someone who sells old tractor parts, and the Rayners’ youngest daughter, who sells custom upholstery. “It might be because of the lake here; I mean, that’s the main asset to the whole village,” says Harvey. “If you’re going to work at home, you’re going to live near either a mountain or a lake or a forest, right?” Water por t attracts fisher men and outdoor enthusiasts, but despite its robust network of local makers, residents need to travel to nearby towns for amenities and entertainment. That’s why, when for the first time the Rayners had money left over after paying bills, they decided to

Explore | Entrepreneur

MAR 28

APR 25

ELTON!

Symphony for Our World

Imagine RIT

County Rd. 153, Ovid (607532-9401 or whitney@ sheldrakepoint.com)

Ugly Disco

Come in your best 70’s style to get your groove on at the 17th annual Ugly Disco, a funky bash to benefit Golisano Children’s Hospital. Rochester RiversideConvention Center, 123 East MainSt. (uglydisco.com)

Photos by Michael Hanlon

ELTON!

invest in the community. “It’s partly selfish, in that we want to live in a nice place,” Harvey confesses. “If you create beautiful places and interesting projects, one would hope you’d attract interesting people. What’s the saying? ‘If you build it, they will come,’” he says in his best American accent. So, what to do with the extra money felt like a natural choice; they began buying properties in their neighborhood with a unique—and ambitious—plan. Initially, Harvey’s vision for his first Airbnb property was clean and modern But, to save money after his initial investment, he started salvaging and refinishing old wood. “I ended up liking the character of the salvaged wood more than the new, and then I got excited and just ran with it,” he says. “It was a lot of work, but I wanted to create a space that’s really comfortable to be in, where you don’t have to worry too much about spilling the tea.” He feels that in an ultra-modern space where everything looks perfect, there’s a subconscious pressure to be perfect yourself. “Whereas in a place like this, I’d hope people feel more relaxed, more accepted. You don’t have to worry about if the dog gets up on the couch or scratches on the floors, because they’re already scratched to hell,” he laughs. In a small-population rural town, there’s no shortage of salvageable wood and antiques. And Harvey doesn’t just repurpose the lumber; in a humble way, there’s true artistry to his style. Clothes hangers in the closet dangle from an old wooden oar instead of a rod. Refurbished cart wheels act as bedside tables. And the property even encourages customers to create art of their own with a pottery shop in the basement. Once the interior is finished, Harvey plans on building a greenhouse sunroom extension, as well as a 50’ x 25’, two-storytall greenhouse next door. While living in the UK, Harvey built a prototype of an innovative insulation system. “You have a double skin, with a cavity in the middle,” he explains, holding his hands out parallel to each other, “and you fill that cavity with liquid soap bubbles to create an envelope of insulation.” During the day, he says, the sun melts the bubbles into a shady insulative layer that acts like cloud cover. With their prototype in England, the Rayners were able to keep subtropical plants healthy throughout winter. “So it functions a number of ways; it provides food throughout the year, it helps to humidify the air in the winter, and also it’s like a big solar collector … You can use it to help heat the house, basically.” Beyond its horticultural and energy-generating purposes, the greenhouse will function as a common space—especially with the tiny house community Harvey intends to eventually build. “People want to get out of their houses in the middle of winter and get into a space where there are plants and warmth from the sun, have a shower, and sit around and have a coffee with some friends.” Harvey explains that it wouldn’t be a commercial growing space but more of a

Bring your best shoes and strangest glasses for the Rochester Gay Men’s Chorus’s celebration of the wonderful Sir Elton John, featuring epic and vibrant performances of his greatest hits. Hochstein Performance Hall,50 North Plymouth Ave. (423-0650 or thergmc.org)

MAR 31 Looks Like Pretty

In 1963, Kodak was revolutionizing color film right here in Rochester. This play follows the fictitious lives of employees of different sexes and races as they work on this project and call into question the importance of color. Through Apr 26. Geva Theatre, 885 East Main St. (232-4382 or gevathetre.org)

APR 4

Family Sleepover at the Zoo

Ever wondered what the zoo is like at night? Bring the kids for a special educational sleep-over at Seneca Park, featuring a meet-and-greet with some friendly animals and an exclusive night tour. Seneca Park Zoo 2222 St. Paul St.(336-7200 or reception@senecazoo.org)

Easter Bunny Express

Bring the whole family to Arcade & Attica Railroad for a special train ride with the Easter Bunny. Enjoy a nice ride through the country, featuring a special stop to hunt for Easter eggs. A&A Railroad, 278 Main St., Arcade (716-948-0505 or aarailroad.com)

APR 13

Dyngus Day at Polska Chata

If you have any friends from Buffalo, they might have told you about the city’s big yearly

celebration of Dyngus Day. However if Buffalo is a bit too far, this Rochester restaurant and bakery has you covered with its own huge party featuring live music, great events, and traditional Polish food. Polska Chata, 32 Vinedale Ave. (266-4480 or polskachata.us)

APR 16 Chaplin

This bombastic musical recounts the story of the film legend Charlie Chaplin’s rise to stardom from his rough childhood to making it big in the newborn film industry. Through Apr 19. Nazareth College Arts Center, 4245 East Ave. (389-2170 or naz.edu/events)

APR 17

ROC CITY Tattoo Expo

Love Hate Tattoo presents Upstate New York’s premier tattooing event. Featuring vendors and artists hand selected from the US, Canada, Europe, and Japan, this weekend event is a must for fans of the art. Through Apr 19 Holiday Inn, 70 State St. (roccitytattoexpo.com)

APR 18 Brilliant Glass in Corning

Whether you’re looking to buy high-quality glass from top sellers and creators or simply want to experience the brilliant artistry, this educational show and sale is great for anyone and free with admission to the museum. Through Apr 19. Corning Museum of Glass, 1 Museum Way (607-937-5371)

APR 22

Where Did We Sit On The Bus?

This one-man tour-deforce is a live hip-hop autobiography detailing the writer’s thoughts and experiences relating to a binary culture of race from the prospective of a young Latino. Through May 10.Geva Theatre, 75 Woodbury Blvd. (2324382 or gevatheatre.org)

footage accompanied by a live orchestra and choir courtesy of the RPO. Kodak Center, 200 West Ridge Rd. (454-2100 or rpo.org)

Imagine RIT

This annual creativity and innovation festival is a campus-wide event that is free for anyone and everyone, featuring live music, interactive presentations, and handson demonstrations that will educate and delight attendees of all ages. RIT Henrietta Campus 1 Lomb Memorial Dr. (4752411 or rit.edu/imagine)

Miscast

In this cabaret-style show, members of the Rochester Gay Men’s Chorus perform songs by musical characters for which they would never be cast. Through Apr 26. Blackfrairs Theatre, 795 East Main St. (423-0650 or thergmc.org)

Mayday! Underground Crafts & Arts Show

The 11th annual Mayday Spring Market is Rochester’s biggest indie craft show. Attendance is free, and the first 50 shoppers in line will receive a free swag bag. Village Gate Atrium, Second Floor, 274 Goodman St. N . (maydaycraft.com)

Finger Lakes Extravaganza

Enjoy a full four-course meal of local food and wine followed by live music and dancing at this year’s benefit for Heritage Christian Services. Strathallan City View Ballroom 550 East Ave. (hertitagechristianservices. org/event)

APR 27

Making Cheese Class at Jones Farm

Genesee Country Village and Museum is offering this exclusive look into 19th-century dairy work and cheese making. Enjoy the fruits of your labor as you prepare a hearty lunch and get to take home the cheese you make. Genesee Country Village and Museum, 1410 Flint Hill Rd. (538-6822 or gcv.com)

APR 25 Symphony for Our World

One hundred and thirty years of National Geographic history have led to this exclusive and breathtaking pairing of nature and music. This unique experience features five acts of curated

APR 30

One Take Film Festival

Join the Little Theatre in this four-day celebration of non-fiction filmmaking. Be challenged and inspired by this year’s best local and national documentaries as you enjoy Rochester’s legendary indie theatre.

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Explore | Entrepreneur

conservatory. He likens it to the Lamberton Conservatory in Highland Park. “That was part of what inspired me,” he says. “Going there in the middle of December when there was snow on the ground and just feeling soothed.” The Rayners envision a community fueled by a barter economy of knowledge, skills, 20

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

and resources. “So, we have the tourist element to this project,” he says, referring to the greenhouse, Airbnb, and lake to attract people.“If they come here and stay for some time—maybe they build a tiny house and live here; maybe they can use some of our resources to help build their own—so it’s like a business-sharing model. Or, maybe they

just used a workshop or maybe they needed to use our truck or some storage. So it’s like sharing business know-how.” Aside from the construction skills involved in building tiny homes, the Rayners have a wealth of experience and resources to offer. While Harvey’s background leans toward software design, graphic art, building websites, and

app development, Lauren is particularly passionate about permaculture, which she describes as “a philosophy of studying how nature works and mimicking it the best that you possibly can. The healthiest ecosystem is a forest,” she explains. “A mature forest. And in a forest, it’s very complex. There are a lot of systems functioning within that system and they’re all playing off of each other, helping each other, feeding each other, and eating each other. The more complex you can make your system, the better.” To simulate this environment for her own garden, she puts mulch over the soil to mimic the layer of leaves on a forest floor. “That does several things: it feeds the microorganisms in the ground, it keeps the moisture in, and it stops the weeds growing.” As a result, Lauren usually doesn’t have to water the garden and never has to do any weeding. Using this method, she regularly grows tomatoes, peppers, cauliflower, broccoli, eggplant, beans, and potatoes. She also makes microbial tea and biochar for fertilizer. “These skills,” she says, “living off the land, living self-sustainably—I really think people want to learn them, and there’s a demand for workshops like this.” Twenty minutes from Waterport, the village of Medina offers a promising model. “A lot of young people are moving back there now,” Lauren says.“It went from being a ghost town—literally nothing, the shops were all empty—to the buildings on Main Street being totally full. There are always cars and people. They’ve got a bread shop, a meatery, a coffee shop …” “a chocolatier,” pipes Harvey, “English pub, opera house.” Their list goes on. And although they aren’t holding their breath for such a dramatic transformation in Waterport, Harvey sees it as part of a greater trend. “I’ve seen videos on YouTube of people … one guy in particular from some big tech firm decided he would move back to his hometown and buy up half of Hyde Street.” That’s not as possible to do in a city, and giving back to small communities can make a huge difference on the people there. “And if we’re part of a trend, then maybe other people are looking at this place the same way, seeing potential in it, and we just don’t know them yet.” The Rayners hope that’s the case. “You don’t want to think you’re going to have to do it all yourself. You just play your part, you know? Make your contribution.” “We need more of you,” Lauren says Harvey laughs. “No, no—that would be a [bleeping] disaster.” John Ernst is a Rochester native and (585)’s editor-at-large. See more of his work at johnmwrites.com.

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HOME

Feeling disorganized? We’ve got tips for that! Plus visit a carriage house anyone would envy even without the view of Keuka Lake and learn all about how to decorate an apartment (or other small space)—it’s all about scale and multipurpose furniture. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

FROM HILLSIDE TO CARRIAGE HOUSE DREAM GARAGE HAS A HIP LIVING SPACE, TOO

One couple who bought a house on Keuka Lake wanted to update it to match their lifestyle. The stunning home, built in 2006 by Cutri Construction, with main-level cathedral spaces, porthole windows, and columned stone entryway, underwent a major renovation. A redesign to its floor plan, interior renovations, and exterior improvements were completed in 2015. Busy with interior updates such as lightening the color scheme to match the light-and-airy feel of a waterside home— which included painting exposed wood timbers white, lightening hardwood floors and painting walls in light neutrals—every room in the home was redesigned to make family and guests feel right at home. That meant all bedrooms and baths were redesigned with guests in mind and the kitchen in particular was modernized with custom cabinetry that included upper and under cabinet lighting. A bonus area above the garage was converted into a bedroom. The massive floor-to-ceiling living room fireplace was rebuilt. An exterior that was already spectacular 24

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

needed a few updates to its grounds. A custom front door and matching portico arch were installed. Installation of maintenance-free PVC on floors and railings of porches and a gazebo made structures water- and weather-resistant. For a true lakeside look, beadboard was installed on the ceiling of the gazebo to enhance its summery feel. Once the renovation of the house was finished (Cutri Construction completed that, too), a wooded hillside across from

the house became a subject of discussion by the homeowners. What’s built into the hillside today is a carriage house designed for entertaining and to house a five-car exotic super car collection. After mapping out the scope of the project in detail—to build a singular carriage house with spectacular views of the lake—Cutri Construction removed trees and excavated the hillside. Massive retaining walls and terraces were

Photos this page by Don Cochran; opposite page by Ashley Karschner

by Donna De Palma

Photos by ?

585mag.com | March/April 2020

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Photo by Ashley Karschner

585mag.com | March/April 2020

constructed to avert erosion due to the dramatic pitch of the hill. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We had to excavate and engineer structural foundations extensively. Special considerations were made with sitework to prevent the building from collapse. Engineering calculations specified approximately 11-foot-

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

wide footers along with a specific rebar schedule to hold up against the gravitational force of the steep slope (rebar is a reinforcing bar put into concrete to make it stronger),â&#x20AC;? says Frank Page, owner of Cutri Construction, who admits that the project posed unique challenges.

The nearly 10-foot retaining wall foundation and ledge behind the carriage house are poured concrete with fieldstone facing. Wide concrete and stone stairs lead to an auxiliary entrance to the carriage house, a rounded, wooden side door with portico arch overhead. The exterior design of the carraige

Photo by Don Cochran

house is centered around a five-panel bifolding door system. An integrated shade-and-screen system door unit on one wall of the living room opens to an upstairs balcony to take advantage of indoor/outdoor lakeside living. The homeowner chose this type of integrating system because it controls the view and sunlight while providing privacy without visible screens or drapes. An insect screen and a blind are within the operating system that’s part of the door. A hidden fabric panel and screen extend the entire length of the wall’s opening to provide shade or filtered ventilation when needed. Guests can enjoy the look of the outdoors without the inconvenience of insects or the annoyance of extremes of light. In the upstairs living room, a vaulted ceiling finished with shiplap and reclaimed hickory beams and hickory hardwoods, give the space a rustic quality that’s matched by a custom-made sliding barn door leading to a large, upstairs bath. The luxury bath features porcelain tile floor, custom wood vanity, semirecessed, farm-style sink, and upscale fixtures. Shower walls and floor are made of honed upstate New York slate with an accent wall in both the shower and on a vanity wall made of clefted quartz. A tiled, floor-to-ceiling fireplace with a reclaimed hickory beam mantel serves as the main focal point in the room. In a corner of the open concept living room, a custom mahogany bar with integrated mirror shelving, a copper sink, and slate countertop makes for elegant refreshments at the bar. When it’s time for business, another corner of the room features a workstation with wood desk and file cabinet. Climb a gently sloping driveway— finished with light-colored concrete pavers—to the drive-in level of the carriage house. A climate-controlled fivebay garage that has one double garage door and three single doors has all the conveniences. What a great place to store an Audi R8 or any of the other exotic cars in this homeowner’s collection. Neutral-toned commercial plank tile flooring, crown molding, custom wall cabinets, solid hickory countertop, a black soapstone sink with 32-inch utility faucet plus metallic tile backsplash and overhead lights make this the perfect wash and work area for cars. The homeowner’s framed sports jersey collection brings a touch of color and fun to this exotic super car collector’s work and storage space. What a unique layout and design for a carriage house by the water that’s every car collector’s dream. Donna De Palma is a freelance writer based in Rochester. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

TA K E YO U R A PA R TM E N T FROM

D E S I G N

ZERO TO 60 T I P S

F R O M

T H E

P R O S

by Donna De Palma

We went to the experts to ask how they take a drab apartment from dull to divine—a place anyone would look forward to coming home to at the end of the day. If you find yourself a first-time apartment dweller or simply downsizing from your family home, here’s a fast guide to creating a space that’s truly a reflection of you. Unless you’re lucky enough to have lived like Jackie Onassis in a luxury flat the size of a house in the heart of London or like Jessica Biel and Justin Timberlake, who live in a 5,375-square-foot Tribeca penthouse, space is often a consideration when living in an apartment. Though luxury apartments are available in Rochester with lots of square footage and rent to match, many apartment dwellers get by on less than 1,000 square feet. When furnishing your apartment, select furniture that fits your space. Brad Sullivan, an interior designer at Stickley, 30

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Audi & Co., suggests choosing a sofa and occasional chairs with clean lines that can be adapted to any design scheme. “Don’t buy anything you can’t change. Most importantly, live with what you love. Have a connection with what you’re buying or repurposing in your apartment,” says Sullivan. Think smaller. According to the designers we spoke to, furniture is trending smaller, including occasional chairs, small drink tables replacing end tables, and, yes, even sofas are coming down in size. To save on space, look for dualpurpose furniture. “If you own a table with leaves that seats six to eight, store the leaves until you’re ready to entertain. Use the extra chairs at a desk or as part of a seating arrangement in your bedroom,” says Sullivan. Eliminate clutter. Find creative ways to store things you don’t use. Sullivan suggests storage in a platform bed or

within decorative baskets or containers to get clutter completely out of sight. Stephanie Durham, a senior interior Ddesigner at Ethan Allen, agrees. She likes to start any design project by clearing clutter. What’s underneath can be the beginnings of a fabulous room. High on the list for designers who want to create a room with personality is lighting. Many apartments have existing overhead lighting. Soften light and add points of interest for a more dramatic or nuanced space. Floor lamps, table lamps, task lighting, even bouncing light off walls can change the ambiance of a room. Our experts agree: keep window treatments to a minimum. A curtain panel with a Roman shade underneath is the most any of our designers suggests. “Anything that blocks natural light, unless privacy is an issue, is best avoided,” says Kelly Cardinal, lead in-home designer at West Elm.

Photos by Michael Hanlon at DL Home & Garden’s new City Living Essentials, located at 306 Central Ave.

Accessorize with color. Color is a simple way to transform a space. Color can make a room look bigger or smaller. Put your signature on a room with color. Neutrals are everywhere this season. Though color is a little harder to find in showrooms and stores right now, search sample books or go custom to add splashes of color and prints with an area rug, pillows, artwork, or window treatments. Get expert advice if you’re color-challenged or new at the game. Durham suggests when selecting artwork to consider the dimensions of your room, your taste, and budget. Choice of artwork is very personal. The work has to speak to you. Frequent outdoor art shows and gallery exhibits. Befriend artists whose work you like. Ask them to be in touch when they create new works in order to select artwork tailored to your taste and style. If your ceilings are high, select vertical artwork to draw attention down to where your furnishings are. You can go big with art if you have a large room. A smaller room requires small, intimate pieces and smaller groupings. Use everyday items as decorative elements. Books arranged artistically on

shelves; a tray, vase, or glassware filled with natural, found items or a few unique vintage finds goes a long way in personalizing your space. Plants or branches from the outdoors draw the eye to corners of the room that would otherwise go unnoticed. Cardinal suggests emphasizing the features you love in a room, whether it’s the windows, the room’s layout or something as simple as the height of the ceilings. “Ask yourself what you want your space to feel like. Do you prefer color or tone-on-tone?” says Cardinal. She likes to focus on throws, pillows, area rugs, and artwork in an apartment to give a room that personal touch. All of our designers suggest clean lines and neutral colors for furniture. Introduce change by rotating artwork, using slipcovers to transform the look of an existing sofa or chairs, and swapping pillows and accessories either seasonally or simply when you feel it’s time for a change. “If you find the need to replace your sofa but like its shape, try a slipcover first. Custom-ordered slipcovers from velvets to heavier materials start at $900, less expensive than replacing a quality sofa and what you’ll have is a brand-new look,” says Sullivan.

Follow trends sparingly. Add a few trendy design elements in your room to keep things current but don’t go overboard with “color of the year” accessories or the latest distressed area rug because a trend that’s no longer trending is just an out-ofdate fashion.Trends like blue or minimalist, industrial prints may be in this year, but just wait until next year. Our designers say: “If you don’t love it, don’t buy it just because it’s a trend.” Introduce something unexpected, say our experts. “Whether it’s a mix of materials like metal and glass, a pattern or print, or a curated piece, express your personality in a way that makes you feel at home,” Sullivan says. Layering a room with details like color, pattern, and texture gives a finished look to any interior. “People are nervous about curating within the modern aesthetic. Go ahead and introduce an antique into a room that’s mostly mid-century modern,” says Cardinal. “Something unexpected can be just the ticket to a sensational room.” Donna De Palma is a freelance writer based in Rochester. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

WANT A DREAM HOME?

If cleanliness is next to godliness, then surely being organized should garner angelic status. But let’s be honest—most people, when faced with the task of organization, have no celestial aspirations. Most have one overriding reaction…run! An eye for detail Enter Tamara Turcott, your seraph of systematic organization. A local Gold Circle member of the National Association o f P ro d u c t iv i t y a n d O r g a n i z i n g Professionals, Turcott stands ready “to assist you or take on the task for you,” whether you are moving, downsizing, or hankering for a more ordered home or business. Her company, An Eye for Detail Professional Organization, offers a number of essential services. 32

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Company background Turcott’s company, started in 2013, is a natural outgrowth of her childhood passion for organizing and rearranging. “I should have known then this is what I wanted to do,” she says. “For instance, while my friend’s parents were away, I said to her, ‘let’s redo the kitchen! Let’s take everything out, clean things up, and put everything back in a nice neat way.’” Apparently, her enthusiasm for this “fun” activity was contagious, as her friend readily joined her in completing the task. But hers was not a direct route to entrepreneurship. Tragedy sent her life into a tailspin. In 2011, her husband, Bill, died of cancer. She was devastated. At the time, she was vaguely aware of professional organizing but chose to remain at her corporate job, which she lost seven months later. Though

she found another one, it seemed that “everything about it was wrong.” The stress she was experiencing as a consequence of her husband’s death, coupled with the anxiety due to her job, became overwhelming. It was time for a sabbatical. She used the time to take stock and consider her next move. Thinking back to when she was still in the corporate world, she recalls that at times of frustration she would tell herself, “all I really want to do is clean people’s houses.” “What was I thinking?” she says. “I don’t even like to vacuum!” She realized that more than cleaning houses she wanted to bring order to residential and business settings as a professional organizer. Knowing little about the profession, she learned the basics from Google, named her

DECLUTTER!

Photos by Michael Hanlon

business, and began to put the word out. Not wanting to cut off her revenue stream entirely, Turcott returned to her corporate job after her sabbatical and began her professional organizing career part time, initially relying on friends and family as pro bono clients. She secured her first paying clients thanks to a professional organizer website.Within two months, she decided it was time to vote for her future. She quit her job. “I couldn’t be happier,” she says, “every day I feel so blessed to get to do what I love.” Mission Despite her natural gift and affinity for organizing, Turcott’s careful to not get swept up in a vision of her own creation. Her goal is to have a content client, who has the final say. Turcott has structured her business as an allencompassing service. She works with clients

According to Tamara Turcott, the key is not postponing decisions By Arlene Hisiger

diagnosed with ADHD as well those who suffer from severe and chronic disorganization. Her projects range from organizing a junk drawer to organizing and rearranging an entire house.“I have yet to find reason to turn anyone down,” she says. One of the more delightful outcomes of her business is what Turcott refers to as “building relationships.” Quite a few of her clients have become personal friends. One even invited her to her daughter’s wedding! It is also deeply gratifying for her to learn she has positively impacted clients’ mental health by bringing order to their lives. Aneyefordetailorganizing.com Arlene Hisiger is a local freelance writer who loves chocolate, world music, and free form dance.

TURCOTT TAKEAWAYS: There are no organizing rules—find a system that works for you. “I don’t care if you keep your clothes in the kitchen, if that helps you get ready in the morning.” • Store like items together. • Keep most-used items within arm’s reach and less-used items further away • Take care of one-minute tasks (such as sorting mail) immediately, to keep things from piling up. • Place storage in clear see-through plastic bins. Square or rectangular ones take up less space. • Space cluttered? Chances are you have too much stuff. Time to donate. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

LOVE IT? OR LIST IT? LIVE THE HGTV EFFECT! Staging • Rightsizing Design Assessment

DANIELA “DANI” POLIDOR

Licensed Real Estate Salesperson, SRES 585-474-5677 cell danipolidor@gmail.com

Office: 585-347-4900 • Fax: 347-4165 3300 Monroe Ave., Suite 315, Rochester, NY

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Spruce Up Your Home Photo courtesy of New Energy Works, ©Scott Hemenway

FOR SPRING

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HOME TIPS

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Adam is in charge of this and I’m placing the InDesign doc on this page like we do for the Shop sections. Celebrate Spring with a distinct and friendly entry to your home. Remove winter debris, bring in soft touches like cheerful blooms and warm lighting; update, re-finish, or add a fresh coat of paint to your door to create an attractive and welcoming façade for family, friends, and visitors.

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Repotted plants and new accessories are a great refresh for spring . Our Ethnicraft serving trays also double as wall décor. Get creative by layering three in various sizes and patterns

AXOM Home 36

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

You don’t have to spend a fortune to spruce up your home for spring. Sometimes it’s as easy as rearranging the furniture! The simplest of accessories can also make a difference. Add a splash of color with new pillows on the sofa or new floral artwork on the wall. A vintage vinyl floor cloth by Spicher & Co. makes a great addition to your home. It’s both functional and trendy!

Diane Prince

CRAFT BEVERAGES

BEER, WINE, CIDER, SPIRITS … WHATEVER YOU’RE INTO, WE’VE GOT IT IN THE (585). MEET A FARMER WHO GROWS HOPS FOR LOCAL BEER PRODUCTION, CHECK OUT A CIDERY THAT’S TRULY A FAMILY AFFAIR, LEARN HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN GRENADINE, AND MORE. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

HOME BAR HOOCH FANCY THATâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;MIXERS YOU CAN MAKE AT HOME By Pete Wayner

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Photos by Michael Hanlon

In the 1920s, Prohibition made it illegal to sell or consume recreational alcohol. But sacramental, aka altar, wine earned an exception. Thank the Lord, literally. Being the industrious stewards of good drinks they are, the Fee Brothers promoted their altar wine and saw an 800 percent jump in sales. So, either Rochester’s parishioners became far more pious during this dry season, or a lot of wine was falling off trucks en route to church. And, of course, the entire line of Fee Brothers Bitters owes its existence to that terrible homemade concoction, bathtub gin. As we celebrate Prohibition’s centennial by raising a glass to our more sober forebears, let us give thanks that we no longer have to risk life and liver to enjoy a carefully crafted cocktail in the comfort of our homes. That said, there remains a place for ambitious home barkeeps to elevate their recipes beyond what can be purchased at a liquor store. As we’ve said before in this magazine, a cocktail must contain three things: A spirit, a sweetener, and a modifier. First of all, yes, you can make your own gin, sort of, with kits, and who knows—you may be the next Sipsmith. But chances are, in terms of taste, you’re better off just buying a bottle. Sweeteners and modifiers are where you can really shine as a creator. Syrups, garnishes, and liqueurs are all absolutely doable at home with a few easily procured ingredients. And the payoff is huge compared to the amount of effort— if you’ve never told a guest, “Yes, this is my pineapple syrup. I make it here at home,” well, let’s just say your bougiest dreams are about to come true. Donny Clutterbuck, bartender and caretaker at Cure, suggests syrups as a great place for home bar enthusiasts to try their hand at creating craft modifiers. “Fresh lemon and lime juice change drastically after twenty-four hours,” he says, but when combined with sugar and made into flavored cocktail syrups, they stabilize and keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to a month. “Lemon and lime syrups are staples of this bar,” he says while manning the bar at Cure. These syrups can be used in any sour. Think daiquiris, margaritas, and of course the whiskey sour. Typically, a simple syrup is a 1:1 ratio of water to sugar. Some recipes call for gently heating the syrup to encourage the dissolution of the sugar grains, though this isn’t strictly necessary and has been accused in other recipes of changing the character of the final product. In the case of lemon and lime syrups, says Clutterbuck, there are three keys. First, use equal parts fruit juice and sugar—no added water is necessary. Second, don’t heat the syrup, as it will affect the flavor of the citrus juice. Third, avoid measuring ingredients by volume. “Different grains of sugar have

different volumes,” says Clutterbuck. “Go by weight.” Time to break out that kitchen scale. There are other syrups you can make as well. For sweeter drinks, a rich simple syrup can be called for, which is a 2:1 ratio of sugar to water. Honey syrup, the defining ingredient in a delightful gin cocktail called the Bee’s Knees, is 1:1 honey to water. Another simple take is subbing out white sugar with demerara sugar, which undergoes less boiling in its production, leaving more crystals as well as notes of butterscotch, vanilla, and molasses. In Dale Degroff ’s excellent cocktail book The Essential Cocktail, he recommends a demerara simple syrup paired with cocktails containing intense fruit flavors like pineapple and mango as well as strong rum drinks (don’t use it with vodka or gin because the loud spice notes in the syrup will crush the tender botanicals in the spirit). If you really want to turn heads at your home bar, there is one more syrup you should whip up. In fact, Clutterbuck says it would be the one he recommends you take on: grenadine. His recipe combines 1:1 POM Wonderful pomeg ranate juice and water. In The 12 Bottle Bar, David Solomonson and Lesley Jacobs Solomonson also call for orange flower water and rose water (Fee Brothers sells the former and the latter is available at many grocery stores). These recipes will clobber the supermarket drench sold between margarita mix and premade four-dollar simple syrup. While grenadine can be successful in a number of drinks, try it first in a variation of the Clover Club cocktail.This light pink classic with a healthy head of foam, all but forgotten from the days before Prohibition, was the signature drink of the men’s club bearing its name. Picture titans of industry, smoking cigars in the oak-paneled rooms of the Bellevue-Stratford Hotel in Philadelphia, rose-colored foam brimming over martini glasses. Traditionally, the Clover Club was made with raspberry syrup. But unlike the aforementioned lemon and lime syrups, there isn’t an easy way to juice a raspberry. Besides, both the 1966 Old Mr. Boston De Luxe Official Bartender’s Guide and The Diners’ Club Drink Book from 1961 recommend using grenadine anyway. If it was good enough for my Grandma Lorraine’s bridge club, it’s good enough for me. In addition to syrups, recipes abound for other homemade modifiers. Liqueurs like limoncello are simple enough—The 12 Bottle Bar recipe calls for the zest of eight organic lemons combined with a bottle of 100-proof vodka, sealed in a jar and shaken daily until the zest drains of color. Strain the mixture through cheesecloth, add a cup or so of simple syrup and let it rest out

of direct sunlight for four days. It will keep for up to a month in the fridge. If garnishes are more what you’re looking for, brandied cherries are even easier. Place a pot on low heat with a cup of sugar and a cup of water. Mix in small amounts of spices like cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom and heat on low until the sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, add a quart of sweet pitted cherries, and let the mixture cool before putting it in the fridge for a couple days before using. They’ll last a month and work great for Manhattans, old fashioneds, or, hell, ice cream sundaes. No matter what ends up in your glass, it just seems to taste better when you make it yourself. Unless we’re talking about hooch, in which case it will taste much worse. But a nice craft syrup, a liqueur or garnish you whipped up on your own is a special accomplishment for any home bar enthusiast. Like the syrup itself, the rewards are simple, but sweet. Pete Wayner is a food- and beverage-centric content creator based in Rochester.

The Clover Club Cocktail Juice from 1/2 lemon 1/2 oz. homemade grenadine 1 egg white 1 1/2 oz. dry gin • Combine all ingredients in a shaker without ice and shake for about a minute. This is called a dry shake and helps whip the egg white into a beautiful foam while incorporating all ingredients together. • Fill the shaker 2/3 of the way with ice and shake until the exterior frosts over. • Double strain (Hawthorne strainer over the shaker, fine mesh strainer over the glass) into a cocktail glass. Homemade Grenadine • Combine 1 cup of water with 1 cup of POM Wonderful pomegranate juice in a small saucepan. Heat on low and stir to combine. Let the mixture cool, add a few drops of orange flower water and food grade rose water, stir to combine. This will keep, covered and refrigerated, for at least a month. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

HOW DO YOU LIKE THEM APPLES? STAR CIDER IS A FINGER LAKES FAMILY AFFAIR By Nancy E. McCarthy

When Adam and Cortni Stahl of Geneva were dating, Cortni was introduced to the Stahl familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fall tradition of picking and pressing apples to make hard cider. The couple, who married in 2016, started making cider together as a basement hobby over a decade ago. Cortniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biology degree, scientific approach, and professional experience upped the game, leading to painstaking experimentation as they perfected different blends with consistent quality. When dabbling turned to passion, Cortni, Adam, and his brother Nate took the leap to start their own cider-making business. Star Cider, which began as a small commercial operation providing cider to local restaurants and bars, was launched in 2014.

Left to right: CFO Nate Stahl and owners Cortni and Adam Stahl

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Lake Drum Brewing and Kindred Fare in Geneva and Mullers Cider House in Rochester were among the first establishments to carry Star Cider.“We started with a cider blended with fresh ginger root,” says Cortni.“We love making ciders with different seasonal ingredients added in.” Hard cider, with a typical alcohol content from 5.5 to 8 percent, isn’t a new drink but in the craft beverage industry it is the newest kid on the block. And the “kid” is growing up fast. According to the New York State Liquor Authority, there were just twenty-two cideries licensed in 2012. At last count, there were seventy-two statewide. That number doesn’t even include the abundant wineries and breweries that also produce hard cider, an increasingly popular trend. Why? “New York’s craft cider industry is booming, largely due to Governor Cuomo’s deregulation of the craft beverage industry,” says Stefan Fleming, director of industry development at Empire State Development. The creation of the Farm Cider License in 2013 allowed smaller manufacturers (up to 150,000 gallons annually) to make cider, exclusively sourcing New York–grown apples. Not a problem: New York is a ripe region, the second-largest apple-growing state in the U.S. “The state’s rich heritage of growing the finest apple varieties and groundbreaking agricultural research at colleges like Cornell University, has generated one of the most robust hard cider markets in the entire country,” says Fleming. Back in the Finger Lakes, Star Cider was also growing. The Stahls downsized their personal living space to an Airstream trailer to finance the fledgling operation. Nate assumed the “chief financial officer” role. Their first commercial space was a leased garage in Clifton Springs. From there they rented barn space in Seneca Castle—where they source their apples at Seneca Orchards. The ultimate dream of opening their own tasting room and production facility came to fruition in May 2019. Star Cider’s East Lake Road cidery in Canandaigua occupies 4,000 square feet.About a third of the property is production space, leaving the rest for the tasting room and a seasonal outdoor patio. The unpretentious red building is timber frame construction made with reclaimed materials. The tasting room is constructed from salvaged barn wood and tin. Adam built the forty-foot bar—a poured concrete top and a base of apple crates. There is additional table seating and high tops scattered about. Building the cidery was a group effort, with friends and family pitching in along the way. “We wanted to create a space where people feel at home and can enjoy hanging out,” says Cortni. Megan and JW Wadsworth of Farmington do just that. “We visit the tasting room at least once a month,” says Megan. “We love the vibe and atmosphere.” Variety is the spice of life “Cortni and Adam Stahl of Star Cider have a passion not only for creating a great product but also for developing an amazing experience in their tasting room,” says Christen Smith, director of marketing and communications at Finger Lakes Visitors Connection. The cidery attracts locals, visitors, couples, friends, and families (children and dogs welcome). Nonalcoholic apple cider, mulled cider, and slushies, depending on the season, are a hit with the kids. In addition to

complimentary fresh popcorn and a community water bowl for the pups, a simple snack menu offers salty bread or pretzels with dipping sauces and mozzarella sticks. A menu expansion is in the works. Of course, the star appeal is the cider. Core blends are Five Point (featuring five apple varieties), Apple Crisp (made from sweet dessert apples), and Frisky Whisky (using wild apples aged in whisky barrels). Seasonal offerings include Forever Wild (April through September) and Appley Ever After (October through March) plus several rotating ciders such as the bright and bubbly Ginger cider that launched their wholesale business. Ginger cider is Megan’s favorite so far, while JW favors the refreshing, fruity flavors of La Vie En Rosé. Growlers and canned ciders are available for purchase to bring the tastes back home. A lot has transpired since Star Cider debuted in 2014. Cortni and Adam married in 2016, they bought a house in Gorham, welcomed son Ashton in 2018, and opened the tasting room. Cider production has grown from 9,000 gallons in 2018 to 14,000 in 2019. This cider thing is catching on! Since there’s a lot to celebrate, Star Cider will mark its one-year tasting room anniversary with an all-day party on May 30. Starting at noon, family, friends, and customers will enjoy live music, a special spring cider release, a new cocktail, and slushies. What better way for local cider lovers to raise a glass to New York’s newest signature drink? Star Cider is at 3365 East Lake Road in Canandaigua. Starcidery.com. Nancy E. McCarthy is a freelance writer in Canandaigua. Contact her at mccarthy360@frontiernet.net.

CIDER 101 “I believe cider to have the same breadth of style and expression as wine and beer,” says Karl duHoffmann, a founding board member of the New York Cider Association. “I have yet to fi a o e ho is t s p ise the elegance and food-friendliness of ciders, or by the variety of innovative expressions available.” The association was created in 2015 to foster community amongst and act as the collective voice and organizing body for apple growers and cider makers throughout the state. Hard cider is made much like wine, except it ferments the juice of apples instead of grapes. Star Cider uses a variety of apples picked and pressed at Seneca Orchards. Yeast is added, and after the juice ferments the cider is fi ishe e i fi te i a carbonating. Locally grown ingredients such as ginger root, hops, strawberries, a t si a o its i e e s “New York is an amazing applegrowing region and the perfect place to make cider,” says Cortni. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

THE

BREAKING POINT Bruce Murray’s Boundary Breaks makes Riesling its focus by Erin Scherer

One evening in 2003 on a business trip to Las Vegas, Bruce Murray and a colleague of his were looking for a place to dine out. They decided to take a look at the website Chowhound, as they always did, and discovered a Thai restaurant with unanimous raves. “My friend said, ‘Look, everybody raves about this place. This is where we have to go,” recalls Murray. “It had a big wine list, and almost every wine was a Riesling.” At random, he picked a wine from Germany’s Nahe Valley, and his life would never be the same. “I thought if everybody had the same experience that I had at that Thai Restaurant, they would fall in love with Riesling. It just has to happen.” Fast forward seventeed years later, and Murray owns Boundary Breaks, a winery located on the east side of Seneca Lake in Lodi. Currently, they offer six different variants on Riesling, including sparkling and ice wine offerings. Originally intended 44

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

to be Riesling only, they now grow and sell Gewürztraminer and Cabernet Franc; they also offer Dry Rosé and a red blend, Harmonic Red (a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon). Over the years, Boundary Breaks’ wines have been made by a who’s who of Finger Lakes wine: Fox Run Vineyards’ Peter Bell, Barry Family Cellars’ Ian Barry, Red Newt Cellars’ Kelby Russell, Sheldrake Point’s Dave Breeden, and Swedish Hill’s Derek Wilber. Breeden and Wilber are among the winemakers currently making wines for Boundary Breaks, as are Lakewood Vineyards’ Chris Stamp and his children, Ben and Abby. Bruce Murray grew up in Syracuse, and high school years coincided with the Vietnam War and Watergate, which gave way to the Pentagon Papers and Bernstein and Woodward, both of which inspired Murray’s first career, journalism. Enrolling at Yale, he studied under John Hersey,

Photos by Kate Melton

a Pulitzer Prize winner and pioneer of New Journalism most famous for writing Hiroshima, a book about the World War II bombing and its aftermath. He graduated with a degree in English literature (Yale did not offer a journalism program at that point) and subsequently interned at the Long Island newspaper Newsday before moving to San Francisco in 1979. In San Francisco Murray discovered the power of good food and wine.This was only a few years after the infamous Judgement of Paris favored California wines over their French counterparts, and it ran parallel to the nascency of Silicon Valley. Murray made many connections with people in the technology world, giving way to his second career. By this time, though, Murray realized he was an East Coast guy at heart. “After being out there long enough, I felt like the East Coast was where I fit in better,” he remembers, and in the mid 1980s he returned to New York City. A decade later, he found himself working for a recent Stanford PhD dropout named Elon Musk and his brother Kimbal at Zip2, a company that licensed City Guide software to newspapers and companies. “Elon was a big thinker, no limits,” Murray says of Musk. “If you want to do it, do it big. That’s how he approached things.” Murray had moved on from Zip2 by the time of his Las Vegas Riesling epiphany, and he was ready for another career change. “I knew there was one more career change left,” says Murray. This time, he had some stipulations. “It should be one that allowed me to A.) Own my own business, B.) Make a product I was proud of and C.) Make a product that I could sell around the world, which is not easy to do.” He also knew that he wanted to return to Upstate, and in 2007, he found a property near Lodi Point State Park. “There was nothing here. It was a farmer’s field in a really good spot.” He bought the property the following year, and six acres of Riesling vines were planted in 2009. He sought the help of established winery owners in the Finger Lakes, including Cameron Hosmer of the eponymous Hosmer Winery, cousins Mark and John Wagner of Lamoreaux Landing and Wagner Vineyards, as well as Hans Walter-Peterson of the Finger Lakes Grape Program. The first year of production was 2011. For the first several years as the vineyard was established, Murray continued to work his other job and commuted from New York City on the weekends. On Saturdays, he made sure to meet and touch base with his first employee, vineyard manager Kees Stapel. Boundary Breaks was Stapel’s first vineyard management position. He was 25 years old. Prior to this, he worked for eight years at Sheldrake Point under the tutelage of vineyard manager Dave Wiemann. Due to the miniscule size of the vineyard, Stapel split his time between both vineyards for a few years. Because he was new to Vineyard Management, Stapel was still inexperienced with Pesticide Management, but got certified quickly; Stapel recalls having to adjust to a leadership role. “I had been accustomed to being assigned a task and doing it. As the manager, I’m the one who needs to constantly think about what everyone’s priorities are.” Today, Stapel supervises full-time vineyard workers plus a twelve-man, temporary 585mag.com | March/April 2020

crew they share with three other vineyards. In 2015, Murray settled in the Finger Lakes full time, and in 2017, his high school sweetheart Diana Lyttle joined him. They married the same year. The original vision for Boundary Breaks was Riesling only. “The plan was that we would make Riesling. People would taste it and immediately fall in love with it, and want to keep buying it without any problem—and in great quantities.” However, the realities of the marketplace intruded, and in 2013, Murray planted Gewürztraminer and subsequently Cabernet Franc. “Once we saw how well our Riesling and Gewürztraminer did, we said, ‘We think red grapes will grow well on this site.’ We started planting a few red varieties and have concluded, like many others, that Cabernet Franc is the red varietal that makes the most sense for this region.” Riesling remains the locus of Boundary Breaks’ operation, however, and their Rieslings branded by clone, with offerings of clones 90, 198, and 239; there is also a wine that is a blend of the clones, Ovid Line North, named for the original vineyard’s location, which is north of Ovid’s town line. At the moment, Murray is experimenting with a new varietal, Gamay Noir, scarcely planted in the Finger Lakes but becoming increasingly popular, thanks to successful and acclaimed offerings by Sheldrake Point, Bet The Farm, and Thomas Pastuszak’s Terrassen label. Murray describes Gamay as “the new, new thing,” but due to the scarcity, Murray is currently purchasing grapes from the Ontario province in Canada. If a Gamay offering proves successful, Murray 46

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will plant Gamay in his own vineyard in the future. He also foresees the hiring of a full-time Winemaker as inevitable. “We’re getting to a point now where we need to build our own production facility and make our wines there, because we’re getting to a point where it makes more sense to do it for ourselves.” They’ve taken the first steps toward autonomy with the planned construction of a wine production facility. In December, Boundary Breaks was awarded $100,000 from New York State’s Regional Economic Development Council to assist with construction of the wastewater management practices for the facility and facilities to manage stor mwater and erosion and prevent precipitationrelated damage. “To ensure none of the byproducts of wine production reach any portion of the watershed, including Seneca Lake, I want to design and c o n s t r u c t e f f e c t ive wa s t ewa t e r t re a t m e n t facilities,” he states. He believes that when all is said and done, the cost of the construction of the facility will exceed $2 million. In the meantime, Murray reflects on his journey with gratitude: “We’ve gotten really, really great winemakers to make our wines for us. We’ve focused on the vineyard, and we’ve had the good fortune to work with the best winemakers around here.” Erin Scherer wrote about the Lake Tunnel Solar Village in the May/June 2019 issue. She lives in Geneva and is currently working on a book about the Finger Lakes Wine Industry.

HYPERLOCAL HOPS

CHERYL WYGAL DOESN’T SELL BEER, BUT YOU’VE PROBABLY TASTED HER HOPS By Tina Etshman

Driving down a lane near her Ontario farm, Cheryl Wygal noticed how many cobblestone houses were in the area (her father’s home, which was before that her grandfather’s, is also a cobblestone). It was then she decided on a name for her Ontario County business—Cobblestone Hops. In 2014, Wygal decided to try growing hops on the seven-acre farm she bought from her father. Most of her five children were grown, and she still wanted to start a career. She originally thought about growing grapes but decided on hops after craft breweries began springing up around the area, as they are all over the northeast. Growing hops begins with clearing and burning any plant debris in the fields in the spring (April or May), she explains. Next, twenty-foot hop poles are vertically put into the ground and sunk below the frost line. Cables are run across the tops of the poles to create a support structure for the plants. Wygal hangs a twine cord from the top of the trellis and stakes it into the ground. The hop vines grow up the hanging cords. Hops are a perennial and are dioecious, meaning there are both male and female individual plants, she explains. Only female plants produce hop cones. Wygal grows fourteen varieties of hops and her goal every year is to have each hop variety trained by the last day of May. Training involves choosing two or three healthy plants and manually encouraging them onto the trellis.

Once the hops are trained, they start growing upward; during the upward growth season hops can grow up to a foot per day. Somewhere around the first day of summer the hops will begin to branch out and become fuller, she explains. “After they grow fuller, you can barely see through the hop yard, she says. “Hop flowers look like little prickly pom-poms.” Six to eight weeks after flower ing (depending on the variety) the hops are

ready to be harvested. The pale-green hops cones are moved to dryer beds in the barn where air is blown through them. Wygal bales them up and takes them to nearby Manchester to be pelletized. In that form, it’s easier for brewers to work with the material and more of the oils and acids in the hops are preserved. Hops add bitterness and aroma to beer—they give IPAs their “hoppy smell,” she explains. Wygal goes out on delivery trips once the hops are processed. She also invites groups—including garden clubs—to tour her farm. She’s hosted growers from Brazil and Canada. Wygal plants around 16,000 plants on her farm. Future plans include using her last two acres of land to plant new varieties of hops. The last Saturday in July, Cobblestone Hops hosts “Hop Fest,” with live music and tours. Some of the breweries that use Cobblestone hops are even on hand with their beer, so visitors can “meet the people who make 100 percent local beer a reality.” This year it will be on July 25—check online for future details. Cobblestone Hops is at 5736 Wa l wo r t h R o a d i n O n t a r i o. Cobblestonehopyard.com Tina Etshman is a freelance writer living in Rochester.

585mag.com | March/April 2020

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Academy offers weekly programs and camps for all ages in academics, art, music, dance, language, robotics, sports, STEM, and driver’s ed. Classes include glass flame beadwork, fencing, Lego Mindstorms, moviemaking, entrepreneurship, 3D printing, creative writing, and cooking. And, new this year, the Harley Eco Camp is an environmentallyfocused day camp that incorporates art, science, nature, organic gardening, vegetarian cooking, drama, storytelling, music and movement. Campers will take advantage of Harley’s nature center, natural playground and outdoor classrooms, Micro-farm, Allens Creek, greenhouse, and teaching kitchen. harleyschool.org/about/summerprograms

Budding musicians practice at Kanack School of Music

SUMMER CAMPS Keep kids moving with a variety of day camps BY MICHELLE SHIPPERS

While your kids are most likely looking forward to summer vacation, you are probably stressing about how to keep them occupied during those lazy, hazy days. How about summer camp? While there are plenty of overnight camping experiences available, you might not be aware of the many day camp opportunities. With full and half-day programs to choose from, they are a great option for working parents. Here’s an in-depth look at a few more camps to consider, suggested by local parents and organized by subject. And, they are a g reat way to keep young brains active and help them avoid a summer slump. 48

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

ACADEMICS Our Lady of Mercy School for Young Women offers day camp experiences for all girls from grades three to twelve. Full-day camps include activities such as art, cooking, STEM, outdoor exploration, sports, musical theater, photography, and more. mercyhs.com/camps The Harley Day Camp located at the Harley School in Brighton offers three types of camp experiences that are open to the community. Daily activities at the Summer Day Camp (ages 4-12) include progressive swim lessons, outdoor lear ning, sports and arts activities. Open to all ages, the Summer

THE ARTS Fuel their creative side with a camp that celebrates all things artistic, like the Memorial Art Gallery’s Creative Workshop camp. Geared toward kids ages six to twelve, campers who attend the full-day weeklong camp have the opportunity to study drawing, painting, and sculpture under the instruction of teaching artists whose ranks include local art educators, art histor ians, and working artists. Each week carries a theme, like animals, puppets and characters, or history and science. “We teach art for expression and communication,” says Rachael Baldanza, curriculum director. While the specific requirements for any given art camp may vary, the Creative Workshop camps welcome children of all artistic skill levels. “As a parent considering an art camp, I would look for things they wouldn’t get in school,” says Baldanza. “Art isn’t the central focus in schools today, and there are families who use our programs as a booster for creative education.” Summer 2020 camps will run weekly from June 29 to August 21. Registration begins this spring and spots fill up quickly. Visit mag.rochester.edu/ creativeworkshop for more information. OFC Creations recently announced the 2020 line up for ROC Summer Theatre Experience, the largest theater summer camp program in upstate New York.

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From July 6 through August 22, 2020, campers ages 4 to 18 will participate in seventeen musical theater productions across three venues with twenty-five directors. Each camp concludes with performances open to family, friends, and the public. Summer 2020 camps include productions at the Lyric Theater Campus, the Kodak Center Campus, and Seton Catholic School Pint Sized Campus. OFC Creations executive director, Er ic Vaughn Johnson, is no stranger to summer camp prog ramming. From 2013 to 2018, Johnson designed and spearheaded the Summer Stock prog ram at Rochester Association of Performing Arts, leading upwards of 400 campers throughout the summ e r. r o c s u m m e r t h e a t r e . c o m

connections to the past and the present. The Seward House in Auburn offers unique weeklong day camp experiences in collaboration with area histor ical and cultural sites. Each day, the small cohort of campers ages 8 to 10 visits a different location to participate in activities like an archaeological dig at the Harriet Tubman National Historical Park, afternoon tea at the Seward House, and producing their own movies at the Cayuga Museum. The Seward House will offer two weeks of camp this summer, July 20–24 and August 17–21. Registration opens in March. To register, email outreach@sewardhouse. org or call (315) 252-1283. For more information on the Seward House, visit sewardhouse.org.

Other arts camps to consider Kanak School of Music Choose from Suzuki, chanber, musical theater, orchestra, fiddle, and other camps. 2077 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester; kanak.org Summer at Hochstein Offering a variety of musical camps at the Hochstein School for kids ages 4–18, including Arts in Action, Comics and Music, Composer’s Club, Rock Camp, and more. 50 N Plymouth Ave., Rochester; hochstein.org/summer Draper School of Dance Draper Center offers all levels of study and intensity in its well-respected and nationally known Summer Program. 1326 University Ave., Rochester; drapercenter.org

Michelle Shippers is a Rochesterarea freelance writer and mom to an adorable three-year-old boy.

HISTORY A history-focused camp is a great opportunity for young people to learn about local heritage and make

ARCADE & ATTICA RAILROAD

Easter Bunny Express • Easter Egg Hunt • Meet the Easter Bunny • Jelly Bean Contest • Each child receives a goodie bag from the Easter Bunny

Tickets: $22 Adults, $20 Seniors/Children/Veterans 585mag.com | March/April 2020

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March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Improving senior health with a sense of community JINELLE VAIANA

ne in three older adults outside of nursing homes lives alone, according to the Institute on Aging, and living alone can lead to social isolation. It may not be surprising that loneliness is a major risk factor for depression, but it is also linked to heart disease, a weakened immune system, Alzheimer’s disease, and even death, says a study by the University of Chicago. Creating and sustaining meaningful relationships and participating in meaningful activities can help individuals find more purpose and connection. In some cases, it may be helpful to move into a senior living facility in an effort to connect with others and gain a sense of community. Senior living facilities today are more focused on the holistic health of their residents than in years past,

as well as providing a nurturing and homelike environment. Neighborhood/ household models To imitate a neighborhood feel, Jewish Senior Life has created three Green House Cottages. In each cottage are three homes with twelve residents in each, and each resident has a private bedroom suite and personal bathroom. The homes feature a communal, open kitchen space with a single dining table for intimate dinner conversation. Recreation therapy at Jewish Senior Life features a wide variety of activities and programs to provide stimulation as well. Residents can participate in exercise programs like Tai Chi and yoga to strengthen their minds and bodies while interacting with others. The facility also offers a thirty-eight–bed memory care unit for

individuals suffering from Alzheimer’s or dementia. Jewish Senior Life was the first certified care community in the Rochester area to offer the Music & Memory program. Residents with cognitive and physical challenges are given iPods with personalized playlists to tap into deep memories, leading to improved energy and connection. Fairport Baptist Homes also has a household model, and each household has private and semiprivate bedrooms for ten to twelve residents as well as a family-style kitchen and living/dining area. Seniors are encouraged to bring their personal furnishings—and even their pets—from home to provide a sense of familiarity and comfort. Residents can socialize in the cafeteria, which serves meals and snacks throughout the day. They also gather in the common areas for movies, work on puzzles together, and participate in a variety of activities as a group, at home, and out in the community. Other activities include playing bingo and trivia games, celebrating birthday dinners, listening to live music, dancing in a Zumba class, bowling, and more. There are weekly religious services for seniors at Fairport Baptist Homes (Catholic and Protestant) as well. Continuing education & community service Rochester’s only university-based retirement community, the Highlands at Pittsford, is a short walk away from many shops and restaurants, the Erie Canal, Schoen Place, and the Pittsford Library. All physicians onsite are board-certified University of Rochester Medical Center faculty members. A partnership with the University of Rochester also means access to exclusive lectures from professors and staff members of the university as well as the opportunity to take part in biology labs and interactive cooking classes. Community service is one way to boost mood and find a sense of purpose, and residents of Highlands at Pittsford give back to the community in many ways, like a recent bake sale to benefit the Ronald McDonald House. Participants presented the proceeds at the house and were given a tour of the facility. Other activities include wine pairing dinners, trips to Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra performances, computer/technology classes, an annual fashion show fundraiser, and much more. 585mag.com | March/April 2020

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Staying active (mind and body) Ferris Hills at West Lake and Clark Meadows at Ferris Hills in Canandaigua provide independent and enriched living for seniors, with a continuum of skilled nursing care available at nearby Thompson Health. Each year, Ferris Hills hosts the local chapter of Great Decisions, the country’s oldest global affairs education program (run through the Foreign Policy Association), with an eight-week series of group discussions on various topics facilitated by content experts. Painting classes keep the creativity juices flowing, while book clubs and a bridge club keep minds active. A number of concerts—including jazz, classical, and more—are hosted right onsite, but residents also venture out to theater performances and other events in the Finger Lakes and Rochester area during group outings. Each year, residents and staff form a team for the local Walk to End Alzheimer’s, and there are a number of exercise classes on the activity calendar as well. Ferris Hills hosts several parties throughout the year, as well as an annual car show and casino night. Choices abound Living alone can lead to a variety of health issues. No matter where you choose to live or place your elderly loved ones, remember to focus on mental and physical activity, meaningful relationships, and community service in an effort to boost mood, foster a sense of purpose, and perhaps just live longer. Jewish Senior Life 2021 S. Winton Rd., Rochester 427-7760 jewishseniorlife.org Fairport Baptist Homes 4646 Fairport Nine Mile Point Rd., Fairport 377-0350 fairportbaptisthomes.org Highlands of Pittsford 100 Hahnemann Trl., Pittsford 586-7600 highlandsatpittsford.org Ferris Hills at West Lake 1 Ferris Hills, Canandaigua 393-0410

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

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Bird of Paradise Productions presents

An Evening in Granada T he guit ar m usic of S pain

Ja son V ieaux

G ram m y A w ard W inner: B est S ol o C l assical A l b um

Saturday, March 21, 2020 8pm Hochstein Performance Hall 50 N. Plymouth Ave. Rochester NY jason vieaux.eventbrite.com

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Taste

Fine fare | Table for Naz | Dining guide Critical drinking

Voici le chef Lyonnaise

French Week at Rooneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is a tasty, time-honored tradition

Photos by Kate Melton

By Leah Stacy

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Fine fare

Terrine

The French have a saying that goes “les carottes sont cuites,” meaning, literally, “the carrots are cooked,” and figuratively, “it’s all over now,” or “the dice are cast.” It speaks to the French way of accepting and making the best of given circumstances. The story behind French Week at Rooney’s Restaurant, an annual event now entering its fourteenth year, is one of cooked carrots, or perhaps happy accidents. But it really begins nearly fifteen years ago, when a computer network engineer from Morocco decided to buy a small restaurant in the Swillburg neighborhood of Rochester. Joe Squalli comes from a family of hoteliers, but he attended Rochester Institute of Technology for computer technology in the 1980s. Then came the dot-com crash in the early 2000s, leaving him a choice between starting his own tech firm or returning to the business he knew well: restaurants. “I was born into the business, and I had no intention of staying in it,” he says. “But life works in mysterious ways.” Rooney’s Restaurant opened in the late 1970s, but the building has been there since the late 1800s, when it was a saloon on the banks of the original Erie Canal (which 58

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Salad Lyonnaise

used to run where the 490 expressway now sits). When the previous owner of Rooney’s, Austria native Johannes Mueller, decided to step back in the early 2000s due to the strain of running both Rooney’s and Richardson’s Canal House, Squalli had a serendipitous run-in with Mueller’s wife, Alexis. The two had worked together at the upscale Rio Bamba (in the current Ox & Stone location) on Alexander Street when Squalli was in college. “It happened by accident,” says Squalli. “[Alexis] mentioned [Mueller] was considering selling Rooney’s but thought he had a buyer already. I said, ‘if it falls through, tell him to call me.’ Sure enough, the next week he called me.” By 2005, Squalli was the owner and operator of Rooney’s Restaurant. He was quick to implement new ideas, and his most ambitious was guest chef takeovers. “My dilemma, in a way, was how established Rooney’s was,” he says. “It’s survived all these years for a reason — there are unique dishes patrons know and love, like our plantain crusted shrimp, and they’d tell me, ‘Joe, don’t take this off the menu.’ So I had to maintain some things but also innovate a little and introduce new flavors.”

It made the most sense to begin digging into the restaurant’s existing European theme. Squalli, with his thick accent, easily passes as a convincing host for a French Week. But since he isn’t a chef, his challenge was to find someone who could do a complete French kitchen takeover. “I wanted authentic French cuisine, where we make our own stocks for everything— lobster, chicken, beef,” he says. “But then I had to find someone really good. Chefs are great in their environment, with their team and equipment, but it’s not easy to put someone in a new kitchen and expect them to create magic.” Enter kismet. Around the same time, Squalli’s wife, Laila, was doing her PhD research in Lyon, France—the capital of French cuisine. The Squallis had not been married long, and they were feeling the pressure of two demanding careers and the distance. When Laila confided some of these challenges to a colleague, her friend understood, offering their own example of a brother who was a chef at the internationally known Brasserie Georges, the oldest brasserie in Lyon and one of the largest brasseries in Europe. That’s when Joe knew he had a lead. “I said, ‘What!—get me his phone

Taste | Fine fare number,’” says Squalli. “Of course, he didn’t know where Rochester was. I explained it wasn’t New York City, but we wanted him to come and be a guest chef. He got excited—he’d never been to the States. He had a ton of ideas for the menu already.” Soon after their call, Chef Said Touyar mailed Squalli a packet filled with menu ideas, and in 2007, he flew in for the first French Week at Rooney’s. He used his vacation time for the trip, flying in on a Saturday for a Tuesday start time to French Week. “I remember vividly that night—I picked him up at the airport, and we stopped at the restaurant first so he could see the kitchen,” Squalli says. “He had three days to prepare a whole menu, and the poor guy had jet lag. Here he is coming from one of the biggest brasseries in Europe, into our older, small kitchen. He looked at me and said, ‘what is this?’” But, “les carottes sont cuites.” Chef Touyar woke up at seven the next morning and got to work, assisted by sous chef Minh Nguyen, who’s been at Rooney’s for more than thirty years. But that’s when reality hit. “Half of the ingredients we didn’t have, and our purveyors would have to special order,” says Squalli. “All of his recipes were in the metric system and Celsius, and he didn’t speak much English.” Fortunately, Squalli was able to create conversion charts while also finding most of the ingredients. He spent the day driving all over to pick products up and overnighted other products from New York City. Squalli also speaks fluent French and could help translate in the kitchen. All the while, Rooney’s was open for regular hours. That Monday night, Squalli didn’t sleep. He’d sent out thousands of mailers, advertised the event, and they had reservations. What if this was a horrible mistake? “I was really nervous,” Squalli says. “But early that afternoon, he made something. I took a bite, and all the nerves, all the fear, everything I was feeling was just gone. It was just a vegetable custard, but it was that good. I said, ‘oh my God, this guy is the real deal.’ He had everything against him, and he still excelled.” Chef Touyar has continued his residency each French Week for fourteen years, continuing even after his retirement from Brasserie Georges. He’s become friends with patrons of Rooney’s, hosting some of them in Lyon and staying in touch with them online. And while it’s labeled “French Week,” it’s really ten days each April. Many patrons will dine as many as six times during French Week, and tables book fast, so reservations are recommended. rooneysrestaurant.com

Top to bottom: Rooney’s executive chef Richard O’Hearn, French chef Said Touyar, and sous chef Minh Nguyen; tarte tatin; cassoulet 585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Table for Naz

Cravable comfort

Young’s Korean hits the warm and cozy spot By Naz Banu

Young’s Korean Restaurant 120 Mushroom Blvd. 427-7650 Winter—the season that never ends in Rochester. I crave hearty and stick-to-the bone meals to keep my faltering spirit alive, but there is only so much mac n’ cheese one can eat. After much hunting, I found Young’s Korean to be an unexpected source of winter comfort food. Tucked away in a nondescript plaza on a street that’s easily missed, Young’s is one of the lesser-known gems in town. When you walk in, it is obvious that Young’s Korean is a small mom-andpop operation. The space is bright and clean, albeit minimally decorated. The servers are friendly and efficient. The drink selection is on the lighter side, with Korean barley tea, standard sodas, and some soju (a Korean distilled beverage) varieties. This is where you come for a comforting meal with no frills. Every table gets a collection of side dishes known as banchan. At Young’s, the banchan selection consists of kimchi (spicy fermented cabbage), spicy pickled cucumbers, braised bean sprouts, steamed tofu drizzled with soy sauce, and a couple of rotating dishes (my favorite being the sweet soy braised potato). These serve as accompaniments to your meal. Does your dish need a little kick? Bite into the spicy cucumber or kimchi. Prefer your dish a little tart? Pickled white radish to the rescue. Want a little crunch? Try the bean sprouts. It is fun to customize each bite to the flavor you want by adding different banchan. The menu is large and can seem overwhelming. After countless visits where I over ordered, I have nailed down the crowd pleasers—all in the name of scientific research, of course. Start with a pajeon—a Korean pancake filled with a var iety of ingredients. Vegetable, kimchi, or seafood? You can’t go wrong. My go-to is the vegetable version. The crispy exterior and slightly chewy interior along with the slight sweetness of shredded carrots, scallions, and other vegetables is delicious on its own. Dip it in the side of soy sauce that comes with sesame seeds and a tiny bit of Korean chili powder for an umami boost. As far as entrees go, bulgogi is a delicious 60

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Vegetable pajeon

Photos by Kate Melton

Taste | Table for Naz

Shrimp yache-bokkeum 585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Table for Naz

A Youngâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Korean spread

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Taste | Table for Naz

Bulgogi

place to start.Thinly sliced beef caramelized with a sweet soy sauce, served on top of a sizzling hot plate, it is American barbeque’s Korean cousin. If you want to try another classic Korean dish, get the dolsot bibimbop. Several types of vegetables and bulgogi are arranged over white rice in a hot stoneware bowl with a raw egg cracked over it. Mix all the components quickly so that the egg cooks and all the ingredients blend well. Squeeze a little bit of gochujang (Korean chili paste that’s sweet and slightly spicy) on top. At the bottom, there will be some toasted rice (due to the heat of the bowl)—similar to soccarat, the delicious bottom layer of paella. Each bite will taste different (but equally tasty) because of the many components. I have heard rumors (ok, I’ve had many personal experiences!) that bibimbop is hard to stop eating, as it feels like a new dish with every bite.

If you prefer to live on the spicy side (like me), head on over to the yache-bokkeum options. My favorite is the shrimp yachebokkeum—juicy shrimp stir fried with bell peppers, cabbage, and onions in a very spicy gochugaru (Korean version of chili flakes) sauce. You can also get this with tofu, chicken, squid, or octopus. You might need a lot of rice to get through this dish, but the flavor will be worth it! Korean cuisine is well known for its soups and stews, the most iconic one being sundubu cyigae. The ingredients are much simpler than the name might imply—it is silky tofu and vegetable in a broth seasoned liberally with Korean chili paste/flakes. There are nonspicy stews available as well. However, it is probably fifteen degrees outside as you read this, so the sundubu chigae will give you the warmth you probably haven’t felt since

August. Enjoying spoonfuls of this soft tofu stew combined with rice is akin to being enveloped in a cozy blanket (and as a bonus, you will breathe a lot better afterward, as the spice will help kick congestion to the curb). Young’s Korean also has staples such as fried rice and teriyaki—good versions, too. However, it is still really, functionally, winter. Stews, soups, stir fries (and even the sweet and spicy fried chicken) at Young’s will keep you warm in an unexpectedly familiar way. Naz Banu is a software engineer by day and a food appreciator by night (and day). She is often seen trying to convince people to try the spicy salsa for once. Follow her on Instagram at @tablefornaz.

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste

Dining guide ASIAN

BARBECUE

1802 Penfield Rd., Penfield, 385-2808, hongwahrestaurant.com

326 W. Commercial St., East Rochester and 3308 Chili Ave., Rochester; 203-1576, goodsmokebbq.com

Hong Wah Restaurant

Quality Chinese fare at a very nice price. Menu is extensive and tailored to the American palate. Honored for being one of America’s healthiest in the Top 100 Chinese Restaurant Dining Guide. L&D: Daily     G $ Juicy Seafood 3020 Winton Rd. S., Rochester, 622-9468, facebook.com/JuicySeafoodRochester

Beloved for its “boils,” which come in a bag with two potatoes and a half ear of corn, this reasonably priced seafood establishment introduces Viet-Cajun cuisine to Rochester. Choose from an extensive menu consisting of boiled or fried options, then further customize your meal by making it a combo and deciding on your choice of seasoning and level of spice. L&D: Daily     $$

Khong Thai Cuisine

260 Winton Rd. N., Rochester 434-2238, khongthaicuisine.com

Sak Southi, co-owner of Sak’s Thai Cuisine in Fairport, has opened a fast-casual eatery. Noodle dishes include pad thai and udon noodle, and there is a variety of soups and entrées such as pad peow wan, pad phet, and choo chee pla. L&D: W–M     G $$

Osaka Sushi 3240 Chili Ave., Rochester; 3685 W. Henrietta Rd., Rochester, 571-4889, osakasushi.com Hibachi, teriyaki, and sushi, oh my! All-you-can-eat is the way to go. Dine in or take out (no, there isn’t an all-youcan-carry option) and check out the new Henrietta location. L&D: Daily  I    $ Thai by Night 123 S. Main St., Canandaigua 412-6261, thaibynightny.com

A modern take on traditional Southern cooking. There are the brisket, ribs, and chicken you expect, plus surprises like fried bologna sandwiches, Tennessee tacos, and smoked portobello mushrooms. Bacon, here, is called pig candy. L&D: Daily   $

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que

99 Court St., 325-7090, dinosaurbarbeque.com

Considered by many to be the gold standard in Rochester barbecue, this joint is almost always packed, especially when there’s a good band booked. An excellent choice for an inexpensive, downtown crowd pleaser. Leave yourself a little extra time for parking. L&D: Daily    I G $ Route 96 BBQ 6385 Route 96, Victor, 742-2026, route96bbq.com

Ribs, pork, and brisket slow-cooked daily with pure hickory ... what could be better? Choose to make it a sandwich or get a “tray,” which comes with a choice of side, pickles, and pork rinds. Enjoy a rustic, barn-like atmosphere while you dine. L&D: Tu–Sa     $$ The Saltbox Smokehouse 6152 Barclay Rd., Sodus, (315) 553-2663, thesaltboxsmokehouse.com

A relaxed, rustic environment pairs with meats that are smoked in-house and offered for eat-in or carry out from the deli. Specializing in bacon and offering more than fifteen varieties, this new smokehouse between Oswego and Rochester offers unique menu options that feature its own tasty cured meats. Be sure to try the chocolate chunk cookie with bacon bits. D: F–Sa; Br&L: Tu–Sa    $

Sticky Lips BBQ

830 Jefferson Rd., Henrietta; 288-1910, stickylipsbbq.com

World War II–themed pit barbecue restaurant. Texas and Memphis-style barbecue leads the menu with a nod to Carolina-style, although without the purist’s minced pork and vinegar sauce. Southern sides are available, as well as a smokehouse twist on the Rochester garbage plate. Amid all this meat is a respectable vegetarian menu. L&D: Daily  I     $

John Guattery returns to his native Canandaigua after cooking in kitchens all over the States to open an authentic Thai restaurant with traditional dishes like pad see ew and gai yang. Pair your meal with options of local wine and beer L: T–Th; D: T–Sa     $

Texas Blues BBQ

Thai Mii Up

Three-Legged Pig BBQ

1780 E. Ridge Rd., Irondequoit, 491-6331, facebook. com/Thai.mii.up

This Thai/Laotian restaurant opened in 2016 and has a hot reputation for authentic cuisine, friendly service, and—as is evidenced by the saucy name—a lively sense of humor. “Mii” is Laotian for noodles, and the ones here are house made. L&D: Tu–Su    G $

Tsingtao House

2831 W. Henrietta Rd., 272-8008, tsingtaohouserochester.com

There’s the Chinese food white people grew up with, and then there’s the real kind. Tsingtao House is squarely the latter. This immigrant family–owned kitchen doesn’t compromise its menu to Western tastes, and we’re all the richer for it. Shredded jellyfish and ox tongue are among the more exotic fare, but don’t underestimate the addictive power of the simple braised fish and brown sauce. L&D: M–Sa      $$

Yellow Elephant Eatery

6687 Pittsford Palmyra Rd., Rochester 223-7333, yellowelephanteatery.com

Kam Tai, owner of Flavors of Asia at 831 S. Clinton Ave. has partnered with Vicky Chanthavisinh to open Yellow Elephant, an adventurous and innovative Asian fusion restaurant. House-made recipes include a rice plate, sesame beef, and noodle bowl, as well as a variety of soups like coconut curry and tom yum. L&D: M–Sa    $$

Good Smoke BBQ

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

649 Monroe Ave., 319-4436, texasbluesbbqrochester.com

A quick stop for a smoked brisket or pulled pork sandwich or one of several Southerninspired burgers. Ribs are served St. Louis style, grilled with the sauce. L&D: Daily     $

3415 Rochester Rd., Lakeville, 346-0001, 3leggedpig.com

A small pit barbecue spot that gets the fundamentals right. St. Louis- and Carolinastyle ribs and brisket are on the menu along with burgers, smoked chicken, and sausage. The food is value priced and takeout friendly. L&D: Tu–Su    I  $

BISTRO

Bad Apples Bistro

42 Nichols St., Suite 4, Spencerport, 352-2231, badapplesbistro.com

Spencerport residents have another reason not to drive to the city for dinner—and more people from the city are making the drive for a unique casual gourmet experience. Epicureans will want to try the seared skate wing, the salmon succotash, or the beet and apple soup—but there are enough more familiar items to satisfy the less adventurous. Kids’ menu includes a four-ounce steak fillet. L&D: Tu–F; D: Sa     G  $$

Bar Bantam

1 South Clinton Ave., 454-1052, barbantam.com

Housed in the lobby of the Metropolitan building, this restaurant serves as a quick and accommodating dining option perfect for busy people, whether it be breakfast in the morning or happy hour at night. Selections include a wide variety of sandwiches and salads, as well as beer, wine, and cocktails. B&L: M–Th; D: Tu–Sa     G

Bistro 11

11 W. Main St., Victor, 924-3660, bistro11.net

Italian-style, casual dining in downtown Victor. The Mulcahy Sandwich is a vestige of the property’s previous life as McGhan’s Nearly Famous Pub. Good selection of local beer and wine. L&D: Tu–Sa; Closed: Su, M     $

The (585) Dining Guide is a rotating list of area restaurants independently selected by members of the editorial staff. All phone numbers are in the (585) area code unless otherwise noted. Is there a restaurant you think should be included in our Dining Guide, or do you have a correction? Please e-mail us at info@585publishing. com or fax to 413-0296. Listings in purple are new to the Dining Guide this issue. Price symbols indicate how much diners can expect to spend for an entrée without tax or tip.

$ .................under $13 $$ ..................$14 - $23 $$$ .............. $24 and up ................. Cash Only

 ................ Wheelchair Accessible

I .... Outdoor Seating

Available Seasonally

 ....... Serves Alcohol  ....... Family-Friendly  .........Makes special effort for vegetarians

 ...Parking Available G ..............Gluten Free

Taste | Dining guide Label Seven

50 State St., Pittsford, 267-7500, labelseven.com

Hip, cozy west coast dining experience on the canal. Bright red walls and antique furniture accent white tablecloth dining. Menu choices are inspired by California casual cuisine and the Baja, its Mexican counterpart—except for the French Market Poutine, a concoction from across the other border, with beef brisket, chili, and cheddar curd. L&D: M–Sa; Br: Su     I  $$

Mendon 64 1369 Pittsford Mendon Rd., Mendon, 433-9464, mendon64.com

The restaurant formerly known as the Mendon House has found new life under the management team behind the Cottage Hotel and Penfield’s Pour House, but it’s a little more upscale. The dinner menu sports a wide array of seasonal choices, in the pub is a small but very unusual selection of simple, sturdy dishes, and there is live music most nights and a monthly rotating art exhibit. D: Tu–Sa  I    $$$

REDD Rochester

24 Winthrop St., Rochester, 483-7333, reddrochester.com

The highly anticipated REDD boasts a menu that packs a diverse punch with standout dishes such as the decadent Maine lobster risotto and multiple wood-fired pizzas. Years of international culinary experience from co-owner Richard Reddington make every item served worth trying. L: M–F; D: M–Sa; Br: Su  I    $$

it should, from pasta to antipasti. An open-air dining room allows patrons to observe the corner brick oven where pizzas are blistered to perfection. L: M–F; D: Daily  I     $$

The Peppered Pig 1759 Empire Blvd. Webster, 347-6479, thepigroc.com

French fare meets an accessible and elegant atmosphere in the latest addition to the local European restaurant scene. The menu boasts pork and duck from apps to entrées, as well as a specialized brunch menu. And of course, what French eatery would be complete without a well-considered wine list? L: Daily; D: M–Sa; Br: Sa–Su  I   $$

Relish

651 South Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 454-2767, relishdelivers.com

Morphing from its former incarnation as a meal delivery service, Relish now serves imaginative, impressive dinners in its tiny, intimate dining room. You can still get Stephen Rees’s locally sourced, prepared and/ or frozen meals, though—just order online and walk in for pickup (he also delivers). It’s BYOB, but if you forget your bottle, don’t worry—there’s a liquor store next door. L: Tu–Sa D: Th–Sa     G $

The Red Fern

283 Oxford St., Rochester (Park Avenue), 563-7633, redfernrochester.com

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Roam Café 260 Park Ave., Rochester (East End), 360-4165, roamcafe.com

Cozy, upscale Park Avenue bistro with a fresh American classics menu that wanders into Italian territory. (Don’t miss the arancini.) A few of the entrées are marked paleo-friendly for followers of the “caveman diet.” L&D: Daily     G $$

Six50

7217 Rte. 96, Victor; 398-8277, six-50.com

Six50 serves up a menu filled with twists on Italian classics like pizza and pasta along with a healthy offering of appetizers, salads, and sandwiches. Most ingredients in the scratch kitchen are sourced locally. Menu highlights include the Butchers Pie, a rotating pizza-of-the-day, and mussels cevennes, which is served in chardonnay sauce with crusty peasant bread. L&D: Daily  I     G $$ New York Kitchen Restaurant

800 S. Main St., Canandaigua, 394-7070, nywcc.com/UpstairsBistro

The restaurant above the New York Kitchen showcases the state’s meat and produce with helpful New York wine and beer pairing suggestions. If you like what you sipped, you can buy a bottle from the tasting room downstairs. “Manhattan-style” brunches on the weekends. Beautiful views of Canandaigua Lake from the patio. L&D: M–Sa; Br: Su  I     $$

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The Owl House

75 Marshall St., Rochester (Lower Monroe), 360-2920, owlhouserochester.com

The chefs begin with farm-to-table, local ingredients and produce creative dishes. A rotating grilled cheese special is reason enough to visit several times in one week, and desserts are refreshed daily as well (and generally vegan). Menu specials are posted on Facebook each morning, including original craft cocktails and drafts. L&D: Tu–Su I    G $$

Panzari’s Italian Bistro

321 Exchange Blvd., Rochester (Corn Hill), 546-7990, panzarisitalianbistro.com

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141 Sullys Trail, Suite 3 Pittsford, NY 14534 UpstatePainClinic.com

This cozy bistro in the heart of Corn Hill Landing boasts an Italian menu that shines in every way

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Dining guide This charming restaurant serves an entirely vegan menu with many gluten-free options, including a healthy take on Rochester’s trademark “plate” and mac ‘n’ cheese nachos made from cashews. The baked goods, which are available wholesale, can be found at eateries around the city (the creative donut flavors are especially popular). Catering is available. L&D: Tu–Su I    G$

Roux 688 Park Ave., Rochester, 461-2960, rouxparkave.com

This French kitchen and nouveau cocktail bar artfully prepares classic French fare using local farm ingredients paired with an all-French wine list. Roux also boasts an absinthe fountain, Parisian decor, and a savvy bar staff. One of the best spots in the Park Ave cultural district to sit outside (or in a window booth, if it’s cold) and watch the world go by. B: Sa–Su; L: M, W–F; D: Daily  I   $$

TRATA 145 Culver Rd., Rochester, 270-5460, tratarochester.com

The casual corporate cousin of Black and Blue, Village Bakery, and JoJo’s Wine Bar, TRATA is one of the main draws to the Culver Road Armory. The decor is slick and industrial with lots of exposed brick. The menu is catnip for foodies. Ever feel like a duck quesadilla or a beer cocktail made with bacon? This is where you belong. L&D: M–F; D: Daily; Br: Su  I    G  $$

GREEK/MEDITERRANEAN

602 South Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 473-1300, cheesyeddies.com

646 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 264-9000, and 8 Schoen Pl., Pittsford, 264-9000, myaladdins.com

Cheesy Eddie’s

The family-run business has been producing some of Rochester’s finest cheesecake creations for weddings, dinner parties, and holiday gatherings. Cheesy Eddie’s fare can be found in dessert cases across the city, but the South Wedge location has tables inside for patrons who want to enjoy a pastry with their morning coffee. Closed: Su   $ Caramel Bakery and Bar 647 Park Ave., Rochester, 978-7898, caramelbakeryandbar.com

A dine-in bakery with a romantic and relaxed environment. Sit at the bar or in the cozy dining room and enjoy the mixture of creativity and taste that is offered. Suggested local beer and wine allow guests to complement their dessert or savory sharable. Featured as one of Nick’s Picks, each decadent dessert is served to please both the eye and the palate. D: W–Sa; Br: Su; Closed: M–Tu     G $$

Chocolate and Vines

757 University Ave., Rochester (NOTA), 340-6362, chocolateandvines.com

The Vesper Kitchen and Bar

The servers at Rochester’s first regional dessert and wine bar are trained to suggest a pairing with any of the desserts (from fresh ricotta cream cannolis to hazelnut layer cake). It’s a beautiful complement to their large international wine selection. They also concoct their own chocolates, with flavors ranging from passion panna cotta white chocolate to cinnamon and habañero milk chocolate. D: Daily   I    $

1 Capron St., Rochester (Downtown), 454-1996, rocthevesper.com

Sweet Mist

The Vesper’s name is in homage to a drink created by James Bond, who, of course, had named that for a stunning woman. The place feels upscale and trendy, with a bar made of pallets and a limited but playful menu. For example, from the raw bar, order the Trust Fund: a Vesper Martini, two oysters, two shrimp, ceviche, half an ounce of caviar, and stuffed olives. L: Th–F; D: M– Sa     G  $$

Liquid nitrogen ice cream is the latest fun dessert craze to take the nation and one has finally landed in Rochester. The menu features ample flavor options ranging from traditional (salted caramel, french vanilla, pistachio) to completely inventive (saffron, chocolate covered pretzels, Mountain Dew).     $

Zambistro 408 Main St., Medina, 798-2433, zambistro.com

Comfort food favorites are rebuilt here for the demanding connoisseur’s palate. The sirloin’s dusted with espresso for both sizzle and buzz. The tuna comes in a tuxedo of prosciutto and potatoes. How could you possibly improve meatloaf? Wrap it in bacon. L&D: M– Sa  I     $$

CAJUN The French Quarter Café 130 Spring St., Rochester, 987-6432; thefqc.com

A beautifully converted house plays host to Creole meals that wouldn’t be out of place on the dinner table of a Louisiana grandma. The crawfish and jambalaya set the stage, as does a Natchitoches meat pie—but you might want to try the Sicilian chicken, a favorite of Italian immigrants to New Orleans. L&D: W–Sa     $

The Spirit Room 139 State St., Rochester, 397-7595 thespiritroomroc.com

A mixture of Rochester history, spirituality, and Southern-style cooking make this craft cocktail bar and literary lounge a hub for local history and art. The bar is styled after the Spiritualism movement that swept Rochester in the late 1800s, something that shines through in the Spirit Room’s macabre yet energetic atmosphere. Regular tarot card readings are offered, as well as music and poetry readings. D: Tu–Su  I   $$

DESSERT

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

3259 S. Winton Rd. Rochester, 413-3512, sweet-mist.com

GERMAN

Rheinblick German Restaurant

224 S. Main St., Canandaigua (Downtown Canandaigua), 905-0950, restaurant-rheinblick.com

Menu goes beyond usual brats and kraut into fare that could be found anywhere along the banks of the River Rhine. If you’re hungry, dig into the schweinshaxe, a towering roasted pork shank. You can also choose among ten different kinds of schnitzel. On the appetizer menu, travelers will spot currywurst, the predominant street food of Berlin. The beer and wine list comes straight from the old country. L&D: W–M   I  $$

Swan Market

231 Parsels Ave., Rochester, 288-5320, swanmarket.com

Eating here is like stepping into a wayback machine; the eighty-year-old property looks like it hasn’t changed a bit. Lunch offerings are basic: schnitzel, roast pork, or sausage with traditional German sides. Communal seating is available among shelves of German grocery imports. Be sure to pick up something for home on the way out. L: W–Sa   $

Unter Biergarten

120 East Ave., Rochester 360-4010, unterbiergarten.com

A German-style beer hall located in the space that previously housed Victoire. Includes twenty-four draft lines of classic German beer, as well as some familiar favorites. German traditional food is served regularly, including fried bologna, sausage, and pretzels. Food served until 10 p.m. L&D: Daily I   $$

Aladdin’s Natural Eatery

The benefits of a Mediterranean diet are well known, and Aladdin’s markets its menu as healthy, all-natural, and inexpensive—and made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients wherever possible. Most items on the menu are under $10. L&D: Daily    $

Cedar Mediterranean Restaurant

746 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 442-7751, facebook.com/ Cedar-Mediterranean-Restaurant

Looking for good value without sacrificing flavor or your health? Try this family-run joint where the pita bread—a fan favorite—is made to order. There are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, and you can eat in or take it to go. L&D: M–Sa     G $

Levantine’s

750 Elmgrove Rd, Rochester, 434-0441, levantinescafe.com

This Mediterranean spot offers Levant food in decent portions with standout items like falafel, kibbeh, and the chicken kabob wrap. Get it in-house or have it catered for a unique option at the next potluck. L&D: Tu–Su     $

Olive’s Greek Taverna and Restaurant

50 State St., Pittsford, 381-3990, olivespittsford.com

Straight-forward family-owned Greek restaurant where the moussaka is made fresh daily and the dolmades come to your table steaming. A few nods to the trendy include Cuban and Buffalo chicken gyros. Baklava and Yaya’s Chocolate Snowball await for dessert. L&D: M–Sa  I   $

Voula’s Greek Sweets

439 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 242-0935, facebook.com/voulasgreeksweets

Leave busy Monroe Avenue and walk into what feels like someone’s country kitchen. Fresh baklava, kataifi, and other sticky, honey-drizzled Greek desserts line the display case, but first you need to have lunch. Spanakopita and other stuffed phyllo offerings share the menu with items like lagana bread and five Mediterranean spreads. Fresh soups and salads also available. L: Daily; D: Th    $

FINE DINING

80W 7 Lawrence St., Rochester, 730-14607, 80wrochester.com

Created as an homage to its owners’ private spaces, this sophisticated lounge promotes conversation in an environment that mimics an inviting living room. Relax on a distressed leather sofa or overstuffed chair and delve into the assortment of cocktails, craft beers, and world-class wines. Complement with tasty small-plate fare and enjoy the atmosphere of the dimly lit high-end environment. It’s a good spot to spend an evening or unwind before a night out to the theater or philharmonic. D: W–M; Br: Su  I    G $$

Atlas Eats Kitchen & Bake Shop

2185 N. Clinton Ave., Rochester (Irondequoit), 544-1300, atlas-eats.com

To place Atlas Eats in the fine dining section is almost to do it a disservice, because it’s not expensive, especially not for breakfast and lunch. But it is truly fine dining. Dinners are prix fixe, there are only four seatings per weekend, and the globally inspired, sophisticated menu changes every two weeks. B&L: Th–Sa; D: F–Sa; Br: Su  I     $$

Avvino

2451 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Brighton), avvinorochester.com

Chef Tim Caschette taps local farmers to craft a seasonal menu showcasing the region’s agricultural bounty. The menu is high-end New American with lots of interna-

Taste | Dining guide tional choices but still approachable. The curious will appreciate curveballs like chicken-fried pork cheeks or pastrami pho. Attention to detail is this restaurant’s hallmark. Wine glasses are “primed”: a sample is swirled in the glass and discarded until there’s nothing to taste but the wine. D: Tu–Sa  I     G $$

Farmer’s Creekside Tavern & Inn

Bacco’s Ristorante

The definition of destination dining, Creekside opened in 2017 after many years of remodeling—the stone building had been all but destroyed in a fire more than a decade ago. You can go high-end here or opt for pub fare, and it’s all tasty. Impressive views. Rooms available. L&D: M–Sa; Br&D: Su      $$$

the new Joey B’s is bigger, more accessible, and just as tasty. The old-school menu is loaded with favorites like shrimp scampi, grilled filet, and rack of lamb, but there’s more than a touch of French flair—try the duck breast a l’orange or escargot. The chicken French (while not so very French) is as good as any and better than most. L: Tu–F; D: Tu–Su; Br: Su      $$

263 Park Ave., Rochester (East End), baccosristorante.com

Joey B’s

The Kitchen

Reservations are recommended for this cozy, home-like Italian bistro on Park Avenue. Appetizers like melenzana napolean and beef carpaccio set the stage for red meat entrées or pasta dishes you’ll want to eat with lots of fresh bread to sop up the homemade sauces. D: Tu–Sa    G $$

1325 Elmwood Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 377-9030, joeybsrestaurant.com

5 S. Main St., Pittsford, 310-2467, thekitchenpittsford.com

Regulars protested when their beloved date night go-to spot left Fairport for new digs closer to town, but

Enjoy a multi course meal in an intimate dining space, where chefs go from empty plate to final garnish right

1 Main St., Le Roy, 768-6007, farmerscreekside.com

Big Tree Inn 46 Main St., Geneseo, 243-5220 bigtreein.com

Originally built in 1833, this historic landmark combines hospitality and wholesome cuisine. Enjoy a meal on the front porch or dine in the warm setting of the tavern or restaurant. Offering products from many local breweries and wineries, each guest’s experience is unique and memorable. L&D: M–Sa; Br: Su  I     G $$ Bristol Harbour’s Tavern at the Point Restaurant 5410 Seneca Point Rd., Canandaigua, 396-2200, bristolharbour.com

Fabulous views of Canandaigua Lake, creative, freshly prepared cuisine, and an extensive beverage menu featuring many Finger Lakes wines and beers are all yours at this dining destination. Finish your meal with a famous house-made dessert. B: Sa–Su; L&D: F–Su   I  G $$

The Cub Room 739 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 363-5694, thecubroomroc.com

Located in the highly anticipated Edge of the Wedge building, the Cub Room is a restaurant opened by a husband and wife team. The menu appeals to adventurous palates, with dishes like beet and gorgonzola ravioli, grilled octopus, and house-smoked pork cheeks. The dining room is an airy, loft-style space with a touch of pre-Prohibition design. L&D: M–F; D: Sa–Su; Br: Su     $$$

Cure 50 Public Market, Rochester, 563-7941, curebar.net

French-inspired cuisine near the Rochester Public Market featuring charcuterie and eclectic appetizers washed down with a respectable list of wines, beers, and craft cocktails. The house-made tonic is a must, and Thursdays are reserved for Menu du Voyageur, a prix fixe menu that investigates the cuisine of a particular region of France. Cure becomes Java’s at the Market on Saturday mornings. D: W–Su; Br: Su  I    $$

Good Luck 50 Anderson Ave., Rochester (NOTA), 340-6161, restaurantgoodluck.com

Hewn-wood tables, mismatched chairs, and bare lighting fixtures give this warehouse restaurant a rustic vibe. Farm-to-table menu features seasonal family-style dishes. The Inspired Table dining series gives guests a chance to see dinner courses prepared and learn about the food. Lively happy hour and bar scene enhanced by a creative craft cocktail selection. D: W–Sa     $$$

The Erie Grill 41 N. Main St., Pittsford, 419-3032, eriegrill.com

Dishes like rabbit sausage and duck meatballs are meant to draw foodies to this upscale, “reinvented” restaurant in a Marriott hotel. Gourmet offerings extend into the breakfast and lunch menus. Cocktails are refreshing and inventive. B, L&D: Daily  I     $$$

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Critical drinking

Rescuing the daiquiri

It’s not about frozen strawberries—we promise By Tomas Flint

Let’s face it, the 80s were rough on American pop culture. If you disagree, I’d question whether your affinity stems from nostalgia or an actual endorsement of an era marked by acid-washed jeans, blazers with shoulder pads, big hair, and neon everything. Reaganomics, the Cold War, Magnum P.I., Steve Winwood, for crying out loud.The boy genius who sang lead vocal on “Gimmie Some Lovin’” for the Spencer Davis Group at age fifteen would re-emerge with synth drum beats and peg pant suits. Oy vey, the humanity. Throughout the decade, what happened in the way of fashion and music would resonate in the food and drink scene. The 80s are considered by many to have been the dark ages of cocktailing. Natural ingredients were no longer fashionable. Cocktails had to taste like everything, and flavored mixes became the thing. Enter the age and craze of the frozen daiquiri. Cane rum blended with ice and fruit-flavored corn syrup would spell “refreshment” in every language. The art of the cocktail was lost, and the pillars that had set the foundation for mixology were re-engineered and rendered unrecognizable. Of Embury’s Six Essential Cocktails, the daiquiri suffered the most from the 80’s effect. By definition, the daiquiri is a simple cocktail. Rum. Citrus. Sugar. Its roots trace back to nineteenth-century Cuba and a small mining town named — wait for it — Daiquiri.Workers suffering from yellow fever would consume the concoction for its health benefits. I’m not sure how that worked out for them, but in the wake of it all, a star was born. Decade over decade, it would gain popularity and go on to win the praises of high-society types such as Ernest Hemingway and JFK. Then came the 80’s and the bottom fell out. The daiquiri became synonymous with “foo foo,” and so the story goes. Well, it doesn’t have to be this way forever, my friends.Let’s bring the craft back to the “Daiq”. Let’s ditch the blenders, toss the corn syrup sour mix, and return the grandmother of all rum cocktails to her former glory.

Tomas Flint is a freelance photographer and barkeep at Nox Cocktails & Comfort Food in the Village Gate. 68

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

HOW YOU CAN PLAY YOUR PART IN DEBUNKING THE DAIQUIRI: Classic Daiquiri 2oz white rum 1oz lime 1 tsp sugar • Shake vigorously with ice and strain into a coupe or rocks glass.Lime garnish. Serve up. Hemingway Daiquiri 2 oz. white rum ¾ oz. lime ½ oz. Grapefruit ½ oz. Maraschino Liqueur • Shake vigorously with ice and strain into a coupe or martini glass. Cherry garnish. Serve up. Peach Blackberry Basil Daiquiri 2 oz. fresh peach puree 1 ½ oz. white rum 1 oz. lime 1 tsp. sugar 4 fresh blackberries 1 basil leaf • Muddle blackberries, basil, and sugar and lime in a cocktail shaker. • Add peach puree and rum. • Shake vigorously and pour into a Collins glass or mason jar filled with ice. • Serve on the rocks, lime and/ or blackberry garnish.

Photo by Tomas Flint

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Dining guide in view of guests’ tables. By reservation only, on the hour from 5 to 9 p.m. D: W–Sa     $$$

Tapas 177

Lento

A swank downtown hangout with creative cocktails and a menu that melds together international cuisines. Curry empanadas, Maui chicken and egg rolls, or a watermelon shrimp are designed to surprise and delight. “Tapas” dining is a small-plate tradition from Spain, so it’s best to come with a small group of friends and share several selections around the table. D: Daily I   $$

274 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate), 271-3470, lentorestaurant.com

Lento has a three-tiered goal for its menu items: local, seasonal, and sustainable. Owner/chef Arthur Rogers, a 2015 James Beard Award nominee, works with more than twenty local farmers to supply the kitchen with fresh ingredients year-round, which means the menu constantly changes. The craft cocktails are also made from juices, homemade mixers, and seasonal fruit from local farms. On Thursdays, cocktails are just $5. D: Tu– Sa  I   $$$

Max of Eastman Place

25 Gibbs St., Rochester (Downtown), 697-0491, maxrochester.net

The jewel in the crown of Max-branded Rochester restaurants, located near the Eastman School of Music. Start with handcut beef tartare or truffled crab melt and then move on to roasted lamb or a perfectly grilled, aged New York strip steak. Think Max’s before a night at the symphony or an upscale retreat from the bustle of the jazz festival. L: M–F; D: M–Sa     $$$

Phillips European

26 Corporate Woods, Rochester (Henrietta), 272-9910, phillipseuropean.com

Touted as European-style café dining, Phillips has a rich lunch and dinner selection ranging from pastas to daily homemade quiches and soups. The restaurant’s quiet atmosphere and lavish dessert fare make Phillips one of Henrietta’s best-kept secrets. Don’t forget the after-dinner drinks; Phillips stocks everything from cordials to coffee liqueurs. L&D: M–Sa     $$

Portico by Fabio Viviani

1133 State Rte. 414, Waterloo, 315-946-1777, dellgoresort.com/dining/porticobyfabioviviani

Nestled within the del Lago Resort and Casino just north of Thruway exit 41, Portico mixes traditional Italian cooking with steakhouse-style seafood and meats. L: Su, Th–Sa; D: Daily    G  $$$

The Rabbit Room Restaurant 61 N. Main St., Honeoye Falls, 582-1830, thelowermill.com

Excellent soups and sandwiches using local ingredients in the first floor of a nineteenth-century mill. Thursday night dinner features a $42 prix fixe tasting experience. Upstairs is a local artisan shop, gallery space, and studios for local artists. L: Th–Sa; L&D: Th  I     $$

The Revelry

1290 University Ave., Rochester (NOTA), 340-6454, therevelryroc.com

Since it opened in 2013, the Revelry has generated consistent buzz with artisanal cocktails and Lowcountry cuisine. The Revelry team channels Southern hospitality and redefines comfort food with dishes like fried green tomatoes, pimento cheese and biscuits, and “Chicken & Fixins” dinners on Wednesdays. D: T–Su; Br: Su; Closed: M  I     $$$

Rooney’s Restaurant

90 Henrietta St., Rochester (Swillburg), 442-0444, rooneysrestaurant.com

The historical building and European influence surrounding Rooney’s Restaurant repeatedly places it at the top of romantic dinner destinations in the area. Inside, the rich paneling, fireplace, and scarlet linens lend a Victorian charm. The staff is highly trained and professional, treating every guest like royalty. The house chefs assemble a new dinner menu each night, building specialty dishes from lamb, beef, duck, and seafood found at local markets each morning. D: M– Sa    $$$

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

177 St. Paul St., Rochester (Downtown), 262-2090, tapas177.com

Tony D’s

288 Exchange Blvd., Rochester (Corn Hill Landing), 340-6200, tonydsroc.com

It’s back! Tony D’s will take your wood fire oven and raise you a coal fire oven. A cooking temperature near a thousand degrees means crispier surfaces and more tender centers, and this goes for the wings, the ribs, and the pizzas. The pizza crust is thin and topped with combinations of Italian traditional vegetables and cured meats. You can also design your own. L&D: M–F; D: Sa–Su  I     $$

Native

180 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester, 351-6121, nativerochester.com

This local restaurant strives to “support our friends’ and neighbors’ small businesses” by locally sourcing their produce. Native’s upscale, wide-open space offers New-Age American cuisine and can’t-miss handcrafted cocktails for “social hour.” Hours are evolving; call or check website.  I    $$

The Yard of Ale

3226 Genesee St., Piffard (near Geneseo), 243-3380, theyardofale.com

Family-owned fine dining in an early-nineteenthcentury Genesee Valley Canal inn. The menu is standard Italian-influenced Rochester fare, but the execution is top-notch and evening specials aim to impress. Adjacent tavern keeps wings and beer rolling late into the night. D: Tu–Su  I    G  $$

ITALIAN

ingredients. In addition to in-house dining and takeouts, they also offer catering and semiprivate dining for events. D: Daily. L: M–Sa  I     G $$

Branca 683 Pittsford-Victor Rd., Bushnell’s Basin, 310-7415, brancabasin.com

Branca’s hospitality is top-notch. It’s a place where people feel comfortable eating solo at the bar—and rarely leave before making a friend. The house-cured charcuterie is exceptional, the burrata divine, and your four-year-old will actually eat the quattro formaggio pizza (though adults may prefer the tartufata). Perfect for date night, family dinner, lunch with a friend, or grabbing a drink after work. D: Daily; L: M–F; Br: Su   I    $$

Branca Midtown 280 E. Broad St., Rochester, 434-5243, brancamidtown.com

Branca began as a cozy Bushnell’s Basin bistro with a convivial bar, an authentic charcuterie hanging behind glass, and a colorful tile wood oven shipped from Italy. Restauranteurs Josh and Jenna Miles have taken this formula downtown to capture the industrialist lunch crowd. This is the place to take out-of-town clients for lunch while bragging about Rochester’s amazing Italian scene. Cocktails have funny names and genius flavor combinations. Branca is a beachhead in our city’s downtown comeback. D: T–Sa; L: M–F     G $$$

Carl’s Pizza Kitchen 9 South Ave., Webster, 236-1819, carlspizzakitchen.com

Tucked into a small and cozy location perfect for a quick and easy dining option, where all food is homemade and fresh. Menu ranges from a wide variety of pizzas, wings, salads, subs, and sandwiches. There is also a dinner menu including entrées such as Veal and Eggplant Parmesan and Chicken French. L&D: T–Su   $

Amore

Fiamma Centro

Wegmans Supermarket’s East Avenue entry into the Italian dining sector offers respectable pizza, pasta, antipasti, sandwiches, salads, and charcuterie. As with all Wegmans restaurants, you may get inspired to visit the market next door to assemble ingredients to recreate your meal. L&D: M–Sa  I    G  $

For years, chef Giuseppe Pachiullo ran Fiamma in a nondescript Gates plaza serving pizzas and pasta taken directly from his native Naples. Now, he raises the Old Country charm by bringing his certifiedauthentic approach to the Neighborhood of the Arts. The dry ingredients come directly from southern Italy. The fresh stuff is sourced locally. The oven is fired to 1,000 degrees, making pizza crust bubble up and char in under a minute. Fold the pizza up and eat it like a taco if you don’t want to look like a tourist. D: T–Su   I    $$$

1750 East Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 452-8780, wegmansamore.com

Benji’s Pizza and Grill 1998 Empire Blvd., Rochester 446-0600, benjispizza.com

Pizza, burgers, wings, subs, and more, all within a classic, family-friendly environment. Do a pick up, dine in, or have it delivered. All food is proudly made with locally purchased ingredients. L&D: Daily    $

Benucci’s

3349 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Pittsford), 264-1300; Greece Ridge Center, Rochester, 227-3031, benuccis.com

A taste of old Sicily at Pittsford Plaza and now at the Mall at Greece Ridge. Nosh on bruschetta or traditional antipasti or choose from dozens of wood-fired pizzas, pastas, paninis, or entrées that include Benucci’s own piece of Rochester’s gourmet meatball trend. L&D: Daily  I     $$

Bocaccinis Italian Bistro & Bar

6720 Pittsford Palmyra Rd., Fairport, 421-8200, bocaccinis.com

This family-owned and -operated Italian bistro features traditional and contemporary Italian dishes; brick oven pizzas, paninis, and wraps, and fresh salads. All items are made in-house and to order, using fresh, local

4 Elton St., Rochester (NOTA), 471-8917, centro.fiammarochester.com

Fiorella 5 Rochester Public Market, 434-5705, restaurantfiorella.com

In the clean lines of a contemporary space at the Rochester Public Market, Chef Gino Ruggiero offers a menu of authentic Italian specialties, prepared primarily with locally sourced and organic ingredients. A short, well-curated list of inexpensive wines and draft beer complement the offerings. L&D: W–Sa   I    $$

Grappa 30 Celebration Dr., Rochester (College Town), 424-4404, grapparoc.com

“Italian Nouveau” means all the classics presented in a clean, fresh style that matches the décor, plus appealing extras like zesty parmesan wings, beet salad with pistachio-encrusted goat cheese, and the classic burger. It’s a hotel restaurant that doesn’t feel like one. B, L&D: Daily      $$

Taste | Dining guide Il Posto Bistro & Wine Bar 135 S. Main St., Canandaigua, 905-0535, ilpostobistroandwinebar.com Upscale bistro with pasta made on-site by their executive chef. An invigorating selection of wines from around the world to stimulate your palate. Traditional Italian dishes with some unexpected surprises as well, such as chicken tagine, grilled tournedos, and pei mussels. D: T–Sa     $$ Joey’s Pasta House

1789 Penfield Rd., Penfield, 586-2426, joeyspastahouse.com

Traditional Italian pasta lovingly prepared in an elegant small-town setting. Something to suit any taste, from the tagliatelle bolognese to simple spaghetti and meatballs. Entrées include chicken, veal, and seafood served along with house pastas and sauces. D: M–Sa; L: Tu–F      $$

La Luna

60 Browns Race, Rochester (High Falls), 232-5862, lalunahighfalls.com

Old World Italian dining overlooking the High Falls at Browns Race. Notables include Italian-style pulled pork for lunch and roasted beet salad and gnocchi bolognese for dinner. L: M–Th; D: Th–Sa  I    $$

Lemoncello Italian Restaurant & Bar

137 W. Commercial St., East Rochester, 385-8565, lemoncello137.com

open mind, order what your server suggests, and make a reservation a week in advance (the place is tiny). D: M–Sa; L: F  I    $$

Paulino’s

2003 Lyell Ave. Rochester, 458-3090, paulinositalianrestaurant.com

Jimmy Paulino is serving the kind of homey Italian fare that can’t go wrong at what was previously Roncone’s. The restaurant prides itself on being authentic and affordable, and the cozy atmosphere gives that classic Italian restaurant vibe. L: Tu–F; D: Tu–Sa     $$

s u n Joi

Pane Vino on the Avenue

3400 Monroe Ave., Pittsford, 586-7000, panevinoontheavenue.com

Recently opened sister location to the original Pane Vino. Features an expanded menu of traditional Italian cuisine. Two large banquet halls offer space for parties of 20–250. L: M–F; D: Daily     $$

Pane Vino on the River

175 N. Water St., Rochester (Downtown), 232-6090, panevinoontheriver175.com

Posh Italian place with a view of the river and skyscrapers downtown. Wide variety of traditional

HOT OFF THE PRESS

Aside from serving a wide range of authentic Italian dishes like caprese salad, calamari fritti, and homemade arancini, Lemoncello’s kitchen is lead by East Rochester native Nick LaPietra. Both the owners and chef have Italian heritage, ensuring the ambiance and menu are like stepping into Rome or Venice for a few hours. Live mood music most weekends. D: Daily  I     G $$$

Lucca Kitchen and Cocktails 425 Merchants Rd, Rochester, 448-0061, luccakitchen.com

Fresh flowers on every table, authentic Italian cuisine, and a memorable interior are just a few of the things you can expect at this neighborhood joint. Signature drinks are broken down by the main alcohol component, and food is served in respectable portions at this modern and cozy restaurant. L&D: Tu–Sa; Br: Su  I    $$

TUESDAY

March 3, 2020

5:30 - 7:30

20 CARLSON ROAD ROCHESTER, NY 14610

Napa Wood Fired Pizza

687 Moseley Rd., Fairport (Perinton Hills), 223-5250; 573 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 232-8558; 1900 Empire Blvd., Webster, 347-4540; napawoodfired.com

Start with stuffed banana peppers or a pear and gorgonzola salad but save room for the main event. Pizzas are prepared neapolitan-style and cooked in an intensely hot oven. Selection is mostly Italian with fusion picks like cubano and greek. Locations in the South Wedge, Perinton Hills, and Baytowne Plaza. L&D: Daily  I     $$

Rella

181 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 454-3510

There’s no website. There’s no Facebook page. There are no reservations or even tables. But there are seats at the bar, fifteen to be exact, and there’s all kinds of cred—this is Mark Cupolo’s downthe-street sister restaurant to the beloved Rocco, with “a focus on fresh seafood and small plates.” (There is an Instagram.) D: M, W–Sa   $$

ENJOY complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials MINGLE with 585 staff, writers, and the fascinating people featured in the new issue. PICK UP a free issue of the new 585.

Rocco

165 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 454-3510, roccorochester.com

From the signature bellini to the unparalleled butterscotch budino, Rocco delivers a front-to-back excellent and authentic Italian dining experience. Go with an

No reservations necessary. For questions, call (585) 413-0040

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Dining guide

Getting crafty

Yelp’s comprehensive craft beverage directory By Megan Colombo

MICROBREWERIES Swiftwater Brewing swiftwaterbrewing.com, 530-3472 378 Mount Hope Ave., Rochester Three Heads Brewing threeheadsbrewing.com, 244-1224 186 Atlantic Ave., Rochester Knucklehead Craft Brewing knuckleheadcraftbrewing.com, 347-6236 426 Ridge Rd. , Webster Seven Story Brewing sevenstorybrewing.com, 330-5027 604 Pittsford Victor Rd. ,Pittsford Rohrbach Beer Hall rohrbachs.com, 546-8020 97 Railroad St. Rochester 3859 Buffalo Rd. ,Gates Iron Tug Brewing irontugbrewing.com, 865-0032 360 W. Ridge Rd., Rochester The Lost Borough Brewing lostboroughbrewing.com, (471)8122543 Atlantic Ave., Rochester

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Scan this QR code on your phone’s camera for a digital listing.

Irondequoit Beer Company irondequoitbeercompany.com, 544-3670 765 Titus Ave., Rochester

Sager Beer Works sagerbeerworks.com, 417-5404 46 Sager Dr., Rochester

Roc Brewing rocbrewingco.com, 794-9798 56 S Union St., Rochester

Fifth Frame Brewing fifthframe.co, 735-7155 155 St Paul St., Rochester

K2 Brothers Brewing k2brewing.com, 413-1997 1221 Empire Blvd., Rochester

Lock 32 Brewing Company lock32brew.com, 500-8844 10 Schoen Pl., Pittsford

Griffs Brewery griffsbrewery.com, 617-3843 5324 W Ridge Rd., Rochester

Triphammer Bierworks triphammerbierwroks.com, 388-8281 111 Parce Ave., Fairport

Fairport Brewing Company fairportbrewing.com, 481-2237 1044 University Ave., Rochester 99 S Main St.,Fairport

Wood Kettle Brewing woodkettlebrewing.com, 366-4183 1192 Manitou Rd., Hilton

New York Beer Project beerproject.com 300 High St.,Victor WhichCraft Brews whichcraftbrews.com, 222-2739 1900 Empire Blvd., Webster Nine Maidens Brewery ninemaidensbrewing.com, 434-3030 1344 University Ave., Rochester

Brindle Haus brindlehausbrweing.com, 488-2034 377 S. Union St. Spencerport Twisted Rail Brewing Co twistedrailbrewing.com, 364-3416 108 Main St., Macedon 169 Lakeshore Dr., Canandaigua

Photoss submitted

In case you haven’t noticed, Rochester is bubbling up as a top craft beverage destination at the national level. It’s not hard to see why: there are more than twenty-two craft microbreweries alongside an evergrowing list of cideries, distilleries, and wineries in the Monroe County footprint alone. Not sure where to start? Look no further as Yelp Rochester community manager Megan Colombo rounds up your many options.

Taste | Dining guide

FINE ITALIAN DINING BEAUTIFUL OUTDOOR PATIO • OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK •

PANE VINO ON THE AVENUE 3400 MONROE AVENUE ROCHESTER, NY 14618 PANE VINO ON THE RIVER 175 N WATER STREET ROCHESTER, NY 14604

585.586.7000

MICROWINERIES

MICROCIDERIES

Living Roots Wine livingrootswine.com, 383-1112 1255 University Ave., Rochester

Blue Toad Hard Cider bluetoadhardcider.com, 424-5508 120 Mushroom Blvd., Rochester

Casa Larga Vineyard casalarga.com, 223-4210 2287 Turk Hill Rd., Fairport

Seed + Stone Cidery seedandstonecidery.com, 340-7310 1115 E. Main St., Rochester

A Gust of Sun Winery agustofsun.com, 617-3000 5324 W Ridge Rd., Spencerport

Oak and Apple Cidery oakandapple.com, 364-3348 1600 Dublin Rd., Penfield

Five Sons Winery rgbrewery.com, 391-3569 1360 W Sweden Rd., Brockport

Blue Barn Cidery bluebarncidery.com, 366-7358 928 Manitou Rd., Hilton

JD Wine Cellars jdwinecellars.com, 315-986-4202 1342 Eddy Rd., Macedon

MICRODISTILLERIES

Agness Wine Cellars agnesswinecellars.com, 315-576-0375 453 State St., Rochester

Black Button Distillery blackbuttondistilling.com, 730-4512 85 Railroad St., Rochester Iron Smoke Distillery ironsmokedistillery.com, 388-7584 111 Parce Ave., Fairport. Honeoye Falls Distillery honeoyefallsdistillery.com, 624-1700 168 W. Main St., Honeoye Falls

AWARDED OVERALL EXCELLENCE AS A TOP 100 CHINESE RESTAURANT IN THE U.S.A.!

Dine in / Take out.

585-385-2808 FAX 585-385-2833

Open 7 days

MON-THURS 11:00 AM – 9:30 PM FRI & SAT 11:00 AM – 10:30 PM SUNDAY 11:30 AM – 9:30 PM 1802 PENFIELD RD. Behind Dunkin Donuts

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Dining guide pasta dishes along with steak, veal, pork chops, and seafood. L: M–F; D: Daily     $$

country, its food, and especially mezcal, as the bar menu illustrates. Fun tacos, the salsa flight, and superb cocktails are fan favorites. L: F; D: M–Sa; Br: Sa  I    $$

Polizzi’s

274 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate) 363-5100, polizzis.com

Casual fine dining of Mediterranean style, from Spain to Greece. Entrées include a Middle-Eastern moussaka, an Italian minulotti, and many others to provide a full survey of Mediterranean cooking. There is also an extensive bar food menu consisting of Mediterranean pizzas, soups, and many other options. D: M–Sa     G $$

Proietti’s

980 Ridge Road E., Webster, 872-2330, proiettis.com

Prioetti’s stated goal is to serve italian cuisine that rivals that of any big American city. The menu is a mix of traditional Rochester dishes and surprises, like chicken riggies, which hails from Utica. A fall favorite is homemade butternut squash ravioli with creamy marinara sauce. Don’t pass on the cannoli for dessert. D: Tu–Su      $$

Questa Lasagna

55 Main St., Mount Morris, 658-3761, questalasagna.com

This early player in the renaissance of Mount Morris has staying power for a reason. There are delicious Italian pastries and cookies in the display case, as well as lovely salads, antipasti, and panini. The lasagna is made from scratch using an imported Italian-made machine proudly on display. There are varieties made from meat, cheese, and seafood, but save room for the chocolate dessert lasagna. L&D: Th–Tu; Closed: W     $

Lulu Taqueria

6 N. Main St., Fairport, 377-0410, luluroc.com

Mexican cantina situated on the edge of the Erie Canal. Features traditional dishes with some unusual offerings such as a smoked swordfish taco or cauliflower taco as a vegetarian option. Enjoy one of many imported wines while sitting on the patio. L&D: Tu–Sa  I   $

Mesquite Grill 910 Elmgrove Rd., Rochester 363-5826, mesquitemexgrill.com

This family-friendly, picturesque restaurant brings Mexican culture and cuisine to Rochester through authentic favorites such as carnitas, chiles poblanos, pollo asado, and many others. There is also a wide selection of dishes such as tacos, burritos, and quesedillas. L&D: Daily    $

Mi Barrio Burrito Place 319 Exchange Blvd., Rochester, 271-3655, facebook.com/mibarrioburritoplace Missing Paola’s Burrito Place? You’re in luck. The owners have brought the same fresh, authentic Mexican flavor to Rochester under a different name and at a new location. L&D: Daily   $ Monte Alban Mexican Grill

Ristorante Lucano

The place to go for authentic Italian cuisine. Here, old country recipes have built a strong following for this family-owned restaurant.The menu features traditional southern Italian pasta dishes as well as grilled lamb, beef, and seafood. D: Tu–Sa     $$

Solid, family-friendly Mexican restaurant where the extensive menu will take longer to digest than the meal. The seafood choices are surprisingly good, reminiscent of a seaside grill along the Baja California. The steaks are flavorful and value priced. Locations in Irondequoit, Webster, and Penfield. L&D: Daily      $

Veneto Gourmet Pizza and Pasta

Neno’s Gourmet Mexican Street Food 649 Monroe Ave., Rochester, 434-0026, nenosmexican.com

Veneto led the trend of woodfired pizzerias back in 2001 and is still a hot destination for thin crust pizzas with those crucial char marks on the bottom. Choose from six traditional varieties or build your own or opt for pasta, a salad, or a tempting daily special. L: W–Th; D: Tu–Su  I    $$

A delightful addition to Rochester’s Mexican cuisine scene (which (585)’s Nick Abreu says is in “a golden age of tacos”) Neno’s originally operated as a much-loved food truck until it opened its colorful, modest establishment. There is an emphasis on braised beef tacos, bursting with flavor and piled high with ingredients. L&D: Tu–Su   G $

318 East Ave., Rochester (East End), 454-5444, venetorestaurant.com

Vern’s

690 Park Ave., Rochester, 340-6689, iloveverns.com

This über modern take on classic Italian dining is anything but ordinary. The bar offers everything from classic and original alcoholic and nonalcoholic cocktails to locally sourced meals designed to be shared. The cozy eatery on Park Ave. offers yet another unique dining experience to Rochestarians. D: Daily  I    $$

VOLO

90 S. Clinton Ave., Rochester, 598-6601, voloroc.com

Café Sol/Skyway has been reincarnated as VOLO, a casual Italian eatery located in the Center City district. The restaurant specializes in Neapolitan pizzas and “food on the fly,” as well as offering multiple veganfriendly options. L: M–F; D: M–Sa  I    $$

MEXICAN Bitter Honey

127 Railroad St., Rochester (Marketview Heights), 270-4202, bitterhoneyroc.com

This long-awaited Mexican joint is adding heat to an already sizzling dining scene at the Rochester Public Market. Co-owner Zack Mikida is passionate about the

Salena’s Mexican Restaurant

845 E. Ridge Rd., Irondequoit; 2160 Penfield Rd., Penfield; 2245 Empire Blvd., Webster, 697-0615, montealbangrill.com

1815 East Ave., Rochester (Brightondale), 244-3460, ristorantelucano.com

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

the best in the region, with dozens of choices and three sampler flights. Open: L&D: Tu–Su      $$

Ox and Stone

282 Alexander St., Rochester (East End), 287-6933, oxandstone.com

Latin kitchen, cocktail parlor, and social house serving tapas, paella, and house-made tortillas in a fun and lively atmosphere. Live music, taco Tuesdays and tapas Wednesdays, late-night snacks, and rotating draft beers. D: M–Sa; L: F–M; Br: Sa–Su  I     $$ Old Pueblo Grill 55 Russell St., Rochester (Neighborhood of the Arts), 730-8057, oldpueblogrillroc.com

Southwest-inspired Latin cuisine specializing in tacos, tortas, and burritos. Features a lively atmosphere reminiscent of the Tucson area, where executive chef Joe Zolnierowski IV (of Nosh fame) spent two decades working in some of the city’s best bars and restaurants. L&D: M–Sa  I    $

Rio Tomatlan

106 Bemis St., Canandaigua, 394-9380, riotomatlan.com

This regional favorite reopened in a new location after a fire destroyed the previous spot. Locally sourced tomatillos are used in many of the Pacific Coast–inspired entrées, along with delicious queso Oaxaca. The tequila bar is

302 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate), 256-5980, salenas.com

Mexican staples are available at one of Village Gate’s original anchors, but the menu also goes off on flights of fancy like Dos Equis–braised chicken wings and poblano cream pork medallions. L&D: Tu–Sa; D: Su  I    G  $$

The Silver Iguana

663 Winton Rd. N., Rochester (Browncroft), 270-4723, silveriguanacantina.com

Mexican-inspired cantina with a modern atmosphere, specialzing in tacos and tequila. A range of meat and vegetarian options is available. The submarine cocktails add a unique flair with choices like the Dark and Stormy and the El Diablo. D: Daily; Brunch: Sa–Su I   G  $

REGIONAL 110 Grill

780 Jefferson Rd. Henrietta, 340-6030, 110grill.com

The nation-wide restaurant has set up shop in Rochester, catering specially to gluten-free patrons. The modern American menu is almost completely glutenfree or can be modified to be, with all staff trained for allergen awareness. L&D: Daily     G $$

Abundance Food Co-Op

571 South Ave., Rochester (South Wedge), 454-2667, abundance.coop

This grocery co-op features a deli serving up fresh sandwiches, wraps, soups, and salads and a hot bar with eclectic international cuisine. Open Daily   

The Beer Hall Grill and Taps

1517 Empire Blvd., Webster, 434-0026, thebeerhallroc.com Enjoy a relaxed night out with the family while savoring a wide selection of unique brews. The menu provides many options ranging from “Brewers’s Cobb Salad” and grain bowls to the “Smoked Meat Sammy.” There’s live music on the patio during the warmer months. L&D: M–Su   G I $

Blades BBL

1290 University Ave., Rochester, 266-5000, bladesbbl.com

This “BBL” joint features an open kitchen design and all-day breakfast, brunch, and lunch menus. Propped up where the former Huther Brothers saw manufacturing facility once stood, the menu blends traditional classics with modern choices. There are plenty of options for vegetarians and those with food sensitivities and fun mimosa selections. Open daily  I   G  $

Blades Bar and Grill

1290 University Ave, Rochester, 271-5000, bladesroc.com

The recently renovated Blades, formerly Pomodoro (and before that, also Blades) offers classic, no-fail AmericanItalian cuisine. Beautiful decor and an unexpected, large, and lush patio out back make this locale ideal for special events. D: Daily  I    $$

Boxcar Donuts & Fried Chicken 127 Railroad St., Rochester 270-5942, eatatboxcar.com

Exciting menu with combos of things like donuts, fried chicken, and waffles. Pair it with a coffee or a cocktail to make this the perfect quick and easy comfort food eatery. The bar includes sixteen draft beers and twelve different cocktails. B, L&D: T–Su    G $

Chortke House of Kebab

352 N. Goodman St., Rochester 498-1216

Taste | Dining guide A sleek modern design paired with very traditional cooking brings Rochesterians a rare look into Persian dining. A mom-and-pop, locally owned restaurant offering a unique Persian taste. L&D: Tu–Sa    G $

Clutch Kitchen + Sports Bar

3208 Latta Rd., Greece, 270-4350, clutchkitchen.com

Love sports but hate the Budweiser and chili fries? Clutch takes the time-worn tradition of Sunday afternoon quarterbacking and raises the game. You’ll see the same bank of flatscreen TVs at dozens of other sports bars around town and an artfully arranged wall of sports memorabila. On your plate will be inspired gourmet recreations of your favorite bar food. Tuck into a burrata caprese salad along with your choice of seventy beers. D: Daily; Br: Su   I    $$

The Daily Refresher

293 Alexander St., Rochester (East End), 360-4627, thedailyrefresher.com

There’s Ernest Hemingway, bloody mary in hand, finishing up an extra about the Greco-Turkish War in 1921. It’s easy to imagine a young “Papa” among the subdued lighting and tufted antique chairs of this pub inspired by the Golden Age of Newspapers. Toasted sandwiches are named after famous broadsheets, and cocktails are what those fast-talking reporters tossed back between deadlines. D: Tu–Su  I     $$

Dogtown Hots

691 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Lower Monroe), 271-6620, dogtownhots.com

Dogtown dishes out a menu of international hot dog specials using indigenous main ingredients: Zweigle’s red and white hots and french rolls from local bakery Martusciello’s. Roam the culinary globe with menu fixers ranging from the Cincinnati Red Dog (chili cheese dog, real cheddar, and Dogtown’s meat sauce) to the Greek Stray (tzatziki, tomatoes, onions, kalamata olives, and pepperoncini topped with feta cheese). The menu also offers meatless options, a kids’ meal, and plates. Dog-loving guests from near and far donate photos of their pets to decorate the tiny dining room’s walls. L&D: M–Sa      $$

Gate House Café

274 N. Goodman St., Rochester (Village Gate Square), 473-2090, thegatehousecafe.com

The burgers rank among the best in the city; they’re named after local celebrities past and present, such as Frederick Douglass, Susan B. Anthony, Lou Gramm, Garth Fagan, and Kristen Wiig. The pizzas are thin neopolitan style, cooked in a wood fire oven. Dinner is informal, with apps that can be upsized to entrées. L&D: Daily      $$

Genesee Brew House

25 Cataract St., Rochester (High Falls), 263-9200, geneseebeer.com/brew-house

Great views of the High Falls and downtown from a twostory pub and rooftop patio at the historic Genesee Brewing Company. Pub fare features a few German selections. The bavarian pretzels and sausage platter, served with mustard, pair well with Genesee’s beers. Hourly brewery tours and tasting room on-site. L&D: Daily  I     $

The Hideaway

197 Park Ave., Rochester (Park Ave.) 434-0511, hoganshideaway.com

Hogan’s is back—though it’s changed through new ownership and seems headed in a different direction (including a name alteration that hasn’t quite stuck yet). The layout, for starters, isn’t what you’ll remember—it’s now “farm implement chic,” reflective of its more farm-to-table menu. The food is solidly tasty, and the beverage menu is presented as a fun matrix (“gin” plus “classics” will lead you to “Negroni”). Notable items are smoky tomato bolognese, pork carnitas, and rotating seasonal salads. L&D: Daily      $$

Hole in the Wall Restaurant

7056 Standpipe Rd., Perry, 237-3003, holeinthewallperry.com

This family-owned and operated spot overlooking Silver Lake has been around in some iteration for more than seventy years. The free meals for active servicemen in uniform still remains along with homemade Sunday dinners. Under Chef Travis Barlow, there’s new flavor and flair reflected in things like the Farmers Market 3 Course Menu. L&D: W–Su      $

Irondequoit Beer Company

765 Titus Ave. Rochester, 544-3670, irondequoitbeercompany.com

What was an age-old barn has been transformed to give Irondequoit its first brewery. Ten brewer-selected beers on tap combined with an even more extensive alcohol list and creative bar fixings to make this a new classic. L: Th–Su; D: W–Sa      $$

JJ’s Pub

669 Winton Rd. N. Rochester, 270-5991, facebook.com/JJsPub669/

The latest Rochester pub addition is the ideal spot for a night out with friends. Located in the old Mayfield’s on Winton Road, the pub offers frequent tastings and karaoke, as well as special guest singers. L: Sa–Su; D: Daily  I    $$

Jetty at the Port

1000 N. River St., Rochester, 621-2000, jettyattheport.com

Overlooking the Genesee River and Lake Ontario with great waterfront views. An array of seafood is offered from clams casino to shrimp étouffé. Try a Seafood Boil Bucket, with more than a pound of steamed seafood and your choice of sauce. L: F–Sa; D: Tu–Sa; Br: Su  I    $

Locals Only

311 Alexander St., Rochester (East End), 537-7566, localsonly311.com

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, and coffee. Features a wide selection of regional foods from Rochester to New York City. Signature cocktails are served all day long with prosecco on tap. Unique espresso drinks round out the menu and provide some flair for your meal. D: M–Sa; Br: Daily  I     $$

Magnolia’s Deli and Café

366 Park Ave., Rochester (Park Ave.), 271-7380, magnoliascafe.com

A cheery lunch spot with sandwiches named after neighborhood streets. “The Park Avenue,” for example, is turkey, hot corned beef, hot pastrami, swiss cheese, coleslaw, and russian dressing on rye bread. Order hot tea and receive a brightly colored mini teapot and bottle of honey. L&D: M–Sa; Br: Su  I    $$

Mi Viejo San Juan at Nortons Pub 1730 Goodman St. N. Rochester 544-9220, mi-viejo-san-juan-atnortons-pub.business.site

The latest addition to North Goodman Street is part Puerto Rican restaurant and part American pub. The menu boasts rellenos de papas and carne frita next to pizza logs and a hangover burger, embracing the two eatery styles with flair. L: Su; D: W–Su     $$

Next Door by Wegmans

3220 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 249-4575, wegmansnextdoor.com

Next Door gives you a chance to try the finest fresh seasonal ingredients that Wegmans carries, prepared in a manner that’s delicious and healthy. Whenever possible, they choose ingredients that are organic and from the region. Popular menu items include truffle mac ’n’ cheese, sushi rolls, and the Next Door Bolognese. L&D: M–Sa  

   $$

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Taste | Dining guide Nosh 47 Russel St. (NOTA), 445-8700, noshroc.com

Tucked down a side street off University, Nosh is a giant, airy place remodeled in the industrial-space-meetsreclaimed-barn-wood genre. There’s nothing run-of-themill about the food here, though. The menu is eclectic and ambitious, and it totally works. Craft cocktails, a good wine list, and tempting desserts round out the experience. D: Tu–Sa; Br: Su  I    G  $$$

3001 Monroe Ave., Pittsford 348-9103, speakeasybymonroes.com

New Ethic Pizzeria & Cafe

Black tufted chairs with brass buttons recall the days of secret red-light bars during Prohibition. The waiters wear suspenders; the waitresses don pearls. The cocktails are named after guys with tommy guns and also Alcatraz, their eventual home. The food is elevated appetizers with a decent spread of Italian choices, though one doubts Al Capone would have appreciated a decent tuna niçoise. D: F–Sa; Su–Th: private events only   I   $$

545 Titus Ave. Suite 519596, Rochester, 623-8231, newethicpizza.com

St. Paul Proper

A completely vegan pizzeria that offers buffalo chickpea pizza, eleven different wing sauces, and Beyond Burger garbage plates? New Ethic is the first of its kind around Rochester and offers up the exact niche that the area was craving. D: W–Sa     G $

Original Grain 280 E. Broad St., Rochester, 270-4844, originalgrainsters.com

Feel-good food that’s also good for the body is the specialty at the latest healthy hotspot. With everything from vegan-friendly and gluten-free options to the Lox On Lox On Lox (as fun to say as it is to eat!), expect to add this to your cycle of smoothie stops. B, L&D: M–Sa  I    $$

The Original Steve’s Diner 1694 Penfield Rd., Penfield, 248-9996, theoriginalstevesdiner.com

This retro diner has been offering breakfast classics for local diners since 2002. Eggs any way you like, pancakes as huge as they are affordable, and specialties that blur the line between breakfast and dessert all are mainstays here. B&L: Sa-Su     $

The Playhouse // Swillburger 820 Clinton Ave. S., Rochester (Swillburg) 442-2442, theplayhouseroc.com

If you love the Owl House, prepare to be pleasantly confused by its South Wedge sibling. This “barcade” has something for everyone: classic video games and pinball machines, juicy burgers (beef and veggie) and crispy fries, milkshakes with Eat Me ice cream, and a full bar featuring an impressive, rotating draught list—all in a chic, modern setting. L&D: Daily   $

PopRoc 337 East Ave., Rochester, 310-2423, poprochester.com

Comics. Caffeine. Culture...Rochester’s first and only cereal and caffeine bar. The bar features local coffee roasters such as Fifth Frame and Canaltown. Aside from being a restaurant it is also a full-size comic shop. Sip on your coffee while browsing through the shop’s library of comics or grab a bowl of cereal while watching a movie on one of many television screens. L: Daily; D: M–Sa   $

Rebel Pi 2496 W .Ridge Rd. Rochester, 360-2630, rebel-pi.com

On the mission to fight back against “boring, uninspired” pizza, Rebel Pi offers global selections and create-yourown options that keep to its promise. Mediterranean, Thai, Italian, and Rochestarian all find a home within the menu. L&D: Daily      G $

Silk District Pub 280 Exchange Blvd., Rochester, 730-4985, silkdistrictpub.com

Named after the Silk Stocking District, now known as Corn Hill, this pub strives to mix classic favorites with creative new dishes. There are several shared plates, entrées, and hand-helds to choose from, all at refreshingly reasonable prices. Bonus: that stunning view of the Freddie-Sue bridge. L&D: Daily  I  $$

Speakeasy at Monroe’s

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

187 St Paul St, Rochester, 319-5939, facebook.com/St-Paul-Proper

Upscale bar food mixed with a cozy eating atmosphere located in St. Paul Quarter. Stays true to the classic bar scene with live sports and pub games but keeps it modern with its fresh vegan menu. L: Sa-Su; D: Daily    $$

Superfly DMC

2157 Penfield Rd. Penfield, 678-9973, superflydmc.com

With sandwiches as dramatic the eponymous movie, this sandwich shop has made its own name for itself. The menu is small, but each item is calculated down to the relish. “American melting pot,” fast-casual. Located next to Wegmans, it’s ideal for lunch stop-ins. L&D: Tu–Sa      G $

Swan Dive 289 Alexander St., Rochester 413-53306, swandiveroc.com

This modern-style restaurant blends a comfy and casual dining atmosphere with high-end Italian cooking. The menu of classics like pizza and pasta contrasts well with casual bar snacks of homemade chicken nuggets and mozzarella sticks. The bar follows a similar pattern, having unique cocktails and fine wines along with canned beers and spirits. D: W–M    G $$

Trio

Black and Blue Steak and Crab 3349 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Pittsford), 421-8111, blackandbluesteakandcrab.com

Serious seafood menu plus beef in various incarnations. Home of the kobe meatball and a twenty-one-ounce cowboy ribeye. The centerpiece is a two-story wine bar with dozens of selections. Be sure to ask for food-pairing suggestions. L&D: M–F; D: Daily     $$$

Char at Strathallan 550 East Ave., Rochester (East End), 241-7100, charsteakandlounge.com

The steakhouse at the Strathallan boutique hotel raises the local bar on red meat with over-the-top presentation of steaks, veal, and lamb. Don’t pass on starters like the beef tartare—and save room for the amazing desserts. Char’s also becoming a hot spot for lunch, Sunday brunch, and get-togethers over handcrafted cocktails. B, L&D: Daily     G  $$$

LaSalle’s Steak and Crab 1500 Empire Blvd., Penfield (Irondequoit Bay), 482-5740, lasallessteakandcrab.com

Solid steak and shellfish spot with a waterside patio. D: Daily (Light menu Sunday)  I     $$

Nick’s Chophouse 5 Beeman St., Canandaigua, 393-0303, nickschophouseandbar.com

As our reviewer put it, “Sometimes you just want a decent steak.” Nick’s does steak—very well—and all of the things one would expect a steakhouse to do. There is big giant shrimp cocktail, flash-fried calamari (rolled in spicy blue cornmeal, as a twist), creamed spinach, and crème brûlée. The martinis are, of course, excellent— and imaginative. The wine list balances offerings under $30 with some over $100, with a nice selection in between. And it’s all housed in a friendly, cozy space right on the main drag. D: M–Sa    $$

3423 Winton Pl., Rochester, 272-1551, trioddd.com

Max Chophouse Wine & Martini Bar

This upscale yet casual restaurant is perfect for small business meetings, a private party, or even a family dinner. The food is fresh picked and locally sourced whenever possible. Enjoy music, both inside and on the outside patio, played by a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights. D: Tu–Sa  I  G   $$

1456 Monroe Ave., Rochester (Brighton), 271-3510, maxrochesterny.com

An old-school approach to running a steakhouse, Max’s offers a lively bar atmosphere, a simple, familiar menu, and really, really good steaks. Casual yet attentive service invites you to let your hair down, while the quality of the food—much of it locally sourced—invites you to indulge. D: Tu–Su     $$$

Union Tavern

4565 Culver Rd., Rochester (Seabreeze), 563-7304, uniontavernseabreeze.com

Whether you’re looking for authentic coastal seafood or some classic pub dishes, Union Tavern offers a wide variety of hearty options and fun cocktails. Have a grand time in the comfortable downstairs bar and dining area or a date night or party in the vibrant upstairs dining room. L&D: Tu–Su  I    $ $

Windjammers

4695 Lake Ave., Rochester (Downtown), 663-9691, windjammersbarandgrill.com

Pub-like menu with an appreciation for fine dining. Find all of your classic sports bar favorites as well as an extensive selection of wings and locally made rubs and sauces. L&D: Daily  I   $

STEAKHOUSE

Alex’s Place Restaurant

8322 Park Rd., Batavia, 344-2999, alexsribs.com

Family restaurant featuring ribs, prime rib, steaks, sandwiches, burgers, and pasta near the I-90 exit in Batavia. A welcome alternative to chain restaurant dining along the Thruway. L&D: Daily      $$

Tillman’s Historic Village Inn 14369 Ridge Rd., Albion, 589-9151, tillmansvillageinn.com

Though popular for parties and brunch, Tillman’s is best known for its prime rib. There are plenty of menu items to choose from, though, from soups and apps to all manner of fish, chicken, pasta...you name it. If you do go for the beef, sauce it up with one of thirteen different “tastes,” from béarnaise to Montreal to lobster cream. L&D: Daily except winter Mondays, Br: Su     $$

Tournedos Steakhouse 26 Broadway, Rochester (Downtown), 232-3595, innonbroadway.com

A top-shelf steakhouse in the glitzy downtown Inn on Broadway. Start with the Italian-inspired appetizers and then move on to the main show. The beef is dry aged, which tenderizes the cut and concentrates flavor. While you’re probably here for the beef, you’ll also be tempted by the wild Tasmanian salmon or the Hawaiian Big Eye ahi tuna. The wine list seems nearly endless. L: M–F; D: Daily   $$$

Index of advertisers To become a (585) advertiser, call 413-0040 Arcade & Attica Railroad (585)492-3100, www.arcadeandatticarr.com .................. 49 AXOM Home (585)232-6030, www.axomhome.com ........................... 29 Bird of Paradise Productions ............................................................ 56 Blades (585)266-5000, www.bladesbbl.com ............................. 75 Canandaigua National Bank (585)394-4260, www.cnbank.com ................................. 28 Corning Museum of Glass (800)732-6845, www.cmog.org ..................................... 49 Cottages at Troutburg c/o Midlakes Management (585)473-8410, www.thecottagesattroutburg.com .......... 22 Cricket on the Hearth (585)385-2420, www.cricketonthehearth.com ................ 22 Diane Prince Furniture & Gifts (585)388-0060, www.dianepricefurniture.com ............... 22 DL Home & Garden (585)225-4663 ............................................................ 22 Draper Center for Dance Education (585)461-2100, www.drapercenter.com ......................... 51 Eastview Mall (585)223-3693, www.eastviewmall.com .................. IFC,49 Fairport Baptist Homes (585)377-0350, www.fairportbaptisthomes.org .............. 56 Farmer’s Creekside Tavern & Inn (585)768-6007, www.farmerscreekside.com .................. 21 Ferris Hills at West Lake (585)393-0410 .................................... 54 Free Style Mercantile (585)294-3035 .................................... 21 Geva Theatre Center (585)232-1366, www.gevatheatre.org ............................ 15

Harley School (585)442-1770, www.harleyschool.org .......................... 50

Perri’s at the Brighton Pub (585)244-9090, www.perrispizza.com ............................ 73

Highlands of Pittsford Senior Living, The (585)586-7600, www.highlandsatpittsford.org................ 55

Pine Pharmacy 12 Corners (585)244-8659, www.pinepharmacy.com....................... 17

Hochstein School of Music & Dance (585)454-4596, www.hochstein.org ............................... 50 Hong Wah Restaurant (585)385-2808, www.hongwahrestaurant.com................ 73 Jewish Senior Life (585)427-7760, www.jewishseniorlife.org ...................... BC Kanack School of Musical Artistry (585)244-6910, www.kanack.org ................................... 51 Lucas Greenhouses (585)223-8951, www.lucasgh.com ................................ 34 Memorial Art Gallery (585)276-8900, www.mag.rochester.edu ....................... 51 Monroe Veterinary Associates (585)271-2733, www.monroevets.com .......................... 52 New Energy Works (585)924-3860, www.newenergyworks.com ................... 34 Oak Orchard Health (585)637-3905, www.oochc.org .................................... 50 OFC Creations (585)667-0954, www.ofccreations.com ......................... 50 Our Lady of Mercy High School (585)288-7120, www.mercyhs.com ............................... 51 Owl House/Play House (585)360-2920, www.owlhouserochester.com ............... 75 Pane Vino on the Ave (585)586-7000, www.panevinoontheavenue.com ........... 73

Radio Social (585)244-1484, www.radio-social.com .......................... 67 Rochester Brainery (585)730-7034, www.rochesterbrainery.com.................. 21 Rochester Colonial (585)254-8191, www.rochestercolonial.com .................. 35 Rochester Design Center (585)474-5677, www.rochesterdesigncenter.com .......... 34 Rochester Gay Men’s Chorus (585)423-0650, www.thergmc.org ................................. 52 Seward House Museum (315)252-1283, www.sewardhouse.org .......................... 52 Sheldrake Point Vineyard (607)532-9401, www.sheldrakepoint.com ...................... 52 Susan Ververs (585)785-2000 ................................... IBC The Strong/ National Museum of Play (585)263-2701, www.museumofplay.org ......................... 1 Thorley Wealth Management (585)512-8453 .................................... 56 Upstate Pain Clinic (585)267-7700, www.upstatepainclinic.com .................. 65 Vertical Elegance (585)641-2152, www.verticalelegance.com ................... 17 Walsh Duffield Companies, Inc. (585)586-8000 .................................... 29 WXXI Public Television (585)258-0200, www.wxxi.org ....................................... 56 585mag.com | March/April 2020

Seen

(585) magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s January/February issue launch and happy hour At the Inn on Broadway, January 7, 2020

Photos by Abby Rose Esposito and Chrisom B. Photography

Erin McDonald and Lynn Fallone

Ann McAllister and George Conboy

Gail Smith, Terri Sauerhafer, Phyllis Mangefrida, and Joanne French

Clyde Miller and Jacob Rabideau

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Hank and Nancy Kula

Jason and Emily DiCesare

Kaleigh Witzel, Martin Martinez, and Alexis Lodico

Tanvi Asher, Brie Wigent, Greg Hollar, and Joseph Rothrock

LJ Autovino, Molly McGinnis, Hugh Rundle, and Darlando Bailey

Michele Randall and Ann McAllister

Seen | Issue launch (585) magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s January/February issue launch and happy hour

Peter and Tracy Gugel

April Franklin and Denise Batiste

Kieley Milliman and Tanvi Asher

Millie and Don Markajani

Katherine Kunze and (585) VP of sales Caroline Kunze

Bill Cutro, Arlena LaRocca, Karim Abed, and Michelle Cutro

Jen Miglioratti and Roxanne Stavropoulos

Jenie and John Kanik

Jim Prosperi and Dana Abramson

Jeff and Megan Crandlemire

Mark Gillespie, Tatiana Plazas-Gillespie, and Piedad Torres

585mag.com | March/April 2020

Unplugged The brewmeister

John Urlaub was brewing craft beer before brewing craft beer was cool By John Ernst

because I knew I had a plan. But it was an interesting time. So I tried to do some hands on to learn a little bit. I took some classes at RIT, and you don’t always learn that much from classes, but we’ve always had really talented culinary folks, and as a company you just put the focus on what’s important. To this day, every single shift, our servers have to write a little report that says a customer said “this was great,” or they didn’t like this, or “the portion looks bad in this,” or “we’re out of this.” And it drives them crazy because some of them have been working for me for twenty years, and I’m still doing shift reports. But all those little things in a competitive business make a difference. So we focus every single day to make sure we’re delivering value, good quality, we’re listening to our customers, what are their concerns? What do they like? And you do that all the time. You’re relentless, and you can keep the quality up. The restaurant’s been around for twenty-five or thirty years. To me, that’s the secret, just listen to your customers and making sure you’re delivering what they’re looking for.

Did you live in Rohrbach for work? I did live in Rohrbach. It was nice. I was there for two years. I was working for Kodak. Great assignment. I was responsible for any of the US sales that would go directly to US embassies and the military and the territory was really Iceland to Turkey. So it was all of Europe, but Germany was in the middle there, and Heidelberg was a nice place to live. Coming out of a career at Kodak, did you have a background in food? How did you go about building such a successful business in food? Well, it’s almost like everything we’ve done; you surround yourself with the right people, and you have to know the skills that you have. I really have a finance background. So I think I knew how to run a company. But first thing I did, I don’t know if you remember Oscars, but back then it was Ozzy’s. I worked there for awhile. I worked at Spaghetti Warehouse, and it was a funny time because I had left Kodak on my own volition. I don’t know if people knew it or not because I was pretty young, but then all of a sudden I’m waiting tables at Spaghetti Warehouse. My Kodak friends would come in and really felt bad for me, and I’d have a little smile 80

March/April 2020 | 585mag.com

Do you think the craft beer movement has grown too fast and is at risk of deflating? I think that it’s happened really fast in the last two or three years. So again, I think that the right business plan could really work. I think part of the smaller breweries is the retail piece.You’ve got to have a nice tasting room and have people come in and buy a pint of beer or take some beer to go. The wholesale market, you look at the shelves and the local supermarkets out on Wegman’s. There’s a lot of products out there. So the reality is I think maybe there’s a few too many. It happened all too fast, and there might be a little bit of adjustment. But really, I don’t think craft beer is going away. I think if craft brewers continue to be creative and make really good products, there are a lot of beer drinkers that drink domestic beer that might slide over to craft. So I’m very optimistic about the market, but there might be a little bit of a shakeout. There’s a lot of breweries that have opened up all at once. Are there any other particularly strong partnerships that have resonated throughout your company’s lifetime? The Redwings brought us on a long time ago. I mean, before craft beer was even that popular, it was back at Silver Stadium. We go back twenty-plus years with them, and I remember there were national magazines saying, “Why can’t craft beer get into sports venues?” And we’ve raised the flags. We’ve been doing this for years. I really think it was in the forefront, and they’ve made a big commitment. We make the Redwing Red, which I think is a great summer beer. And really, especially back in the day when we were trying to pitch our beers to different people, they gave us credibility because, “Oh, Rohrbach, you’re the one that’s at Frontier Field or at the old Silver Stadium.” We were, and that gave us a foot in the door that would maybe let them try our beer.

Photo by Michael Hanlon

Can you tell me about Rohrbach, Germany? It’s outside of Heidelberg. I think it’s one of the most beautiful cities in all of Europe. It’s a university town. There’s actually a big university there in Heidelberg, and it overlooks the Necker river. In Rohrbach the one thing that I remember about, because it’s a tiny little town, quite a few residents around it and it’s definitely just a suburb of Heidelberg. But there are two buildings that were built way before roads, and it’s just a tiny little road. And honestly, small cars can get through it and not trucks. And that’s the main road, but they’re not going to take these buildings down. So it’s just a town that was built a long time ago. And when we were thinking about names for the company, we had a long list, but we’re back, we’re moving into the German house, and it seemed to be the right fit.

What do you think is the most creative limited release you’ve done? Maybe the griddle cakes. It really was like blueberry and maple and tasted like pancakes. And we’ve really hit the mark. And we stuck to our guns that it was a limited release. We may bring it back as a throwback, but it was part of the neoteric series, and it was meant to be out there for six or eight weeks, and people ask for it all the time so it might come back and in limited basis. But that did really well for us.

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