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THE EXCEPTIONAL, WITHOUT EXCEPTION independent hotels.
Every hotel of The Set is distinct in style and setting, brought together by a shared promise of perfection.
There is something about summer that calls us outward – toward new horizons, unfamiliar streets, and wide-open skies. It’s why we curate each issue to honour that very instinct: the desire not just to move, but to be moved.
In this edition of , we journey deep into the heart of Kenya on an unforgettable safari with a purpose. Beyond the Big Five, this is a story of place – of the people, conservationists and visionaries, who are safeguarding some of the world’s most vital ecosystems. It’s a compelling reminder that luxury and responsibility need not be at odds.
For those seeking their seasonal city fix, our insiders’ guides to Munich and Nice reveal vibrant, sun-dappled slices of Europe. Whether it’s tracing the cool corridors of the Bavarian capital’s contemporary art scene
or soaking up the Riviera’s golden light, both destinations offer a perfect blend of culture, cuisine and summertime joie de vivre.
And, with America’s legendary Route 66 approaching its centenary, we pay tribute to the highway that defined freedom and wanderlust for generations. Our retrospective explores the trail’s enduring allure, from retro motels with neon signs to the myths and memories that continue to shape the great American road trip.
To accompany you on these sojourns, we’ve compiled a selection of goodies, ranging from statement timepieces to the must-have accessories and much more.
Wherever this summer takes you, be it into the wild, along a palm-fringed coast, or exploring the best of a great city, we hope this magazine will be your trusted companion in the art of going well.
“Whether tracing the cool corridors of Munich’s contemporary art scene or soaking up the Riviera’s golden light in Nice, you’ll find a perfect blend of culture, cuisine and summertime joie de vivre”
SOROI LIONS BLUFF
BRIGHT TOMORROW
In Kenya – and around the world – a golden age of purpose-led travel is dawning
Sincerely Yours
Experience graceful luxury in the heart of the City with Pan Pacific London, where contemporary design creates a retreat of peace and calm.
Immerse yourself in a unique London adventure, from vibrant market stalls to Michelin-starred dining and iconic landmarks - all just moments away.
The World of Pan Pacifi c Hotels Group | panpacifi c.com
HERE COMES THE SUN
As its trailblazing Green Collection turns two, the world’s largest alliance of independent hotel brands is expanding its ranks and doubling down on sustainability, says Coco Georgiou
Amere two years on from its launch, Global Hotel Alliance’s Green Collection is flying high. What began as a hopeful idea has blossomed into a vibrant community of 472 certified hotels, resorts and palaces – making up more than half of GHA’s worldwide family. This impressive 150% growth is a clear sign that sustainable hospitality is no longer a niche dream, but a flourishing reality – across 60 countries and 260 unforgettable destinations.
Each Green Collection property meets rigorous standards through certifications from environmental bodies such as EarthCheck, Green Key and Green Globe, ensuring they’re consistently upholding sustainable practices that protect the environment and positively impact local communities. From heritage buildings in historic cities to barefoot retreats in far-flung corners of the world, the collection celebrates a truly global commitment to greener travel. Be it cutting out single-use plastics, sourcing food locally or embracing low-impact design, each hotel plays its part.
“Sustainability is now a defining pillar of hospitality – not just an option, but a responsibility,” says Jelena Kezika, Senior Director of Strategy at GHA. “Our member brands are sharing knowledge and guiding one another on initiatives that drive real impact.”
And guests are showing their support through their bookings. In 2024, stays at Green Collection properties rose by 16%; the average stay was 9% longer than at other GHA hotels; and spend-per-stay was 26% higher. Whether unwinding on a golden Indian Ocean beach or breathing in the crisp air of the Swiss Alps, travellers are choosing properties that reflect their values – and rewarding them handsomely for it. In total, Green Collection properties accounted for 71% of all revenue generated across GHA’s portfolio this year. Further good reasons for the champagne to flow freely this summer.
Green Collection also welcomed three new brands in 2024: Paramount Hotels, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts, and Lore Group. Of GHA’s 45 brands, 25 now include at least one Green Collection property, signalling strong cross-brand alignment around a more mindful future.
The alliance has achieved a milestone at its own HQ, too.
This year, GHA’s Dubai office became EarthCheck certified – an effort led by its internal Green Team and aligned with the second anniversary of both the Green Collection and the Donate DISCOVERY Dollars (D$) initiative, which allows GHA DISCOVERY loyalty programme members to donate their D$ to various charities and philanthropic organisations.
“Our goal is to empower 30 million GHA DISCOVERY members to make choices that reflect their values,” Kezika says. “As travellers become more conscious, we are proud to offer a growing number of luxury stays that champion the planet.”
NEXT-LEVEL NEWCOMERS
Previous page: the new NH Collection Ibiza puts guests within a 10-minute walk of some of Europe’s finest nightlife venues
SUITE ESCAPES…
Clockwise from top left: Patina Osaka’s P72 restaurant has been designed to reflect Japan’s 72 micro-seasons; an expertly cooked steak at NH Collection Ibiza; the tranquil swimming pool at Patina Osaka; the retreat-style Patina Osaka offers science-backed spa therapies in a serene environment; for a stylish Costa del Sol stay, book into the new NH Collection Marbella, in Puerto Banús FIRST LOOK Above:
Strength in numbers
Ultratravel extends a warm welcome to Abu Dhabi-based Rotana, which has recently joined GHA, adding 80 properties across the Middle East, North Africa, Eastern Europe and Turkey. Integration of Rotana’s portfolio – which includes brands such as Rayhaan, Centro and Arjaan – is well underway, with full programme access expected by early next year. Rotana’s loyalty scheme will rebrand as Rotana DISCOVERY, aligning with GHA DISCOVERY’s global benefits. The move brings GHA’s tally to nearly 950 hotels, edging it closer to its 1,000-property goal.
Pan Pacific Perth gets a sustainable overhaul
Following a major renovation, Pan Pacific Perth has emerged as one of Australia’s most forward-looking hotels. The redesign – led by the Singapore-based FDAT Architects – blends Western Australia’s natural elements with recycled materials, upgraded AV tech and sustainable meeting spaces. Backed by a surge in business travel and Perth’s airport redevelopment, the 488-room hotel is well positioned to thrive.
NH Collection expands to Ibiza and Marbella
Minor Hotels’ NH Collection has made its debut in the Balearic Islands and Costa del Sol, with openings in Ibiza and Marbella, respectively. These new properties underscore the brand’s southern Europe growth strategy and celebrate its 10th anniversary by bringing its global footprint to 100 hotels. Guests can expect thoughtful design, high-end gastronomy and plenty of Mediterranean charm – just in time for the summer season.
Patina arrives in Osaka
Having thrown open its doors on 1 May 2025, Patina Osaka introduces a new kind of transformative luxury to Japan’s hospitality landscape. Promising views of Osaka Castle, five dining venues, and integrated wellness tech, the 221-room urban retreat is a haven of art, music and design. As Japan looks to boost international tourism ahead of Expo 2025, Patina Osaka is positioning itself as the cultural heartbeat for global travellers seeking meaningful experiences in the city.
For more information or to join the programme for free, visit ghadiscovery.com or download the GHA DISCOVERY mobile app.
five-star city views from new urban retreat Patina Osaka Below: NH Collection Ibiza, where poolside DJ sets and 24-hour room service await party people
CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE
Why the world’s most discerning travellers prefer to fly with Singapore Airlines
Time is the one luxury we can’t replenish – so how we spend it matters. Even when in the air. That’s why seasoned travellers tend to smile when they mention Singapore Airlines, recalling a recent trip not just with satisfaction, but with genuine fondness. It’s also why Singapore Airlines has won more awards than any other airline, including for its KrisFlyer frequent-flyer programme, cabin crew, in-flight entertainment and culinary offering. Throw in seamless connections through three UK gateways – London Heathrow, London Gatwick and Manchester – and a network that spans more than 127 destinations across Asia, Australia, New Zealand and beyond, and it all points in one direction: your next big adventure.
The travel upgrade begins before you board, thanks to the airline’s award-winning SilverKris Lounges – including the Changi Airport flagship, whose bright, elegant design features a spectacular 12m installation of hand-crafted glass flowers. You’ll be able to rest, refresh and dine in style: think private nooks with runway views, rainfall showers and à la carte menus tailored to every time zone for eligible customers,
including those travelling in Suites/First Class and Business Class. There’s also a full-service bar, private productivity pods – and even nap rooms. Similarly, the recently upgraded SilverKris lounge at London Heathrow Terminal 2 is another oasis of calm, offering 16% extra seating capacity, private productivity pods, stylish wingback chairs and, its centrepiece, a long cocktail bar with personal bartender.
Then, there’s Book the Cook, which allows travellers to customise dining selections up to 24 hours before take-off, including delights such as seared scallops with roasted cauliflower and miso beurre blanc. Customers travelling in Suites/ First Class and Business Class can exclusively order from a bespoke menu by Monica Galetti –the latest world-renowned chef to have joined forces with Singapore Airlines to bring fine dining to the skies. There’s also a wellness-focused option curated in partnership with Singaporebased nutritionists, and the airline’s exclusive International Culinary Panel ensures that every in-flight meal is worth writing home about. Or emailing… You’ll find complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi in Suites/First Class and Business Class, as well as unlimited complimentary connectivity
for KrisFlyer members throughout Premium Economy and Economy Class.
The KrisWorld entertainment system transforms a trip into an opportunity to catch up on all the things you’ve been meaning to watch. With over 1,900 options across film, TV, music and games – including the recently introduced Apple TV – it offers a bespoke cinematic experience delivered through high-definition screens and noise-cancelling headphones. Plus, you can catch live sporting events such as the English Premier League season and many more with live TV. And, unlike at the cinema, there’s no need to leave your seat when you’d like a drink. The airline’s panel of wine consultants – including Masters of Wine – curates a cellar in the sky, with selections tuned to taste just as they should at altitude. A cheeky glass of Château Margaux 2016 Bordeaux, anyone?
Whether you’re bound for Sydney, Phuket or Auckland, you’ll benefit from the airline’s acclaimed Asian hospitality. Awarded World’s Best Airline Cabin Staff 2024 by Skytrax, Singapore Airlines sets a global benchmark for service. Its cabin crew train for four months – far longer than the industry average – with expert instruction in etiquette, deportment, cultural sensitivity, wine appreciation and more.
That next big adventure? It begins the moment you check in. singaporeair.com
THE SHORT
What’s hot, what to buy and what to know, as compiled by Ultratravel editors
GRACE, GRIT AND GRAND TOURING
In an exquisite confluence of elegance and endurance, the 24th Rallye des Princesses Richard Mille unfurled its storied route across France earlier this year. This singular event – part high society gathering, part mechanical ballet – once again affirmed its standing as the definitive celebration of feminine finesse in the world of classic motoring.
Traversing over 1,600km of ground, from the neoclassical splendour of Place Vendôme to the sun-drenched hedonism of Saint-Tropez, the all-female rally stitched together a narrative of style, heritage and sheer human resilience.
Richard Mille, the event’s title patron, lent its horological savoir-faire and avant-garde ethos to the proceedings, underscoring the rally’s marriage of precision and artistry. Alfa Romeo, serving as official automotive partner, made a stirring contribution, with the presence of the newly reimagined 33 Stradale alongside a cavalcade of heritage models, including the rare 1300 Zagato Junior Z and the romantic 2000 Spider Touring.
Yet the rally’s enduring allure lay not only in its machinery, but in its mosaic of human stories – intergenerational duos, transcontinental adventurers, and a blind co-driver charting France’s byways through Braille.
From Dijon’s gothic grandeur to Annecy’s alpine serenity and Avignon’s ecclesiastical charm, the 2025 edition – held this past May – unfolded as a sublime ode to camaraderie, craftsmanship and the indomitable spirit of women who navigate both life and road with uncommon poise. richardmille.com
BOOK SMARTS
Lawrence Azerrad’s Supersonic offers a visually rich tribute to the delta-winged Concorde, blending rare artefacts and design history into a sleek chronicle of aviation’s most glamorous era. penguinrandomhouse.com
AROMA THERAPY
MARK-ANTOINE BARROIS
Aldebaran is a radiant soliflore of tuberose reimagined with paprika and tonka bean – an ode to white flowers and celestial light by Marc-Antoine Barrois.
PARFUMS DE MARLY
Fresh citrus and spicy woody notes collide harmoniously in Castley – crafted for the modernday adventurer with a taste for the extraordinary.
AUDIO ARTISTRY
A rare David Bowie portrait by renowned photographer Denis O’Regan graces a limitededition run of just 30 Beosound A9 speakers—an artistic collaboration brought to life by finger-on-the-pulse Danish audio innovators Bang & Olufsen. bang-olufsen.com
SAVING FACE
As summer unfolds and our skin steps back into the spotlight, prudence and radiance need not be mutually exclusive. Two stand-out formulas prove that sun care can be both sensorial and sophisticated. ESPA’s cult-favourite Optimal Skin Pro-Moisturiser now comes fortified with SPF30, delivering hydration, glow and broad-spectrum protection in a single, lightweight layer suitable for all skin types. espaskincare.com
Meanwhile, Emma Lewisham’s Sunceutical SPF50 – eight years in the making – pairs 20% invisible Zinc Oxide with advanced actives like niacinamide and peptides. The result? A non-greasy, complexionbrightening shield that defends against UV rays and urban pollution alike. emmalewisham.com
A sextet of unisex summertime scents
DOLCE & GABBANA
To celebrate 25 years of its fragrance Light Blue, Dolce & Gabbana brings us Capri In Love – a romantic, jasmine-laced love letter to the island’s timeless, sundrenched elegance.
FLORIS
Purple Mémoire by Floris bursts with sophistication – a bold lavender scent laced with bergamot, orris and sandalwood. Evoking the contentment of English summers, it leaves a lasting veil of sunshine.
ELIE SAAB
ORMONDE JAYNE
Blending smoky vetiver, cedarwood and warm myrrh, the new L’Homme fragrance by Elie Saab channels elegance and magnetic depth. marcantoinebarrois.com parfums-de-marly.com dolcegabbana.com florislondon.com eliesaab.com ormondejayne.com
Vetiveria electrifies the senses with zesty lime, fiery Timur pepper and lush vetiver: an audacious celebration of grace, courtesy of Ormonde Jayne.
RAISING THE BAR
A fresh crop of elixirs to see you through the summer
From the poetic stillness of England’s Lake District to the electric soul of Rio, distilleries across the globe are releasing a clutch of extraordinary whiskies this season — each rooted in craft, narrative and rarity.
The Lakes Distillery (lakesdistillery.com) leads the charge with Signature, its first permanent single malt, shaped by élevage and sherry cask ageing. A layered, sherry-led expression from whisky-maker Sarah Burgess, formerly of The Macallan Estate, Signature balances treacle, citrus and dark fruits — a statement of maturity from England’s most progressive distillery.
From the windswept coast of Campbeltown arrives Glen Scotia’s (glenscotia.com) Elements of Campbeltown Release No.1: Air, which marks a historic moment: the distillery’s oldest release to date, a majestic 50-year-old dram. The inaugural chapter in a terroir-inspired series, it’s accompanied by a striking Gina Parr artwork, reflecting the coastal air and artistry behind the whisky.
That same rare half-century milestone echoes across the Irish Sea in Midleton Very Rare’s (midletonveryrare.com)
Silent Distillery Chapter Six. Also aged 50 years, this final release from Old Midleton — distilled in the world’s largest pot still and nurtured by four master distillers — is encased in Waterford crystal and rare wood, representing a €60,000 tribute to Irish whiskey’s most storied past.
Jack Daniel’s (jackdaniels.com), meanwhile, makes history of its own with the 10-Year-Old Tennessee Whiskey,
THE SHORT LIST
GOLDEN HOUR
These six newly released whiskies – spanning Kentucky straight bourbon to peated single malts – showcase the breadth of contemporary craftsmanship and flavour
the brand’s first permanent age statement in more than a century. Limited to 2,500 UK bottles and bottled at 97 proof, it’s all toasted oak, butterscotch and smoke, complemented by an exclusive Silver Seventeen cocktail at The Connaught.
At Benriach (benriachdistillery.com), tradition and innovation entwine in the Malting Season Fourth Edition, the final release in its floor-malted series and the first to carry an age statement. Matured for 10 years in bourbon and sherry casks, it evokes peach, almond and crème caramel in a creamy, Speyside embrace.
History whispers through every sip of the Littlemill (littlemilldistillery.com) Echoes of the Past debut — a 34-yearold, travel-retail-exclusive single malt drawn from the last
remaining casks of the lost distillery. With just 50 bottles to be released annually from the same oloroso cask, this inaugural chapter is a meditation on time and taste.
Where Littlemill looks inward to legacy, Scotland’s The Glasgow Distillery (glasgowdistillery.com) looks outward – pushing boundaries with its Small Batch Wine Cask Series. These three five-year-old expressions — one peated, two unpeated — are each finished in distinctive wine casks. From Greek Syrah to South African Constantia and French Pineau des Charentes, the results are bold, unexpected and gratifyingly global.
Over in the Cotswolds, Cotswolds Distillery’s (cotswoldsdistillery.com) Hearts and Crafts Calvados continues the producer’s Arts & Crafts-inspired series. Matured in Calvados casks and limited to 1,500 bottles, it’s orchard-rich and artfully packaged — a fragrant nod to William Morris and rural tradition.
And finally, Royal Salute’s (royalsalute.com) 21 Year Old Rio de Janeiro Polo Edition dazzles with tropical flair. The seventh in its Polo Collection, this vivid green flagon sees a marriage of creamy coconut, floral Braeval whisky and a flash of vanilla. As smooth as bossa nova and as vibrant as Rio itself, it’s whisky reimagined as cultural celebration.
“This is the first permanent age statement from Jack Daniel’s in more than a century”
Architectural alchemy
The Dalmore has unveiled the third chapter of its prestigious Luminary Series with two extraordinary limited-edition whiskies created in collaboration with Ben Dobbin of renowned architectural studio Foster + Partners.
The first, The Dalmore Luminary 2025 Edition – The Rare, is a majestic 52-yearold single malt housed in a dramatic, asymmetric bronze sculpture inspired by architectural tensegrity. Crafted by Dobbin and The Dalmore’s Master Whisky Makers, this singular decanter will be auctioned by Sotheby’s in summer 2025, with proceeds supporting design partner V&A Dundee.
The second release, The Dalmore Luminary No.3 – The Collectible, is a 17-yearold whisky finished in an intricate assemblage of rare Calvados, sherry and red wine casks. Its bespoke presentation case echoes the sculpture’s design language. With only 20,000 bottles available worldwide, this expression offers connoisseurs a more accessible way to experience the series’ rare craftsmanship and impressive creative vision.
Both whiskies exemplify The Dalmore’s signature fusion of heritage, innovation and fine artistry, with flavour profiles that mirror Dobbin’s architectural approach – layered, refined and deeply evocative. The launch, in Venice, coincides with the Venice Biennale of Architecture, further underscoring the bridge between whisky mastery and worldclass design. A rare convergence of taste, time and talent. thedalmore.com
THE SPIRIT OF CRAFT
The handsome crystal- and rare-wood presentation box of Midleton Very Rare showcases its collectible nature
THE SHORT LIST GET YOUR KICKS
The United States is revving up for the 100th anniversary of Route 66, the world’s most famous road trip. Nigel Tisdall reports
RUNNING SOUTH-WEST from Chicago to Santa Monica for 3,939km, America’s “Mother Road” will celebrate its centenary in 2026. Spanning eight states and three time zones, this epic transcontinental drive was decommissioned 40 years ago, yet remains a definitive step-on-the-gas adventure that still rides high on many a traveller’s wish list. One reason for the highway’s enduring popularity is its strong cultural associations, having appeared in everything from John Steinbeck’s 1939-published Dust Bowl novel The Grapes of Wrath to the much-covered 1946 song (Get Your Kicks on) Route 66. Another is its appeal to our freewheeling spirit, giving us a chance to roll through the American heartlands from the green prairies of southern Illinois to the sun-bleached deserts of Arizona, making pit stops at places adorned with gaudy neon signs – classic diners, retro motels and open-air drive-in cinemas – along the way.
TIMELESS APPEAL
Explore 45km of open road as you cross Arizona’s Petrified Forest National Park, near Holbrook
Following this legendary road – which has been superseded by faster but more boring interstate highways that in some places run right alongside their predecessor – requires some determination. Dedicated books and maps are available to help purists track every historic twist and turn, though many prefer to simply dip in and out, perhaps adding on a side trip to the Grand Canyon or Las Vegas. You’ll need to allow two weeks, preferably three, for the full drive, with April to October the best time to hit the road. Smart travellers will go this year, before things really hot up for the Route 66 Centennial Celebration, which kicks off in Springfield, Missouri, on 30 April next year.
Cities, states and enterprises are already busy flagging up their associations with a venerable thoroughfare that the Scottish comedian Billy Connolly has wryly dubbed “a tale in tarmac”. Chicago has just put up new road signage; Illinois is highlighting 66 points of interest en route, from Al Capone’s grave to the Route 66 Association Hall of Fame in Pontiac, with its antique cars and petrol pumps. Following a copyright claim that lasted two years, Tulsa has now been designated the official “Capital of Route 66”. In Flagstaff, Arizona, the Mother Road Brewing Company is already serving beers named in homage, from Sunday Drive lager to Limited Visibility pale ale.
Be prepared for tacky tourist attractions and unabashed nostalgia, including giant “Muffler Men” statues erected in
“The route appeals to our freewheeling spirit: we can roll through the American heartlands from the plains of Illinois to the deserts of Arizona”
CRUISE CONTROL
Clockwise from top left: kitsch reigns supreme at a pit stop in Tulsa, Oklahoma; kick off your epic drive in Chicago, birthplace of the skyscraper; take a ride to the top of the 192m tall Gateway Arch in St Louis, Missouri; who needs sat nav when the “Mother Road” is so well equipped with user-friendly pit stops?
“Celebrate reaching the end of the route with a burger and fries at Mel’s Drive-In”
THE SHORT LIST
the 1960s and 70s to entice motorists to stop and refuel at restaurants serving hot dogs, cheeseburgers and ice cream. Discerning travellers can elevate the tone by renting a vintage Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette or lipstick-red pickup. What to wear? Pack a denim jacket and aviator sunglasses, then pick up some fancy cowboy boots at Langston’s in Oklahoma City (langstons.com), which stocks more than 10,000 pairs.
The smartest hotels and restaurants are in the big cities that bookend the drive, along with St Louis and Santa Fe, while in smaller stops, such as Albuquerque, Gallup and Flagstaff, traditional motels redesigned as hipster getaways make for fun overnighters. Music fans will want to linger in Tulsa, with its centres devoted to Woody Guthrie and Bob Dylan, while Santa Fe is the place to tune into Native American art and the luminous landscapes of Georgia O’Keeffe.
The further west you drive, the quieter it gets, with nature providing the thrills: in Arizona, there’s the Petrified Forest National Park, near Holbrook, and the stupendous Meteor Crater, which was created over 50,000 years ago and is a staggering 1.2km wide. The finale to this great road odyssey comes when you reach the Pacific Ocean and Santa Monica’s famous pier – by coincidence, the city is 150 years old this year. Grab a we-did-it photo at the “End of the Trail” sign, then celebrate with an R-66 burger and fries at Mel’s Drive-In (melsdrive-in.com), a delightfully kitsch conclusion to a road trip where the journey really is the destination (route66-centennial.com)
THE GOOD OLE DAYS
From top: for a nostalgic step into the past, New Mexico’s Blue Swallow Motel, in Tucumcari, delivers; the Santa Monica sign that marks the end of the road trip is cause for high-fives
PASTEL POWER
Watchmakers are embracing the allure of subtle colour, blending whimsy with horological excellence, discovers Chris Hall
ICE-BREAKER
Japanese ice forests were the inspiration for Grand Seiko’s head-turning SLGB001 release
A SOFTER SIDE OF PRECISION
In 2020, Rolex introduced a singular collection of Oyster Perpetual watches with dials in bright shades of red, green, yellow, pale blue and pink. It wasn’t the very first time Rolexes had been given bold, outthere dials – the so-called “Stella” dials from the 1970s are among the brightest, and most collectible, out there. But it was the first time in the modern era that Rolex had been anywhere near as expressive.
Watch brands had already begun to branch out from their safe, traditional palettes of black, white and blue. Green dials were sweeping the industry, but the significance of a full set of complementary colours, and from the most influential trend-setter of them all, was not to be overstated. Before long, block-colour collections were the norm everywhere from Omega to Oris.
A few years later, Rolex (rolex.com) even riffed on the concept with its cult-favourite Oyster Perpetual “bubbles”, using every colour from the original collection in one whimsical dial design. It was overshadowed by the release the same year of a Day-Date with a jigsaw-puzzle enamel dial and emoji icons instead of days of the month, but in the long run, the “bubble” Oyster Perpetual will probably prove the more significant design. Now it has been discontinued, and Rolex has ushered in a new era with a selection of tastefully muted pastel dials, released at Watches & Wonders this April. This time, the rest of the industry was also on board.
Joining the Oyster Perpetual range this year are references in beige, pistachio and lilac, in sizes ranging from 34mm to 40mm, while over in the all-new Land-Dweller line-up, an ice-blue model also fits the bill.
Glacial blues were the single most common shade, in fact. At Montblanc (montblanc.com), it was a literal nod to the design inspiration behind the Iced Sea dive watch,
Above: the reimagined Big Crown Pointer Date by Oris comes in a range of covetable colours
Above right: one of the new easy-on-the-eye pastel iterations from trailblazer Rolex
Right: Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Auto Horizon will pair well with a crisp, box-fresh summer shirt
FRESH IMPACT
Hublot marks 20 years of precision timing with a quietly luxurious new mint-green Big Bang chronograph in full ceramic
“The Glacier by Nomos Glashuette combines pale blue with faded red for a look best described as ‘vintage polar expedition’”
this year given a gradient dial fading from blue to white. At Grand Seiko (grand-seiko.com), natural inspiration was also cited for the dial of reference SLGB001, this time hailing from the ice-covered forests of the Kirigamine Highlands, which lie to the east of the brand’s Shinshu Watch Studio. (There was a pastel purple on display, too, reference SBGW323, inspired by the delicate kiri flower of the Iwate prefecture.)
Laurent Ferrier (laurentferrier.ch) gave ice blue the pristine lines of a perfectly ironed shirt on its Classic Auto Horizon; Chopard (chopard.com) opted for a shimmering frost-like finish for the very similar shade on its platinum-cased L.U.C Quattro. Parmigiani Fleurier (parmigiani.com), meanwhile, was smooth and matt; a pure baby blue for its Toric Perpetual Calendar, the simplicity of the dial finish combining with the
TIME TRAVELLERS
Left: Patek Philippe’s new Calatrava 6196 employs “rose gilt” to elegant effect
Above: the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer by Nomos Glashuette balances form and function for a timepiece that will take you anywhere
subtle subdials to create a watch that belies its complicated mechanism. At Nomos Glashuette (nomos-glashuette.com) – the other brand besides Rolex to really own the concept of ambitious, multi-reference sets – pastels were represented in the mix for its Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. Among some stronger shades, the Glacier actually stood out, its pale blue combining with parchment and faded red for a look that’s best described as “vintage polar expedition”.
Hublot (hublot.com), celebrating 20 years of its Big Bang collection, had a number of blue watches in a similar vein, but exemplified the trend best of all with a mint-green Big Bang chronograph in full ceramic. Since introducing a devil-red version 10 years ago, the brand has pioneered statement watches in monotone ceramic shades, from
wasp yellow to forest green, but it was notable to find the self-described “antithesis to quiet luxury” pivoting away from primary colours into pastels. Oris (oris.ch) kept a foot in both camps with its redesigned Big Crown Pointer Date: there was a tart lemon yellow, a majestic purple and an eminently crowd-pleasing mid-blue. And for the more refined tastes, a pistachio green and a heritage blue to match that of Nomos’ World Timer – the latter Big Crown coming with the brand’s in-house Calibre 400 movement. Even Patek Philippe (patek.com) got in on the act to an extent: its new Calatrava 6196 debuted in platinum with a dusky-pink dial, which it describes as “rose gilt” rather than the usual “salmon pink” – a look made stronger by the thick, black hour markers and hands. Nevertheless, it sits alongside our other pastel shades perfectly. Since Watches & Wonders, other brands around the world have announced full sets of pastel-dialled designs, including Seiko (seikowatches.com), whose Presage collection always features dials that punch above their price tags, and Orient Star, with a five-model set of softly coloured designs in its Contemporary Date range. Here, you’ve got a choice of red, orange, green, blue and grey. As ever, Rolex’s influence is felt far and wide.
Taste the world
Discover Epicurean Perfection™ with Regent Seven Seas Cruises®
When reminiscing about trips of a lifetime, it’s the small things that jump out. A glass of Krug Grande Cuvée enjoyed on deck beneath a star-scattered sky – that turns out to be the same vintage you toasted your marriage with, all those moons ago. The moment when, having just been seated in a glittering restaurant, the whole family together again at long last, you spot your all-time favourite on the menu – and that heavenly first mouthful. Making magical memories is what Regent Seven Seas Cruises specialises in, and now, with its thrilling new Epicurean Perfection offering, the world’s most luxurious fleet invites travellers to savour each destination through the details that linger longest – the flavours, ingredients and dishes that define a place.
“Nothing enhances travel like cuisine,” says the cruise line’s President. “That is why we are unveiling our new
OCEANS OF FLAVOUR
Regent’s Epicurean Perfection serves up global discovery on a silver platter, from culinary masterclasses to vineyard visits
Epicurean Perfection programming – so our guests enjoy an unrivalled culinary experience both on board and ashore, through our collection of world-class restaurants, immersive shore excursions, tours, classes and tastings.
FLAVOUR, IMMERSION AND DISCOVERY
Comprised of three pillars – Epicurean Cuisine, Epicurean Explorations and Epicurean Enrichment – the inspiring new programming spells good news for hungry travellers. Available across every region, Epicurean Explorations invites curious palates to dive deep into local flavours through shoreside experiences. You might find yourself sipping mezcal straight from the source at a distillery in Oaxaca, or strolling through an ancient, sun-soaked Provençal market with a chef in tow. Designed for those who love to explore through their taste buds, the line-up of tours – from Wine & Spirits to Local Flavours – includes vineyard visits, street-food tastings, cookery demonstrations and intimate meals at restaurants beloved by discerning locals, with all the logistics handled beautifully for you – no wrangling with the sat-nav required.
Back on board, your delicious journey continues with Epicurean Enrichment – a gourmand’s dream voyage, served à la carte. Whether you’re rolling pasta under expert eyes in the state-of-the-art Culinary Arts Kitchen aboard Seven Seas Splendor® or sipping your way through a sommelier-led tasting en route from Lisbon to Santorini, these hands-on experiences are designed to stir your inner gourmand.
Want to go even deeper? Spotlight Voyages bring together world-class chefs and vintners, from Napa to Naples, for richly rewarding journeys with on-board talks and demonstrations from leaders in the field.
CULINARY ARTISTRY
Haute cuisine on the high seas
THREE DECADES OF DELIGHT
Founded in 1992, Regent Seven Seas Cruises® has long been a favourite among seasoned travellers for its elegant design and generous on-board space – across the fleet, an impressive 98% of suites feature private balconies. Never tried a luxury cruise before?
This “floating hotel” experience will be a revelation, with no queues, no crowds, and countless opportunities to unwind in comfort. And, with unlimited shore excursions, fine dining, premium drinks, valet laundry, gratuities – and more – all included in the fare, all you have to do is relax and enjoy the adventure. Whether toasting an anniversary in the Greek Isles, sharing an epic journey through Asia with loved ones, or simply giving yourself the gift of time, you can be sure your voyage will be infused with flavour and flair. Because with Regent, you don’t just explore the world – you taste it. RSSC.com
SPICE OF LIFE
The pinnacle of Caribbean luxury. This breathtaking beachfront residence offers uninterrupted sea and Piton views, featuring nine luxurious bedrooms, world-class amenities, and the unparalleled service of Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort. Enjoy the expertise of a private chef and daily dining experiences tailored to you.
From Belle Époque facades to buzzing beachfronts, the French city of Nice is shedding its sleepy image, with a wave of fresh ambition breathing new life into its seaside soul. JeremyWayne takes us on a tour of his adopted Mediterranean home
It’s nicer, much nicer in Nice”, belted out incomparable cockney Barbara Windsor in Ken Russell’s sparkling 1971 movie of Sandy Wilson’s campy stage-play The Boy Friend – and as an adoptive Niçois, I’ll tell you this from one who knows: she wasn’t ‘arf wrong.
But, ravishingly lovely as Nice is to look at, with its magnificent sweep of the Baie des Anges, its famous Promenade, its beguiling Vieux-Nice, or Old Town, and its extravagant architectural masterpieces, in recent years it had become – how shall I put this? – a city slightly in the doldrums; a provincial town not quite at the top of its game.
In the aftermath of two abhorrent terrorist attacks, along with the kind of urban problems common to some degree in all cities – immigration, drugs, homelessness – poor old Nice was feeling a little under its rather wonderful weather. So much so, indeed, that many devotees of the Côte d’Azur had been sidestepping it, shooting off to overcrowded Cannes, Antibes or Monaco instead, and thereby missing – forgive the cliché but it’s apt – the jewel in the Riviera crown.
But wait, hold those Camargue horses. Because, recently – in the last decade or so – things here have been a-changin’ – and changin’ very much for the better – thanks in huge part to the leadership of the city’s dynamic mayor, Christian Estrosi – a native of Nice.
Now enjoying a second term following a period out of office after the first, Estrosi – and by extension, this city – are on a roll. Vast improvements to Nice’s infrastructure, including the expansion of the tram network and the introduction of new lines that connect key areas of the city, have made public transport super-efficient and accessible. The sophisticated Yego bike-sharing programme and dedicated bike lanes make getting around the city (and getting fit) a cinch. And the revitalisation of the Promenade du Paillon, a green corridor that runs through the centre of Nice, has transformed the area into a glorious, wide outdoor space for pedestrians; somewhere locals and tourists can stroll, kids can play and chic Niçois dogs – and there are any number of them – can do what chic Niçois dogs gotta do.
It doesn’t stop there. Forward-looking Estrosi has also pushed for Nice to become a “smart” city, implementing digital technologies to improve urban living, with smart street lighting and automated waste-management systems. Nowhere in France are public services so advanced.
Incentives for startups and tech companies that align with the smart city vision are also high on the civic agenda. It’s no wonder that people from all over Europe – but especially tired and put-upon Parisians – are moving here in their droves.
Sorry to sound gushy, like I’m the standard-bearer of the Estrosi fan club, but gush I must. The mayor has also worked hard to emphasise the importance of community engagement in decision-making processes, fostering a real sense of belonging and pride among residents – so much so, in fact, that, in my experience, it’s rare these days to find a disgruntled or impolite Niçois in the workplace. And importantly, increased security measures have also been implemented to ensure the safety of residents and tourists, especially in the wake of past incidents, which in turn has helped improve the overall perception of the city as a safe destination – which at any rate, in relative terms, it is.
Even the drug dealers, if we can say this in a family magazine, are civil, sticking to their patch around the colourful Rue Pertinax. (An older lady of my acquaintance who lives on the edge of the quartier reports how the dealers couldn’t be more charming, always greeting her with a friendly “Bonjour, Madame” when she steps out each morning and helping her out of her Uber when she comes home after an evening out).
And it gets better still, because concurrently with Estrosi & Co massively upgrading the city’s infrastructure, its social fabric and its general liveability, the cultural life of the capital of the Côte d’Azur has exploded.
Art is in overdrive in Nice, which, with 11 municipal museums in a city with a population of under 400,000, clearly punches culturally well above its weight. Even with Nice’s premier museum, MAMAC – the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art – closed for much-needed renovations until 2028, there is art aplenty: a superb
Raoul Dufy show at the Musée des Beaux Arts, open until the end of September; instillation artist Anne-Laure Wuillau’s water-themed show at the exquisite, 17th century Musée du Palais Lascaris in Vieux-Nice, also through September; and Chagall’s “The Venice Years”, at the Marc Chagall National Museum, running until the end of November, to name but three shows currently drawing plaudits.
In addition to these, as part of the Nice Biennale 2025 – whose theme for this edition is “The Year of the Sea” – the dramatic “La Mer Autour de Nous” (The Sea Around Us) exhibition, while spread around town, is focused on the beautiful Villa Arson on St-Barthélemy
“A clutch of new luxury hotels is the best testament to Nice's resurgence”
Hill, with its stupendous panoramic views of the city. Catch it until the end of October 2025.
And yet another museum, albeit of a different kind, is attracting attention, and deservedly so. That’s Nice’s new Museum of the (French) Resistance, situated by Park Phoenix in the west of the city, opened in 2023. Best of all, a four-day Nice Museum pass gets you into all of these, and as often as you wish, for only €15.
Exhausted? You will be, because there’s music, too, including regular Monday evening chamber music performances at the Chagall Museum, and opera and ballet at the city’s stunning 19th-century opera house, which is
DE RIGUEUR
Top: the iconic golden sweep of the Baie des Anges Left: toast your Riviera getaway at a restaurant in Place Massena
Crème de la crème
also the home of the Nice Philharmonic Orchestra. And if you miss Eric Clapton on stage at the Palais Nikaïa in June, try catching Chris White and the Dire Straits Experience, who play the same venue in October.
Aside from Nice’s three-week carnival in February and March each year – the largest in France, and the main winter event on the Côte d’Azur – there’s plenty of other drama year-round in Nice. In the last few years, a number of small independent theatres has sprung up, like the Théâtre de l’Inattendu, the Théâtre de l’Eau Vive and Théâtre l’Alphabet – all three of which are in the low-key, rather beautiful Carabacel district. If it’s pure comedy you’re after, meanwhile, and you’re up on the latest French vernacularisms, the new Impasse club, off the Italianate Place Garibaldi, is where you’ll be headed.
Last but clearly not least, a clutch of new luxury hotels is perhaps the best testament to Nice’s resurging fortune, the leader in a tight field being the Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel. (And what good news that the Louis Roederer popup at the hotel’s rooftop bar, with its 360° views, seems to have become a permanent fixture.) Funny, though, isn’t it, how often it’s the little things that stand out. I’m
thinking about that miracle-working Thalion eye cream exclusive to the Anantara spa (I’m told I look 10 years younger since I started applying it), and those Bouquet d’Or chocolate bears they spoil you with in the guest suites. I’d sell my grandmother for a decent supply of those – well, if I had one to sell, that is.
Nice’s central square, Place Massena, is a minute away from the Anantara, and the Promenade des Anglais is two minutes away, while the fab French Four – Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Cartier – are all neighbours. Alternatively, the classy Carré d’Or district, just behind the hotel, is peppered with one-off independent boutiques, which are often much more rewarding than the big names.
I can’t help thinking that Queen Victoria, a regular visitor to the city in the 1890s, would have been most amused at Nice’s revival (and even allowed herself a spot of holiday shopping in celebration). Often wrongly painted as having been rather stiff and grumpy, she was, we now know, a good-humoured, music-loving gal who enjoyed a sing-song, so that if she were to visit today, I can just imagine her trilling a chorus of It’s Nicer in Nice
And you know what? She’d be absolutely right.
Where to stay
Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel
One of the city’s newest properties is Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel, the glorious neo-classical sea-facing masterpiece originally known as Hotel de France, completed in 1848 to serve the British aristocracy in the manner to which they were accustomed. Remodelled in the Belle Époque style in the Edwardian era, the edifice has been added to and enhanced over the years, reopening in 2022 with elegant renovations by David Collins Studio. In addition to the city’s most luxurious guest rooms and suites, Anantara offers some of Nice’s best dining at SEEN, plus a superb spa, a state-of-the-art fitness centre open 24/7, a fabulous rooftop bar, and access to a private beach. anantara.com
NH Nice
For a more price-wise option, NH Nice is a standout mid-range hotel near the Acropolis Palais des Expositions, just steps from Nice’s brilliant tramway and a 10-minute walk from the Old Town and the port. Generously sized rooms, a stunning rooftop pool and five-star breakfasts worth lingering over bring added value to this ever-popular four-star property. nh-hotels.com
Where to dine
Le Grand Café des Fleurs
This brand-new café on the emblematic Cours Saleya revives the spirit of French brasseries of old. grandcafedesfleurs.com
Brasserie Félix
Facing the Old Town, this stunningly revived oldie serves some of the best craft cocktails in the city. felixdenice.fr
Where to drink
Les Folies d’Edmonde
A laid back Niçois crowd of movers and shakers heads here for games, live music performances and top-notch cocktails, arranged over two floors. @lesfoliesdedmonde
Where to dance
Les Nuits Blanches
Located at the glamorous Port of Nice, Les Nuits Blanches is a supremely sophisticated nightspot. nuitsblanchesclub.com
Where to sunbathe
Bocca Mar
In pole position below the Promenade des Anglais, Bocca Mar is Nice’s chicest beach club du jour. boccamar.com
CARTE BLANCHE
Right, clockwise from top: Nice's Promenade des Anglais; a fish main served with Niçois pazazz at Brasserie Félix; Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel
GUARDIANS OF THE SAVANNAH
Today’s Kenyan safaris aren’t just about seeing the wild – they’re about safeguarding it, writes Julie
Alpine
We’ve just had some new intel,” our pilot informs us, as we step out of the Cessna onto a sun-baked ochre airstrip – a runway marked only by two lines of small white pebbles set against the desert-like backdrop of Kenya’s southern Rift Valley. Our driver, it seems, has located an airstrip closer to our next appointment – a demonstration of the life-saving first aid that community rangers are being trained to carry out in cases of human-predator conflict. “It’s two hours from here by road,” the pilot grins, “or five minutes by air.” He thumbs open the hatch: “Everybody back in!”
So continues a journey that feels both wildly adventurous and deeply purposeful – a different breed of safari where luxury meets conservation, and where what you learn is as powerful as what you see. Today’s discerning travellers no longer just want to tick off the Big Five: they want to go further, see differently, and understand more. Yes, we want to encounter elephants and lions, but not surrounded by pile-ups of 4x4s. Yes, we want to cross iconic Kenyan landscapes, but also to venture to more remote spots – places rarely seen by foreigners. Travelling with Explorations Company, we can relax on all fronts. Founded in 1989, the company’s tailormade, conservation-focused itineraries are built around meaningful connection and deep local knowledge, and all come with built-in opportunities for travellers to make a meaningful contribution in the countries they’re visiting – whether that’s through direct donations to community
“On today’s new breed of safari, what you learn is as powerful as what you see”
Above: The Lion King made real Right: Masai Mara women are making history with the support of the Anne K. Taylor fund
DRIVING CHANGE
Traversing the Masai Mara on a bush drive, visitors witness nature’s unfiltered theatre
FLIGHT FOR SURVIVAL
Kenya’s Rift Valley soda lakes are key habitats that support diverse wildlife, including some two million flamingoes
TOUCHING DISTANCE
A quiet moment with a giraffe highlights the importance of protecting Kenya’s unique habitats
BASE CAMP
Start or end your bespoke Kenyan safari at one of these stand-out Global Hotel Alliance stays, where members can earn and redeem DISCOVERY rewards
Villa Rosa Kempinski, Nairobi Grand, glamorous and perfectly positioned for some pre- or post-safari R&R. kempinski.com
Pan Pacific Serviced Suites, Nairobi Smart and central, and aimed at those planning longer stays with a luxe edge. panpacific.com
Olare Mara Kempinski, Masai Mara Ultra-private tented luxury in a big cat-rich Masai conservancy. kempinski.com
projects and schools or by choosing lodges and guides that reinvest in conservation and local livelihoods.
Back in the air, it’s hard to believe we’d taken off from a grassy, elephant-flanked airstrip in the Masai Mara less than an hour ago. There, we’d enjoyed a memorable opportunity to get out in the field with local teams supported by the Anne K. Taylor Fund, meeting a dynamic group of Masai women who are making sanitary packs that enable girls to remain in education for longer, and rangers who are determinedly combating poaching with intelligence-led tools such as camera traps.
Since then, the terrain has changed dramatically – lush savannah giving way to a sun-bleached map delineated by dry riverbeds. Then, shimmering into view, the mighty soda lakes – first Magadi, then Natron – a mesmerising, milky blue against the yellow earth that surrounds them. These are alkaline, unswimmable waters, but the flamingoes don’t
Masai men perform the adumu, or jumping dance, a display of strength, pride and rhythm passed through generations
THE SKY’S THE LIMIT
Above: a hot-air balloon glides over Kenya’s mighty Mara River, offering a bird’s-eye view of hippos, crocodiles and herds on the move – and represents a low-impact way to support conservation-focused tourism
LEAP OF FAITH
Right:
CIRCLE OF LIFE
Above: inside a traditional boma, Masai herders tend their goats in the early light. Livestock remains central to community life, culture and maintaining the delicate balance of the ecosystem across Kenya’s rangelands
“It’s the people, the partnerships and the sense of purpose that will stay with you the longest”
mind: a colony of some two million paints the shoreline a hazy pink, and flocks above it in vibrant formation.
In the end, we’re five minutes early for our meeting with SORALO, a grassroots conservation initiative founded in the belief that wildlife protection must be driven by the communities who share the same land. In an acacia-dappled clearing on the edge of the off-thebeaten-path Shompole Conservancy, we meet members of the team including the trailblazing Sylvia Nashipae. The conservancy’s first female ranger, Nashipae tracks wildlife, provides life-saving first aid and navigates the delicate balance between predators and pastoralists, where a lion revered by one elder may be considered a threat by a neighbouring herder. In a region where gender roles have traditionally been fixed, she’s also opening doors for other women, encouraging them to imagine new futures. “When young girls see me in uniform,” she says, “they start to believe they can do anything.”
After an unforgettable stay – joining local herdsmen to bring their cows and goats home at dusk, tubing in (crocodile-free) rivers, and one remarkable overnighter in a photography hide that offers privileged, front-row seats to what seems like the whole cast of The Lion King – we touch down in Tsavo, in Kenya’s south-east Coast Province, home to the country’s oldest and largest national park. Rugged golden plains melt into the horizon, baobabs stand sentry like ancient statues and herds of Cape buffalo and zebra go unhurriedly about their business. At the Lumo Community Wildlife Sanctuary, a pioneering operation made possible by the African Wildlife Foundation, night drives with community rangers reveal leopard eyes flickering in the long grass and bat-eared foxes in the headlights. At Lake Jipe, primeval-looking herons fish among the wildflowers that bloom at the water’s edge, the Pare Mountains towering in the distance. This is Kenya at its most magical: no minibuses, no selfie sticks, just the hush of nature and the thrill of being alive to witness such majesty.
Kenya’s wildlife might be a big pull, but it’s the people, the partnerships and the sense of purpose you encounter on a conservation-driven luxury safari like this one that will stay with you the longest. And, with it being very much a choose-your-own-adventure affair, you can build in as much time for R&R around visits to underthe-radar World War I battlefields and groundbreaking conservancies as you wish. Safari done right? It’s a deeply transformative experience. And after our epic trip? Well, for starters, we won’t automatically think “Florida” when we see a flamingo ever again. explorationscompany.com
ROCA RIVER CAMP, SHOMPOLE WILDERNESS, SOROI LIONS BLUFF, NICOLE LOVETT, JACK SWYNNERTON
CASTAWAY
ISLAND FIJI TAKES GREAT CARE IN ITS STEWARDSHIP
A founding member of MES Fiji (Mamanuca Environment Society) and a leading advocate of environmental sustainability in tourism development, Castaway’s collective actions include coral planting, beach and underwater clean-up, fish house making and coastal tree planting, in addition to back-of-house goals such as reducing energy, water and waste while working alongside like-minded local non-profit organizations.
The
Bavarian capital is quietly redefining cool, one independent designer boutique, craft cocktail and Michelin-starred menu at a time. Sahar Khan uncovers the best of Germany’s southern jewel
It is often said by Munichers that their city never changes. But over the past few years, the Bavarian capital has undergone a gentle renaissance. Its reputation as a buttoned-up metropolis – bar the month-long revelry that is Oktoberfest – has evolved, thanks to new boutiques, restaurants and art galleries that up the city’s cool quotient. Meanwhile, Munich’s stalwart sights and penchant for the latest in luxury remain a core part of its DNA: visitors can appreciate the Western art canon at world-class museums, stroll through city palaces and sprawling public parks, indulge in a tall tankard at a beer hall or test-drive the latest BMW on the Autobahn. As Munich straddles the line between corporate and cutting-edge, there’s plenty of fun to be had if you know where to look – preferably with a stein of beer in hand.
RETAIL THERAPY
Munich boasts all the top European labels you’d expect, from Prada to Gucci, with many of them found on Maximilianstrasse, but it’s the large choice of established and up-and-coming German brands with uniquely Bavarian designs that catch the eye. If Munich has a style, it is quiet luxury. And Germany’s most famous clothing brands perfectly fit that mould. Take Hugo Boss (hugoboss.com) – all clean lines and sleek accessories. Although now headquartered in Milan, Jil Sander ( jilsander.com) is another German-born brand known for its chic, minimalist designs. Lodenfrey (lodenfrey.com), which started as a small weaving mill in 1842 – one favoured by German and Austrian nobility for hunting attire – has evolved into a high-end department store. Located near the main square of Marienplatz, the six-storey landmark sells traditional Bavarian clothing including dirndls and lederhosen, contemporary pieces from international designers such as Victoria Beckham and Tory Burch, and from small German makers like Cambio and Windsor. Oberpollinger (oberpollinger.de), located on the pedestrianised, historic Neuhauser Street, is another upscale department store offering both international and German labels, including polished outerwear brand Woolrich (woolrich.com), and you’ve got Marc Cain (marccain.com) for contemporary womenswear with romantic twists. Independent designers abound: Akjumii (akjumii.com) is an elegant concept store and label that specialises in fluidly structured, three-in-one modular coats, and Anja Gockel (anjagockel.com) is well known for her whimsical designs.
MUNICH CALLING
MUNICH IN MOTION
Previous page: there’s a new buzz about the historic Hofgarten – and beyond. This page, clockwise from right: concept store Nora Khereddine; a Viktualienmarkt beer garden; visitors appreciate a Rubens masterpiece at the Alte Pinakothek; step back in time – and into the future – at the BMW Museum
The family-run label Riani (riani.com) aims to bridge the gap between street and luxury fashion through well-tailored womenswear with soft silhouettes. Now found in boutiques around the world, A Kind of Guise (akindofguise.com) was born in Munich, and its upgraded heritage basics remain a backbone of the brand.
German accessories brands are even more gung-ho on the concept of quiet luxury. Aigner (aignermunich.com) is known for its timeless leather goods, including handbags, belts and wallets, as well as high-end watches with winsome features such as horseshoe-shaped dials. For more finetuned instruments, head to the world-renowned Montblanc (montblanc.com), where the construction of ornate pens and timepieces is elevated to an art form. For trinkets of the sparkling variety, G.A. Müller (gamueller.org) has traded in fine jewellery since its founding in 1910, its focus on classics including tennis bracelets and diamond-studded hoops, while contemporary jeweller Saskia Diez (saskia-diez.com) crafts dainty, modern pieces for 21st-century lifestyles.
The Kunstgewerbemuseum (smb.museum) is a feast for fans of decorative arts, including courtly culture, furniture, stoneware, faience earthenware and miniatures. The museum gift shop sells beautifully crafted pieces inspired by its collections, including a paperweight mimicking the capital of a sixth-century Egyptian column and traditional Japanese paper printed with vibrant patterns. Concept store Nora Khereddine (norakhereddine.com), carefully curated by the eponymous Khereddine, combines a slew of crafts for the home and closet. Visitors can choose from a selection of Moroccan Tamegroute ceramics, vintage Berber blankets, candles from Ghent and hand-crafted knives from Spain. Crèmebar (cremebar-muenchen.de) stocks natural skincare products, including locally made brands Green + The Gent (greengent.com) and The Glow (the-glow.com) Customers can bring in empty bottles and have them filled with their choice of essential oils. For those with a literary bent, meanwhile, Literatur Moths (li-mo.com), near Isartor, one of the four medieval city-wall gates, is a 30-year-old independent bookshop selling contemporary literature. Books are arranged across a stylish mid-century, loft-style space – the ideal spot for whiling away an afternoon.
WINING AND DINING
Munich offers an exciting variety of gastronomic options, from traditional Bavarian cuisine with hearty ingredients and over-the-top proportions to Michelin-starred standouts. Dating to the 18th century, Dallmayr (dallmayr.com) is an iconic delicatessen that also features a fine-dining restaurant, Alois, boasting two Michelin stars. Up a flight of steps past the bar and shop on the ground floor sits a dining space drenched in art deco-inspired jewel tones, geometric shapes and birds-in-flight wallpaper. Chef Rosina Ostler infuses contemporary German fare with toothsome international flavours. Case in point? Her North Sea mussels
“Stroll through city palaces and parks, indulge in a tall tankard at a beer hall or test-drive the latest BMW on the Autobahn”
submerged in an emulsion of pickled local roses, pink pepper gel and Italian black rice with homemade squid garum. Another Munich recipient of two Michelin stars is Tantris (tantris.de), which has held the honour for nearly 40 years. The gastronomic pilgrimage spot is set in a brutalist building on the outskirts of Munich. Inside, it resembles a 1970s disco – the restaurant has retained the boho-glam orangeand-black decor it started out with in 1971. Chef Benjamin Chmura focuses on modern European fare with an emphasis on French influences, such as his butternut squash tarte tatin seasoned with quince, thyme and orange curry.
Theresa (theresa-restaurant.com) is another twinoption eatery. There’s a trendy grill, serving the likes of succulent cutlets, chops and rib-eye. For those looking for something lighter, a plush, softly lit bar and restaurant features a flavourful sharing menu offering dishes such as smoked salmon tartare with beet mayo. Street food is the star at Viktualienmarkt (viktualienmarkt-muenchen.de), a 200-year-old market with more than 100 stalls selling flowers, fresh produce and every type of Bavarian cheese under the sun. Local specialities such as Weisswurst, served with sweet mustard and hot pretzels, go down well with a chilled glass of Pilsner and a side of people-watching.
No trip to Munich would be properly satiated without a traditional Bavarian meal. Spatenhaus an der Oper (kuffler.de) is a classic Bavarian eatery near the opera house with a dual personality. The first floor stuns with lavish rooms covered in mouldings and beautiful paintings; the ground floor is a comfortable but pared-back space that serves as a non-distracting background for the menu, which includes the original butter-fried Kuffler wiener schnitzel and a Bavarian platter heaped with duck, pork knuckle, grilled sausage, red cabbage, sauerkraut, bread dumplings and gravy. For an authentic beer garden experience, head to Augustiner-Keller (augustinerkeller.de). A local institution, its bartenders have been pouring ales from the city’s oldest brewery, Augustiner, since 1812. The relaxed garden fits 5,000 bon vivants under its huge chestnut trees and, on chilly days, customers can down a 1L stein – the only size drinks are available in – in the glorious vaulted cellar, where the beer is stored, before being served from massive wooden barrels. Robust dishes, such as beer goulash with root vegetables and pretzel dumplings, best paired with Munich classic Augustiner Helles, are served at communal tables, making the experience even better, as strangers become friends.
If cocktails are more your speed, Die Goldene Bar (goldenebar.de) is for you. It’s located in the compelling Haus der Kunst museum, which once served as the “House of German Art” for Nazi propaganda, and now showcases contemporary international works. The gold-tinged room features original maps from 1937 depicting the origins of various wines, spirits and tobaccos. The extensive cocktail menu delights with surprising flavour combinations including the “Ostap Bender”, which mixes sherry with cold-drip coffee and bitters. Spot the cool crowd on the summer terrace, here to mingle among its marble columns, sundowners in hand. For an international affair, check out Schumann’s (schumanns.de). The American-style bar was established in 1982 by the legendary barman Charles Schumann, who got his start at Munich’s Harry’s New York Bar (now known as Pusser’s). The elegantly appointed main bar morphs from restaurant to saloon at the stroke of midnight, serving finely
MÜNCHEN TOURISMUS, BJARNE GEIGES
“Surfers can ride the Eisbach standing wave, which operates year-round”
concocted cocktails, while Camparino, next door, is an “extra bar”, ideal for a chilled glass of wine in a secluded area. In the first-floor Fleurs du Mal, guests sit around a 9m-long table crafted from a single tree and discuss their drink of choice with the bartender, “just like at a bespoke tailor”, according to Schumann, who still works there.
CULTURAL CACHÉ
Marienplatz is the city’s beating heart, with many streets veering off it like tourist-clogged arteries. But the area is popular for good reason, being home to many of Munich’s famed historic sites. Added in 1908 to the New Town Hall, which stands as an excellent example of neo-gothic architecture, the Glockenspiel is a large mechanical clock that twice a day re-enacts two scenes from the city’s history: a jousting tournament celebrating the marriage of a duke, and Schäfflertanz, a dance performed by the cooper’s guild to celebrate the end of the plague in 1517.
Once the seat of Bavarian monarchs, the Residenz (residenz-muenchen.de) is the largest urban palace in Germany. Opulent rooms, sprawling courtyards and grand halls hung with priceless art reflect the power of the Wittelsbach dynasty, who called it home for more than 400 years. Now a museum, the building also houses the
Cuvilliés Theatre, a rococo-style venue that has been used for performances since 1753.
Opera and ballet enthusiasts can attend performances by the Bavarian State Opera and Bavarian State Ballet at the fabulous National Theatre (staatsoper.de). Built in 1818 and then rebuilt after World War II, its stage was the setting for the premier of famous Wagner operas such as Tristan und Isolde, and continues to showcase both classic and contemporary productions to this day.
Nymphenburg Palace (schloss-nymphenburg.de), meanwhile, served as the Wittelsbach family’s baroque summer residence. Spread across 200 hectares, its opulent interiors and vast gardens were the height of 17th- and 18thcentury royal glamour. It houses the Gallery of Beauties –containing portraits that were commissioned by King Ludwig I of Bavaria of 36 women from all social classes, including commoners, chosen for their ravishing looks. One of the most famous portraits is of Lola Montez, the king’s scandalous mistress, who eventually caused him to abdicate his throne.
The 1836-built Alte Pinakothek (pinakothek.de) is one of the oldest art galleries in the world. Its staggering collection includes Madonna of the Carnation, one of the earliest works by Leonardo da Vinci, and SelfPortrait by Albrecht Dürer, which is considered one of
Western art’s most iconic self-portraits because Dürer presents himself in a Christ-like pose. Then, there’s the mighty Museum Brandhorst (museum-brandhorst.de)
A stellar contemporary art museum, it’s home to the largest collection of Andy Warhol works in Europe, as well as pieces by Cy Twombly, Jeff Koons and contemporary German master Gerhard Richter. For petrolheads, there’s the BMW Museum (bmw-welt.com), which serves up interactive exhibits and rotating car displays that showcase the marque’s evolution of design and engineering over the years. One of the more notable displays is the BMW Isetta, a miniscule bubble car and something of a novelty, in that it opens from the front.
One of Munich’s most beloved and enduring spaces, opened in 1792, is the English Garden (muenchen.de) Designed by an American-born Brit who served in the Bavarian court, the 375-hectare green space is one of the largest urban parks in the world. Paths wind alongside wildflower-strewn meadows and dense thickets that abut lakes and even pass along a river. (On which surfers can ride the Eisbach standing wave year-round.) Beer gardens dot the park. The most popular one is the Chinese Tower, where visitors linger in a shaded setting enjoying traditional Bavarian music, food and steins of beer. Because, even as Munich changes, some things happily stay the same.
POSTCARDS FROM MUNICH Clockwise from top left: the National Theatre; Nymphenburg Palace; the Eisbach standing wave; Museum Brandhorst; the English Garden
MÜNCHEN
TOURISMUS, W. HOESL
HAUTE PROPERTIES
Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski Munich (kempinski.com), a five-star property since 1858, stands regally on Maximilianstrasse – Munich’s premier boulevard, with all of its high-end boutiques, art houses and sophisticated cafés. The hotel, originally opened by August Schimon, has hosted royalty, statesmen and luminaries including Queen Elizabeth II and Winston Churchill. There are 296 sumptuous rooms and suites, each swathed in warm, muted tones, some offering sweeping views of the majestic Bavarian State Opera. For fitness fans, the Kempinski Fit Rooms allow private in-room workouts using Technogym bikes, while the full wellness area has a heated indoor pool, sauna, steam room and gym. The spa is one of the city’s finest.
Gastronomes will relish the Schwarzreiter restaurant, which is led by chef Franz-Josef Unterlechner, while the more casual, all-day Schwarzreiter Tagesbar offers regional dishes in a relaxed setting. Guests can look forward to gourmet brunches and the signature beef tartare, which is prepared tableside. The lobby, meanwhile, with its stained-glass ceiling and plush seating, is the place to unwind over cocktails as you watch the world glide by. Further indulgences await at the Jahreszeiten Bar, the Cigar Lounge and the genteel Jahreszeiten Lobby. Put it all together and it adds up to being one of Germany’s most beloved luxury addresses.
URBAN EYRIES
Left: Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
Kempinski is one of the city’s best-loved five-star retreats
Below: NH Collection
München Bavaria offers guests bird’seye skyline views
Hotel NH Collection München Bavaria (nh-collection.com) is another top choice, perched in the first skyscraper in Munich, which opened in 1920 and was extended to 16 floors in the 1960s. Centrally located a short distance from many of the city’s sights, including Marienplatz and Augustiner-Keller, it offers easy access to excellent transport links, including the train station. Dark wood touches add warmth to an otherwise sleek, minimalist decor in the 219 rooms, which being set in one of the tallest buildings in the city, afford sweeping views of the Munich skyline. The colourful Arnulf’s restaurant specialises in alpine fare, all the more fitting given its high roost, and there’s the option to dine al fresco on the terrace, which ensures a delicious meal paired with a sumptuous view.
“The lobby, with its stained-glass ceiling and plush seating, is the place to unwind over cocktails as you watch the world glide by”
BUILT TO ROAM
Toyota’s go-anywhere icon is back with retro styling, serious specs and near-indestructible engineering. Adam Hay Nicholls heads off-road
There’s a saying among drivers experienced in steep gradients, sand dunes, rutted tundra and muddy valleys: if you want to drive into the bush, take a Land Rover; if you want to drive out of the bush, take a Land Cruiser.
Toyota’s first Land Cruiser was born in 1951, three years after the first Land Rover and 10 years after the first Jeep. The Japanese set out to build a utility vehicle that was more durable and refined than their British and US counterparts, and they succeeded. Recent generations have strayed into luxury SUV territory, but, with the latest J250 model you see here, Toyota has taken the Land Cruiser back to its workhorse roots and Tonka-toy looks.
The First Edition, which Ultratravel has driven, is the one to go for: a limited edition with cute, round headlamps and bold, two-tone paint for a retro look that commands a premium on the not-inconsiderable list price. Good luck getting your hands on this, or on the ever so slightly less desirable square-headlight iteration, because each UK Toyota dealership is being given a grand total of two cars per year. They’re like hen’s teeth.
Why are so few cars coming to Britain? Because it isn’t really the market for this vehicle. The main markets are Africa, Asia, the Middle East, Australia and the extremes of the Americas: landscapes that’ll challenge its off-road capability. Places where you really need the technology, which includes crawl control, low range, diff locks and anti-roll bars that will disconnect at the touch of a button. These are rarely used on a trip to the Lake District, let’s be honest, and they’re of no use in Fulham. Nevertheless, I imagined that beyond my Land Cruiser’s bonnet, there lay not the M11, but herds of wildebeest and an erupting Krakatoa.
One sits very high, for this car is taller than the average man, at 1.87m. And unlike almost every other car on our roads – made from stiff all-in-one monocoques – this has a separate chassis and a live rear axle to help it climb over stuff. Instead of air suspension, it uses coil springs, because coil springs are indestructible. These things make it slightly wallowy on the road – you might feel as if you’re crossing a river rather than a roundabout – but while you can’t corner like you can in a new Land Rover Defender, the ride is exceptionally comfortable. There’s lots of interior space and clear thought has gone into the design. Dakar Rally engineers were consulted on the cockpit ergonomics and the results mean you won’t accidentally press the wrong switch while lurching over boulders.
“These machines are built for oil exploration and diamond mining”
Wrangler, Mercedes G-Class and Ineos Grenadier. Some better news: a petrol-hybrid version is expected to reach the UK by early next year.
In terms of ethos, the Grenadier is its closest competition. You’d be mad to buy either car unless you regularly plan to use it seriously off-road. The boggy track down to your holiday cottage in Devon doesn’t cut it, I’m afraid. These machines are built for oil exploration, diamond mining and the World Food Programme. However, despite feeling loose compared with the beefy Merc and Defender, the Land Cruiser is considerably more planted and self-assured on the road than Sir Jim Ratcliffe’s invention. I’d also put far more faith in it were one to find oneself in an isolated and inhospitable situation. Syrian insurgents, take note.
The Toyota Land Cruiser has been designed to outlive us all. My advice, when we have a nuclear Armageddon, is to make sure you’ve got one sitting in your driveway – and take shelter in it (toyota.com)
Seven seats come as standard and it can confidently tow up to 3.5 tonnes, which is terrific for large families who own horses and a caravan. But here’s the downside: in the UK, there’s no choice of powerplant. You’re stuck with a fourcylinder 2.8 turbo diesel that feels, and sounds, like it dates back to the original Land Cruiser – the one that was in the Korean War. It can only cough up 201bhp, which, if you were to tow the maximum weight, would account for just 33bhp per tonne. Glaciers have reached 60mph faster. It’s nowhere near as smooth, torquey or quick as the engines that are offered by the Land Cruiser’s rivals – the Defender 110, Jeep
TRAILBLAZER
Where the tarmac ends, the adventure begins: the J250 charges into the wilderness with purpose – and makes it look easy
POWER STANCE
Left: we have Dakar Rally engineers to thank for the J250’s user-friendly cockpit
