Handwoven Loom Theory: Rigid-Heddle Scarf Collection 2019

Yarn photo

HANDWOVEN

LOOM THEORY rigid-heddle scarf collection 2019

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CONTENTS LOOM THEORY 2019

• volume I

05 A Letter from the Editor

by Susan E. Horton

THE COLLECTION 06 STEPPING OUT Susan Bateman & Melissa Parsons 12 3/4 TIME Angela K. Schneider 18 FIBONACCI FLOW Peg MacMorris 24 DIAMONDS & RUST Rachel Simmons 30 RAMBLING ROSEPATH Tammy Bast 36 COLOR CRUSH Deborah Jarchow 42 SANGRIA SUNSET Judy Pagels

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR I love the modern story of the rigid-heddle loom. It’s not a new loom by any means, but in the last few years, the rigid-heddle loom’s popularity has grown by leaps and bounds and with it our collective understanding of its capabilities. Plain weave is always beautiful and is the basis of all weaving, including rigid-heddle weaving, yet with a little bit of planning and clever hand manipulation of warp and weft, PHOTO BY GEORGE BOE you can create works of woven art on a rigid-heddle loom.

No one would ever guess they were done on a loom that many believe to be a simple loom for simple weaving.

For Loom Theory: Rigid-Heddle Scarf Collection 2019, we paired some of our favorite designers with yarns that matched their weaving styles and asked each of them to design a wonderful scarf. The yarns they used were already wonderful: naturally dyed cottons, fashionable designer yarns, lovely wool, dreamy natural silks, sparkly creations, and soft, hand-dyed yarns. Scrolling through this lookbook, I think you will agree that the scarves designed and woven with these luscious and unique yarns form a collection like no other.

You can purchase the pattern collection while browsing the lookbook—clicking the “Purchase Now” button on every design-information page directs you to our store page where you can download the entire collection of patterns in a bundle.

The beautiful yarns in this lookbook are courtesy of Yarn Barn of Kansas, Vävstuga, Treenway Silks, Lunatic Fringe Yarns, Jagger Spun, Trendsetter Yarns, and Fairmount Fibers.

The designers are Susan Bateman and Melissa Parsons, Angela K. Schneider, Peg MacMorris, Rachel Simmons, Tammy Bast, Deborah Jarchow, and Judy Pagels.

Please enjoy Loom Theory: Rigid-Heddle Scarf Collection 2019, a collection like no other.

Weave well, Projects and information are for inspiration and p ­ ersonal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email handwoven@interweave.com. Handwoven does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, p ­ roducts, services, or views advertised in Handwoven. Nor does Handwoven evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in e ­ valu­ating the advertisers, products, services, and views a ­ dvertised in Handwoven.

For advertising information, call Stephanie Griess at (877) 613-4630 or email sales@fwmedia.com.

For editorial inquiries, call (866) 949-1646, email handwoven@interweave.com, or write to 4868 Innovation Dr., Fort Collins, CO 80525-5576.

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STEPPING OUT SUSAN BATEMAN & MELISSA PARSONS

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yarnbarn-ks.com 10

Yarn photo YARN BARN OF KANSAS If you are looking for a wide selection of yarns for weaving, the Yarn Barn of Kansas has you covered. Its selection spans the range of everyday to extraordinary luxury yarns. Blue Heron Rayon Metallic is pure luxury. This handpainted yarn has the shimmering, silky smoothness you’d expect from rayon with just a hint of glitter.

Berroco Summer Silk is another spectacular yarn you’ll find at Yarn Barn of Kansas. This yarn is a beautiful blend of silk and cotton with a little nylon thrown in to give it a bit of elasticity. Summer Silk’s chainette construction makes it lighter than it appears. Use it for weaving springy scarves and shawls that will give you just enough warmth without weighing you down.

Shown here: Summer Silk (Picnic, Madras, and Pier) and Rayon Metallic (Water Hyacinth)

STEPPING OUT SUSAN BATEMAN & MELISSA PARSONS While planning this scarf, we considered clasped weft but instead chose a tapestry technique in which the wefts meet but don’t clasp. For the background warp and weft, we chose Metallic Rayon, a handpainted yarn in a subtle colorway with enough metallic shine to give the scarf a little bling. To contrast with the soft background, we used Summer Silk in three solid colors for the tapestry steps.

SUMMER SILK

FIBER: 45% silk/43% cotton/12% nylon YARDAGE: 240 yd per 1.75 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 8 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 16 COLORWAYS: 31 RAYON METALLIC

FIBER: 85% rayon/15% metallic YARDAGE: 550 yd per 8 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 12–15 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 18 COLORWAYS: 24

STRUCTURE Plain weave with slit tapestry technique.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 12- or 12.5dent heddle; 4 stick shuttles.

YARNS Rayon Metallic (85% rayon/ 15% metallic; 1,100 yd/lb; Blue Heron; Yarn Barn of Kansas). Summer Silk (45% silk/43% cotton/12% nylon; 2,195 yd/lb; Berroco; Yarn Barn of Kansas).

FINISHED SIZE 8½" x 72" with 4½" fringe.

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3/4 TIME ANGELA K. SCHNEIDER

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Yarn photo VÄVSTUGA Borgs Tuna is a Swedish 6/2 wool yarn with a soft twist, making it perfect for cozy scarves, shawls, blankets, and blanket shawls. Tuna is a delight to weave and fulls up beautifully to create warm fabrics with just the right amount of fluff. We love that Tuna comes in all the classic Swedish colorways as well as more modern selections so you can use it to weave a piece that’s truly traditional or thoroughly contemporary.

3/4 TIME ANGELA K. SCHNEIDER One of the joys of weaving is following the threads to see what they want to do. I started

Tightly wound Bockens Möbelåtta is the perfect foil to the Tuna. Möbelåtta’s tight twist and sheen contrast beautifully with a lofty wool such as Tuna. Use it as an accent yarn in scarves or shawls or on its own when weaving jackets, bags, and upholstery.

with a simple color-and-weave design using

Shown here: Tuna 6/2 (#3095 Light Sea Green) and Möbelåtta 8/2 (#3825 Pine)

and-weave effect on the ends. I think of this scarf

TUNA 6/2

FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 339 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 10 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 12 COLORWAYS: 108 MÖBELÅTTA 8/2

FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 437 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 12 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 18 COLORWAYS: 29

two wool yarns from Vävstuga in two shades of green, then I added pairs of opposing leno twists to create an open mesh and a new coloras a tune that changes time signatures: a slow march in 4-beat time, a smooth central waltz in 3 beats, and finally, a return to a 4-beat rhythm.

STRUCTURE Color-and-weave with leno.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 8" weaving width; 10-dent heddle; 2 shuttles; pick-up stick; 3-clip fringe twister (optional).

YARNS Tuna 6/2 (100% wool; 1,538 yd/lb; Borgs; Vävstuga). Möbelåtta 8/2 (100% wool; 1,984 yd/lb; Bockens; Vävstuga).

FINISHED SIZE 7¼" x 68" with 5½" fringe.

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FIBONACCI FLOW PEG MacMORRIS

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Silk Scarf Kits for your Rigid Heddle Loom

“Big Plaid” Silk Scarf Kit – Woven by Joy Jensen (left) and Designed and Woven Peg MacMorris (right)

“Light & Dark Fibonacci Stripes” – Silk 2-Scarves Kit Designed and Woven by Peg MacMorris

“Ribbed Stripes” Silk Scarf Kit Designed and Woven by Peg MacMorris (right & middle) and Woven by Joy Jensen (left)

MORE COLORS

available online Call toll-free 1.888.383.silk (7455)

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Yarn photo TREENWAY SILKS Sumptuous silks are always in season. The only question is which silk to use. Treenway Silks has a wide variety of silks and silk blends to choose from. If you’re looking for something traditional for rigid-heddle weaving, the Jorie II and Margaret yarns are excellent choices. These cabled silks are thicker than your average silk yarn without being too heavy. They’re available in natural white and can be dyed in any of Treenway’s 140-plus colorways. If you want something even more unique, Carmela fits the bill.

Carmela is 100% wild muga silk. Once reserved for royalty, muga silk has a natural golden color and a wonderful crisp texture. Carmela weaves up beautifully by itself or paired with bombyx silk yarns.

Shown here: Jorie II, Margaret, and Carmela (all three undyed) JORIE II

FIBER: 100% bombyx silk YARDAGE: 195 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 10 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 16 COLORWAYS: Over 140 MARGARET

FIBER: 100% bombyx silk YARDAGE: 375 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 12 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 16 COLORWAYS: Over 140 CARMELA

FIBER: 100% muga silk YARDAGE: 725 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 18 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 22 COLORWAYS: Over 140

FIBONACCI FLOW PEG MacMORRIS In medieval Italy lived Leonardo, the son of Bonacci. He was a mathematician who created a formula to predict the reproduction rate of rabbits. Today we know these numbers as the Fibonacci series. I used undyed natural silks with different textures and colors and arranged stripes according to the Fibonacci series to create a scarf with a classic—and calming—design.

STRUCTURE Plain weave.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent heddle; 4 stick shuttles.

YARNS Carmela (100% muga silk; 3,400 yd/lb; Treenway Silks).

Jorie II (100% bombyx silk;

950 yd/lb). Margaret (100% bombyx silk; 2,450 yd/lb).

Alirio Thicker (100% bombyx silk noil; 2,250 yd/lb). Glasera (100% bombyx reeled silk; 1,635 yd/lb). All yarns by Treenway Silks.

FINISHED SIZE 7¾" x 63" with 5" fringe.

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DIAMONDS & RUST RACHEL SIMMONS

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Yarn photo LUNATIC FRINGE YARNS There was a time when, as a matter of course, cotton grew in many different colors beyond the whites we know today. It grew in shades of beautiful browns and gorgeous greens.

These shades were almost lost to time when the easier-to-dye white cotton took over.

Fortunately for weavers today, the colorful cottons of old are again available in Lunatic Fringe Yarns’ line of American Maid Naturally Colored Yarn. Every color in this unique line is achieved without dyes. Even better, the yarns are all sustainably grown in the United States and minimally processed before heading to your loom. American Maid yarns are available in a variety of weights and put-ups, making them perfect for every project, including lightweight summer scarves, beautiful baby blankets, and thirsty kitchen towels.

Shown here: Dark Green, Dark Brown, and Natural 10/2 AMERICAN MAID NATURALLY COLORED YARN

FIBER: 100% cotton YARDAGE: 400 yd per 1.5 oz mini cone; 1,050 yd per 4 oz cone; 2,100 yd per 8 oz cone; 4,200 yd per 1 lb cone RECOMMENDED SETT: 12 epi (used double) WRAPS PER INCH: 30 COLORWAYS: 6

DIAMONDS & RUST RACHEL SIMMONS The idea of sustainability appeals to me not just as a fiber artist, but also in my everyday life.

I wanted to honor Lunatic Fringe Yarns’ unique undyed cotton and its surprising natural range of color. With that thought, I created a scarf with a mix of freeform and structured weaving to evoke an earthy feeling of growth for both nature and humans. The fabric woven from this cotton is soft and light, perfect for a cool spring day before the heat of summer takes hold.

STRUCTURE Clasped weft with overshot.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 17" weaving width; 12.5-dent heddle or 12-dent heddle; 1 stick shuttle; 1 pick-up stick.

YARNS 10/2 American Maid Naturally Colored Yarn (100% cotton; 4,200 yd/lb; Lunatic Fringe​ Yarns).

FINISHED SIZE 14¼" x 67½" with 4½" fringe.

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RAMBLING ROSEPATH www.jaggeryarn.com Springvale, Maine USA

TAMMY BAST

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Mousam Falls — Superwash Wool 4/6, 4/14 and limited colors in 2/24 available.

Springvale, Maine USA

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Yarn photo JAGGER SPUN Weavers love Jagger Spun, and it’s easy to understand why. Jagger Spun’s line of Kokadjo yarns are sumptuously soft with a beautiful sheen that can only come from silk.

The silk also adds to the durability of the Kokadjo, which when combined with superwash wool creates a yarn you can weave, wear, and wash without worry. Kokadjo comes in a line of vibrant colorways that includes both solid and multicolored options so you can create cloth that’s subtle and sophisticated or vibrant and full of drama. The options are endless!

Shown here: Lake, Spring Fling, and Canary KOKADJO

FIBER: 90% superwash wool/10% silk YARDAGE: 218 yd per 1.75 oz skein; 435 yd per 3.5 oz skein.

RECOMMENDED SETT: 10 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 14 COLORWAYS: 22

RAMBLING ROSEPATH TAMMY BAST It’s a joy to design a project with high quality yarn such as those offered by Jagger Spun.

I love color, so the Kokadjo, a merino and silk blend, really called out to me. When the yarn arrived and I felt its softness, I knew I needed to design a scarf that would highlight not just the colors but also the yarn’s incredible plush feel.

The floats in rosepath twill keep the sumptuous texture, and stripes at the ends of the scarf create a gorgeous color gamp.

STRUCTURE Twill.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 16" weaving width; two 10-dent heddles; 4 shuttles.

YARNS Kokadjo (90% superwash wool/10% silk; 1,960 yd/lb; Jagger Spun).

FINISHED SIZE 12"x 62" with 3½" fringe.

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COLOR CRUSH DEBORAH JARCHOW

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Yarn photo TRENDSETTER YARNS If you want to weave a statement piece, you need to choose a statement yarn. Trendsetter Yarns has distinctive yarns that may be perfect for your next project. Autumn Wind Print combines everything you love about cotton yarn with a hint of soft cashmere in beautiful hand-dyed colorways. CinCin is a fabulous yarn that combines multiple textures and colors for a slubby, sometimes zigzag effect. For a more subtle but no less stunning look, Icon has you covered. This unique yarn is soft and a bit hazy with just a hint of shimmer thanks to sequins that are spun into the yarn.

Shown here: CinCin (Mozambique, upper left), Autumn Wind Print (Amazon Jungle, right), and Icon (Mocha, bottom left) CINCIN

FIBER: 50% viscose/25% cotton/20% acrylic/5% poly YARDAGE: 80 yd per 1.75 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 8 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 16 COLORWAYS: 21 AUTUMN WIND PRINT

FIBER: 90% cotton/10% cashmere YARDAGE: 175 yd per 1.75 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 8 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 16 COLORWAYS: 24 ICON

FIBER: 36% alpaca/35% polyamide/15% silk/14% cotton YARDAGE: 165 yd per 1.75 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 8 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 13 COLORWAYS: 11

COLOR CRUSH DEBORAH JARCHOW Trendsetter Yarns is known for its wide range of yarns, including some unconventional yarns that are both fun and fashionable. For this project, I decided to experiment with honeycomb to showcase yarns with different sizes and textures. It was exciting to weave with a wide variety of yarns and end up with a dramatic and fun-to-weave scarf!

STRUCTURE Plain weave and honeycomb.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 7.5- or 8-dent heddle; 2 stick shuttles; 2 boat shuttles; 2 bobbins; 2 pick-up sticks.

YARNS Autumn Wind Print (90% cotton/10% cashmere;

1,588 yd/lb). CinCin (50% viscose/25% cotton/20% acrylic/5% poly; 726 yd/lb).

Icon (36% alpaca/35% polyamide/15% silk/14% cotton; 1,496 yd/lb). Zucca (58% nylon/42% polyamide; 653 yd/lb). Me (100% superwash merino; 685 yd/lb). All yarns by Trendsetter Yarns.

FINISHED SIZE 7" x 66" with 4½" fringe.

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SANGRIA SUNSET JUDY PAGELS

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laceweight 874 yds / 100g 100% superwash merino 32 hand-dyed colors

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Yarn photo MANOS DEL URUGUAY, DISTRIBUTED BY FAIRMOUNT FIBERS Manos del Uruguay is known for its beautiful handspun and hand-dyed yarns made in rural Uruguay by talented artisans who are paid fair-trade wages for their work. The Fino line is a luxurious blend of merino and silk that showcases the talents of the Uruguayan dyers who use a special process to get delicate shifts in color that will give your weaving subtle visual interest.

The Marina yarn is equally soft—it’s 100% merino superwash wool—but offers more immediate visual impact with its dazzling collection of space-dyed colorways. Use this yarn by itself to give your cloth extra drama, or combine it with the Fino to create a weaving that’s equal parts subtle and striking.

Shown here: Marina (Cincuenta and Vesuvio)

SANGRIA SUNSET JUDY PAGELS The colors of Manos del Uruguay’s yarns make me want to climb inside of them. To satisfy that desire, I decided to use some of my favorite colors in a kerchief-style scarf with fringe along one edge. The luscious quality of the yarn calls for a simple weave structure with random plainweave stripes. This combination of color, yarn, and design creates a casual yet elegant piece.

FINO

FIBER: 70% extrafine merino wool/30% silk YARDAGE: 450 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 12 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 24 COLORWAYS: 40 MARINA

FIBER: 100% merino superwash wool YARDAGE: 874 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETT: 15 epi WRAPS PER INCH: 28 COLORWAYS: 31

STRUCTURE Plain weave with weft fringe.

EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 11" weaving width; 12-dent heddle; 3 shuttles.

YARNS Fino (70% extrafine merino wool/30% silk; 2,041 yd/lb)

Marina (100% merino superwash wool; 3,964 yd/lb) Both yarns by Manos del Uruguay, distributed by Fairmount Fibers.

FINISHED SIZE 6" x 70" with 3" fringe (6" x 32" loop).

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THANK YOU for browsing this issue of LOOM THEORY. If you enjoyed this lookbook, you can purchase the entire pattern collection HERE. You can also click the Purchase Now button on every design information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the collection.

EDITORIAL GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, YARN & FIBER Anne Merrow EDITOR Susan E. Horton ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christina Garton MANAGING EDITOR Laura Hulslander TECHNICAL EDITORS Rona Aspholm, Deanna Deeds, Anita Osterhaug, Angela K. Schneider,

FOUNDER Linda Ligon DIRECTOR OF CONTENT, CRAFT Tiffany Warble DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES Julie Macdonald DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Kim Greenlee

Bettie Zakon-Anderson COPY EDITOR Katie Bright PROOFREADER Rachel Koon WEB PRODUCER Tamara Schmiege SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Andrea Lotz CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Gregory J. Osberg

CREATIVE

S.V.P., GENERAL MANAGER—F+W CRAFTS GROUP

GROUP ART DIRECTOR, CRAFT Emily Simpson

David Pyle

ART DIRECTOR Kit Kinseth

MANAGING DIRECTOR, F+W INTERNATIONAL

PRODUCTION DESIGNER Mark Dobroth

James Woollam

PHOTOGRAPHY Caleb Young (Good Folk Photography)

V.P., CONSUMER MARKETING John Phelan

PHOTOSTYLING Ann Sabin Swanson

V.P., PRODUCT MANAGEMENT Pat Fitzgerald

HAIR & MAKEUP Beauty on Location

MARKETING/SALES ADVERTISING MANAGER Stephanie Griess AD TRAFFICKER Cari Ullom SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Jessi Rodriguez

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