Handwoven Loom Theory: Four-Shaft Scarf Collection 2019

Yarn photo

HANDWOVEN

LOOM THEORY four-shaft scarf collection 2019

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CONTENTS LOOM THEORY 2019

• volume II

05 A Letter from the Editor Susan E. Horton

THE COLLECTION 06 SILKEN SPLENDOR Deanna Deeds 12 VERTICAL MOTION Nancy Dunlap 18 DAPPLED LINEN Suzie Liles 24 GRELLOW AND YAY Elisabeth Hill 30 SKIPPING ROCKS Cynthia Newman

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR As a weaver, I keep waiting to run out of ideas. Perhaps after weaving for 25 years, with more potential project concepts running around in my head than ever, I should stop anticipating that idea vacuum—it doesn’t appear that it will ever arrive. The weaving and fiber community continues to inspire me with its ingenuity and inventiveness. I marvel at the many modern weavers who are designing new and exciting drafts PHOTO BY GEORGE BOE with delightful color combinations, and the yarn companies that continue to develop beautiful and intriguing yarn and color lines.

Although I weave on all types of looms, four-shaft weaving always impresses me.

The drafts may be less complex than eight-shaft drafts, but there is a quiet simplicity to them that only needs the right yarn and colors to make them wonderful.

Loom Theory: Four-Shaft Scarf Collection 2019 is a collection of scarves woven using interesting drafts and special yarns. There is not a scarf in this lookbook that I wouldn’t want to weave and wear.

You can purchase the pattern collection while browsing the lookbook—clicking the “Purchase Now” button on any design-information page directs you to our store page where you can download the entire collection of patterns in a bundle.

Included with the download are WIFs that show every warp end and at least one repeat of the treadling pattern. You can use almost any weaving software to open and use the WIFs. The beautiful yarns in this lookbook are courtesy of Treenway Silks, Vävstuga, Glimåkra USA, Jagger Spun, and Lunatic Fringe Yarns.

The designers are Deanna Deeds, Nancy Dunlap, Suzie Liles, Elisabeth Hill, and Cynthia Newman.

I hope you enjoy Loom Theory: Four-Shaft Scarf Collection 2019. It is four-shaft weaving at its best.

Weave well,

Projects and information are for inspiration and p ­ ersonal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please email handwoven@longthreadmedia.com.

Handwoven does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, p ­ roducts, services, or views advertised in Handwoven. Nor does Handwoven evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in e ­ valu­ating the advertisers, products, services, and views ­advertised in Handwoven.

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SILKEN SPLENDOR DEANNA DEEDS

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Zola & Carmela silk yarns, designed and woven by Betsy Blumenthal

Your silk experts

All photography by Thomas Harrop

and hand-dyeing specialists since 1977, TreenwaySilks.com more than 30 different undyed silk yarns.

Any Yarn/Any Color: Any of Treenway Silks’ yarns can be hand-dyed any of our 140 colors.

The ultimate customization!

Alirio-Thinner & Gekko silk yarns, designed by Susan Du Bois, woven by Sandra Hutton

In a hurry? Look for Color Now! skeins. Our most popular silk yarns in your favorite colors are handdyed and ready mail today.

Selection changes daily.

Forever in Silk

“Alirio-Thinner & Taiyo yarns, designed

by Susan Du Bois, woven by Sandra Hutton”

www.treenwaysilks.com Call toll-free at

1.888.383.silk (7455) Kiku silk yarn in natural-dye colors, designed by Susan Du Bois, woven by Betsy Blumenthal

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Lakewood, CO • USA

Silken Ankara & Taiyo silk yarns, woven by Eunice York

Yarn photo TREENWAY SILKS Silk is always in season; the only question is which silk to use. With Treenway Silks’ extensive line of silk and silk blends, you can find the perfect yarn for your project and pick the perfect palette from more than 140 colors.

Alirio Thinner silk noil yarn, for example, is ideal for weaving cloth with a crisp, matte appearance with just a hint of texture. Use it to weave scarves, shawls, clothing yardage, and anything else that requires the extra elegance you can only get from silk.

Shown here: Peach, Intrepid, Rendezvous Blue, Smoky Topaz ALIRIO THINNER

FIBER: 100% silk noil YARDAGE: 990 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–20 epi; plain weave–22 epi; twill–24 epi COLORWAYS: over 140

SILKEN SPLENDOR DEANNA DEEDS Shadowy circles divide into eight-petaled flowers in this scarf woven in silk noil. Shadow weave, especially four-shaft shadow weave, is an inherently textural structure. The 20/2 silk noil has a matte finish for a more casual style, and the woven cloth has a wonderful drape, especially after wet-finishing and light pressing. This is a scarf that works perfectly with a fancy dress and also with time-worn denim, for a mix of casual and dressy.

STRUCTURE Shadow weave.

YARNS Alirio Thinner (100% silk noil; 4,500 yd/lb; Treenway Silks).

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins.

OTHER SUPPLIES Synthrapol textile detergent (optional).

WOVEN LENGTH 9½" x 66" with 4" fringe.

PURCHASE NOW

WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD

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VERTICAL MOTION NANCY DUNLAP

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Yarn photo VÄVSTUGA Borgs Mora is a worsted 20/2 wool that is soft to the touch. Spun from long-staple wool, Mora is extra strong, making it a perfect candidate for both warp and weft. It finishes without fulling, so you can wet-finish your beautiful lightweight scarves without worrying about them becoming felt. Use it by itself to create a soft and stunning piece or combine it with a wool that felts and weave a piece with one-of-a-kind texture.

Shown here: Salmon, Goldenrod, Teal, Royal Blue MORA

FIBER: 100% wool YARDAGE: 1,039 yd per 3.5 oz skein RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–16 epi; plain weave–20 epi; twill–24 epi COLORWAYS: 74

VERTICAL MOTION NANCY DUNLAP When I started sampling with 20/2 Mora wool yarn, it didn’t take long for me to see that although thin, it has the strength to be used in both warp and weft. After this realization, I decided that a twill combination would best demonstrate its versatility. By combining different-sized bird’seye threading and treadling with a straight draw, I was able to weave a scarf with a complex look using only four shafts. The color scheme gives the scarf some iridescent effects: depending on the light, the colors seem to shift.

STRUCTURE Twill.

YARNS 20/2 Mora (100% wool; 4,712 yd/lb; Borgs; Vävstuga).

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.

WOVEN LENGTH: 7¾" x 80¾" with 6" fringe.

PURCHASE NOW

WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD

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DAPPLED LINEN SUZIE LILES

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B O C K E N S

SWEDISH YARN FOR THE MODERN WEAVER

L I N E N

DOWNLOAD 2018/2019 PRICELIST AT WWW.GLIMAKRAUSA.COM

Yarn photo GLIMÅKRA USA Bockens 16/2 linen is perfect for weaving heirloom household linens, lightweight garments, and crisp, cool scarves with a beautiful sheen that can only come from linen.

Manufactured in Sweden, a country long known for its linen yarns, Bockens 16/2 linen is made from highest-quality Swedish flax.

Because linen is naturally light, Bockens 16/2 will keep you cool when it’s warm out, making it ideal for spring and summer scarves.

Shown here: Black, Black and White Marled, White 16/2 LINEN

FIBER: 100% linen YARDAGE: 700 yd per 4.4 oz spool; 1,400 yd per 8.8 oz spool RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–15 epi; plain weave–20 epi; twill–30 epi COLORWAYS: 70

DAPPLED LINEN SUZIE LILES Sometimes you need to weave with an unusual yarn to find out how it looks in cloth. That was the case with the black and white marled yarn I used in this scarf, and I was not disappointed. For a classic and elegant look, I kept my palette simple, using only black and white. The uniform barber-pole twist of the two colors creates its own patterning in plain weave and twill, and the result looks both delicate and complex.

STRUCTURE Twill and plain weave.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 11" width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 3 bobbins.

YARNS 16/2 Linen (2,509 yd/lb; Bockens; Eugene Textile Center).

OTHER SUPPLIES Warping sticks or heavy paper.

FINISHED SIZE: 9¼" x 69½ " with 5" fringe.

PURCHASE NOW

WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD

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GRELLOW AND YAY www.jaggeryarn.com Springvale, Maine USA

ELISABETH HILL

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Zephyr Wool Silk 50% Wool 50% Silk Blend Available in Lace and Worsted Weights

Springvale, Maine USA

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Yarn photo JAGGER SPUN Weavers love Jagger Spun’s line of yarns, and it’s easy to see why! The Zephyr line is a luscious blend of soft merino wool and lustrous tussah silk. Thanks to this magical combination, Zephyr is a lightweight yarn that will keep you warm without weighing you down. Use Zephyr to weave scarves, shawls, and anything else you wear against the skin. Zephyr is sumptuously soft with just a hint of shine, making it the perfect yarn for extra-special projects.

Shown here: Elderberry, Mushroom, Magenta 18/2 ZEPHYR

FIBER: 50% merino wool/50% tussah silk YARDAGE: 1,120 yd per 3.5 oz hank RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–18 epi; plain weave–22 epi; twill–24 epi COLORWAYS: 48

GRELLOW AND YAY ELISABETH HILL For this scarf, I was inspired by a jute upholstery fabric I saw in a book on Indian textiles. I wanted to use Jagger Spun Zephyr in a simple structure that optimizes its softness and color range.

The moment I saw the plump “ponytails” in the Indian fabric, I wanted to see if I could translate them into a soft, drapey scarf in the colors of New England spring: soft gray with just the faint hope of daffodils yet to emerge.

STRUCTURE Plain weave with warp floats.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 14" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.

YARNS 18/2 Zephyr (50% merino wool/50% tussah silk; 5,040 yd/lb; Jagger Spun).

WOVEN LENGTH: 10¼" x 71½" with 6½" fringe.

PURCHASE NOW

WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD

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SKIPPING ROCKS CYNTHIA NEWMAN

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Yarn photo LUNATIC FRINGE YARNS Weave a rainbow with the Tubular Spectrum line of mercerized cotton yarns from Lunatic Fringe Yarns. The Tubular Spectrum got its start after a group of weavers realized there was no way to get a cohesive set of colors to weave a color gamp out of cotton—without having to dye it themselves—so that’s exactly what they did, and Lunatic Fringe Yarns was born.

Designed around the Munsell color chart, The Tubular Spectrum originally contained 20 colors that arranged beautifully on both color wheel and color gamp. The collection later grew to include shades of gray as well as tints and tones. The result is a collection of 37 gorgeous colors that blend beautifully.

Whether you want to weave the ultimate color gamp or simply find that perfect palette for your next project, Lunatic Fringe Yarns has you covered.

Shown here: Very Dark Gray, Blue Green, Red Purple

SKIPPING ROCKS CYNTHIA NEWMAN My inspiration for this scarf came from the repeating splash pattern that forms when you skip a rock across the water. I decided to float and skip Lunatic Fringe Yarn’s Blue #5 along the surface of the warp to show as much of the blue as I could on the front of the scarf, creating a contrast of mostly black on the back. The black and dark gray basketweave border appears slightly iridescent and remains flexible and light, matching the weight of the blue warp-float center.

10/2 COTTON

FIBER: 100% cotton YARDAGE: 400 yd per 1.5 oz mini cone; 2,100 yd per 8 oz cone RECOMMENDED SETTS: lace–20 epi; plain weave–24 epi; twill–28 epi COLORWAYS: 37

STRUCTURE Summer and winter variation and basketweave.

EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin.

YARNS 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; Tubular Spectrum; Lunatic Fringe Yarns).

FINISHED SIZE 7¼" x 70" with 5" fringe.

PURCHASE NOW

WIF INCLUDED WITH DOWNLOAD

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THANK YOU for browsing this issue of LOOM THEORY. If you enjoyed this lookbook, you can purchase the entire pattern collection HERE. You can also click the Purchase Now button on every design information page to be directed to our store page, where you can download the collection. Individual WIFs for each scarf are included with the download.

EDITORIAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Anne Merrow EDITOR Susan E. Horton ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christina Garton MANAGING EDITOR Laura Hulslander TECHNICAL EDITORS Rona Aspholm, Deanna Deeds, Susan Wilson, Bettie Zakon-Anderson COPY EDITOR Katie Bright PROOFREADER Nancy Arndt

CREATIVE ART DIRECTOR Kit Kinseth PRODUCTION DESIGNER Mark Dobroth PHOTOGRAPHY Harper Point Photography PHOTOSTYLING Ann Sabin Swanson HAIR & MAKEUP Beauty on Location

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FOUNDERS Linda Ligon, Anne Merrow, John Bolton MEDIA SALES Sommer Street Associates, sales@longthreadmedia.com DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Haydn Strauss