Maryhill: History and Stories

Maryhill

02 Analysis Stage prepared by,

History and Stories

Lim Xian Ying, Nadin Mahmoud & Archie Prince Urban Design Studies Unit University of Strathclyde Glasgow

Booklet No.2

Introduction Maryhill’s origins comes from the Forth and Clyde Canal where it has begun to develop around its locks and docks where it would be dropped down to the Kelvin Valley. It was previously known as Drydock, Kelvindock or just as ‘The Dock’. But as it grew, and more land was needed for the development of the canal, the estate owner agreed to sell the ground, on the condition that the expanded village would be known by her name; Mary Hill. (Hutton, 2005) She inherited the estate from her father Hew Hill, as he had no male heir.

The first industries of Maryhill were milling, calico printing and paper making. These industries were mostly established beside River Kelvin. (Hutton, 1994.)

However, the Canal brought in new opportunities and industries to Maryhill. Where boat-making, sawmilling and iron founding started to appear. Most of the people who settled down in the estate worked as canal navigators or navvies in short.

As it grew, Maryhill became a centre for industries and military. By the end of the second World War, the factories and barracks closed.

The canal that is the start of Maryhill closed in 1963. (Hutton, 2005)

Authors Archie Prince

Advanced Architectural Design, University of Strathclyde

Nadine Tarig

Advanced Architectural Design, University of Strathclyde

Lim Xian Ying

Advanced Architectural Design, University of Strathclyde

History and Stories

Contents Introduction

01

2

Temporal Mapping

02

1755

4-5

1795

6-7

1858

8-9

1896

10-11

1914

12-13

1933

14-15

1975

16-17

1994

18-19

2019

20-21

Historical Narrative Antonine Wall

22

River Kelvin and the Mills

23

The Forth and Clyde Canal & Maryhill Docks

24

Maryhill as a Burgh

25

The Glass Industry

26

Maryhill Military Barracks

27

Queen Cross Church

28

Tower blocks in the 18th century

29

Historic Photos

30-33

Listed Buildings

34-37

Lost Landmarks

38-39

Stories

40-45

Strengths

46-47

Weaknesses

48-49

03

Appendix

Deceleration

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References

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1755 Maryhill in its early form wasn’t much to see. There were a few mills dotted along the river as well as a some farm and house on the land above the river.

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History and Stories

lamhill

Garnoch House

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Bankhead

Fig. X: 1755 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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1795 Once the canal was cut in 1790, This was pivotal in the development of Maryhill!

The land which it was cut through wasn’t worth much. Once the canal was cut there starts to be developments along the canal. It was used for manufacturing and trade and although it was slow due to delays in the completion of the canal and the kelvin aqueduct. This was where we begin to understand Maryhill today.

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Dalshome

Canal to Clyde

Kelvin Aqueduct

History and Stories

Canal to Falkirk/ Fourth

Clardbrade

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Firhill Basin

lvin

Fig. X: 1795 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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1858

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Dalshome Printworks

We can see more density around the canal as time goes on. Lots of small cottages appearing as well as a number of different industries. Printworks, paper works, iron and textile factories all in maryhill and using the canal to share there work with Scotland and beyond.

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Kelvinbridge Pape

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History and Stories

ollinal Cottage Kelvin Foundary

erworks

Dowerloom Factory (Cotton & Linen)

Chapel

EastPark

Firhill

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lvin Klevinside Cottage

Fig. X: 1858 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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1896

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Gas Work No.2 (Glasgow Corporation)

Kelvinside mill

The development of the train in maryhill is pivotal to its historic development.

The Gas works to the north of maryhill relied on the train network. The maryhill barracks can be seen in this timestamp, the original Maryhill train station is located next to the barracks.

Dawsholm Statio

Gla

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History and Stories

Glasgow Dumbarton & Helinsburgh Line

Maryhill Primary School

Kelvindock Chemical works

on

asgow Central Line

Lanarkshire & Dumbarton Railway

Public Hall Maryhill Iron Works

Castle Brewery Ruchill Saw Mills Maryhill Barracks Ruchill Goods Station Nail and Rivet Works Soldiers House Maryhill Barracks Station

Hospital

Rubber Works Gold Extracting Works

Glasgow Central Line

Firhill Iron Works Glasgow Central Line

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Kelvinside Bakery

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lvin

Fig. X: 1896 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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1914 Here we can see the development of the locomotive works which also use the rail network. The canal is still used at this point and with the rail network maryhill is a hub of production.

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History and Stories

Glasgow Dumbarton & Helinsburgh Line

Magdaline Instatute Girls Industrial School

Lanarkshire & Dumbarton Railway

Maryhill Football Ground School

Dawsholm Locomotive Works

Ruchill Cooperage

School

Drill Hall

Glasgow Central Line

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School

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Glass Works

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Fig. X: 1914 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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1933 Here we can see urban sprawl happing in Maryhill, although the quality of some of the housing isn’t great and will be demolition not long in the future. We can see Maryhill Growing south and merging with Glasgow at this stage, the centre of Maryhill is also moving south as the centre was previously above the canal.

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History and Stories

Glasgow Dumbarton & Helinsburgh Line

Lanarkshire & Dumbarton Railway

School Glasgow Central Line

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lvin

Fig. X: 1933 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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1975 The closure of the rail networks in maryhill has left plenty of scars. Some of the Remains can still be seen across the River Kelvin. The barracks has been transformed into mixed social housing estate. The original boundary wall has been retained and a new grid has been overlayed. Because the wall was retained the connections from the estate to maryhill are bad and makes the area feel isolated.

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History and Stories

Glasgow Dumbarton & Helinsburgh Line

School

Glasgows House for the deaf

Gilshochill Farm

School Barracks Housing Estate

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Fig. X: 1975 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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1994 More urban sprawl is happening throughout Maryhill and beyond. Maryhill shopping centre/ Tesco is built raised above the site of the old Maryhill train station so that one day it may be reopened.

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History and Stories

Fig. X: 1994 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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2019 In the modern day we can see some more Urban sprawl but also some derelict sights as a result of poor social housing that was built being demolished. The tesco was expanded and is now a 24 hour tesco extra. This has a negative effect on Maryhill as it has a very poor street frontage and a huge car park at the rear.

This means people drive through maryhill and into the back of the Tesco with out using the high street. Local business have suffered as a result of the large supermarket.

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History and Stories

Fig. X: 2019 Figure Ground Map Existing Buildings

New Buildings

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Antonine Wall Scotland lay as the Northwest frontier of the Roman empire The Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius ordered the building of his Antonine Wall in AD 140 to bring some order to that troubled outpost of the empire. Building actually started around AD 142 and is thought to have taken six years to complete. Running from east to west, and stretching some 37 miles long from modern Bo’ness on the Firth of Forth to Old Kilpatrick on the River Clyde, the wall marked the extent of the Roman military advance northwards. A part of the Antonine Wall ran through Maryhill, in the Maryhill Park area, although none of the wall can be seen in maryhill today there are still ruins of a Roman fort which adjoined the wall in Bearsden. (En.wikipedia.org, 2019)

Antonine wall and the Fourth & Canal

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History and Stories

History and Stories

River Kelvin and the Mills The River Kelvin is a tributary of the river Clyde and flows south from Dullatur Bog and eventually into the Clyde. Industries were concentrated beside River Kelvin before the canal arrived in Maryhill. Mills near the river were used a lot that a compensation reservoir had to be built to ensure that there is enough water flow in order to drive the mills. (Hutton, 1994.)

The paper making industry was one of the oldest industries on river Kelvin, where it began at Woodbridge in the 1680s. The paper making trade only started in Maryhill nearly one century later. Dawsholm Mill, that was originally a grain mill owned by the Macarthur family. It has been changed into a papermaking mill in 1783. When it was sold in 1878, it was still used to manufacture paper up to 1970, when it closed and demolished. The site is now a part of an extension to the Dawsholm Park. (Hutton, 1994.)

Dawsholm Mill Dam beside Dawsholm Park, (Hutton, 1994.)

Kelvin Bridge at Dawsholm (Hutton, 1994.)

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The Forth and Clyde Canal & Maryhill Docks The construction of the canal, having reach Stocking field in the 1775, started to extend in two different directions, one towards Glasgow, heading to Port Dundas and the other towards the Clyde estuary at Bowling. (Smart, 2002) The Canal completed in 1790, 22 years after work on the canal has started. The development of the Forth and Clyde Canal largely impacted and contributed to the growth of Maryhill. As a result of its development, the population of Maryhill grew tremendously as the canal became a source of employment for the locals and at the same time gave opportunities to Maryhill for industrial development.

(Mill, 1990) Due to the opening of the Edinburgh to Glasgow Railway in 1842, trade on the canal slowed down. By 1962, trade on the canal became so sparse and was closed at the end of the year 1963. The locks and canal then fell into neglect and became a dumping ground for rubbish. However, it still plays an important part for drainage in Central Scotland. In th1980s effort has been made to restore the canal as there was a realization that the canal could be used as a valuable trait to Glasgow. (Mill, 1990) The Glasgow Canal Project launched in 1988 aimed to reopen the can from Temple to Kirkintilloch inclusive of the Maryhill branch leading to port Dundas.

A fleet of 40 vessels sailed from Falkirk to Bowling as a ceremony in the canal’s reopening on 26th May 2001. The Canal is currently in use for holidaying barge cruises from Glasgow to Falkirk or all the way to Edinburgh. (Mitchell, 2019) Amongst the locks in Maryhill are: 21 – Maryhill Top Lock No. 21 (summit level) 22 – Maryhill Lock 23 – Maryhill Lock 24 – Maryhill Lock 25 – Maryhill Bottom Lock No. 25 (wikipedia.org, 2019)

Dawsholm Mill Dam beside Dawsholm Park, (Hutton, 1994.)

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History and Stories

Maryhill as a Burgh Maryhill gained Burgh Status in 1856 when the canal brought in several industries into the area, such as textile printing, bleaching, weaving, iron foundries, engineering, rubber works, flint glass bottle works, and lead colour works. (Mill, 1990) (Smart, 2002) In the first year of the formation of Maryhill as a burgh, the administration was in the building at the corner of Fingal Street and Maryhill Road. The building had a flat on the upper floor for the Superintendent of Police and a courtroom, for Police court trials. (Hutton, 1994) Maryhill burgh hall was completed in and started to be in used in the 1878.

Maryhill was annexed and absorbed into Glasgow in 1921 (Black, 2019) When Maryhill was absorbed into Glasgow, it was the largest suburbs in the city.

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Booklet No.2

The Glass Industry The glassblower, a stained glass by Stephen Adam, an influential stained-glass designer, made for Maryhill Burgh, where each of the windows portray an industry that is happening in the burgh during the time. (Maryhill Burgh Halls, 2019) (Smart, 2002) The Glasgow Glass Bottle works, Firhill Glass bottle works, and the Caledonian bottle works were located along the stretch of the canal along the Bisland aqueduct and Firhill basin. These glass works consequently influenced the naming of its nearby street as Murano street, a reference to the famous Venetian glass works. This site is now cleared and redeveloped as new flats for students’ accommodation. (Smart, 2002)

Antonine wall and the Fourth & Canal

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History and Stories

Maryhill Military Barracks The site of the barracks, where the Wyndford estate is on in the present, was acquired in 1869 after considering other sites in Cowclairs and Hyndland. The military barracks, completed in 1876, has an accommodation for a regiment of infantry, a squadron of Calvary, and a battery of field artillery. There were also stables, a chapel, a hospital, accommodation for sick horses, a prison and recreational facilities. Over the years the barracks were occupied by different regiments stationed in Glasgow.

In 1958, the barracks closed when they were relocated to Ayr, when the Highland Light Infantry amalgamated with the Royal Scots Fusilliers. The site is then obtained by the Glasgow Corporation and the barracks has been replaced with the award winning Wyndfod estate. The estate composes of four blocks of twenty-six storey flats, five fifteen storey blocks, a nine storey block, and blocks of eight, four and three storey apartments. (Smart, 2002)

Survey done in 1894 showing the site of the barracks. Ordinance survey map obtained from Digimaps.

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Booklet No.2

Queen Cross Church The Queen Cross Church, designed by distinguished architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh opened in 1899, with the first service held in 10th September of the same year. It is currently in use as the headquarters of the Charles Rennie Mackintosh Society. The church is he only church by the architect that has been built. (Smart, 2002) The site being on a corner plot, sandwiched by tenements and a large warehouse is a challenging plot and a simple design is required to reflect the beliefs of the Free Church.

Picture of the Queen’s Cross Church located at Maryhill Road, at the section where it used to be part of the New City Road. (Smart, 2002)

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History and Stories

Tower blocks in the 18th century The poor living conditions in the original village of Maryhill, particularly around the River Kelvin area, had been recognized for some time, but only after 1918 was wide scale action taken to remedy this. In 1926 “garden suburb” type housing was erected by Glasgow Corporation to the north at Gilscochill. The old houses around Whitelaw Street were swept away, replaced by council tenements, similar buildings being erected on the remaining parts of Ruchill and Gairbraid Estates. This resulted in the demolition of Ruchill House and Gairbraid House, leaving only one “grand house”, Garscube. Garscube Estate had been taken over by the University of Glasgow, the Veterinary School being based around the estate farm buildings. Garscube House survived until 1947 when discovery of dry rot led to its demise. (Black, 2019) The award winning 26- storey Wyndford estate now sits on the site of the old Maryhill Barracks. After the 1960 closure of the Barracks the site was chosen for the housing scheme. The former perimeter walls of the barracks and the gatehouse are still preserved up till present. (Smart, 2002) (wikipedia.org ,2019) The buildings in Maryhill today is a mix of the nineteenth and twentieth century tenements which managed to survive the wide scale demolition for the council estates in the 1950s. New houses of better planning now replaces the gaps that appeared when the estates were built. (Smart, 2002)

Picture of Wyndford Estate, location of the old Military Barracks.

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Historic Photo Map Locations

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History and Stories

Fig. X: 2019 Figure Ground Map

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Booklet No.2

Historical Photos

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History and Stories

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Listed buildings Map

Fig. X: 2019 Figure Ground Map

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History and Stories

Listed Buildings C Listed Former Maryhill Primary School.

The school opened in 1884 and was known locally as the “Gilshie�. The building was closed in 2009 and was converted into 9 modern flats by Grant Murry Architects in 2011. The conversion was part of a wider development of 28 residential units for Maryhill |Housing association.

C listed. The Whitehouse Inn, Forth and Clyde Canal, 1647 Maryhill Road, Glasgow

3. Sandbank Street, Maryhill High Church, (Church of Scotland) and Halls to 7 Aray Street. A Category C Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow.

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8. 1512-1528 (Even Nos) Maryhill Road. A Category C Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow.

9. 1508 Maryhill Road, Maryhill Public Library. A Category B Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow.

10.

1226-1236 (Even Nos) Maryhill Road/Ruchill Street, Wyndford Club. A Category C Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow.

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History and Stories

11.

17 Shakespeare Street, Ruchill Parish Church Halls and Janitor’s House. A Category A Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow.

12.

15 Shakespeare Street, Ruchill Parish Church, (Church of Scotland). A Category B Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow.

13.

75 Hotspur Street, Shakespeare Primary School, Gatepiers, Gates and Railings (Formerly Garrioch School).

A Category B Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow.

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95 Hotspur Street, Kelbourne School and 109 Hotspur Street, Janitor’s House, Gatepiers and Railings. A Category C Listed Building in Maryhill, Glasgow

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Booklet No.2

Lost Landmarks Map

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History and Stories

Lost Landmarks

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Stories

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History and Stories

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History and Stories

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History and Stories

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Booklet No.2

Strength

1. Community spirit

3. Nature in proximity

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History and Stories

2. Rich historical heritage

4. Lots of development areas

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Booklet No.2

Weaknesses

1. Historical Poverty

3. Demolishing buildings

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History and Stories

2. Derelict buildings

4. Connection to Kelvin river and the canal is often blocked and not used

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Booklet No.2

Deceleration

Declaration AB 964 Design Studies 5A 2019/20 MArch/Pg Dip Advanced Architectural Design MArch Architectural Design International

Declaration “I hereby declare that this submission is my own work and has been composed by myself. It contains no unacknowledged text and has not been submitted in any previous context. All quotations have been distinguished by quotation marks and all sources of information, text, illustration, tables, images etc. have been specifically acknowledged.

I accept that if having signed this Declaration my work should be found at Examination to show evidence of academic dishonesty the work will fail and I will be liable to face the University Senate Discipline Committee.�

Name:

Archibald Prince & Lim Xian Ying, Nadin Mahmoud

Signed: Date:

19/11/2019

Department of Architecture Level 3, James Weir Building 75 Montrose Street Glasgow G1 1XJ

t:+ 44 (0) 141 548 3023/3097/4219

Head of Department: Professor Ashraf Salama

e: architecture@strath.ac.uk

The place of useful learning The University of Strathclyde is a charitable body, registered in Scotland, number SC015263

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History and Stories

References •

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Black. W.B. (2019). TheGlasgowStory: 1830s to 1914: Neighbourhoods: Maryhill. [online] Theglasgowstory.com. Available at: https://www.theglasgowstory.com/ story/?id=TGSDG05 [Accessed 8 Oct. 2019].

Black W.B. (2019). TheGlasgowStory: 1914 to 1950s: Neighbourhoods: Maryhill. [online] Theglasgowstory.com. Available at: https://www.theglasgowstory.com/ story/?id=TGSEG05 [Accessed 8 Oct. 2019].

En.wikipedia.org. (2019). Maryhill. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Maryhill#cite_note-2 [Accessed 3 Oct. 2019].

Hutton, G. (2005). Bygone Maryhill. Catrine: Stenlake.

Hutton, G. (1994). Old maryhill.

Kenna, R., Dimmick, A. and McEwan, D. (2005). Glasgow then and now. Ayr: Fort.

Maryhill Burgh Halls. (2019). Maryhill Burgh Halls: Historic Stained Glass. [online] Available at: https://www.maryhillburghhalls.org.uk/panels [Accessed 17 Oct. 2019].

Mitchell I.R. (2019). Unlocking Maryhill - A history of its places and people by I.R. Mitchell - Glasgow West End. [online] Glasgow West End. Available at: https:// www.glasgowwestend.co.uk/unlocking-maryhill/ [Accessed 8 Oct. 2019].

Smart, A. (2002). Villages of Glasgow. Edinburgh: John Donald. http://glasgowpunter.blogspot.com/2013/09/maryhill-is-wonderful-walkingthrough.html http://www.grant-murray.co.uk/maryhill-primary-school.html https://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryMagazine/DestinationsUK/The-AntonineWall/

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