One last thing
AGAINST THE ALARMISM Text Stephan Huber, Editor of style in progress and x-ray
T
he fashion industry is suffering from an annoying, contagious and, if left untreated, not entirely safe disease. As far as I know, there's no medical term to describe it. I just call it "offensive bad-mouthing." And hardly anyone is immune. Even me. In the lead-up to the latest Berlin Fashion Week, I too participated in superficial speculations, irritated by different cancellations by brands, publicised to varying extents, brands who felt like part of the Bread & Butter's permanent inventory. Stupid! Stupid because it completely overlooks the issue, attaching the development of Berlin as a location to topical and individual decisions by particular companies. Even if they are big names. Stupid because there is a real need for debate and action on the future development of Berlin as a location. But also beyond comforting alarmism with which we like to pass time. For once, let's look at how things are: The Fashion Week as a whole has impressed once again. Anyone who returned home without taking something with them, whether they be contacts, ideas, business, guidance has done something wrong themselves. Whether there were actually fewer professional visitors in Berlin, or whether this was only suspected, is irrelevant, provided that enough of the right people come. We certainly don't need to be constantly breaking records. And personally, I would prefer if all those who are not actually professional visitors weren't standing around in the way at all. To put it bluntly. So it's all good? No need for change? No! Because on the one hand there is the offensive bad-mouthing which I mentioned above. And we need to confront this. And on the other hand this is definitely the right time to evaluate Berlin as a location and its biggest protagonists. And here I have a few requests and suggestions: – I don't need to explain to the Bread & Butter and Karl-Heinz Müller how to run their business. I really don't. I just want to say that among the big, the small can often get lost. But those that are smaller are so important to ensure that those that are bigger remain interesting and can function. – The Premium and its creators who, rightly, are proud of the development of their event, please allow me to make the following contribution to your autograph book: Those who have grown should not forget what it was like when they were still small themselves. And so show greatness when dealing with those that are smaller today. – The city of Berlin and its political leaders somehow still haven't understood the level of huge profits that the Fashion Week brings to the city. Yes... ok, the governing mayor does attend everything. A sensible solution to the traffic problem might be more helpful these days than the group photos with Wowi.
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– Dear Berlin Hotel Owners: I didn't believe for a second that you could resist the temptations of the market economy. Supply and demand... no problem. But you promised sooooo innocently that Berlin would be different on this issue too. And so now I may at least complain. – And here's some advice for the entire, grassed-up fashion industry, always so quickly dissatisfied and yet casual: We are offered excellence in Berlin, at the right time in the right place. And that the grass is greener on the other side is an optical illusion. I've checked. x Stephan Huber wishes you a great summer
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Photographers & Illustrators Jo Fischer, Fritz Heinrich, Pawel Swanski, Henning Weskamp, Federica Roncaldier, Veit Ritterbecks Styling Agi Habryka, Friederike von Bock Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher‘s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations transmit-Deutschland Printing Laber Druck, Oberndorf Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627, Sort Code: 45010