IN STORE 199
house in Wilhelminian times, was supposed to become a luxury hotel, a sort of second Adlon in the West. Patina, bricks and a library
For the interior decoration alone, this is worth a trip to Kurfürstendamm. With a light touch, the architects integrated an old art nouveau library from the Viennese Palais Liechtenstein into the new 14 oz. So custom made that many guests are under the illusion that this gallery was always there, just as with its ceiling which seems old and which in reality was transformed into this state by a skilful painter. Nothing is coincidental here, everything on site has been agreed upon, worked on and patinated until it finally "fits in." There are some details that the guests don't consciously notice – like the specially-made spotlights on the ceiling, which hark back to film studios in the golden '20s, and which fill the whole room with warm light, or the electronically-adjustable LEDs in the library wall, with which the products can be bathed in different atmospheres. There are separate entrances for men and women, the back part of the store links both. The product range comprises luxury items that don't rely on big designer names, but on a quality product. "The same woman who wears a Dior dress in the evening, for example, obviously also needs an outfit for the daytime," says Karl-Heinz Müller. Solid oak, rather than veneer
The use of old and new building materials with spolia and set pieces made of a combination of "raw luxury" and new technology was already characteristic of
"You can only develop this type of furniture on site, and this requires time." Karl-Heinz Müller, owner of 14 oz.
A launch with friends: from the left Jason Denham, Karl-Heinz Müller, Adriano Goldschmied and Nigel Cabourn.
the first 14 oz., which Müller likes to call his "head office." The look of the new store is, no doubt thanks to the height of the ceilings, more spacious and more imposing. Nothing was quickly thrown together here: solid oak instead of veneer, real pieces rather than plastic veneering, real brick walls instead of fake wallpaper. "You can only develop this type of furniture on site, and this requires time," describes Karl-Heinz Müller, who clearly enjoyed working on his new project. As well as the others, who helped him with it. F.C. Gundlach, a German fashion photography grand seigneur, personally chose black and white motifs from decades gone by for the store. It's not only a homage to Berlin, a reminiscence of the '50s, when Ku'damm was still the centre of fashion and German couturiers like Uli Richter shaped the look. In other respects too, the future is telling the team around the trade fair boss to "go west": the headquarters of the Bread & Butter will move from Central Berlin to Haus Cumberland, and will take up two storeys and 800 square metres.
14 oz. in Haus Cumberland Theodor-Heuss Straße 15, Kurfürstendamm 193–194, 10707 Berlin/Germany Opening: October 2012 Owners: Karl-Heinz Müller Retail space: 600 sqm. Women's labels: 45 r.p.m., AG Adriano Goldschmied, Barbour, Bergfabel, Blauer, Canada Goose, Closed, Cruciani, Current/Elliott, Denham The Jeanmaker, Drykorn, Equipment, Fidelity, Gloverall, Happy Sheep, Hunter, Inis Meáin, Jbrand, Johnbull, Lavenham, Liebig, Ludwig Reiter, Mackintosh, Majestics, Meindl, Nudie Jeans & Co., Sahaja, Shoto, Splendid, Tricker’s, True Royal, Windsor, Woolrich Brands for Men: 3×1 by Scott Morrison, 45 r.p.m., Alden, Andersen-Andersen, Atelier LaDurance, barbour, Bergfabel, B.D. Baggies, Buttero, Canada Goose, Carhartt, Closed, Denham The Jeanmaker, Drykorn, Edwin, Gloverall, G.R.P., Haversack, Hunter, Inis Meáin, Jean Shop, Lavenham, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Ludwig Reiter, Meindl, Merz B. Schwanen, Mackintosh, Monitaly, Momotaro, Nigel Cabourn, Nudie Jeans Co., Quoddy, Prps, Red Wing Shoes, Salvatore Piccolo, Schiesser Revival, Shoto, Spiewak, Schott N.Y.C., Tellason, Ten C, Tricker’s, Viberg Boot, Windsor, Wolverine, Woolrich, Yuketen Accessories: Ben Alder, Borsalino, Ca4la, Drakes, Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan, Felisi, Filson Bags, GlobeTrotter, Headhunter, Himalaya Cashmere, King Baby Studio, Laco, Midori, Mühlbauer, Pantherella, Piet Breinholm, Stetson
style in progress 113