REVIEW
CALUMET FISHERIES
BY ALEX MEDOFF PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH LI
>> NEIGHBORHOOD SOUTH DEERING
>> PRICES
$$
For centuries, humans have delighted in one of life’s simplest pleasures: smoked fish. Originally developed for preserving produce, the process of smoking food quickly garnered admiration for its effect of infusing meat and fish alike with a unique, sweet and woody flavor. In seaside communities, the fisherman’s smokehouse became a cherished refuge—a place where locals could come and go to enjoy fresh, perfectly tender fish. Today, in the South Deering neighborhood of Chicago, Calumet Fisheries upholds this timeless tradition. Nestled along the bank of the Calumet River, in the midst of an intricate crisscrossing of bridges and railways, a small white hut with a bright red roof rests quietly, awaiting hungry visitors. On our visit to this quaint little fish shack, before we had even reached its entrance, we noticed a sweetsmelling smoke that seemed to envelope the place. As we soon found out, this aromatic haze was originating from the near centuryold smokehouse that sits adjacent to the building, its brick exterior blackened by years of built-up soot. After relishing in the beauty of this sight for a not-so-short period of time, we were eager to go inside. Inside the shop, the atmosphere takes on a wonderfully charming, retro style. Oldschool signage with bold, red lettering lays out the menu, and an eclectic display of photographs and fish-themed novelties lines the walls and shelves. At the counter, you can freely survey the fish options, which
>> DISHES TO TRY
SMOKED SALMON, SMOKED TROUT (PEPPER & GARLIC), FRIED FROG LEGS include salmon, trout, sturgeon, sable, heads & collars, catfish, and eel, all of which are smoked to perfection over a bed of smoldering cherry and oak wood chips. They also offer a number of sides, including fries, crab cakes, fried shrimp, and frog legs. We opted for smoked salmon, smoked pepper & garlic trout, and fried frog legs, but if you’re a newcomer to Calumet and feel that you could use some guidance, the friendly and knowledgeable staff will be happy to give you recommendations based on your preferences. Despite there being no indoor seating, there are two tables outside with a view of the river that can satisfy all of your fish-eating needs. It is there, with the gentle riverside breeze at your back and the pleasant rumble of passing-by cargo trains in the distance, where you can best enjoy this food. Our salmon was tender, salty, and rich in flavor. At the same time, it was extremely light and fresh, and its texture was delicate while still being firm. The trout, seasoned with coarse black pepper and minced garlic, was creamier in texture and generally milder than the salmon, and the added crunch and spice provided by the seasoning made it especially worthwhile. The fried frog legs did not disappoint, either. They had a satisfying, crispy exterior and the meat was juicy, delicate, and flavorful. Our advice: make a trip to Calumet Fisheries with a couple of hungry friends and bring along some fresh bagels and cream cheese, too.
reviews
5
