UChicago Bite Issue XXIV: Winter 2024

dear foodies & friends It is with happy hearts and loudly growling stomachs that we present to you the Winter 2024 issue of Bite Magazine! This quarter, we dove deeply into many Chicago restaurants we’ve been excited to try: some more popular and critically acclaimed, some just as good but off the beaten path. From the Korean steaks and pork belly from Perilla to the short-rib stuffed pierogies from Pierogi Kitchen, we certainly got our protein fix this cold, icy Chicago winter. Interested in traveling a bit, getting out of your comfort zone? We ventured up north to sample the freshest, melt-in-your-mouth nigiri you’ll ever find at Lawrence Fish Market — and at the best price. Stomach still not satisfied? We took to the streets to settle the debate on the croissant-craze and to really put those Tik-Tok reviewers to the test (spoiler alert: the Daisies x Wiener Circle Croissant is not worth a 2 hour wait).

We became extremely interested in revisiting classic American foods this winter to bring comfort and warmth to dreary days. We explored the re-emergence and history of cottage cheese (14), examined the benefits of citrus season and the Florida orange during the winter (22), reflected on American movie theater and holiday sweet treats (20), and offered an ode to delicious dips (12). If you’re looking for an international drink to pair nicely with your meal, look at our science of wine pairings (18). We even took Bite behindthe-scenes, inside a restaurant kitchen itself through reflecting on a staging opportunity at S.K.Y. one of us was able to experience this quarter (16).

We also worked hard to whip up some delicious dishes that fit the winter mood. To start off a morning with something sweet, try our Hong Kong Style French Toast, sworn to impress at any brunch (23). If you’re looking for a dish that will make your apartment smell of sugar and happiness, try our scrumptious butterscotch toffee pie (29). Not in the mood to drop hefty cash for a downtown French dinner? We’ve taught you how to confit right in the comfort of your own home (26). If you’re feeling homesick or nostalgic while remembering meals with family growing up, whip up a little tomato acini dish (28) or the recipes passed down from our mothers (24).

As winter comes to a close and we start emerging from our hibernation to (hopefully) warmer temperatures, we are excited to continue exploring all that Chicago has to offer. If you’re looking to get out and explore the culinary scene, boy, do we have the recommendations for you. No matter what you decide is in your foodie future, don’t forget to scroll through our Instagram (@uchicagobite) and tag us with all your epicurean adventures!

the editors

2 bite | WINTER 2024

table of contents 4 Pierogi Kitchen 6 Chicago Croissant Crawl 8 Lawrence Fish Market 10 perilla 12 Ode to Dips 14 Cottage cheese 16 Live on stage 18 Wine Pairings 20 Themed foods 22 Return of Citrus 23 HK Style French Toast 24 Seaweed soup narrative 26 Duck Confit 28 Tomato Acini Pasta 29 Butterscotch toffee pie CO-EDITOR-IN-CHIEF CAYLA VOLANDES CO-EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KALLIE HOFFMAN MANAGING DIRECTOR ZOE KIM CREATIVE DIRECTOR ALLY GAMMILL PROGRAMMING DIRECTOR STACIA KONOW DIRECTOR OF FINANCE IAN B. HENDERSON BLOG EDITOR OLIVIA SHANLER DESIGNERS Abbey Piatt Price Ally Gammill, Ana Estupinan, Audrey Kaye, Emily Son, Emma Tung, Julie Kang, Ningjing Huang WRITERS Abby Yuhan, Aidan Cessor, Cayla Volandes, Charlotte Engrav, Connor Bloch, Elena Thoman, Kai Schirmacher, Kaia Griggs, Kallie Hoffman, Markis Cheng, Oscar Chen, Riley Yates, Shivam Gupta, Stacia Konow, Zoe Kim PHOTOGRAPHERS Daniel Arad, Daniela Chafloque, Karina Mak, Emily Kim COVER PHOTOS KARINA MAK

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>> NEIGHBORHOOD WICKER PARK >> PRICES

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>> DISHES TO TRY

BRISKET PIEROGI BREAD AND SPREAD KIELBASA PLATTER

REVIEW

PIEROGI KITCHEN

BY OSCAR CHEN PHOTOS BY KARINA MAK

Wicker Park buzzes with a distinctive energy, unmatched in its eclectic fusion of the artsy and the urban. It’s here that Pierogi Kitchen opened its doors just a month ago, offering a mash-up of Polish culinary art and a hint of BBQ swagger that’s as bold as the neighborhood itself. The menu is as much a testament to Polish comfort food as it is a nod to culinary audacity, all wrapped within a humble pierogi.

As you step into Pierogi Kitchen, you notice that the setting is a quirky blend of diner nostalgia and modern chic, with white-framed windows opening up to the bustling streets, indie R&B tunes setting a laid-back rhythm, and festive yellow string lights festooned across the green botanicals. Here, wooden chairs and booths invite you to settle in, while the brick and tile walls stand as silent testament to shared meals and stories.

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Now, let’s talk about food—the real heartthrob of Pierogi Kitchen.

Despite having a limited selection, I believe you can’t go wrong with any of the choices. The restaurant’s namesake, its pierogi, was what I wanted to try first. A pierogi is a traditional polish dumpling usually filled with sweet or savory fillings such as cheese and potatoes, and Pierogi Kitchen’s hypothesis that brisket makes it even better proved to be true — it was love at first bite. The pierogi was soft, pillowy, and packed with tender brisket. Accompanied by onions sautéed to buttery perfection, the brisket pierogi truly showed off the innovation of comfort food.

But why stop at pierogis? The Bread and Spread was an absolute daredevil on the menu, boldly pairing sliced ciabatta with spreads that surprised me once more. The bone marrow was the star player, again introducing a meaty element to a dish and making it incredibly enjoyable, while the Ćwikła jam (beet and horseradish) brought a wasabi kick and sweet beet tingle, and the house pickles were a refreshing encore that left me craving more.

Then came the Kielbasa Platter, a generous homage to the heartiness of Polish cuisine. Each element — the sweet kielbasa, the tangy sauerkraut which breaks down the meatiness, the bold beet jam, and the sharp tang of the dijon mustard — all combined to create a complex and masterful flavor profile that was simultaneously comforting, filling, and exhilarating for my palette.

What truly made my experience worthwhile at Pierogi Kitchen wasn’t just the food: it was the overall feeling. The indie R&B music doesn’t drown out conversation; it invites it. In addition, the lively glow of the woven lamp lights casts a spell over the evening, making every meal feel like a celebration. Pierogi Kitchen is a destination for those seeking a comforting yet novel dining experience. So, if you find yourself wandering the streets of Wicker Park, follow the festive lights and the scent of Polish sausages to Pierogi Kitchen. Trust me, it’s a journey worth taking.

reviews reviews 5

>> NEIGHBORHOOD

THROUGHOUT CHICAGO >> PRICES

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MOLE VERDE WHITE CHOCOLATE CROSSAINT CHICAGO DOG CROSSIANT GIARDINEIRA CROSSIANT I

6 bite | WINTER 2024

REVIEW

CHICAGO CROSSAINT CRAWL

BY CHARLOTTE ENGRAV, KY CRUZ PHOTOS BY CHARLOTTE ENGRAV, KY CRUZ ILLUSTRATION BY ANA ESTUPINAN Starting with Dominique Ansel’s “cronut” in 2013, the croissant has taken many shapes over the years for the sake of internet virality. After the cronut came croissant cubes, cruffins (croissant muffins), croffles (croissant waffles), and custard-stuffed cylinders. Most of these trends were spawned in New York and Los Angeles in bakeries that are more tourist or TikTok algorithm oriented. In January 2024, Chicago threw its hat into the ring of controversialcroissant-crafting. Daisies, a trendy “Midwestern Italian” pasta spot, announced a limited collaboration with Wiener’s Circle, a hot dog stand known for its “Char Dogs, Cheddar Fries, and verbal abuse” as you order. For customers, the delicacy sparked opinions ranging from glowing excitement to disgust and hatred. This outrage caught our attention, which motivated us to see which side we landed on in the debate. Along the way, we found a few more of Chicago’s takes on the “grownup” croissant.

We started the morning off at Loba Pastry, where we were set on trying their mole verde (an Oaxacan mole featuring green chile, tomatoes, and pumpkin puree) white chocolate croissant. It’s only served on Sunday mornings, but don’t stress too much about getting there at the 9 AM open if you want to try one. We made the sleepy trek to Lincoln Park, only to discover the croissants we coveted were still in the oven. It was not too frustrating though, as we were able to try their other scrumptious baked offerings and sip excellent macchiatos served in handspun pottery. However, I will say that Thundercat blared a little bit louder over the speakers than we would have preferred. About an hour after opening, they brought out a

steaming tray of croissants, glistening from a thin layer of simple syrup brushed over the top. We jumped in line and quickly made our way back to our table to examine our spread. They were hot, bready croissants, with a somewhat dense lamination made even more decadent by the flavor combination of spicy mole and light white chocolate. It worked unexpectedly well and felt very in-sync with the progressive, minimal vibe of the space.

From there, we pushed further west towards Daisies, excited to sample the crown jewel of our crawl. At this point in our visit, the hype had clearly died down a bit. There was a short line but things moved quickly and efficiently. Nearly everyone included the Chicago hot dog croissant in their order, and the restaurant continued to restock their selection as we dined. We sat in their expansive dining room where you can snack on expensive cans of imported tinned fish, thick chicken parm, or Cubano sandwiches. As we broke into the pastry, we found it to be much more refined than we expected, flaking everywhere as we sliced the croissant into pieces. The contrast between the delicate dough and beef hot dog was noticeable, and it helped elevate the flavors of the hot dog in an effective way. All the condiments were included – even the large pickle spear on top. Our one criticism was that it felt difficult to eat everything in one bite, and the individual flavors of the pastry and condiments were nothing to write home about. To put the controversy to rest – there’s no need for Daisies to make the pastry a permanent option on their menu, but it is far from an abomination (as some commenters described it), and we are glad we tried it in our croissant journey.

For our final stop on the tour, we passed through Publican Quality Breads to try their Giardiniera Croissant. While labeled a croissant, this pastry could also be considered a Danish. The space at Publican Quality Breads is small, with no room for seating. The line here was longest, wrapping around three walls of the cramped room, mostly consisting of people stocking up on bread for the week. Unfortunately, the pastry itself was stale, even though it was only 11 AM in the morning, and the pungent giardiniera, egg, and cheese filling was curdled in a lessthan-appetizing manner. We found room outside to dig in but couldn’t muster more than a bite each before calling it quits at Publican Quality Breads. For their shop, you can skip the savory croissants and wait for the much fresher loaves of bread.

All in all, Chicago’s ‘trendy’ croissant scene is interesting — exploring more than just alternative croissant shapes through surprising

flavors and cultural fusions. While nothing we tried felt like the next cronut in terms of icon-status, it was exciting to see how Chicago’s baking scene mirrors its eclectic food scene. It blends the sweet and the savory, the traditional with the deeply contemporary and controversial.

reviews 7

This small and unassuming cash-only, family-owned restaurant tucked away on a busy street in Albany Park seems to have accomplished the impossible: highquality yet budget-friendly sushi made with premium fish imported directly from Japan. Having gained a cult following in recent years among sushi aficionados in Chicago, the Albany Park Chamber of Commerce awarded this restaurant the title of “Most Hidden Gem” in 2019.

I set out to find out for myself if its propositions were simply too good to be true. For a little over a dollar a piece for most nigiri and around five dollars a roll for maki, how high quality can the sushi really be?

The restaurant itself consists of a deli counter where patrons place orders, a shelf with a variety of Asian drinks and snacks, and two small tables. Behind the counter are several sushi chefs, rapidly churning out impressive orders within minutes.

Despite the popularity of rolls and assorted trays at Lawrence Fish Market, I opted for a nigiri platter in order to gauge the quality of a wide variety of fish.

I selected a whopping fourteen different pieces of sushi: Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp), Tamago (Sweet egg), Saba (Mackerel), Ika (Squid), Tako (Octopus), Fatty Salmon, Albacore, Ikura (Salmon roe), Unagi (Broiled eel), Fatty Hamachi (Yellowtail), and what I was most excited to taste, Japanese Uni (Sea urchin), Akami, ChuToro, and O-Toro (three different cuts of bluefin tuna).

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The nigiri arrived in a plastic take-out tray with pickled ginger and a dollop of wasabi. My initial reaction was amazement at the sheer thickness of the slices of fish atop the rice. With vibrant hues and an aromatic but not overly “fishy” smell, it was immediately clear that the freshness of the fish here rivaled that of any major sushi establishment in Chicago. When I started dining, I frequently thought to myself, “Oh, so that’s what this is supposed to taste like!”

The Ika and Tako were delightfully crisp yet tender and clearly fresh, as opposed to the chewy, rubbery squid and octopus most restaurants serve. The Amaebi burst with sweetness, with a satisfying crunch and juiciness unlike any shrimp nigiri I had before. The tender Fatty Salmon and strong, briny Saba both consisted of thick pieces of fish with deeply flavorful, wellmarbled fat that luxuriously coated my tongue. The Uni was a bright gold-orange color, indicative of a high grade, and it melted in my mouth with a mild oceanlike flavor and custardy sweetness. With the slight exception of the Unagi, which I found too sweet for my liking, every piece exceeded my expectations.

To me, the reasonably priced bluefin tuna selection confirmed Lawrence Fish Market’s reputation of affordable excellence. Typically costing nearly three to four times the price at any popular sushi restaurant, the Akami, Chu-Toro, and O-Toro cost $2.40, $4.95, and

REVIEW

LAWRENCE FISH MARKET

BY SHIVAM GUPTA PHOTOS BY AUTHOR >> NEIGHBORHOOD ALBANY PARK >> PRICES $$

>> DISHES TO TRY

JAPANESE UNI BLUEFIN OTORO FATTY SALMON AMAEBI (SWEET SHRIMP)

$5.95, respectively. What a steal! The Akami was lean, very meaty, and had a firm texture. Yet, the O-Toro was the star of the show, with a soft, buttery, and meltin-your-mouth consistency that dissolved into pure umami and lingered far beyond the initial bite.

If you would like an elaborate and elegant dining experience with more culinary creativity, it might make sense to pay the premium to dine at Chicago restaurants like Momotaro, Komo, or one of the various high-end omakase restaurants Chicago has to offer. But for those looking to simply try the same premium fish at an affordable price, this is definitely a restaurant worth visiting.

reviews 9

>> NEIGHBORHOOD

FULTON MARKET/WEST LOOP

>> PRICES

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BLISTERED SHISHITO PEPPERS RICE CAKES LA GALBI

REVIEW

PERILLA

BY KAIA GRIGGS PHOTOS BY DANIELA CHAFLOQUE ILLUSTRATIONS BY AUDREY KAYE

After a series of renovations in April, this moodily lit Korean barbecue spot tucked just outside of Fulton Market feels electric — and not just from the new kintsugi tabletops laced with powdered gold. Decorated with natural dark wood and warm lighting, Perilla is the place where you can unwind with friends to the sound of beef tallow sizzling on the grill. The place is no stranger to a good story either, starting with its namesake.

The perilla leaf, a relative of the mint family, is known for being able to grow wherever it has been planted — this adaptability is a metaphor for the immigrant experience, which both KoreanAmerican owners wish to pay homage to throughout the dining experience.

And homage they pay! By mixing American ingredients with traditional Korean dishes and flavors, each course is a celebration of the new and old. I mean that quite literally — the kimchi served as part of the banchan (the small side dishes) was made by the owners’ grandmas, and the love and care

10 bite | WINTER 2024

is tangible in the flavorful crunch of the cabbage. The atmosphere of a family dinner is maintained through the exciting array of dishware for the plates, with splashes of muted colors and shapes that appear on the table to visually excite the diner even before the first bite.

We started with some shared plates for the table, and each one truly topped the last. Starting with the pork dumplings, the skin was so thin and delicately crispy against the intense flavor of the filling. The scallion pancakes followed and immediately captivated our attention and taste buds. Not only did Perilla update the interior design during their time away, but they also changed the scallion pancake recipe, and it truly delivered. The last time I ordered the scallion pancakes, they had a strong crisp but lacked the soft texture I craved. This time, the outside was still beautifully crisp, but the inside maintained a glutinous, soft texture. The dichotomy was absolutely addicting.

If you’re a fan of shishito peppers, look no further than their blistered shishito peppers filled with miso broth. These are absolutely to die for and would blow the socks off any shishito pepper lover. The broth inside adds an entire dimension of flavor to the bite of the shishito pepper skin, and the crunchy toppings are a pleasurable and interesting addition.

If you visit Perilla, also do not miss the rice cakes and the seasonal special that became everyone’s favorite dish: the seared cabbage. The rice cakes encompass a wide world of flavors, featuring crunchy sesame seeds, fried garlic, pumpkin seeds, and beef bulgogi on top of pillowy-soft tteok myeon.

LA galbi emerged as a favorite because of the tender texture from the bone-in cut.

The texture of the marinated short rib followed the LA galbi nicely, as the smaller cut pieces had a crisp and chewy bite from searing on the grill. The accompanying sauces took it to the next level, where the sesame flavor and gochujang made each bite a Ratatouille food moment. Chef’s kiss. The cured pork belly lagged behind because the larger cuts of meat were a bit harder to chew, however, the flavor was undeniably rich. Finally, we ordered a kimchi stew to round out our selection, which was good but not spectacular when compared to the other offerings that knocked our socks off.

Last but not least of the starters: the seared cabbage. Sitting on a bed of mushroom duxelles and nestled among an array of bean sprouts, carrots, and jalapenos, the cabbage is beautifully buttery and topped with a healthy sprinkle of chives. The umami from the creamy mushroom duxelles filled the gap in flavor that cabbage naturally lacks, and each bite can be crafted to accomplish the perfect complement of the bean sprouts and duxelles-smeared cabbage. All of the dishes held their own, but of course, the meat was the star of the show. We ordered a healthy amount, selecting the LA galbi, marinated short rib, and the dwenjang cured pork belly. Each was absolutely delicious and packed a punch of flavor with the subtly sweet marinades, but the

Stick with the classics here at Perilla, and order the LA galbi and marinated short rib for a dazzling array of flavor and texture. I recommend you order the banchan with it, as $20 gets you unlimited amounts of each kimchi and radish dish. While the meat is the main attraction, be sure to order from the selection of amazing appetizers too.

This restaurant is definitely a splurge, but one so good that it “compared to the LA Korean BBQ scene,” a testament from my friend who gave up a 4-year beef fast to try Perilla’s amazing LA galbi. If he can’t miss it, neither can you.

reviews 11

Ode to

Dips WRITTEN BY AIDAN CESSOR ILLUSTRATIONS BY EMILY SON

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k e o d i h p c i t r

12 bite | WINTER 2024

To be a dip is to be divine. Whether salsa, hummus, or onion, dips are a unique subset of dishes everyone should covet. The dish brings people together through the ritual of plunging chips or bread into a shared, communal sauce. Today, as individuals have grown more isolated, a common meal is the perfect solution; with this, I urge us to fully embrace the dip once again.

There is something so classic about a food named after an action: toast, spread, roast, and dip. The inherent act gives it meaning, an inherent distinction from other foods. The emphasis on the process itself is what transforms the banal ingredients into the dishes we know and love. The momentous dish has two components: the actual dip and the item being dipped.

While the delectable dip itself is vital, don’t be fooled–a stale chip can ruin the entire dish. So, a PSA to all dip-lovers: invest in high-quality chips, bread, or veggies and display them in a bowl. Don’t just leave them in the bag.

Dips can be categorized under three classifications: the hearty, the light, and the in-between. The hearty dips are any dip primarily made out of protein that could be made into a meal. Whether this is Buffalo dip or hummus, the caloric density makes them a great meal. The lighter dips, salsa or guacamole, are exclusively relegated to starters unless you wish to go through multiple bowls of them to feel full. The in-between include queso and onion dip: while they are

protein-rich, they are insufficient to be the main dish. This variety demonstrates the strength and flavor of each individual dip as it can be molded and spread to suit the specific needs of the item being dipped. For this reason, the host cannot haphazardly choose the dip; it must be a deliberate choice.

Each social situation requires a different dip. The game day dips should be hearty yet able to be set on the coffee table, minimizing the amount of people getting up from or spilling on the couch. Thus, a baked buffalo chicken dip or artichoke dip in a walled baking sheet qualifies as the perfect candidate. If it’s a party, then a light dip such as salsa or an onion dip is preferred, since the main focus is on the drinks. Suit the dip to the situation and make it the centerpiece to the appetizer arrangement. Not only does the dip need to be selected for the party, the enjoyers need to understand the rules that go along with the tasty, communal meal.

While food can be political, food politics is seldom talked about.

The Seinfeld episode “The Implant” contains the iconic scene on double dipping, which sparked the conversation back in 1993– the monstrosity, the inherent disgust of seeing an alreadybitten chip dip back into the communal bowl! Microbes from our saliva blending into the same food we consume is not appetizing, but is it that bad? The true arbiters of science, The Mythbusters, found that the differences between double dipping and not double dipping are actually negligible. Yet, do our ritual practices need to be based on science? The Double Dip rule is an integral part of the dip community. It signifies those bound by honor and class, not by gluttony. It’s quite easy to overindulge with delicious dip but restraint is required to enjoy it to the fullest.

There’s no doubt that the dip must be revered as the dish that everyone can enjoy.

With many appetizers fighting for a seat at the dining table, there will inevitably be a fight over who gets the last piece. With the dip, this is rarely the case as the conversation and hands flow together as one. While you wouldn’t notice that the dish was empty until it was too late, it wouldn’t have even mattered since you were bonding with your fellow dip compatriots.

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features 13

VOLUME XXIV

Bite Daily

WINTER ED

COTTAGE CHEESE MA

Tik Tok Gives the Dairy

I was skeptical. Chunky and with an odd mouthfeel and texture, what could be appealing about this light blue container of dairy? If I could hold out from engaging in popular trends like downloading Tik Tok, then I could surely avoid the cottage cheese phase. A substance resembling rancid milk?

No thanks.

Yet, my world seemed to be consumed by cottage cheese. Every corner I turned, the dreaded dairy product was there. It didn’t help that my two close vegetarian friends, Becca and Sam, are avid cottage cheese fans. They devour this textural delicacy on bread, with tomatoes, and even straight out of the container. I frequently teased them, half in humor, half in disgust — eat an apple or something for Chrissake, I thought. However, don’t be fooled and think I’m a picky eater: I’m GreekAmerican, which makes me an unafraid lover of fermented dairy products like yogurt and feta. My own quart-sized 2% Fage yogurts have the ability to fly off the shelf within the week. So, determined to overcome my fear of this unfamiliar cheese, I decided to see what the hype was about, starting with a little research.

First, I had to understand what the product consisted of at the most granular level. What really is cottage cheese, anyway? After some vigorous online research, my questions were answered: cottage cheese is a fermented dairy product, a mixture of milk curds and cream. In the creation process, milk first coagulates into a large, singular curd. Then, in the process of getting broken up into smaller pieces, the milk releases whey, a liquid form of protein. Upon draining the whey, cottage cheese is created by mixing the curds with cream, which gives the cheese its chunky and glob-like appearance.

Americans have had a hot-n-cold relationship with cottage cheese over the years. America’s tumultuous love affair with cottage cheese first began during WWI; references to cottage cheese soared as rationing propaganda posters on the homefront urged Americans to eat more cottage cheese and less meat. These posters praised cottage cheese’s protein content, equating it to the protein intake obtained from meat. The dairy surplus during WWI further facilitated this trend by expanding cottage cheese production and delivering cheaper prices for the product. This brought cottage cheese into the limelight.

A similar cadence of events occurred for WWII — with cottage cheese recommended as a substitute for meat — which allowed the curdled delight to truly take off. Touted as the “skinny girl’s diet,” cottage cheese’s popularity exploded in the 1950s, with cottage cheese and fruit (such as pineapple or peach) becoming the healthy snack.

Consumption of the dairy delight peaked in the 1970s, with the average American eating approximately 5 pounds per year.

However, just as quickly as cottage cheese entered the spotlight, it mysteriously disappeared from the common cultural lexicon. This is due to another fermented dairy 14 bite | WINTER 2024

y Tribune

DITION 2024

AKES ITS COMEBACK

PRICE 0 CENTS

y Product a New Look

product winning the race: yogurt. Since the 1970s, yogurt has consistently eclipsed the once-famous cottage cheese in the United States. While both contain enzymes and probiotics which promote satiety and a healthy gut microbiome, Greek yogurt and the marketing that fuels the product has rendered yogurt more approachable, more welcoming, and an overall easier option for a healthy breakfast.

But now, what’s old is new again: the young are reclaiming cottage cheese. The reason? Tik Tok rescued it from Mom-Ville. While Tik Tok has sadly ruined every secret culinary neighborhood spot I love in New York City, I must admit that it has the innate ability to bring events, restaurants, places, and truly anything to the forefront of the cultural consciousness. With 150 million users in the U.S., many argue that Tik Tok has replaced Google as the search engine of choice for millennials and Gen Z. Just how Tik Tok influences fashion and makeup trends, the app also influences what we eat as a country, whether that be ‘Girl Dinner,’ a bell pepper and cream cheese sandwich, or baked feta pasta. Two influencers in particular have paved the way for cottage cheese on the app: Melissa BenIshay and Tiffany Magee. Melissa Ben-Ishay, the founder of Baked By Melissa, a company famous for their mini, bite-sized cupcakes, has become popular on Tik Tok through her healthy recipes. Many of these contain cottage cheese, like a cottage cheese lettuce wrap or her cucumber cottage cheese toast. The other Tik Tok sensation is Tiffany Magee, aka the “Mustard Lady,” viral for her questionable mustard and cottage cheese diet which boasts weight loss and healthy digestion. The mustard and cottage cheese mix is used not only as a dip for vegetables, fruits, and sausage but also as a tasty lunch plate for those interested in something quick, easy, and satiable. While these two individuals have widely popularized the cottage cheese craze, they are amidst the hundreds of others who frequently post videos with cottage cheese.

I used to laugh at Becca and Sam, but now I’ve converted. Now, in addition to yogurt, cottage cheese is my go-to snack. It doesn’t take much to keep me placated: a little (or big) dollop of Good Culture with a smidge of raspberry preserves, and I am at peace. Another favorite of mine is cantaloupe with a scoop of cottage cheese in the middle. Don’t always judge a book by its cover. What you think is your trash may end up being your treasure. https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/07/16/423207704/thefall-of-a-dairy-darling-how-cottage-cheese-got-eclipsed-by-yogurt.

By Cayla Volandes

features 15

LIVE ON STAGE: A DAY AT S.K.Y.

By Markis Cheng | Photos by Abbey Piatt Price

“Nerves” I was in a capricious mood when I decided to reach out to the culinary superstar, Tatum Sinclair, for a chance to stage (a day-long culinary internship). Having recently won Pastry Chef of the Year as head of pastry for S.K.Y., Apolonia, and Valhalla, she was perhaps the biggest culinary name in Chicago at the moment.

7:03 am Hey Tatum!

Hope your morning is going well Attempting to reach out one more time Fingers crossed for this stage

9:05 am A plain black T-shirt, non slip shoes, and any knives you have 1239 W 18th St., Next Friday, 2pm

16 bite | WINTER 2024

“Prep” As I stepped into the kitchen with my neon pink crocs, my confidence soured as black all-clad bodies focused to their attention to the only person foolish enough to wear pink. Amongst these trained assassins, I would be nothing but a liability - I would be eaten alive.

Tatum notices my initial trepidation, and reassures me - she would much rather have someone with no experience, as it is much easier to teach them the right way, her own way. For those who really want to work in the restaurant business, forget culinary school - shack up as a dishwasher and work your way up the ranks. I was already a leg up than most people.

I’m given my first task. Slice fresno chiles. My first opportunity to prove myself. I’m shown how thin to cut them, as they will be pickled and used for garnish later. My knife is embarrassingly unworn compared to the weathered knives wielded by the chefs around me, who boast Alinea, Monteverde, and Valhalla under their belt of experiences. Their newest challenge — watch the bumbling idiot (me) stupidly cut misshapen chile slices and spray seeds everywhere across their now unkempt prep station. Tatum and the chefs actively try to get to know me, asking me questions about my favorite foods, where I grocery shop, what I love to make. One chef asks me what my favorite restaurant is — I eagerly respond with an answer that isn’t S.K.Y., Apolonia, or Valhalla. Sheepishly, I reply S.K.Y. was the next planned restaurant visit.

The next two hours are filled with low stakes, albeit still important, prep tasks; Oblique cucumbers. Zest and juice lemons. Shell edamame. Pick mint. The menial is still work that must be done, work that becomes small details to be enjoyed later. My efforts are placed into deli containers and peppered across the various work stations in the kitchen - some pride washes over me as these will be used to make the dishes served later tonight.

“Family” Before the first reservation of the night, all of the front and back staff sit around to take family, a shared meal cooked by the chefs.

Today’s is assembled by Tatum - sandwiches made from leftover Apolonia baguettes, Costco ham, and Kraft singles. Divine.

The team, who have graciously adopted me for the night, invite me to sit in on their roundtable, a fun ice-breaker to quell the nerves and fill the silence before service.

As we sip water from our deli containers, we share foods that we could eat for the rest of our lives - potatoes, yogurt, ice cream - I realize I have much more in common with the assassins than I thought. My trepidations melt away as they nod in resounding approval to my answer - rice - though Tatum heavily disagrees.

WHILE FAMILY IS ONLY 15 MINUTES, I’VE ALREADY FOUND A HOME AWAY FROM HOME.

“Wisdom” Kallie, the general manager, leads pre-shift, a discussion between front and back house to explain the reservations coming through for the night and general housekeeping items.

We have a birthday at the counter for 8:30pm: it has to be absolutely perfect.

Shellfish allergy at 7:45. Glasses — filled always. We don’t have too many special events planned for tonight so do some digging when you’re at the table, it has to be the best…experience…possible. Again, a reminder, if they’ve been sitting and it’s taken more than five minutes for any of us to serve them, we’re doing something so terribly wrong, so I can only hope we are granted forgiveness. We are so lucky to be granted the privilege that the 104 people have chosen to dine with us. I’d know places that would kill for far less.

This was rather eye-opening, to see how meticulous a restaurant is, in giving their diners the best experience possible. Complete strangers are catered to like family, and each one is always treated with respect even when they may not necessarily command theirs. To them, they do not merely serve food, but experiences, memories to be kept and cherished over a lifetime. I straighten with pride; while I won’t be on the frontlines of service, I burst with an urge to do my part.

Pre-shift is always concluded at S.K.Y. with a quote and an emotive gesture. Today, Logan, a food runner, presents us with his quote.

WISDOM CANNOT BE GRANTED. IT MUST BE EARNED, HE KARATE CHOPS, HIYA! WE SCREAM IN UNISON, HIYA!

“Service” The vocabulary of the kitchen has been reduced down to that of “Behind,” “Corner,” and various food items from the kitchen.

I merely stand on the sidelines as I watch orders being put together in a robotic fashion, each dish the exact replica of the one that went out before it. There is no lack of love however: eyes stare more intently at each dish more than the last. With intricate construction and composition, plating is as respectable an art form as painting.

Inevitably, I’ve become too much of a liability in the kitchen — I am a cog unfit for the well-oiled machine of the S.K.Y. kitchen.

Tatum graciously hosts me at the bar, where I am treated to a delightful end of the night meal, and her specialty, where sweet borders the realm of savory, her Black Truffle Pavlova. A bite and I’ve transcended — so this is the magic that happens behind those glorious kitchen doors.

I am filled with a new-found respect, an appreciation for a craft where there is truly no better satisfaction than a job well done for those who practice. As diners, we take dining in restaurants for granted, pretentiously picking apart the intricacies of a creative process we can barely engage in ourselves.

Like how we may pay homage to works of art, the plates placed in front of us deserve the same respect. features 17

By Stacia Konow

18 bite | WINTER 2024

“This Sauvignon Blanc has notes of clementine and jasmine and a minerality that echoes the Mediterranean sea. Pair with a white fish or light salad.” You have likely read a similar inscription on the back of a wine bottle in a grocery store, perhaps while grasping at straws for the wine you are supposed to serve your guests at a dinner party. Do wine pairings really make a difference, especially for the untrained (or at least non-sommelier) palate? In this article, we will delve into the science behind wine pairings and learn some tricks for successfully wining-and-dining your guests.

Wine is a chemically complex beverage. Changes in alcohol content by even half a percent or by what time of day the grape was harvested can be the difference between bitter and sweet, full-bodied or light, tannic or metallic. However, one does not need to consider all of those factors when choosing a suitable wine for a meal. One of the most important qualities to consider is balance. Wines should complement the food it is served with, not overpower it. This balance is best achieved by thinking of the wine as a palate cleanser. Tannins, a biomolecule in wine, are able to bind to proteins and other organic compounds, effectively inactivating them. This means that a very tannic wine (usually described as producing a dry sensation on the tongue or mouth) will be able to balance a meal high in protein or fat: this is where the idea of red wine and red meat going together originates from. Red wine tends to be higher in tannins than white wine because reds usually involve more skin contact in the fermentation process, and tannins come from the skins of grapes in this case. By sipping a tannic wine such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux between bites of red meat and potatoes, one can cleanse their palate and appreciate the more complex flavors in the meal, which are signs of an effective pairing. At the end of the meal, guests will (hopefully) feel impressed with the intricate profile of the dish, satisfied with the food, and eager for another glass and further festivities.

White wines tend to be more acidic, which can also be a palate cleanser. Acids can help reset the natural pH of the mouth after a fatty meal, which raises the pH level. However, white wines typically lack the tannic structure of red wine, making the experience lighter. This is why white wine is often paired with fish; fish are high in fat but have a delicate flavor, so they need a light and simple palate cleanser.

Carbonation is also an incredibly effective cleanser. That is why coffeehouses and wineries alike often serve sparkling water between tastings. Palate fatigue is caused by taste receptors becoming desensitized, so providing not only new flavors but new sensations can help to activate them in a different way, regaining their sensitivity to the subtle flavors in the main meal. Think of having a Coke and a cheeseburger—the Coke is more refreshing when sipped between bites of a rich burger than on its own. Thus, sparkling wines can be a refreshing pairing to highlight complex dishes, perhaps a sparkling white with brown butter and sage gnocchi to bring forth the herbiness.

However, science does not take us much further than this. The rest of the wine pairing decisions are left to preference. Some suggest pairing a very mineral wine with fish since the brininess of both the wine and the fish will evoke the sea more strongly, but some find this to be overwhelming. Some prefer to save aromatic wines to be enjoyed on their own since they are complex in their own right, but some say having them with fruit enhances the notes within the wine. Though it can be daunting, that is the beauty of wine pairings. There is so much room for creativity and novelty, which is the true art of what cooking is all about.

features 19

THEMED FOODS

A (Semi) Economic and Psychological Analysis 20 bite | WINTER 2024

If America knows how to do one thing right, it’s an innovative, brightly-colored treat. Halloween delivers chocolate-covered pretzels with eyes resembling spiders and “mummified” cookies with white frosting.

Christmas and Valentine’s Day transform everything into bright pink and red hearts, while St. Patrick’s Day brings a surge of neon green rice krispies treats and sugar cookies. These intrinsically American sweets, although seldom crafted at home, dominate local grocery stores and restaurants, prompting the question: what fuels America’s obsession with themed treats and movie experiences?

The search for a tasty meal or snack often leads us to ponder secret ingredients or perfect cooking techniques.

But let’s expand our perspective. What truly makes food enjoyable? It goes beyond Grandma’s secret recipe or the extra two minutes for those perfectly-crispy chocolate chip cookies. Food is an experience, influenced not just by taste but also by the environment, colors, and psychological effects.

Countless studies highlight the importance of appearance, particularly color, with regards to food. A food science study conducted in 2003 delves into the structure and pigmentation of food, concluding that the quality of appearance is determined by factors like illumination, intensity, and surface reflectance. Physical structures, such as geometric shapes (think Halloween marshmallow spiders), and intense colors (like the bright orange marshmallow Peep), trigger psychological processes that enhance our desire for and enjoyment of food.

Charles Spence, a psychology professor at Oxford University, explores the environmental impacts on food experiences. His research suggests that factors beyond the actual food, such as utensil weight and the length of a dish’s name, also shape our dining experience. Notably, mood plays a crucial role – people in a bad mood miss certain ingredients and may not enjoy food as much.

Telling jokes before a meal, according to Spence, acts as a “palette cleanser” and enhances the dining experience.

This insight applies to our overall obsession with holiday seasons that put people in lighter, happier, and more cheerful moods. Not to mention, the back-to-back holidays of Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas create a joyful atmosphere, potentially influencing our love for themed treats by associating them with happy holiday times.

While some might find this intuitive, the research isn’t exclusive to fine dining experiences; it applies to simpler, more basic food experiences, such as the movies. Going to the movies is not necessarily a one-stop-shop for an upscale dining experience or excellent food; instead, it’s associated with classic indulgences like greasy popcorn, crunchy Sno-Caps, and sweet ICEE drinks. In the past year, a captivating trend has surfaced alongside globally acclaimed blockbuster movies: popcorn movie merch.

This phenomenon has swept through theaters, offering exclusive licensed merchandise from AMC theaters – think Mean Girls (2024) “burn book” popcorn tins, Spiderman Across the SpiderVerse (2023) popcorn mask buckets, or even a Beyonce Renaissance (2024) plastic ICEE cup. Despite their seemingly trivial nature, this merchandise has evolved into rare collectibles.

Fueling the obsession is a simple matter of exclusivity.

Those who attended events like the Taylor Swift: The Eras Tour movie within the first week found these themed buckets already sold out due to the limited supply. Movie theaters, particularly AMC and Cinemark, have capitalized on this trend, with up to 40% of movie merchandise sold before the lights dim and the film begins. The high-demand merchandise drops have even birthed eBay pirates, who capitalize on the reselling of items at higher prices in the secondary market, leaving fans eager but empty-handed. The Dune Part Two sandworm bucket, for instance, fetched as high as $110 on eBay (original buckets range from $25 - $30). At the end of the day, these obsessions with popcorn buckets all go back to psychology: those creative, colorful popcorn receptacles immensely influence our culinary experience.

Even if you don’t consider yourself a popcorn-bucket aficionado or a neon-green cookie consumer, ultimately, food is an experience. The environment, colors, and psychological effects influence our perception of a dish or snack. So grab that popcorn, or heart-shaped sugar cookie, and get munching.

By Zoe Kim Illustrated by Ana Estupinan features 21

Celebrating Citrus

BY RILEY YATES

BY RILEY YATES

ILLUSTRATED BY JULIE KANG

‘Tis the Season ‘Tis the Season

During these bitter months of winter, the long, warm, and bright days of summer seem so far away. The last thing I’m thinking about in these single-digit temperatures? An ice-cold glass of refreshing lemonade. While I love the drink, I naturally place it alongside summer and sun in my brain — mixing Chicago polar vortexes and lemonade seems sacrilegious. In the common cultural imagination, nothing says warm weather quite like citrus fruit. It might be that the bright sunset shades of lemons, oranges, and grapefruits just lend themselves nicely to the summer color palette or that the tart and tangy flavors are often the stars of popsicles and sorbets, but no other season seems to complement citrus like summer does. If winter is here, citrus has fallen off my radar.

As it turns out, winter, more than ever, is the opportune time to be intentional about citrus intake. The University of California Davis Center for Nutrition in Schools says the optimum time for citrus is between October and March1. The benefits of citrus are immense: for one, vitamin C is a hero for the immune system, which the body lacks during the dismal winter months. Vitamin C also aids in the health and complexion of skin. Not to mention, the fiber in

1

Anonymous. 2019. “It’s Citrus Season! | Cns.” Cns.ucdavis.edu. October 29, 2019. https://cns.ucdavis.edu/news/its-citrus-season.

citrus aids digestion, lowers cholesterol, and can even potentially ward off neurodegenerative diseases. Citrus has pretty much got you covered, head-to-toe.

For a sun-deprived college student, lemons and oranges are the most popular citrus fruits and probably the easiest ones to integrate into a busy schedule, but if a grapefruit a day is your ritual of choice, more power to you. There are plenty of small ways to bring a little lemon into your life. Adding freshly-squeezed or store bought lemon juice, or the lemons themselves, to your water or tea can give you the antioxidant benefits lemons provide while also helping you stay hydrated. Lemon zest sprinkled over vegetables or fish can expand the dish’s flavor profile while also giving your plating potential an upgrade.

Oranges are, without a doubt, the easiest way to acquire all the citrus benefits. With so many types of orange to choose from, like the triedand-true tangerine or the kumquat, the opportunities for oranges to make their way into your diet are essentially endless. A tangy splash of orange juice or a few orange slices with your breakfast in the morning serves as a refreshing start to the day, but a clementine in your bag for an afternoon snack will also do the trick.

The moral of the citrus story is that you shouldn’t wait until the temperatures rise to enjoy all the benefits these citrus fruits have to offer. Winter serves as an opportunity to get crafty in the kitchen and find new ways to zest up your diet.

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HONG KONG STYLE FRENCH TOAST prep 35 minutes

cook 40 minutes

makes 1 per 3 slices

GET Milk bread 100g or 7 tbsp butter 60g or 5 tbsp powder sugar 4 salted egg yolks 30 ml or 2 tbsp whole milk 80g milk powder 3 cups blackberries 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 cup sugar

BY KAI SCHIRMACHER PHOTOS BY AUTHOR

Have you ever wanted to show off your cooking expertise so much that your friend’s next brunch will never live up to it? If you want to ruin every future brunch that is planned or will be planned, you have come to the right recipe. This dish combines a love for all things savory through salt-cured eggs with the lusciousness of milk bread, melding these two opposing forces to provide a massive flavor bomb that will keep you thinking of this for the rest of the day. One of Hong Kong’s greatest breakfast delicacies combined with a top-ten dim sum item: here is the brunch recipe to end all brunch recipes.

DO For egg custard 1. Separate the egg yolks from whites 2. In a tray, cover the bottom with about 1/2 in. of salt 3. Form round indentations about the size of the yolks 4. Place yolks in indentations 5. Cover with salt 6. Leave for 8-12 hours 7. Remove from salt and bake in oven for 1 hour at lowest oven temp 8. Steam egg yolks for about 5 min on high heat then mash til smooth 9. In another bowl, cream sugar and butter 10. Add milk, mashed egg yolk, and milk powder and mix until combined (the

mixture thoroughly resulting mix should be still 17. Fill a pot with sufficient runny) oil to fry the bread 11. Shape it into a rectangle/ square, smaller than the bread, 18. Heat to 350 F and let chill for an hour or up 19. Deep fry until golden brown until the next day (great for preparing ahead of time) For the sauce 20. Place blackberries, For the finishing lemon, and sugar in a 12. Get three slices of bread, and pot and bring to a low cut a square out of the it the simmer same size as your egg custard 21. When blackberries are 13. Using melted butter, brush softened and the sauce is both sides of the cut out bread thickened, take off heat and one side each of the two whole slices For the assembly: 14. Assemble the bread with filling stuffed inside 22. Place the toast on a plate 15. Get a shallow bowl or sheet and drizzle with sauce pan and mix and egg inside 23. Enjoy!

16. Cover the bread with the egg RECIPES 23

MOTHERS & DAUGHTERS 구전 전통 AN ORAL TRADITION

One of my earliest memories with food is eating 미역국 (miyeok guk or seaweed soup) on my birthday. In Korean culture, miyeok guk was traditionally eaten by pregnant women because of its nutrient-rich broth and ingredients. The seaweed, itself, represents birth and is rich in calcium, fiber, protein, vitamins A, B1, B12, C, D and E, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, folic acid, and omega3. The country’s history of consuming miyeok guk on birthdays comes from the idea of honoring mothers and their sacrifice on the day they birthed you. And for me, a second-generation Korean-American, birthdays are incomplete without a bowl of my mom’s steaming hot, seaweed soup made from a well-seasoned beef broth.

It was a few years ago when I realized that I eventually had to learn to cook for myself, since I could not rely on my mom’s homemade stews, braised meats, and banchan for the rest of my life. Moving into my own apartment was a daily scramble for what to eat, when to eat, and where to eat. I was far away from home and clueless on how to make any of the foods I had grown up eating. I resorted to texting my mom for advice on how to make specific soups or recipes I remembered eating as a child but still never succeeded in making my cooking taste like the real thing from home.

On my 21st birthday, my parents flew out to Chicago to celebrate my legality. When my mom arrived at my apartment, she pulled out a huge plastic sheet of miyeok (dehydrated seaweed) from her suitcase and instructed me to begin re-hydrating the seaweed to make miyeok-guk.

She carefully taught me how to toast the seaweed with garlic, sautee the beef, and bring together the rich combination of flavors once so familiar to me. Thus, upon turning 21, I had the chance to eat miyeok-guk on my birthday for the first time since I had moved out for college.

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When my mom teaches me how to cook, she doesn’t use measurements. Like most ethnic cultures, Korean cooking is made to taste and is remembered through oral tradition. Recipes are not written down; they’re remembered and passed down when, historically, a mom teaches her daughter. You know when the food is made right because it tastes comforting; it reminds you of your childhood and the food your mom cooked for you. You know to add salt because it’s 싱거워 (bland) or add water because it’s 짜 (too salty).

And in this way, the simple act of my mom instructing me how to make this soup so that I could have my birthday the way I always remembered, was a part of my family’s oral history being passed down through women: from her mom and my grandma’s mom and my great grandma’s mom, and so on. A lack of exact measurements and the difficulty of explaining the desired taste over writing, means that it is difficult to successfully teach a Korean recipe over text or on the phone; my mom has to be there guiding me every step of the way, tasting it to make sure it’s right. Every Korean family makes different dishes, or even the same dishes in different ways, so the way a recipe is taught, is crucial to family tradition. While I am not destined to follow in my female ancestors’ footsteps and become a homemaker, learning these oral traditions are an important part of reclaiming my cultural history that has been lost by living in America, not knowing the Korean language, and being disconnected from the culture of my ancestors. Food is one of the purest forms of cultural history, and despite the fact that I live in an entirely different country that my ancestors did, these recipes live on.

Now these recipes are taught in English, cooked over gas stoves in America, and passed down to a westernized college student with littleto-no homemaking skills, but still, I am the next piece in a long line of history of mothers and daughters.

PREP 15 minutes COOK 25 minutes MAKES 5 bowls

GET

1/2 lb beef brisket sliced into small bite sized strips 1 cup dried miyeok (also sold in Japanese markets in pre cut small pieces called wakame), soaked for about 15 min in hot water 2 garlic cloves finely minced 2 tbsp Anchovy soup base (or 2 anchovy broth pellets) 2 tbsp soup soy sauce (or 1 T regular soy sauce) 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 10 cups of water Optional: shiitake mushrooms and cooked mussels

DO

1. Soak dried seaweed or wakame in hot water for 15 min. After 15 min, drain and cut into bite sized pieces (if not already pre-cut).

2. Slice 1/2 lb beef into bite size pieces. Salt beef and saute with garlic and sesame oil in a large soup pot on medium heat.

3. Add soaked, cut-up miyeok and soy sauce. Saute for about 5 minutes.

4. Add 10 cups of water and anchovy soup base to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and keep covered for about 20 minutes or until beef is more tender.

5. Add salt to taste.

6. Optional: add dried or fresh, sliced shiitake mushrooms and mussel meat for a deeper richer flavor (can be found in the frozen section of Asian markets).

7. Ladle and serve hot.

미 역 국 FROM MY MOM

SEAWEED SOUP

Written by 유하나 Abby Yuhan Illustrated by Abbey Piatt Price

RECIPES 25

DUCK CONFIT

BY CONOR BLOCH

PHOTOS BY AUTHOR Filled with long french words and ever-complex techniques, the art of cooking has been a mystifying, daunting craft to many. After years of cooking in a professional kitchen and eventually creating recipes of my own, I have added these intimidating techniques to my repertoire. One that I have practiced and learned most recently is the art of confiting.

First originating in southwestern France as a way to preserve goose and duck meat, it later became very popular and was first published in Henriette Davidis’s “Practical Cookbook.”

After hearing of this technique, chefs around the world quickly adopted this style, putting it on their menus for new guests to try. After years of trial and error and countless iterations, the technique of confit has all but been perfected. At its roots, to confit means to cook in its own fat, but there are many ways to elevate that simple process.

Confiting a protein can be elevated by simply adding herbs and aromatics to the fat during the process. Often that protein is duck, which I will be discussing here. A combination of garlic and rosemary can add subtle yet noticeable flavors that permeate into the duck’s flesh. The process can be as simple as that or drastically advanced by curing or aging the duck beforehand to further influence the final flavors of the dish.

When making duck confit in the past, I cured the dark meat to allow the seasoning to steep all the way into the protein over the course of a few hours.

Like all dishes, they can be altered, becoming more difficult as one becomes more advanced in the kitchen. It is important for all home cooks to understand how dishes can be scaled, not only for portion sizes but also in terms of complexity. Once someone is able to master the skills necessary to manipulate

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recipes to their tastes, they can begin to create a complete dish around them. While it may seem like a daunting task, it begins with breaking each component into its basic categories.

Since duck confit is rich and fatty, it’s important to incorporate components to cut through the fat. When I made my duck dish, I served it with pickled fennel, a persimmon jam, and an orange gastrique I mixed with a stock from the duck bones.

Each component played a crucial role on the plate, adding to the layers of flavor in the dish. The fennel and gastrique helped cut through the richness, and the persimmon jam added a layer of sweetness to counteract the salty meat. The gastrique also complemented the duck flavors as it was mixed in with the stock. Since the stock was homemade, I was able to control all of the flavors, thinking ahead of how I wanted the final sauce to taste.

Given that I have been cooking since I was 15, I understand a bit more than the average home cook, but there’s always plenty more for me to learn. It is important to never give up; cooking is a discipline of trial and error. You will fail many times before you are able to succeed, but that just makes the dish taste that much better.

GET Herb Salt: ½ cup kosher salt 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 2 bay leaves, broken into pieces 1 tablespoons chopped thyme ¼ cup pack flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 teaspoon black peppercorns Eight 8-ounce whole Pekin (Long Island) duck legs 6 to 8 cups rendered duck fat, melted

DO

1. Make the herb salt: combine the salt, sugar, bay leaves, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns in a small food processor and process until well combined. Set aside.

Pull away and discard any excess fat from the duck legs. With scissors, trim the excess skin near the bottom of the legs and around the edges, leaving at least ¼ inch overhang of skin.

2. It is important to know the weight of the duck legs when salting them, so that you do not oversalt them; the correct ratio is 2 tablespoons of herb salt to 1 pound of duck legs. Rub about 1 tbsp herb salt over each leg, rubbing a little extra on the thicker parts and around the joint. Put the legs flesh side up in a single layer in a baking dish that holds them comfortably (use two if necessary), cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 6-8 hours.

3. Position an oven rack in the center of the oven, put an oven thermometer on the rack, and preheat the oven to 190°F (it is important to check the heat from time to time while the legs cook to be certain that the oven maintains the proper tempera-

ture).

4. Rinse the legs well under cold water and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Layer the duck legs (no more than 2 deep) in a 9 to 10 inch heavy ovenproof pot with a lid. Add enough melted duck fat to cover the legs and heat over medium heat just until the fat is warm.

5. Cover the pot, transfer to the oven, and cook for 8 to 10 hours. Check a duck leg by carefully lifting it from the fat and piercing it with a paring knife: the meat should be meltingly tender. If necessary, return the duck to the oven for up to 2 hours longer, checking the legs frequently (if they cook for too long, they may fall apart when they are sautéed). Remove from the oven and let the duck cool in the fat.

6. Gently lift the legs from the fat and place in a storage container. Strain the fat over the legs(but not the juices, which will have sunk to the bottom). They should be completely submerged in fat: if necessary, transfer them to a smaller container.

Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

7. When you are ready to serve the duck legs, remove the container from the refrigerator and allow it to sit at room temperature for an hour or two to soften the fat enough to remove the legs without breaking them apart, or microwave them just long enough to soften the fat.

8. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Set a cooling rack over a baking sheet.

9. Pour some duck fat into each of two large frying pans and heat over high heat until very hot. (If you have only one large skillet, brown the legs in 2 batches). Arrange 3 legs in each pan, skin-side-down, and cook, without moving them, for 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the skin is richly browned, about 3 minutes.

10. Carefully transfer the duck legs, skin-side-up, to the cooling rack and put in the oven to heat through, about 10 minutes.

11. Enjoy!!

RECIPES 27

TOMATO ACINI DI PEPE PASTA

BY ELENA THOMAN PHOTOS BY ELENA THOMAN ILLUSTRATIONS BY AUDREY KAYE

prep 10 minutes

cook 15 minutes

makes 2-3 servings

This recipe has been my go-to easy, weeknight recipe for cold winter nights in Chicago. Pastina, a classic Italian comfort food that uses the tiny star shaped pasta, won over my heart last year. Because of its small size, pastina creates a more porridge-like texture, and cooking it in chicken broth leaves it tasted like a warm bowl of chicken noodle soup. Looking to try something similar after the pastina pasta shape was discontinued by Ronzoni, the original pastina brand, I tried out Acini di Pepe, which are tiny pasta balls that are like a slightly smaller and more firm version of couscous. Rather than just recreating the classic Italian pastina with chicken broth and parmesan, I wanted to bring some of my favorite flavors from other pasta dishes I had tried using tomato, garlic, and onion. I have also found that adding some extra acidity through balsamic and the umami from soy sauce deepens the flavor profiles of tomatobased pasta dishes. The result was a bright, yet deeply rich and hearty soup dish that I now make on a regular basis.

GET 1 cup Pastina Or Acini Di Pepe Pasta 2 shallots, (finely diced) 4 cloves garlic (minced) 4 tbsp tomato paste 3 cups chicken broth 2 tsp balsamic vinegar

6 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp soy sauce (optional) 1 cup grated parmesan Salt and pepper, to taste Basil, to garnish 1 tbsp chili oil, to garnish (optional)

DO 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

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Add half of your olive oil to a hot saucepan pan on medium-high, add shallot and cook until translucent (approximately 2 minutes), then add garlic Once shallots and garlic are fragrant, add tomato paste and your pasta, stir and let it sit for 1-2 minutes (stirring constantly to prevent burning) Add chicken broth, balsamic, soy sauce, salt, and pepper. Stir. Let come to a boil, then turn the heat down to medium low and let it cook until the pasta is almost al dente (approximately 8 minutes).

Add your parmesan and stir again until the cheese is melted. The sauce should be the consistency of a thick broth, and there should still be some liquid that has not absorbed into the pasta Serve with more black pepper, basil, grated parmesan, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive or chili oil on top

BUTTERSCOTCH TOFFEE PIE

BY KALLIE HOFFMAN

PHOTOS BY AUTHOR

GET

Crust 1 ½ cups graham crackers, crushed 2 tbsp white granulated sugar 1 tbsp brown sugar 7 tbsp butter, melted Pie 2 3.4 oz. boxes Butterscotch Instant Pudding mix 1 ½ cups cold milk (2% or whole) 12 oz. whipped topping 3 tbsp butterscotch topping 1 cup hot fudge, warmed ½ cup toffee bits

There is no food sweeter, creamier, or more delicious than the taste of fresh butterscotch. Not to be confused by the widely ubiquitous flavor of caramel, butterscotch has the advantage of buttery, rich undertones thanks to the addition of molasses and melted brown sugar. This pie I whipped up combines all the best and easiest ingredients for any ordinary college day, with a light Graham cracker crust and a fluffy inside of delicious whipped cream, melted hot fudge, and dreamy butterscotch pudding. Just when you think this dessert has reached its limit on decadence, it is topped with crunchy English toffee and even more whipped cream and butterscotch. This recipe is perfect for bakers of all levels — since it does not even require the use of an oven — and involves ingredients that are easily accessible at all grocery stores. Got a sweet tooth? This dessert is right up your alley! Just be careful though: look away for one second, and your yummy pie might be all gone. prep 40 minutes cook 6-8 hours

makes 8-10 servings

DO For the crust: 1. Pulverize the graham crackers until finely ground into crumbs.

2. Stir together the graham cracker crumbs and sugars in a medium-sized bowl.

3. Add melted butter and combine ingredients until everything is moist.

4. Pour mixture into a 9’’ pie plate or round pan. Use your fingers to pack the crumbs tightly into the bottom and sides of the pan.

5. Refrigerate or freeze for 10-20 minutes before filling with pie contents.

For the pie: 6. Spread the warmed hot fudge along the bottom of the pie crust. Place the crust in the fridge to chill and set the fudge.

7. In a large bowl, add the milk, butterscotch sauce, and the pudding mix. Beat with an electric mixer until well combined (~2 minutes).

8. Fold in 4 oz. of the whipped topping.

9. Remove the crust from the fridge and spoon the pudding mixture into the pie shell until it is spread out evenly.

10. Top the pie with the remaining whipped topping, sprinkle on the toffee chips, and drizzle on some additional butterscotch topping.

11. Place in the fridge uncovered for 6+ hours, or until fully set and congealed.

12. Enjoy!

RECIPES 29

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