UCA Epsom Fashion Magazine 2015

UCA EPSOM FASHION

2015 ISSUE

‘One doesn’t want fashion to look ridiculous, silly, or out of step with the times - but you do want designers that make you think, that make you look at fashion differently.

That’s how fashion changes. If it doesn’t change, it’s not looking forward. And that’s important to me.’

Anna Wintour

welcome So as our final year students reach the final stages of their journey on the BA (Hons) Fashion course, a new adventure in their professional life is about to begin. It may not always be a smooth ride and at times it may be challenging when trying to gain the first break within the fashion industry!

However, our students thrive on challenge and possess a strong belief in their individual creativity, equipped with the essential skills and determination needed to reach their own careers aspirations.

During the three years our students spend with us they learn, not only about fashion, but about themselves as creative professionals. They learn how to nurture their own creativity and push boundaries within their design field, whilst developing a personal design identity that is innovative and responsive to commercial needs.

The rigorous learning environment that students are exposed to on the course has equipped them with essential skills in critical thinking, problem solving and persistence enabling them to find creative solutions, whether within their design discipline or their professional life.

At UCA Epsom individual guidance and tutoring by the fashion course team, each of whom has a wealth of industry expertise and specialist knowledge within the field of fashion, has helped to shape our students’ creative and professional development.

Every year we send our young independent creatives out into the ever-changing world of fashion, equipped to take on any challenge that may face them and to succeed in whatever fashion career path they choose.

So finally, welcome to PROFILE, our annual publication in which we celebrate the innovation and vision created by our wonderful fashion students, for your perusal and reflection. On behalf of the course team we wish the class of 2015 every success and good fortune in the next step of their professional life.

Please also visit our course website www.epsomfashion.com to review our most recent online graduate design portfolios and to find out more about our award winning BA (Hons) Fashion course at UCA Epsom!

STEVEN DELL

Course Leader BA (Hons) Fashion

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Sarah Brooker French Lace sponsored

by Sophie Hallette

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Poppea Bowie

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Heidi Stuttard

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Danielle Wilson

Holly Cooney

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Chelsea Henry

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Tutiqka Watson

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Charlotte Ambrose

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Laura Roberts

Shreyaa Mavani

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Francesca Harris

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Nicole Ranger

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Laura Nice

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Hannah Williams

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Named by Vogue as a designer to watch, that was her. Winner of Graduate Fashion Week ‘Best Womenswear’ and ‘Fashion Innovation’ awards in 2013, that was her too. Oh and let’s not forget honorary recipient of the MUUSE Special ‘One to Watch’ Prize, because that was her too. It is safe to say that, University for the Creative Arts, 2013 graduate, Hannah Williams, is an exceptional talent that has been unleashed into the industry.

Yet for some, the hype hits, the celebrations reel out, but their designs merge into the mundane and disappear within an instant. However, Williams is not a talented flame that is set to fizzle out any time soon. She has spent the past two years following on from her skyrocketing summer of emergence mastering skills even further. Williams is now studying a Master’s at The Royal College of Art, London in a bid to hone her talents and skills on material innovation. “UCA taught me so much, but I was intrigued by the innovations I started with silicone for my graduate collection, that I really wanted to

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Interview by: Elizabeth Mitchell

develop my knowledge of materials even further. I would definitely say I am more of a materials designer now. I just can’t wait to reveal my Master’s collection this summer to present my new experimental work,” says Williams.

If her graduate collection, which was a concoction of garments made from moulded silicone casts, is anything to go by, then there’s no knowing what creation Williams will conjure up next.

For her graduate collection Williams cleverly took inspiration from sculptor Daniel Arsham and the era of 1920s show girl costumes, but there was nothing dated about her design concept: her collection was futuristic, technical and above all ground-breaking with her unique take on the material.

“The ugly is what catches my eye.

It’s the unusual qualities of things that don’t appear pretty at first glance but there’s something that draws me in and inspires me to transform it”, says Williams.

So with her cutting-edge designs so far and her mighty trajectory of achievements, Williams is not just Vogue’s, she is everyone’s one to watch.

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James Kelly

Interview by: Calister Chishanu

Whilst conducting his degree in Fashion at UCA Epsom James was able to gain insights into the fashion industry and its creative practices. This is where he acquired his first experience of what it was like to be a designer; for him it was a reality check and he learned many useful traits in designing that he still applies to his collections.

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In the future he plans to continue to develop his distinct design aesthetic and expand his womenswear label internationally with Fashion Scout providing business mentoring and sponsoring support for the next few seasons. Watch this space‌..

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James Kelly graduated from the BA (Hons) Fashion course at UCA Epsom in 2012. He is currently developing his own fashion label with Fashion Scout.

James won the Fashion Scout Merit Award in 2014 and with this prize he was awarded a sponsoring of 3 seasons collection funding, as well as a show at London Fashion Week and showrooms in both London and Paris.

After graduating from UCA he went on to study MA Womenswear at the Royal College of Art. He was selected as a finalist for the H&M Design Awards 2015, out of over 400 graduating students. Initially he was selected as a semi-finalist to travel to Stockholm and showcase his Royal College of Art graduating collection to the H&M design team. After the showcase he was chosen as one of the final eight to present the collection to a prestigious industry panel which included Lucinda Chambers, Luella Bartley and Justin O’shea.

Junaid Nasar Gull

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“I came to UCA thinking I was going to be this very glamorous, womenswear designer, now look at me,” says Junaid Gull Nasar, UCA Epsom Fashion graduate, 2014. From starting off with an Elie Saab vision, to now having a more J.W Anderson aesthetic, what a difference a few years make. So with his developing style that he was discovering in his final BA menswear collection at UCA, it comes as no surprise, with his creative mind, that his next step would be a Master’s at Central Saint Martin’s. “It took me three years on my BA to realise I wanted to be a menswear designer and now I feel like I’m truly honing in on my identity with my Master’s” he says.

Despite the sequins and theatrical style that he initially produced, Nasar’s design ideas have now become a more playful approach with bold colours and patterns. “I don’t like fashion to be too serious maybe because I don’t take it seriously myself. I will quite happily and confidently walk out in the pyjamas I’m wearing right now”, he says laughing.

Nasar may like to reveal a childish glee in his designs but his professional mind is most definitely not naive. He knows exactly what kind of designer he wants to become and the qualities he needs to achieve this. Flamboyant, quirky and boxy silhouettes; this is what he’s holding onto and refining to become a part of his arsenal.

Even though Nasar may be wrapped up in this dazzling adventure, he does not want to be defined as a costume

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Interview by: Elizabeth Mitchell

designer. “I’m really interested in ethnic inspirations and Pakistan, which I turned to for my graduate menswear collection and I’m still referencing that now in my new work, but I don’t want to be bracketed or stereotyped,” he insists. Nasar is all about finding new ways to present historical looks and concepts. For instance, when looking at Pakistan for his graduate collection, Nasar delved into the indigenous paintings of truck art, wanting to explore it further. His designs may be as captivating and as vibrant as the traditional art but his collection is completely modern with the use of neoprene, PVC and leather.

With his BA success, Nasar owes his confidence in his work to the support at UCA. “I’m learning so much at Central Saint Martin’s and it’s a truly amazing platform but my breakthrough really came at UCA. The network of tutors and industry professionals cannot be faulted,” he insists. “God knows where I would be without them. Most probably still trying to hopelessly sew sequins onto that couture ball gown.”

So, a heady dose of positivity and gumption are the foundations of his design success. Nasar, is finding all these hidden gems of inspiration and we can’t wait to see his next collection.

Yet, above all of his undeniably cool designs, Nasar is just a humble designer wanting to perfect his “not too serious” style. So it wouldn’t be surprising, what with his jovial demeanor, that he would step out to take his final bow for a collection suitably and confidently wearing his pyjama’s like the true designer he is.

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Lucy Elgee

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Charlotte Johnson

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Lorna Harrington

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Nagathe Rubingisa

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Georgia Thorne

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Zahra Azam

Interview by: Elizabeth Mitchell

When you think of prints in fashion, images immediately conjure in your mind of the garish Aztec prints certain high-street shops tend to saturate shop window displays. However, when it comes to University for the Creative Arts 2014 graduate, Zahra Azam, prints present an entirely new vision and meaning.

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Azam has absorbed a variety of cultures throughout her life. From living in New Zealand, London and also Thailand, she has taken inspiration from across the globe into her design aesthetic.

Her cultural vibe particularly shone boldly through in her graduate collection last summer which, as she says, “clashed culture, colour and cloth”.

Azam’s graduate collection was a tribal feast with an urban twist and she even got chosen to present her collection at the ‘Best of Graduate Fashion Week’ catwalk show. Despite, her collection being inspired by traditional African Art, Azam infused a technique and style that was particularly modern. Well, by modern I mean the 1980s. Now the 1980s fashion scene and African Art is probably not one’s idea of a cohesive fusion, what with the neon-injections into the traditional ethnic prints, but Azam mastered it perfectly. “I just love immersing myself in vintage stores to find inspiration and creating crossbreeds with all these styles and cultures that I’ve come across over the years”, she says.

Unique combinations are not just evident in her designs but her working method too. Azam loves to collaborate.

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“When I was at UCA, I loved the atmosphere, where all of the students were able to come together and help each other out”, she shares. Azam, who is now studying a Masters at Central Saint Martin’s, has also recently collaborated with fellow student Paul Thompson. “Paul is a textile designer and our creations ended up on the catwalk at London Fashion Week this February, which was beyond what I could have ever imagined” she says.

Azam is striving for excellence and one day hopes to show at London Fashion Week with her own collection. Yet, despite propelling her to success, she acknowledges that experience is the key to honing her designs and her Masters is allowing her to do just this.

“I’ve progressed so much since the start of my Masters and I’m really enjoying investigating what makes my designs tick”, says Azam.

Even though Azam is stitching a stylistic storm in London, what with the amount of opportunities she has had, her desire to travel cannot be ignored. “Last summer after the craze of GFW, I also applied for the Council of Fashion Designers of America+ award in conjunction with ArtsThread, which helps young designers have a link with America. I was so thrilled when I found out I was awarded with it, and hopefully that will bring some exciting possibilities in the future!”

So across the pond and not forgetting her cross-cultural designs, Zahra Azam cannot wait for what the future holds.

One thing is for sure, that her brilliantly innovative and bold designs will most definitely not just end up hidden in the overcrowded high-street rails.

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Imogen Bowman A SERIES OF FORTUNATE EVENTS. The UCA graduate talks about success and the pleasures of delving into new territories.

Imogen recalls her time at university as invaluable and having had a profound impact on her understanding of design, “we were treated as young professionals from the off-start and through UCA’s constructively critical teaching methods, I developed a thick skin for which I am grateful - now that I am working in the industry,” she comments.

She also adds that during this period, she learnt to develop a strong design identity, which is conceptual. She is fascinated with bold silhouettes, intricate detailing and clothes with a backstory, like her designer icons Cristobal Balenciaga and John Galliano.

She also lists contemporary designers, Phoebe Philo and Christopher Kane as

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favourites for their fresh contemporary vision. But her inspiration isn’t just limited to her field of work, it also derives from a variety of sources: from art, cultures to textile surface manipulation, but ultimately “it really depends on what you’re working on at the time, there are no limits on where you source inspiration,” she says.

What may seem to some like obstacles, Imogen greets as positive challenges.

For instance, her bold silhouettes are a stark contrast to Zimmerman’s soft and feminine garments; but it was because of that they hired her, to offer a fresh perspective and insight. “I am fortunate to have found a company willing to take on fresh graduates and train us up,” she says of the opportunity.

“It will make me a better designer to be able to think outside of the hypothetical box that I naturally am drawn to,” she adds. It’s an endearing quality, to turn threats into positive exciting experiences and lessons-learned; it shows an open-minded character with a keen willingness to learn and an ambition to grow.

So what does the future hold? Imogen will continue on her role at Zimmerman with New York on the agenda for the foreseeable future and a possible return to London eventually. “I guess it is about constantly setting myself new goals to reach, so that I appreciate and acknowledge my successes, but don’t settle for long or get too comfortable,” she concludes. Just as her mantra suggests, the goal is to keep moving forward.

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How do you measure success?

For Imogen Bowman it’s not by the acquisition of material goods, but rather “it is about being happy with where I’m at and what I’m doing in that moment, currently I feel successful and content with my achievements since graduating,” she says. Where’s she at right now is Sydney, Australia working as a Design Assistant at the womenswear brand, Zimmerman. What was initially a trip down-under, “as a post-graduation break from reality” turned into an internship at Ellery followed by her current position.

Interview by: Jane Chanakira

Bianca De Csernatony French Lace sponsored by Sophie Hallette

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Priya Ahluwalia

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Paula Talja

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Naba Shan

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Alexandra Wall

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Annabel Dowsing

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course profile

COURSE STRUCTURE: Year 0 Introduction to Creative Practices Independent Practices 1 Discovering Design Independent Practices 2 Year 1

The BA (Hons) Fashion course is one of the leading fashion design courses within the UK, with an international reputation for producing world-class talent, where our students graduate with the essential creative, professional and practical skills to further their design career interest within the Fashion Industry.

We have created an environment for our community of students to be able to collaborate with other like-minded creative individuals studying at UCA on our Fashion, Fashion Promotion and Imaging, Fashion Journalism, and Fashion Management and Marketing courses, which seeks to nurture cross-disciplinary practices and reflect the professional working environment.

The BA (Hons) Fashion course at the Epsom Campus is a highly desirable place to study with a friendly, dynamic and creative community of students studying across a wide range of fashion related courses and is ideally located with close proximity to London.

The philosophy of the course aims to provide a friendly, creative and professional learning environment that enables our students to be inquisitive and experimental within their design thinking and within their practical work. Our students are encouraged to take risks and engage in a wide range of creative projects that seek to support the development of their professional skills and innovative design practice for the globalmarket place.

Our teaching focus is placed upon the development of versatile and adaptable fashion designers who are equipped with the essential skills and knowhow to be able to respond to both conceptual and commercial briefs, underpinned by a sound knowledge of the fashion industry and a critical understanding of the social, cultural, economic, sustainable and environmental factors influencing their professional environment.

Students on the course also develop a wide range of practical skills within areas of pattern cutting, garment manufacture, drape, tailoring, fabric manipulation, and constructed textiles, as well as professional image making and visual communication skills within areas of design drawing, illustration work and use of mixed media, photography and styling, portfolio presentation and computer aided design, which are all key to the distinctive quality and success of our fashion graduates.

Our fashion graduates progress with transferable and holistically formed expertise, which prepare them for postgraduate study or to establish their careers within the global fashion industry equipped with comprehensive employability skills for a highly competitive and constantly changing employment market.

Introduction to Design Visual Communication Creative Cutting & Construction Introduction to Design History & Theory Year 2 Innovative Design Practice Creative Drape Practices Professional Practice (Work Experience) Theories of Culture, Identity & Communication Year 3 Final Major Project (Opt 1): Pre-Collection & Final Collection or Final Major Project (Opt 2): Industry Design Focus & Brand Design Innovation Professional Portfolio Dissertation CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: The diverse range of career paths that our fashion students successfully progress onto after graduation, is a testimony to the versatility and breadth of experience gained on the course, and include menswear designers, womenswear designers, trend forecasters, design consultants, stylists, brand and product developers, design studio managers, fashion illustrators, fashion textile designers, creative pattern cutters, garment technologists, production managers, fashion buyers and merchandisers.

Steven Dell Course Leader BA (Hons) Fashion www.epsomfashion.com www.ucreative.ac.uk

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Simon Holden, Formalwear Designer at John Lewis GRADUATE DESTINATIONS: Suzzie Wong, Design Director at Ralph Lauren (NYC) Loukia Hay, Head of Design at Matthew Williamson Siri Johansen, Mens Knitwear Designer at Kenzo (Paris) Emma Golley, Senior Designer at Julien MacDonald Margherita Mazzola, Design Assistant at Gareth Pugh Emily Harris, Studio Manager at Henry Holland Courtney McWilliams, Senior Menswear & Print Designer at Givenchy (Paris) Nick Paget, Senior Designer at TopMan

Harriett Edmunds, Studio Assistant at Diane von Furstenburg (NYC) James Walker, Menswear Designer at Hunter Gather Sarah Griffe, Trend Research and Development at Arena International UK Tej Sopal, Head of Menswear at Store Twenty One Iryna Mikhailovich, Creative Director at Artefact Fashion Alice Parigiani, Senior Menswear Designer at Bagir Antonia Lloyd, Designer at Tim Soar Natalie Robertson, Womens Apparel Designer at Puma Dora Szilagy, Senior Designer at Adidas (Germany)

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Lisa Homewood, Sample Developer at River Island Christina Wilson, Womenswear Designer at River Island William Hamil, Senior Menswear Designer at Cos Olivia Coskie, Menswear Designer at French Connection Georgina Elliott, Menswear Designer at Ben Sherman RECENT POST GRADUATE DESTINATIONS: Junaid Nasar (MA Menswear) Central Saint Martins Zahra Azam (MA Womenswear) Central Saint Martins Hannah Williams (MA Womenswear) Royal College of Art James Kelly (MA Womenswear) Royal College of Art Mariapia Mineo (MA Fashion) Royal Danish Academy of Arts Jacqueline Wattanajantra (MA Fashion Marketing) University for the Creative Arts Vihdi Doshi (MA Fashion Promotion) University for the Creative Arts in September 2012.

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Sofia Makridi, Design Consultant at Charles Philip (Shanghai)

Katie Barrett, Menswear Design at Fat Face

WE CREATE AWARD WINNERS

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Naomi Ingleby CFDA+ Accreditation Finalist 2014 Imogen Bowman CFDA+ Accreditation Finalist 2014 Poppy Gooderick CFDA+ Accreditation Finalist 2014 Zahra Azam CFDA+ Accreditation Finalist 2014 MA Womenswear at Central Saint Martins Sarah Blake Biddle Sawyer Silk Award Winner 2014 Brooke Grindlay MUUSE + Vogue Talent Award Finalist 2104 Munuse Agagil MUUSE + Vogue Talent Award Finalist 2014 2nd Prize FDC Radical Designer Award 2014 Lavinia Cadar Graduate Collection Presented at The Houses of Parliament & at UKFT Awards Alice Bennett Paul Smith + Design Factory Finalist 2014

Melanie Pace-Lupi Urban Outfitters Accessories Award Winner 2014 Paul Perez Gibraltar Fashion Week Award Winner 2014 James Kelly Fashion Scout ‘One to Watch’ Prize 2014 MA Womenswear at Royal College of Art Hannah Williams Fashion Scout + MUUSE Special ‘One to Watch’ Prize 2013 GFW Best Womenswear Award Winner 2013 GFW Fashion Innovation Award Winner 2013 MA Womenswear at Royal College of Art Danya Sjadzali All Walks Diversity Now Award Winner 2013 Mariapia Mineo Fashion Capital Fashion Innovation Award Winner 2012 MA Womenswear at Royal Danish Academy Ulyana Danyleyko Sabotage Designer Award, LVIV Fashion Week 2012

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Gfw Best Womenswear Award Winner 2013: Hannah Williams was winner of the GFW Best Womenswear Award, presented by designer Todd Lynn during the Gold Gala awards ceremony at Graduate Fashion Week, for her “exceptional level of innovation.”

“We thought that Hannah’s collection was extremely original very photogenic, modern and innovative using great new techniques in fabric innovation which can be seen through accessories and shoes,” said Cathy Edwards, Fashion Editor at Dazed & Confused.

‘The BA (Hons) Fashion course at UCA Epsom is an award-winning course with graduates winning national GFW awards and progressing to MA courses, in addition to jobs due to their experimental and creative approach. The work produced is at the higher end comparable with the best courses in the London Area’ Elinor Renfrew, External Examiners Report 2013-14

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PUBLICATION DESIGN bb-studio.co.uk Special thanks to following members of staff and contributors to the course for their hard work, dedication and continued support provided to the BA (Hons) Fashion course at UCA Epsom: VICE CHANCELLOR Simon Ofield-Kerr EXECUTIVE DEANS Mark Little Roni Brown HEAD OF SCHOOL Thomass Atkinson ASSOCIATE DEAN Lee Widdows COURSE LEADER Steven Dell COURSE TEAM Barbara Baum Phil Rowland John MacLachlan Gary Kaye Ezinma Mbonu Anette Fischer Amber Brierley Neville Kemp

PHOTOSHOOT Styling: Simone Konu Stylists Assistant: Sophie Dampier-Jones Photography: Lakin Ogunbanwo Photography Assistant: Ross Alexander Hair: Josh Knight using Bumble and Bumble Make Up: Daisy Harris-d’Andel Set Design: George Lewin Assistant Set Design: Bryony EdwardS, Chelia Batkin, Cecilia Mccormick MODELS Mily and Raina @ SUPA Model Management Will Chenery @ Models 1 A special thank you to Sophie Hallette for the kind sponsorship of French Lace for two of our womenswear collections by Sarah Brooker and Bianca De Csernatony.

Copyright 2015 University for the Creative Arts All copyright, design rights and other intellectual property rights in our designs and products (and in the images, text, and design of this book) are and will remain the property of UCA. Any infringements of these rights will be pursued vigorously.

VISITING LECTURERS Emma Randles Simone Konu Richard Kilroy Erin Petson Colette Moore Danielle Wood Dan Li Laurie Yule Robert Leach Sarah Morrell Neil Elliott TECHNICAL TEAM Valentina Elizabeth Sue Turoff Mandy Fairbrother Danielle Dooey Liz Wilson TECHNICAL COORDINATOR Tim Hinton Andrew Dinnage CONTEXTUAL STUDIES Liz Mason

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www.epsomfashion.com www.ucreative.ac.uk

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