70% isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol/rubbing alcohol). The alcohol will evaporate quickly and help remove any water trapped in the crevices; it will also remove many non-water-soluble residues. Now the part is ready for whatever alteration method you choose to use.
Sharpies Markers (paint or ink - Sharpie) are especially good for small color changes. Broad coverage is a challenge and they are not permanent regardless of what the manufacture states. These are best for quick coverage of small areas that will not see much wear unless you clearcoat them. However, they can be used to alter part color for smaller parts and are likely the cheapest way to do so. If you use this method be sure to use even strokes across the part, and once dry, clearcoat the part with acrylic paint to protect the ink. If you are after a temporary color alteration, this is your method of choice. Sharpie ink can easily be removed with a touch of rubbing alcohol, unless the alcohol-resistant version is used (which has a special red label). The best use of a sharpie marker I have seen is to alter a light flesh minifigure head to yellow. I also commonly use Sharpies to add boot details to the bottom of LEGO legs. These are easily touched up in the case of wear and you can easily decal over sharpies once it is dry and clearcoated.
Paint Paint is the most widely used method to alter LEGO part colors. There are two types of paint: enamel and acrylic. Enamel is an oil-based paint that will dry slowly and requires paint thinner to clean up. Enamel can also have strong odors. If you are using it in any volume, be sure to take frequent fresh air breaks. Acrylic paints are water-soluble, meaning they are thinned and clean up with water, as long as they haven’t completely dried. It is because of these two factors that I recommend acrylics.
Orc Space Marine Captain by Michael Marzilli.
I can not emphasize enough the power of primer. To achieve the best color result, primers are critical. I prefer Citadel’s Skull White primer. Be sure to use light spray as the primer layer will be part of the paint buildup. When using paint, it is best to apply it in thin layers and build to the final finish. This will make a stronger finish overall and leave the least amount of buildup on the part. Buildup is the accumulation of paint on the part and when visible, it noticeably detracts from the final custom figure. It is better to apply three thin coats than one or two thick coats to an element to help avoid this. There are two basic ways to apply paint: with a bristle brush or an airbrush (or spray can). If you have an airbrush (or you can find the desired color in a rattle aerosol can), you likely already know it is a wonderful way to apply paint to broad areas. Cheap airbrushes are all you really need like ones that use small compressed cans of air or a Preval Sprayer. Slowly sweep across the part applying three sequential thin coats of paint (allowing the paint to dry between coats). If however, you don’t have an airbrush, adequate results can be achieved with a bristled paint brush with a bit of patience and practice. I prefer nylon-bristled brushes. Follow the recommendation above and use several thin coats. Be sure to give each coat plenty of drying time before application of the next coat. Painting takes practice, so you might want to try a few test pieces before painting your rare LEGO element. Having your paint properly thinned is also critical; this is easy when using acrylic paints. Simply remove a small amount of paint and place it in a small cup, add water slowly till it is easily and smoothly applied to the surface of the part you are attempting to paint.
Hand-painted details add to Ghostbuster’s figure, by Michael Marzilli
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