Exploring the world-class - yet less-travelled - resorts of Japan’s Tohoku region
CONQUERING THE CANADIAN BACKCOUNTRY
Get set for a remote ski touring adventure in the wilds of British Columbia
GUIDE TO GLACIER SKIING
Expert Bruce Goodlad on the magic, the challenges –and all the gear you’ll need
Exposure
Daniel Tschofenig soars to ski jumping glory with picture-perfect form
The hidden side of Japan
Exploring the world-classyet less-travelled - resorts of Japan’s Tohoku region
Serving up a treat
We travel the ancient Via Salaria and discover an alpine foodie’s heaven
Skiing with an exotic twist
Andreas Hofer sets off on a mission to ski in the High Atlas
La vie d’un pisteur
We spend a day with the pisteurs who patrol Tignes’ Tovière sector
Parallels and brushstrokes
Celebrating the work of mountain artist Peter Spens
Conquering the Canadian backcountry
Angus Maciver embarks on a remote ski touring adventure
Table talk
We chat with Snow Camp founder Dan Charlish Resort of the month
Discover what the French resort of Les Saises has to offer
Eco watch
A deep dive into the practice of snow farming
Mountain news
The latest from the world of ski
BETTER SKIING
How to / with Warren Smith
Teach your friends to ski steeps
Guided by Goodlad
Skiing on a glacier: Bruce Goodlad has all the information you need to stay sharp and have fun
Goodlad's gear
The glacier skiing kit you need to invest in this winter
Kit doctor
Special report as two major brands announce a voluntary recall of avalanche transceivers
On test
Ski-Mojo and touring kit put through its paces
Kit guide 2025
The latest off-piste and touring gear
New
Reps spread
News from the Club’s repping scene this winter
Rep diaries
Bill Ashford shares his passion for Méribel
Meet the team
We chat to more members of Ski Club HQ
Club news
The latest news, offers and events for Members
Ask Chemmy
Chemmy Alcott gives her thoughts on skiing’s GOAT Mikaela Shiffrin
the
NICOLA ISEARD EDITOR
“Two hours up, 12 minutes down!” This was the climbingto-descent ratio a friend relayed to me for a route he skied recently. On the face of it, that appears to be a whole lot of work for a rather meagre reward. A chairlift gives you about a 1:1 up:down ratio in elapsed time – that instantaneous delivery of the prize must translate to a better day's skiing, right?
Club’s rich history
No marks for guessing what any dedicated backcountry skier will tell you; to judge the experience on the 'minutes up' versus 'minutes down' would be to miss the value of each of those minutes. There is something about planning a route, hiking up a mountain for your turns – the mental and physical persistence required, the sense of satisfaction (relief!) at reaching the top – that you just don't get riding a chairlift. All the while, there are hoards of piste-bashing carvebosses and park-rats who use the lift purely as transport to reach the starting gate of their personal challenge. And here, I suppose, is where skiing reliably drops in as a metaphor for life-experience, once again. Life is richer with challenge. It just is. And perhaps that is what all of us are seeking out there, in our own way.
In this issue we have gathered a couple of our favourite backcountry stories from last season: Angus Maciver's Canadian backcountry expedition to wilds of British Columbia (page 36), and Andreas Hofer's exotic ski touring journey among the High Atlas of Morocco (page 22). Meanwhile, the Club's Alpine Safety Advisor, Bruce Goodlad, has put together the ultimate guide to glacier touring and skiing (page 56). We also have Snow+Rock's top picks of the best powder and touring gear of 2025 (page 66-74).
Whether you're a seasoned backcountry goer, or are taking your first tentative steps into the realm of ski touring, we hope the challenge you find is the one you've been looking for.
Pointy Hills Media Ltd, 1 West Street Business Park, West Street, Stamford, Lincs PE9 2PL
DISTRIBUTION
Browns Print
ISSN 139-8826
SKI // The Ski Club Magazine is printed by Browns Print and managed by Tusk Design Studio
All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permission of the publisher. All prices are based on information available at the time of going to press. Opinions expressed in SKI // The Ski Club Magazine are not necessarily those of the Ski Club of Great Britain, nor does the publisher accept responsibility for advertising content.
Welcome
a world of skiing
from James Gambrill, Chief Operating Officer
One of the most wonderful things about snowsports is the sheer range of places it can take you. While we are lucky enough to have the Alps just a short journey away, the sheer range of destinations where you can slide down mountains is mindblowing. Take Japan, with its 700+ resorts (read about a few of them on page 12); or Canada, where the world-famous resorts of Whistler and Banff only represent a fraction of the possibilities provided in the immense Canadian backcountry (as Angus Maciver discovered on page 38). It’s actually possible to ski or snowboard in every continent on earth, from the Atlas Mountains in Africa (where Andreas Hofer ventured, on page 22) to the Southern Alps of New Zealand - and that’s what keeps so many skiers coming back for more; no matter how long you ski for, there’s always somewhere new to explore. Even staying closer to home, the opportunities for new discoveries are endless if you take the leap into backcountry and off-piste skiing. Our consumer research shows that more British skiers are exploring the mountains beyond the marked pistes than ever before. Whether you’re an experienced tourer or venturing past the piste markers for the first time, getting the right kit is essential (the experts at S+R have got you covered on page 70). Modern tech has spawned skis that make powder and off-piste skiing more accessible than ever, while the latest advances in safety kit can
Even staying closer to home, the opportunities for new discoveries are endless if you take the leap into backcountry and off-piste skiing
also minimise the inherent risks of moving away from the patrolled zones – as long as you know how to use it… But here again tech can play a part, with online courses such as those provided by WeMountain helping you learn to get the best from your new kit, from the comfort of your home. How exactly though do resorts keep the marked runs safe in what is still an unpredictable landscape, especially in high mountain and glaciated areas? We dive behind the scenes with the Tignes piste patrol (page 27) to learn more about how they achieve the seemingly impossible of taming the mountains to keep skiers and snowboarders safe. Wherever you choose to ski or snowboard, the mountains provide some of the most unique and inspiring landscapes on the planet, and yet in reality only a few people get the chance to experience them. One man who has done more than most to open up this opportunity to many is Dan Charlish, founder of Snow Camp, the charity that changes lives for underprivileged kids by taking them from the inner cities of the UK to the stunning mountains of the Alps (read more about his mission on page 44). Last October, at the London Snow Show, the Club was delighted to recognise Dan’s incredible achievement by awarding him the Pery medal, the Club’s highest award for services to snowsports. The mountains are for the many, not the few, so see you on the slopes very soon! ❚
THE WORLD’S WARMEST BASELAYER ®
Japanese baselayer brand Zero t has created a range of game-changing, best-in-class products that allow skiers and snowboarders to stay warm and comfortable all day on the slopes, even in the coldest of conditions.
Designed by a passionate team of innovators and baselayer specialists, the Zero t Heatrub Ultimate is the most technically advanced baselayer on the planet and completely di erent to any other product you’ve ever worn before.
WHAT MAKES IT SO GOOD?
1. It’s ve times warmer than a standard baselayer
That is quite a claim, but it’s a fact. Tested at the iconic Boken Institute in Osaka, the Heatrub Ultimate baselayer recorded a Heat Retention Rating of 0.78; a standard product would have a rating of between 0.1 to 0.14, while a jumper would typically have a rating of 0.3. The Ultimate performs best in a temperature range of -10° Celsius thru 10° Celsius, making it an essential piece of kit for the whole season.
2. Instant warmth the moment you put it on
A standard baselayer traps body heat between your skin and the material, so it takes a little time before you feel the bene ts. With the Heatrub Ultimate, ve separate fabrics, along with a patented knitting process, create instant warmth as soon as you pull it on. While other brands rely on compression for heat, our unique fabric mix means you don’t need the tightness in order for it to work, making it super comfortable too.
3.Fewer layers, greater warmth and freedom to move
The Ultimate is the ideal product for skiers and snowboarders who dislike traditional tight baselayers. Previously, you may have ‘layered up’ in order to combat the cold –however, bulky layers can restrict your movement, but this is where we are changing the game. The Ultimate is so good at keeping you warm, you won’t need these multiple additional layers.
4. Heat Threads for all-day comfort
Innovative ‘Heat Threads’ positioned on the inside of the garment gently rub against your skin as you move, which creates positive warmth across your body. We also produce Heatrub Ultimate Leggings, Socks and Gloves that are made from the same so material and work in the same way. The products are so comfortable, you can wear them all day, too.
Five times warmer than a standard baselayer
No need for multiple additional layers - a gamechanger
The Ultimate baselayer is perfect for the coldest of conditions, but it is complemented by the Heatrub Move (£40), which is twice as warm as a standard baselayer and ideal for more active and accomplished skiers and snowboarders who will build up a sweat. The Move features a 45% polypropylene construction on the inside of the baselayer and a hollow polyester shell that combine for this concept of ‘Adaptable Warmth’, keeping you cosy when you’re at a standstill yet regulating temperature and ensuring you don’t overheat as the day goes on. The construction removes sweat from the skin and evaporates it o the surface of the baselayer quickly, so that nasty feeling of ‘cold sweat’ never materialises.
We also have matching Heatrub Move Leggings (£45) that feature the same technology as the baselayer.
Photo: Nekoma Snow Park Resort
Daniel Tschofenig soars to ski jumping glory with picture-perfect form
The hidden side of Japan
Exploring the world-classyet less-travelled - resorts of Japan’s Tohoku region
Serving up a treat
We travel the ancient Via Salaria and discover an alpine foodie’s heaven
Skiing with an exotic twist
Andreas Hofer sets off on a mission to ski in the High Atlas
La vie d’un pisteur
We spend a day with the pisteurs who patrol Tignes’ Tovière sector
Parallels and brushstrokes
Celebrating the work of mountain artist Peter Spens
Conquering the Canadian backcountry
Angus Maciver embarks on a remote ski touring adventure
Table talk
We chat with Snow Camp founder Dan Charlish
Resort of the month
Discover what the French resort of Les Saises has to offer
Eco watch
A deep dive into the practice of snow farming
Mountain news
The latest from the world of ski
Photo: JFK / Red Bull
E X POSURE
BISCHOFSHOFEN, AUSTRIA
SKIER DANIEL TSCHOFENIG LOCATION
Legs dead straight, skis perfectly positioned, arms outstretched like wings… Daniel Tschofenig soars to glory with pictureperfect form at the Four Hills Tournament of the FIS Ski Jumping World Cup in Bischofshofen, Austria, on 6 January 2025.
The 22-year-old produced a stunning comeback to claim his first FIS Ski Jumping Four Hills Tournament title with a dramatic victory in his homeland. What had been dubbed the ‘battle of Bischofshofen’ between Tschofenig and his Olympic gold medal-winning Austrian team-mates, Stefan Kraft and Jan Hoerl, certainly delivered for the 14,500-strong capacity crowd.
After three events, just 1.3 points had separated the trio heading into the finale,
with Kraft leading and Tschofenig in third. Tschofenig knew he needed to produce one of the jumps of his life to have any chance of victory. And he did – he pulled off a spectacular second-round jump of 140.5m earning him top points.
Tschofenig took World Cup victory, as well as the Four Hills Golden Eagle trophy, with Hoerl and Kraft placing second and third respectively – just the third time in the history of the prestigious 73-year-old competition that Austria has attained a clean-sweep of the Four Hills Tournament podium.
“ I didn’t believe it, I didn’t think I had a chance [of winning],” said Tschofenig. “It’s really indescribable.” ❚
apan is now firmly established as the UK skier’s top dream destination, according to recent research by the Ski Club and Mountain Trade Network. When asked why, most talk about the quality of the snow – the fabled Japanese powder, or ‘Japow’ that blankets so much of the country each winter. Almost as many mention the cultural experience of skiing in Japan, how different and exotic it seems as a destination, and what it may offer beyond that famous snow.
Doubtless, when most UK skiers think of Japan they are thinking of Hokkaido, the northernmost of its main islands and home to Niseko, now probably the most famous resort in all the country. Hokkaido’s northerly aspect and proximity to Siberia means it does tend to get the best of that legendary powder, as storms building across the vast landmass of northern Russia cross the sea of Japan and drop their white bounty on the volcanic peaks of Hokkaido.
Niseko’s recent development, however, is more antipodean than Japanese, as its popularity with Australians has exploded in the past 20 years (there are now as many Australian-owned hotels and properties as there are Japanese). So, while doubtless a fantastic destination for any skier, for those looking for the more authentic and cultural side of Japan, are there other options?
The short answer is yes, hundreds. In fact, Japan has over 700 ski resorts. The volcanic nature of the entire Japanese archipelago means you are never far from a mountain, and where there’s a mountain, you can almost always find a ski resort. Sure, many are tiny, with only one or two lifts, but the Japanese Alps on Honshu, lying west of Tokyo, also boast world-class resorts, including Hakuba and others in the Nagano region, home to the 1998 Winter Olympics. These still remain well off the radar for many UK skiers, however. ❱❱
The hidden side of Japan
That dream ski trip may be much more accessible than you think, says James Gambrill…
THE VOLCANIC NATURE OF THE ENTIRE JAPANESE ARCHIPELAGO MEANS YOU ARE NEVER FAR FROM A MOUNTAIN, AND WHERE THERE’S A MOUNTAIN, YOU CAN ALMOST ALWAYS FIND A SKI RESORT
A RIOT OF COLOUR
Last winter I travelled to Tokyo to explore the Tohoku region. After a direct flight from Heathrow to Tokyo, nothing wakes you up more than the quick taxi trip from the airport to Tokyo central station. Tokyo delivers everything you would expect from the Japanese capital: a riot of colour, tech and energy, spotlessly clean, and with a real sense of excitement; this is somewhere very, very different. Tokyo central station is one of the key hubs for the Shinkansen, the Japanese bullet train that is the backbone of transportation in all of Japan. While there is little in the way of English signage, finding staff who speak English has got easier, and they are unfailingly polite and helpful. Once you’ve found the platform, the Shinkansens run to time with Swiss-style efficiency, and there is step-free access from platform to train, making it easy to get on board even with luggage and skis. Once on board, your luggage stays with you and the pre-booked Shinkansen seats are supremely comfortable. Less than two hours after landing, I was heading north, out of Tokyo and towards the city of Yamagata. The bullet trains are aptly named –they reach a top speed of almost 200mph, meaning distances are quickly reduced; having landed at breakfast time I was in Yamagata in time for lunch, with a quick taxi ride up to the nearby resort of Zao Onsen. Many ski resorts in Japan include ‘onsen’ in their name, as this refers to the natural hot springs that abound throughout Japan, especially in the mountains. In fact, many ski resorts like Zao have been popular holiday destinations for hundreds of years, thanks to the universal appeal of the onsens. Zao is one of the most famous, and features some of the most revered springs in all of Japan. There’s no mistaking this on arrival, where the pungent smell of sulphur pervades the resort. While something of a shock on arrival, you quickly become used to it, and even charmed by its distinctive aroma!
Zao is one of the largest resorts in the area, with 57 slopes, three gondolas and several interlinked ski areas. Be warned – like many resorts in Japan, several of the chairlifts are single seaters and few have safety bars – it's all part of the exotic experience. Zao’s skiing is mostly quite mellow, but as in much of Japan, it’s the snow, not the slopes, that visitors come for.
Go if you want a true Japanese experience, with iconic food, incredible snow, easy access from Tokyo, and very few others to share it with…
POWDER ON TAP
And what about that snow? When I arrived in Zao, it was snowing gently, but as I went to bed the storm intensified and when I woke up the next morning there was at least 50cm of fresh snow on the ground at resort level. Despite the jet lag, I raced to the restaurant with a plan to grab a quick breakfast and get on the mountain before everything was skied out. Strangely, no one else was rushing their breakfast. In fact, the restaurant was serene, as is so often the case in Japan, because food is a serious business here. Despite my impatience to get on the snow, I couldn’t help but be fascinated by the range of breakfast options, most of them totally unfamiliar. In this part of the Japan the food is very regional, with few options beyond traditional Japanese dishes. For most people, this is no issue, as the offerings are superb. Fish is staple and a breakfast of soup, fish and eggs turns out to be pretty perfect to set you up for a morning on the mountain. I headed to the main gondola, and again was struck by how quiet it was – no one was jostling for position, everyone was heading slowly and quietly up the mountain. Yet as we rose in the gondola, it was clear we were all in for something special: there was even more snow at the top. When I finally clicked into my skis and prepared to push off for my first taste of skiing in Japan, it was well past 10.30am. And yet what lay in front of me was a piste full of completely untracked snow! While off-piste options exist, they are out of bounds in many Japanese resorts – but who cares when the pistes are full of powder and there’s no one else around?
Admittedly 2024 wasn’t a vintage year for snow in Japan, and although deep, it wasn’t the superlight Japow of legend. But still, for my first run in Japan, 50cm of fresh on-piste isn't bad!
Zao is a charming place and offers a truly authentic Japanese experience. The skiing is fairly ‘tame’ by European standards, though in most years the snow will be everything you would expect in Japan, and you probably won’t have to share it! A natural onsen following a day on the mountain is the perfect combination, and with incredible restaurants anyone looking for a full cultural immersion won’t be disappointed. ❱❱
THE JAPANESE LAKE DISTRICT
Heading south back towards Tokyo, you move from the Yamagata area into Fukushima Prefecture. Fukishima is sadly now best known for the horrendous earthquake and subsequent tsunami in 2011 that caused extensive damage to the coastal area and Daiichi nuclear power plant. However, the mountainous area inland was unaffected and is completely safe to visit now. In fact, this is one of the most beautiful parts of Japan, known as the Japanese Lake District, but dare I say even more stunning. The area is home to a number of resorts, but of most interest to UK visitors is Nekoma Mountain resort. Nekoma was originally two separate mountains separated by a ridge, but since the acquisition of both by Hoshino resorts, one of the leading hotel and resort operators in Japan, the two areas have been linked by chairlift creating one of the largest ski resorts in Honshu. The two areas are now named ‘North' and 'South’, and of course this brings the advantages of different aspect slopes, allowing skiers to move around the mountain according to weather patterns to always find the best snow.
The scenery is utterly breathtaking, dominated by the majestic Mt Bandai, a stratovolcano and one of the most famous peaks in Japan. It’s almost impossible to get off a lift and not stop and stare for a few moments at the incredible views that unfold in every direction.
The skiing’s not bad either. Again, you won’t find the steeps of Chamonix here, but there’s plenty to keep good skiers occupied for a week, especially when the snow is either perfectly groomed packed powder or, on the ‘natural’ slopes, left to accumulate into waist-deep powder.
Despite only spending two days in Nekoma, we were treated to another overnight snowstorm, and once again there was almost no-one on the mountain the next morning, providing a powder experience from the top of every lift. In fact, Nekoma is the perfect place if you’ve not had much experience skiing powder and want to learn in a safe environment. You don’t have to venture off-piste and worry about safety, and you’ll get to ski untracked snow all day long. For more experienced skiers there is talk of opening up Mt Bandai for ski touring, which would be incredible – and, given the abundance of as-yet undeveloped mountain area, it would firmly place this area on the map for every skier from intermediate to expert. For now, go if you want a true Japanese experience, with incredible snow, easy access from Tokyo, and very few others to share it with. At the current exchange rate, it’s also incredible value for money, so worth comparing the cost with a week in North America or even a mainstream European resort. See you there? ❚
No one jostling for position. Everyone heading slowly and quietly up the mountain. Untracked snow at 10.30am… This place is rather special
TRAVEL: James flew from London to Toyko with British Airways (ba.com). For info on the Shinkansen visit eki-net.com
STAY: James stayed at the Bandaisan Onsen Hotel in Nekoma, owned by Hoshino resorts (hoshinoresorts.com/en/hotels/bandai), which offers doubles from £38 per night. Youshitsinoyu Hotel in Zao (oohira.co.jp/en) offers rooms from £42 per night (two sharing).
INFO: Day passes at Zao and Nekoma start from £39 and £30 respectively. For more info visit fukushima.travel
Remarkable moments in the mountains.
Create everlasting memories amidst the breathtaking mountains at Hotel Edelweiss & Gurgl, the ultimate destination for a magical winter getaway in Tyrol.
www.edelweiss-gurgl.com
What makes Hotel Edelweiss & Gurgl special:
Ski-in / Ski-out convenience at 1,930 meters: Perfectly situated next to the slopes in the heart of Obergurgl.
Tradition and service since 1889: Experience genuinely friendly and competent staff.
Perfect delights for all the senses: Enjoy our sumptuous culinary offerings and luxurious spa area.
A magical winter escape in Tyrol!
Discover the perfect hotel for an enchanting winter escape in Tyrol at Hotel Edelweiss & Gurgl. Nestled in the heart of Obergurgl at an impressive altitude of 1,930 meters, our hotel offers pure luxury and elegance. Guests can enjoy our opulent rooms and stylish suites, unwind in our expansive spa area, and immerse themselves in the magical winter wonderland surrounding us.
Hotel Edelweiss & Gurgl provides exceptional 4-star superior service, ensuring every need for an unforgettable ski holiday is met. With our prime location right next to the ski slopes, guests can enjoy a ski-in/ski-out experience. The Obergurgl-Hochgurgl ski resort guarantees snow from mid-November to early May, making your skiing adventure truly extraordinary.
SERVING UP
From the snowy slopes of the Milky Way to the cliff faces of Mondovì, SKI’s Henry John travels the ancient Via Salaria and discovers an alpine foodie’s heaven
The snow started falling thick and fast at precisely 8.30am that morning. The brilliant white contrasted with the terracotta brown walls and cobbles of Mondovì’s medieval streets. Under the clock tower, stood watching over this quiet corner of North Western Italy 150m above the new town far below, the streets turned white in a heartbeat; the small square, which gave way to the streets of new Mondovì sitting some 150m below the clifftop piazza, were blanketed in a moment. Snow had finally come to Piemonte. From mid-January throughout February, artificial snow had borne the brunt of unseasonable, spring-like conditions throughout the region, with double-digit temperatures and plenty of sun wreaking havoc. All that changed mid-February, with feet upon feet of snow falling in the space of a few hours. From too little to too much snow (resulting in the closure of ski lifts), we just couldn’t find luck anywhere we looked. As a result, our ski trip turned into something a little more… Italian. A foodie romp through medieval Italy, circling a corner of the country less travelled, and with a local cuisine far less well known than pizza and pasta – but equally resplendent and delicious.
THE ANTIPASTO
Mondovì is the medieval heart of Italy. At every turn, 1,000-year old churches stand guard over piazzas, palazzos and superlatives: one of these churches is the spectacular regal mausoleum of the Sanctuaria Santa Maria, built on the site of an old hunter’s shrine. Capped with the broadest elliptical dome anywhere in the world – and on a list of ‘broadest of any shape’ with St. Peter’s and the
Pantheon – the fresco that adorns its interior depicting the stations of the cross in wooden, renaissance 3D, is the largest ever completed by a single team of artists. It is from here that the Dukes of Savoy took their first steps towards Turin and, eventually, the Italian throne in the heart of Rome. The growth of Turin at a pivotal time in Italian history means the region is not accorded the same affection as Bologna or Florence. The incomplete octagonal colonnade surrounding the Sanctuaria is a remarkably prescient symbol of this shift, but the sands of time are slowly beginning to ebb and flow around the incredible history of the region. The town’s medieval prowess came from its unique location. The Po River drains into the Mediterranean on the far away Adriatic Sea coast, around 50 miles southwest of Venice. Follow the delta and eventually the river course hundreds of miles inland, and you will cross the whole of Northern Italy, past Verona, Milan and Turin, the beating heart of Italian industry and ingenuity, farming and fashion. At its very end, its headwaters rise in Piemonte, literally ‘the foothills’, where the Alps turn south then east to block the river’s course from Genoa. Here, you will find Mondovì, Cuneo and Vicoforte, as well as the ski regions of Prato Nevoso and the Milky Way. Salt passing through this thin strip of the Alps from the Mediterranean Sea, heading to the wider region and over to France, had to pass through this small slice of river plain, the merchants carrying it paying fealty and taxes to the local lords. This hybrid mountain-plain setting, and the maritime influences brought from the Mediterranean, has given Piemontese cuisine a unique flavour: something you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in the world.
A TREAT
CUISINE A UNIQUE FLAVOUR
THIS HYBRID MOUNTAIN-PLAIN SETTING, AND THE MARITIME INFLUENCES BROUGHT FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN, HAS GIVEN PIEMONTESE
What better than a foodie romp through medieval Italy, circling a corner of the country less travelled, and with a delicious local cuisine: think rich cheese boards and Piemontese classics
PRIMI PIATTI
Prato Nevoso is a small ski resort around half an hour from Mondovì, or an hour for city slickers making a weekend of things from Turin. Home to countless chalets and apartments for precisely this reason, it is the middle of a network of three resorts, boasting a modest 55km of skiing but playing its role as a weekend getaway destination to a tee. Almost overnight, Italy’s snow situation had been turned on its head. From bare slopes and ribbons of artificial snow trying their very hardest to keep things open for ski schools and the few brave tourists, the sudden barrage of snow and the storm that brought it meant that most of the mountain was closed. We braved a few short runs taking in what we could, after which it was decided to head for an early lunch. Baita del Verde sits on its own at the foot of two lifts, linking Prato with neighbouring Artesina. With an outdoor terrace serving drinks and light bites, when the sun is out it is the perfect place among the woods to pause for a pitstop. Inside, a
I’VE LONG HELD A BELIEF THAT ITALIAN
SKIING
IS EXCEPTIONAL FOR WHAT GOES ON IN THE KITCHENS AS MUCH AS FOR WHAT HAPPENS ON THE SLOPES
chalet-style interior sees patrons carefully balancing helmets and skiing accessories on long, heavy wooden beams. Baita’s speciality? Polenta. Heaps of it. Lashings and lashings of polenta, a staple of Alpine working classes stretching back centuries and now elevated by modern Piemontese cuisine. Alongside this, a choice of sauces to keep things interesting, including a dark, rich veal; local pork sausage suspended in a delicate, sweet tomato sauce; or a creamy, nutty four-cheese fondue.
Prefaced by a cheeseboard rich and varied enough to give a lactoseintolerant diner an appetite (speaking from my own experience), and
desserts formed from recipes passed down through generations, this was an exceptional introduction to Piemontese cuisine; simple yet varied, hearty yet not overpowering.
Once the food had wrapped up, espresso will drag you from your postlunch malaise and ready you for an afternoon on the slopes. Baita’s particular blend is not for the faint hearted, kicking like a mule as you knock back the thimble of rich, creamy coffee.
Did I mention cheap? Oh, well, it was cheap too. Each main course at Baita set us back €12 a piece, the desserts €6. I challenge you to find better-value food on any mountain anywhere else in the world.
Prato Nevoso is a small ski resort around half an hour from Mondovì, in the middle of a network of three resorts that boast a modest 55km of skiing
SECONDI PIATTI
From Prato, we headed to Cuneo, a regional centre focused on a sprawling piazza and a halfway stop between Prato and our next ski destination, Sauze d’Oulx. Hidden behind seemingly endless colonnaded avenues is Il Nuovo Zuavo, a local trattoria serving Piemontese delicacies in a relaxed, informal setting. This time, we were in at the deep end. We tucked into a cold plate of veal and tuna, an utterly unique combination that so perfectly embodies the mixed heritage of the region; veal from the mountains and passes that frame Piemonte; tuna from the Gulf of Genoa, just a deer’s leap across the mountains to the south. The cuts of veal were exquisitely pink, the tuna more a sauce bearing the consistency of hummus than the fish it originally came from. Either way, the combination can be found in restaurants, cafés, and trattorias across the region, and perfectly balances flavours, with the almost sweet veal embracing the more moorish, tangy tuna sauce. The tasting menu was complemented by a whole roast onion filled with fondue; a seasonal flair on an otherwise timeless menu but still remaining close to Piemontese principles, inspired by the terrain surrounding the region.
DESSERT
Finally, to Sestriere and Sauze d’Oulx. Familiar to many Ski Club Members thanks to our Rep in the region, the Via Lattea – Milky Way – has been quietly linking together some 400km of ski slopes across the main valley that links Turin with France.
Still it snowed, with our arrival to the area being met with a foot of fresh silly soft stuff in the evening and another foot overnight. With connections between resorts closed as strong winds kept pummelling the top of the mountain, after a morning of skiing we did what we knew best and went in search of food, finding refuge at the slopeside Ristorante di Casse in Sestriere. Alongside the same regional specialities we had stumbled upon throughout the trip, Via Lattea can still remind you that yes, indeed, you are still in Italy. Here you can find pizza that would humble a Neapolitan and pork ragu so delicate and light it will elevate itself to your mouth, absence any assistance from a fork. Rabbit and walnut salad provides a remarkable complexity on a holiday that has otherwise been full of culinary subtlety – bursts of sweet, sour and bitter all firing off each other to drive
home the brilliance of Piemontese cuisine. (For a full review of Sestriere’s Ristorante di Casse, see Perfect Pitstop, SKI issue 225.)
The region is not just a foodie’s heaven, it is also a centre for wine. There are hundreds of varieties of grape grown in the region, so perfect is the semi-alpine climate for vineyards. Moscato, as one example, is a local sparkling white that rivals its famous sister, Prosecco, from the northeast of the country. The absolute highlight, however, is Barolo, a fullbodied, rose-and-cherry-flavoured red with impressive structure made from the local Nebbiolo grape – so called because the first autumn mists rolling off the mountainsides indicate to growers that the grapes are ripe and ready to pick.
For the more adventurous, the local speciality is, of course, Bombardino. Starting with Vov, a delicacy that is, in effect, spiked custard, add brandy, warm up the result, add a dollop of cream and enjoy. Between Bombardino and espresso, some record times might be set on the Olympic slopes of Sestriere and Sauze d’Oulx.
I’ve long held a belief that Italian skiing is exceptional for what goes on in the kitchens as much as for what happens on the slopes. My previous experiences have all been rich memories of delicious food and fabulous wines, all with the added cherry-on-top of being amazing value at the same time. Pizza and pasta are, simply, perfect skier's food designed to resurrect tired legs and give energy for the afternoon’s adventures.
Piemonte takes this certainty and runs with it down the length of the Po. Its cuisine is utterly unique, bringing together flavours from high in the Alps to the depths of the waters of the Mediterranean. If you find yourself in this corner of the Alps, skiing with a Rep in Sauze d’Oulx or exploring the smaller resorts of the area such as Prato Nevoso, take a moment just to step off the beaten track, or pisted run, and really immerse yourself in the sights, smells, and tastes of Piemonte. I promise you won’t find anything else like it. ❚
Keen to plan start planning your Piemonte foodie ski safari? For information on where to stay, ski and eat in Prato Nevoso visit pratonevoso.com; for Sestriere and Sauze d’Oulx visit vialattea.it. Also check out the Piemonte Tourism website at visitpiemonte.com
EXOTIC SKIING TWIST WITH AN
Andreas Hofer sets off on a mission to ski in the High Atlas before climate change spells a cruel end to its magic
I still remember my first travels to Marrakech. The Hofer girls, now wives and mothers, had just started to go to school. It was the time before smart phones were invented, and the old photos from our visit to the souks and the old town of Marrakech were still printed on photo paper. A mere three-and-a-half-hour flight from London, the world we encountered was a fairytale out of the Arab Nights. The Jemaa el-Fnaa square was teaming with monkey trainers, snake charmers and fire-eaters during the day, and full of music and steaming food stalls smelling irresistibly in the evening. The bazaar was a cauldron of street sellers and merchants trading in things as exotic as dried chameleons, pickled scorpions and unknown herbs and spices. There was a stand of the dentist proudly showing off a heap of successfully extracted molars, and rows of shops for perfumes, gold, rugs and copper wares. Soon the girls were hired by the traders to sell a cartfull of mint (Antonia) and a heap of fresh eggs (Karina). We stayed in a luxurious hotel at the edge of the old town, which had counted Winston Churchill among its guests. His watercolours of his time in Morocco still pop up at auctions occasionally. We had hired a driver for the duration of our stay, which had cost less than a London Underground day ticket today. After a week of acquaintance he invited us to his home out of town. There, he dressed us in traditional garb, which the children thoroughly enjoyed, of course. Then we all sat down on the floor and he and his wife taught us how to eat the meat stew and couscous politely with our fingers. He was a Berber. One day he suggested we drive a few hours south into the mountains where he came from. This was my first encounter of the High Atlas.
A DESIRE TO RETURN, TO SKI
I have been many times to Marrakech since. For the UN COP environmental conference, or to hang out with a good friend who maintains a lavish riad townhouse in the Medina. The spell, the exotic of the place, despite the many more tourists, is still unbroken. Every visit will impress anew. Yet for me it felt incomplete. My desire to venture deeper into the Atlas Range, my wish to ski some of the 4,000m peaks, remained elusive. My old ski guide from Val d'Isère, Pat Zimmer, gave me a few contacts in Morocco. Yet all my emails and ever more desperate calls remained unanswered. Then one day my Swedish ski guide Stefan Palm, who lives with his family in Chamonix, gave me the contacts of Kristoffer Erickson, another IFMGA guide from Cham. Kris is – other than his name would suggest – American. ❱❱
THE SPELL, THE EXOTIC OF THE PLACE, DESPITE THE MANY MORE TOURISTS, IS STILL UNBROKEN
He and his wife Cloe are a long-term denizens of Chamonix. Teenage daughter Noor is a rising star in the French Nordic skiing national team. Kris immediately responded and I booked a ski touring week in the High Atlas for a week in the beginning of March. As it turned out, he has a special affinity for Morocco, and so does his wife. Her second given name is Medina. Both their parents had spent time in Morocco in the 1960s and instilled their love for the country into their children. The Ericksons have owned a house in the Berber village of Aguddim for many years. They built it from scratch, an impressive multi-storey stone house. Noor went to elementary school there before the Ericksons’ moved to France. They still come back for vacations as a family, while Kris is guiding skiers in winter.
The Atlas Mountains, stretching from south-west to north-east over 2,000km, separate the Mediterranean coast from the
Sahara in the south, and the Atlantic in the west. The very name 'Atlantic' is derived from the Atlas range. They are home to the Amazigh people, better known as Berbers since ancient times. Their culture predates the Arab conquest by 3,000 years. They speak Tamazight, a group of ancient languages from Mali to Tunisia. They practice Islam in a blend with their own 'kanun' code of behaviour, with elements of Suffi and animistic beliefs. Culturally the Berbers had their heydays when their Almoravid dynasty conquered Spain, building magnificent palaces and centres of learning in Granada and Cordoba. The Ericksons are well integrated in the community of their Berber village. Mohamed 'Simo' Amahdar, the son of the local sheik, is a permanent employee of their Atlas Cultural Foundation – dedicated to preserve ancient monuments and handcraft skills in the Ahansal Valley and promoting local businesses. We stayed in
the guest house of the Amahdar family, for instance, one of the many projects initiated by the Ericksons. Mohamed, a 'sidi', or (future) sheik like his father, also works for the travel arm of ACF, the Atlas Cultural Adventures, as a guide and manager. It was Simo who met me at the airport on 26 February, transferring me to the boutique hotel Riad 27, which was entirely booked for our group: the wonderful guide and cultural teacher Ismail Barda, ski guests Marc, Glen and Cheryl from the US, and Kristoffer, who took us out to a gourmet restaurant on a terrace overlooking the minarets and roofs of the old town of Marrakech. This set the tone for our next eight days. Food, drinks, snacks, ample supplies of bottled water, all transfers and accommodation was included in the trip costs (I paid USD 6,250 for single-room occupancy). In the evenings we were always treated to enjoyable, local wines.
A VAST MOONSCAPE
For a week we travelled in comfort from village to village in Toyota Landcruisers, marvelling at a landscape, which was at least as exotic as the souks of Marrakech. Lime-green hued patties of vegetable gardens and orchards in the fertile valleys would make place for cumin-coloured limestone walls, eventually rising to snow-capped peaks in the distance.
Kris points out the iconic summits of Toubkal (4,165m) and Jebel Quanoukrim (4,089m). Both peaks we would have to skip this time as the snow cover was too meagre to make the cumbersome approach worthwhile. “In 10 years I have never seen so little snow this time of the year,” he complains. While we make our way to Aguddim, the village of the Amahdar clan, he ruefully waves to some of the slopes we pass: “Last year we could skin up right from the road here, hiking 1,200m verticals with ease. The lack of snowfall will devastate agriculture this year.”
We turn a last corner, and then we see Aguddim. Lodged in a steep valley, it is a picture postcard image of a Berber eyrie: the high-rising, ochre mud castles and ancient granaries, the quaint, flat-roofed houses, nesting on top of each other, the poplars and apple trees in bloom, water gushing down from high cliffs, and children crowding around us as soon as we get out of the car. It is market day, and men and women in their best outfits stroll through the fruit and vegetable stalls proudly.
Before we go skiing, Kris wants us see his painstakingly built 'via ferrata'. It is a 400-vertical-metre, sheer rock wall, with some substantial overhangs, made idiot-proof for beginners like us. It must have been a task of many months to fix all the ropes and hooks and step helps onto the rock. Donning harnesses, helmets and 'spinner leashes' (carabiners on a pair of expandable leashes) we were lifting ourselves up the rock centimetre by centimetre secured by those wire ropes and swing hooks for our carabiners. It was anything but real climbing. It was more like the equivalent of a baby walker. But when we reached the
safe summit after a couple of hours we were beaming with joy and satisfaction. “Did you look down, how abysmally steep?”
Our ski touring was organised around Jbel Azourki (3,650m) and Jbel Wagoulzat (3,767m) in the Ait Bougmez valley, half a day’s drive from Aguddim with an overnight stay in the lovely Dar Itrane guest house. We would hike up through a landscape of scree and ancient Juniper, wind-tortured, tree-sized and improbably gnarled. Our gear – rucksacks, skis, poles and ski boots – were loaded on mules leading the way uphill. It was a daily, many-hours-long hike to the snow line, void of any living creatures. No humans around. Even the stone-built huts of the transhumance herders seemed to be abandoned long ago. Only the hoof-prints of our carrier animals and our own boot steps were witness to human visitors in this vast moonscape.
Reaching the edge of the snowfield felt liberating. Finally we could glue the skins to our skis, get into our ski boots and scale the remaining 500 vertical metres in style. The views from the top were indeed magnificent. We could see Toubkal, the King Peak of the High Atlas, seemingly not far away, just there, pretending to be thickly covered in snow. From afar snow always looks more abundant… At the horizon, far to the east, stretched the endless sands of the Sahara. And then, every time we took off our skins and raced over the wind-swept, hard-frozen snow fields we knew it was all worthwhile. We have skied in Africa. And it was perhaps one of the last opportunities to do so. For a few more years perhaps, richer snowfall would festoon the ridges. But very soon climate change will put a cruel end to it. The muleteers have built a tent camp in a hollow at the foot of Wagoulzat. When we came down late in the evening, our feet sore from many days of hiking, a sumptuous meal was waiting for us. Refreshed with steaming towels, our skins and shirts dangling in the wind to dry, we entered the kitchen tent for a last evening in the mountains. It did not take long for our crew to unpack their drums and start singing and chanting late into the night. The stars were shining brighter than ever before. ❚
“Only the hoof-prints of our carrier animals and our own boot steps were witness to human visitors in this vast moonscape…” From the bustle of Marrakech to the remote beauty of the Atlas Range, this place is magical
Easyjet (easyjet.com) flights from London Gatwick, Luton and other major UK airports to Marrakech from £85 for the last week February/first week March 2025. British Airways (ba.com) has daily flight connections too.
All is taken care of with Atlas Cultural Adventures (atlasculturaladventures.com), a US-registered tour operator that organises guided ski touring in the High Atlas, which includes hotel accommodation, full board, transport in 4x4s, guiding and cultural programmes, plus airport transfers. Price last season was $US6,000 per person, plus $US500 for single-room occupancy. Not included medical (obligatory) and rescue insurance (recommended), as offered by the Ski Club for Members.
To book Kristoffer Erickson, IFMGA guide from Chamonix, co-owner of ACA, call +33 6 38 40 68 60.
LA VIE D’UN PISTEUR
What does it really take to keep the mountains safe for us? We spend a day with the pisteurs who patrol Tignes’ Tovière sector to find out ❱❱
WORDS AND PHOTOS CHRIS GLYNNE
How many of us regularly marvel at the majesty of the mountains around us? But what tiny percentage give any thought to the safety and security measures going on behind the scenes by the mountain patrol teams to keep these places safe?
Sure, if you’ve ever been witness to the work of these unsung heroes rescuing you, or a person you know, then I’m sure you felt immense gratitude at the time. But how often do you reflect on their much wider role of protecting you from harm in the first place?
During the 2023-24 season in Tignes, France, I met Pete Richmond. Pete is a rather unique example of this profession out here – he is a British Ski Patroller. It was through Pete that I was able to experience the working lives of these exceptional
men and women, referred to in France as ‘pisteurs’.
The structure in Tignes is somewhat unique. A multitude of responsibilities is collated under one large municipal team called ‘La Regie des Pistes’ (Piste Management). Out of 106 staff, the largest section is the pisteurs team – and it’s big, with 56 staff in all. The Tignes ski area is divided into four sectors and each has a team of pisteurs headed by a ‘Chef de Massif’ (Sector Chief) and an ‘Assistant Chef’.
The Grand Motte, Palet and Tovière sectors each have a team of 12 with eight always on duty. The Aiguille Percée sector is the largest, by area, and has a compliment of 20 with 12 typically on duty. Although each member is part of a sector team, they all occasionally help out across teams when one area is under pressure.
Pete is part of the Tovière team and so, on 12 January 2024, I was given special dispensation to embed with them for the day.
IS THERE A COLLECTIVE NOUN FOR PISTEURS? ONE SUGGESTION PARTICULARLY RESONATED – A ‘PANTHEON OF PISTEURS’. AFTER ALL, THEY REALLY ARE HEROES
RAZOR-SHARP FOCUS
Our start time is kind, given the clear weather and no proactive avalanche controls required. We meet at 07:30, on the local resort bus, and travel down to Pete's central meeting point together. We chat about what I hope to get out of the day. “I want to help people appreciate what unsung heroes you all are,” I say, to which Pete looks rather embarrassed.
As we arrive into the central part of Tignes, Pete disappears to his headquarters for a morning briefing and to collect his kit. Around 20 minutes later his whole team arrive at the base of the Tovière gondola. One of them walks over, says hello and changes the avalanche risk sign from 3 down to 2. “A good day!” I offer, smiling. “Let’s hope so,” she replies, reciprocating the smile. I have just met the lovely Marina.
As we ride the gondola up and I begin eagerly jabbering away with questions, I realise that Pete is concentrating on the surrounding mountains. What hits me straight away is the immediate focus on the risks they can see and actions they’ll need to take. “Right now we’re looking for ‘primary dangers’ that might halt a piste safely opening.” Pete continues to scan but explains that it’s important to note if any of the orange protection mattresses are missing, poles blown down/snapped, etc.
As we reach the top there is little time wasted as the team promptly open their hut and Chef de Tovière, JeanPierre, starts the co-ordination. Marina is the principal on ‘Rescue duty’ and immediately starts checking all the kit is present and correct. Each pisteur does roughly a 10-day cycle as Rescue lead. The rest of the team start sweeping down pistes that they’ve been allocated.
The next 15 minutes is fast but highly focused skiing, stopping sporadically to re-plant marker poles (called ‘jallons’), put a few ski tracks on a fresh snow cannon mound, or check a protection mattress around the base of a snow cannon. Pete clears his allocated piste then tracks across to join his colleague, Gauthier, with placing out the 'Caution' and 'Slow' banners on a nearby piste. Pete radios in his confirmation that these two pistes are now cleared to open, with a caveat that a mattress needs some attention. Within 20 minutes of having reached the peak this whole sector is cleared to open. The attention to detail is truly remarkable at such pace. It is a touch slower as we ski down to Val d'Isère in order to check the route that some rescue evacuations might need to take. Two lifts later we are back at the hut and the pisteurs fill out their official paperwork to record their checks, remediations and required actions. They chat over coffee about the most effective way to prioritise these throughout the next couple of hours: digging out mattresses, replacing missing or broken piste poles, etc. Having noticed that Pete has disappeared, I wander outside. The peak is already awash with keen skiers and boarders everywhere. I watch Pete knocking a substantial build-up of snow-cannon ice, which has accumulated on the signposts overnight. “We wouldn’t want that falling on someone’s head,” he says, as he strides back with his ‘jallon’ knocking pole.
AN ALADDIN'S CAVE
In order to give me a scale of the effort that goes into patrolling Tignes ski resort, Pete had gained approval for me to tour the Central HQ. After conferring with his colleagues about his remediation notes, we head off down into the centre of the resort. As we ski down Pete is still diligently checking for risks and dangers, but also begins to explain that the seamless operation of a ski resort is largely in the ‘off-season’ preparation. He is keen to show examples on the way, such as wooden barricades that slow storm winds to collect snow in key areas and a piste re-profiling project to angle a major piste more obliquely to the sun, prolonging snow cover into the spring.
The next hour, in their HQ, is a blur of multiple facets that go into making the resort such a wellorchestrated and safe experience for us all. It literally gives me a headache trying to absorb it all and drains my phone battery as I try to keep useful notes.
We visit the office management area from the emergency call-handling team through HR, finance, projects, and I even get an introduction to the Director General, Jacques. We meet the ‘Quartermaster’, Christophe, who is in charge of all procurement. We tour his storerooms and the engineering team’s workshops stacked out like an Aladdin's cave.
We meet the Head Mechanic, Ian, and hear about the range of vehicles, including various Ski-Doos, quad-tracks and 17 piste bashers, that he looks after. Ian explains the effort required to keep this fleet of impressively brutish, but sophisticated, behemoths in service. At a rough €500k per unit, with about €20k annual servicing, they are the dominant part of his five-strong team’s workload. What I wasn’t prepared for was the frequent repairs they require with typically five in need of repair at any one time. Just as I marvel at that figure, he describes the regular need for on-mountain repairs… in the freezing cold… and in the dark.
As we finish the tour, Pete tells me about a few more important groups: the five-person team who run the 408 artificial snow cannons; the Gasex avalanche-triggering team in command of the 41 big metal tubes you see on the steep mountainsides; and even the pre-season team who ‘mow the lawn’ on all the pistes so the snowfall sticks to the ground. By the time we’ve toured the pistes back to the hut it is midday and there still haven’t been any rescues required in our area. Pete explains that a bad day is 10, a good day maybe one or two. “It’s quiet for the team today… it means nobody’s holiday has been ruined,” says Pete. ❱❱
Right from the moment the team ride the gondola up, their focus is on the risks they can see and the actions they'll need to take
ONE BIG FAMILY
During the morning I’ve witnessed the incredible camaraderie among the team, with colleagues in other sectors, and indeed with colleagues from Val d'Isère. There is a good dose of banter and an overwhelming sense of ‘family’. Today they even have the fortune for a collective lunch and I was honoured to witness this family vibe up close.
I enquired of each of them about their years in this service. Jean-Pierre has 42 years in Tignes (three on the lifts and 39 as a pisteur) and his deputy Fred is on 37 years, having started aged 16. Marina and Arnaud have 25 and 24 years respectively. Mathieu is 14 years and Virginie 11. Gauthier is the newest to this profession, with three years in Val d'Isère before coming to Tignes. And, of course, Pete, who has covered all four of the Tignes sectors in his 18 years. Fabrice, Duncan and Marlene have days off today; so does Baptiste and his handsome rescue dog Nitro.
The afternoon continues without rescue incident and is dedicated to proactive risk remediation, including advice for the overnight snow grooming: to cover ice patches, smooth slopes, etc.
Late afternoon feels like it has arrived incredibly quickly as I shadow Pete, sweeping the slopes and learning about all the work they do quietly behind the scenes. One particular topic I latch onto is the immense depth and breadth of training they undertake and continually refresh. It would not be unrealistic to liken their entry-level 'Premier Degrée' to a University degree qualification; their ‘Deuxième Degrée’. perhaps a Masters level; and ‘Troisième’ perhaps PhD of mountain safety and rescue. Their first aid training alone sounds almost like that of a paramedic. This is beyond what most of us would experience in any professional walk of life.
By the time everyone is back at the hut it is 16:00 and piste closure is imminent. There is a short window of opportunity for me to thank them all. In return I’m offered an initiation ritual they’ve devised – a sugar cube soaked in a spoon of pear brandy, set alight then chomped without blowing out the flame. I’m unsure if the 'Not to blow the flame out' part is the norm, or if they’ve just made that up for me. For a moment I feel like part of this immense family. I ask them if they realise that there are 171 years of experience stood in this hut today. They have never counted that up before but they seem rightly impressed with their collective tally. As I say a specific thank you to Jean-Pierre, for having me at his hut, I learn that in three weeks he is set to retire… Fred will take on the mantle.
After they clear the mountain restaurant and terraces, it is time to close the hut and perform ‘clearing’ sweeps down the mountain. I track Arnaud down the piste, with Pete
SHOW YOUR APPRECIATION!
The simplest way we can support and honour pisteurs is to enjoy our passion for the mountains in a safe and responsible manner, so we minimise their rescue workload. However, I do advocate and encourage showing them some love in other ways too. Say hello to them. Ask how things are going on the mountain. Pop into the hut and talk to them... And yes, tell them you appreciate what they do for us – both the seen, and more particularly the unseen work. Your gratitude will go miles!
following on a Ski-Doo. I help them pull in the 'Caution' signs so that the piste groomers have a clear run overnight, and before I know it we are at the base and saying goodbye.
At the outset of my request to shadow Pete, he set my expectations very clearly: “You will not be allowed to shadow the avalanche controlled bombing.” Without doubt, that is where they genuinely put their lives on the line to ensure our safety.
I knew that these teams of amazing people are quite literal life-savers in emergency events. Although we had a zerorescues day in our sector, they are primed for everything from bruises, strains, dislocations and breaks to cardiac distress/ arrest, incapacity, getting lost or buried in an avalanche.
What I was unprepared for was the scale of the collective team and wider breadth of their duty – informing us, protecting us and ensuring we have a fabulous time on the mountain – in safety.
It is all the more sobering to hear that the Tignes pisteurs team suffered 31 injuries in the '22-23 year, leading to 673 lost working days. On average, 10% of pisteurs won’t see out the season as a result of injury ‘in the line of duty’.
In private conversations with friends I had discussed whether there is a collective noun for pisteurs, like the well-known ‘pride of lions’ or ‘gaggle of geese’. One suggestion particularly resonated with us – a ‘pantheon of pisteurs’. After all, they really are heroes. ❚
To read the full version, head online to skiclub.co.uk/life-of-apisteur.
Parallels & BRUSHSTROKES
SCGB Member Roddy Kemp has a unique connection with artist Peter Spens, which was forged on a chairlift and fuelled by a remarkable coincidence…
I met Peter on a chairlift. Where else would you meet anyone? On the tips of his skis he had the ubiquitous ski hire shop sticker with his name and the hotel he was staying in.
“Spens, that’s an unusual name,” I said. “Yes, there are very few Spens in the world,” he replied.
I pressed on. “I know a Spens. At medical school in the 1950s my mother had a friend called Nora who married a Paul Spens. They emigrated to America, sailing a yacht called Skelda to New York. It was a daring thing to do in 1959, making the papers on both sides of the Atlantic. Nora became my sister’s godmother.”
“That’s an amazing coincidence,” Peter replied, “because Paul was my uncle and my godfather”. We’ve been friends ever since, treating each other as second-division family. Before the end of that ride, Peter had told me he was a painter. I assumed he ran a painting and decorating business, reinforced by his slightly dishevelled attire that suggested he had just stepped off a ladder into a very old ski suit. It was a while before I discovered that he’s a celebrated artist.
One of this country’s most celebrated painters of modern life, Peter has been invited to draw the most important Parliamentary debates of recent years in the House of Commons. In 2012 he painted the Thames Pageant from a roof next to Southwark Bridge. And, for the London Olympics, the Parade Ground from the highly visible spot of the roof of Horse Guards. Being Peter, he became part of the show, with the compere inviting spectators to wave encouragement at the artist! That painting now hangs in the International Sport Federation’s President’s office in Lausanne, alongside his subsequent commission for the Rio de Janeiro 2016 Olympics.
Peter was back to the Olympics in Paris last summer, again managing to become a celebrity as he painted, with many TV journalists from around the world interviewing him. That painting is now complete, and SCGB Members who visit his gallery will get the chance to see it before it heads off to Lausanne.
WHERE PETER GOES, SO DOES HIS PAINT AND BRUSHES. HE HAS FOUND THAT THE PAINTING PROCESS HAS MANY PARALLELS WITH SKIING
Above and right: From the Paris Olympics to the ski slopes of Europe, Peter’s artwork manages to capture the magic of the moment
Visceral landscapes and frostbite
Peter loves to ski. He particularly loves Wengen, in Switzerland, one of the Ski Club’s spiritual homes. As all of us will agree, the drama of the environment, coupled with the sense of escape and freedom that skiing delivers, brings him back year after year. Where Peter goes, so does his paint and brushes. He has found that the painting process has many parallels with skiing.
Skiing is an intuitive activity. We sequence our movements instinctively. It’s learned behaviour that’s programmed into our subconscious; you don’t think or consider first what to do when the slope gets steeper. For Peter it’s the same with painting. He finds that working with oil paint, it has its own will. He becomes immersed in the landscape as he is painting it. He describes it as “the phrasing of oil paint marks”. For him they are visceral – a threedimensional texture that conveys, speed, depth, drama and light. This is not about pretension, that's the last thing you would use to describe Peter. It’s simply what he scrutinises armed with his paintbox. That immersion does have drawbacks. Most painters of mountains in winter work from photographs because it’s too cold. Peter always paints ‘on the spot’; it delivers an immediacy and truthfulness that a flat photograph won’t give an artist. On more than one occasion, that commitment has resulted in him getting frostbite. While his left hand is working the brush and palette knife constantly, and staying warm, his right is static holding the paintbox. Lost in what he is doing, he doesn’t realise how cold his right has become. On each occasion his wife, a doctor, has questioned his sanity. Peter's battle with the cold has become more elaborate over the years. Gloves help, obviously. The best he can find. A vast sweatshirt, with large pockets front and back for hot water bottles that makes him look decidedly rotund. Swiss Railways, based up the mountain at Kleine Scheidegg station, have been helpful providing the hot water and, true to their approach to life, informing him it was 84.7 degrees. More recently, he has invested in an electric waistcoat, which he’s particularly pleased with, because it looks as though he’s lost 20 kilos.
A SENSE OF OUR OWN SCALE
Each painting takes several sessions. The Swiss go out of their way to help Peter, storing his paints, easel and other accoutrements at the Kleine Scheidegg station. Further work in his studio in London then follows.
If you look at one of his mountain paintings, they are all painted at an angle. The angle is what demonstrates the drama. The plunging terrain. The towering Eiger bearing down on you. The sense of speed, of both the weather and what you can achieve on two skis. He’s sure that one of the reasons we ski is it gives us a sense of our own scale. Very small. For him, it’s about finding an equivalence for your sensation in the mountains through paint. Peter talks of his fascination with water. It’s level of reflection, texture and movement. Its capacity to be in different states. Crystallised water falls from the skies and is pummelled into pistes. Fresh snow drapes itself over the mountains, rounding off the terrain, except the rocky outcrops, which push up through this soft blanket. The sky is evaporated water, and the wind whips the clouds into forms that echo the mountains beneath. ❚
WHERE TO SEE PETER'S WORK
Peter showcased some of his paintings and gave a short talk on why skiing and mountain scenes inspire him, at the Ski Club Pre-Season Party at the White Haus in December.
Ski Club Members can view this fabulous collection of ski paintings privately at the Cranley Gallery, London N10. To arrange an appointment email: peter@cranleygallery.com
Of special interest to Ski Club Members, Peter has produced two limited-edition prints. Members can buy a print at a discounted price of £280 framed (normally £320), or £220 unframed (normally £260). For more information go to: cranleygallery.com or email Peter directly: peter@cranleygallery.com
BRUSH
All painted at an angle, Peter's artwork demonstrates the drama of the mountains: the plunging terrain, the sense of our own scale
BRUSH
TAILOR-MADE SKI HOLIDAYS
Our team of Ski Specialists are committed to creating your perfect ski holiday. They’ll be your guide to the top resorts, the most convenient travel options, the best accommodation and the most suitable ski essentials. And with their local knowledge, they can give you the lowdown on lunch stops, après-ski and fine dining.
Our tailor-made service gives you total flexibility. From Fast Track security passes, airport lounge access and upgraded transfers, to pre-booked ski lessons and your lift passes delivered with your travel documents*, we can take care of the little extras that can take your holiday to another level.
Selva di Val Gardena
Val d’Isère
Kempinski Palace, Engelberg
Aspen Snowmass
With more than 1.5m of fresh snowfall having fallen across British Columbia, hopes were high. But Mother Nature had some surprises in store…
CONQUERINGTHE CANADIAN
BACKCOUNTRY
Angus Maciver embarks on a remote ski touring adventure deep in British Columbia
PHOTOS BRUCE GOODLAD
If you want epic ski touring in a picturesque lodge in the untamed wilderness of Canada, then the Burnie Glacier Chalet is right up your street. It all started in 2022, on a trip to Finnmark, Norway, led by Bruce Goodlad, IFMGA mountain guide and Alpine Safety Advisor for the Ski Club. We had an amazing time, but the snow was heavy, and the allure of more remote, colder powder was hard to ignore. That’s when Bruce mentioned a potential trip to Canada. I was in and persuaded an old friend, Matt, newly returned from China, to join us.
Months of planning followed: emails, waivers, invoices and travel instructions. Our journey would take us from Europe to Vancouver to Smithers, deep in British Columbia, then via a helicopter to our lodgings, located 15km from the nearest road.
In addition to the usual touring equipment – skis, skins, crampons – we had to come prepared for glaciers. Harnesses, ice axes, locking carabiners, ice screws, head torches and rope slings were all part of the required arsenal. And don’t forget a backpack and appropriate clothing for the challenging terrain. Both Matt and I chose to use the new Ortovox Litric electric avalanche airbags. Our gear had to fit into a mere 15kg weight allowance, which meant I had to bid farewell to excessive pairs of socks. However, I managed to strike a deal with Bruce – the bottle of whisky would receive special dispensation, not counting towards our weight allowance.
With the help of Atomic and Petzl, who generously provided some of my gear, we were ready to take on the mountainous playground that awaited us. With over 1.5m of fresh snowfall having fallen across British Columbia that week, we had high hopes. But, as with any adventure, Mother Nature had some surprises in store. ❱❱
SUMMIT SCRAMBLES AND AN EXHILARATING DESCENT
Bruce picked us up at Smithers in a hired truck – they only have trucks for hire that far north – and we met the rest of the crew. Sadly, a few had to back out last minute due to work commitments and an unfortunate hand injury. So we were an intrepid crew of seven and two guides, Bruce and Sean Fraser, the local guide from the lodge, who drove us rally car-like down snowy forested roads to the helicopter landing area, inauspiciously located in the middle of a forest beside a river.
We arrived at the Burnie Glacier Chalet to a level 4 avalanche risk, with warm weather dampening the powder, which meant we'd need careful selection of routes and choice of slopes. It is worth appreciating that Avalanche Canada, who produce the general report in empty NW British Columbia, have to cover an equivalent area to the Alps. It is therefore down to each guide to develop their view and feed it into the national database.
We met Elisa, our fabulous cook, who whipped up fantastic Italian sausage with onions and apples, risotto and amazing salad on the first night, followed by strawberries and cream. Food was not going to be an issue. The lodge, built with the permission of the indigenous Witsuwit'en people, was a cosy sanctuary in an immense backcountry ski area comparable to Argentière in size. It is wood built, has its own hydro and solar power, and is heated by logs sourced from the surrounding forest. Guests sleep in comfy double rooms that accommodate 12 in all. Some unusual rules emerged in our briefing: “Close the composting toilet door to stop critters getting in… you don’t want a critter in there when you’re sitting down to do your business.” Indeed not. No hot showers either – cold only, advised after the sauna. Maybe this is my opportunity to adopt Wim Hof-style cold showers as part of my normal routine, I think. Avalanche practice followed that afternoon, with Bruce keen that we show the Canadian guide that Brits can manage an avalanche scenario: six minutes for two burials. Bruce was unusually happy! Our first day began with a 7am breakfast, courtesy of Elisa. We anticipated an unseasonably warm day. Our 1,100m ascent onto the small Solitaire glacier promised fresh tracks up and down, stunning vistas but uncertain snow quality. Despite encountering a crusty slope that sent Sean sliding, necessitating the deployment of ski crampons, we soldiered on. The Petzl fly harness proved to be a game-changer – lightweight and easy to don without removing my skis. A minor mishap led me to initially attach the leg of the harness to the waist, lesson learned! We reached the summit, scrambling the last 50m over some rocks, to be rewarded with great views and an exhilarating descent. However, the snow soon became unforgivingly soft, reminiscent apparently of ‘elephant snot’: a dense, thick porridgelike consistency. We even stumbled upon a new, small avalanche triggered by our earlier passage, reminding us to be careful.
WE SKIED AND THEN SKINNED ON ICY SNOW ALONG A NARROW FOREST TRACK IN THE DARK – MADNESS!
SPECTACULAR GLACIER SCENERY
The next few days varied from early to very early breakfasts and 1,000 to 1,300m of climbing. The early starts meant head torches were required. I have the new Petzl Swift RL, rechargeable and very bright (if required for skiing down), but I found that the first setting (to save the battery) was plenty bright enough.
We had one long haul up to, and along, quite a precipitous ridge using ski crampons to cling onto the hard crust. We arrived at the summit a bit early for sun to have softened the snow for the way down. We had super views both down the valley we came from and over east towards the Smithers ski area 10 miles away. Having grabbed a bite, we traversed back along the ridge (a couple of ‘moments’ here if you were brave enough to look down) and then had three super spring snow pitches with two additional ascents, finishing off with more porridge snow between the trees. Having returned to the lodge (we tended to finish around 2pm each day, otherwise the snow would be too soft) we were cajoled into a folding chair competition – client versus guide; client won on a technicality – that resulted in a much-needed beer.
An amazing day followed, with spectacular glacier scenery, involving a hard 1,300m climb through moraine, a narrow ascent that involved bootpacking. We had some gear incidents that day – worn skins making ascents hard work, a dropped pole almost lost forever. But we reached our objective and then all enjoyed a perfect spring snow descent from Mid Solitaire glacier.
Another day and we had the opportunity to practice advanced side-slip techniques and some very tight turns through trees. We also made an ascent to an ice cave where we practised using ice screws, boot crampons and ice axes. My Petzl Ride ice axe seemed the most popular lightweight choice, up a small climb to the opening at the top of the cave. Sean roped down into the cave to see if there was an easy way through the ice to the bottom – there wasn’t, so we practiced crevasse rescue to bring him back up. We continued onwards over another frozen lake and up through two icefalls, roped together as we skinned to the beginning of a third ice wall; here we had lunch as the guides scoped out a route for our last day, before it was time for our return ski, back the way we’d come. ❱❱
What an adventure! No other groups, no roads, more ascent than was expected but, all in all, a fantastic trip
AN ADVENTURE TO REMEMBER
Our last day began at 6am: head torches required. I used Petzl’s new automatic brightness setting as we skied and then skinned on icy snow along a narrow forest track in the dark – madness! After over an hour of tricky skinning avoiding tree wells, we popped out of the forest into the valley of the Loft Glacier. We climbed steeply until we had covered 500m; the gradient eased for the next 600m, but we still needed ski crampons. This was no walk in the park. We mentioned the steepness of the drop to the side to Sean, who merely suggested we should avoid falling. Noted. We made it to the peak after four-and-ahalf hours of climbing, stopping for a short rest on a rock, which had recently appeared out of the glacier. We were probably the first people to have sat on that rock, a sobering global warming thought. We had lunch and then skied a 1,300m two-anda-half hour descent over hard crusty snow, soft snow, breakable crust, superb spring snow and then wet snow, down through a steep forested section. It ended with a section of side-slip descent that was so steep that the guides required a safety rope to help the team get down onto the valley floor, where we embarked on a 40-minute skin back to the lodge alongside a creek. In touring you have to ski what’s in front of you! What an adventure. The whole area was very isolated, there were no other groups, there were no roads and even very few con trails from aircraft. The week involved more ascent that I had expected, and it wasn’t as cold as we’d hoped, so there wasn’t powder, but there was enough freeze/thaw for some great spring skiing. All in all, a fantastic trip. As for the cold showers, will I continue with them when I get home as part of a new health kick? No chance! ❚
factfile
Angus flew British Airways to Vancouver (ba.com) and then Air Canada to Smithers (aircanada.com).
This winter, Burnie Glacier Chalet (bearmountaineering.ca) is offering a week’s package for CAD$3,765 (£2,140) per person (inc. taxes). This includes car/helicopter transfers, all food and accommodation at the lodge, guide’s services, and rental gear as required.
ANGUS’ KIT LIST
Skis: Atomic Backland 100
Bindings: Atomic Shift MNC 13
Boots: Atomic Backland Xtd Carbon 120
Skins: PoCoMa Climb 2.0
Backpack: Ortovox Avabag Litric Tour 30 (though I suggest Matt’s 40 is more versatile)
Harness: Petzl Fly
Ice Axe: Petzl Ride
Headtorch: Petzl Swift RL
Angus (right) and Matt pause the adventuring to take in the view
Photo: Angus Maciver
SUN-FILLED SPRING SKI DAYS IN SKI AMADÉ
The end of the season is the time to visit Ski amadé, with music events, culinary festivals, sun-filled ski days and the best-value skiing of the season
...And, if the last few seasons are anything to go by, spring brings some of the best conditions of winter! Across Salzburg and Styria are 25 ski resorts that make up the Ski amadé ski area. With 760km of ski slopes, 270 modern lifts and 356 perfectly groomed slopes all on one ski pass, impressive mountain panoramas and too many mountain huts to count, Ski amadé really is a skier’s paradise.
A SPOTLIGHT ON THE SKI AMADÉ RESORTS
SCHLADMING-DACHSTEIN
With over 230km of perfectly groomed slopes across 10 mountains, Schladming-Dachstein is a great base for piste skiers looking to get some mileage under their belts. Highlights include the four-mountain ski link - the 4-Bergeconnecting the peaks of Hauser Kaibling, Planai, Hochwurzen and Reiteralm, offering plenty of north-facing runs and 1,250m of vertical. schladming-dachstein.com
HOCHKÖNIG
The Hochkönig ski area with its three villages - Maria Alm, Dienten and Mühlbach - offers winter sports enthusiasts varied ski runs with a total of 120km of pistes and 34 ski lifts, against a picture-perfect Alpine backdrop. Hut hopping is a favourite activity of skiers here, especially along the ‘Königstour’ - the royal culinary tour - that combines skiing with on-mountain Austrian food tastings. hochkoenig.at/en
GROSSARLTAL-DORFGASTEIN
With modern ski lifts serving 70km of runs, plus direct access to the 760km network of Ski amadé slopes, Großarltal is a small resort with great links. Centrally situated in Ski amadé, it’s also well known for its cosy mountain huts and luxury accommodation. Home to the best hotels in Ski amadé, Großarltal has three five-star and 20 four-star hotels to choose from, all costing relatively little. grossarltal.info
WAGRAIN-KLEINARL
With ultra-fast lifts, zero queues and pristine pistes, Wagrain-Kleinarl is a high-altitude winter wonderland for skiing, snowboarding, sledding and hiking. There are more than 210km of pistes between 1,000m and 2,000m in altitude across 12 peaks, with something for every level of skier. From the 26km of cross-country ski tracks, the Jägersee trail is a highlight. Then there’s 20km of winter hiking trails and the scenic 6.5km toboggan run through the Kleinarl mountains. wagrain-kleinarl.at
SKI AMADÉ SPECIAL OFFERS
SKI AMADÉ LADIES WEEK
Between 22–29 March throughout the Ski amadé ski area you can get a free six-day lift pass when you book seven nights accommodation for two people (at participating hotels and guesthouses).
EASTER FAMILY SPECIAL
Easter ski bunnies, attention! From mid-March until the end of season, children under 16 years ski for free with each six-day adult’s lift pass purchased. Easter week is a great time to ski, with longer, sunnier ski days and plenty of on-mountain entertainment and events. And with a range of affordable ski packages for young families, students, seniors and couples, it’s a no brainer... skiamade.com/specialweeks
FEEL THE RHYTHM
Celebrate the end of the season skiing in glorious sunshine before heading to an openair concert or in-town gig to finish the day. From rock and pop to electronic music and folk - there's a jam-packed music schedule in Ski amadé this spring. Live performances and DJ sets are made all the more memorable against the backdrop of a mountain sunset. skiamade.com/snowvibes
NEW TO SKI AMADÉ
Best Learn2Ski amadé is the new accreditation given to a collection of ski schools that have recently been vetted, setting a new and high standard for snowsport instruction in the region. Feel confident in making your first turns or honing your skills on the slopes with Ski amadé’s pro instructors offering top-drawer tuition to skiers and snowboarders of all ages and abilities. Head to Ski amadé to learn from the very best. skiamade.com/bestlearn2ski
WHERE TO STAY
From quaint family-run hotels and traditional B&Bs to luxury chalets and five-star hotels, there’s a huge range of accommodation options throughout the villages of Ski amadé. skiamade.com/accommodation
HOW TO GET THERE
Ski amadé is just 50km away from the city of Salzburg. Excellent transport links make it easy to reach quickly by car, train or shuttle. Munich Airport is also an option, a two-hour drive away. skiamade.com/arrival
NEED TO KNOW
Download the free Ski amadé Guide app that has everything from a friend tracker, to a 3D piste map, to live routing to get you to the nearest mountain hut or navigate the fastest way home.
The My Ski amadé Friends Club opens up a world of benefits with ski pass reductions, local business promotions and special offers. skiamade.com/my
Reserve ski gear for the whole family online and pick it up on arrival at one of 27 Intersport rental shops across Ski amadé.
Check out the Made My Day initiative, with activities like ski yoga, gourmet safaris, backcountry ski touring, video coaching, high-altitude breakfasts or dawn gondola rides to jazz up your ski day.
Use the Ski amadé online early-booking system to buy your ski pass at the absolute best price. The earlier you book, the cheaper it is…
with Dan Charlish
MY JOB IN A NUTSHELL...
I’m the founder of national youth charity Snow Camp, so my job is to ensure the charity, and our fantastic team, are effectively supporting as many young people as possible through our Snow Camp programmes.
HOW IT ALL BEGAN…
I always wanted to be involved in the charity sector. In the early days I worked for Christian Aid and, after seven fantastic years in Africa and India, I made a move to work more locally in London. I started a youth project in Stockwell in the middle of five inner city estates, and Snow Camp was launched from this in 2003. The first season we took 13 young people from our youth club to Les 2 Alpes. We did it on a shoestring: loads of people volunteered and the impact of that first week on attendees was huge. They were so much more confident, they felt new potential, and they had higher aspirations. I could see we had something that was powerful: combining snow sports with life skills and youth work.
MY TYPICAL DAY...
The founder of national youth charity Snow Camp shares his vision, his hopes, and how it feels to really make a difference to people’s lives
I don’t really have a typical day, which is probably why I still love this job and why I’m still passionate about the charity 21 years on.
We have a great team run by Lara Kinnear, our MD, and I love to be involved across the charity, so I might be talking to the team about the next fundraising event we are running, or programme we are launching, or staff member we are recruiting…
I spend a lot of time meeting our supporters, old and new, and making sure they see the huge impact of their support, perhaps joining them at the snow centres to meet the young people and see our programmes in action. I love getting out and about to meet anyone who is interested in our work; there is an amazing Snow Camp community behind our charity and we are so grateful for their support.
I also love working with the team to run our fundraising events. Our next event is the AJ Bell 3 Valley Rally taking place in Val Thorens in late April, hosted by our wonderful patrons Chemmy Alcott, Jenny Jones, Graham Bell and Tim Warwood. At the moment we are finalising all the plans and getting teams signed up ready for the big event!
THE HIGHLIGHT OF MY CAREER SO FAR...
In 2023 we had our 20th anniversary and celebrated with a gala dinner at the Underglobe in London. That was a special evening: a room filled with 350 of our supporters and a chance to look back on 20 years of Snow Camp. Perhaps the part I Ioved most was having the stage filled with young people, some from the earliest years of Snow Camp – so now in their late 30s – going right through to our current young people and apprentices. Hearing all their stories and the way Snow Camp has helped them and positively impacted their lives made it all worthwhile.
WHAT I LOVE MOST ABOUT MY JOB...
I love snow sports, charity work and working with young people, so I will never take for granted the fact that I still get to combine all three in my job. But I also love starting and growing projects – and seeing staff step up and be part of the vision is always so rewarding. When I look at our staff team, and all the passion, ability and commitment, I couldn’t ask for a better group of people to work with. I know Snow Camp is in safe hands.
THE HARDEST PART IS...
The fundraising. We now work with over 1,000 young people a year, across four regions (London, Midlands, the North West and Scotland) running programmes year-round at the snow centres and dry slopes, taking young people from absolute beginner to instructor. We have 20 staff, including the programmes team and well-being team based in each region, with 10 apprentices supporting them. We need to raise around £1.1 million a year to deliver all this work, and we are always looking for more fantastic supporters to get involved and help us make a difference.
IF I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE PLACE TO SKI FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE...
For me and my family it would be Trysil in Norway. We went three years running when the children were just getting the hang of skiing and had such amazing holidays. The light is stunning, the snow abundant, the resort pretty and quiet, and the people friendly – it’s a magical place
Find out more at snow-camp.org.uk
ISÈRE, NEW HEIGHTS AWAIT
ALPE D’HUEZ • AURIS-EN-OISANS CHAMROUSSE • LE COLLET
LES 2 ALPES • LES 7 LAUX • OZ 3300
VAUJANY • VILLARD-CORRENÇON
Les Saisies
Great-value skiing, bountiful chalet accommodation, and a history of drama and intrigue at the 1992 Olympics… Welcome to Les Saisies
WHERE IS IT?
Les Saisies is part of the sprawling Espace Diamant region, tucked into the peaks that include Notre-Dame-de-Bellecombe and Praz Sur Arly. Like many of the best resorts in France, Les Saisies is situated one wrong (or right) turn off the Chamonix Valley D1212, this time just after leaving Albertville, and is the heart of the six village resorts that make up the 192km of pistes.
WHY IS IT SO GOOD?
There are two reasons why Les Saisies stands out for SKI. Firstly, it is a pocket-sized French ski resort, purpose built for all things ‘ski’, creating a perfect combination of in-resort amenities and plenty – and we mean plenty – of chalets. On snow, the Espace Diamant is perfect for easygoing cruising, replete with gentle blues and mellow reds. Secondly, Les Saisies is one of the latest recipients of the Flocon Vert award. This award – which translates as ‘green snowflake’ – is run by a French environmental collective and certifies resorts and mountain communities that have taken exceptional steps to protect their local environment and economy from the effects of climate change. Traditionally more snow-sure than other French resorts at a similar altitude, Les Saisies’ snow record is now being challenged by climate change, however the resort is countering this with an increased snow-manufacturing infrastructure. Alongside commitments to using more
green energy, Les Saisies has been noted for its commitment to supporting a ‘four season’ and locally-focused economy. This means there is plenty to do – winter and summer – on and off the slopes, including Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, dog sledding and spa days.
WHY GO NOW?
More and more skiers are looking to go to France – 60% of British skiers, according to the latest data from the Ski Club of Great Britain. At the same time, the availability of chalet accommodation – long the favourite of many of us – across the French Alps has been declining, thanks to the doublewhammy of staff availability following Britain’s departure from the EU and inflationary pressures of recent years.
Les Saisies still boasts a wide range of chalet accommodation, much of it ski-in/ ski-out. Alongside these, several hotels also offer some flavour and variety to the resort. And what’s more, Les Saisies boasts some of the best-value skiing in France.
That’s not to say the resort is not averse to spending money. A brand new Douce/ Grattary lift will add an extra third capacity to the pair of lifts that service the summit of the region just above 2,000m, and are part of a huge €110m investment into the lift and snowmaking infrastructure of the whole Espace Diament region.
DON’T MISS…
With the Olympics returning to the French Alps in 2030, it is always nice to reminisce about the last time the Winter Olympics came to town: Albertville 1992, which saw cross-country and biathlon events hosted in the region. You can remember all the adrenaline highs of these games through an Olympic-themed escape room challenge, located right on the piste. Can you solve the case of sabotage during the grand final of the Les Saisies biathlon?! ❚
ALTITUDE: 1,180-2,050m
PISTES: 60 local pistes over 77km; 146 over 192km in the Espace Diamant ski area
SKI LIFTS: 84 across the Espace Diamant ski area lessaisies.com
There
are several ways to deliver snow onto a piste other than watching it fall from the clouds.
SKI’s EcoWatch dives into the practice of snow farming…
WORDS HENRY JOHN
ECO WATCH Snow farming
What is snow farming? Quite simply, it is the practice of saving snow from previous seasons and delivering it back onto the mountain, either in the summer or autumn to facilitate ‘summer skiing’, or in the early winter to provide underperforming pistes with a top up.
Snow farming has become more and more of a necessity for resorts as a result of the effects of climate change. Summer skiing in many places is becoming increasingly challenging, with poor snow cover and quicker melting snow restricting the ability of resorts to remain open, even at high altitudes. Tignes is one example of this, its summer season cut to just a couple of weeks on the Grand Motte glacier, where previously you were guaranteed good conditions for months. The other challenge presented by climate change is shorter seasons and more erratic snowfall, the latter especially common in the early weeks of the season. Snowfarming allows resorts to top up key slopes and make sure they hit their advertised opening days.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
Snow farming – like actual farming – takes time and patience. Snow that you wish to harvest for next season must be seeded, fertilized and wellwatered during the current season.
There are two common ways to farm snow, one a long-term method, one short. The long-term method involves piste bashers building existing snow into banks a couple of metres tall. Not only do these banks act as preservers in and of themselves, but they act as ‘snow fences’ to catch and preserve more snow as it falls and is blown along by the wind. The
bashers and pushed into large piles. These piles – and the long barrows featured in the first method – are then covered, often by a large reflective blanket (made, for example, by natural materials such as sawdust), and left to hibernate for the summer. Months later, the snow is then shifted back onto the pistes by piste bashers.
WHY NOT JUST USE SNOW CANNONS?
There are two reasons why snow cannons are not used widely in place of snow farming, despite their widespread availability in many resorts. Snow cannons require cold temperatures, normally overnight lows of around -3°C to be effective, which can limit their operational use if the problem for the resort is too high a temperature. Secondly, snow cannons don’t actually produce snow. Instead, they produce frozen water, which has a different texture and consistency to snow. Similarly, manufactured snow does not have the same shape of flake, meaning it doesn’t sinter and bind to other snowflakes, reducing the consistency and durability of the snow.
HOW EFFECTIVE IS SNOW FARMING?
Snow farming has become more and more of a necessity for resorts as a result of the effects of climate change
snow that has fallen in the troughs is then swept up by a piste basher and added to the peaks, thus increasing the preserved snow and allowing more snow to fall into the troughs and keep the cycle going.
Later in the season, commonly when the resort is closed, snow left on the mountain will be gathered up by piste
Snow farming is incredibly effective at preserving snow – around 80% survives through until October from the previous season. Snow itself is remarkably selfinsulating, so even if the outside air temperature is pushing past 30˚C, under the matting it will be as low as 2.5˚C. Several Finnish resorts have pioneered snow farming over recent seasons, including Levi and Ruka. Levi uses the practice to ensure that its early-season FIS Slalom races go ahead without a hitch, and so far – since 2016 – they have not missed a race. Contrast that with Zermatt-Cervinia, whose groundbreaking cross-border FIS race was cancelled in 2022 due to a lack of snow, and has now been permanently scrapped after poor weather conditions saw 2023’s event cancelled. Time will tell if the Swiss will soon jump on the snow farming bandwagon... ❚
SNOWMOBILES TAKE OFF IN SAISIES
GB Snowsport launches the GBS Alpine Foundation
GB Snowsport has announced the launch of a new initiative to support young British ski talent in the build-up to the 2026 MilanCortina Olympics and beyond. Called the GBS Alpine Foundation, it will provide funding to Britain’s high-performance Alpine ski team and also support the sport’s most promising young British talent, as GB Snowsport looks to continue Britain’s upward trajectory in Alpine skiing and support future generations of
You can now channel your inner racer on an exhilarating snowmobile ride in Les Saisies (les-volatiles.com), where the latest electric snowmobiles – imported from Canada – are available for trial. Silent, high-performance and durable, they boast a 120km range and emit no carbon dioxide. Extremely easy to handle, these machines – manufactured by Taiga in Quebec – enable holidaymakers to discover the beautiful snow-covered landscapes of the Beaufortain at sunset in a silence beneficial to both nature and fellow visitors. From €178 per hour (10-minute briefing + 50-minute ride) for two people on the same snowmobile, with the option of changing drivers.
British Alpine skiers.
“This is an incredibly exciting time for British Alpine skiing with our greatest ever generation of Alpine skiers,” said Juliet Foster, GB Snowsport Alpine Discipline Committee Chair. “Last season the team finished sixth in the Men’s Slalom World Cup Nations Cup, ahead of nations such as Italy, the USA, Canada and Sweden, who receive approximately £900,000 more in funding per athlete than their British counterparts, so this fund will make a huge difference to our performance as a nation.” The disparity in finances is due to Alpine
Cross-country skiing by night in Isère
Heading to the Isère (alpesisere.com) this winter? Keen to try something a bit different? Enjoy the new illuminated nighttime cross-country route at Bois Barbu in Villard-de-Lans. Accompanied by an audio guide, novice and experienced cross-country skiers alike can enjoy this immersive experience at dusk that covers 10 points of interest along the 1.5 km-long trail. Making a nice alternative to your typical après-ski activity, the experience has been designed by Orpheo, a key player in providing cutting-edge tour experiences for museums, cultural sites, gardens and monuments.
athletes not currently being eligible for full funding from the UK’s sport funding agencies, so they are heavily dependent on sponsors, benefactors and donors. For many years there has been considerable support for British Alpine ski racing programs from several individuals, alongside support from UK Sport, and the Foundation aims to bring these people together, creating a network of passionate supporters. At launch, the Foundation has already attracted support from eight donors, each of whom has contributed upwards of £20,000, with hopes to sign more donors as the season progresses.
BETTER SKIING
How to / with Warren Smith
Teach your friends to ski steeps
Guided by Goodlad
Skiing on a glacier: Bruce Goodlad has all the information you need to stay sharp and have fun
Goodlad's gear
The glacier skiing kit you need to invest in this winter
Kit doctor
Special report as two major brands announce a voluntary recall of avalanche transceivers
On test
Ski-Mojo and touring kit put through its paces
Kit guide 2025
The latest off-piste and touring gear
How to teach your friends to…
SKI STEEPS
Challenging yet oh-so rewarding, here’s how to get steeps nailed – and help your buddies crack the basics too, says Warren Smith
Nothing beats skiing with friends and family. In this winter’s technique series we’re looking at improving your skiing, while also covering how you can take these pointers and pass the information on to your skiing buddies. You don’t need to be a qualified ski instructor to do it: the tips and exercises can be kept clear and simple if you know what to look for. In the third of our series, we look at one of skiing’s most challenging yet rewarding techniques…
SKIING STEEPS
As we all know, skiing steep slopes is technically challenging compared to a cruisey blue run. It gets the heart beating faster and requires a good technical level, preparation and tactics. If you’re thinking of encouraging or helping your friends into a steep-skiing environment, here’s a list of key pointers to practise first. The key is perfecting your side slipping technique.
SIDE SLIPPING, DONE PROPERLY, IS A FANTASTIC SKILL – AND SOMETHING YOU’LL NEED TO MASTER TO SKI STEEP TERRAIN
Steep ’n deep: Warren shows us how it’s done
How to coach it:
1 // THE BASIC ALPINE POSITION
The thing with side slipping is that people think it’s the thing you do during your first ski week and then that’s it. But that’s not the case. Side slipping, done properly, is a fantastic skill – and something you’ll need to master to ski steep terrain. As a coach skiing with people on a weekly basis who want to ski steep slopes and off-piste itinerary runs, I wish it was something people practised on a regular basis and got really good at. The fact is that when I am coaching and ask someone to side slip without practise, they are usually out of balance on one side, or their slope entry direction is better on one side than the other. When skiing steep terrain you need to be competent at being able to skid and side slip at a high level to control your speed, scrape off speed on traverse paths and, if you have to for optimum safety, even side slip a whole face. We are sometime faced with this.
Learning to do it properly is very achievable. If you’re taking your buddies skiing and want to ensure their confidence and yours, here are a few things to do to get them side slipping and skidding well:
• First // Find a steep area of terrain on a piste. Something confidencebuilding and that runs out to shallower terrain in case you or your buddy lose balance. This is the first rule of thumb for learning steep slope skiing.
• Next // Try and get your friend to stand on the slope. Before you get going with side slipping and skidding down, check the setup of your buddy and make sure they are balanced and standing in a strong position. Here is the position you want to demonstrate:
• Stance // Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and parallel.
• Weight // Shift your weight slightly more onto the downhill ski.
• Upper body // Lean slightly towards the valley, and keep your shoulders slightly in front of your hips.
• Arms // Keep your arms slightly out in front and off to the side.
• Poles // Hold your poles with the tips pointed back, behind your feet.
• Head // Look towards where you’re going, not down at your skis.
• Body // Keep your body taut but not stiff, and make sure your position is comfortable and easy to hold.
• Core // Keep your core strong and engaged. This is sometimes known in the ski world as the basic alpine position Often overlooked and definitely under practised.
Work on this with your buddy and give extra practise and testing on the, once identified, weaker side or direction. A great idea at this stage is to video your buddy standing in this position on a steep area of terrain to see if you can spot a difference. Perhaps also film your friend in this position on the move with a short traverse. You can be guaranteed that both sides of standing or traversing won’t look the same. Work on it here at this foundation level until both sides match.
Scan here to watch the basic alpine position video tutorial.
2 // SIDE SLIPPING
Once the basic position is achieved in both directions, start variations of slide slipping and skidding. Use the following progression to teach this to your friends and family:
How to coach it:
Learning to do it properly is very achievable. If you’re taking your buddies skiing and want to ensure their confidence and yours, here are a few things to do to get them side slipping and skidding well:
• Static slide slip and skid by releasing your edges // Stand on the slope taking into account all the basics previously learnt. Slowly begin to flatten your skis to release them and allow them to start skidding. As you’re doing this, remember to check your friend’s posture and balance, and encourage them to allow a few metres of drop and then get the skis back on their edges to come to a halt. Try this in both directions. Remember, it’s great at this stage to show your buddy a mirror image of how to do it correctly, so standing opposite them is a great idea.
• Traverse to side slip or skid // Slowly turn your traverse into a slide slip. A classic problem for a lot of skiers is accelerating too fast on a traverse onto a steep face, or when trying to get into a lovely off-piste area. For me this is a classic scenario in an area like Chassoure-Tortin in Verbier. Being able to scrape off speed on a traverse is a great skill and will keep you safe on steeps. Before you get to this type of off-piste environment, practice it on a pisted red run. As you’re traversing, slightly push the tails of your skis down, just a little, and experiment with the flattening of the edges. Again, don’t flatten the edges as much as you would on the static exercise as it will be too much. Eventually try to complete a full across-slope traverse that is combined with skidding and a consistent, controllable speed.
• Fall line side slipping // This is a great exercise and skill development for controlled skidding. This can be related to when you are trying to get into a steep or off-piste environment but the entrance of the slope is too steep for your skill level (or a friend’s), conditions too icy, or if you are worried about the snowpack and are being cautious. This works in the practice phase best on-piste on steeper areas. Set your skis across the fall line and, similar to the static release of the edge, slowly release and control the side slip all the way through. Really focus on feeling sideways power at the lower foot and pre-empt being strong enough sideways to push away heavy snow, rubble, snow cookies, slush and powder. Here is when you will definitely know yours and your buddy’s weaker side. It is advantageous at this stage to work on slightly pushing and punching sideways in the middle of the fall line descent to increase your level and power in this position.
Scan here to watch the side slipping video tutorial.
Glaciers are one of the features that make skiing in the high mountains so unique and magical. But challenges are aplenty. Here’s Bruce Goodlad with the lowdown…
SKIING ON A GLACIER
There are few finer days in the mountains than making one of the classic glacial descents, like the Vallée Blanche in Chamonix or the Schwartztor in Zermatt. While epic, skiing on a glacier can be a serious undertaking. Traditionally, we didn’t ski on glaciated terrain until a thick layer of snow was covering and bridging the crevasses in the spring. However, skiers are getting bolder and bolder and are skiing in the high glaciated mountains earlier and earlier in the season. The very fact that we are wearing skis spreads our load/weight out over the length of the ski, therefore decreasing the chance of breaking through a snow bridge and falling into a crevasse. This is the main difference between travelling on a glacier in winter verses in the summer when we are on foot (and when our ground pressure is significantly greater), and why we always use a rope in the summer. We tie ourselves together (spread out), so that if one person falls in a crevasse their partner can hold the fall and pull them out. More about this later…
UNDERSTANDING GLACIERS
Glaciers are just snow that has accumulated over a long period of time, turned into ice, and started to move. Glaciers move downhill with gravity; they move by two different mechanisms. In one mechanism they flow over the bed surface lubricated by water. In really thick glaciers, where melt water may not be available, the pressure of the ice above can cause melting, and pressure melting at the base lubricates the flow of the glacier.
The other mechanism of movement is by internal deformation of the ice: as the ice moves it slowly morphs and bends. The problem is, if it moves too quickly, or any change in direction is too rapid, it fractures. This is why we get crevasses, seracs and ice falls.
The beauty of knowing this is that by looking at a map we can get a fair idea of where we can find crevasses on a glacier. If the glacier goes round a bend, you may find crevasses on the outside of the bend. If the underlying bedrock drops steeply then the glacier will not be able to deform, and you will likely find a serac/ice cliff or, in the case of a large change, an icefall. There are, of course, many subtleties, and just when you think you have got a handle on where crevasses are to be found something will catch you out. I remember finding a crevasse field in the middle of a large flat glacier in Antarctica. I couldn’t work out why they were there until someone pointed out that it was so cold, and the glaciers moved so slowly, that the crevasses had formed hundreds of kilometres away and had not yet closed up. ❱❱
RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO SKI TO0 CLOSE TOGETHER; THINK OF THE GLACIER AS A MINEFIELD – YOU DON’T WANT TO ALL BE SKIING, OR WORSE STANDING, TOGETHER
Proceed with caution: glaciers will vary from year to year, and even within the same season, depending on temperature and snow fall
PLANNING A ROUTE ON A GLACIER
When you are planning a route, have a good look at the map and try and glean any mention of crevasses from the guidebook. If you can, avoid any crevassed areas, then you have immediately reduced the chance of an incident.
Try to avoid the outside of bends on the glacier and any steepening areas, as these are almost certainly crevassed. When ski touring in the spring we often spend the early part of the day in the dark so the snow will be well frozen, crevasse bridges stronger, travel easier, etc, but navigation is more challenging. The night before your ascent spend time studying the glacier and work out where your route is for the following day.
Glaciers will vary from year to year, and even within the same season depending on temperature and snow fall. If you ski the same glacier multiple times in the same season the crevasses may not be in the same place, and with more snow crevasses that were easy to spot may be more difficult to recognise.
When a crevasse becomes bridged by snow it creates a bell shape. Over time with wind and snow a bridge is formed that will be thicker towards the edge of the crevasse and thinner in the middle. The problem with this, as skiers, is that the only sign of a crevasse may be a crack in the middle, but the crack may be a significant distance from the actual edge of the crevasse. Sometimes the cracks aren’t in the middle too – I’ve been on glaciers in Antarctica where I
initially thought the cracks I could see were the middle of a crevasse, but were actually cracks at the edge of crevasse and it was over 20m wide. It is the crevasses that are completely hidden that pose the greatest threat. We can get clues as to where they are, using the techniques mentioned above. Then it’s a case of being really vigilant, looking for dips and cracks in the surface of the snow and avoiding these areas. You will often find crevasses at the bottom of rollovers in the glacier surface; the problem with these features is that they are often the one of the last areas of powder to be skied on the glacier, so if you get greedy you may be skiing straight towards a large gaping hole. When skiing in good sunlight these features are easier to spot; when there is cloud or flat light, they are much more difficult to read. One of the scariest descents of the Vallée Blanche I’ve made was on a beautiful sunny day when we has this strange phenomenon of drifting snow at knee height, where the surface of the glacier was obscured by the blowing snow. I couldn’t see any of the features on the surface and skied very slowly using every technique I had to feel my way. If the light is flat, you have to ski more cautiously so you can react, as you will often not see signs of crevasses until the last minute. Having a really good quality pair of low-light goggles is essential for this. When skinning, I use a pair of glasses with orange lenses as I find these are the best of reading the terrain.
HOW TO SKI ON A GLACIER
• Resist the temptation to ski too close together; think of the glacier as a minefield – you don’t want to all be skiing, or worse standing, together.
• When you stop make sure you are at least two ski lengths apart.
• When changing from skis to skins do it one ski at a time so your weight stays spread out in case there is a crevasse.
• Keep an eye on your team – imagine someone fell in a crevasse and you didn’t see it happen, where would you start to look?
• If I really can’t read the surface my only option is to rope up. I generally don’t have more than three people on a rope, as it is too easy to get into a spider’s web. In ascent, it is pretty easy to manage the rope, you just need to keep it on your downhill side. This way if one of your team drops into a crevasse the pull will be on your downhill side where it is easier to hold a fall. Skiing downhill this is really difficult, and the best technique is to snowplough being really careful not to ski over the rope. Ropes don’t react very well to ski edges.
• Ski with the rest of your team following in your tracks with a good spacing – the last thing you want to do is follow your friend into a crevasse. ❚
Next time: Bringing it all together to make informed decisions
Skiing on a glacier has inherent dangers, so your gear needs to reflect that. Here are the basics you need to stay safe
Goodlad’s Gear GLACIER SKIING KIT
The difference between off-piste skiing and skiing on a glacier is the step up in seriousness due to the objective danger. We discussed the practicalities of skiing on a glacier on page 58, so now it’s time to talk about the gear you’ll need.
Skiing with a guide will reduce your exposure to glacial hazards, as they know what to look for and have the experience to read the terrain. But, having said that, a guide – even on his home glacier – can’t know where all the crevasses are. Glaciers are constantly moving and the crevasses open and close as the glacier moves. We need to take some extra equipment with us, in case we – or someone in our party – falls into a crevasse. The most basic addition is a harness, which should be worn all the time when on a glacier. Falling into a crevasse is not the time or the place to start trying to put a harness on; you want to be ready for when your team lowers you a rope that you can clip into so they can pull you out. Many people wear a leash, which is a short
piece of rope that is clipped to your harness then onto the shoulder strap on your rucksack. If you fall into a constriction in the crevasse, you may not be able to reach your harness to clip in a rope, but you could clip into a rescue rope using the leash. They are a bit of a pain to ski with, so I’m on the fence about using them, but don’t be surprised if some guides insist you have one. If you do fall into a crevasse there is a chance you may have fallen onto a snow bridge. You might not know if this is the case, however, and may assume you are at the bottom. The snow you have landed on could be a thin layer that is easy to break through, with a gaping void underneath. When you land DO NOT stand up and walk around, as this may cause a secondary fall. Many crevasse fall fatalities in the Alps happen this way, where the skier dies in the secondary fall. I always have an ice screw with me and a 120cm-long sling with a screwgate karabiner. This way, if I fall in, I can attach myself to the wall of the crevasse by placing the ice screw then clipping myself into it with the sling and karabiner.
BASIC GLACIER SKIING KIT
HARNESS
There are many lightweight harnesses on the market that are designed for skiing. They are east to put on and pack really small in your rucksack when not in use. My personal favourite is the Black Diamond Couloir: it is easy to put on, has a central loop for clipping into, and a gear loop on either side for any extra equipment.
ICE SCREW
A lightweight screw with an aluminium shaft and steel tip is incredibly light. These come in various lengths and about 17cm is super versatile. The Black Diamond Ultralight is a good choice, but you will need a karabiner to clip it to your harness. Make sure you keep the protective end. Not only will this protect the teeth, it will stop the teeth from making lots of holes in your ski trousers.
120CM SLING AND SCREWGATE KARABINER
These can be used to clip you into your ice screw should you fall into a crevasse. They should be clipped to your harness, doubled or tied in a knot so they don’t dangle and get caught on things.
CREVASSE RESCUE KIT // HOW TO HAUL SOMEONE OUT
If someone falls into a crevasse then you need the kit to pull them out: this will include a rope and the kit to make a pulley system. It is pretty easy to make a solid anchor by burying your skis. Alternatively, if the snow is thin and you can dig down to ice, I will use two ice screws to create an anchor. When choosing a rope there are some amazingly thin and light options designed for ski touring. My favourite is the Petzl Rad Line: it is 6mm thick and doesn’t stretch, which means you can’t use it for climbing. Climbing rope is designed to stretch and absorb the impact of a fall, whereas the Rad Line is designed to be efficient when in a hauling situation where you don’t want any stretch. A 30m rope seems to be about the best compromise in length between weight, bulk and use. If I know I’m going to be on a complicated glacier I may take a longer one. If you’re using a thin rope like this then you will need a couple of mechanical devices that can grip the rope to create a 3:1 pulley system. The best combination of kit is also made by Petzl. I use a Micro Traxion, which grips the rope and has an integral pulley to reduce friction. I will then use a Tibloc paired with a karabiner with a small pulley to create the haul system. The Edelrid Axiom is particularly good. You will also need to add a couple of 120cm slings and some screwgate karabiners to attach the haul system to your anchor. You need to have two of these sets in your party; if the person carrying the rope falls into a crevasse, you will need a second set of rescue kit to pull them out.
PACKING LIST
• 30m Petzl Rad Line rope
• 2 x 120cm slings with snapgate karabiners
• 3 x screwgate karabiners
• Petzl Micro Traxion with oval screwgate karabiner
• Petzl Tibloc with Edelrid Axiom pulley karabiner
• I will usually carry a lightweight ice axe and crampons as well
Ski Beyond.
Official Ski Travel Partner
Ross Woodhall: Les 3 Vallées
KIT DOCTOR
Total recall
Over the past few months, two major brands have announced a voluntary recall of their latest avalanche transceivers. Why? The Kit Doctor has the lowdown…
WORDS HENRY JOHN
compared to previous iterations
Just check the quality of those batteries…
From left to right: Mammut have made design changes to the on/off switch
of the Barryvox and Barryvox 2 (far left), though it, and the Pieps Pro IPS, are fundamentally sound devices.
One question I get asked a lot is: “Which transceiver model would you recommend?” If I’m honest, there are few major differences between the key models of the leading brands, from Ortovox to Mammut, Pieps to BCA. They are all three-antenna units creating as broad a field of transmission as possible, and they are all digital, meaning they run off one frequency and one frequency only – and that frequency is fixed to an industry standard of 457kHz. The difference, therefore, tends to be in the ergonomics: how the ease of use varies between models, as well as, in many cases, the model and brand’s history of recalls. This last bit isn’t an exact science, but there are some stark differences in how they are handled.
To this end, Mammut’s Barryvox range has always been at the forefront of any recommendations I make. Reliable, with no history of badly managed recalls (note the careful phrasing), easy to use with by far the easiest method for getting into group check mode, and otherwise simple and ergonomic.
THE RECALLS
In early November 2024, Mammut announced the voluntary recall of their Barryvox 2 and Barryvox S2 units. These were brand new to market and, in ongoing research and development with the units, an ‘assembly fault’ with the on/off switch was found. Around two weeks later, Pieps announced a voluntary recall to fix problems with the battery housing of their Pro IPS units, which hit the market last year.
The Mammut recall is probably the most concerning of these. Mammut have made design changes to the on/off switch compared to previous iterations of the Barryvox and Barryvox 2, and those in the loop will be familiar with a previous recall – from a different brand – involving something similar. The flip side of that is, while this previous recall happened after a number of serious incidents involving both professional and recreational skiers, this latest recall was been made almost immediately after the units were released to market.
The Pieps recall is a little less alarming. While the design of the battery compartment may seem flawed, it is more to do with how low-quality batteries don’t perform properly in the unit.
MOVING FORWARD
So where does this leave us, if my go-to model of transceiver has now fallen victim to a recall?
Whilst the Ski Club would never advocate for members and skiers to ignore serious matters such as this, it is important to remain grounded. The issues with the Pieps IPS Pro, in particular, are driven by battery quality issues rather than serious flaws in the design of the units themselves – something the Ski Club’s Alpine Safety Advisor Bruce Goodlad has long banged the drum about for a huge myriad reasons; signal strength and range, battery life, and now how well they fit with the contacts. The Barryvox 2 & S2 are brand new to market, too, so in theory are effecting a tiny number of skiers this season.
And while a recall is never good news for the brands or users in question, the quick and responsive nature of these recalls should leave backcountry users with faith in the brands in question. Pieps initiated a much-maligned recall for a series of older units some years ago, which caused many to question their faith in the brand. However, they and their sister brand Black Diamond have done a huge amount of work behind the scenes to ensure the same mistakes are not repeated, any subsequent issues are handled better, and the pair can now be considered serious ski brands for serious skiers.
Similarly, while I have my own, personal reservations about some of the design changes made between the Barryvox/ Barryvox S and the Barryvox 2/Barryovx S2, I shall continue to use my Mammut Barryvox unit with absolute confidence. ❚
ON TEST
Ski gadgets are go as we put the latest high-tech bits of kit to the test
SKI-MOJO £594 Tested by: HENRY JOHN
Despite my best efforts (i.e. many years of skiing, contact sports, and working for the Club, where the average intact knees is 1.45 per person!), my knees are still in relatively good shape. It was with some interest, therefore, that I strapped myself into a pair of Ski-Mojos for a taste of my (hopefully not) inevitable future. Many readers will be familiar with Ski-Mojo braces, having either used them or seen them lined up along with the less high-tech knee brace options in your local ski shop. They act as a sort of exoskeleton, providing support and stability through springs mounted on braces that attach to your boots and a harness around your waist.
I was measured up for a pair by the Ski-Mojo team, and my boots drilled to accommodate the lower fixings (it’s fine, I needed a new pair anyway). For those uncertain about committing to Ski-Mojo, a nondestructive clamp option is available to get an idea of the equipment.
Once the system is on, it’s on – it can’t be removed quickly like a knee brace. You will need to remember to engage the suspension mechanism at the top of each run, and disengage it before you hop on the lift at the bottom.
It took a couple of runs to get used to the new equipment. The feedback from the exoskeleton kept me very upright – in direct contradiction to everything Chemmy had taught me at her indoor summer sessions – and, as a result, my technique suffered. The braces seemed overwhelming, completely defeating the point of the product. A lot of this was to do with the exceptionally firm, chalky snow we encountered when skiing in Italy last February.
After a few runs, things began to settle. As I got used to the extra feedback, I was able to adapt my technique to the device. Suddenly, a switch flicked, and I found myself elevating and descending with my legs, rather than just folding my body (another technique flaw of mine).
The firm and chalky conditions were perhaps ideally suited to trialling Ski-Mojo. My skis were rattling around on the surface, struggling to find grip on the snow and knocking my confidence. But with Ski-Mojo engaged, it was a different story; my skis gripped well, creating a solidity that meant I could keep going all day long. At one point, I could only engage one spring before setting off for a run – the difference between engaged and disengaged was night and day, and drove home the work the braces were doing to keep me skiing confidently.
Because the Ski-Mojo device takes around a third of the weight off your legs, it can help you last longer on the skis, too. Our ski day was cut short by the deteriorating conditions, but I felt – from both a stamina and confidence perspective – that I could have gone on until last lift.
The whole brace system dismantles almost completely, and is stored in a travel bag. The longest piece is shy of a foot long. You do need to remember some of your measurements every time you put the piece together, but there is an adjustable insert that is kept in the tubes to ensure you always get the right length.
I was dubious as to why I was testing Ski-Mojo, what with my even number of intact knees and comparative youth. However, I was pleasantly surprised. Perhaps it was slice of luck with the poor conditions, but I felt my confidence and control going through the roof with every turn.
VERDICT: Ski-Mojo is designed for anyone who wants that extra edge: racers who want to stay in the game longer, older skiers trying to keep up with grandchildren, skiers recovering from knee injuries, and the average skier who wants, or needs, the extra confidence. ski-mojo.com
PETZL TOURING EQUIPMENT
Tested by: ANGUS MACIVER
I was lucky to get my hands on some Petzl gear for my Canadian backcountry adventure in March 2024 (read all about it on page 38). We were based at Burnie Glacier Lodge, which involved glacier touring and skiing. Included in the kit list was a climbing harness, ice axe and head torch. The trick with this kind of skiing is to have kit that isn’t too heavy and Petzl provides some of the best solutions to this conundrum…
PETZL FLY HARNESS £110
This is amazingly light, weighing only 130g (100g if you remove the more comfortable foam belt insert), and comes in a carry bag to keep it neat. It clasps around your middle and legs using an ingenious set of loops and knots – no buckles or clips. They are obviously adjustable, but for my girth the first setting was fine.
It’s a step-in kind of harness, designed so you don’t have to remove your ski boots to put it on; then you just do up the waist and the leg loops and you’re good to go. There are loops and holders for rope slings and ice screws. It actually works too – we all had to be lowered down a steep, icy pitch and it held my 86kg just fine. The only thing that took a bit of working out was when putting the harness on I found it a bit too easy to attach one leg to my waist, thus hindering the ability to walk, but I soon got the hang of it.
PETZL RIDE ICE AXE
£100
An ice axe that weighs only 250g, described as ‘light-hearted, with nerves of steel’. It fits neatly onto the external ice axe carrier on my backpack and we used it only in training (to make sure it worked we clambered around a glacier cave). The pick is as strong as you’d want, made from steel, and the aluminium shaft is light with the right kind of bend. Although it works well going up steep slopes, my fellow skiers with longer axes found them more supporting walking along ridges. For lightweight ski touring kit, though, there’s not much that comes near it.
PETZL SWIFT RL HEADTORCH £120
Again, it’s lightweight at 100g, and clever. It works as a normal headtorch (though it’s rechargeable), but the smart part is that adjusts to both ambient light and speed. The main time I used it was when we had to head off into the forest at 6am on an undulating track. The Swift RL was able to brighten and lengthen the beam for skiing down, then pooled it closer and dimmer for the skinning up. It can range in brightness from 18 lumens up to 1,100 lumens, with a minimum burn time of seven hours.
VERDICT: The lightest weight touring equipment in the business. Clever tech, thoughtful designs: gear you can count on to perform when you need it to. petzl.com
OFF-PISTE + TOURING GEAR
Feel like a powder pro from the summit to the skin track in this season’s pick of the best gear, as chosen by the experts at Snow + Rock
This curated snowsports collection has been handpicked by fellow snow enthusiasts –because selecting the right gear is essential for an unforgettable ski trip. Snow+Rock’s in-store gear specialists are on-hand to guide you to the perfect choices. In partnership with the Ski Club of Great Britain, they strive to provide expert advice, premium products and an unforgettable winter season. Plus, don’t forget that Ski Club Members enjoy a 15% discount at Snow+Rock!
THE MOUNTAIN STUDIO D-7 ULTRALIGHT HOOD JACKET £288
Co-founded by World Cup Alpine ski racer
Marcel Hischer, The Mountain Studio make innovative, high-quality mountain gear. Their latest ultralight unisex down jacket is built with a soft and packable lightweight outer and filled with 700FP down. Designed to offer lightweight insulation under a shell, or to be stashed in a pack ready to pull out when the temperature plummets.
ARC’TERYX KYANITE HOODY £180
A versatile and breathable fleece layer, ideal for an extra boost of warmth on the skin track or at the summit. Whether layered up or worn solo, it has a soft feel and comfy fit, and with four-way stretch it won’t restrict your movement on challenging climbs. It’s made with Polartec Power Stretch Pro, has two hand pockets, and boasts a low-profile hood that’s designed to stay in place when the wind starts blowing.
NORRØNA TROLLVEGGEN
THERMAL PRO FULL ZIP FLEECE JACKET £199
Stay warm with this cosy, sherpa-style fleece jacket. Crafted with Polartec Thermal Pro, this lightweight, breathable zip-up is exceptionally warm, durable, and quickdrying. Made from recycled polyester, it's a sustainable choice too. Perfect for layering up on powder day with nifty, slim-fit cuff gaiters that slot neatly under gloves.
DESIGNED TO OFFER LIGHTWEIGHT INSULATION UNDER
A SHELL OR STASHED IN A PACK READY TO PULL OUT WHEN THE TEMPERATURE
PLUMMETS
BLACK DIAMOND COEFFICIENT HOODY £140
This slim-fit fleece hoody from Black Diamond is the ideal mid-layer for fastmoving ascents. Made with Polartec Power Dry fleece with a gridded interior for better moisture-wicking and breathability, it’s great for regulating your temperature on the move. We love the under-helmet hood, handy chest pocket, and quick-drying, stretchy fabric: a ski touring must-have.
MOUNTAIN STUDIO
M-3 LIGHT
TECH FLEECE HALF ZIP £108
This lightweight and stretchy mid-layer is built for throwing on over your thermals. Fast drying, breathable and stretchy, it works hard to regulate your temperature, with a gridded backer for expert moisture management. A great mid-layer for high-output days in the skin track, or as an extra in your layering system on the coldest days.
ARC’TERYX SABRE SV JACKET £800
With a longer length and Gore-Tex Pro Most Rugged construction, the Sabre is built to deal with the wildest weather. Simple, stylish and clean-cut, this jacket prioritises complete protection in a fuss-free package. It has a helmet-compatible, adjustable hood, that’s expertly engineered for easy head turn without compromising peripheral vision, and the jacket can even be attached to the Sabre Bibs for a completely sealed-in setup.
ARC’TERYX SABRE BIB £650
PATAGONIA SNOWDRIFTER
JACKET £400
Going hard in the backcountry never felt so soft! Built with lightweight, soft-feel fabric, the Snowdrifter rivals any softshell shell for that comfy, flexible, stretchy feel. Highly breathable with a plush backer, it’s perfect for spring days in the backcountry. When the weather turns, the PFC-free H2NO outer easily deflects wind, sleet and snow. Complete with pits zips and plenty of pockets, it’s perfect for the off-piste explorer.
PATAGONIA SNOWDRIFTER
THE MOUNTAIN STUDIO Z-2 GORETEX PRO 3L SHELL JACKET £810
Engineered for the most demanding alpine environments, the Z-2 offers expert protection for skiing, snowboarding and ski touring. Crafted from super-durable 80 denier Gore-Tex Pro, this rugged shell is built to withstand extreme conditions, keeping you completely dry, protected, and comfortable. When the storm hits, take refuge under the protective helmet-compatible hood and just keep on skiing.
Big mountain bibs for freeride lovers, engineered to endure the demands of backcountry terrain. Offering excellent durability and top-tier weather protection, the Sabres are made with three-layer Gore-Tex with an ePE (PFC-free) membrane. Fully equipped for the backcountry, they have a full-size bib to seal out the snow, handy pockets for easy-access storage, and excellent articulation to make your life easy on steep bootpacks.
BIB £380
Patagonia’s lightweight, backcountry-ready Snowdrifter Bibs combine soft, stretchy fabric with serious storm protection to keep you dry and comfortable on both the ups and the downs. Lightweight with a minimalist design, they have a handy drop-seat function for quick loo breaks, three pockets to keep essentials close, and protective gaiters to seal out the snow.
THE MOUNTAIN STUDIO Y-1 GORETEX PRO 80D 3L SHELL PANT £585
These high-performance ski pants are designed to offer optimum freedom of movement for challenging climbs and powder lines. Made from an 80 denier, three-layer Gore-Tex Pro with 100% taped seams, they’re designed to keep the weather out while still being breathable to keep you comfortable. Featuring useful pockets, adjustable venting, and a comfy high waistband, they’re perfect for the adventurous skier.
BLACK DIAMOND FACTOR SHELL JACKET £550
The perfect partner to the Factor bib (below), this jacket feels protective for the coldest days of lift-served freeriding, while lightweight enough for big mountain tours. Built with BD.dry waterproof, breathable and windproof technology, it will keep you dry in any conditions. The soft lining adds that extra luxe feel and there’s ample storage to keep your essentials within reach.
BLACK DIAMOND FACTOR BIB £500
These bibs are built for all-season riding, whether you’re venturing out on a backcountry adventure or lapping your favourite slopes on a powder day. Durable, functional and stylish, we love the freeride cut and low-profile adjustable suspenders. There’s a stretch panel at the back for easy on-and-off and added breathability, and side vents for dumping heat when things warm up in the skin track.
NORRØNA LOFOTEN GTX PRO JACKET £729
This jacket offers expert-level durability, protection and mobility, engineered to endure the harshest weather. Built with Gore-Tex Pro Most Breathable, made with more than 50% recycled fibres, it’s fully featured with large zip pockets for quickly stashing skins or gloves, and a protective, adjustable hood. With a zip-off pow skirt and drop hem at the back, it’s designed for deep days in the mountains.
THE MOUNTAIN STUDIO S-5 2L STRETCH INSULATED JACKET £585
Protective, warm and stretchy, this stylish ski jacket from The Mountain Studio is built for all conditions. It has fully taped seams and an adjustable, helmetcompatible hood with laminated visor for better visibility in blizzard conditions. Designed for all-mountain shredding, it’s insulated with two weights of PrimaLoft Gold Eco, with more around your core for added warmth and a lighter insulation in the arms for better mobility.
NORRØNA LOFOTEN GTX PRO SKI PANT £629
The original freeride pants for big mountain skiers, the Lofoten GTX Pro Pants are waterproof, durable and highly protective. They have a regular freeride fit with articulated knees, heaps of storage, and ¾ length two-way outer zips, so you can completely control airflow on demanding climbs. Versatile and highly durable, these ski pants have you covered for all conditions.
THE MOUNTAIN STUDIO P-5 2L STRETCH INSULATED PANT £405
These waterproof, breathable and stretchy ski pants are insulated with PrimaLoft Gold Eco, a premium synthetic insulation made with 55% recycled content. Built with four-way stretch, they give you total flexibility to move, and have a super-comfy waistband with additional insulation at the lower back. Perfect for cold days chasing fresh tracks through the trees.
WHEN IT COMES TO SKIING OFF-PISTE, YOU’RE ONLY AS SAFE AS THE KIT YOU CARRY…
SALOMON SHIFT ALPHA BOA 120 SKI BOOTS £660
The Salomon Shift Alpha BOA boot range is totally new for this season. The 120 delivers the support, drive and control you need for any descent, then a flip of the rear lever frees the cuff for a smooth stride when skinning back up for that next powder lap. It has a GripWalk sole for negotiating slippy car parks or rocky bootpacks, with toe and heel pin inserts for maximum binding compatability. The BOA H+i1 dial and cable closure, incorporating Salomon’s new Exobelt tech, wraps the foot for incredible control.
Start your day hounding down the freshies and finish it ripping up the whole mountain. The Ripstick 96 is that one-quiver ski you’ll reach for daily use. Giving you agility in all snow conditions, it’s the perfect rig for some float in soft snow and cranking a turn on the piste on route to your next lap. Fancy a tour? Pair up with a tech binding for an epic all-terrain setup.
MARKER ALPINIST 12 BINDINGS £400
These are a lightweight, reliable option for backcountry skiers who want performance without extra weight. With a sturdy design and easy step-in pin system, they’re perfect for uphill missions and confident descents. They feature an adjustable release range, heel risers for steep climbs, and excellent power transfer. Whether you’re tackling long tours or short hikes to fresh powder, these bindings keep your setup light and your skiing smooth.
ELAN WOMEN’S RIPSTICK 88 £599
Lightweight, nimble and unflappable on all terrain, the Ripstick 88 is an all-mountain crusher. With enough width to cope in deep snow and a powerful carbon construction to cut through crud, hardpack and chop, this ski is a whole lot of fun no matter what the conditions. Perfect for the intermediate to expert all-mountain skier and works great with a touring binding too.
ORTOVOX RESCUE SET DIRACT VOICE TRANSCEIVER SET £430
A full rescue set for the aspiring backcountry skier, complete with transceiver, shovel and probe: essential gear for anyone venturing off-piste. The Diract Voice transceiver provides voice instructions in addition to the usual onscreen navigation to give you that extra bit of direction in the most stressful situations. Lightweight, strong and reliable, the shovel and probe are designed to be stashed in your pack (which is hopefully where they’ll stay).
WOMEN’S ATOMIC HAWX PRIME 85 BOA GW BOOTS £310
While it doesn’t have a walk mode for touring escapades, this medium-volume boot is ideal for women looking to explore the whole mountain. Boasting a smooth, soft flex, it features the BOA Fit System on the lower shell, which wraps the foot, offering a precise fit that can be micro-adjusted in both directions. If you want a quick release for the ride up the hill, or to take your boots off, simply pull the dial outwards to immediately de-tension the cable. GripWalk soles complete the package.
HESTRA ARMY LEATHER GORE-TEX
5 FINGER GLOVES £165
Stay warm, dry and ready for powder with these waterproof five-finger gloves. Featuring a Gore-Tex ePE (PFC-free) membrane, durable army leather and cosy G-loft insulation, they handle harsh conditions with ease. The pre-curved fit ensures a great grip on poles and the snowlock cuff keeps the powder out.
OAKLEY FLIGHT DECK GOGGLES £182
Taking inspiration from the helmet visor of fighter pilots, the Oakley Flight Deck maximises your field of view, while Ridgelock Technology allows for quick and easy lens changes without compromising the lens seal.
HESTRA WOMEN’S FALL LINE 5 FINGER GLOVES £120
These women’s-specific gloves offer warmth, durability and a perfect fit for freeriders, designed with a slimmer cut for narrower hands. Made with treated cowhide, they’re tough against the elements, with soft fleece and synthetic insulation to keep fingers toasty. A pre-curved design provides great pole grip, and they have wrist straps and carabiner clips to ensure they don’t get lost.
SWEET PROTECTION TROOPER 2VI MIPS HELMET £290
A game-changer for hike and ride adventures, the thermoplastic laminated carbon fibre construction, two-piece shell construction and unique impact shield make this one of the most advanced helmets on the market. Complete with MIPS, which reduces rotational forces on the brain, you'll have the confidence to tackle any descent.
SALZBURGER HOF LEOGANG
A Premier Four-Star Superior Hotel in Leogang
Experience the perfect combination of skiing, relaxation, and gourmet dining at Salzburger Hof Leogang, a top four-star superior hotel. Our dedicated team is committed making your stay truly unforgettable, catering to your every holiday need.
· Unforgettable and sustainable holidays: Enjoy memorable experiences designed for all generations.
• Infinity sky-pool: Take in stunning views while swimming in our sky-pool.
• Superior half-board: Savour exceptional dining included with every night’s stay.
• Proximity to adventure: Located just 99 meters from the cable car and slopes.
• Extensive skiing opportunities: Access to 270 km of slopes, 70 ski lifts and 60 charming huts.
• Easy accessibility: Just a one-hour drive from Salzburg airport.
At Salzburger Hof Leogang, we strive to provide a remarkable holiday experience tailored to your desires.
CLUB TALK
New Year blues… and greens, red and blacks. The Freshtracks and Mountain Tracks holidays that will get 2025 off to a winning start
Reps spread
News from the Club’s repping scene this winter
Rep diaries
Bill Ashford shares his passion for Méribel
Meet the team
We chat to more members of Ski Club HQ
Club news
The latest news, offers and events for Members
Ask Chemmy
Chemmy Alcott gives her thoughts on skiing’s GOAT Mikaela Shiffrin
From the archives
We delve into the Ski Club’s rich history Snowmail Your news and views
New year blues... and greens, reds and blacks
Make this the year you tick off every Near Year wishlist and let Freshtracks and Mountain Tracks make your dreams a reality
Ski Club Freshtracks prides itself on its unique formula. The Club pairs skiers of the same ambition and the same ability to ensure you are always skiing with people of the same level, who want the same thing from their Ski Club holiday.
So, for those looking to drive on their skiing this season, or simply banish the New Year blues, there are a plethora of Ski Club trips for you this winter.
That extends to those looking to be a bit more adventurous as part of their New Year’s resolutions, too. Mountain Tracks is on hand with its usual slate of touring and off-piste trips, and this year has introduced some brilliant new destinations to get your teeth into.
Whatever your plan, goals, and aims are for the rest of this season, the Ski Club and Mountain Tracks can take you there.
Going for Gold is the Ski Club’s ultimate techniquepolishing trip, spending time both on and off-piste to overcome those final hurdles and make you the best skier on the mountain – officially. Based in the Chamonix Valley, it brings together the finest instruction and our comfortable Club chalet base to give you the best platform to level up your skiing.
At the other end of the scale, the Club returns to an old favourite resort in Méribel, where Members had a great time with our Reps last season. Dedicated instruction from the local ski school will help you fine-tune your technique over three days, and you can explore the huge Three Valleys network with three days' social skiing with your Club Rep. Further afield, the Club and Mountain Tracks continue to grow their foundations in Eastern Europe, determined to show off an enviable snow record. Join Mountain Tracks for a cat-skiing odyssey in North Macedonia, taking in one of the least known – but snowiest – destinations outside the Alps.
However you want to spend the rest of the season – working on New Year’s resolutions or simply squeezing in as much skiing and as many destinations as possible – the Ski Club has a Freshtracks or Mountain Tracks trip for you.
Visit skiclub.co.uk/holidays and mountaintracks.co.uk for more.
GOING FOR GOLD
The ultimate week with the ultimate team of guides and instructors to push your skiing on and off-piste to make you, officially, the best skier on the mountain. Designed for Purple (Advanced) skiers and based in our comfortable Club chalet, as a team you will grow your skiing across Chamonix’s incredible valley to achieve the Ski Club’s highest ski profile.
WHO WITH? Ski Club Freshtracks
WHEN? 1 – 8 March 2025
WHO FOR? Advanced (Purple) On-Piste skiers
HOW MUCH? From £1,825, including seven nights' accommodation on a chalet-board basis, six days with instructors and mountain guides, and private minibus in resort.
MÉRIBEL ON-PISTE DEVELOPMENT
Another resort the Ski Club is returning to for 2025, this time off the back of a wonderful reception for our Club Reps and Members last season. On this trip, you will have three days with instructors building your skiing, before you get to explore the huge and varied Three Valleys network with your Ski Club Rep.
WHO WITH? Ski Club Freshtracks
WHEN? 22 – 29 March 2025
WHO FOR? Advanced Intermediate (Silver) and Advanced (Purple) On-Piste skiers
HOW MUCH? From £1,895, including seven nights' half-board on a twin-share basis, three days with instructors, and three days' social skiing with your Ski Club Rep.
WOMEN’S OFF-PISTE
Our unique women’s-only week returns to Flaine in March, providing an exceptional platform to grow your off-piste skiing across Flaine’s epic terrain, supported by our extraordinary team of instructors. Suitable for a wide range of off-piste abilities, this is a not-to-be-missed week.
WHO WITH? Ski Club Freshtracks
WHEN? 8 – 15 March 2025
WHO FOR? Intermediate (Red) to Advanced (Purple) Off-Piste skiers
HOW MUCH? From £1,695, including seven nights' twin-share accommodation on a chalet-board basis, transfers, five days' instruction and a social skiing day.
NORTH MACEDONIA CAT SKI
This small Balkan nation is home to an envious snow record, but is so far undiscovered by many outsiders. Based at the small resort of Popova Sapka –literally translated as 'Priest’s Hat' – you will spend three days setting out into the Shar Mountains on a cat to find perfect, untouched powder, before relaxing in the evening at the spa in your four-star hotel.
WHO WITH? Mountain Tracks
WHEN? 19 – 23 February 2025
WHO FOR? Skill 2 // Stamina 1 HOW MUCH? From £995, including four nights' half-board in a four-star hotel on a twin-share basis, three days' cat skiing, and transfers.
COURMAYEUR TECHNIQUE TOP-UP
The Ski Club returns to Courmayeur for 2025. This small but powerful Italian resort is the perfect environment to grow your on-piste skiing ability in the company of high-quality instructors, delicious Italian food, and stunning views over Mont Blanc and some of the most dramatic peaks in the Alps.
WHO WITH? Ski Club Freshtracks
WHEN? 15 – 22 March 2025
WHO FOR? Advanced Intermediate (Silver) and Advanced (Purple) On-Piste skiers
HOW MUCH? From £1,045, including seven nights' half-board on a twin-share basis, three days with instructors, and three days' social skiing with your Ski Club Rep.
SAINTE FOY TOURING & OFF-PISTE SKILLS
Mountain Tracks’ classic departure to the Tarentaise Valley returns, taking in Sainte Foy and numerous other resorts in this cathedral to skiing. Five full days of instruction will build your off-piste and touring technique, helping smash powder turns and nail your kick turns for whichever direction you choose to tackle the hills this season!
WHO WITH? Mountain Tracks
WHEN? Various dates throughout the season
WHO FOR? Skill 1 // Stamina 2
HOW MUCH? From £1,625, including seven nights' apartment accommodation, five full days of instruction, in-resort transfers, and instruction on a maximum 1:6 ratio.
ON ROCKY GROUND SKIING THE 2024 REPS’ COURSE
Fresh off the 2024 Reps’ Course, the Ski Club’s Henry John shares his experience, dramatic avalanche rescue and all…
Armed with their new personal leadership and group decision-making skills, this cadre of new Reps are ready and waiting to land in resort or on a Freshtracks holiday this season, and help you discover better skiing
We careened into the powder, our group of six, roller after roller taking us further and further away from the piste and deeper into the snow. It was a grey-butbrightening December afternoon, and the day after a serious powder dump had brought nearly two-thirds of a foot of fresh to the high slopes of Tignes.
Out front was Kristien, a railway engineer and the group’s lone snowboarder. Closely following his tracks were Callum and Arran, both outdoor enthusiasts of the highest order; Arran constantly searching out powder from his base in Chamonix or around the world, Callum taking his mountain bike, belay ropes, and yes, even his skis out close to his home in the Welsh hills. Right in front of me were Alex and Freddy, the youngsters of the group, sister and brother who should have been sat in a stuffy university lecture theatre somewhere, but instead were out here in Tignes – who can blame them?
As the piste finally disappeared from sight, we came over one last roller and encountered a stranger, stood shocked and alone in a little gulley. He told us that his two friends had been avalanched and buried; bereft of a phone signal to call 112, or his own avalanche gear to extract them himself, we had to help search for his friends.
We sprung into action, transceivers out and hunting for a signal – 15m away, 10m away, 9.5, seven, four, three, two, onepoint-eight. “Probe!” someone yelled, and we ripped out our probes and shovels. “Dig here!” came the cry, mere seconds later. We dug. And dug. And dug, and found the first victim... a lone glove, tucked away under a rock with a transceiver hidden inside.
The ‘stranger’ we had encountered was Mark, IFMGA guide and our leader on a day of avalanche rescue skills training: his friends were a spare glove and rucksack, plus a couple of spare transceivers. It was one day of an incredibly varied 11 that we would spend in Tignes in early December 2024 as part of the Ski Club Reps’ Course, or ‘Mountain Safety and Leadership Course’, to give it its full title.
WE CAME OVER ONE LAST ROLLER AND ENCOUNTERED A STRANGER, STOOD SHOCKED AND ALONE IN A LITTLE GULLEY
The art of decision making
An intensive two weeks of skiing and classroom sessions, the course sets you up and gives you all the tools you need to be a Ski Club Rep. Much of it is a continuation of the skills Club Leaders utilised back in the day – for example, several days for each group were spent demonstrating what high-level mountain leadership and team management looks like – but the majority of the course is spent developing this further to craft and mould it into the group decision making that forms the key backbone of the repping service since 2019.
Principally, that involved a lot of time spent on group decision making. Long gone are the days of “follow me!” and the Rep setting off with the group falling in behind in their tracks. Instead, the whole team decides where to go, when they want to grab a coffee, and which powder pockets they want to tear through. Keeping this quick, simple and, most of all, fun was the key message behind facilitating this decision making.
We started, however, with two days simply working on our skiing. All 36 participants on this year’s Super-Sized course were good skiers – a minimum of Purple (Advanced) both on and offpiste is required to join. But, with few of us having skied with instructors in the past decade or more, some work was needed to iron out a few bad habits.
The instruction received was universally reasoned to be some of the best we had experienced. Rab, Andy and Alex delivered crisp, subtle advice to finally defeat those demons that have long haunted our ski technique. Be it A-framing when carving, or not activating your inside leg when floating through powder, they spot your flaws and defeat them with a single masterstroke.
Discover better skiing
In the classroom, Owen, Danny and Angus worked through what it meant to be a Rep, especially in a day and age where ‘leading’, or any suggestion of it, is sincerely frowned upon. This carried out onto the mountain, where we spent two days taking it in turns to rep our group, helping the team explore options and reach a team decision.
Finally, mountain safety, covering the aforementioned avalanche rescue, skills on how to effectively manage a group in off-piste terrain, and a multi-day avalanche awareness course designed to make sure we never have to use the skills Mark was training us on, as we bowled through the powder towards him.
So what is the Mountain Safety & Leadership Course in this day and age of repping, not leading? Aside from a whirlwind of skiing, classroom time and information coming at you from all angles, it is as much about personal leadership and safety as it is about group leadership and safety. The course gives you the skills to ensure you are making appropriate decisions and skiing with the appropriate skill for wherever the Ski Club might send you. And if you can do all that, then you will have the skills and knowledge to help a group make the best team decisions and help everyone discover better skiing.
Every year, thousands of Members ski with the Club via our Reps in 30 resorts across the Alps, the Pyrenees, and North America. Every year, you can ski with confidence, knowing there is an experienced, expert, trained skier or snowboarder there to make sure everyone has a good time.
Armed to the teeth with these personal leadership and group decision-making skills, this cadre of new Reps are ready and waiting to land in resort or on a Freshtracks holiday this season, and help you discover better skiing. ❚
REP
JANUARY & FEBRUARY
It's a triumphant return to Méribel and smiles all round for Club Rep Bill Ashford
Méribellous. Is that a word, I hear you ask? Spellcheck doesn’t think so, but bear with me while I make my case. Méribel was my starting point for skiing; it was here where I learnt to ski back in 1993. I had wanted to become a Leader/ Rep after many weeks skiing with the SCGB. My family would join up with the Club for some exceptional skiing during our annual half-term ski trip, usually in La Tania in the Trois Vallées. In 2014, the Club removed all resort repping services from France. This was disappointing, to put it mildly, so I was very excited when last season, the Club was back in town. That said, it was with some trepidation that I kicked off the repping programme in Méribel in January 2024 (I was repping for two separate fortnights, in January and February). Would anyone show up? What would the accommodation be like? I needn’t have worried: Koby and David turned up the first morning, the former a Méribel regular who resigned his membership after the events of 2014; the latter, an interesting chap who carried a pair of poles with him, despite having no intention of ever using them. This would all change midweek when a lunchtime lesson had him planting them like an allotment owner in springtime. As to the accommodation, my Facebook friends would become familiar with the morning view from my window, and I could frequent Le Pain des Alpages bakery for my morning croissant, always served with a smile. However, one mystery remained throughout the season: the welcome pack contained all the essentials: a few cloths, washing up liquid, a bottle of wine... and four dishwasher tablets. The search for a machine to put the said tablets in defied all Reps throughout the season.
It was a quiet start to the season but things would pick up. I reunited with David Lindsay, the son of Peter Lindsay - the founder of Méribel, who started the resort in 1936 - and the ESF instructor who taught me in my beginner’s class back in ’93. He was generous with his time, both on and off the slopes. Just the mention of his attendance at the social hour transformed the event.
Speaking of which, I did have a soft spot for the Fifty/50 bar, before we relocated to the Barometer (its name evoked the plaintiff cry of “it was 50/50, Ref”, which I hear frequently when refereeing on the Bristol Downs).
More pertinently, the skiing days took off. On one day there were 15 Members and we were grateful to the Val Thorens Rep, Ian Wilson, who skied in to help. David ran a wonderful session for us one morning, when we were blessed with fresh snow.
Later in the season, David guided us on an off-piste day for the more adventurous Members, which ended in us skiing through a cave, where part of the Peclet
I HAD A BALL
IN
MÉRIBEL. SO MANY FINE FOLK, SO MANY GREAT RUNS
glacier had sheared off and formed this Mer de Glace of sufficient capacity that even the team mascot, Algie, who stands at six foot nine inches, could navigate.
Many memorable days were had by all. In between my repping fortnights in Méribel, I headed off to rep in Bad Hofgastein for a week, so I missed the adventure down the legendary Grand Couloir de Courchevel, surely the blackest black run in all Europe, with its nerve-jangling entrance via a knife-edge ridge into a welcoming bowl, before a drop into the steep grandeur of the couloir proper between the towering cliffs, looking across to La Plagne.
The photo (third down from the top on the right) doesn’t do it justice, but what is notable is the smile on Koby’s face: after nearly 40 years of coming to the Trois Vallées, this was the first time he had conquered it. Well done to all; I know David was immensely grateful to one of our more mature members, Mark, who despite his 78 years, skied down like a gazelle, helping others along the way, not least his wife, Elaine, anointed skiing
goddess of the week, by our ESF friend. One of my personal best days was perhaps unlikely: the weather presented a mix of snow, sleet and rain, with the latter being the dominant element. I didn’t expect anyone to show up that morning, but James and Michael were there and what a day we had! (I wasn’t sure at the start whether to do an equipment or sanity check). Runs that had been relatively simple earlier in the week became transformed by the wet conditions. For some reason, we seemed to have the mountain to ourselves.
I had a ball in Méribel. So many fine folk, so many great runs. I realise I have only mentioned one of the latter, so before I sign off I will add Jn’Bee, which was a favourite throughout; if you don’t know where it is, come along and find out. I will be there again this season from 18 January until 1 February, and we'll have reps in resort all the way through the season.
I understand the Trois Vallées is on the Epic Pass and this kind of sums up the time I had in Méribel; it was marvellous. In fact, it was Méribellous. ❚
A
Méribellous time was had by all
In the final instalment
of
this series, we introduce you to eight more key members of Club HQ
Hannah Sykes
FRESHTRACKS OPERATIONS MANAGER
JOB ROLE: Day-to-day running of Freshtracks Holidays.
YEARS AT THE CLUB: 3
LEARNED TO SKI: La Tania, 2004.
SKIING STYLE: All about the après!
FAVOURITE MEMORY: Waking up early with a bunch of ski season pals to hike to the top of the Solaise in Val d'Isère to watch the sunrise, and then skiing back down on empty corduroy pistes.
DREAM DESTINATION: Narvikfjellet, Norway. Skiing in Scandinavia has always been on my bucket list. From the breathtaking views to the long springtime days, not to mention the peaceful slopes and backcountry, it really does seem hard to beat. I better get working on my kick turns!
KNEES INTACT: 2
James Gambrill
JOB ROLE: Managing the team and delivery of the Club’s objectives.
YEARS AT THE CLUB: 5 (including repping for the Club in the late '90s!).
LEARNED TO SKI: Tirol in 1983.
SKIING STYLE: Frustrated racer…
FAVOURITE MEMORY: So hard to pick, but the Highlands Bowl in Aspen after fresh snow and with a local who knew every bump was pretty special… Also first proper descents with my kids, knowing that one day soon they will leave me for dust!
DREAM DESTINATION: I've been lucky enough to ski in several of my dream destinations; Telluride in Colorado remains my favourite by a whisker. I finally made it to Japan last winter and skied several resorts, but the other 700+ remain on the dream list.
KNEES INTACT: 2
Owen Chapman
HEAD OF MEMBERSHIPS
JOB ROLE: Heading up the Memberships team.
YEARS AT THE CLUB: 10
LEARNED TO SKI: Lake Louise, Canada, at the age of 2
SKIING STYLE: Off-piste - way offpiste! But I'll head back for a rosé!
FAVOURITE MEMORY: The most surreal and wonderful skiing experience was ski touring at midnight in Svalbard; poor daytime conditions meant we stayed on the boat until it cleared up - under the midnight sun! We had the most spectacular descent on a completely untracked mountain.
DREAM DESTINATION: Anywhere on a mountain - after Svalbard, very little can compete.
KNEES INTACT: 2 (but only one ankle!).
Verena Stella MARKETING ASSISTANT
JOB ROLE: Feeding the Ski Club's social media
YEARS AT THE CLUB: 3
LEARNED TO SKI: 4 years old, in the Dolomites
SKIING STYLE: Fair-weather skier
FAVOURITE MEMORY: The traditional vintage parties in Alta Badia, which take part on the last weekend of the ski season. Everybody is dressed in retro-style ski clothes and no carving skis are allowed. The weekend is packed with fun races, great live music and delicious food. It's a great way to finish the season!
DREAM DESTINATION: Japan!
KNEES INTACT: 2
THE TEAM PART III
Emily Morgan PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER
JOB ROLE: Looking after our partners to secure discounts for Members.
YEARS AT THE CLUB: 7
LEARNED TO SKI: Les Arcs family holiday circa 1997.
SKIING STYLE: Any, as long as it includes après.
FAVOURITE MEMORY: There are so many memories to pick from, but a 5am Ski-Doo to the top of the mountain in Pralognan-la-Vanoise in France to set up a race course and watch the sunrise with hot choc and croissants will always be a highlight!
DREAM DESTINATION: Japan! Japan! Japan! Not yet, but it's top of the list.
KNEES INTACT: 2
Eve McCartneySamples
AFFILIATES MANAGER
JOB ROLE: Getting the Ski Club’s name out there to whoever will listen.
YEARS AT THE CLUB: 6 months.
LEARNED TO SKI: 15, on a school trip to Les Gets.
SKIING STYLE: Passable, unless a few Aperols deep.
FAVOURITE MEMORY: An unreal bluebird powder day topped off by tackling the Swiss Wall in Avoriaz – this was just a few days before Covid closed everything down.
DREAM DESTINATION: Austria – quaint chocolate box ski resorts and schnitzel. What more could you want?
KNEES INTACT: 1
Katie & Jitendra THE FINANCE TEAM
JOB ROLE: We ensure the bills are paid, staff get their salary, and the team don’t run off with the credit card.
YEARS AT THE CLUB: Katie – 5, Jitendra – 3.
LEARNED TO SKI: We’re the non-skiers of the group! Maybe one day…
CLUB NEWS
Second Pery Medal Awarded to Jasmin Taylor
The Council of the Ski Club of Great Britain has awarded a second Pery Medal of 2024, this time to Jasmin Taylor – Britain’s most successful World Cup skier
Jasmin has competed in Classic, Sprint, and Parallel Sprint telemark events on the global stage since 2013. Her debut year, she won her first Telemarking World Cup medal - the first for a Briton in the Telemark World Cup. Two years later, she won her first medal at the World Telemarking Championships - again, Britain's first ever medal at the championships. Jasmin now has more than 50 podium wins to her name.
To crown an already impressive career, Jas won the Telemark World Cup in 2024, finishing on the podium 11 times, including five times placing first.
Jas’ achievements mark her as the most successful competitor in British ski history. It is for these achievements, including her recent World Cup success, that the Club awarded Jas the Pery Medal at an event in Tignes, France, before Christmas.
The Club has previously awarded the Pery Medal in 2024 to Dan Charlish, founder of snowsports charity Snow Camp, at the London Snow Show. The Pery Medal is the highest award the Ski Club can bestow, recognising significant contributions to the snowsports world, including charitable efforts, athletic success, or more general innovations in, and advocations of, snowsports. Previous winners include Sir Arnold Lunn, Sir Ranulph Fiennes, and Dave 'The Rocket' Ryding. ❚
CLUB NEWS
SPRING BLANC
SUN, PERFECT SLOPES & TOP EVENTS
SKIFUN UNTIL 4 MAY 2025
CLUB NEWS
Annual General Meeting sees Club in good health AGM 2024
The Ski Club’s annual general meeting took place in late November, in the build up to what is proving to be a busy '24/25 winter season
Club Chairman, Angus Maciver, and Chief Operator Officer, James Gambrill, spoke at length at the AGM in regards to the previous season, outlining that Membership numbers had held steady in the wake of large investment in Membership services. This investment has seen a rise in Members partaking in Club activities, too, thanks to an increase in the number of Rep resorts and Freshtracks holiday spaces.
The Club's return of Reps to France was highlighted as a distinct success last year, with five resorts seeing a return of the service – this has been expanded to eight for the '24/25 season off the back of this success. Reps worked closely in the resorts in which they were present to forge good relationships with all stakeholders, including local tourist offices and the Ecole du Ski Francais (ESF).
Club investment had seen the launch of a brand new website and membership database. This was rolled out prior to the '23/24 season in light of growing concerns regarding the sustainability of the old platforms. The Club extended its thanks in particular to Stu Bevan for his help in project managing the roll out of these new platforms, and who stepped down from his role on Council at this meeting. Walter Macharg, Club Treasurer, confirmed that the Club had sustained an operating profit for the '23/24 season, but had fallen slightly short of target for the year in light of growing costs of operating the Reps and
CLUB NEWS
Club receives legacy gift from late Member
Club honoured to receive a legacy gift from the estate of Ski Club Member Rodney Lucas
Freshtracks services. Better cost management has been put in place for the '24/25 season in response to this.
James Gambrill looked ahead to the '24/25, which he stated would be a season of stability and consolidation: making the most of the new IT platforms, continuing the steady increase in Rep resorts and Freshtracks holidays, and evolving the range of discounts available via a new 'Affiliates' category. Stu Bevan stepped down from Council after three years. Mark Colston and Andy Lapham – both Ski Club Reps with IT backgrounds – stood for, and were successfully elected to, Council. Holly Boucher, who has previous experience with the Ski Club’s Freshtracks team, was coopted onto the board. All three officers were re-elected to their positions: Trevor Campbell Davis as President, Angus Maciver as Chairman, and Watler Macharg as Treasurer.
The Council of the Ski Club is therefore as follows:
President: Trevor Campbell Davis
Chairman: Angus Maciver
Treasurer: Walter Macharg
Council Members:
Rick Krajewski
Chris Radford
Chris Baldwin
Jean Lovett
Kenneth MacAllister
Evelyn McKinnie
Mark Colston (elected November 2024)
Andy Lapham (elected November 2024)
A full copy of the Ski Club’s Annual Report can be found on the Ski Club website, alongside a recording of the AGM.
The Club was incredibly grateful to receive a legacy gift from the estate of Rodney Lucas, Ski Club Member, who passed away earlier last year. Rodney was a keen skier who loved his sport, and offered the gift as a way to help others share his passion.
The Council of the Ski Club extends its thanks and condolences to the family of Rodney, and has committed to using the funding as part of its Evie Pinching Award, to support young athletes. ❚
Reps service returns to Davos
The Ski Club is delighted to see the return of Ski Club Reps to Davos, after a two-year absence
Reps have once again returned to Davos. Faced with increased costs in running the service in the Swiss resort, the programme was removed from the resort prior to the '22/23 season. The return of the service has been made possible by the generous support of the resort itself.
The shared ski area between Davos and Klosters features six mountains to enjoy, each offering something different. Connections are provided on snow between the two resorts, as well as by a frequent and efficient rail service, so expect to share the mountain with the Ski Club Rep and Members in Klosters, at times, promising a fantastic on-snow experience! ❚
Our Rep is in Davos until 15 March 2025. Head to skiclubco.uk/resort/davos for more information.
The Ski Club magazine launches online
The digital version of SKI magazine will ensure you will always have the latest news, reviews and more at your fingertips
You can now enjoy SKI magazine in print and online! With the first two editions of this winter available in full, you can flick through the digital version on your personal device at your own pace, wherever you are in the world; from the balcony of your chalet to the breakfast table of your hotel, or in the comfort of your own living room. Alongside the fully digital 'flipbook' editions, articles are also published online
as individual entries, including previously published content and a handful of online-exclusive articles. Looking for a Kit Doctor piece, or trying to find the latest tit-bit of advice from Bruce Goodlad? You can sort and filter by categories to get straight to the article you need. ❚
Head to skiclub.co.uk to begin reading now.
Ski with confidence!
Ski Club Platinum Membership includes annual multi-trip travel insurance, for complete peace of mind.
Enjoy all the benefits of Ski Club Membership PLUS:
• Cover for up to 60 days skiing per year (up to 31 days single trip)
• Cover off piste, without a guide, outside of resort boundaries
• Summer holidays also covered by your Membership
• Option to extend your policy to enjoy season-long cover
PLATINUM
includes European Annual Multi-trip Travel Insurance
PLATINUM PLUS includes Worldwide Annual Multi-trip Travel Insurance
Get comprehensive value without compromising on quality. Bundle your travel insurance and Ski Club membership today with Platinum and Platinum Plus. Go to skiclub.co.uk for more information or call 020 8410 2015.
CLUB NEWS
Bumper Reps Course takes to the slopes of Tignes
One of the biggest cohort of aspirant Reps in recent memory helped kick off the season in Tignes with the Ski Club’s Annual Reps’ Course
Featuring no fewer than 36 potential Reps, this year’s annual Reps course battled uncertain snow conditions to learn the art and skill behind the Ski Club’s repping service. The course features sessions on performance skiing both on and off-piste, how to co-ordinate and manage a group across the whole mountain, avalanche safety and, of course, the skills behind being a Rep.
The intensive two-week course is an early season staple, and saw participants ski deep powder and through high winds to complete the course. They also attended the various resort parties the Club hosted in the resort during this time, a great opportunity to meet their fellow Members – some of whom are also Reps!
You will find many of the course participants repping across the Ski Club’s slate of resorts and Freshtracks holidays this season. For a full exposé on the Ski Club’s Reps Course, check out Henry John’s report on page 82. ❚
NEWS
A racing celebration in W1C
3Tre and Madonna di Campiglio celebrate history and the future with the Kandahar Ski Club in London
The Italian Alpine Skiing Classic honoured the 'Original Ski Club' in its centenary year at London's Oriental Club, ahead of the 8 January 2025 World Cup Night Slalom in Madonna di Campiglio.
Two Kandahar racers were among the leading contenders for a podium place in the 2025 event: Switzerland’s Daniel Yule was pursuing his fourth win in Trentino, while Britain’s finest and 2023 Pery Medal winner Dave Ryding was looking to improve last year’s third place in a quest to become the first British winner in Madonna. (Unfortunately, neither racer managed to secure a podium place on the night, finishing 7th and 14th respectively.)
The special event in London had a full house, with representatives from the Ski Club, GB Snowsports, plus media and stakeholders showing up at the exclusive Oriental Club venue. Slalom specialist and Kandahar member Billy Major of the GB Ski Team was also a special guest, introduced by William Lunn, member of the Kandahar Ski Club board and the great-grandson of original founder, Arnold Lunn, and was interviewed by Vicky Gosling of GB Snowsport.
3Tre President Lorenzo Conci was emotional after an intense and unique event in London. “You could really feel the passion and the magic in the house. We are grateful to all those old and new friends, starting with Kandahar Ski Club, Oriental Club and GB Snowsport, who helped us to bring our history and reality to here, and even more importantly, created the opportunity to discover so many connections between 3Tre and Kandahar, Madonna di Campiglio and Great Britain.” ❚
Enjoy on a pair of skis
There’s no better place to sense the joy of living than Carinthia
A skiing holiday in Austria’s southernmost state means active enjoyment and pure joie de vivre; it means broad pistes with guaranteed snow on the one hand, with snow parks and breathtaking freeride areas on the other. There couldn’t be a better backdrop: a diverse mountain landscape with lovely views interspersed with frozen lakes and a mild winter climate with an exceptional number of sunny days. These are ideal conditions for moments of winter joy off the pistes as well. Carinthia is located in the tri-border area of Austria, Italy and Slovenia, which means that the southern joy of living and the culinary influence of the Alps-Adriatic region are brought to life.
ski
It doesn’t matter if you’re a beginner, experienced skier or are returning to the sport, anyone who wants to go skiing in Carinthia will get their money’s worth. The roughly 30 skiing areas in Carinthia and East Tyrol with more than 800 kilometres of well-prepared pistes with snow guarantee provide a variety of options. Depending on the skills and requirements of visitors, there are alpine pistes amidst the mighty three-thousanders, broad, comfortable slopes for families, and mogul slopes and half pipes to ensure unforgettable experiences in the snow. Also, not to forget are the pristine slopes for fans of deep powder snow. There’s no shortage of snow in Carinthia - if there is too little snowfall, state-of-the-art snow machines will deliver guaranteed snow from November through and into spring. The Mölltaler glacier year-round ski area is also open for more than 300 days per year in any case.
The cuisine enjoys a particularly high status: Carinthian Alps-Adriatic cuisine blends fresh ingredients from the region, ancient cooking traditions and new interpretations into a delicious whole. As is proper for truly authentic cuisine, the interesting spectrum of Alps-Adriatic cuisine illustrates both the various regions and the course of the seasons. You should definitely try Carinthian Käsnudel [cheese dumplings], Reindling cake, the Carinthian laxn [brown trout], the Gailtaler Speck and the Zirbenschnaps [schnapps made from cones of the Swiss pine]. In addition, in some selected chalets there await samples of Carinthian winter cuisine with Ritschert (a stew of barley, beans and cured meat) or specialities made of Glockner lamb and Nockalm beef.
MIKAELA SILENCED HER DOUBTERS BY RETURNING TO RACING AND DELIVERING IN ABUNDANCE ON THE WORLD CUP SCENE
Our President answers Club staff and Members’ questions on all things ski related…
ASK CHEMMY
“ IN THE LAST ISSUE OF SKI YOU TALKED ABOUT THE BARRIERS WOMEN FACE GETTING INTO SNOWSPORTS. ON THE BACK OF THIS, I WANTED TO ASK WHAT YOU THINK OF THE GREATEST FEMALE SPORTSWOMEN OF ALL TIME: MIKAELA SHIFFRIN? ”
HANNAH SYKES, FRESHTRACKS OPERATIONS MANAGER
Mikaela is an absolute inspiration, to not just women but to skiers and athletes all over the world. Before her unfortunate crash in Killington, Vermont, at the start of this season, Mikaela was on course to hit the biggest, most historic milestone of our sport - winning 100 World Cup races. As we went to press, Mikaela was planning a return to snow and we know this amazing achievement is right within her grasp.
The face of skiing, the 29-year-old is redefining what is possible. But it’s not just her records that ought to be commended, it is the girl-next-door, humble, caring and sometimes quirky personality that she carries – void of the big ego you anticipate – that will inspire the next generation. She is as real as you get. In a world those in the celebrity limelight are often zapped of personalities and told to fit a mould, Mikaela is unique in her absolute ‘normal-ness’. I mean, her skiing is anything but normal – she has a consistency that is unrivalled, a touch on the skis that is unteachable and helps her win, from the tightest of slalom courses to the huge 70m-plus distances of downhill. Her versatility speaks for itself.
Once a child prodigy, the Vail-born ski phenom has withstood all the expectation and delivered countless times. Pressure seems to simply wash over her as she glides down the mountain. Her precision is her mastery. This is far from the first record she has broken, too. She was the youngest
Olympic slalom champion at 18 years old. She dethroned the incredible Lindsey Vonn to become the most winningest woman’s alpine skier ever, and then beat the long-standing record of the legendary Swede Ingemar Stenmark, who set the record of 86 World Cup victories more than three decades ago.
Mikaela has had to fight and to fail to get where she is, which further humanises her and makes her so loved. After Jeff Shiffrin, her father, passed away suddenly in 2020 she struggled both emotionally and mentally. The most viral image of the Beijing Winter Olympics in 2022 was Mikaela distraught and in shock at the side of the piste on a rare occasion when she did not finish. She was expected to win multiple medals and left China with none. Her brutal vulnerability that she shared during interviews in the aftermath endeared her to millions more. However, Mikaela silenced her doubters by returning to racing and delivering in abundance on the World Cup scene the following season with multiple wins. She is an absolute trailblazer, and someone who, when my sons are old enough, I will use an example of how they should be humble in victory and can stay inspired when they struggling. Because in my world, there is no one quite like the force and finesse of Mikaela Shiffrin. And somehow she still finds the time to try, after ever chat we have, to teach me her famous shuffle dance move! ❚
Photo: GEPA
pictures
– 112 km of slopes – 25 modern mountain li s – 100 % snow guarantee from mid November until April
From the archives
A 1911 New Year’s Trip
Lt. James Fraser of the Royal Navy is, like so many of us this time of year, off on a ski holiday. But unlike all of us, Lt. Fraser’s ski trip is taking place in December 1911
As we thumb through itineraries before we head off on our ski holiday, and stare puzzlingly at our bar bills while there, here in 2025, so too did Lt. Fraser over a century ago. Looking back over the history of skiing, it is evident just how much the sport has evolved and changed in the 121year history of the Club – but so, too, the ways in which it hasn’t. Lt. Fraser’s papers relating to his trip to Morgins, Switzerland - unearthed from the De Montfort University SCGB archives this month - are a perfect example of this.
Let’s start with Lt. Fraser’s itinerary, beautifully presented in a leather portfolio. Lt. Fraser has booked an eight-day stay at the Grand Hotel Victoria in Morgins from 28 December 2011. His method of travel is detailed on a later page: a train from London to the Alps, something that many of us do to this day. Fraser and his travel companion take their dinner on-board their train as it sits in the platform at Gare de Lyon, after it has travelled around the Petite Ceinture from Gare de Nord, the now-disused 'central belt' railway that rings central Paris. From there, it is a restful night’s sleep, as the train makes its way across France and Switzerland. Also included in Lt. Fraser's itinerary, provided by the Alpine Sports travel company founded and run by Henry Lunn, is a recommended packing and reading list. The former is pretty par for the course, with the Ski Club today keeping a recommended packing list available on its website; however, the Club no longer recommends three different forms of suit (morning, dress and shooting), puttees, or 'blue serge knickerbockers' – an indication of how far ski dress has come in 114 years. At the time that Lt. Fraser was preparing for his trip, there were a variety of bindings possible for skiing use, in much the same way as you have alpine, touring and telemark as the major styles used today. Generally, the difference between those mentioned in Lt. Fraser's packing list is the method of attaching the foot to the ski, including toe pieces – leather loops or metal kick-in toe pieces – and an attachment for the heel, choosing between a leather strap or nothing at all. The suggested reading list, however, is a wonderful snapshot into the early days of skiing. With an extraordinarily low uptake of skiing as a sport or recreational activity in the early 20th century, a suggested reading list is perhaps not as surprising as it seems. Ski-ing For Beginners by W. Rickmer would have gone down very handily, no doubt, as would have English Figure Skating, what with skating being one of the most popular accompanying sports to skiing in its early days. Finally, we get a glance into Lt. Fraser’s hotel bill. Much of it is in French cursive, so it is a little difficult to make out in parts. There doesn’t appear to be much of interest or scandal that might leave Lt. Fraser scratching his perhaps slightly delicate head as he tries to remember what happened on the last night of the trip (we're not speaking from experience at all…); in fact quite the opposite, as it appears that Lt. and Mrs. Fraser enjoy a glass of warm milk every evening before bed – one of the few discernible items listed on the tab!
Lt. Fraser and his wife’s trip to Morgins over the winter of 1911/12 would have been an adventure of a lifetime, and despite the 114 year gap, it was a ski experience in so many ways similar to yours and mine today; packing lists, finding the right gear, and filling our days with activities on- and off snow, all topped off with a nightcap to be rested and ready for the next day.
* The Club’s extensive archives and library are held at De Montfort University’s Kimberlin Library. They are free to access and open to the public. The catalogue and contact details can be viewed at library.dmu.ac.uk/ specialcollections.
SNOWMAIL YOUR LETTERS
Thanks so much for your feedback. Here at SKI // The Ski Club Magazine we strive to achieve a blend of informative, attainable and aspirational editorial content, but it’s tricky to strike the perfect balance for every Member. We hope that you’ll find some valuable information on how to get set for the season in our How To... column by Warren Smith. You might also enjoy Bruce Goodlad’s series where our Mountain Guide shares his know-how (this issue, he reveals the basic kit you'll need to stay safe while glacier skiing).
If there is something in particular you would like us to cover in the magazine, or you simply wish to share your views on a snowy topic, then please get in touch.
Email: snowmail@skiclub.co.uk
Mail: SCGB, 3.25 Canterbury Court, Kennington Park, 1-3 Brixton Road, London SW9 6DE
STAR LETTER
Dear Nicola, I recognised the feeling that you described so well (SKI 226) – if you are out of your comfort zone, a moderate slope feels like a precipice on telemark skis when you are new to them.
Learning to telemark reminds us of how difficult and unnatural skiing feels at first and you can sympathise better with beginner alpine skiers, understanding how fast things seem to be happening for them. It’s quite humbling to feel apprehension going down an easy pitch.
However, please have another go, there’s something very satisfying about a well-executed telemark turn and you’ll have to work for it.
I have long thought that there’s a real advantage in alpine skiers having a go, because it improves your skiing, even in the alpine style as, it forces the skier to be better centred, like blades do.
It might have been better if you had become more confident skiing in the alpine style before attempting a telemark turn of any sort.
I’m getting too old to ski everywhere in the telemark style now, so I conserve energy by skiing alpine until there’s a particularly attractive piece of snow.
Kind regards, Rob Drury
Rob, I think you are absolutely right – telemarking can only improve one's alpine skiing, and I hear what you are saying about the satisfaction element, too. It reminds me of something a friend, who discovered telemarking a few years ago, said to me: “…this slightly improbable, smooth and sinuous way of turning a ski through snow really does work, and it feels delicious.” Delicious! I will indeed have another go, and I will be sure to focus on gaining confidence in the alpine style before attempting tricker telemark turns. Thanks for the advice and have a great winter!
NICOLA ISEARD EDITOR
TALK TO US & WIN!
Winter is now upon us - so we’d love to hear your views on all things snowy. Pen our Star Letter and you’ll win a Halti Down Jacket. Write to snowmail@skiclub.co.uk
SPORTY,
IN TIGNES, EXPERIENCE THE MOUNTAINS IN A DIFFERENT WAY UNTIL 4 MAY 2025.
Discover the 300km of linked pistes, international events and activities for all the family.
