Everything you need to know to set up an aquarium for goldfish

Everything you need to know to set up an aquarium

We’ve been crafting captivating aquariums for over 45 years for goldfish

Each aquarium is a microcosm within glass walls, governed by its own strict laws. It’s a realm akin to the wonderland Alice stumbled into, yet unlike a mere fairy tale, it’s one you can bring into your very home. With just a grasp of your inhabitants’ needs, caring for them becomes as simple as tending to a beloved dog or cat.

We offer all the essential insights to help you establish your inaugural aquarium, whether it’s for bettas, goldfish, or guppies. We’re confident this hobby will enchant you, beckoning you into its depths. For further guidance, delve into our blog at tropicaledu.pl. With the help of QR codes you will quickly get to the recommended materials.

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How to set up an aquarium?

The very process of setting up an aquarium is not difficult. Just buy a tank, a suitable filter, heater and lighting. Choose the substrate and aquatic plants. Flood the tank with water and turn on the equipment.

Remember, however, that an aquarium filled with fresh tap water and a new substrate and a filter with clean filter cartridges is not a suitable place for fish to live. In order for it to become a safe home, it must first be colonized by bacteria and other microorganisms. The period during which the aquarium is colonized by bacteria is called maturation.

Aquarium maturation is a process that occurs in any new tank, and its proper handling at this stage can help to avoid many serious problems.

What do you need to know about nitrification?

Nitrification plays a major role in the maturation of the tank. This is a biochemical process carried out by bacteria that enables fish and plants to live in home aquariums.

Nitrifying bacteria are responsible for the transformation of nitrogenous compounds in the aquarium. The source of these compounds is organic matter (feces of fish, crustaceans, snails, food scraps, parts of aquatic plants). Its decomposition by bacteria and other microorganisms produces ammonium ions (NH4+) among other things.

CAUTION! As the pH of the water increases (> 7 pH), ammonium ions turn into ammonia (NH3 ), which is toxic to fish.

dead leaves

THE MOST TOXIC

f ish waste excess food nitrites nitrates plants

amonium ions

water changes ammonia

MORE TOXIC

Safe concentrations

NH3 < 0.2 mg/l

NO2 - < 0.3 mg/l

NO3 - < 30 mg/l

LESS TOXIC

At this point, nitrifying bacteria get to work, oxidizing ammonium nitrogen (NH4+/NH 3) to nitrite (NO 2 - ), which in turn is oxidized to nitrate (NO3 - ). Remember that nitrites (NO 2 - ), like ammonia, are highly toxic to fish. Only nitrates (NO3 - ) are relatively safe, and their excess can be removed from the aquarium by regular water changes. To maximize the capacity of nitrifying bacteria, biological filters are used to purify water. These can be both internal filters (in smaller aquariums) and bucket filters. The filter media used in them (sponges and/or ceramics) provide a substrate on which bacteria settle. Remember that the biological filter should be cleaned very rarely, so as not to disturb the beneficial bacteria.

When can you let fish into a new aquarium?

Nitrifying bacteria develop slowly in the aquarium. Therefore, if you let the fish in during the first weeks of the aquarium’s operation, you will notice high concentrations of ammonium/ammonia ions (NH4+/NH3) and nitrite (NO 2 - ). As you already know, they are toxic to fish. As a result, your new fish will be in great danger. A maturing aquarium should never have a full scheduled fish stocking, as fish are the main source of nitrogen compounds. The more fish in an aquarium, the more ingredients that produce toxic compounds. In a mature tank aquarium tests will only show the presence of nitrates.

Learn more:

Water change

Biological filtration

How to carry out aquarium maturation?

1 Place the substrate, decorations and technical equipment in the aquarium. You can plant the plants before filling the aquarium with water. However, remember to keep them moist so they don’t dry out. You can also plant them after partially filling the aquarium with water.

2 Pour the water and start the technical equipment (filter, heater, lighting).

3 Use Tropical Supreme water conditioner. It will remove chlorine and bind heavy metals. In addition, it will make the fresh water more friendly to future aquarium inhabitants, including the bacteria you will introduce in the next step.

4 After a few minutes, pour Tropical Bacto-Active and Tropical Nitri-Active with bacteria into the aquarium. They complement each other. One accelerates the decomposition of organic matter and colonization of the aquarium by nitrifying bacteria, while the other introduces nitrifying bacteria. Ensure good oxygenation of the water by using a diffuser in the filter or an additional aerator.

5 Remember that there is no organic matter in the new aquarium. You have to introduce it into the tank. You can use a bit of fish food for this. You can also introduce ornamental snails in. Aquatic plants are also a good source of organic matter. Before they acclimate to the aquarium, they usually lose their leaves. There will always be something that dies, detaches, and eventually, if you don’t remove these remains, it will decay.

6 Buy aquarium tests. At this stage, Tropical 6 in 1 strip test will be sufficient. When the test ceases to show the presence of nitrite (NO 2 - ), and at the same time nitrate (NO3 - ) appears, it will mean that full nitrification of nitrogenous compounds in the aquarium is taking place.

7 This is the moment when you can let the fish into the tank. If you let all of them in, be sure to monitor the concentration of nitrogen compounds and do regular water changes (20-30%). Treat the water after each change and add products with bacteria. Initially, do not feed the fish too much. The system may not be ready for such a load of feces and urea. Control water parameters with Tropical 6 in1 Test strip test or drop tests: Tropical NO 2 - Test, Tropical NO 3 - Test. Learn more: Maturation of the aquarium

a few minutes

Water treatment products

SUPREME

Water conditioner with aloe

superefficient water treatment product with aloe extract for quick conditioning raw tap water intended for aquarium use recommended when changing water and starting new tanks quickly neutralizes toxic chlorine, which is dangerous for aquarium fish, and heavy metal salts protects fish from the aggressive effects of raw tap water thanks to aloe extract, it has an anti-stress effect, soothes abrasions and accelerates the regeneration of damaged epidermis works immediately, hence proves useful when it is necessary to quickly change large volumes of water

TREATMENT: 1 ml (approx. 25 drops) / 50 l of raw tap water. Always use in a newly started tank and after each partial or complete water change.

INSTRUCTIONS: Apply other products only after a few minutes.

TROPICAL BACTO-ACTIVE

Water treatment product with bacteria for freshwater aquarium. It removes organic waste and accelerates aquarium maturation

it contains selected live cultures of biologically active bacteria that break down organic matter accumulated in the substrate and filters, initiating nitrogen cycle the ammonium ions released in this process accelerate the maturation of the aquarium, stimulating the development of nitrifying bacteria recommended for new tanks with treated water, mature aquaria after changing water, filters or following medical treatment of the fish if used regularly, it accelerates the decomposition of organic matter, removes water turbidity and unpleasant odors, and together with Tropical Nitri-Active, maintains the biological balance in the aquarium

TREATMENT: treat raw tap water with Supreme and one of the following products: Blacklarin or Shrimp Guard. Immature tanks – 5 ml / 75 l of water once a week, after 3 weeks dose as in mature tanks. Mature tanks – 5 ml / 45 l of water once a month.

TROPICAL NITRI-ACTIVE

Nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria for aquarium

a product with selected strains of nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria it accelerates the maturation and stabilization of the aquarium by quickly activating the nitrogen cycle

the unique combination of aerobic bacteria and facultative anaerobes actively supports the functioning of the aquarium under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions by settling the filters and the substrate the product is intended for use in young and mature tanks if used regularly, it ensures biological balance and supports self-cleaning processes in an aquarium

TREATMENT: treat raw tap water with Supreme and one of the following products: Blacklarin or Shrimp Guard. Setting up a new aquarium and following a medical treatment: 20 ml / 100 l of water once a week for 3 weeks, mature tanks: 10 ml / 100 l of water once a week. The dosage may be increased as needed. Turn off the UV lamp during use. It can be used together with Tropical Bacto-Active.

Care products for plants

AQUAFLORIN POTASSIUM

Potassium and trace elements for aquarium plants

a mineral fertilizer with potassium for aquatic plants indispensable when shortage of potassium occurs in a tank and during first few months of a new tank, when it is not recommended to use other macronutrients does not contain nitrogen and phosphorus, therefore can be used in tanks with dense population of fish, where these two elements are released from fish’s feces and leftovers

carefully selected composition of this agent lowers the risk of algae infestation and provides the plants with indispensable nutrients, enhancing their growth and appearance

COMPOSITION: 10 ml of product contains: potassium (K) 130 mg, cobalt (Co) 0.2 mg, copper (Cu) 0.2 mg, iron (Fe) 12.0 mg, manganese (Mn) 0.4 mg, molybdenum (Mo) 0.5 mg, zinc (Zn) 0.3 mg.

TREATMENT: 10 ml / 100 l of water, each time the water is changed. The dose may be increased and decreased while observing the growth of plants in the tank. May be used simultaneously with Kobaltosan, Aqua Plant and Ferro-Aktiv fertilizers.

Fertilizer safe for shrimps. Caution is advised with species and varieties of shrimps known for their high sensitivity.

FERRO-AKTIV Chelated iron for plants

a mineral fertilizer with iron for systematic conditioning of aquatic plants in common and planted tanks contains biologically absorbable iron in the form of a chelate when used regularly, it prevents chlorosis – plants’ disease manifested by young leaves turning pale and yellow facilitates the photosynthesis and the production of chlorophyll in the tissues ensures bright and intense green coloration of aquatic plants and their lush growth

COMPOSITION: 10 ml of product contains: iron (Fe) 16 mg.

TREATMENT: 10 ml / 100 l of water, each time when the water is changed. The dose may be increased and decreased while observing the growth of plants in the tank. May be used simultaneously with Kobaltosan, Aqua Plant and Aquaflorin Potassium fertilizers.

Fertilizer safe for shrimps. Caution is advised with species and varieties of shrimps known for their high sensitivity.

MULTIMINERAL

Trace elements for fish and aquarium plants

a fertilizer with trace elements to replenish aquarium water with indispensable elements such as: iron, zinc, copper, boron, manganese, cobalt and molybdenum recommended for all types of aquaria, particularly for planted tanks and breeding tanks (both with spawning pairs and the fry), during quarantine and convalescence periods, after filtration with activated carbon, to enrich distilled water and after reversed osmosis (RO)

COMPOSITION: 10 ml of product contains: boron (B) 1.2 mg, cobalt (Co) 0.2 mg, copper (Cu) 0.5 mg, iron (Fe) 8.0 mg, manganese (Mn) 0.3 mg, molybdenum (Mo) 0.2 mg, zinc (Zn) 0.2 mg.

TREATMENT: 10 ml / 100 l of water, each time the water is changed. May be used simultaneously with Kobaltosan, Ferro-Aktiv and Aqua Plant fertilizers.

Fertilizer safe for shrimps. Caution is advised with species and varieties of shrimps known for their high sensitivity.

Aquarium tests

TEST 6 IN 1

strip test designed to measure nitrate, nitrite, total and carbonate hardness, pH and total chlorine concentration in fresh water safe, non-toxic and simple to use – simply dip the strip in the sample of water to be tested and after a moment read the results for six chemical parameters in case of emergency quick information about chemical parameters allows for immediate action to be taken in order to improve fish’s living conditions

TEST pH 6.0-7.8

test is intended for measuring the pH level of fresh water within the range 6.0-7.8 pH at intervals of 0.2 pH

high precision allows for obtaining very accurate results, which is particularly important for breeders of delicate species of fish, whose spawning depends upon exact levels of pH

Test pH 6.0-7.8 allows for close control of pH while adjusting its level in tanks populated with live organisms

TEST GH/KH

test designed to measure by titration the general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) of water in aquariums and ponds convenient and extremely easy to use you just add the solution of a proper agent into the water drop by drop until the color of the sample changes one drop corresponds to one German degree (°n)

TEST NO3 -

test is intended for measuring the concentration of nitrate (NO 3 - ) within the range 0 – 100 mg/l in fresh and salt water convenient and extremely easy to use the reagents are added to the water and after a short time cause discoloration of the sample

the nitrate concentration is obtained by comparing the colour of the sample with the enclosed colour scale

TEST NO2 -

test is intended for measuring the concentration of nitrite (NO 2 - ) within the range 0-3.3 mg/l in fresh and salt water convenient and extremely easy to use the reagents are simply added to the water and after a short time cause discoloration of the sample

the result is obtained by comparing the colour of the sample with the enclosed colour scale in the aquarium, nitrite is produced during the bacterial breakdown of fish wastes, uneaten food, and other organic substances because nitrite is highly toxic to fish, its concentration in the aquarium should be as close to zero as possible

about 20 cm

external filter should be larger than recommended for the tank size, additional internal filter

single-species aquarium recommended

there is a number of different breeds of goldfish the history of goldfish dates back nearly 2,000 years the longest-lived goldfish was 43 years old

stones, roots with no sharp edges

The history of the goldfish is almost 2,000 years old. It began in ancient China, where goldfish (Carassius auratus) were caught and transferred to backyard ponds to ensure a constant supply of fresh fish. Among the silver-gray individuals, there were occasionally fish with orange coloration. It is believed that these fish gave rise to the goldfish breeding that continues to this day. Hundreds of years of painstaking and patient breeding work have led to the creation of individuals with bizarre shapes and diverse coloration. Today there are about 300 varieties of these unusual fish!

Varieties

In terms of body shape, two groups of goldfish can be distinguished. The first includes fish with an elongated body and a single tail fin. It is the oldest variety bred in China. While its body shape corresponds to wild carp, the distinguisher is the coloration. Goldfish can be yellow, orange, red, gold or red and white. Calico forms are called schubunkin – their bodies are covered with a multitude of red, yellow, orange and black spots. This group of fish is kept primarily in garden ponds.

The second group consists of fish with shortened thorax and double fins – caudal and anal. They include many breeds: veil, fantail, ryukin, oranda, oranda red cap, telescope, demekin, pearlfish, varieties lacking a dorsal fin – ranchu, lion head, bubble eye goldfish, celestial eye goldfish, nankin. Goldfish in pet stores meet the breed criteria only to a small extent. If you want to buy a pedigree fish, look for goldfish importers, specialized outlets or buy directly from breeders.

How to set up an aquarium for goldfish?

The size of the aquarium and its equipment

The minimum aquarium capacity for two goldfish is 120 liters and with 50 liters for each additional fish. Goldfish feel better in a group, in which they are more active and „cheerful”. It is best to keep them in a 240-liter tank. Not only because you can nurture up to 5 fish in it, but also because it will be easier for you to maintain good water parameters in the tank. Goldfish are very dirty fish. They have a rapid metabolism and they are constantly digging up the substrate, which makes the organic matter accumulated in the substrate go into the water

Goldfish ryukin

Goldfish oranda

column. For this reason, their aquarium should be equipped with a large bucket filter, intended for a larger tank. It will ensure more filter bed, on which nitrifying bacteria will settle. It’s also a good idea to use a second internal filter, which will work as a mechanical filer and backup, in case the first one fails. However, avoid strong mixing of water in the aquarium, which would tire the fish. Set the filter outlets so that the water movement is relatively small. Install an aerator as well.

Goldfish are cold-water fish. It might seem you could give up a heater in the aquarium. In practice, however, it depends on the ambient temperature and the origin of the fish. If it’s cold at your place, or you buy fish from, say, Thailand, where they live in warm water (27-28°C), get a heater with a thermostat. The temperature in the aquarium with goldfish should be about 20-25°C . When buying pedigree fish, it is best to ask the seller about their requirements.

Use roots and stones as decorations. However, definitely avoid sharp elements which could injure fish, especially varieties such as lionhead or telescope. It’s also a good idea to stick the background, preferably black or blue, to the back wall of the aquarium. It will make the tank more appealing.

Lighting does not have to be strong and the plant species suggested below do not have high light requirements. You can use both a cover with a light bar or a hanging or standing lamp over an open tank. However, it is worth remembering that fish also need light because it enhances their coloration.

The substrate

Gravel with a fine or medium granularity and smooth edges will work well as a substrate. Remember that fish dig through the substrate, so sharp gravel could injure them, and one with too much granularity could lead to choking.

Plants

Goldfish are definitely not the fish for which you will create a typical planted aquarium. First, as you already know, goldfish dig into the substrate, so as a result, the plants get uprooted. Secondly, goldfish enthusiastically diversify their diet with soft-leaf plants. But you don’t have to give up plants. You can choose epiphytic species that are not planted in the substrate, such as microsorum, anubias and bolbitis. This way you will avoid digging problems. In addition, their leaves are tough, so there is a chance that fish will not be interested in them. You can also try planting cryptocorynes or vallis, but protect them from being dug out by covering them with pebbles or planting them in pots. Support plant growth with regular use of Tropical Aquaflorin Potassium and Tropical Ferro-Aktiv

Water parameters for goldfish

Goldfish are pretty flexible when it comes to chemical parameters of water. However, for their well-being and nice appearance, it is best to provide them with water with a pH of 7.0-7.5 and hardness of 6-15°n. Too hard water

can contribute to fin damage, especially in delicate breeds. You can check the basic chemical parameters with the Tropical 6 in 1 Test . You can also use drop tests: Tropical NO2 - Test, Tropical NO3 - Test, Tropical GH/KH Test and Tropical pH 6.0-7.8 Test

Aquarium care

The number of fish in a tank

Goldfish are very social. Therefore, if you can have a larger aquarium, opt for at least two individuals.

Companionship for goldfish

Due to their specific requirements and the risk of other fish biting their long fins, we recommend keeping them in single-species aquariums

In a mature aquarium, 30-40% of the water in the tank should be changed every week. The smaller the aquarium, the more likely that water parameters will deteriorate faster. Every tank is different, so you need to work out the frequency of water changes on your own. The determinant can be the concentration of nitrates in the water, which should not exceed 40 mg/l. Treat water for water changes with Tropical Supreme, and then add Tropical Bacto-Active and Tropical Nitri-Active with bacteria.

Foods for goldfish

Goldfish are omnivorous. Their diet should be varied and rich in roughage: fiber and chitin. It is important to avoid overfeeding. You can base their daily diet on multi-ingredient products dedicated to goldfish. The staple foods presented below provide goldfish with all the necessary nutrients. They enhance coloration and ensure proper intestinal peristalsis. Remember to enrich their diet with high-algae and immunity-supporting foods.

Learn more:

Color-enhancing foods for fish and how they work

How carotenoids affect fish coloration

Goldfish Color

basic flake food for all varieties of goldfish

high fibre content, derived from grass mixture among other sources, guarantees that the long digestive tract of this group of fish works properly and L-carnitine improves fat metabolism

wheat germs are the source of unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA) as well as vitamins and trace elements

high content of carotenoids, including beta-carotene and astaxanthin, intensifies coloration

Goldfish Colour Pellet

basic floating pellets for all kinds of goldfish

natural immune stimulator – beta-glucan – and stabilised vitamin C enhance immunity

high content of carotenoids, including beta-carotene and astaxanthin, intensifies coloration

Super Goldfish Mini Sticks

sinking sticks for everyday feeding of goldfish with characteristic “lion heads” such as lionhead, oranda, ranchu

high content of protein and all essential amino acids encourage the growth of a characteristic “lion head”

carefully balanced formula encourages the development of a splendid veiltail and guarantees the best shape of fish’s body in conformity with international standards

Super Spirulina Forte Granulat

sinking granules with high (36%) content of spirulina improves fish’s immunity and regulates digestion

a source of unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA), easily assimilable protein, vitamins and trace elements, which ensure excellent condition of your fish

natural carotenoids ensure beautiful intense coloration

3-Algae Granulat

sinking granules with algae and aloe vera contains three algae: chlorella (Chlorella vulgaris), Ascophyllum nodosum and Laminaria digitata, the last two referred to as kelp algae

unsaturated fatty acids, proteins and vitamins from chlorella, together with macronutrients and trace elements from kelp algae (including iodine) ensure excellent condition, intensive growth and vitality in fish high-dose of chlorophyll from chlorella inhibits the development of unwanted bacteria in alimentary tract, preventing infections

Tropical D-Allio Plus Granulat

vitality-enhancing food with garlic for all aquarium fish garlic enhances immunity and regulates digestion high nutritional value, optimally balanced vitamins and trace elements, together with the properties of garlic, make Tropical D-Allio Plus an indispensable food for fish adapting to new conditions or undergoing medical treatment

Pro Defence size M

food in the form of slowly sinking granules with probiotic probiotic added to the food contains viable Bacillus subtilis endospores, which stabilize gut microflora, facilitating utilization of nutrients, which in turn reduces contamination of water with fish’s feces the synergic effect of probiotic, beta-glucan, vitamins and carotenoids significantly improves fish’s overall condition and their immune system alleviates stress caused by transportation, spawning, intra-species aggression, rivalry etc.

Learn more:

Algae in fish nutrition

The riches of nature in Tropical foods

To enjoy healthy and active fish presenting splendid coloration one main condition must be met – a diversified diet based on high-quality foods. For the production of our foods we use more than 100 various raw materials. Each product contains minimum 20 ingredients which ensure food’s unique properties. Such a great number of raw materials used for fish food production corresponds with a wide variety of foods which fish have at their disposal in their natural environment. This way we can be sure that we provide fish with all essential nutrients. In addition, we have ensured optimal phosphorus levels in our foods. This covers the fish’s need for this element but at the same time reduces the amount of phosphorus excreted with the feces, which in effect reduces the influence of the food on algal blooms in the aquarium.

Selected natural ingredients in Tropical foods:

Red pepper is the source of carotenoids which enhance coloration in fish, improve their condition, maturation, reproduction and increase the resistance to diseases.

Algae used in Tropical foods are the source of high quality protein, macronutrients and trace elements, carotenoids and natural immune stimulators. They facilitate digestion, prevent inflammatory disorders of alimentary tract, enhance coloration and improve immunity.

Calanus (Calanus finmarchicus) is a plankton crustacean derived from North Atlantic waters. It is the source of astaxanthin, protein, rich in essential amino acids, and unsaturated fatty acids, including Omega-3.

Squid are high in protein but low in fats. They provide polyunsaturated fatty acids, including EPA and DHA. They encourage fish to spawn.

Insect larvae are a source of very good quality protein, fat, including unsaturated fatty acids Omega-3, Omega-6 and Omega-9, and chitin, which is beneficial to the digestive tract of fish.

Krill, due to its high palatability, make the food very tasty and eagerly eaten by fish. Moreover, ingredients contained in krill encourage fish to spawn and intensify fish’s coloration.

Oak meal is one of the ingredients of Pleco’s Tablets for Loricariidae fish. For some species within this family wood is a crucial dietary component.

Nettle has bacteriostatic and detoxicating effect; if added to foods, it facilitates digestion.

Spinach is a rich source of easily assimilable macronutrients, trace elements and vitamins.

Green pea is the source of valuable protein, easily assimilable by the fish, and the fibre, which regulates digestion.

Egg yolks are rich in fats, easily assimilable lecithin and the number of vitamins and trace elements. They contain lutein – one of carotenoids, which intensifies coloration in fish. Food with egg yolk – due to high energy value – recommended mainly for adolescent fry and spawning pairs.

Improved immunity in fish

A number of ingredients, used in Tropical foods, enhance fish’s immunity. It is recommended to introduce at least one food containing immunity booster.

Aloe – aloe extract added to food improves immunity and facilitates digestion.

Beta-glucan is a natural immune stimulator derived from the yeasts’ walls. It activates white blood cells, increasing their potential for absorbing and destroying microbes which invade fish’s bodies.

Chlorella vulgaris is microalga with a high content of protein (45-57%) rich in essential amino acids and carotenoids (0.4%). It contains beta-glucan and particularly high content of chlorophyll (2%), which facilitates digestion, reduces the number of decay bacteria in the gastrointestinal tract, acts as an antioxidant and helps to detoxicate.

Garlic (Allium sativum) contains sulphur compounds which have strong bactericidal properties. Helps to fight parasites in the alimentary tract.

Kelp algae is a mixture of brown algae, out of which Tropical uses two – Ascophyllum nodosum and Laminaria digitata. Kelp algae are the rich source of micronutrients and trace elements, including organic iodine. They contain high percentage of unsaturated fatty acids and dietary fibre, which regulates digestion and protects the alimentary tract against development of unwanted bacterial flora. Some compounds found in Kelp algae have bactericidal and antiviral properties.

Carotenoids – natural pigments present in higher plants, algae and crustaceans. Apart from coloration enhancement, carotenoids improve fish’s overall condition and resistance to diseases. Tropical foods contain concentrated astaxanthin and beta-carotene derived from natural sources and raw materials rich in carotenoids: krill, spirulina, chlorella and red pepper.

Insect larvae – contain chitin, which has prebiotic properties, positively influencing the growth of lactic acid bacteria in the intestines of fish. In addition, insects contain extremely interesting substances that inhibit the growth of pathogens – antimicrobial proteins (AMP – antimicrobial peptides).

Unsaturated fatty acids (UFA), including Omega-3 and Omega-6 improve fish’s resistance to diseases, help to assimilate vitamins A, D, E and K, improve skin’s function as a protective barrier.

Probiotic – viable Bacillus subtilis endospores, which stabilize gut microflora, facilitating utilization of nutrients, improving immunity and overall health and condition.

Spirulina (Arthrospira platensis) is microalga known for its high content of protein (60-65%) rich in essential amino acids. It is the source of chlorophyll, carotenoids, unsaturated fatty acids and natural immune stimulators. Thanks to these substances spirulina enhances the immune system.

Learn more: Spirulina

Food with probiotic

How to choose the right fish food?

1. Check dietary requirements of species you wish to keep in available literature.

2. Choose the size and form of the food.

Fish in the wild live in specific parts of the reservoir. Some live near the bottom, some in the middle layers of water and some among the plants. Other species prefer regions under the surface of water. Particular zone can be usually guessed on the basis of the shape of fish’s body and the placement of its mouth. This makes selecting proper form of food much easier.

Thanks to the availability of various forms one can perfectly match proper product to a given species, taking into account food size and the place and way of feeding.

Flakes

Most universal form of food. Suitable for fish living in all parts of the reservoir. Thanks to their delicate structure they float when coming into contact with water and then slowly sink. Floating all over the tank, they allow all species, even less energetic and the ones lower in the hierarchy, to feed. You can crumble them in case you need smaller bites.

Granules

Concentrated dose of food in the form of granules of various sizes: granules (1.4-6.0 mm), mini granules (0.8-1.2 mm) and micro granules (0.5-0.7 mm). They are sinking and slowly sinking foods. Suitable for fish eating in the middle layers of water and at the bottom. Most granules have even surface. Thanks to their closed pores they slowly absorb water, hence do not disintegrate in water, which limits the release of valuable ingredients. Tropical offers also includes the so called “bites” granules, which have uneven surface and soften quicker, hence provide perfect feeding solution for sensitive fish and the ones which are not particularly keen to eat granules.

Chips

Type of granules which resemble flat disk. They sink quickly but do not disintegrate in water. Intended mostly for large species of fish. Served to smaller fish, it is nibbled and bitten piece by piece, which limits the phenomenon of fast swallowing of small granules by particularly voracious fish.

Pellets and sticks

Floating foods for medium and large fish which feed at the surface of water. Pellets in the shape of balls are available in size S (3.5 mm) and M (5-6 mm). Sticks are available in size M (4 mm) and L (6 mm).

Wafers (discs)

This food is dedicated to feeding fish that live near the bottom and crustaceans. Wafers rapidly fall onto the bottom, which helps to place them exactly in bottom feeders’ favourite spots or directly into the hiding place of timid species. Wafers absorb the water slowly, hence maintain their shape in the tank. Their shape and structure allow Loricariidae fish to use their suckermouths and teeth the way they do in the wild and feed by scraping food from various surfaces.

Tablets

Foods in the form of tablets are recommended for feeding bottom feeding fish, crustaceans (sinking tablets, adhesive and plano-convex) and fish that live in the middle layers of water, including the fry (adhesive tablets and plano-convex). Adhesive and plano-convex tablets should be adhered to the glass of the tank. All tablets fall into tiny parts in the water.

Micronised foods

Foods in the form of fine powder intended for feeding the fry. In case of big fry, for instance of live-bearing fish, micronised foods may be used from the moment young fish start to feed.

Natural foods

Dried or freeze-dried invertebrates (Daphnia, Gammarus, artemia, bloodworms, Tubifex, shrimps) rich in chitin and carotenoids. Biologically safe. Perfectly supplement ornamental fish’s diet.

Soft foods

Foods in the form of various soft granules obtained through advanced and innovative production technology. Thanks to their soft texture they are more readily accepted and digested by fish.

PREAPARING

AQUARIUM WATER WITH TROPICAL

Together they work better!

Safe water for your fish, crustaceans and plants is the result of the combined action.

TROPICAL Tadeusz Ogrodnik

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