Journey 2020

EX P LOR E TRØN DEL AG I N TH E H EA R T O F N O RWAY’ S HISTO RY

This magazine is published in Norwegian, English and German.

Combined circulation: 50.000 Editorial work completed in February 2020 Printing: Skipnes Paper: Lumisett Cover photo front: Jarle Hagen Cover photo back: Heidi Renée Fossland - @underapenhimmel Layout and illustrations: UREDD Designkontor Text “Coastal delights” and “Flock life”: Magne Gisvold/UREDD Designkontor Other text: UREDD Designkontor, Teksteriet and advertisers English translation: Gavin Tanguay Oversetting og språkvasking Publisher: Trøndelag Tourist Board Nordre gt. 11, 7011 Trondheim Tel: +47 73 84 24 40 touristinfo@trondelag.com magasin.trondelag.com

We take no liability for subsequent changes or errors.

TRØNDELAG – THE ESSENCE OF NORWAY Trøndelag has played a central role in the development of Norway’s history for more than 1,000 years. The name Trøndelag originates from the Norse words þróndir (people who grow and thrive) and log (district with common laws).

The capital of Trøndelag, Trondheim, has been one of the country’s most important cities ever since it was founded by Olav Tryggvason in 997. It was soon called Nidaros and served as the capital of Norway for around 250 years during the Viking Age. After the death of King Olav II Haraldsson at Stiklestad and his subsequent sainthood, the Nidaros Cathedral was built over his burial site. It soon became Christendom’s most important sanctuary in Northern Europe, and people from all over Europe have made pilgrimages to this national sanctuary for almost 1,000 years.

To this day, people travel to Trondheim. Trøndelag offers visitors the essence of Norway and everything Norwegian: High mountains and vast mountain plateaus.

Deep forests and valleys. Sami reindeer herders who tend to their herds.

The Northern Lights, snow and sparkling conditions for skiing. The elongated Trondheimsfjord with kilometre-long sandy beaches, and polished rocks along the coast. Wild animals such as moose, lynxes, reindeer, bears, wolves, eagles and muskoxen. Modern urban life with a rich cultural and commercial life. As Norway’s leading local food region, Trøndelag offers the country’s best culinary experiences and unique accommodation options.

And always present is the Trønder, a complex being, who is inventive and renowned throughout history for his wanderlust and courage, while also being peaceful, rounded, hospitable and always willing to give of one’s self.

Most people have herd the term “the friendly Trønder”. When you visit Trøndelag, you will be warmly received and, if you wish, challenged to experience something completely new!

WELCOME TO TRØNDELAG!

Foto: Grim Berge

TRØ NDE L AG REGIO NS

T RO ND H E I M 63°N

B E RG EN O S LO

N AM DALEN

H I T R A , F RØYA A N D T H E F O S EN R EG I O N

IN N HERRED

T RO N DH EIM

T H E O R K DA L R EG I O N A N D G AUL DA L

O PPDA L AND R EN N EB U

THE VÆRN ES REG ION

RØ RO S

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CO NTE NTS

COASTAL D E LIG HT S - COASTAL TRØNDELAG

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A nc i ent f i s hi ng vi l l ag es an d ro r b u ( f i s h e r m e n’ s c ot t a g e s ) , n a r ro w s t r a i t s , pol i s hed i s l et s , di vi ng , s no r ke l l i n g a n d t h e w o r l d ’ s b e s t s e af o o d .

Thi s s u ms u p t he c oas t of Trø n d e l a g .

A MILLENNIUM OF TOURISM - HISTORICAL TRØNDELAG

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W hat do w e know abou t h i s t o r i c Trø n d e l a g ? T h e w e l l - k n o w n h i s t o r y of t h e reg i on revol ves arou nd V i k i n g r a i d s , c o nf l i c t s , a h o l y k i n g a n d a l e g e n d a r y c at hedral . Ju s t as i m port a nt a re t h e s t o r i e s a b o u t f re e d o m - l o v i n g a n d c a l m farmers and an em erg i ng d e m o c r a c y.

F LOCK LIF E - CULINARY TRØ ND EL AG

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W hen peopl e mi g rat ed no r t h t h o u s a n d s of ye a r s a g o i n s e a rc h of f o o d , t hey f ou nd fert i l e l and i n t h e c e nt re of N o r w a y. Trø n d e l a g i s n o w re g a r d e d as t he food reg i on of N orw a y – a n d t h e l o c a l m e n u s f e at u re s o m e of t h e fi nes t produ c e i mag i nabl e .

CRACKLING ATMOSPHERE - WINTER IN TRØNDELAG

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Few things describe “winter” better than frozen snow crackling under your feet.

If you visit Trøndelag in winter, you will encounter reindeer, dog sledding, i c e f i s hi ng and w onderf u l s k i t e r r a i n .

G OLD E N L AN DSCA PE - OU TD OOR EX P E RI ENC ES

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From fj ord t o mou nt ai n an d d e e p f o re s t s t o e x p a n s i v e m o u nt a i n p l at e a u s , s al mon bi t i ng and t he w ar mt h f ro m t h e c a m p f i re . T h e Trø n d e l a g l a n d s c a p e i s t he es s enc e of N orw ay.

Blåfjella-Skjækerfjella Nationalpark (Kristian Nesser)

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MausundvĂŚr 6

COASTAL DELIGHTS “Between cliffs and the billowing breakers The Norwegian of old found his home A foundation he laid in these acres His own hands raised his house from the loam.”

Ivar Aasen

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Intelligent life has existed on the outermost naked isle in the archipelago off the coast of Trøndelag ever since the Stone Age. Apart from finds from 11th century farms, we know very little about the people who lived there all those years ago. However, it’s highly likely that the basic way of life at this isolated outpost, exposed to the elements and only a stone’s throw from the edible treasures of the sea, has changed little over the past 10,000 years.

“We cannot live by the sight of the sea,” says Berit Akseth. She keeps the boat steady while her husband Gustav Gjevik drags a crab pot up over the side of the boat. Not that there’s anything wrong with a clear view of the sea, islands and horizon. But the very essence of life in the fishing village of Mausundvær – the largest fishing village south of the Lofoten Islands – is access to food from the sea. The uninterrupted view of the horizon in all directions is a pure bonus.

This outpost of society offers something even most Trønders are not familiar with: Trøndelag’s own archipelago with thousands of polished islets and great fishing for anyone who makes the effort to cast a line.

It’s packed inside the pot. Out of his faithful pot, Gustav pulls five, six, ten, twelve mature crabs, lured in by some remains of a halibut carcass.

“When we set a pot, and leave it a day or two, it’s usually full when we pull it up,” says Gustav.

He pulls up the second pot and once again a dozen edible crabs find their way aboard. Three or four smaller specimens are thrown overboard and left to grow even bigger. Berit shows us how to hold the crabs to avoid being pinched, and the best way to put them in the bucket to avoid damaging any of their many limbs. When the crab fishing is over, we continue by boat between the skerries to their private islet. We go ashore, grab the rope thrown to us and receive help to moor the boat.

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FROM SEA TO MOUTH

They have erected a simple wooden lavvu on their islet to provide shelter and accommodation. There is also a large barbecue, and they put on scallops harvested by local divers to grill in their shells. The pomp and ceremony of the urban kitchen has not reached this isolated spot yet, apart from a few nice pictures in magazines. The focus is exclusively on the produce.

A little later, back in the fishing village, we stand on the quayside by the fish landing centre and greet the local crab fishermen; people who live by the sea.

On the boat is a chap in orange who works at sea, while on land is one of the centre’s four employees – his wife. Few words are exchanged while one crate of crabs after the other is taken ashore, ready to be transported from the island community to supermarkets and gourmet restaurants on the mainland.

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TRØNDELAG’S ARCHIPELAGO

A little later, we are back in Gustav’s boat heading in the direction of Frøya.

However, we are not going to this large island with few trees. We stop a little over halfway on one of the many small islands in the Trøndelag archipelago. Gustav reduces speed and navigates into a narrow bay with cliffs on both sides. We spot a sandy beach at the end of the bay. We jump ashore, while Gustav anchors the boat.

We put on our wetsuits – a necessity if you plan to stay in the water for some time – and then attach our diving masks and snorkels. The area is a paradise for swimmers, free divers and scuba divers – not to mention the area’s commercial scallop divers.

However, our mission on this afternoon is fun, not food. We wade out into the shallow green water and dive underwater to explore.

“We cannot live by the sight of the sea.”

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Snorkelling in one of the archipelago’s many gems Photo Pages 6-13: Jarle Hagen

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Trøndelag offers many excellent areas for diving and snorkelling, from the shore or boat. You will find everything from wrecks, kelp forests and teeming marine life to walls, overhangs and not least the chance to harvest the world’s best scallops.

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KURINGEN W AT E R F R O N T H O T E L A year-round bathing resort for wellness and enjoyment! The coastal experiences of the future in Åfjord will include enriching water-based experiences in the summer and winter seasons, with swimming pools, sandy beaches and floating saunas. What about floating bathtub? Kuringen waterfront hotel, along with Åfjord municipality and Stokkøya beach hotel, have big plans for nature-loving wellness guests.

Kuringen waterfront hotel has an idyllic location in a bay, naturally surrounded by islets and islands, making it a safe place for water-based activities such as SUP boarding, kayaking and bathing. With easy access to the best local food from the sea and surrounding nature, you can look forward to the most delicious fresh delicacies in the restaurant.

Originally a fish depot dating from 1885, Kuringen has been transformed into a modern hotel with a waterfront restaurant. The history of the building is integrated in the new surroundings, which accommodates 29 guests who can enjoy wonderful sea views and private balconies.

Don’t miss the inaugural Winter Bathing Festival at Kuringen beach hotel on 20-22 March 2020!

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S T O K K Ø YA Minimalist, modern and down to earth. Or should we say “down to sand”? Located on one of Norway’s finest sandy beaches, Stokkøya Strandhotell offers a unique coastal experience!

Right at the end of a long and isolated road, the founders of the sea centre have built up a beachfront gem. You will find a variety of architecturally distinctive beach houses, not to mention a wonderful beach bar renowned for fantastic seafood.

This attracts a steady stream of Norwegians and tourists from every corner of the globe.

Whether you are attracted by a relaxing weekend in an idyllic setting with the indescribable tranquillity and views of the beach bar or activities like sea kayaking, wind surfing and swimming, you are unlikely to find a better spot than Stokkøya.

Photo: Sverre Hjørnevik Read more at www.stokkoy.no

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TRØNDELAG ARCHIPELAGO Mausundvær is not alone in offering outstanding opportunities for outdoor recreation, including berry picking and fishing. The Trøndelag archipelago consists of thousands of islands, islets and skerries. Local ferries, passenger boats and bridges take you from island to island, where you can visit ancient fishing villages, eat local food and enjoy a beer at the local brew pub.

in search of more physical activities, you can try sea rafting by rigid-inflatable boat (RIB) or seek out a local diving and kayaking club for an exciting course, to rent equipment or go on a guided adventure.

Live the simple life. You can stay in a traditional rorbu (fishermen’s cottage) or a solitary lighthouse amongst the waves. Many a German find their way here to fish the summer’s night away, while others come to watch the white-tailed sea eagle dive for fish and capture a memory of a lifetime with their camera. If you are

Explore the coast the way you want to – fast paced or pure peace and tranquillity.

If you rent a boat, you can visit one or more of the many small islands and islets in the archipelago or see if the fish are biting.

Photo: Jarle Hagen 16

T R AV E L T I P S A L O N G T H E C O A S T Austrått in Ørland is one of Norway’s oldest manors, with a history dating back more than 1000 years. The former residents include Lady Ingerd, a significant personality in Norway during the Reformation, and a source of inspiration for a famous play by Henrik Ibsen.

Visit a modern fish farm and watch the salmon leaping in their pens on a quick, safe, and eventful guided boat trip from the Coastal Museum (Kystmuseet) at Sandstad, Hitra.

Visit the fishing village of Titran, where the buildings bear witness to its former glory. A magical place where sea meets sky.

The Titran disaster of 1899 claimed the lives of 140 fishermen in one night due to a hurricane.

Out towards the open sea on Stokkøya is the wonderful Hosnasand and Stokkøya Sjøsenter with its distinctive architecture. Close by is Harbakhula, a huge natural rock cave in the mountain, offering a breathtaking view of the archipelago.

The archipelago north of Frøya is known as “gullrekka”, the Golden Chain. All the islands have their own special character and history, but still have in common the same coastal culture and the sea as their larder.

Explore the coastal landscape by bike. You will find one gem after the other in Rissa, from Stadsbygd and the coastal heritage museum (Kystens Arv) and up to Råkvåg, where the quayside warehouses house a fishery museum, art exhibition and several places to eat.

Spend the night at a lighthouse with the open sea as your neighbour. Climbing to the top of the lighthouse tower offers a view for miles around.

On safari in Froan, Norway’s largest marine nature reserve, you are guaranteed to see white-tailed eagles, cormorants and seals, as well as many other bird and animal species.

Visit one of the region’s many festivals, village fairs and pageants.

Photos (from left): Quayside warehouses in Råkvåg (Marius Rua) Kayak (Klipp & Lim) | Austrått Manor in Ørland (Jette Petersen) 17

Photo above: Steinar Johansen | Photos below (from left): Nina Grindvik Sæternes | Linn J. Ofstad

THE COASTAL MUSEUM IN RØRVIK – EXPERIENCE 10,000 YEARS OF COASTAL CULTURE More than 10,000 years ago, the first people settled in what would become Norway. They were lured mostly by the resources of the sea and coast. The people along the coast developed a unique and rich culture in harmony with nature.

We have exported seafood overseas for more than 1,000 years.

The Coastal Museum in Rørvik conveys the coastal culture of the past, present and future. Experience exhibition “From the Stone Age to High-Tech Society”, the old trading post Berggården, stay overnight in a fishermen’s cottage at the listed fishing village of Sør-Gjæslingan or enjoy first-class local food at Café Norveg! www.kystmuseetrorvik.no | tel: +47 488 80 024 18

H OT E L F R ØYA – T R AV E LE R S ’ C H O IC E 2 0 1 8 & 2019 Stay on the outer coast by the open sea with wild and beautiful nature right on your doorstep. Hotel Frøya is a modern hotel with 60 guest rooms and 22 apartments, conference facilities and a wonderful restaurant focusing on local food.

Enjoy activities ranging from island hopping, eagle safaris and deep-sea fishing to local beer tasting and great hiking trails overlooking the sea.

Welcome to the island of Frøya and Hotel Frøya! www.hotellfroya.no | tel: +47 72 46 45 00 | post@hotellfroya.no

FJELLVÆR GJEST EGÅ RD Enjoy the coast and coastal culture all year round!

Stay in cabins with a sea view. Hire a boat or use your feet to explore our island. If you are travelling by boat, or you have your own cabin and boat, you can dock at the marina and come up for a bite to eat or to participate in some of our events. Taste all the delicious fish and meat dishes we are renowned for, based on Hitra´s fantasticIngredients, including fish from the sea, venison from the land and cheeses and cured meats from our farm food producers. www.fjellvar.no | tel: +47 92 80 12 64

H IT R A T UR IS T S E RV IC E Hitra Turistservice rents holiday houses and apartments with boats on the islands of Hitra and Frøya. Enjoy a fishing trip in pure, fresh sea air. www.hitraturistservice.no | tel: + 47 40 00 19 55

E X P LO R E H IT R A Experience Hitra at its very best. We offer package holidays including accommodation, activities and meals. Whether you want to go on an eagle safari, hike on historic ground or taste some of the world’s best produce. www.explorehitra.no | tel: + 47 40 00 19 55

COAS TAL H ER I TAGE MU SE UM Welcome to Trøndelag’s beautiful coastal heritage museum, Kystens Arv, in Fosen! A full-day experience for the whole family with activities and experiences related to traditional boats, crafts and the history of the coastal dwellers.

Explore the exhibitions in the museum, learn to row traditional boats, relax in the café or see the boat builders in action. Just one hour from Trondheim.

Welcome!

www.kystensarv.no | tel: +47 73 85 55 60 19

T HE COA ST OF TRØ N DEL AG AC C O M M O D ATI O N 1

DOLMSUNDE T HOTE LL Full-service hotel and event organiser on the outermost part of the coast of Trøndelag. www.dol m s u n de t. n o

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FJE LLVÆR GJE S TEGÅRD Experience the coast and coastal culture year-round! www.fj e l l v ar. no

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HI TR A T URIS TS E RV ICE Rents holiday houses and apartments with boats on the islands of Hitra and Frøya. www.hi tr atu r is ts e r v ic e . n o

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S TOK KØYA S J Ø S EN T ER Nature - architecture - food - adventures. www. st o k ko y. n o

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S Ø R- G JÆ S L I N G A N Stay overnight in a rorbu (fishermen’s cottage) at a nationally listed fishing village. www. k y st m u se e t ro r v i k . n o

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FY R TÅ R N Stay overnight in a lighthouse. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

EXPE RI E NC E S / AC TI VI T IES 7

DE E P-SE A F IS HING

12 PA D D L I N G Discover Trøndelag from the water with perfect conditions for kayaking and canoeing. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

Superb conditions along the entire coast of Trøndelag. www.tron de l ag. c o m 8

SAFAR I S Perfect conditions for eagle and seal safaris. www.tron de l ag. c o m / s afar i

13 BI R DWATC H I N G Several exciting locations for birdwatching along the coast of Trøndelag. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

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I SL AND HO PPING

14 S EA R A FT I N G You will find companies offering sea rafting along the entire coast of Trøndelag. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

Island hopping in wonderful and exciting coastal nature with short distances between experiences. www.tron de l ag. c o m 10 GEOLOGY Experience the geology island of Leka, exciting stories from the centre of the earth. www.vi sitn am dal e n . c o m 11

15 VISIT A FISH FARM Join a guided trip to a salmon farm and learn about modern Norwegian aquaculture. www. k y st m u se e t . n o

DI VI NG Clear water and a rich marine life await beneath the surface. www.tron de l ag. c o m

16 WINDSURFING Hosnasand on the island of Stokkøy is described by enthusiasts as the ideal place for windsurfing. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

A TT R AC TI O NS 20 H A N D EL S S T ED ET H OP S J Ø One of the largest trading posts on the coast of Trøndelag in the 18th and 19th centuries. www. h o p sj o . n o

17 K YSTE NS ARV Coastal heritage museum with boat building yard. www.k yste n s ar v. no 18 COASTAL M US E UM O F S Ø R-TRØ NDE L AG Exhibitions on coastal culture and aquaculture, trips to fish farms. www.k ystm u s e e t. n o

21 BRYG G ER EK K A I N R Å K VÅG Longest row of old quayside warehouses outside a city in Norway. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

19 COASTAL M US E UM RØ RV IK Conveys the coastal culture through permanent and temporary exhibitions. www.k ystm u s e e tr o r v ik. no

22 AU S T R ÅT T M A N OR Renaissance manor dating from 1656. www. n k i m . n o / a u st rat t

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A MILLENNIUM OF TOURISM

What is it about Trøndelag’s history that has led to people making pilgrimages here from all over Europe for hundreds of years – on foot?

Photo: David Tett 22

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Most people know that due to St. Olav, Christians have gone on pilgrimages to the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim from the 11th century up to the present day. Many people probably think of the Viking Age as a period characterized by violence and power struggles, but this chapter of history contains so much more. Let’s take it from the beginning.

The wanderlust of the Vikings, Berserkers on wild rampages and bloody feuds are reasonably well-known both in Norway and abroad. Accounts of Norwegian history are characterized by spectacular events, raids and conquests in Europe, crusading explorers and the mythical demolition of London Bridge. However, behind this facade we find peaceful people.

In the 3rd century AD, the Norwegian society transformed from a tribal society into a chieftain society – an elite warrior took political power based on loyalty from allied noblemen and farmers. The society was based on a system of laws and rules, whereby the laws were quoted from memory in the bygdeting (local assembly). People met on the tingplass (assembly site) to make important decisions and resolve disputes.

Traces of these sites are dated back to the 1st century AD. While the Migration Period in Europe (400-800 AD) was characterized by chaos and bloody expulsions, Scandinavia was characterized by relative harmony that was unique in a European context.

While Trøndelag was characterized by relative peace, compared with places on the continent and the British Isles, different areas were controlled by powerful and sometimes brutal chieftains. To deter enemies, these chieftains were surrounded by warriors, but such men did not come cheaply. Long before the Viking Age, from around 400 A.D., these chieftains travelled south on raids to loot and plunder valuables to pay their forces and thereby retain loyalty. Many warriors pledged allegiance to chieftains because they were renowned for sailing southwards and returning with valuable cargo.

Several of these chieftains also took on roles as commanders under Roman emperors, returning with gold as well as experience in the tactics and strategy of battle.

Consequently, there were many stories of fearless barbarians from the north long before the Viking Age, which were reinforced when emigration accelerated.

As most of the Viking battles took place away from home, society in Norway generally progressed peacefully.

Many settled in Europe for longer periods, before eventually returning home with foreign customs and accounts of foreign people such as the Celts, Goths and Saxons. Culturally, the Trønders did not live in isolation before the Viking Age, as is evidenced by the iron industry in Levanger and Gauldalen. As early as 200 A.D., around 40 tonnes of iron of unrivalled quality was produced annually for the Roman Empire, amongst others.

In line with the growing prosperity, the ting (derived from the Norse word for assembly) system was further developed and larger regional assemblies became more important. Here in Trøndelag, all the districts – counties – surrounding the Trondheimsfjord had a joint assembly at Frosta, where one of Norway’s oldest bodies of law was developed. It is known today as the Frostating’s law. The system of democracy practiced in Norway today – based on fylkesting (county councils) and ultimately the Storting (parliament) – is a direct descendant of these ancient assemblies.

Photo (right): Tinghaugen in Frosta (Marius Rua) 24

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In the Viking Age, fewer and fewer people gained increasingly more power. This is how the realms we know today grew. This occurred throughout Europe and was not unique to Scandinavia. This nation building was characterized by power struggles at various levels: between kings, between kings and chieftains and between various chieftains. Shifting alliances and warfare were important aspects of the political game.

The history of Norway is an intricate story of kings, chieftains, belligerent neighbours, alliances and a changing social system. At the start of the Viking Age, Norway was not one country as we perceive it today. Rather than central rule, Norway was ruled through a network of alliances between the king and powerful chieftains. Some of the most powerful chieftains were the Earls of Lade, who ruled Central Norway, Northern Norway and Western Norway.

Olav II Haraldsson became one of the most important kings in the formation of Norway. After defeating the Earls of Lade and the King of Denmark, King Olav II became the first king since Harald Fairhair to rule over a unified Norway. As a Christian, King Olav cooperated with the church politically as well as economically, and created a permanently unified nation. Meanwhile, many disliked Olav’s sometimes brutal Christianization of the country, and the King of Denmark, Canute the Great, bought himself an alliance to overthrow Olav.

Olav fled the country to Gardarike (now part of Russia) in 1028, and Canute the Great installed the Earls of Lade to rule the country on his behalf.

Two years later, Olav returned to Norway with his men. Olav sought to gain the support of farmers in Trøndelag to defeat the Earls of Lade.

When he reached Stiklestad, Olav was attacked and killed by his opponents.

Legend has it that several miracles occurred after his death (which you can read about on pages 30-31). Olav’s death and canonisation would become one of the most important events in Norwegian history; it marked the ultimate breakthrough for Christianity and the reunification of Norway as a single realm.

Illustration, above: The death of Olav II Haraldsson at Stiklestad (Halfdan Egedius/National Library of Norway) Photo (right): The Nidaros Cathedral's famous Rose Window (Eskil Roll)

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WARRIOR, KING AND SAINT Olav Haraldsson lost the Battle of Stiklestad, but became the Eternal King of Norway.

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Photo 1 and 2: Espen Storhaug, photo 3: CH - trondelag.com

Olav II Haraldsson is best known as a saint and a Viking King. In person, he was an ambitious man.

He set off as a Viking at age 12 in search of battle, power and alliances around Europe.

Olav’s nickname Olav the Stout indicates that he was a large, heavily built man. Ancient poems and chronicles tell us that Olav participated in the attack on and siege of London in 1009. He was also involved in besieging and plundering Canter-bury, ravaging in France and Spain and fighting with enemies in Sweden and Denmark. Olav and his men joined Ethelred’s army to reconquer England from the Danes.

The Danish King Canute fled to Denmark but returned to England in June 1015. Olav then changed sides and supported Canute’s invasion. Olav stayed with Canute until they had conquered Wessex.

However, a power struggle evolved with

the Danish King Canute, whose aim was to rule over Norway. Olav was ultimately killed in the Battle of Stiklestad on 29 July 1030.

A farmer at Stiklestad took care of Olav’s corpse.

It was later taken to Nidaros (Trondheim) and buried.

Colloquially and legend has it that several miracles happened, including that Olav’s hair and nails grew after his death and that a blind person regained their sight after contact with the dead king’s blood. Olav was canonised as a saint in 1031 and given the title Eternal King of Norway. The Nidaros Cathedral was built over his burial site and the church and the king’s reliquary casket became an important pilgrimage site.

The Saint Olav Drama (Spelet om Heilag Olav) was written in memory of the battle and the Saint King.

The play is a dramatic presentation of the events leading up to the death of the king. The play, which premiered in 1954, is performed at

Stiklestad every summer.

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCES AND ACTIVITIES EVERY DAY THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER! 22 JUNE - 2 AUGUST 2020 Stiklastadir On a visit to the mediaeval farm of Stiklastadir, you can immerse yourself in the Viking Age and the Middle Ages.

There are experiences for young and old alike. Learn about the period before the battle and the new society that emerged. The children can act as archaeologists and find traces of the past, or dress up as Vikings and fight with swords and shields in a “play battle”. You can also experience medieval crafts, historical food, archery, axe throwing and more. Guided tours and storytelling sessions are also offered daily at Stiklastadir.

For further info, programme and tickets, please visit: stiklestad.no

The Family Silver The folk museum at Stiklestad is brought to life in the summer with The Family Silver (Arvesølvet). Three enclosed areas will be brought to life, replicating the years 1893, 1942 and 1959. Stories of major historical events and everyday life are told with fun, laughter and sincerity. The folk museum also features a historic café and various family activities.

The Saint Olav Festival (Olsokdagene) at Stiklestad 24 – 29 July 2020 A full week of experiences and activities for the whole family.

Welcome to evocative concerts, interesting lectures, the Stiklastadir Market and The Saint Olav Drama. (on 25, 26, 28 and 29 July at 19.00).

ARCHITECTURE FOR ETERNITY Right in the heart of historic Trondheim, surrounded by a beautiful cemetery and park winding along the river, is the Nidaros Cathedral.

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The Nidaros Cathedral is built over the grave of Olav the Holy, the Viking King who Christianized Norway.

Work on the cathedral commenced in 1070 and was completed around 1300. Following several fires and a lack of maintenance work during the Middle Ages, the cathedral was in an extremely poor state of repair.

A decision was made in the late 19th century to restore the cathedral as a national symbol. This signalled the start of a major restoration project, which has lasted for 150 years. Around 30 craftspeople are still working continually on various projects at the cathedral, which is regarded as Norway’s national sanctuary.

This is the world’s northernmost Gothic cathedral.

It is built of greenish and grey soapstone. The most striking feature is the West Front, featuring the enormous stained-glass window, the Rose Window, depicting the Day of Judgement, and the 76 statues and reliefs facing westwards.

Due to the mythology and cult status of St. Olav, the cathedral quickly became the most important sanctuary of the Catholic Church in Northern Europe.

Pilgrims from across Europe have wandered to Nidaros – the old name of Trondheim – for centuries.

To this day, the Nidaros Cathedral remains an important European pilgrimage site, and the number of people wandering the pilgrim paths to Trondheim, known as the St. Olav Ways, increases every year.

The Nidaros Cathedral is still used for religious events for the city’s churchgoers, as well as hosting concerts and other cultural activities.

A R C H B I S H O P ’ S PA L A C E

Right beside the Nidaros Cathedral is the Archbishop’s Palace. These two buildings have a special place in Norway’s history. Ever since the late 12th century, the Archbishop’s Palace has been a meeting place for powerful men and a venue for grand parties.

This building now houses the Archbishop’s Palace Museum, the Armory and Resistance Museum, and the Crown Regalia featuring the Norwegian crown jewels.

www.nidarosdomen.no Photos: Nidaros Cathedral | View from the rooftop (Henning Grøtt/NDR) The Norwegian King’s crown (Lasse Berre) 31

N I D A R O S C AT H E D R A L

The Nidaros Cathedral is open to the public every day of the year. During the summer seasons, guided tours are offered daily in Norwegian, English, German and French.

In summer, it’s also possible to climb the tower and enjoy a wonderful view of the city.

Adults NOK 110 / children NOK 45 THE CROWN REGALIA

The King’s crown and other items that make up the Regalia of Norway are displayed in the west wing of the Archbishop’s Palace. Adults NOK 110 / children NOK 45 Closed on Mondays in the off-season A R C H B I S H O P ’ S PA L A C E M U S E U M

The Archbishop’s Palace Museum houses the most spectacular finds from the archaeological excavations in the 1980s.

Adults NOK 110 / children NOK 45 Closed on Mondays in the off-season.

BUILDING DEMOCRACY WITH MEMORIES

THE FALSTAD CENTRE - a national museum, World War II memorial and centre for human rights and democracy

The German Nazis established the Falstad Prison Camp in the small village of Ekne in Levanger in 1941. The Nazis used a brick building that had housed the Falstad Reformative School since the 1920s. During World War II, more than 4,200 people from more than 15 nations were imprisoned at Falstad – and more than 200 were executed by the Nazis in the Falstad Forest.

The period between the spring of 1942 and the autumn of 1943 is considered the most brutal time in the camp’s history. The prisoners were subjected to an extremely violent regime, and it was during this period that the executions took place.

The victims executed in the Falstad Forest included more than 100 Soviet citizens, at least 74 Yugoslavs and 43 Norwegians. The exact number of victims is unknown, and it is believed that there are still unregistered graves in the forest. For the Yugoslav prisoners, Falstad became a death camp. Many of the condemned prisoners only spent a short time in prison before being executed. Among the Norwegian victims were 10 men from Trøndelag selected as a reprisal for attempted sabotages, and 23 who were sentenced to death following the Majavatn Tragedy.

The prison camps in Norway were directly connected to the concentration camps on the Continent. Many were imprisoned at Falstad before being deported to concentration camps

such as Sachsenhausen, Ravensbrück and Auschwitz-Birkenau. More than 40,000 camps were established across Europe during World War II.

After the German surrender in May 1945, the Falstad Prison Camp was turned into a forced labour camp for people convicted of treason. From that time until the camp was closed in March 1949, more than 3,000 people had served time at Falstad.

The history of Falstad dates to the establishment of the Falstad Institution for the Upbringing of Troubled Boys in 1895. The reformative school housed boys aged from 10 to 18 who had either committed criminal acts or been neglected, mistreated and “morally corrupted” by their parents.

Falstad Reformative School was part of the Norwegian residential school movement which in its day represented a progressive view on education and upbringing.

The brick building was built in 1920, but the reformative school was forced to move out when the building was seized by the German Nazis in the autumn of 1941.

The school was then operated at a nearby farm until it was formally closed in 1949.

The Falstad Centre Foundation was founded in 2000 and moved into the main building of the former prison camp in 2006. Falstad is now a centre for peace and human rights, a memorial site, museum and education centre. The main topics conveyed by the centre include the history of imprisonment during World War II, human rights and democracy.

Research has recently commenced on the history of the reformative school.

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EXPERIENCES AT THE FALSTAD CENTRE Digital reconstruction As not all the buildings from the prison camp era still exist, the Falstad Centre has made a digital reconstruction of the camp at it was in 1945. Visitors can gain unique insight into the history of the former prison camp by exploring the landscape. The virtual reconstruction includes several witness accounts and other historical material from the war and is ideal for young and old visitors alike. The presentation is available in English, German, Russian and Norwegian.

The Falstad Forest The Falstad Forest is a national memorial site. After the war, around 50 graves were discovered in the forest. Several memorials have been erected to commemorate the prisoners who were executed, including one by Norwegian sculptor Odd Hilt. A peaceful path now leads between the Falstad Centre and the Falstad Forest. The area is ideal for personal reflection and is accessible to wheelchair users.

Several exhibitions The Falstad Centre’s permanent exhibition “Face to Face” conveys the history of the Falstad Prison Camp and its place in European World War II history. The exhibition presents the stories of eight people who for various reasons were forced to flee during World War II. The centre always features several temporary exhibitions.

Guiding The destinies of several thousand people are linked to the history of Falstad. Several of these fascinating stories have been developed into guided tours, which are available as individual programmes during the summer season and on request in the off-season.

Accommodation The Falstad Centre is one of two hotels in Levanger municipality. It has 28 guest rooms and a kitchen serving local food. Guests have access to the exhibitions, library and other facilities, and can spend time in a meaningful atmosphere.

Events year-round There is always something on at the Falstad Centre.

Check our events calendar for the latest on book launches, exhibitions, concerts and public discussions.

Read more on www.falstadsenteret.no, and follow us on facebook and instagram.

Photos from top, left to right: The Falstad Centre (Christian Tustrup) Digital reconstruction in use | The memorial in the Falstad Forest Illustration by John S. Jamtli in the exhibition “Stories of Escape”.

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HISTO R I CAL TRØ NDEL AG HIST O R I C AL E XPE RI E NC ES IN T R Ø N D ELA G T I N G H AU G EN Norway’s oldest court. www.vi si t f ro st a . n o

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NI DAROS CATHE DRAL The world’s northernmost Gothic cathedral. www.ni d ar o s do m e n . no

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ARC HB I S HO P’S PAL ACE The Crown Regalia, archaeological exhibition. www.ni d ar o s do m e n . no

1 7 S T EI N V I K H OL M C A S T L E Island fortress dating from the 14th century. www. f o rt i d sm i n n e f o re n i n g e n . n o

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KR I STI AN S TE N F O RTRE S S Fort towering over downtown Trondheim. www.kri s tians te nfe s tn ing. n o

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MUNKHO LM E N Trondheim’s Viking Age execution site is now a popular excursion spot. www.mu nkh o l m e n . no

1 8 COA S TA L M U S EU M RØ RV I K A N D S Ø R- G JÆ SLI NGAN Coastal heritage centre, exhibitions, historic walks, films and storytelling theatre. www. k y st m u se e t ro r vi k . n o 1 9 N ORW EG I A N S AWM I L L M U S EU M A national technical industrial heritage site. www. sa g b ru k sm u se e t . n o

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RI NGVE M US IC M US E UM Norway’s national museum for music and instruments. www.ri n gv e . n o

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THE AR M O RY & RE S IS TANCE M US E UM The Armed Forces’ museum in Trondheim. www.rus tkam m e r e t. n o

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SVE R RE S B O RG TRØ NDE L AG F O LK E MU S EU M One of Norway’s largest open air museums. www.sve r r e s b o r g. no

2 2 RØ ROS M U S EU M Experience historical Røros with a visit to Olav’s Mine and The Copper Works. www. ro ro sm u se e t . n o

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TRONDHE IM M ARITIM E M US E UM Exhibition on maritime history. www.tro n dh e im s jofar t. no

2 3 M EL DA L D I S T R I C T M U S EU M Open air museum with around 20 preserved buildings. www. o i . n o / b e so k / m e ld a l

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EGGE MU S E UM Open air museum with animals. www.eg ge m u s e u m . no

24 S EL BU FOL K M U S EU M Experience Selbu’s rich cultural heritage of handicrafts. www.v i si t se lb u . n o

STI KLE S TAD NATIO NAL CULTURE CE N T R E Battleground where King Olav II fell and museum. www.sti kl e s tad. no

2 5 OR K L A M U S EU M OF I N D U S T RY Experiences for the whole family based on the Thamshavn line and the Gammelgruva mine. www. o i . n o

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2 0 OP P DA L M U S EU M The history of Oppdal from late 16th century to 1950. www. o p p d a lsm u se e t . n o 2 1 T H E T H A M S PAV I L I ON The history of the 1893 stave church building. www.t h a m sp av i lj o n g e n . n o

11 THE FALS TAD CE NTRE National centre for human rights. www.fals tads e nte r e t. no

2 6 BJ U G N BYG DAT U N M Ø L N A RG Å R D EN

12 SAE MI E N S IJTE Conveys Southern Sami culture history. www.sa e m ie ns ijte . n o

2 7 COA S TA L M U S EU M OF S Ø R T RØ N D EL AG Exhibitions on coastal culture and aquaculture. www. k y st m u se e t . n o

Open air museum with 18 buildings and 39 boats. www. m o ln a rg a a rd e n . n o

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HEGR A FO RTRE S S National memorial and vibrant fortress. www.heg r afe s tn ing. n o

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MUNKE BY M O NAS TE RY RUINS Ruins of 12th century monastery. www.fortids m inne fo r e ninge n. no

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K Y S T EN S A RV Coastal heritage museum with boat building yard and one of the country’s largest collections of traditional clinker-built boats. www. k y st e n sa r v. n o Renaissance manor dating from 1656. www. n k i m . n o / a u st rat t

15 TAUTR A M O NAS TE RY RUINS Monastery ruins from 1207 side by side idyllic Klostergården. www.fortids m inne fo r e ninge n. no

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AU S T R ÅT T FOR T German World War II coastal artillery site. www. f o rsv a rsb y g g . n o

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R Ø R OS

TRONDHEIM HOME OF NORDIC FLAVOURS Look forward to experiencing the centre of Norway! Norway’s food capital with one gastronomic gem after the other. The city with short distances.

Attractions and museums that convey our history and cultural heritage. A leading knowledge and technology environment with start-ups, tech-hubs and entrepreneur willingness.

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Where the fusion of history, arts, technology and green initiatives ignite a culture of innovation and rich tradition. Trondheim stands out with its progressive nature and vibrant city life, while still embodying its beating, small-town heart.

culture for mixing locally sourced ingredients with bright new ideas, such as Michelin Star restaurants Credo and Fagn or farm to table fusions like Bula Bistro, Kraft Bodega, To Rom og Kjøkken, Spontan Vinbar, Kitchen and Table and Sellanraa Bok & Bar.

Did you know Trondheim was once the Viking capital of Norway? Even before the Viking Age, people were drawn to the region due to the seafood-rich fjords and vast mountain ranges hosting an abundance of wildlife and fertile soil. Small and big game, lamb, shellfish, salmon and other seafood, as well as berries and mushrooms are all specialties from the Trondheim region.

Today, Trondheim is bustling with youth and fresh ideas, a booming tech community, and cutting edge start-up incubators and coworking spaces like DIGS.

Anywhere you venture in Trondheim, nature is never far away. Just beyond the city’s edges lies a network of marked trails, perfect for hiking, mountain biking and cross-country skiing. And a mere two hours drive you will be surrounded by beautiful landscapes such as the scenic islands of Hitra, Frøya and Støkkoya or the cozy UNESCO World Heritage town of Røros.

With a wide selection of charming cafes and eateries, local coffee shops, and microbreweries, Trondheim is a worthwhile pilgrimage for foodies. There is a strong

Explore Trondheim, Norway’s hidden gem and home of Nordic flavours.

www.visittrondheim.no

Photos from left: Scallops (Jarle Hagen) | Nidarosdomen (Mykola Ksenofontov) Powerhouse (Mykola Ksenofontov) | Peas (Jarle Hagen) 37

The historic wharves in Trondheim (Grim Berge) 38

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Photos, above: Rockheim (Christian Houge) |Old Town Bridge (Jan Ove Iversen - overpari.no) | Kristiansten Fort (Jarle Hagen) Kayaking down Nidelva (Jarle Hagen)

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Nidarosdomen (The Cathedral)

Great shopping in Trondheim In our compact city center Midtbyen you just take a short walk between our many shops. Choose between Scandinavian design, shopping senters, luxury, specialized and sport shops, as well as numerous cafés and restaurants.

Opening hours: 10.00AM – 6.00PM all days except Sundays Shopping senters: open until 8.00PM (6PM) www.midtbyen.no

/midtbyn

Midtbyen

EVENTS IN TRØNDELAG

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The residents of Trøndelag love to gather! Regardless of the season you visit, there is bound to be an outdoor theatrical performance, festival or market taking place somewhere in the region.

The most popular events include the St. Olav Festival (Olavsfest), the Trøndelag Food Festival and the Pstereo Festival in Trondheim, The Saint Olav Festival (Olsokdagene) at Stiklestad featuring The Saint Olav Drama (Spelet om Heilag Olav), the annual winter market Rørosmartnan and the Steinkjer Festival.

The St. Olav Festival in Trondheim is Norway’s largest church and cultural festival, each year presenting concerts by a mix of regional, national and international stars along with lectures, meetings and a historical market.

This coincides with the Trøndelag Food Festival, featuring a wide range of food stalls, culinary courses and restaurants.

You will find traditional music festivals in virtually every municipality throughout the region, while the locals of Fosen, Hitra and Frøya hold fishing festivals renowned for their great atmosphere.

During the annual Saint Olav Festival at Stiklestad, the area around the Stiklestad National Culture Centre is full of activities for the whole family in the daytime and The Saint Olav Drama in the evening, as well as wonderful concerts and exciting lectures. The Saint Olav Drama takes place on the actual battlefield where Olav Haraldsson fell in 1030.

Other outdoor theatrical performances worth noting include “The Karolinerspel” in Tydal, “Pe-Torsa” in Lierne and “Elden” in Røros.

There is also a strong tradition of markets in Trøndelag, as reflected by the annual Rørosmartnan, Rennebumartnan and Christmas markets in Trondheim and Røros, the regular Farmers’ Market and several other local markets. These are excellent places to look for local food, decorative arts and crafts, and increasingly more markets are focusing on local quality goods.

Photos (from left): Elden in Røros (Elden) | The St. Olav Festival (Cathrine Ruud) Pstereo Festival (Marius Rua) | The Farmers’ Market (Torleif Kvinnesland) | The Saint Olav Drama (Espen Storhaug) 43

30 July - 1 August 2020 matriketmidt.no

44

WH AT ' S ON ?

JANUARY

K A RO L I N ER S PEL ET Tydal | karolinerspelet.no RØ RV IK DAG AN Vikna | rorvikdagan.no

F E M UN DLØ PET S L ED DO G RACE Røros | femundlopet.no

J ULY / AUG

RØRO S M A R T N A N Røros | rorosmartnan.no FEBRUARY

S T. O L AV ´S FES TIVAL Trondheim | olavsfestdagene.no

SK I TO UR 2 0 2 0 Østersund, Åre, Storlien, Trondheim skitour2020.com

O I TRØN DEL AG FOO D AND BREWERY FES TIVAL Trondheim | tronderskmatfestival.no

MARSIMARTNAN Levanger | marsimartnan.no

COAS TAL CU LTU RE DAY S Bjugn | stiftelsenfrohavet.no

SK R EI ( CO D) F ES T I VA L Rørvik | skreifestivalen.no MARCH

REN N EBU M ARTN AN Rennebu | rennebumartnan.no

WINTER CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL Røros | vinterfestspill.no

N AM S OS M ARTN AN Namsos | namsosmartnan.no

WINTER BATHING FESTIVAL Åfjord | kuringen.no/vinterbadefestival

AUGUST

TRONDHEIM JAZZ FESTIVAL Trondheim | jazzfest.no MAY

TOU R DE F RØYA ( C YC L I N G RACE) Frøya | tourdefroya.no

PE-TO RS A PL AY Lierne | pe-torsa.no DY N AFIT TROLLHEIM EN FJELLM ARATON Oppdal | enern.com/fjellmaraton

JUB A J U B A Trondheim | jubajubafestival.no

HELL BLU ES FES TIVAL Hell, Stjørdal | bluesinhell.no

ST EI N K J ER F ES T I VA L Steinkjer | steinkjerfestivalen.no SEPT

TOPP7 Trondheim | topp7.no

TRONDHEIM CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL Trondheim | kamfest.no TRO N DHEIM M ARATHON Trondheim | trondheimmaraton.no

RØ RO S F O L K F ES T I VA L Røros | rorosfolkfestival.com CO R A LUA C H O I R F ES T I VA L Trondheim | coralua.com

OCT

U T I H AV ET F ES T I VA L Mausundvær | utihavet.no JULY

PS TEREO FES TIVAL Trondheim | pstereo.no FES TN IN G EN Trondheim | festningen.no

VØM M Ø L F ES T I VA L Verdal | vommol.org

JUNE

ELDEN Røros | elden-roros.no

T Y DA L F ES T I VA L Tydal | tydalsfestivaln.no

N OV

FÅRIK ÅL FES TIVAL Oppdal | fjellogfaarikaalfestivalen.no

HILM AR FES TIVAL Steinkjer | hilmarfestivalen.no

BES S A K ER F I S H I N G F ES T I VAL Bessaker | feskfestival.no

RØ ROS CHRIS TM AS M ARKE T Røros | julemarkedroros.no

HO PS J Ø F ES T I VA L Hitra | hopsjo.no

CHRIS TM AS M ARK ET AT STI KLE STA D Stiklestad, Verdal | stiklestad.no DEC

SA I N T O L AV DR A M A Stiklestad, Verdal | stiklestad.no

TRON DHEIM CHRIS TM AS MA RKE T Trondheim | julemarkedet-trondheim.no CHRIS TM AS AT S V ERRES B ORG Trondheim | sverresborg.no

TOT S Å S RO C K Lierne | totsaasrock.no 45

Skrei (Cod) Festival (Steinar Johansen) 46

“NORWAY’S BIRTH CERTIFICATE” - A unique runestone The text on the Kuli Stone, which dates to the 11th century, is regarded as “Norway’s birth certificate” because it’s the first time we know the term “Norway” was used on Norwegian soil.

The Kuli Stone is included on UNESCO’s list of the most important written cultural relics in Norway, “Norway’s document archive”.

The Medieval Trondheim exhibition enables you to stroll through the city’s history. Starting in the Viking era, you can go on a journey through more than 1,000 years! Follow the city’s development from the very beginning at Kaupangen by the mouth of the river Nidelven to the ‘’great’’ medieval town of Nidaros.

The exhibition presents items used in everyday life in medieval Nidaros, most of which date from the 13th and 14th centuries. Entire streets have been recreated, providing a unique glimpse into the everyday life in medieval Nidaros.

Join us on a journey back in time!

RINGVE BOTANICAL GARDEN N T N U’s blo om in g a t t ra c t ion in La de Beautiful plants, crops, historical garden culture and wooden sculptures. Ringve Botanical Garden contains all this and more.

The university’s botanical garden has a wonderful elevated location overlooking the city and fjord. The garden surrounds the historic Ringve manor house, and one of its many highlights is the Historic Park, which was originally planted in English landscape style in the 1860s as the manor house garden.

Colourful flowerbeds bloom in the springtime before the green leaves return on the majestic deciduous trees during the summer.

A botanical garden should conserve plants and display them. The beautiful and lush beds of perennials in the Old Garden feature old conservation-worthy, decorative plants from Trøndelag, while various

types of onions, among the most important crops around the world, are conserved in a separate onion garden. Alongside is a herb garden in a rich Renaissance style containing historical crops that have been used as food, medicine, colouring and fibre.

A stroll around the large pond at Ringve leads you through changing forests planted to correspond with their geographic distribution in the Northern Hemisphere. You will also encounter the animals of the forest, in the form of wooden sculptures that are often popular with the children.

Bring a picnic and enjoy it on the lawns in the garden. You can also be tempted at Café Victoria, which is situated in one of the garden’s historic buildings, where you can also experience the Ringve music museum.

Ad re s s e : Erli n g S ka k ke s g t . 4 7, Tro n dhe i m | ntnu.no/v ite nska psm use e t Photo: Åge Hojem, NTNU Vitenskapsmuseet

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TRØNDEL AG F O R C HI LD RE N OASEN S VØMMEO G MILJØS ENT ER

DO KTO RTJ Ø N N A F R ILUF T S PA R K

Northern Europe’s largest water park in a mountain, with water slides and a diving tower.

Perfect for summer family fun. Children can try paddling, log rafting, nature trails and more.

www.oasen-namsos.no

www.rorosmuseet.no/doktortjonna

NAMSOS

RØROS

EGGE MUS EU M

N A M S S KO G A N FA M ILIE PA R K

Open air museum with animals and exhibitions in a child-friendly area.

One of Norway’s largest and best wildlife and activity parks.

www.eggemuseum.no

STEINKJER

RYPETOPPE N ADVENTUREPARK Climbing park, canoe and SUP rental, zip-lines. www.familieparken.no

NAMSSKOGAN

H ØY T O G LAV T www.rypetoppen.no

Climbing park near Trondheim city centre. Experience an exciting world from the treetops!

MERÅKER

www.hoytlavt.no

TRONDHEIM

O PPLEV OP P DA L Children’s rafting, wilderness camp and outdoor tournament. www.opplevoppdal.no

S T IKLE S TA D S U M M E R Exciting activities for young and old. Be a Viking for a day and learn what life was like in the Viking Age.

OPPDAL

BA RNAS NAT U RVERD EN In the realm of the Jutul – north of the Dovre Mountains and east of Trollheimen – you will discover The Children’s Natural World, a whole universe for young hiking enthusiasts! www.tt.no/barnas-naturverden

RENNEBU

www.stiklestad.no 48

VERDAL

TRØNDE L AG F OR C HI LD RE N S VERRE SB ORG FOLK EMU SEU M

V IT E N S E N T E R E T Have fun with science and technology. An oasis for explorers of all ages and the place for aha experiences!

Be a knight for a day, meet the animals and go on a guided historic walk.

www.vitensenteret.com

TRONDHEIM

R O C KH E IM An exciting place for the whole family with musical activities for young and old. www.rockheim.no

www.sverresborg.no

TRONDHEIM

TRONDHEIM

T R O N DH E IM M A R IT IM E M US E UM

NTNU VITENSK A P SMU SEET

Take the ship rat Sivert’s seamen’s test and check out exhibitions on the steamship and sailing ship eras.

Museum of natural and cultural history with exhibitions on science, archaeology and cultural history. www.ntnu.no/vitenskapsmuseet TRONDHEIM

PIRBAD ET foto: synlig.no

Norway’s largest indoor water park with proximity to and view of the fjord, weather and wind. www.pirbadet.no

www.trondheimsjofart.no

TRONDHEIM

TRONDHEIM

BARNAS R I N GVE

NIDAROS CATHEDRAL AND THE ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE

Instrument workshop, courses and guided tours for children in wonderful surroundings at the Ringve Music Museum.

Go exploring at the Nidaros Cathedral and see Trondheim from the top of the tower (min. age 8) then see the King’s Crown at the Crown Regalia!

www.ringve.no

www.nidarosdomen.no

TRONDHEIM

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TRONDHEIM

EFFERVESCENT MUSEUMS

The Museums in Sør-Trøndelag offer many unique cultural experiences.

Your senses will be stimulated by exhibitions, events and performances that will create life-long memories.

Stories connects people together – they disappoint and provoke, create excitement and relaxation, and teach us to see things in new perspectives. Stories also provide knowledge about the present and the past, so they are very important. Equally important are the experiences of them and how they are conveyed.

The Museums in Sør-Trøndelag (MiST) comprise 12 museums with major appeal. The provision is varied and be are bubbling over with enthusiasm to share the art-, music-, coastal- and cultural history with you.

You will find something to suit every taste and it won’t take long until you are in the mode to reflect, explore, play and learn.

Beats by Rockheim Just a stone’s throw from Trondheim Central Station, you will find Rockheim – the Norwegian National Museum of Popular Music. The music is a vibrating playhouse for music enthusiasts. The whole family can enjoy an interactive and absorbing narrative of Norwegian popular music from the 1950s up to the present day. Pretend you are playing in a band, find the dance rhythm between the lights and cubes and explore the “secret” places that are full of surprises.

Incredible Sverresborg Sverresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum is one of the country’s largest cultural history museums. Its location “on top of the city” provides a great setting for an eventful day outside. The museum is based around castle mountain, the ruins of King Sverre’s medieval castle. The rest of the museum is spread among many historic buildings. Young and old alike visitors alike can greet the animals who live at the open-air museum, go on a walk in the fairytale forest or explore the old town and farmyards.

Røros museum Røros Museum opens the door to the mining history and the UNESCO World Heritage site known as Røros Mining Town and the Circumference. On a guided walking tour, you will learn more about the history of the mining town – and perhaps you will dare to enter the dark mine. Up at Lake Doktortjønna, you will return to the daylight and discover many outdoor recreational activities for young and old alike.

Go canoeing on the lake and see if the fish are biting.

Photos (fromleft): Trondheim Art Museum (Studio Prud) | Sverresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum (Studio Prud) Orkla Industrial Museum (Orkla Industrial Museum) | Trondheim Maritime Museum (Studio Prud) 50

OUR MUSEUMS Sverresborg Trøndelag Folk Museum is one of the country’s largest open-air cultural history museums. The museum is placed around the ruins of King Sverre’s medieval castle.

The Norwegian Museum of the Deaf is a cultural meeting place between deaf and hearing people with focus on communication and understanding.

Orkla Industrial Museum is based on 333 years of mining operations at Løkken Verk. A diverse history is conveyed by visits to the Gammelgruva (old mine), Steinparken, the Thamshavn railway and exhibitions.

Røros Museum conveys the mining history, building preservation, South Sami cultural history and the World Heritage site known as Røros Mining Town and the Circumference. You can visit Olav’s Mine, Smelthytta, Doktortjønna lake, Sleggveien (Slag road) and the Femundsmarka National Park Visitor Centre.

Rockheim – Norway’s national museum of popular music shows Norwegian popular music from the 1950s up to the present day.

Ringve Music Museum – Norway’s national museum of music and musical instruments – features a large international collection of more than 2,000 historical musical instruments.

Trondheim Art Museum exhibits works from its comprehensive collection of Norwegian and international art and contemporary exhibitions.

Nordenfjeldske National Museum of Decorative Arts and Design is responsible for collecting, managing and conveying decorative arts and design.

Kystens Arv Coastal Heritage Museum has a traditional boat building yard, historic rose garden, restaurant with outdoor dining area and one of the country’s largest collections of traditional Norwegian wooden boats.

The Coastal Museum of Sør-Trøndelag conveys more modern coastal culture with a special focus on the history of Norwegian aquaculture.

Trondheim Maritime Museum conveys the maritime history of Trondheim and the surrounding area.

Rindal Ski Museum conveys the ski making traditions for which Rindal is renowned. The open-air museum has a total of 15 historic buildings, including a traditional Trøndelag farmhouse, smithy, threshing barn, crofter’s farm and mill.

Read more at www.mist.no/vare-museer 51

ON TRACK TO SPECIAL TIME

The old tram in Trondheim (Tom Gustavsen) 52

Namdalen

Sula/Halten

Travel green throughout Trøndelag – from Røros in the south to Namdalen in the north.

For more information, visit atb.no.

Plan your trip with the app AtB Reise.

TRONDHEIM

Engasjertbyra.no - Foto: Marius Rua

Røros

Clean travel. Clean conscience.

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FLOCK LIFE

When the first Norwegians came to Trøndelag in search of food, they found life in the sea, fjords, lakes, forests and mountains.

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A flock of sheep is grazing on a hilly headland on the coast of Trøndelag. The lambing season has just finished and a few dozen small, grey lambs have joined the flock of wild sheep. They stay close to their mothers and bask in the sun as they get some food.

A huge golden eagle watches on from a rocky outpost just a stone’s throw away from the flock. The king of the air sails toward the flock and hones in on the nearest lamb. It hangs there, floating on the air currents just a few metres above the defenceless animal. It assesses the size and weight, decides and soars towards the next lamb, before pausing to reconsider.

“That freaked me out,” says the wild sheep farmer Eskil Sandvik from Frøya. He saw the entire chase unfold.

“My stomach dropped. This was a young eagle. There are two types; they are either sceptical or a daring buffoon. A buffoon can go berserk among the young lambs and eradicate an entire litter within a short time, without getting any food. Consequently, it’s hard to keep one’s cool and not try to chase the eagle away.

Nature will also take its course,” says Sandvik.

lambs. If the ewes feel threatened, they are willing to leave their lambs to fend for themselves,” explains Sandvik.

He explains how the wild sheep help to maintain the natural vegetation on the relatively treeless island. “The Sitka spruce that grows here was introduced, and the tree planting has threatened to displace the original vegetation. The flocks of sheep help to battle the spruce trees by eating the budding trees and allowing the island to preserve its the unique bare and windswept landscape.”

Sandvik is not alone in letting nature take its course, as Norwegians have done for thousands of years. No less than 3,800 wild sheep graze on the rugged island of Frøya on the coast of Trøndelag, summer and winter.

These reclusive sheep are of an ancient lineage, which has survived world wars and industrial agriculture.

Sandvik guides us across the overgrazed pasture on the way to one of his flocks.

As we approach the sheep, we soon realise that these are not ordinary clads of wool.

“If we walk with the wind behind us, we won’t get close to them,” explains the sheep farmer. “They will run away.” Sheep can certainly run. Even without getting wind of people, the flock keeps its distance.

The sheep run around us, before stopping to glance in our direction and then running past us at full speed.

The photographer also moves quickly, as the term photo chase takes on a new meaning. “Wild sheep prefer to be left alone in peace. If we interfere with them, they are unable to eat, give birth and feed their

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“If we walk with the wind behind us, we won’t get close to them.”

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“We have a legacy that cannot be described or taken from us, even though throughout history many have tried.”

Sandvik and the locals of Frøya are but a few of the many Norwegians who live right beside their pantry.

Proximity to the cycle of nature and a respect for the food has been passed down through generations and has become part of these farmers’ soul. In a country where just five or six per cent of the landscape is suitable for cultivation, it goes without saying that those who have survived here never give up and can exploit the natural resources to their fullest. The combination of stubbornness and moderation has become a part of the Norwegian national soul, just as the image of small farms on mountainsides has become the symbol of the nation. In places like Frøya, small-scale production, local produce and traditional food is more than a trend.

“We have traced records from relatives right back to the oldest church register for Røros, dating from 1540,” says Eva Nordfjell. Eva is a Sami reindeer herder, with her own processing facility in Røros. “But my relatives have lived off reindeer since time immemorial,” she says.

Archaeological finds show that the Sami have lived in Norway for 2000-2500 years. The earliest written records of the people were made in 98 A.D. by the Roman historian Tacitus. The Sami originally hunted

reindeer, and it was not until the 17th century that they began to tame large herds and follow them many hundreds of kilometres from summer pastures to winter pastures then back again. They practiced a semi-nomadic existence, moving their place of residence when the food source moved. Today, most of the Sami live in the same houses year-round and use modern means of transport to herd their reindeer.

“We have a legacy that cannot be described or taken from us,” says Eva Nordfjell.

As with all traditional production of food, the ancient methods of preserving and storing food have played an important role in the Sami culture. Drying, salting, curing and smoking of meat all take place in the production and retail building of Nordfjell’s company, Rørosrein. People come here from afar to buy fresh and preserved reindeer meat.

The concept of eating reindeer meat is quite natural to most Norwegians, but can often pose challenges for Americans. The key word is “Rudolf”. “Reindeer are not for decoration, but for food. People get an a-ha experience when they realize they can eat something they have a close relationship with – that we ‘know’ the food.”

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SUPPLEMENTING ONE’S INCOME

On the other hand, Americans love reindeer. Eva was once visited by a top general from across the Atlantic. He was accompanied by a large entourage including security guards. He was extremely keen to experience reindeer up close, and changed the official itinerary for his visit to Norway so he could travel to Røros. Eva harnessed the reindeer to the sled, and took him on a sled ride from right outside the gamma (turf hut) set up to receive visitors. Midway into the trip, a cross-country skier approached at full speed in the adjacent ski trail. “This frightened the buck, who raced up to the icy ski trail at a wild pace! I thought to myself ‘This won’t go well and I will end up being sued’. The buck suddenly stopped and turned around.

The herd instinct kicked in and he wanted to return to the herd. He raced straight back towards the herd at 50 kilometres per hour and crashed straight into the gate, causing the general to fly off the sled,” says Eva. But the general shone like a star and described it as a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Instead of being sued, Eva received a hand-written thank you card from the general in the post.

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Like many others who live by animal husbandry, Eva cannot support herself solely by selling food. Most people buy affordable food at the supermarket. This explains why Eva supplements her income by offering Sami cultural experiences.

It’s worth noting that “domesticated reindeer” are not particularly tame. Each autumn the reindeer are domesticated, but as soon as they return to their summer pastures their natural instincts take over and the reindeer become wild again.

“Building trust takes time and patience, so we take our coffee down to the enclosure and sit there with the reindeer who are about to be domesticated,” says Eva. Although she is the first to admit that her chosen occupation requires work from morning to night all year round, she says the lifestyle is worth the toil.

“We can convey the experience of the sounds of nature, the sound of the hooves in the snow the calm – and almost wild – animal; the tranquillity of nature.”

Photos (from left): Eva Nordfjell | Domesticated reindeer Dried reindeer heart | Photo (p. 54-59): Jarle Hagen

CULINARY KINGDOM

It’s no exaggeration to say that a region right in the heart of Norway was extremely fortunate when Mother Nature allocated her resources. This region stretches from mild, humid coastal landscapes to cold, dry plateaus and mountains. There is something extremely special about the soil, climate and sea currents, not to mention the long, bright summer nights.

Throughout history, people have cultivated, gathered and learned what the soil and the sea will provide.

This region offers perhaps the world’s best locations for Norway lobster, crabs, scallops and blue mussels.

The fish and seafood harvested here is exported worldwide. Specialties from the land include free-range pork and pigs fed on a diet of mushrooms, chicken, wild sheep and organic beef. Don’t forget the vegetables, berries and game, and everything else you can imagine from the sea to the mountains.

You will discover world-class produce and proud food traditions here, with more than 200 producers of food and beverage specialties alongside processing on a larger scale. Trøndelag is referred to as Norway’s leading food region, not least as a pioneering region for organic milk and meat. Chefs and restaurants are proud of the local produce and use it in new ways.

Trøndelag boasts several world-class chefs and restaurants (see page 63). For visitors with a curious palate, Trøndelag will offer one highlight after the other.

Focus on food Visitors to the region will soon see that food plays an important role for many in Trøndelag. You will discover a multitude of culinary experiences – at restaurants and cafés, farm shops and accommodation providers. Culinary experiences often add that little extra to the journey, and put Trøndelag in a different class from other destinations. Whether you go on a local food safari in Røros, rent a bike and ride from one farm-food outlet to another on The Golden Road (Den Gyldne Omvei), stay overnight in a lighthouse with a picnic basket, attend the cod festival or go crab fishing – a whole host of culinary experiences await you in Trøndelag.

Photos (from left): Trøndelag Food Festival - Grindal Ysteri (Wil Lee-Wright) | Mussels (Sverre Hjørnevik) Trøndelag Food festival - Mosbøen Gård (Wil Lee-Wright) | Sea urchins (Jarle Hagen) 60

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FOOD IN TRØNDELAG

Trøndelag has more than 200 local producers of food and beverage specialties.

The Trøndelag Food Festival and Brewery Festival in Trondheim on 30. July -1. August 2020 is the highlight of the year, with over 150 exhibitors and around 200,000 visitors.

Craft brewing is extremely strong with more than 30 breweries.

The Farmers’ Market Trøndelag is the largest in Norway (based on turnover).

Trøndelag accounts for about 80 per cent of Norway’s scallop exports.

The world’s best areas for Norway lobsters, crabs, scallops and blue mussels can be found here.

Grøntvedt Pelagic in Ørland ferments more than 90 per cent of all the herring consumed in Scandinavia.

Røros and Rørosmat are among the country’s strongest brands when it comes to local food.

Trøndelag is a leading region for organic milk and meat, accounting for 27 per cent of the organic farmland in Norway and 37 per cent of the country’s organic dairy cattle.

Norwegian Salmon is internationally renowned for its high quality. Six of the 10 largest aquaculture municipalities in Norway are in Trøndelag.

Trøndelag accounts for about 25% of Norway's agricultural production.

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PLATE TALK

Photo previously published in the food magazine NORD

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T H E C R A F T B R E W E R S H AV E A R R I V E D

There is no shortage of good produce and local products in Trøndelag. The food producers work closely with Trøndelag’s restaurant and hotels, and many of the best meals in Norway are served in Trøndelag.

In Trondheim, you will find two restaurants that have been awarded Michelin stars – Credo and Fagn – as well quality restaurants like To Rom og Kjøkken, Bula Bistro, NordØst and Røst Teaterbistro, to name but a few. A visit to any of these will virtually guarantee an experience for the taste buds, even for the most discerning diners. The reopening of the Britannia Hotel in 2019 added gilt-edged elegance with six first-rate food and drink concepts.

The trend of craft beer has long since reached Trøndelag.

You can enjoy quality beers from more than 30 local brewers on tap or by the bottle. Those that stand out from the pack include Klostergården on the island of Tautra and Austmann in Trondheim, Munkebyøl in Levanger, Røros Bryggeri og Mineralvannfabrikk (pictured above) and Stjørdalsbryggeriet. The latter is famous for preserving the Viking tradition of brewing beer in smoked malt.

Trondheim pubs that serves beer brewed on site: The pioneer Mikrobryggeriet, EC Dahls Bryggeri and newcomer ØX Tap Room in the basement of the restaurant Frati on the main square.

Photos (from left): Soup from Røst (Jarle Hagen) Craft beer from Røros Bryggeri og Mineralvannfabrikk (Tom Gustavsen)

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R ES T A U R A N T S IN T R Ø N D ELA G C R ED O Serves multi-course menus based on the best local produce from Trøndelag. Michelin restaurant. www. re st a u ra nt c re d o . n o FAG N Inspiration menu and fine dining on the ground floor, and restaurant and cocktail bar upstairs. Michelin restaurant. www. f a g n . n o BR I TA N N I A A food and wine house in a class of its own with six different food and drink concepts. www. b ri t a n n i a . n o FOL K OG FE Serves tasty and rustic bistro meals based on local produce. www. f o lko g f e - b i st ro . n o RØ S T T EAT ER BI S T RO Serves set menus designed with your experience in mind and with respect for the produce and producers. www. ro st b i st ro . n o TO ROM OG K J Ø K K EN A wealth of quality produce from Trøndelag prepared with inspiration from the Mediterranean. www.t o ro m o g k j o k ke n . n o A N S N ES BRYG G ER An exciting menu based on the best seasonal produce. www. a n sn e sb r y g g e r. c o m BU L A N EOBI S T RO Boundless, playful and vibrant culinary experiences in an urban and inspiring environment www.bulabistro.no EXP ER I EN C E A 14-course tasting menu served in an old barn transformed into a rustic restaurant and bar www.t a st e - e x p e ri e n c e . n o S TOK KØYA S T R A N D H OT EL L Distinctive restaurant serving first-rate meals, especially seafood and shellfish. www. st o k ko y. n o V ER T S H U S ET RØ ROS Gourmet restaurant and brewery in historic surroundings. www.ve rt sh u se t ro ro s. n o ØY N A Serves local food accompanied by panoramic views of the Trondheimsfjord. www. o y n a . n o

Photos (from left): Berkel og Bar (Marius Rua) | Øyna (Marius Rua) Fagn (Marius Rua) | Credo (Geir Mogen) 65

THE GOLDEN DRINK We are greeted at the Inderøy farm, Berg Gård, by Svein Berfjord, a sturdy chap with a special interest in traditional food and drink. He shows us around the farm, where his family has long raised lambs and freerange pigs, produced cured meats and honey and much more. He shows us the farm shop where they sell their products. The next stop is the on-site restaurant serving food produced on the farm. He then takes us into the darkness, to the distillery and maturation room, where we taste self-produced aquavit and distillates of rowanberries and spruce shoots.

“We have produced caraway here since 2001, virtually all of which is sold for aquavit production. Back in 2003 we had the idea of producing our own aquavit.

We produce all the food we serve on the farm, but did not have our own spirit. Since the production of

aquavit and caraway has strong traditions in Inderøy, we thought it was time to put back on Inderøy back on the aquavit map,” says Berfjord.

Inderøy Brenneri (distillery) was founded in 2015, aquavit formulas tested and spirits were produced.

Consequently, Inderøy Brenneri (distillery) was founded in 2015, aquavit formulas were tested, and spirits were produced. After achieving success with their “Inderøy Aquavit No. 1” and “Inderøy Taffel Aquavit”, Berfjord sat a new goal: He wanted to develop a ‘pure’ Inderøy aquavit, flavoured exclusively by herbs and spices from Inderøy – the world’s first 100 per cent Norwegian aquavit. Den Gyldne Akevitt (The Golden Aquavit) was a success and he has already won several prizes with it.

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A F E W FA C T S A B O U T A Q U AV I T

Aquavit has been a traditional spirit in Trøndelag for MEL L Oearliest M O V Ewritten R S K R Iaccount FT centuries.

The of aquavit dates from 1531, and describes an aquavit sent from Bergen to Norway’s last archbishop, Olav Engelbrektsson, at Steinvikholm Castle near Stjørdal.

Aquavit’s distinctive flavour comes from herbs and spices added after being distilled from potatoes or grain. The main spice is always caraway, while other spices include anise, star anise, dill, fennel, cardamom, vanilla, coriander and lemon peel.

For an aquavit to be called Norwegian aquavit, it must be matured in oak barrels for at least six months.

Linie aquavit is named after the tradition of sending oak barrels of aquavit by ship to Australia, crossing the equator (“linie”) twice before being bottled.

Photos p. 66-67: Inderøy aquavit | Svein Berfjord Above: Aquavit barrel | Below: Aquavit ship | Right: The distillery (Photo: Jarle Hagen)

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FO OD REGION FOOD H AL L S / F O O D SAL ES O U T LET S 1

R AVNKLOA F IS K E HALL Trondheims traditional fish market, with a wide range of fresh seafood. www.ravnkl o a. n o

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FAR ME R S M ARK E T Buy food directly from the farmer. www.bon de ns m ar ke d. n o

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S M A K OG BEH AG OP P DA L Traditional tastes with a new twist. www. o p p d a lsm at . n o

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C H EF M AT H A L L S T EI N K J ER The focus is on great culinary experiences. www. m at ri ke t m i d t . n o

H I T R A G Å R D S M AT Cheese factory and farm shop with gourmet meat and award-winning cheeses. www. h i t ra g a rd sm at . n o

FARM SH O PS 5

L ANGØR A CO F F E E ROAS TE RY Coffee Roastrey and farm shop in Stjørdal. www.l an go r a. n o

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THE GOLDE N ROAD ( DE N GYLDNE O MV EI ) Farm shops in a beautiful cultural landscape in Innherred. www.dg o . no

1 0 OR K L A DA L Y S T ER I Cheese factory and farm shop with award-winning cheeses. www. o rk la d a ly st e ri . n o

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GAL ÅVO LDE N GÅRD Farm food from Røros. www.g alaav o l de n . no

1 1 K LOS T ERG Å R D EN Farm shop with wide selection in beautiful surroundings at Tautra. www. k lo st e rg a rd e nt a u t ra . n o

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KALSA GÅRDS B AK E RI Farm bakery with character. www.k als a. n o

12 VA L BERG S L EK T S G Å R D Self-service shop selling seasonal vegetables. www.vi si t v a lb e rg . n o

BE E R AND BR E W E RI E S 13 AUSTMANN www.a ustm ann. no

21 BRYG G ER I ET FRØYA www. b r y g g e ri e t f ro y a . n o

14 E .C . DAHLS B RYGGE RI www.ec d ah l s . n o

22 ØX TA P ROOM www. ox t a p . n o

15 GUL ATI N G Ø LUTS ALG www.g ulatin g. n e t

2 3 S K J EN K ES TOVA www. sko ro va sm at . n o / sk j e n ke st o va

16 TRONDHJE M M IK RO B RYGGE RI www.tmb . n o

24 ROD EBA K G Å R D S BRYG G ER I www. m at ri ke t m i d t . n o

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HOGNA B RYGG www.hognab r ygg. no

25 R EI N S K LOS T ER www. re i n sk lo st e r. n o

18 I NDE RØY GÅRDS B RYGGE RI www.i g b . no

26 RØ ROS BRYG G ER I OG M I N ER A LVA N N FA BR I KK www. ro ro sb r y g g e ri . n o

19 KLOSTE RGÅRDE N HÅNDB RYGGE RI www.k l o s te r gar de ntau tr a. n o

2 7 S K A N C K EBUA www. b e rg st a d e n sh ot e l. n o

20 STOLT BRYGGE RI www.stoltb r y gge r i. no

28 BER K EL & BA R www.v e rt sh u se t . n o

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THE INNER LIFE CULTURAL HERITAGE, NATURE AND FOOD IN INNHERRED Rolling pastures and fields surrounded by gently rounded hills and mountains. The interior of Trøndelag is often compared with the Trønder himself: friendly, welcoming and at times dramatic.

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“No, these are the best mountains in the north, perhaps in the entire country. They are huge, they are rich, there are fjords and landscape in the most delightful interaction.”

(Aasmund O. Vinje following his visit to Inderøy in 1860.)

The area Vinje visited is on the shores of the Trondheimsfjord, with fertile soil and a favourable climate.

The farmers cultivate and nurture the soil, as they have done for more than 1,000 years. Innherred’s beautiful cultural landscapes warmly welcome you to sweeping views of the rolling cornfields, world-class culinary experiences and an opportunity to relive the Viking Age. The distances between fjord and mountain, town and wilderness are short. The area is popular for cycling, hiking, canoeing, kayaking and fishing – and perfect for anyone who wants to explore deep caves and forests.

S H O R T C U T T O G R E AT TA S T E S

With its proximity to wonderful produce, The Golden Road (Den Gyldne Omvei) in Inderøy is a popular destination for visitors from near and far. This picturesque detour from the E6 highway will top up all your senses. Along the route through golden corn fields, recognized farm-based producers offer produce such as free-range pork, lamb, award-winning cheeses and locally brewed beer, as well as an abundance of fresh vegetables.

You will also discover jams, cured meats, meat products, bread, cakes and much more. You can also buy something to quench your thirst, such as kombucha (fermented tea), craft beer and Inderøy aquavit based on local production of caraway and other herbs. Several of the farms on this route have on-site restaurants and cafés serving the food they have produced with a combination of tender love and care and knowledge.

This route also features a range of art and crafts, and art enthusiasts should visit the Nils Aas Kunstverksted (art studio) in the village of Straumen.

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THE SAINT KING

Many a significant event in Norwegian history has occurred in Innherred. The best known is obviously the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030, which claimed the life of King Olav the Holy. The battle is re-enacted every year in The Saint Olav Drama (Spelet om Heilag Olav) during The Saint Olav Festival (Olsokdagene). The Egge Museum conveys the history of the chieftains and some of Olav Haraldsson’s worst rivals, while the monks of Munkeby represent the ensuing religious transition. The history is kept alive. Like elsewhere in Trøndelag, Stiklestad offers wonderful culinary experiences in a historic landscape.

If you are seeking an exciting inner and outer journey, you can go on a pilgrimage on the St. Olav Path from Selånger in Sweden to the

Photos | p.72-75: Husfrua Farm in Inderøy (Jarle Hagen) From left: The Saint Olav drama (Espen Storhaug ) Follaheia Hiking (Visit Innherred) | Local Food (Lena Johnsen)

Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. Along the route, you will find local food and lodgings in historic surroundings.

SIECE THE MOMENT – FIND YOUR INNER PIECE

During the 40-minute drive on the E6 from Levanger, known as the town of wooden architecture, to the postwar reconstruction town of Steinkjer, there are many options for exciting detours. Visit lake Leksdalsvatnet with its rich birdlife, the charming village of Viosen on the shores of lake Snåsavatnet and the mining communities of Malm and Follafoss by the Beitstadfjord.

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T R AV E L T I P S Stiklestad – the cradle of Norwegian history. Pay a visit to the site of the battle in 1030 and learn why the battle took place specifically here.

The Falstad Centre – Formerly a World War II prison camp, reformative school and state school, now a national centre for human rights and a poignant museum. New digital reconstruction of the site’s wartime history.

The Golden Road (Den Gyldne Omvei) – Take this charming detour off the E6 and visit distinguished local food and beverage producers, Nils Aas’ Art Studio and choose between accommodation options with character.

Saemien Sijte – South Sami Museum and Cultural Centre –Immerse yourself in the rich South Sami history and culture in Innherred. Visit Bøla and see our most famous rock art like the Bøla reindeer, and Saemien Sijte where you can learn about the South Sami culture and language.

The wood house village Levanger – protected and charming wooden house area in Levanger, with small shops, galleries and restaurants.

Paddling on Lake Snåsavatnet – Several marked paddling routes, paddle from one accommodation provider to another on Lake Snåsavatnet.

Visit a summer mountain farm – From June to August, you can choose between 20 or more open summer mountain farms in the municipality of Snåsa.

World’s largest garden chair – Follow the well-marked path to the top of the hill overlooking Steinkjer to experience the world’s largest garden chair and enjoy great views of the town and fjord.

Blåfjella – Skjækerfjella National Park – one of Southern Norway’s largest continuous wilderness areas. Gateways in Verdal, Steinkjer and Snåsa.

Bike round the Borgenfjord – Cycle from one experience to another along the Golden Road. Rent an e-bike at the tourist office.

Festivals – The Steinkjer Festival in June, The St Olav Drama in July and the Hilmar Festival in November, The Children’s Viking Festival at Egge in July 2021.

Read more at www.visitinnherred.com 75

Accommodation with a view in the middle of the cultural landscape! Øyna cultural landscape hotel opens in the spring of 2020.

We can offer accommodation in modern rooms in beautiful surroundings integrated into the landscape on the Inderøy peninsula.

THE EYE S EES. THE T AS T E IS EX PERIENCED. Øyna, situated along The Golden Road, offers social activities and wonderful culinary experiences based on local produce from the 10 municipalities you can see from Øyna – at the very top! Open for group bookings from January 2020!

Logo med og uten undertekst

+47 915 90 813 | post@oyna.no | oyna.no

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“ A d e t our can gi ve yo u th e v e ry b e st i n l i fe …”

(DEN GYLDNE OMVEI)

TH E G O LDEN ROAD INDERØY

Art, crafts, accommodation, dining, attractions, cycling, hiking, shopping, marine life and fjord fishing

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Reindeer in SnĂĽsa (Olgeir Haug) 78

CRACKLING ATMOSPHERE

The frost mist seeps through the air and dissolves to the sound of leather soles creaking against the hard snow.

A lasso takes aim and then surrounds a set of frisky reindeer antlers. The eternal battle between man and animal is underway again.

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“Although many have a relationship with Rudolf, reindeer are not for decoration.�

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Having reindeer as their livelihood has developed and shaped humans for thousands of years. For the Southern Sami in Røros, Snåsa and Røyrvik, the year involves cycles. The reindeer are moved from one pasture to another, herded and eventually slaughtered to create food, tools and clothes. That was the case 3,000 years ago, before thoughts of lifestyle choices evolved, and it’s still the case today.

“My relatives have lived off reindeer since time immemorial,” says Eva Nordfjell from Røros.

Eva comes from a Southern Sami family. She and her husband run Rørosrein. In addition to living off reindeer husbandry, they offer visitors a glimpse into life as a Southern Sami.

“Although many have a relationship with Rudolf, reindeer are not for decoration. They are primarily for food, which we have learned to live with to survive,” says Eva. They sell processed products of reindeer in their farm shop, while in their gamme (turf hut) they offer unique experiences combining storytelling and food.

The focus is on reindeer husbandry and the Sami culture – or more specifically the Southern Sami culture. It’s fascinating to hear first-hand about a lifestyle that on the one hand is so rooted in history, but on the other hand is so vibrant. The leather soles may have been replaced by thermo boots, but the annual cycle remains largely unchanged.

Photos (from left): Eva Nordfjell from Rørosrein Old houses near Slegghaugan in Røros (Jarle Hagen)

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ALL THAT GLITTERS IS NOT GOLD

The year is 1644. The farmer’s son Hans Aasen from Härjedalen, which at the time was part of Norway, owned neither land nor property and was on his way to Trondheim to seek work. He had reached Brekken when he encountered a herd of reindeer. Driven by hunger, he shot one of the reindeer. In its death struggle, the reindeer kicked the moss to uncover what turned out to be copper ore. There were huge deposits of the ore. Within a short time, large-scale mining operations were underway and there was a huge demand for labour.

The mining town of Røros grew slowly but surely and for the next 333 years mining was the lifeblood of the people of Røros.

Just as nature formed the basis for the Sami and reindeer husbandry, it also lay the foundation for establishing a town in the wilderness, high up in the mountains.

The most characteristic feature of Røros today is the more than 100 listed wooden houses. Most of them were built in the 18th and 19th centuries by miners with limited funds, whose aim was as much functionality in the least possible space. Domesticated animals were a natural part of everyday life, so many of the houses have backyards and some even have stables. The houses are now home to cafés, galleries and shops selling local quality food, art and crafts. A few families still live in the old houses, which is reminiscent of times gone by. The place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List is today taken for granted, but a pulse is beating under the skin than can make Røros the envy of many a larger place.

The business community and tourism sector in Røros have paved the way for sustainable tourism, which has brought international recognition to the small town.

Those working here have completed courses in local history and world heritage, so most people you meet can “guide” you through your visit to Røros.

RØROS VIBRANT C U LT U R A L H E R I TA G E

The history of the Røros region is unique in terms of world heritage. Being inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List special from both a national and international perspective.

Røros celebrates its anniversary in 2020! This year marks 40 years since Røros gained World Heritage status for the mining town and 10 years since it gained the same status for the Circumference.

Authentic, generous and active describe Røros in a nutshell. The Røros region is diversity, unique and authentic. This includes vibrant world and cultural heritage. It is a region that is largely based on an historic industrial community and has evolved into a pulsating region with modern industry and business in perfect union with history in every wall, tradition and trend.

Between old wooden walls, steep streets and with slag heaps and the landmark Røros church Bergstadens Ziir as a backdrop, you will discover small niche shops, cafés that have been gathering places for generations

and backyards where time stands still, while the people proudly share their lives and traditions.

Røros is world history – compact and natural, with nature-based experiences to suit everyone. You can go dog sledding, alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, fishing, paddling, cycling and many other activities.

Experience Røros is at its most magical when the evocative Blue Hour drifts over the mountain landscape.

Røros is experiences, activities and culture. Røros is tradition, pride and outdoors. Røros must be experienced.

This is where stories are created.

Photos from left: Sleigh ride | Kick-sled (Thomas Rasmus Skaug) Local food served at Vauldalen Fjellhotell (Lise Bjelland) 82

DID YOU KNOW? The UNESCO World Heritage status means that Røros is one of the sites selected worldwide for the conservation of natural and cultural heritage. These sites are selected due to the significance of their cultural or natural heritage for humanity.

The Røros region stretches from Nord-Østerdalen in Hedmark County to the south of Trøndelag and eastwards towards Sweden.

The Røros region is full of events year-round, including the Femund sled dog race, the Røros Winter Fair (Rørosmartnan), Norwegian Cured Meats Festival (Spekematfestival), the historical play Elden and Olsok in Tolga. You can experience real Christmas atmosphere at the Christmas market at Røros.

Røros has among the largest number of preserved wooden houses in Norway. Downtown Røros features more than a hundred listed wooden houses.

Local food is strong in this region. You can join various tours such as a local food safari or visit a summer mountain farm or various local food producers.

The Aukrust Centre conveys the legacy of Kjell Aukrust, who would have turned 100 in 2020.

You can see the majestic mountain Tronfjell (1,666 m above sea level) from virtually anywhere in the region and you can even drive right up to the summit!

Nature-based experiences await at both Femundsmarka and Forollhogna national parks.

The Sami heritage has left its mark on the Røros region, where Sami people Sami still live by reindeer husbandry.

At Rørosrein you experience authentic Sami experiences.

If you want to pack nearly everything mentioned above into one action-packed adventure, try Femund4All!

For more info visit: roros.no

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WINTER AIR FOR EVERYONE Some of the best winter experiences occur on the beaten path.

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A lead dog with its tongue hanging out of the corner of its mouth, a panting sound, trees and an everchanging hilly terrain; there are many impressions to take in during a dog sledding trip. The dogs know where to go and, if you dare to trust them, you will have a nature-based adventure that is out of the ordinary.

You your senses will have undisturbed interaction with the surroundings. If you prefer more speed, several places offer snowmobile safaris. The fresh air blowing in your face and the need to constantly cooperate with the snow conditions and terrain mean the nature-based adventure soon becomes more important than reaching your destination quickly.

SKIING PARADISE

When the snow settles, ski enthusiasts converge on Oppdal. The ski resort is one of the country’s indisputable best, offering downhill slopes to satisfy most, a fun park for snowboarders and – if you are lucky with the weather and timing – powder snow. Just beyond the ski lift area, you will find cross-country ski

trails and pristine mountainsides to complement one other. With more than 80 km of ski trails to choose between, the silence may only be broken by the sound of your pole hitting the ground. The Dovrefjell and Trollheimen mountain ranges both have an abundance of rivers and lakes full of fish, and many choose to combine their ski trek with ice fishing.

URBAN OUTDOOR RECREATION

The Bymarka outdoor recreation area near downtown Trondheim is criss-crossed by hiking paths, which in winter transform into a fantastic network of cross-country ski trails. Having an 80 km² nature reserve just a 15-minute tram ride from the city centre is quite unique and something that the locals know how to take full advantage of. You can buy a hot drink and snack at several serviced cabins throughout the reserve, the best known of which is the popular Skistua. With more than 120 km of prepared ski trails to choose between, you can experience a new one on each ski trip throughout the winter.

Photos (from left): Dog sledding in Røros (Terje Rakke) | Ice fishing (Bernartwood) Reindeer sledding in Røros (Tom Gustavsen/Røros Hotell)

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Musk oxen in the Dovrefjell Mountains (Sigbjørn Frengen / Oppdal Safari) 86

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WELCOME TO T H E M O U N TA I N S !

In comparison with the geological era, human time pales into insignificance.

Most things are put into perspective by the majestic mountains and vast plateaus.

There is rarely enough time. We become impatient and fill up our holidays and days off. We have so much to do. Although time does not stand still in Oppdal and Rennebu either, you can really appreciate the human impermanence in the face of the slow passage of time. Every moment counts.

The majestic Dovrefjell mountains The 40,000 or so sheep that graze in the mountain areas every year do a very good job of maintaining the network of hiking trails. Snøhetta is the highest mountain in the Dovrefjell range, and each summer several thousand hikers conquer the highest summit, Stortoppen (2286 m above sea level). A short walk from the E6 highway will bring you to perhaps the world’s most elaborate heated shelter, the Viewpoint Snøhetta. This award-winning building offers panoramic views of the magical mountain and, if you are lucky, you will spot the King of Dovre – the musk ox.

The home of the trolls The Trollheimen mountain range is full of “friendly” peaks that rise to 1,800 m above sea level. The Trollheimen Triangle, which connects the cabins of Jøldalshytta, Trollheimshytta and Gjevilvasshytta, is one of Norway’s most popular hiking routes. It enables hikers of virtually every level to experience the magnificent and varied nature. A bonus in summer, you can take a break at the sandy beach of Rauøra in the Gjevilvassdalen valley. It’s an exotic place to have a refreshing swim before continuing your hike.

A natural stop It’s easy to stop in Oppdal for a day or three. Check out the range of shops only found in Oppdal and remember to taste the cinnamon rolls at the bakery Sprø!

Photos (from left): Viewpoint Snøhetta (Ketil Jacobsen) | Rafting and Ziplining over the river Driva (Opplev Oppdal) Cross-country skiing in Oppdal (Martin I. Dalen) 88

T R AV E L T I P S Rafting, canyoning and zipline You can do all this with experienced guides from Opplev Oppdal. They offer activities for families and those wanting an adrenalin rush. www.opplevoppdal.no Pulse year-round Take part in the popular Enern sports events in Oppdal, with races spanning skiing, cycling, vertical running and mountain marathon. Read more at enern.com Sheep farming galore. Oppdal is the country’s largest sheep farming municipality, which is celebrated during the Mountain and Mutton Festival (Fjell- og Fårikålfestivalen) in October. www.fjellogfaarikaalfestivalen.no The tram lines of the mountain With around 200 km of prepared cross-country ski trails in wonderful mountain terrain, you are assured of finding a ski trail nearby. www.skisporet.no Norway’s best ski area Oppdal’s ski lift area is legendary. If you are searching for a varied ski destination where you can combine off-piste skiing with racing down groomed trails, acrobatics in the terrain park and powder fun in the forest, then head to Oppdal. www.oppdalskisenter.no Musk Ox, the king of the Dovre mountain. Dovrefjell National Park is the only place in Norway, and among the few places in the world, where you can get a glimpse of the impressive Musk Ox in its natural habitat. Join our experienced guides. More information at oppdalsafari.no Off-piste skiing You will find everything from short ski treks to big adventures.

Ski down snow-covered mountainsides where you risk getting powder snow in your moustache. Don’t forget the expansive mountain plateaus, where you can glide on your mountain skis across Snøhetta or Kringlehøa.

Taste sensation. Food produced in Oppdal and Rennebu offers the taste of the mountain. Allow time for a gastronomic experience. Visit the Smak & Behag food hall or Bakeriet SPRØ, where Norway’s best bakers serve you delicious, freshly baked treats.

Read more at:

visitnorway.no/reisemal/trondelag/oppdal

OPPDAL

CHRISTMAS MARKETS Expectations are half the delight! The traditional Christmas markets in Trøndelag provide the opportunity to fill your present bag and discover the typical Norwegian Christmas spirit.

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December is the time for traditional Christmas markets throughout Trøndelag.

The largest Christmas market is in Trondheim: The city centre fills up with old-fashioned stalls, wonderful live music, a Farmers’ Market tent full of local food, a café tent serving refreshments and performances for the youngest visitors. Keen shoppers go from stall to stall as the relaxed Christmas spirit sinks in. The focus is not on liquorice and candyfloss, but rather handicrafts, baking and Christmas decorations made from old patterns and recipes. The Christmas market in Trondheim was rated by The Telegraph as one of the 16 best Christmas markets in Europe!

Røros is another place you will discover strong traditions surrounding the Christmas market. When the historic mining town is covered in snow and the narrow streets are filled with stalls, it’s hard not get into the Christmas spirit. The air is filled with the sound of pleasant conversation (often in a variety of languages) about the high-quality goods. The local church, Bergstadens Ziir, hosts a concert every evening, while the activity in the streets lasts well into the night.

Along The Golden Road (Den Gyldne Omvei) in Inderøy and at the Stiklestad National Culture Centre in Verdal, you will also find markets where you can enjoy the good, old-fashioned pre-Christmas spirit. After visiting Christmas markets in Trøndelag, you will return home with a much shorter present list, in the Christmas spirit and full of expectations.

Photos (from left): Christmas market at Røros (Thomas R. Skaug) | Christmas market in Trondheim (Fredrik Bye) | The Christmas market “Jul Igjen” at Stiklestad (Øyvind Malum)

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WINT E R EXP E RIEN CES IN TRØ N DEL AG AL PINE SK I RE SO R TS 1

VASSFJELLE T S K IS E NTE R www.va s s fje l l e t. no

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M ER Å K ER A L P I N S EN T ER www. m e ra ke ra lp i n se nt e r. c o m

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OPPDAL S K IS E NTE R www.op p dal s kis e nte r. no

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G RON G S K I S EN T ER www. g ro n g - sk i se nt e r. n o

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RØROS A LPINS E NTE R www.ror o s al p in s e nte r. no

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V I S I T BØ RG EFJ EL L www.vi si t b o rg e f j e ll. c o m

EXPE RI E NC E S / AC TI VI T IES 7

14 R EI N D EER S L ED D I N G Reindeer sledding in downtown Røros. www. ro ro sre i n . n o

ARC TI C TRAINING Wild Norway trains you for the challenging ski treks. www.wi l d- n o r w ay. c o m

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C URLI NG Try this sport on the slippery ice. www.op p dal . c o m

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Stay in a wooden lavvu in the park among predators. www. f a m i li e p a rke n . n o

I C E FI SHING

16 S N OW S H OEI N G Guided snowshoeing trek in wonderful terrain. www.v i si t i n n h e rre d . c o m

Read more about ice fishing in Trøndelag at www.tron de l ag. c o m 10 I C E C LI M B ING Oppdal is one of Norway’s top places for ice climbing. www.op p dal . c o m 11

P R EDATOR C A M P AT N A M S S KOG A N FA M I LY PA R K

17 M U S K OX S A FA R I Oppdal Safari www. m o sk u ssaf a ri . n o

HORSE-DRAWN S LE IGH RIDE S Explore Røros by horse-drawn sleigh. www.ror o s . no

Wild Norway www.wi ld - n o rway. c o m

12 DOG SLEDDING Norway Husky Adventure www.hus ky adv e ntu r e . n o

18 ACTIVE WINTER ADVENTURES WITH TUNDRA TOURS Ski expeditions, Arctic training, Winter camp, Snow caving and Snow kiting. www.t u n d rat o u rs. n o

Kennel Dølanvollen www.ken ne l dø l an v o l l e n. no 13 KI TI NG Several places in Trøndelag offer great conditions for kiting www.tro nde l ag. c o m

CHRIS TM AS MAR K E TS 19 TRONDHE IM CHRIS TM AS M ARK E T Pre-Christmas festival in the heart of Trondheim. www.j ule m ar ke de t- tr o ndh e im . no

21 “J U L I G J EN” C H R I S TM A S M A R K ET AT S T I KLESTAD Good old-fashioned Christmas spirit with Christmas preparations, experiences and market. www. st i k le st a d . n o

20 RØROS C HRIS TM AS M ARK E T Røros’ charming streets are filled with market stalls, Christmas food and pre-Christmas activities. www.j ule m ar ke dr o r o s . n o

22 P R E- C H R I S TM A S A LON G T H E G OL D EN ROAD Quality products, beautiful cultural landscape and Christmas spirit in every building. www. d g o . n o

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White-tailed sea eagle (Svein Wik) 94

GOLDEN LANDSCAPE

Some animals hunt prey and others graze.

Mountains, fjords, rivers and unobstructed views.

Some seek great photos and others a tasty meal.

Both will be rewarded with a successful chase.

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A bird with a huge wingspan flies down towards the surface at a tremendous speed and grabs its meal with razor-sharp claws. Four excited faces confirm the moment was captured on camera and in their memories.

An hour before the fish become eagle food, an alarm clock rings 10 minutes before the rooster crows.

That’s a necessity for Ole Martin. He wants his guests to experience an unrivalled closeness to wild animals and experience the way of nature up close and personal.

To achieve this, you must obey nature. If you are up early enough, the eagles offer a virtual guarantee: Ole Martin always find eagles.

Ole Martin Dahle, or the “Eagle man from Flatanger”, is one Trønder who is just as famous abroad as at home in Trøndelag – at least among nature photographers. Visits from Tokyo and Milan are treated in the same manner as visits from Trondheim and are almost as common.

Most people’s goal is to take great photos of the majestic white-tailed sea eagles that nest in the area.

But the Eagle man will gladly guide you to a host of other birds and animals, such as the black grouse, moose and squirrel.

If you are in Flatanger and spot a man in a boat with goatee beard and a seagull on his head, it’s almost certainly the Eagle man. After all, eagles are not the only ones he has a close relationship with.

“Charlie is my companion on virtually every tour,” says Ole Martin, showing us a photo of the herring gull Charlie, whose specialty is to sample food from Ole Martin’s cup. As soon as he enters the water, Charlie hovers in and settles on his hat – to the great amusement of avid photographers.

Main photo: Flatanger (Søderholm - Steen) Inset: The Eagle Man, Ole Martin Dahle (Wenche Anita L. Dahle)

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“Charlie is my companion on virtually every tour.”

The “Eagle man” Ole Martin Dahle

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Halvikhula, Northern Europe’s largest cave

Foto: Bernartwood 98

E N T E R I N G T H E C AV E

Eagles are not the only ones hanging high in Flatanger.

The Hanshelleren cave’s giant overhang protects the wall from the weather and allows rock climbing virtually year-round.

“The climbing route in the Hanshelleren cave is regarded as one of the toughest in the world,” says Magnus Midtbø, one of the world’s best climbers.

Hanshelleren was relatively unknown until recently and many were surprised to learn that this spectacular cave was in Trøndelag. Many are now adding this natural gem to their travel routes.

You will find another spectacular cave formation at Halvikhula in Osen (pictured). Although this cave is the largest in Northern Europe, it remains largely unknown to all but the locals.

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W I L D A N D TA M E

Trøndelag is home to nine protected areas; seven national parks and two nature reserves. From Børgefjell National Park in the north to Femundsmarka in the south, you will discover large natural areas filled with silence, great fishing, wildlife and rich flora. While encounters with reindeer and moose are relatively common, these areas are also home to animals few people get to experience, such as Arctic foxes and brown bears.

If you want a close-up experience with Norwegian animals, the Namsskogan Family Park is a destination worth noting. Experience Norway’s big four predators: brown bear, wolf, lynx and wolverine, as well as a wealth of other species large and small. You can join the daily guided tour at feeding time. The goats at the Children’s Farm always prove popular with the youngest visitors.

“Falling asleep to the sound of wolves snoring and waking up to wolves howling is an exotic experience”, says the park’s manager, Sarah Chirico-Wyss. She is referring to the “Predator Camp”, where you can stay in a wooden hut just outside the wolf enclosure.

In recent years, more hiking trails throughout Trøndelag have been marked so visitors can also find their way.

The most popular routes include the Trollheimen Triangle and Storsylen in Tydal, which both offer hikers and nature enthusiasts landscapes alternating between the steep and dramatic and the flat and calm.

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However, the most accessible walking route is the Gudbrandsdalen Path, a pilgrim route from Oslo to the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. Thousands of pilgrims walk this route every year; some motivated by spiritual reasons and others by the chance to experience nature and sensory impressions along the way.

Some people even walk all the way from the Christian pilgrimage site of Santiago de Compostela in Spain to Trondheim.

BIG FISH AND EAGLE ROBBERY

Leka in Namdalen was voted as Norway’s geological national monument. The island consists of distinctive yellow and red coloured serpentine rock that is otherwise only found on the American north coast. The theory is that the two areas were connected before the tectonic plates cracked and drifted apart.

Leka attracts deep-sea fishermen from near and far, like the islands of Hitra and Frøya further south on the coast of Trøndelag. Many come to Leka to fish for halibut, where the record catch was 1.9 m long and weighed 230 kg. Several halibut caught here were so big that tractors were needed to get them ashore.

Cycling, hiking, Solsemhula (a 40m-deep cave with Stone Age paintings) and the legends of Lekamøya and the “eagle robbery” also attract people to Leka.

“Falling asleep to the sound of wolves snoring and waking up to wolves howling is an exotic experience.”

Photos page 100-101: View of the Gjevilvatnet lake (Jarle Hagen) | Coffee brewing on the fire (Lilly Husbands) Page 102-103: The campsite at dusk (Jarle Hagen) | Kayaking (Lilly Husbands) | Fun by the water’s edge (Jarle Hagen)

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To this day salmon fishing remains an extremely popular activity, and several rivers in Trøndelag are still considered among the best in Norway. Increasingly more tourists are visiting Trøndelag to paddle canoes and kayaks, particularly in Femundsmarka south of Røros, which has many continuous rivers and lakes.

The river Nea, which flows into the Selbusjøen lake, is particularly popular among trout fishermen. You can combine a trip to the Nea with fishing in one or more of the 300 lakes in the Selbu area. This is a land of pure happiness for fishermen, but wilder rivers, including the Driva near Oppdal, have a reputation for extreme sports like rafting and canyoning.

FREEDOM ON TWO WHEELS

The temperature, wind and the smells will gain your attention as you glide through the countryside on two wheels. Exploring by bike gives you a completely different sensory impression than travelling by car, bus or train. With pedal power, you can stop whenever you wish to take in the beautiful view, a meadow full of spring flowers or wild berries. You will find plenty of marked cycling paths in the region, everything from city routes in Trondheim to paths through beautiful cultural landscapes in Inderøy or Fosen.

The latter relates to a two-and-a-half-yearold girl who was taken by an eagle and left in an eagle’s nest in the mountains. The incident took place nearly 80 years ago, and its authenticity is still the subject of debate among ornithologists and islanders.

SALMON ADVENTURES

Word of the wonderful rivers of Trøndelag first reached England about 150 years ago.

English lords with lots of money and few geographic restrictions travelled to Trøndelag to fish in rivers such as the Namsen, Gaula and Orkla. Some returned several times, paying good money to hire the best rowers. The number of lords who came to participate in this salmon fishing adventure grew in line with the favourable stories.

Gjevillvassdalen, Oppdal (Jarle Hagen) 104

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NAMDALEN OUTDOOR LIFE, FISHING AND TOGETHERNESS

Namdalen stretches from coastal landscapes to Norwegian highlands with rivers teeming with fish, picturesque mountain lakes and hunting terrain with an ecstasy guarantee.

The salmon river Namsen meanders through the mighty forests and mountains of Namdalen. It has long been renowned as one of the country’s best rivers for salmon fishing. English lords visited Namdalen as early as the 19th century to fish in the river. The Namsen and the nearby watercourses are known for an abundance of big salmon.

The Namdalen coast is the realm of thousands of islands and rich and varied fishing grounds. The winter skrei (migrating Atlantic cod) fishery has been extremely important for the region, which is celebrated at the annual Atlantic Cod Festival in Rørvik. Bring your bike and go island hopping along the coast.

Experience the coastal culture in the listed fishing village of Sør-Gjæslingan, the island of Nordøyan or at Coastal Museum in Rørvik. At Sør-Gjæslingan, you can enjoy peace and tranquillity, stay in a charming rorbu (fishermen’s cottage) and learn about life as it was at the time when the seasonal Lofoten fishery provided the main source of income for people along the Namdalen coast.

In the far north, the saga island of Leka breaks the surface of the sea with its characteristic yellow-red serpentine mountains. Leka is Norway’s national geological monument and is part of the Trollfjell UNESCO Global Geopark. You can bike, paddle and hike in exciting terrain. You can also fish from the shore or by boat. Some of the largest halibut in Norway have been caught on rods in the waters off Leka.

The three national parks – Børgefjell, Lierne and Blåfjella-Skjækerfjella – offer incredible naturebased experiences year-round. Børgefjell is the sanctuary of the Arctic fox and is one of Norway’s last wilderness areas. Lierne and Blåfjella-Skjækerfjella are national parks containing many cultural monuments, a varied birdlife and excellent hiking terrain. Go on an outdoor recreation adventure like hunting and freshwater fishing year-round and hiking or skiing. Outside the national parks, you will find marked cycling routes and mountain hikes.

Photos (from left): Storvatnet (Kristian F. Nesser) | Leka (Kristin Floa) | Salmonfishing (Jan Arild Landstad) 106

T R AV E L T I P S Sleep well in unique accommodation like treetop hut, rorbu (fishermen’s cottage), historic Trøndelag farmhouse or a sleeping car directly above the river Namsen.

Fish for salmon in the Namsen – the “Queen of Rivers”.

Several companies along the river offer packages combining accommodation, culinary experiences and access to exclusive salmon beats.

Go on a nature safari for unforgettable encounters with animals. In Namdalen you can experience an eagle safari in Flatanger, a bird watching and photo safari, beaver safari in Namsskogan and refreshing rafting trips.

Go shopping in the regional centre of Namsos, a vibrant town with many cultural events and an active business community. Head up the town mountain Klompen (114 m) for the best views of town.

Play and learn at Namsskogan Family Park, which is home to many Nordic animals and has its own climbing park, zipline and park train.

Bike around Leka – Norway’s national geological monument.

The bike ride around the island is 28 km with several

Read more at www.visitnamdalen.com 107

picturesque rest areas along the way. Herlaugshaugen and Ørnerovet are exciting attractions.

Visit the idyllic the island of Jøa, known as the “island in fairyland” from one of author Olav Duun’s literary works.

Sleep in a hammock park, visit the Iron Age farm at Tranås and dine at the brewpub.

Boulder at the climbing paradise of Flatanger.

The Hanshelleren Cave offers climbing routes to suit all levels.

Drive the Skrøyvdal Road between Høylandet and Salsbruket. Stop along the way at the mighty Skrøystadfossen waterfall, visit an activity farm or hike out to the giant’s kettles at Galtnes.

Hike in three national parks. There are countless marked hiking trails in Namdalen. Some offer sea views, some lead through forested terrain and others are in the mighty national parks.

Taste local food from the coast to the mountains.

Award-winning cheese from Namsskogan, smoked fish products from Nærøysund, baking from Grong and a Li-bab from Lierne simply must be experienced.

NAMSSKOGAN A FOREST OF DREAMS

Mention Børgefjell and many a grouse hunter becomes dreamy eyed. The same goes for beer enthusiasts when you mention Skjenkestova in Skorovas. Namsskogan is an area for dreamers.

Some have dreams here, while others live them.

Nature-based experiences You could be excused for thinking that Namsskogan was designed by an intelligent being with a sense for nature-based experiences. As soon as you get a few metres away from the E6, Norway’s main highway, you will discover infinite amounts of valleys, rivers and mountain plateaus filled with fish, wild animals, berries and fresh air.

Skjenkestova in Skorovas Skjenkestova, a beer paradise in the middle of the forest, ranks as one of Norway’s most distinctive pubs. In the tiny village of Skorovas, beer enthusiast Inge Staldvik has created a pub serving more than 500 varieties of beer, 160 aquavits and 70 types of whiskey. This popular pub attracts drinkers from all over the world.

The local mountain board, Namsskogan Fjellstyre, has 17 cabins for rent and administer large areas for hunting and fishing. The mountain board also has many rowboats for rent, some near roads and others up at mountain lakes.

With a permanent population of less than 40, many though Inge would be up against it when he decided to open a pub. However, interest continues to grow by the year, and the guest book shows visitors from 10 countries in Europe as well as one in Africa. Rooms are available nearby for those keen to stay the night.

The Namsen, the “Queen of Rivers” in Trøndelag, runs more than 70 km throughout the entire municipality. Although there are no salmon in this part of the river, it’s famous for trout fishing and fish of 1-3 kg are not uncommon.

Namsskogan Family Park Namsskogan Family Park is situated at Trones in the south of the municipality. The park attracts more than 50,000 visitors per year, making it one of Trøndelag’s leading tourist attractions.

Namsskogan is also the gateway to the Børgefjell National Park. A nice 4 km wooden path leads from the lake Smalvatnet in to Namsskroken.

The family park is home to predators, such as bears, wolves, lynx and wolverines, as well as moose and reindeer.

You can also climb Norway’s highest climbing tower, glide over the water on a zipline, drive crash boats or have a close-up encounter with the animals at the children’s zoo.

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GOOD TO KNOW: Namsskogan municipality is in Namdal in the northern part of Trøndelag County. The population is approx. 920 and the municipality’s 1417 km² is full of lakes, rivers and valleys.

You will discover more than 100 animals at Namsskogan Family Park.

From north to south are the villages of Namsskogan, Brekkvasselv, Trones and Skorovas. The first three are on the E6 highway, while Skorovas is east of the E6 with the turnoff south of Trones.

Hunting licences, maps and other info are available at inatur.no.

For fishing licences, you can choose between the Namsskogan card and the Børgefjell card.

You can fish in a choice of 800 lakes and 35 rivers.

Use the district’s flexible transport service (Tilbringertjeneste). If you catch the train to Lassemoen station, if you book 24 hours in advance (tel. 07417) you can take a taxi to Trones or Skorovas and pay the same as the bus fare.

The Namsen is one of 35 rivers in Namsskogan municipality offering good fishing.

Photos (from left): The mountain Smalfjellet in the west (Namsskogan fjellstyre) | Inge Staldvik (Erlend Angelo) |Brown bear (Kristin Smestad) | Trout fishing (Namsskogan fjellstyre)

Visitor Centre Carnivore: At Namsskogan Family Park, you will find a carnivore centre that informs about the challenge between carnivores and the grazing industry.

For more info, please check www.visitnamsskogan.no

TURN THE FROZEN

Frozen is one of the most captivating family films to grace the big screen in the past decade. If you love Frozen and its new sequel, you will love the locations and people of Norway that inspired them.

This is not a journey for those looking for glitzy Disney entertainment, but an experience for discerning travelers in search of the magic of everyday life. We will take you from the heart of Norway, filled with world class cuisine and rich cultural experiences, to the True North at the uppermost tip of the country, where snowy adventures with magical animals and people await.

Experience Norwegian-style luxury, authentic Sami culture, and epic winter activities that will turn the Frozen dream into reality.

The fairytale includes Exclusive & small group experiences: Horse & sled ride, reindeer lasso throwing, make your own frozen ice cream, lavvo cooking & tasting experience, cave hike, authentic visit in sapmi (Norwegian lapland), dog sledding, and Northern lights in the Polar night.

We provide Private local transfers, and 9 nights high end accommodation with half board and use of wellness facilities, including stay at the Sorrisniva Ice Hotel.

Price per person from $ 6499 The adventure can be tailored to your needs and wishes.

Read more about the Frozen adventure at upnorway.com

Photo: Tom Gustavsen

dream to reality!

Trøndelag’s largest and coolest

CLIMBING PARK!

- Scenic, child-friendly and challenging!

Foto: Marius Rua

We have 2.8 km of trails in trees and rocks!

22 trails with 150 obstacles!

33 ziplines ranging from 15 – 230m!

www.rypetoppen.no

N AT UR E-B A SED E XPERIEN CES IN TRØ N DEL AG HIK IN G

S A F A R IS

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TRONDHJE M S TURIS TF O RE NING Hike from cabin to cabin in the Triangle and Sylan. www.tt.n o

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ST.OL AV WAYS Historical walks through natural and cultural landscapes. www.stol av w ay s . c o m

14 N ORWAY N AT U R E White-tailed eagle and moose safaris. www. n o rway - n at u re . c o m

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VI SI T NAM DALE N Hiking, fishing, hunting, kayaking and canoeing. www.vi sitnam dal e n . c o m

1 5 M AU S U N D G LØT T White-tailed eagle and seal safaris. www. m a u su n d g lot t . n o

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NORWAY’S GEO GRAPHICAL M IDPO IN T Enjoy nature’s silence in the middle of Norway. www.vi sitinnh e r r e d. n o

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RIDING

OP P DA L S A FA R I Musk ox and moose safaris, guided hikes. www. m o sk u ssaf a ri . n o

N A M S S KOG A N FA M I LY PA R K See the four big predators: bear, wolf, lynx and wolverine. www. f a m i li e p a rke n . n o

CLIMB IN G

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DYRHAUG RIDE S E NTE R Mountain riding on Iceland horses in Sylan. www.dyr h au g. no

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C L I M B FL ATA N G ER Climbing for amateurs and professionals. www. c li m bf lat a n g e r. c o m

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PATRUSL I GÅRD Riding tours in the forest and mountains. www.patr u s l i. n o

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FOL L A A K T I V Guided adventures from sea to mountain. www. f o lla - a k t i v. n o

B ULI A , L ANGK LO PP AND TRO LLHE IM I N NE R S KO GE N Riding tours in wonderful mountain landscapes. www.opp dal . c o m

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RY P ETOP P EN A DV EN T U R EPA R K Fun climbing activities for the whole family. www. r y p e t o p p e n . n o

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M U N K S T I G EN K L AT R ES T I Via Ferrata – great nature-based experiences. www. m u n k st i g e n . n o

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W E STUM S TURRIDNING Mountain tours in beautiful Lierne. www.we s tu m s - tu r r iding. n o

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F IS H IN G

VI SI T I N NHE RRE D Ride in beautiful culture landscapes in Innherred. www.vi sitin nh e r r e d. c o m

2 1 S A L M ON FI S H I N G Gaula, Namsen, Orkla and Stjørdal rivers. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

10 DE STI NATIO N RØ RO S Ride in UNESCO listed Røros. www.ror o s . no

2 2 D EEP -S EA FI S H I N G Ideal conditions along the entire coast of Trøndelag. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

11 VI SI T OPPDAL Ride on roads or paths in beautiful nature. www.opp dal . c o m

2 3 FR ES H WAT ER FI S H I N G Enjoy the best of nature while fishing in Trøndelag’s lakes and mountain lakes. www. i n at u r. n o

12 COASTA L TRØ NDE L AG Take your bike and go island hopping. www.tro n de l ag. c o m

24 FJ OR D FI S H I N G See if the fish are biting in Norway’s third longest fjord. www.t ro n d e la g . c o m

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NATI ONA L PARK S AND PROTECTE D ARE AS

Bør g ef jel l n a sjonal par k LEK A BØ R G EFJ EL L N A M S S KOG A N

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3

8

F L ATAN G ER 14 1 7

Namsen

LI ER NE

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SNÅSA

B E SSAKE R Snåsavatnet

4

S T EI N K JER MAU SUNDVÆR

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15 F O SE N

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VAN V IKAN

H ITRA

Tr ond h ei m sfj or d en

Stjørdalselva

T RO N DH E IM

M ER Å K ER

2

19 S ELBU

SkarvanR o lt d a le n

1

Or kla

T YDAL G au la

RE N N E B U Tr ol l hei men

1

NERSKOGE N

OPPDAL

Sy la n

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7

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7

11 13

Forollhogna n as jo na lp a rk

R Ø R OS 10

Dovrefj el l -Sunndal s fje l l a na sj ona l pa rk F e m u n d sm a rk a n a sj o n a lp a rk

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Blåf j e lla -S k j æ ke rf j e lla n a sj o n a lp a rk

L ier ne nasjonal par k

TROMSØ

T R O N D HE I M 6 3°N

BE R G E N OSLO

TABLE OF DIS TANCE S Oslo - Trondheim 496 km Bergen - Trondheim 657 km Stavanger - Trondheim 837 km Kristiansand - Trondheim 824 km Bodø - Trondheim 721 km Tromsø - Trondheim 1152 km The North Cape - Trondheim 1623 km

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