Just Colour
Autumn 2023 £15
THE 1ST STEP FOR AMAZING HAIR INSTANTLY DETANGLES AND SMOOTHES To find out more or to become a Revlon Professional stockist contact us on 020 7391 7440 (UK) or +353 (0)1886 9313 (IE) Order online at revlonproshop.com or browse at revlonprofessional.com
INSTANTLY DETANGLES AND NEUTRALIZES To find out more or to become a Revlon Professional stockist contact us on 020 7391 7440 (UK) or +353 (0)1886 9313 (IE) Order online at revlonproshop.com or browse at revlonprofessional.com THE 1ST STEP FOR AMAZING HAIR
E EVOLUTION OF THE COLOR JUST GOT BETTER.
THE ICONIC FORMULA FEATURES:
COLOUR PERFECTION: 100% grey hair coverage with 4 Natural series
Up to 3 levels of lightening
With hyaluronic acid Free from PPD
Our formula is free from ingredients of animal origin or derivation
40%
Hair is up to more resistant to breakage*
*caused by repeated combing.
Test carried out compared with untreated bleached hair.
NOW ENHANCED WITH AN INNOVATIVE PATENTED TECHNOLOGY AND A COMPREHENSIVE COLOUR PROTECTION SYSTEM, FOR UNPRECEDENTED PERFORMANCE.
PATENTED COLOR GUARD TECHNOLOGY: For the protection of intensity and duration of the colour
BONDING PERFORMANCE: Protects hair during the colour process for hair more resistant to breakage
BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION: Protects the colour from blue-light damage
alfaparfmilanopro.com alfaparfmilanopro_uki
BLUE LIGHT PROTECTION
With replaceable customisable colour sleeves
divapro.co.uk
CHRISTOPHE GAILLET Diva Pro Styling International Ambassador
DEFINING EXCELLENCE IN THE WORLD OF HAIR EXTENSIONS FOR 30 YEARS www.greatlengths.com BEYOND HAIR EXPECTATIONS, BEYOND
TRIBU-TE is published by IHAA Ltd. Linstead House, 9, Disraeli Rd, London SW15 2DR
Tél. : + 44 (0)7957 160359
Email: info@tribu-te.com
Global Publishing Director: Mike Vincent
Deputy Editor: Bérénice Claude
Global Art Editor: Sébastien Simon
UK Publisher: Nicky Pope
UK Designer: Ilona Wylie
Cover: Hair: Alfredo Valero for Blades Hair Studio
Stylist: Alfredo Valero
Make-up: Hair Studio team
Photographer: David Arnal
Contributors: Octavia Perry, Renee Myburgh. Ellie Scott Tomer Nagar, Jerome Fendt, Mark Francome Painter, Garth McKee, Francesca Brazzo, Jack Eames
Translation: Parléclair.
Printing: Micropress Printers Ltd, Fountain Way, Reydon Business Park, Raydon, Suffolk IP18 6SZ
Tribu-te is owned by Seven Publications SAS au capital de 130 000 euros. RCS: Paris B442 270 393. N° ISSN: 2109-4810.
Tribu-te is proud to support
The Hairdressers Charity and the AIPP, and Haircuts4Homeless
360°
A tribute to Lluís Llongueras • Jérôme Fendt and Tomer Nagar: rising stars in our profession
• Proud to be hairdressers! • Debate: how best to sell your highlighting service
• Feathers: a collaborative photographic project • The best from the catwalks • London Eye: Jack Eames view of the cultural landscape • New products and tools not to miss.
Hommage à Lluís Llongueras • Jérôme Fendt et Tomer Nagar, étoiles montantes de notre profession
• Proud, fiers d’être coiffeurs! • Debate : comment vendre au mieux son service de balayage? • Feathers: Project photographique • • Le meilleur des défilés • London Eye: Jack Eames
• Les nouveautés produits et outils à ne pas manquer.
Must have and go
Spotlight on our cultural selection to brighten up your autumn season. Must-see exhibitions, essential films and...our vote for the best hairstyle!
Pleins feux sur notre sélection culturelle pour illuminer votre rentrée. Les expositions incontournables, les films à voir absolument et… notre pétition Pour le César de la meilleure coiffure !
Just Colour
Ready for a colour explosion? Meet some of the world's leading hair colour specialists who aren't afraid to push the boundaries. They share their best work with us. The crème de la crème. Prêt pour une explosion de couleurs ? Partez à la rencontre des plus grands spécialistes de la coloration qui n’ont pas peur de repousser leurs limites. Ils nous présentent ce qu’ils ont fait de mieux. La crème de la crème.
Portfolio
We have picked the best current collections for you, the ones making the industry’s heart beat faster. Plenty to inspire and excite you.
Nous avons sélectionné pour vous les collections du moment, qui font battre le cœur de notre industrie. De quoi vous inspirer et vous faire rêver.
Design
We take you on a journey all over the world to discover the most beautiful salons. Exceptional and inviting destinations.
On vous fait voyager à travers le monde à la découverte des plus beaux salons. Des lieux d’exception qui donnent envie de pousser leur porte.
CONTENTS
-
-
Setting standards of contemporary design, first-class functionality and pure luxury since 1921 Love it. Lease it. Own it. Contact your local distributor now Enquire about our 0%, zero deposit finance Yume And HArp Suntie Mn www.takarahairdressing.co.uk Hairdressing print sept.indd 1 14/09/2023 16:44
Nicky Pope, UK publisher
Editor
Welcome to this bumper colour-focussed edition of Tribu-te Magazine! For Autumn 2023 we're celebrating in particular the work of colourists worldwide with lots of comment and inspiration at the highest level. We have more than 48 pages of colour information and insights, plus 32 pages of colour photography! All created specially for you.
It strikes me how far the industry has come in the past 10-20 years, in making colour products that are high-performance and kind to hair. Importantly – vitally even – we are increasingly aware of the impact on the environment, and many are doing something about that, too. There is a way to go – but with a more thoughtful manufacturing process and better waste management, we can continue to enjoy the way colour has become part of the hairdressing market. Please do carry on demanding and appreciating improved 'planet-friendly' practices from your chosen colour brands, and help maintain the surge of interest in ‘green science’. Our future at work and home depends upon it.
Colour is also a fabulous way to draw youngsters into hairdressing. I often think that if we can share the joy of colouring hair with school children, get them excited about the possibilities of being a colourist in hairdressing, we’d perhaps have a more positive perception of the career opportunities? If you’re trying to raise awareness and support recruitment in your area, working with schools and colleges, how about emphasising the colour side of our profession? Demos, invitations to salon shows, working with wefts and hair extensions for quick fixes, these are visually interesting and fun to watch.
While we’re all colour vision this season, we do also have oodles of cut and styling news, and photography to share, too. Our New Generation (p23), Proud (p27), London Eye (p46) and Culture (p116) sections are brimful of ideas and comment. Browse the Defiles catwalk shows (p32), brand special features and the new products … plus Have a wonderful, brilliant, colourful Autumn season…
Nicky x
Love
NEW! MY HAIR. MY CANVAS. multi-benefit products designed to celebrate natural textures and curl types while simplifying your haircare routine. 100% vegan and silicone-free formulas.
Exclusively available at salonpromotions.co.uk NEW
HAIR PIECES 2023
AN EXCITING SHOW AND AWARDS CONCEPT PRESENTED BY TRIBU-TE MAGAZINE
Jump into an immersive experience – walk among our amazing presenters as they demonstrate their hair skills. STOP, ENGAGE, ADMIRE, MOVE ON AT YOUR LEISURE
Celebrate the grand final of THE BIG ONE awards, And watch a catwalk from our show hairdressers
AWARDS / BUBBLES BAR / HAIR
MONDAY 13 NOVEMBER
BATTERSEA ARTS CENTRE, LONDON FROM 6.30PM
Limited release of early bird tickets now available EARLY BIRD @ £60 +VAT – SCAN QR FOR TICKETS
360°
A tribute to Lluís Llongueras • Jérôme Fendt and Tomer Nagar: rising stars in our profession
• Proud to be hairdressers! • Debate: how best to sell your highlighting service
• Feathers: a collaborative photographic project • The best from the catwalks
• London Eye: Jack Eames view of the artistic landscape • New products and tools not to miss.
Hommage à Lluís Llongueras • Jérôme Fendt et Tomer Nagar, étoiles montantes de notre profession
• Proud, fiers d’être coiffeurs ! • Debate : comment vendre au mieux son service de balayage?
• Le meilleur des défilés • London Eye: Jack Eames • Les nouveautés produits et outils à ne pas manquer.
See more…
HOMAGE TO LLUÍS LLONGUERAS
Lluís Llongueras died 29 May 2023 at the age of 87. This hairdressing genius left a mark on the industry with his visionary talent.
Lluís Llongueras s’est éteint en mai dernier à l’ âge de 87 ans. Ce coiffeur de génie a marqué l'industrie de son talent visionnaire.
Lluís Llongueras was the epitome of the self-made man. Born in Barcelona, Spain, he started from nothing yet his name now resonates around the world. He is remembered for his passion for art. As a sculptor, painter, writer, photographer and even musician, he was closely associated with Dalí. Thanks to him, hairdressing was elevated to the rank of art and achieved recognition. An artist, seen as extravagant, above all Lluis was a humanist and a person of great generosity. Focused on training, he set up his own school to share his teaching and expertise. The Llongueras method and the book of the same name have become classics. Inventive and ingenious, he enriched the profession with a number of tools that have revolutionised it. Always curious about new techniques, he was the first to patent the diffuser or comb for curly hair. Defending women's rights is one of the many commitments Lluís made throughout his career. To the media, he declared:"I released Spain's hair to liberate women.” A feminist before his time, in the 1960s he fought for equal pay for men and women in his salons. His death remains a great loss to the world of hairdressing, but Lluís Llongueras leaves behind a colossal legacy. It's up to us to keep it going!
Lluís Llongueras est l’exemple même du self-made man. Parti de rien, son nom résonne aujourd’hui dans le monde entier. On se souvient de lui comme un passionné d’art. Sculpteur, peintre, écrivain, photographe ou même musicien, il était fortement lié à Dalí. Grâce à lui, la coiffure a été élevée au rang d’art, et trouvé ses lettres de noblesse. Cet artiste perçu comme extravagant était surtout un humaniste et une personnalité d’une grande générosité. Porté sur la formation, il a créé sa propre école pour diffuser son enseignement et partager son expertise. La méthode Llongueras et le livre du même nom sont devenus des classiques. Inventif et ingénieux, il a enrichi la profession d’un certain nombre d’outils qui l’ont révolutionnée. Il a été le premier à breveter le diffuseur ou le peigne pour cheveux frisés, toujours curieux des nouvelles techniques. La défense desdroits des femmes est l’un des nombreux engagements que Lluís a pris au cours de sa carrière. Il l’a lui-même déclaré dans les médias : « J’ai décoiffé l’Espagne pour libérer les femmes. » Féministe avant l’heure, il lutte dans les années 1960 pour l’égalité des salaires entre les hommes et les femmes dans ses salons. Son décès reste une grande perte pour le monde de la coiffure, mais Lluís Llongueras laisse derrière lui un héritage colossal. À nous de le faire perdurer !
21
NEW GENERATION
Tomer Nagar is an educator at the Toni&Guy London academy and is beginning to capture attention internationally. He won The Experimental One 2022 at Tribu-te 's
The Big One awards and his skill and artistry are evident
• How do you feel about hairdressing as a career?
Hairdressing as a career is a fusion of creativity and inspiration. It offers endless opportunities to grow and evolve as an artist while making people look and feel their best.
Tomer Nagar, formateur à la Toni&Guy London Academy de Londres, commence à se faire un nom à l’échelle internationale. Il a remporté le prix The Experimental One 2023 lors des The Big One Awards de Tribu-te UK. Sa technique et son regard créatif s’imposent d’eux-mêmes
• What drives you to achieve more?
Both the opportunity to showcase my abilities through invitations and the excitement of healthy competition provide the motivation I need to continually push myself.
• What piece of advice has really helped you?
My dad's advice: embrace mistakes to enjoy the journey.
• Who do you consider to be your mentor(s)?
My creative directors at Toni & Guy – Cos Sakkas and Daniele De Angelis, also my friend photographer Tom Marshak.
• What kind of creative work fascinates you?
I am fascinated by the art of storytelling through photography. Capturing emotions, moments and perspectives in a single frame is truly inspiring.
• Favourite book, film or music?
NTS radio [a global radio station] is my go-to, It consistently introduces me to diverse and international music.
• Do you have a particular compulsion? Washing dishes, as I can't stand the sight of a sink full of them!
• Any regrets?
I have no regrets. Life leads us to where we're meant to be and every experience shapes us along the way.
• Que penses-tu du milieu de la coiffure en tant que carrière ?
La carrière de coiffeur est un mélange de créativité et d’inspiration. Elle offre d’innombrables possibilités pour se développer et évoluer en tant qu’artiste, tout en aidant les clients à se sentir parfaitement bien dans leur peau.
• Qu’est-ce qui te pousse à en faire toujours plus ?
L’opportunité de présenter mes compétences par l’intermédiaire d’invitations, mais notamment l’enthousiasme qui découle d’une compétition saine. Voilà la motivation dont j’ai besoin pour continuer de me surpasser.
• Quel conseil s’est révélé déterminant dans ton parcours ?
Le conseil prodigué par mon père : accepter ses erreurs pour apprécier l’aventure.
• Qui considères-tu comme des mentors ?
Mes directeurs artistiques chez Toni&Guy – Cos Sakkas et Daniele De Angelis, ainsi que mon ami photographe Tom Marshak.
• Quel type de travail créatif te fascine ?
Je suis fasciné par l’art de raconter des histoires grâce à la photographie. Saisir des émotions, des moments et des regards dans un seul cliché est une véritable source d’inspiration.
• Ton livre, film ou musique de prédilection ?
La radio NTS [plateforme radio mondiale] est mon choix de prédilection. Elle me permet systématiquement de découvrir des œuvres musicales diverses des quatre coins de la planète.
• As-tu une manie particulière ?
Laver la vaisselle, je ne supporte pas la vue d’un évier qui déborde !
• Des regrets ?
Je n’ai aucun regret. La vie nous conduit là où nous sommes censés nous trouver. Chaque expérience nous façonne tout au long de ce parcours.
22
23
Tomer Nagar
Tomer Nagar
Jérôme Fendt
Jérôme Fendt
NEW GENERATION
Jérôme Fendt has been running his own salon, Le Quatre, in Metz for 6 years. This passionate craftsman has won several competitions including the French Big One Trophy in 2021 in the Men's category. Since then, he has continued his career, taking part in fashion weeks such as those recently held in Berlin and Milan. Interview.
Jérôme Fendt est gérant de son propre salon à Metz, Le Quatre, depuis 6 ans. Ce passionné du métier a gagné plusieurs concours dont le Big One Trophy en 2021, catégorie Men. Depuis, il continue sa trajectoire, participant aux fashion weeks, comme récemment celles de Berlin et Milan. Rencontre.
• How are you feeling today?
Energised by the creativity and the number of artistic projects open to me. I'm ready to "execute". I'm on a career cloud nine.
• What is your one fault that enables you to progress in your career?
I'm a perfectionist. It's a double-edged sword because this quality can, in some cases, be a real flaw.
• A word of advice that you’ll never forget?
"You have gold in your hands, never doubt it.” That's what my boss told me. A nod to Carole Vogel.
• A mentor from the industry?
There are so many incredible artists that it's hard to pick one. We all draw inspiration from each other, so we're all mentors to someone.
• A work of art that fascinates and inspires you? Nature is one of my sources of inspiration. I feed my imagination through my travels, my outings, my walks, my encounters.
• What have you failed at and what would you do differently?
I've realised that I need perfect English to progress. I'm still struggling, but I'm not giving up and I'm learning.
• A habit, compulsion, obsession?
It's more like a habit: I'm always on my phone and it never leaves my side.
• Your favourite novel, film or piece of music? My favourite film is Call me by your name So much romance…
• A regret?
I move forward, I don't look back. Well, as little as possible ;)
• Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
I'd like to join an international artistic team so that I can flourish in creativity, innovation and sharing. I'd still like to keep my salon and see how it evolves.
• Quel est ton état d’esprit aujourd’hui ?
Boosté par la créativité et le nombre de projets artistiques qui s'offrent à moi, je suis prêt à « opérer ».
Je suis sur un nuage professionnel.
• Le défaut chez toi qui te permet d’avancer dans ta vie pro ?
Je suis perfectionniste. C'est à double tranchant car cette qualité peut, dans certains cas, être un véritable défaut.
• Un conseil qui t’a marqué ?
« Tu as de l'or dans les mains, n'en doute jamais. » C’est ce que ma patronne m'a dit. Clin d'œil à Carole Vogel.
• Un mentor dans le métier ?
Il y a tant d'artistes incroyables que c'est dur à dire. Nous nous inspirons tous des uns et des autres, donc nous sommes tous les mentors de quelqu’un.
• Une œuvre d’art qui te fascine et t’inspire ?
La nature est une de mes sources d'inspiration. Je nourris mon imagination à travers mes voyages, mes sorties, mes promenades, mes rencontres.
• Qu’est-ce que tu as raté et que tu cherches à corriger ?
Je me rends compte que pour ma progression, j'ai besoin d'un anglais parfait. J'ai encore des difficultés, mais je ne lâche rien et j'apprends.
• Un tic, une manie, une obsession ?
Une manie plutôt : je suis toujours sur mon téléphone, il ne me quitte jamais.
• Ton roman, ton film ou ta musique culte ? Mon film préféré est Call me by your name. Tellement de romantisme…
• Un regret ?
J'avance, je ne me retourne pas. Enfin le moins possible ;)
• Tu te vois où dans 10 ans ?
J'aimerais intégrer une équipe artistique internationale afin de m'épanouir dans la créativité, l'innovation, le partage. J'aimerais toujours garder mon salon et voir son évolution
24
A new range of professional, customisable, high-performance, and sustainable treatment products that work in harmony with nature. WE LIVE HAIR AND WE LOVE THE PLANET Join us alfaparfmilanopro.com/gb-en alfaparfmilanopro_uki **With the exception of Nutri Care Oil and Hydration Creamy Shampoo.
P roud
HAIRDRESSERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD SHARE A PRIDE IN THEIR PROFESSION. HERE WE INVITE SOME TO SHINE A LIGHT ON OUR RICH AND EXCITING INDUSTRY AND TO INSPIRE THE YOUNGER GENERATION.
DES COIFFEURS DE TOUS HORIZONS PARTAGENT LEUR FIERTÉ POUR LEUR PROFESSION. L’OCCASION DE FAIRE BRILLER NOTRE INDUSTRIE, RICHE ET PASSIONNANTE, ET D’INSPIRER LES JEUNES GÉNÉRATIONS.
TOMER NAGAR – UK winner The Experimental One 2022, educator at Toni&Guy Academy, London
“What makes me proud is being part of the Toni&Guy family; a place where I can grow, create and share knowledge. Also, our industry encourages me to continue learning and developing skills and to stay updated with the latest trends and techniques. Working alongside passionate stylists who share their expertise fosters a collaborative atmosphere, where we inspire and support one another.”
• « Ce qui me rend fier ? Appartenir à la famille Toni&Guy, un cadre professionnel où je peux évoluer, créer et transmettre mon savoir. Notre secteur m’encourage à poursuivre ma formation et à développer mes compétences, tout en restant au fait des dernières tendances et techniques. Je travaille aux côtés de coiffeurs passionnés qui partagent leur expertise, ce qui aide à cultiver un environnement marqué par l’esprit de collaboration. Nous nous inspirons mutuellement et nous nous soutenons les uns les autres. »
MIA KABOURA – Mia K, Châteauneuf-les-Martigues, France
“I see the power in changing a woman's look. It's incredible! She becomes invincible. I love the feeling of contributing to this empowerment. What also makes me proud is being able to fulfil all my clients' wishes. I've taken colour masters courses run by some of the world's leading specialists. I went to the source and I bring this expertise to my French customers. I've always heard the term 'blonde cagole' used to refer to 'blonde Marseillais'. Today, women from all over France come to me especially to get this colour.”
• « Je vois le pouvoir du changement de look chez une femme. C’est incroyable ! Elle devient invincible. J’adore ce sentiment de contribuer à cet empowerment. Ce qui me rend aussi fier, c’est de pouvoir réaliser tous les souhaits de mes clientes. J'ai suivi des masters en coloration animés par les plus grands spécialistes au monde. Je suis allée à la source et j’apporte cette expertise à mes clientes françaises. J’ai toujours entendu parler du « blond cagole » pour parler du « blond marseillais ». Aujourd’hui, des femmes de toute la France viennent spécialement chez moi pour obtenir cette couleur. » 27
Proud
WILFRID KARLOFF – Propriétaire de deux salons, Lyon
“Why did I choose to become a hairdresser? Quite simply, because it's the most beautiful and allround job there is! For many years, I've had the opportunity to inspire several generations of young hairdressers, and it's been a pure joy. I haven't taken any photos for three years now because I decided to embark on a new, very ambitious project. I'm launching my own brand of tools with the provocative name Insolent. It just goes to show that there are so many different ways to go about hairdressing and all of them allow you to reinvent yourself.”
• « Pourquoi ai-je choisi le métier de coiffeur ? Tout simplement, parce que c’est le métier le plus beau et le plus complet qui puisse exister ! Pendant de nombreuses années, j’ai eu l’opportunité d’inspirer et de faire rêver plusieurs générations de jeunes coiffeurs et ce fut un pur bonheur. Depuis maintenant trois ans, je ne fais plus de photos, la raison est que j’ai décidé de me lancer dans un nouveau projet, très ambitieux. Je lance ma propre marque d’outils au nom évocateur Insolent. Comme quoi, les chemins de la coiffure sont nombreux et permettent de se réinventer. »
PAUL RALPH – UK winner The Team One 2022, managing director at Ego Hair Design, Inverness, Scotland
“As a hairdresser, I take immense pride in being part of an ever-changing industry that goes beyond just cutting and styling hair. It's a profession that allows me to contribute to people's mental well-being by creating a positive and transformative experience. By utilising my skills, I can improve the way individuals perceive themselves, boosting their self-confidence and overall self-image. Being able to positively impact someone's life through the art of hairdressing brings me a deep sense of fulfilment.”
• « En tant que coiffeur, je suis extrêmement fier de faire partie d’une industrie en perpétuel changement, un milieu professionnel qui ne se limite pas au simple fait de couper et de coiffer les cheveux. Cette profession me permet de contribuer au bien-être des gens en proposant une expérience transformatrice positive. En mobilisant mes compétences, je peux améliorer la façon dont ils se perçoivent, en boostant leur confiance en eux et l’image qu’ils ont d’eux-mêmes. Pouvoir influencer favorablement la vie de quelqu’un grâce à mon art m’apporte un profond sentiment d’accomplissement. »
ENRICA RUSSO – Winner of The Big One and Up & Coming One 2022, at Danilo Hair Boutique, London
“I started this career only six years ago without knowing anything about hairdressing. Now I can’t imagine my life without doing this job. Hairdressing plays a crucial role in making people look and feel their best. We have the ability to transform a person’s appearance and boost their self-confidence. We listen to our clients’ needs, offer advice and recommendations. In a few words, we make people feel happy. Being a hairdresser requires creativity and I think this is the best part of this world.”
• « Je me suis lancée dans cette carrière il y a seulement six ans sans rien connaître à la coiffure. Aujourd’hui, je ne peux pas envisager ma vie sans faire ce travail. La coiffure est essentielle pour aider les personnes à se sentir le mieux possible dans leur peau. Nous avons la capacité de transformer l’apparence d’une personne et de booster son estime personnelle. Nous sommes à l’écoute des besoins de notre clientèle, nous prodiguons des conseils et des recommandations. En somme, nous rendons les gens heureux. Le métier de coiffeur exige de la créativité, ce qui représente la meilleure partie du job. » 28
BRANDON MESSINGER – Winner The Afro One 2022, stylist at Guy Christian, Cardiff, Wales
“I've been in this industry for 22 years and there's never a dull moment. I enjoy competitive work. I'm very fortunate to have achieved so much and have had many amazing experiences. I'm particularly passionate about teaching and passing on knowledge. I love sharing knowledge and seeing others inspired and watching their journey unfold. For the past three years I've been mentoring a young man named James Forte. It's fills me with joy thinking about the things he's achieved in such a short space of time winning or finalising in competitions. It's important to pass that on.”
• « Je travaille dans ce milieu depuis 22 ans et je ne me suis jamais ennuyé. J’aime la compétition. J’ai l’immense chance d’avoir tant accompli et vécu de nombreuses expériences extraordinaires. L’enseignement et la transmission me passionnent particulièrement. J’aime partager mes connaissances et voir les autres trouver l’inspiration, observer leurs progrès. Depuis trois ans, je suis le mentor d’un jeune homme, James Forte. Je suis fier lorsque je pense à tout ce qu’il a accompli en si peu de temps, remportant des concours ou figurant parmi les finalistes. C’est important de transmettre. »
MAGALI DONDON – Miss Mag, Paris
“I'm proud to be in this profession because I specialise in textured hair. I'm proud to help women [with Afro hair] accept themselves as they are. I share their joy when they look in the mirror. They are often clients who have been turned down by other salons for a long time. I've been working with this type of hair for 20 years now, and I'm delighted that things are finally moving forward. Women with curly hair are increasingly present in the media!”
• « Je suis fière de faire ce métier parce que je me suis spécialisée dans les cheveux texturés. C’est une fierté de permettre à ces femmes de s’accepter telles qu’elles sont. Je partage leur joie lorsqu’elles se regardent dans le miroir. Ce sont souvent des clientes qui ont été longtemps recalées par d’autres salons. Cela fait 20 ans que je travaille sur ce type de cheveux, et je suis contente qu’il y ait enfin une évolution. Les femmes aux cheveux bouclés sont de plus en plus présentes dans les médias ! »
LEE NASH-JONES AND ROB WHITE – UK winner The Design One 2022, NashWhite salons, UK
“Being a hairdresser fills us with immense pride. With each service and experience we have the power to transform and enhance someone’s appearance, boosting their confidence and mood. The creative expression that comes with this profession allows us to showcase creativity, turning clients' and our visions into reality. Building strong relationships with people is incredibly rewarding and constantly evolving in this ever-changing industry keeps us on our toes and allows us the freedom to grow, individually and as a company.”
• « Le métier de coiffeur nous procure une immense fierté. Chaque service et chaque expérience nous donnent le pouvoir de transformer et d’améliorer l’apparence d’une personne, mais aussi de booster sa confiance et de lui redonner le moral. L’expression qui accompagne cette profession nous permet de faire preuve de créativité, en concrétisant les idées de nos clients et les nôtres. C’est incroyablement gratifiant de nouer des liens forts avec les gens. Le fait d’évoluer en permanence dans ce milieu en constante mutation nous oblige à rester au niveau, tout en nous offrant la liberté de nous développer, à titre individuel et en tant qu’entreprise. »
DAVID CORBETT – UK winner The One For Your Client 2022, owner David Corbett Hairdressing, Glasgow, Scotland
“I am proud to be a hairdresser simply because I get to tell people everyday that they are important and that they are beautiful. I tell all my young apprentices when they start that they have the capacity to make someone feel good, so they must cherish that, never forget that power and handle it with care and compassion. With social media playing such a commanding role in communicating beauty, the impact this can have on someone’s mental health is frightening. Therefore, for hairdressers, it doesn’t get any better than telling our clients, face to face, that they matter.”
• « Je suis fier d’être coiffeur pour une raison simple : chaque jour, ce métier me permet de rappeler aux gens qu’ils sont importants et qu’ils sont beaux. Je dis à tous mes jeunes apprentis, à leurs débuts, qu’ils ont entre leurs mains la possibilité d’aider quelqu’un à se sentir bien. Ils ne doivent jamais oublier ce pouvoir et l’utiliser avec prudence et compassion. Les réseaux sociaux jouent un rôle tellement important dans la communication autour de la beauté que leur incidence potentielle sur la santé mentale est effrayante. C’est pourquoi, pour les coiffeurs, il n’y a rien de mieux que de dire à nos clients, en personne, qu’ils sont importants. »
29
INSTANT UNDONE PERFECTION
DAVINES INTRODUCES A NEW HERO: DRY WAX, THE STYLING SPRAY TO DEFY ALL THE RULES OF UNDONE HAIR
Shuffle your favourites around to make room for a new hero addition in your salon or stylist kitbag.
Davines More Inside styling line reveals a new innovative and creative product courtesy of the brand’s hair art director,Tom Connell. Dry Wax is the hair equivalent of no-makeup makeup! This is a dry wax finishing spray which gives the hair body and natural texture, but without the mess and overstyled look of other hair wax products.
Dry Wax blends all the best qualities of a hair wax into a lightweight, sprayable format.The end result is a satin-matte texture that looks effortless and natural. Simply spray hair from mid-shaft to ends, and ruffle for perfectly imperfect waves. It’s that easy and quick. The hold is flexible, leaving hair soft and reworkable instead of stiff and oily.
Dry Wax is a finishing spray which separates the hair strands, giving you the relaxed look of loose and tousled locks. This newbie in the superb More Inside range is just what you need to master the ‘natural styling’ trend, and fast.
The fragrance of Dry Wax is part of the experience. The warm and earthy guaiac wood scent mixes with vanilla and vetiver base notes as they blend beautifully with heart notes of sweet orange blossom, soft florals, and powdery heliotrope. Citrusy top notes of grapefruit, lemon, orange, and mandarin add lightness to the fragrance profile, making hair smell fresh.
Versatility in a product plus the option to cocktail it with your favourite stylers is helpful to your work as an accomplished stylist! Something of which Tom Connell is well aware. He’s made Dry Wax perfect to use on its own as a finishing
spray or in combination with other products from the More Inside line.
Use Dry Wax on both wet and dry hair. Alone it gives a body and dimension with a satin-matte finish. Achieve defined natural texture by applying it between More Inside's Blow Dry Primer and the Invisible Serum
Alternatively, for an undone, natural movement, you can cocktail Dry Wax with the Oil Non Oil, achieving separation and leaving the hair soft, in line with the lived-in and layered trend.
Dry Wax is a new hero in the More Inside range by Davines… the brilliance continues to grow!
For more, visit: davines.com Follow on @davines_uk
30
SPECIAL PROMOTION SPECIAL PROMOTION
31
DEBATE!
HIGHLIGHTING IS A KEY SERVICE FOR A SALON'S BUSINESS. IT'S A KEY REASON CUSTOMERS COME THROUGH YOUR DOOR. THE REASON IS SIMPLE: THEY ARE INCAPABLE OF RECREATING THE SAME SERVICE AT HOME. SO HOW BEST TO SELL IT? A NUMBER OF HAIRDRESSERS EXPLAIN THEIR POSITION.
LE BALAYAGE EST UN SERVICE CLÉ POUR L’ÉCONOMIE DU SALON. L’UN DES SEULS POUR LEQUEL LA CLIENTE FRANCHIT VOTRE PORTE. LA RAISON DE CE CONSTAT EST SIMPLE : ELLE EST BIEN INCAPABLE DE LE REPRODUIRE CHEZ ELLE. PLUSIEURS COIFFEURS DE DIFFÉRENTS HORIZONS NOUS EXPLIQUENT LEUR POSITIONNEMENT SUR LE SUJET.
TINA STERGIOPOULOU / HAIRWAY SALON, ALIMOS, ATHENS, GREECE
“Balayage is a customised technique. We always take the time to consult with our clients and decide the best placement and colour for their hair. It means our pricing is often more expensive than our highlight service. Balayage is known for being a low-maintenance service, but we actually educate our clients to visit us between 6-8 weeks for a gloss to bring back the shine and colour to their hair. In my salon even clients that come in for a root retouch tend to get a Balayage face-frame to give it a brighter, sun-kissed effect for a more natural result. Up to 8 out of 10 clients will leave with a customised hair colour service. Either it's a retouch Balayage, a face-frame or a full Balayage service, or just some pops of brightness.”
« Le balayage est une technique personnalisée. Nous prenons toujours le temps de discuter avec nos clientes afin de choisir avec elles le meilleur placement et la couleur la mieux adaptée. Aussi nos prix sont souvent plus élevés que ceux de notre service de mèches. Le balayage est un service qui demande peu d'entretien, mais nous conseillons à nos clientes de venir nous voir entre 6 à 8 semaines pour un gloss afin de redonner de l'éclat et de la couleur. Même les clientes qui viennent pour une retouche racine demandent un balayage autour du visage pour lui donner un effet « sun kissed » lumineux et naturel. Huit clientes sur 10 viennent soit pour une retouche, un contouring, un balayage complet, ou simplement quelques touches de luminosité. »
CAROLYN NEWMAN / INTERNATIONAL EDUCATOR & COLOUR EXPERT.
“Our clients will always want pieces of colour in their hair, as not everyone will want to go for a full head single colour or perhaps it won’t suit them. However, I believe Balayage or highlights are just the technique not the service. The service is about creating a bespoke colour for your clients based on their haircut, personal style, colour needs and skin tone suitability. Now clients require a combination of techniques to achieve their desired look, so you may use a variety of foiled face frames, baby lights, highlights and Balayage all on the one head of hair! Having designed a personalised colour for your client means you always keep it fresh and instil loyalty.”
« Nos clientes réclameront toujours un peu de couleur , car elles ne souhaitent pas forcément un total look uniforme, ou cela ne leur va pas. Toutefois, je pense que les balayages ou les mèches désignent simplement la technique et non le service. Le service consiste à leur proposer une couleur sur mesure, en fonction de divers critères : la coupe de cheveux, le style personnel, la carnation et les besoins en matière de coloration. Les clientes ont désormais besoin d’un ensemble de techniques pour obtenir le look recherché. Vous pouvez utiliser un mélange incluant le procédé « face framing » pour encadrer le visage, une coloration « babylights », des mèches et un balayage sur la même chevelure ! Comme vous aurez conçu une couleur personnalisée pour votre cliente, vous saurez l’entretenir, ce qui promeut la fidélisation. »
32
RIA KULIK / OWNER OF THE HAIR BANK, MANCHESTER
“A Balayage or highlights client is generally going to need more looking after. I like to call them a ‘here for the ride’ client. They will need multiple services of TLC and advice from you to ensure they hit their hair goal. And most of the time these require a multiple service appointment to reach the desired result. This keeps this client so loyal to you; they will trust and bond with you more, thus likely to stay with you for a very long time. With all of the blonde influences from the celebrity world, we are always going to be asked for lightening services. I use this to create a buzz with my clients and it’s a great visual tool using famous faces as a reference.”
CHLOÉ ROY / LE PORTRAIT, LES HERBIERS
“In our salon, we prefer the term ‘streaks’ over Balayage. We always offer a free preliminary consultation. It helps us personalise our offer. We use suggestive and meaningful words to win the trust of our customers. The trick is to work with the seasons. We use several different brands for colour products. Plant-based colour adapts to the different natural shades and retains the streaked effect, but always in warm tones. What changes is the type of tint you want. We leave the choice up to our customers. In terms of price, plant-based hair colour ranges from €50-150. For bleaching, it all depends on how long it takes. In general, you should expect to pay between €150-200. ”
« Une cliente qui demande un balayage ou des mèches demande généralement une attention plus importante. J’aime ranger ces clientes dans la catégorie « here for the ride » (comprenez « prête pour l’aventure »). Elles devront compiler plusieurs services, des soins et des conseils, pour obtenir l’objectif capillaire désiré. Leur fidélité est d’autant plus boostée que vous tisserez une relation de confiance susceptible de durer sur le très long terme. Compte tenu de toutes les influences blondes provenant du monde des célébrités, nous aurons toujours des demandes portant sur des services pour éclaircir les cheveux. Je m’en sers pour susciter l’engouement auprès de mes clientes. D’ailleurs, l’utilisation de visages célèbres comme référence reste un excellent support visuel. »
« Dans notre salon, nous préférons parler de mèches que de balayages. Nous proposons toujours une consultation préalable gratuite. Elle permet de personnaliser notre proposition. Nous employons des mots suggestifs et parlants afin de gagner la confiance de nos clientes. La subtilité est de travailler en fonction des saisons. Nous utilisons les produits Redken, Oway (« la chimie verte »), ou Couleurs Gaïa. La couleur végétale s’adapte aux différentes teintes naturelles et conserve cet effet méché, mais toujours dans des tonalités chaudes. Ce qui change, c’est le type de reflets désiré. Nous laissons le choix à nos clientes. Côté tarif, la coloration végétale varie entre 50 et 150 €. Pour les décolorations, tout dépend du temps passé. En général, il faut compter entre 150 et 200 €. »
33
Hair by Kydra
LAURIANNE BAESA / SALONS WHY NOT VOIRON ET AIX-LES-BAINS
“We are specialists in Balayage and are known for this expertise. This service accounts for 90% of my customers. Prices vary depending on the condition and length of the hair. For natural hair, the price starts at €150. On hair which has been processed, we can go up to €400. These rates are adapted to the purchasing power of my area. My customers come from far and wide to see us. They return on average two to three times a year when the roots aren’t bothersome. The Balayage will change and evolve over this time. In other cases, I recommend they come back every 45 days.”
« Nous sommes spécialistes en balayage et reconnus pour ces compétences. Cette prestation représente 90 % de ma clientèle. Le tarif varie en fonction de l’état des cheveux et de leur longueur. Sur cheveux naturels, les premiers prix commencent à partir de 150 €. Sur cheveux avec un passé technique, nous pouvons aller jusqu’à 400 €. Ce sont des tarifs adaptés au pouvoir d’achat de ma région. Mes clientes viennent de loin pour nous voir. Elles reviennent en moyenne 2 à 3 fois par ans lorsque l’effet racine n’est pas gênant. Le balayage va évoluer au cours du temps. Dans les autres cas, je leur conseille de repasser tous les 45 jours. Côté produit, je travaille avec la marque Redken depuis 9 ans maintenant. »
ZEBULEN HOWELL / BLONDE SPECIALIST AT CHARLOTTE CAVE, LONDON
“I like to fuse highlights and Balayage together with most of my colour services. It’s key in my process to create dimension throughout the hair, as well as assisting in my signature, bright face-frames, it maintains a more lived-in look which my clients love. For me, it’s all about foil placement to ensure the client still feels bright in all the right areas. But also keeps the condition of the hair and the maintenance low so that while salon visits are more spread out, the hair still can look beautiful and wearable in between appointments.”
« J’aime combiner les mèches et le balayage avec la plupart de mes services de coloration. Cela constitue un volet clé de mon processus créatif qui vise à donner de la dimension à la chevelure, tout en apportant ma signature, des mèches « face framing » qui illuminent le visage. Cette technique dessine un look plus naturel que mes clientes adorent. Pour moi, tout repose sur le positionnement des feuilles pour que la cliente conserve un look lumineux partout où c’est nécessaire. Il faut aussi préserver l’état des cheveux et faire en sorte que l’entretien soit facile. Ainsi, même si les rendez-vous au salon sont plus espacés, les cheveux restent splendides et présentables entre chaque visite. »
CHARLOTTE POIZOT / SALON MÉLANGES ET COULEURS, LA FARLÈDE
“The vast majority of my customers come to my salon for plant-based hair colour. And there are more and more of them, especially since Lockdown! Last year I had a 60% increase and it's continuing to rise this year. Balayage is a natural effect of plant-based colour that adapts to different hair shades. We also have Ombrés, a Marcapar innovation that lets you play with darker shades. My packages start from €90 and can go up to €200. It all depends on how much time we devote to it. ”
“Our salon has a very good reputation for colour and 95% of our customers come for this service. Our prices range from €360 for very light, natural-looking Balayage, to €540 for lighter Balayage that requires more work. Our customers fill in an online form before we meet with them for a one-hour consultation. We do a test strand, study their hair history, talk over their wants and their lifestyle. We focus on a quality customer experience in a friendly atmosphere. We see one customer at a time. Balayage with us will last them a year. It is maintained every five months with gloss or contouring.”
« La grande majorité de mes clientes passe la porte de mon salon pour une coloration végétale. J’ai enregistré l’année dernière une progression de 60 % qui continue sa courbe ascendante cette année. Le balayage est un effet naturel de la coloration végétale qui s’adapte aux différentes teintes du cheveu. Nous disposons également des Ombrés, une innovation Marcapar, qui permet de jouer avec des nuances plus foncées. Les prix de mes forfaits commencent à partir de 90 € et peuvent aller jusqu’à 200 €. Tout dépend du temps que nous y consacrons. »
GARANCE DELACOUR / SALON BABE, PARIS
« Notre salon est très réputé pour la couleur et 95 % de nos clientes viennent pour cette prestation. Nos tarifs s’échelonnent entre 360 € pour des balayages très légers et naturels, et 540 € pour les balayages les plus clairs qui nécessitent plus de travail. Nos clientes remplissent au préalable un pré-formulaire en ligne puis nous les recevons au cours d’une consultation d’une heure. Nous réalisons une mèche test, étudions leur passé capillaire, leur envie et leur lifestyle. Nous misons tout sur un parcours client de qualité au sein d’une ambiance friendly. Nous recevons une cliente à la fois. Un balayage réalisé chez nous dure une année. Il est entretenu tous les 5 mois par un gloss ou un contouring. »
34
FEATHERS
A collaborative project between a hairdresser, make-up artist and photographer, Feathers is so beautifully composed and has been filmed to bring a magical vibrancy and life to the imagery. The texture in the hair, the colours and shapes are inspired of course by nature, specifically birds of paradise, tropical ornithology and other feathered forms. Study and follow what the team says about the shoot as a whole and how they worked with total trust and understanding in each other’s vision.
“Garth had showed me a series of images he'd shot for Sicky Magazine, where he'd layered live butterflies onto portraits, creating these other-worldly images. I'd been working on hair sculptures in a similar vein inspiration-wise, and so we decided to do this project together!” Mark Francome Painter, hairdresser
"Mark and I share a fascination with birds. In particular tropical birds of paradise... We set out to create a series aiming to merge a combination of beauty and movement, predominantly using dancers as models. Mark's structured and super-colourful headpieces
mixed with us printing the original images, then layering them with actual feathers and reshooting and relighting for the final results.” Garth McKee, photographer
“I knew the make-up had to have a naturalistic feel to it. Nuances and moments as opposed to planned makeup looks. I put together a mood board with lots of references, some make-up, some birds and others just interesting textures and colours. As some of the hair pieces were already made and quite bold, I thought it important to work around the hair looks and photography for each picture in situe; meaning some of the make-up looks I did on set, in front of the lights."
Francesca Brazzo, make-up artist
LOVEWE
35
“It was important to me not to do anything that overpowered the image as a whole. It had to complement and feel suggestive of feathers and birds without being too obvious.”
Francesca Brazzo
“I envisioned a variety of textures within the hair and wanted to mirror that of feathers, so I worked to make some of the pieces shine, and others feel very fly away, frayed, and free to move.”
Mark Francome Painter
“The hair colours were directly influenced by tropical birds feathers. I had to mix, blend and plan the application well before starting out – you can't work on them once they're in situ! I wanted the colours to be bright, but also bring in some natural tones so that it felt more believable, and human to a certain extent.”
Mark Francome Painter
"Birds of paradise are known for their beautiful colourings, so of course colour was important in my process but, just as much were the textures I wanted to convey – from velvety and iridescent to sticky and oil slick.” Francesca Brazzo
"The forms and shapes of the pieces were also inspired by birds especially the silhouettes that they create in certain moments of stillness and flight. Garth wanted them to look like rarely seen moments.” Mark Francome Painter
Photographer: Garth Mckee • Hair stylist: Mark Francome Painter assisted by Kirsten Bassett & Chloe Greaves
• Makeup: Francesca Brazzo assisted by Paco Silerio & Alejandro Ortiz • Nail technician: Olivia Gane
Models: Simone Carvalho & Aniki • Model/Dancers: Julia Costa, Anthony Selwyn & Yos Clark
*Vs. untreated damaged hair | **Combing breakage on damaged hair; with K-PAK® Color Therapy™ Shampoo and Conditioner vs. non-conditioning shampoo www.joico.eu #joicoeurope #lumi10 Make every minute count in the salon with our long-lasting, professional permanent hair color, offering 100% even gray coverage. Formulated with our Quick Coverage System, LUMI10 delivers 2x the shine*, reduced breakage**, and leaves strands feeling soft and looking luminous. HAIR & COLOR Ricardo Santiago. PHOTO Austin Winchell Henkel Nederland B.V. –JOICO | Grasbeemd 4 | 5705 DG | Helmond | The Netherlands 100% GRAY COVERAGE IN JUST TEN MINUTES! THE POWER OF 10 JOICO LUMI10 Tribute 190x265.indd 1 10/08/2023 11:13
A FULL SPECTRUM OF COLOUR
AVEDA’S FULL SPECTRUM PERMANENT VEGAN TREATMENT HAIR COLOUR FEATURES NEW EXCLUSIVE TECHNOLOGY AND DELIVERS FULLY CUSTOMISABLE RADIANT COLOUR
Whatever you dream of in colour, you can now bring to life! Your world is bigger with Aveda’s next-generation permanent colour.
Making the leap from imagination to reality, this 96% naturally-derived Full Spectrum Permanent Vegan Treatment Hair Colour offers an expanded palette of customisable colour. This means you have options to choose from precisely-calibrated shade formulations that are handcrafted with a unique blend of dyes, and pH adjusters for high-performance colour results. You can truly play the colourist extraordinaire and create virtually any colour with enhanced shades for endless possibilities.
The change comes following three years of scientific research allowing Aveda to develop proprietory alkalizer technology. This takes hair colour to a new level of performance. The new alkalizer enhances colour penetration for exceptional deposition. It means colour processes faster for 100% grey coverage in just 30 minutes. Radiant shine and longevity, even on difficult to maintain reds, is yours. The results are incredible with precisely-calibrated shades.. .and more of them! Enjoy delving into the vista of colour and selecting what you need to conjure a truly bespoke look.
• New Natural Cool Series: with 60% more cool dyes that neutralise the hair’s underlying warmth yet stay true to level (available in 9 levels)
• New Natural Natural Series: Added opacity and coolness for 100% grey coverage in 30 minutes (available in 7 levels)
• Improved Natural Series: Same tonal quality as previously and with exceptional colour deposition and longevity. (available in 8 levels)
• New and Expanded Tones: Same full range of light, dark and pure tones in bold new packaging plus four new tones for simplified brunette and blonde formulations and a pink pure pigment.
The newly-reformulated range includes a new protective botanical oil blend featuring sustainably-sourced ingredients, and 20% more weightless oils for enhanced condition and shine: Certified organic avocado, and baobab and sacha inchi oils. The range is formulated to work in harmony with the Botantical Repair Professional Colour Treatment for five times stronger hair after just one treatment.
Full Spectrum Permanent Vegan Treatment Hair Colour now features an exclusive purefume aroma, and comes in a new 100% recycled aluminium tube.
Grant Anthony Carr at Nineteen Salon, in Glasgow is witness to the beauty of working with the new formulations and shares his experience:
“I like the way Full Spectrum leaves the integrity of the hair intact, the condition is outstanding. You can definitely tell it’s an Aveda colour compared with other brands I’ve used. I love how you can go further with it as well, and create truly customisable colours.
“It’s amazing for bleached hair and Botanical Repair is the best product I've ever used on processed hair, and use this every time I bleach hair.
"I choose Aveda because of the brand’s ethos, also they’re such a strong brand – the support they give you is amazing. The way you can develop your skills and profile as a hairdresser through Aveda is unparalleled.”
You no longer have to compromise on anything to achieve the colour results you long for. Naturally-derived, vegan, and fully-customisable, Aveda Full Spectrum has it all.
Visit: www.aveda.co.uk
To speak to Aveda about your salon, please reach out on joinavedauk@aveda.co.uk
40
SPECIAL PROMOTION
41
DÉFILÉS FASHION WEEK
We were at the Autumn/Winter 2023 catwalk shows in Milan, London and Paris and our teams of photographers noticed how hairstyling has made a clear comeback! Our favourites were Di Petsa in London, Fendi in Milan and we loved Yamamoto in Paris.
Nous étions aux défilés Automne/Hiver à Milan, Londres et Paris et nos équipes de photographes ont noté un net retour de la coiffure ! Nos préférences vont à Di Petsa à Londres, Fendi à Milan et on adore Yamamoto à Paris.
42
1 3 4 5 2 6 8 9 7 10 12 11
| 5,
|
|
LONDON: 1-4: Chet Lo
6:
Connor Ives
7: Paul Costelloe
8 & 10: David Koma|9: Di Petsa | 11: JW Anderson
|
12 Y uhan Wang.
Photos: Stefan Knauer @ Catwalkpix
43 21 16 23 18 24 19 25 20 22 17 26 28 29 30 27 31 33 34 35 32 36 38 39 37
MILANO: 16-18: Aniye Records | 19,20: Giorgio Armani | 21-25: Blumarine | 26-31: Roberto Cavalli | 32: Diesel | 33-40: Dolce & Gabbana.
40 Photos: Stefan Knauer @ Catwalkpix
44
41,42: Dolce & Gabbana | 43-45: Emporio Armani | 46-48: Etro | 49-52: Fendi | 53-60: Gucci | 61-63: Missoni| 64, 65: No. 21.
46 41 48 43 49 44 45 50 47 42 51 53 54 55 52 56 58 59 60 57 61 63 64 62 65
Photos: Stefan Knauer @ Catwalkpix
Photos:
45 71 66 73 68 74 69 75 70 72 67 76 78 79 80 77 81 83 84 85 82 86 88 89 87
PARIS: 66-69: Balmain | 70-73: Comme des Garçons | 74-78: Chanel | 79-81: Dior | 82-86: Givenchy | 87-89: Isabel Marant | 90: Mugler.
90 Photos: Stefan Knauer @ Catwalkpix
LONDON EYE
Jack Eames is a hair and beauty photographer in London with more than 16 years experience in the art of visual storytelling. We share what Jack sees of interest on the cultural landscape as Autumn turns to Winter
1/ Exhibition: The Turner Margate
Margate is a favourite place in Kent, it’s just a 20-minute drive from where we live in Whitstable. The town hosts the Turner Contemporary Gallery, built on the site of one of artist JMW Turner’s favourite places in the town. Turner is the sublime artist of the sea. With an economy that few artists have been able to match, Turner created many stunning coastal scenes and seascapes. ‘Blue Sea and Distant Ship’ belongs to a group of several hundred rapidly-made and highly-expressive watercolours. These are sometimes referred to collectively as colour 'beginnings', and form part of a body of preparatory studies. Reduction feels so important in art, to me. This painting embodies the magic of stripped-down minimalism. A few deft touches can convey so much.
2/ Film: All the beauty and the bloodshed
Iconic photographer Nan Goldin is the subject of this film, which takes in a tour of New York’s 1970s counterculture. Ex-addict Goldin is on a mission to expose the odious Sackler family, the people who are behind America’s OxyContin opioid epidemic. It records the nuts and bolts of social activism. It’s moving, enthralling and artful – in every sense of that word. Nan Golding had a huge impact on my roots in photography and documentary, and her use of colour and light in her various books is so beautiful.
3/ TV: Top Boy Season 5
Top Boy’s latest series is on Netflix this Autumn, and I confess I cannot wait to view it! Most of Top Boy is shot around the parts of Hackney I was living in until three years ago, so it’s a good chance to reminisce. In need of a bit of a geek out, on various occasions I visited Dushane’s (played by Ashley Walters) office, which is actually a café.
4/ Music: Lana Del Rey - Hyde Park
Under a sun-dappled sky streaked with clouds shaped like chemtrails, this was one of the most incredible spectacles of live music I have ever experienced. Lana Del Rey was attended by six dancers, three superb gospel singers and a fourman band. Clearly, a lot of work had gone into this remarkable show and its theatrical tableaux. A unique mention to hair stylist (and my friend from Haircuts4Homeless) Anna Cofone, who made an appearance on stage. Anna has been doing Lana’s hair for many years…
5/ Gallery: Hastings Contemporary – Yun Hyong-keun exhibition
The work of Korean artist Yun Hyong-keun strikes a chord with my love of abstract expressionism. The paintings recall both the traditional Chinese ink painting, and western Modernist abstraction. Viewing, I felt reminded of Barnett Newman’s remarks that when standing in front of one of his paintings, he wanted the viewer to become aware of that experience as real. This is true here. The paintings made me feel aware of time passing, of simply being, and of encountering the movement of time.
6/ Podcast: Song Exploder
Song Exploder is a podcast where musicians take apart their songs and piece-by-piece tell the story of how they were made. The premise might sound vaguely clinical, or even joyless (music of course is about more than just its parts) but Song Exploder has recently been adapted into a Netflix series, and is warm, deep, and illuminating. It is a show filled with serious lines of honesty, cinematic production and insights into the creative process. For me, it really presents some of the finest explorations of the creative process you will ever hear.
7/ Big Shout Out: Tom Porter
Photographer and assistant
Tom - affectionately known only as ‘Porter’ - has been my first assistant for around five years now. Artistically there are few who can come close to the creative workings of his mind. Zines have always been a big part of my life, and Porter has created his own zine of absolute beauty. This publication is devoted to lamps. Please see it for an insight into the beautifully warped mind of Porter! Follow on @tomrporter
8/ Book: The War of Art
It feels as if you can hardly get out of the door these days without having received various prompts, adverts or something in one of your feeds to improve your life. I really don’t want to add to that assault on our time. However (sorry!) there is this gem I find inspiring. You will need to get through a fair amount of cheese in the writing, but there are real golden moments to grasp here. For example, here is a quick couple of lines from the beginning: 'There's a secret that real writers know that wannabe writers don't, and the secret is this: It's not the writing part that's hard. What's hard is sitting down to write.'Yes! As Picasso said: 'Inspiration exists, but when it arrives it must always find you working!' You have to turn up!
46
1
5 7
3
6 8 47
2 4
A WORK OF ART
MAKE THE DIFFERENCE WITH YOUR CREATIVE COLOUR BY PORTRAYING THE NUANCES OF EACH PERSONALITY AS YOU TURN HAIR INTO A PIECE OF ARTTHANKS TO OWAY
There is nothing general but everything personal about the way Oway works for, and shares with, hairdressers the most natural, ethically-sourced and packaged products.
Now the brand shares a new, creative, exclusive and personalised Customize Your Agricolor system of colour which allows you to share bespoke one-of-a-kind colour with your clients.
Founded on concepts of togetherness and connectedness, Oway’s Customize Your Agricolor is a progression for the much-loved Oway colour portfolio. It allows you to work with your own choice of shades to discover a buildable mix for a tailored colour effect. The key is in playing with tone heights. Simply adjust the amount of pigments used for a soft toning or a deep effect. With the Customize your Agricolor approach, you really can choose exactly the result you desire.
Even the delivery of the colour service becomes a ritual with Oway’s Customize Your Agricolor. A specially-designed terracotta bowl is handmade for you by Italian artisans. A master colour brush makes you more of an artist and is plastic-free and made in Italy. The box emulates a herbalist’s cabinet, fruit and vegetable crate or toolbox.
Treating you as a craftsperson, Oway recognises your skill and helps you express your artistry.
Newly reformulated, there are 10 natural bases and two superbleaching choices in the Customize Your Agricolor line up. Plus:
• NEW Agriclear – a new universal agricosmetic base which you can now mix with toners for different effects
• NEW Agriflavor – a new permanent agricosmetic pigment with two double (warm and cool intensifiers) and seven original (primary and secondary pigments) for creating all types of tones and shades. There are four toners and three taste pre-mixed pigments for creating softer shades
• Agricatalyst – now comes with 10 vol, 20 vol, 30 vol, 40 vol and Agritone – 6 vol
The formula for Customize Your Agricolor now includes a distinguishing active ingredient: Ash Tree Sap. This both provides hydration and protection to the hair, and performs a beneficial effect on the scalp which may be stressed by the alkaline Ph during the application process. It also contains: Biodynamic Sage Macerate, a soothing antioxidant, with moisturing and revitalising properties; Hydrolyzed Proteins
of Hemp and Rice, which stimulate the hair keratin; plant-derived Esters which contribute to making the hair colour process less aggressive.
The Agricolor range has been condensed to offer fewer colour choices, yet endless mixtures, putting the emphasis on your skill and imagination to personalise a colour for each client. The enhanced performance of Agricolor now ensures better coverage which is longer-lasting.
Inside Out: Importantly, this is ethical colour. At Oway, everything comes from the earth and is created by humans.
The pruning waste from the biodynamic sage macerate and other medicinal plants from the Oway agricultural estate goes to produce the new ORTOFFICINA ZERO-MILE UPCYCLED PAPER. With the use of glass and aluminium as primary materials in its packaging, Oway has the goal of creating the first global network of entirely plastic-free salons and spas.
To discover Customize Your Agricolor visit: www.oway.com/en-gb/
48
SPECIAL PROMOTION
49
PEP TALK
FFØR’S NEW NATURAL PLANT-POWERED VEGAN PEPTIDE COLLECTION, RE:BOND, FUSES NATURE WITH SCIENCE TO HELP HAIR REGAIN A YOUTHFUL STATE
Turning back the clock to maintain, strengthen, reinforce and protect the hair, a new collection from FFØR offers a way to undo the ravages of time, environmental aggressors and heat styling! The new Re:Bond collection is a must-have for anyone serious about hair care; colourists will love it.
It’s the innovative RE:FFØRM Bonding Technology from FFØR’s Prestige Laboratory included in each Re:Bond product that tampers with time! The powerful plant-based active peptide complex is packed full of natural Biostructural Protein peptides which instantly penetrate deep into the hair cortex and interlink with hair fibres to help increase the strength of each strand, improving the condition of the hair without build-up. By forming a durable mesh network with targeted repair, this peptide complex helps protect hair against environmental damage and excessive heat. With improved manageability, and a soft radiant appearance, hair is restored to its natural more youthful state.
The list of benefits to using Re:Bond is compelling and addresses the concerns of you as the stylist and colour expert, and those of the client. Re:Bond makes the hair instantly betterconditioned ready for any colour services you offer, to give glorious colour results which last longer, more beautifully. Working with Re:Bond reduces hair breakage by 82%*
Take a closer look at the powerful trio of new products:
Re:Bond Mist: Give clients the ultimate colour protection with this peptide-fuelled, lightweight botanical mist. It's an effective pre-colour primer which uses natural plant-derived peptides to reinforce and protect hair before a chemical service, helping increase the strength of each strand. Use on colour clients’ dry hair (saturate, wait 4 minutes then dry as normal) prior to applying your colour.
Re:Bond Mask: This is a powerful leave-in conditioning treatment packed full of moisture, nourishment and the all-important Biostructural Protein peptides which will help strengthen and nourish hair following a chemical process. It will smooth the cuticle and create a barrier against UV damage and urban pollution. Hair will instantly look visibly healthier, softer and moisturised after this miracle treatment. Apply to freshly-shampooed hair prior to styling (work through the hair and wait 4 minutes before continuing to style as normal - do not rinse out).
Re:Bond Serum: Better hair days are on their way with this nourishing and protective at-home styling serum. The final piece to the puzzle, this innovative serum is strengthening by nature, and luxuriously lightweight in texture. Botanically-infused, this hydrating serum will
help to maintain bond strength between services keeping the natural youthful appearance of the hair, and turning back the clock on chemicallyinflicted damaged hair. Simply apply a small amount to towel-dried hair, from mid-section to the ends.
Give yourself a pep talk! Remind yourself how FFØR Re:Bond does all this:
• Instantly helps strengthen and reinforce structural bonds from the inside-out
• Reinforces and primes hair prior to colour application
• Intensely conditions and nourishes
• Transforms hair into healthier, softer, smoother and shinier locks after one use
• Protects hair from colour fade
• Targeted repair means no build-up
• Works on all hair types
• Protects hair against heat, urban pollution and UV stress.
This really is a must-have addition to any professional kit bag! Amazing hair that looks natural and youthful. For more information visit: www.fforhair.com
50
SPECIAL PROMOTION SPECIAL PROMOTION
* Results observed in a Laboratory study (or using instrumental testing) while using mist and mask as part of a bleaching process. Results may vary depending on hair type, quality, and history.
51
ZERO COMPROMISE
WELCOME TO SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S NEW IGORA ZERO AMM: AN AMMONIA-FREE RANGE WITH THE KNOWN RELIABILITY OF THE BRAND’S COLOUR PORTFOLIO
Do more, with less stress, more scope and 100% performance! For more than 60 years hairdressers have trusted the reliable performance of Schwarzkopf Professional’s colour brand IGORA ROYAL.
Now completing the offering of all key colouration options – permanent, semi and demi-permanent – this power house of colour gives you ammonia-free permanent colouration options. Meet IGORA Zero Amm with zero ammonia, and zero compromise on performance.
Clients are increasingly conscious of what ingredients are in hair products, and they desire a more comfortable way of achieving great colour… but want both without compromise on results. Now you can share the enjoyment of a permanent colouration line, free from ammonia and ammonia odour, for a pleasant experience and natural-looking colour results. To put it succinctly, IGORA Zero Amm is formulated with Phytolipid Technology, vegan ingredients and wrapped in sustainable packaging.
The new range comes with a competitive assortment of 46 shades – ranging from comforting honey to vibrant red – without the need of a dedicated Developer. Plus, you can work with 100% ammonia-free dual application possibilities with IGORA VIBRANCE.
Importantly, the no-ammonia option doesn’t compromise on the reliable performance for
so long -associated with the IGORA ROYAL portfolio. Expect natural-looking, true-to-tone results with up to 100% white hair coverage. Rely on improved colour direction, coverage and neutralisation. Be confident of up to 3 levels of lift (10-series) and improved highlift colour performance.
Revise your colour services by working with IGORA Zero Amm. These ideas will boost your imagination and your business:
• Highlift & Refresh: Utilising the dual application method, this salon service blends IGORA Zero Amm shades to reliably highlift and neutralise in one application – resulting in a beautifully-refreshed blonde look, that offers natural-looking, true to tone results
• Cool Balayage: A classic, cool balayage look crafted with the use of IGORA Vario Blond lightening products, followed by toning with IGORA Zero Amm. Thanks to expert neutralisation, the lifted sections effortlessly blend with the rest of the hair, resulting in a cool, on-trend finish with face-framing impact
• White Hair Coverage: Perfect for more mature salon clients, or those with white hair who wish to have a more blended look. This salon service makes the most out of the IGORA Zero Amm reliable performance to cover up to 100% white hair.
Schwarzkopf Pro UK Ambassador & salon owner, Siobhan Haug, says:
“Igora Zero Amm is a simple solution to one of the most frequently-asked colour questions we get from our clients; is my hair colour ammonia-free? It’s packed full of nourishing ingredients like grape seed and apricot kernel oil which feed the hair whilst giving true to tone, natural looking results. For salons taking on Igora Zero Amm, the added bonus is that there’s no need for a separate developer as the Igora oxidants are already ammonia free.”
Completing the story for mindful salons and clients alike, know that IGORA Zero Amm is wrapped in sustainable packaging (100% recycled aluminium tube, 100% recycled plastic cap and min. 92% recycled paper folding box).
Alongside the new looks and salon services, IGORA Zero Amm is also a key colour brand used within Schwarzkopf Professional's Essential Looks Collection for Autumn/Winter 2023 for the Intention Now trend. All product, trend and educational information can be found on the Schwarzkopf Professional website: schwarzkopfpro.com/zeroamm
Follow @SchwarzkopfProUK on social media along with the #ZEROAMM and #schwarzkopfpro hashtags.
52
SPECIAL PROMOTION
53
CURL COMMUNITY
INSPIRED BY AND CO-CREATED WITH A UNIQUE HAIRDRESSER COLLECTIVE, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT EXPRESSES THE SHARED VALUES OF A COMMUNITY, AND EMBRACES INCLUSIVITY WITH A NEW PRODUCT RANGE
Authentic Beauty Concept has a commitment to embracing inclusivity and celebrating natural beauty. Its new Hydrate range now includes three new textured-hair heroes designed to enhance the most diverse natural hair textures, from the softest waves to the tightest coils. This is the latest expression of how Authentic Beauty Concept puts arms around everyone, no matter what their hair type.
Just like Authentic Beauty Concept, as a hairdresser you are devoted to the pursuit of helping others bring out their inner beauty. Now you can gift your clients a way to recover and restore curl to its natural best. No drama, just effective products to deliver beautiful results. Whether neglected, stressed or damaged by heat styling or chemical processes, a brand new trio of Hydrate formulas will get texture back on track, beautifully.
Designed to enhance the natural pattern of your hair, each product offers a solution for wavy and curly hair, with ingredients to help to seal the hair shaft, helping any style to appear smoother and frizz-free.Think greater definition with zero crunch, plus anti-porosity for a weightless finish. Used independently or combined, the products
add bounce and strength back into curly hair, helping restore the shape
Matt Surplice, Authentic Beauty Concept UK advocate, curl expert and salon owner says: “The curl range by Authentic Beauty Concept is making premium haircare more inclusive, ensuring professionals have incredible products for every hair type. This new range is rich in moisture for ultimate curl definition without being oily or heavy. It works throughout the curl spectrum from waves to tight coils, which is exactly what the range needed.”
All three products are formulated with sustainably-sourced Murumuru 'Butter' and Linseed Oil, both known to nourish and strengthen the hair. Murumuru 'Butter', a natural emollient, is renowned for its moisturising properties and offers natural protection from sun damage, heat and other harmful compounds.
Linseed Oil is rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, helping enhance the hair’s moisture content while strengthening.This powerful ingredient is also a rich source of vitamin E, B1, B2, B6, and
biotin, which together help enhance the hair’s elasticity. Take a closer look at each:
• Authentic Beauty Concept Hydrate Intense
Treatment: Deeply moisturizes and increases manageability, leaving the hair lightweight and silky-soft whenever the hair needs it
• Authentic Beauty Concept Hydrate Curl
Enhancer: A deeply-hydrating leave-in gel with a lightweight formula to perfectly define curls –without crunch! Offering the highest level of curl definition plus medium hold for curls and coils
• Authentic Beauty Concept Hydrate Smoothing
Serum: Lightweight and deeply hydrating, this water-based serum reduces frizz and smooths the surface of the hair.
To learn more about the new textured hair heroes and all product lines, as well as the brand's commitment to sustainability, explore authenticbeautyconcept.com.
You can also join and connect online by following @AuthenticBeautyConceptUK on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube and the #authenticbeautymovement hashtag.
54
SPECIAL PROMOTION
55
ORIBE CELEBRATES
THE LEGACY OF ORIBE CANALES IS BEAUTIFULLY EXPRESSED IN HIS ICONIC HAIRCARE RANGE
Known simply as Oribe – a name which now epitomises ultimate luxury in haircare – Oribe Canales was one of the most sought-after celebrity hairstyists in the world. He became famous for creating the sexy, big, beautiful hair synonymous with the rise of the 90s supermodel.
Born in Cuba in 1956, Oribe emigrated to the US and went to beauty school in Buffalo, New York. Here he met Garren, another awesome session stylist, who encouraged him in his career.
A working collaboration with Steven Meisel the photographer, and make-up artist Françoise Nars was formed and Oribe became arguably the first rockstar hairdresser. He was friends with the likes of Gianni Versace and a regular on the fashion party scene with his girls; Naomi, Cindy, Linda and the entire supermodel posse.
In later years Oribe was to be on speed-dial for Jennifer Lopez. More than a gifted stylist and sessionista, Oribe was a loved personality indeed.
In 2008, Oribe Hair Care was launched. Oribe had begun working with industry veteran Daniel Kaner, Oribe Hair Care president and co-founder, and together they changed the beauty landscape.
Packaged in artisanal-crafted bottles and scented with a custom fragrance created by a renowned French perfume house, Oribe introduced a unique luxury hair care collection of products.
They were formulated with luxury skincaregrade ingredients, designed for premium performance. The result was an edited line that Oribe had always envisioned, focused on the needs of the hair-obsessed.
“We set out to design products that didn’t yet exist — ones that could stand up to Oribe Canales’ extremely high standards as a top stylist and salon owner. Our earliest followers were session hairdressers, and their belief in the products spread out through the models, celebrities and beauty editors they used them on. In turn, they recommended them to the beauty-obsessed people who became our customers. Today, we’re even more committed to carving our own path.”
Daniel Kaner, Oribe Co-Founder and President
“It’s quite rare to find a product line that’s equally beloved by both salon and editorial hairstylists, by models, and of course, by all our clients. That says everything.”
Adam Livermore
Oribe Global Artist
All Oribe products are formulated with safe, high-quality, innovative ingredients. Dermatologist-tested, colour and keratin treatment safe, formulated without sulfates (SLS & SLES), vegetarian, gluten-free, proudly approved by PETA.
For formulation on products and philosophy, visit Oribe.com and folow @oribepro #oribeobsessed
56
SPECIAL PROMOTION SPECIAL PROMOTION
57
ETERNAL RITUALS
ORIBE’S CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY 2023 COLLABORATION WITH ARTIST LOUIS BARTHÉLEMY CREATES SURELY THE MOST COVETED GIFT OFFERING
At Oribe, every product is born of a commitment to design and artisanal craft. Each holiday season, the brand partners with artists and makers who elevate and celebrate Oribe’s values of craftsmanship and storytelling. The result is to make product and packaging into museum-quality works of art. Intriguing, seductive, and beautiful. Just as hairdresser Oribe Canales embraced the art of hairdressing to make women feel more beautiful inside and out.
Holiday 2023: Eternal Rituals
For the presentatin of this year's collection, commissioned artist Louis Barthélemy was inspired by the glamour and spirit of Oribe Canales himself. Louis drew upon the art of ancient Egypt to craft three unique vertical works that take their inspiration from papyrus scrolls. Titled Eternal Rituals, the scenes depicted tell the story of a sublime long-haired deity, whose magnificent hair flows upward like the Nile as it is tended by characters engraved in the colourful columns. This reference to ancient times celebrates the timeless daily ritual of experiencing self-affirmation and pampering through hair care.
In Egypt as the sun sets, the warm earth tones
and the dusty city disappear into the shadows and is replaced by the electric glow of neon signs along the Nile, casting otherworldly tones upon the shadows of the city that is at once modern but that hides history deep in every corner and crevice. Louis created his artwork so the more traditional daytime colour-way was juxtaposed against the vibrant surprising colour-way of night. The final, hand-drawn pieces are playful, sensual, and anchored in historical references.
Additionally, Oribe invited Louis to create a oneof-a-kind kilim, or a handwoven tapestry, of the artwork with a team of artisans at the Kahhal Looms located outside of Cairo. The process of creating the kilim is native to Egypt for the last two thousand years and takes about nine months to complete, as the yarns are manually tied then dyed with more than 20 natural pigments. To finish the piece, the yarn is hand-woven
Blending the ancient with the modern, the Oribe holiday sets are made from 100% post-consumer recycled (PCR) paper printed with soy inks.
Some sets include an internal tray made from 100% biodegradable and renewable bamboo and bagasse; an agricultural waste derived from sugarcane.
2023 Holiday Collection
Gold Lust Litre Set: Includes Gold Lust Shampoo & Gold Lust Conditioner
Cote d’Azur Fragrance & Body Collection: Includes Cote d’Azur Parfum, Body Wash and Body Crème
Gold Lust Collection: Includes Gold Lust Shampoo, Conditioner and Oil (travel size)
Hair Alchemy Collection: Includes Hair Alchemy Resilience Shampoo, Conditioner and Serum
Signature Style Set: Includes Dry Texturising
Spray, Signature Shampoo & Conditioner (travel size)
Shine & Style Set: Includes Superfine Hair
Spray and Moisturising Crème (travel size)
Hair Alchemy Travel Set: Hair Alchemy Resilience Shampoo, Conditioner, and Hair Alchemy Serum (travel size)
Premium packaging and products lovingly presented as Holiday gifts to delight your clients range from £33 - £295 RRP
The 2023 Oribe Holiday Collection is available now. Visit: oribe.com
58
SPECIAL PROMOTION
59
Products
ALFAPARF MILANO Evolution of the Color range has been updated with a new comprehensive colour protection system; Blue Light Protection to protect from blue-light damage; Anti-Pollution technology to counteract the unwanted effects of pollution; a UV Protection System to counteract UV light-induced colour loss. All help to tackle major causes of dullness, increased tendency to breakage and yellowing. Visit: info@experthair.co.uk AVEDA Scalp Solutions Scalp Renewal Treatment is an in-salon, customised, facial-inspired 75-minute service designed to target the specific needs of each scalp type – normal, oily or dry. It promises results from the outset. Start with scalp analysis then use three products in the Scalp Solutions range. Visit: www.aveda.com CRAZY COLOR Bond Restore Trio: Shampoo, Conditioner, and Recovery Treatment Mask are for dry, damaged, bleached and/or colour-treated hair. A powerful trio, each containing a nourishing Vegan Protein complex, will soothe, strengthen and care for all hair types. Each product is free from sulphates, parabens, and harsh chemicals. Expect lustrous, glossy results. Visit: crazycolor.co.uk REVLON PROFESSIONAL Color Excel & Color Excel Gloss deliver the most glowing shine yet, alongside ultimate care and condition. Two dynamic acid and alkaline formulas offer a fast route to stronger, healthier-looking colour, and reverse damage and recover hair’s natural condition from the first application. Equave is the first and original bi-phase detangler and conditioner. Now expanded with a complete portfolio including: Hydro – the reinvented hero one; Curls Definition; Colour Vibrancy; Strengthening; Anti-Brassiness; and Sun Protection. Plus a Detox Micellar Shampoo to seal the deal. Visit: www.revlonprofessional.com
GOLDWELL Dualsenses Scalp Specialist Densifying Shampoo, Anti-Hair Loss Serum, & Scalp Rebalance & Hydrate Fluid all comprise vegan, colour-safe formulas which are easily customized to address clients’ individual scalp needs – not only in salons but also at home. Visit: www.goldwell.co.uk
ALTERNA My Hair. My Canvas. Texture & Curls offers five formulas to celebrate all curl types. Work with: Begin Again Curl Conditioner; More Butter Masque; Loosen Up Curl Elongator; Begin Again Curl Cleanser; and My Way Curl Defining Gel. All products are designed to leave you with amazing results. Visit: www.alternahaircare.com OLAPLEX No5P Blonde Enhancer™ Toning Conditioner harnesses the power of advanced molecular engineering to address the unique needs of any blonde, lightened, or grey hair type. A nourishing conditioner that locks in brightness and neutralizes unwanted yellow tones root-to-tip as it softens, detangles,and strengthens hair. Visit: www.olaplex.com
60
61
Products
SCHWARZKOPF
PROFESSIONAL Fibre Clinix Bonding Oils provide smoothness and nourishment through transformative formulas. Both a light formula, and a rich cream-to-oil feature the brand's advanced Bonding Technology and 5-Oil Complex (with Abyssinian, Almond, Argan, Baobab and Camellia oils), to repair, strengthen and soften hair types, from fine to normal or coarse. Session Label The Jelly is a new bendable styler to sculpt, define and tame hair. Session Label The Coat is a multi-protection shine spray to protect, shine and tame. Visit: www.schwarzkopfpro.com INSIGHT Incolor The Capsule Collection comprises 12 new shades from light ash brown to glorious red, and two toners (deep pink and caramel). Permanent hair colour with Hydra-Color® technology to help retain moisture. Visit: www.insightprofessional.co.uk KEUNE Confident Curl is a shampoo, conditioner, mask and three leave-in products to cater for curl types 2A (wavy) to 4C (coily). Stuffed with natural ingredients, and without sulfates or silicones, say the brand. Visit: www.keune.com OSMO Curl Revival range for waves, curls, and coily hair types includes Reinvigorating Shampoo, a Revitalising Cleanser and Conditioner, a Renourishing Mask, Replenishing Cream and Re-Invigorating Gel. All free from silicones, sulphates, parabens and alcohols. Visit: www.osmo.uk.com R+CO Teleport Flexible Control Hydra Gelee is for creating a range of looks, maintaining style and transitioning cuts. Lightweight texture provides buildable hold, enhances natural waves and adds smooth, subtle shine. Email: info@xperthair.co.uk STMNT Curl Cream, Gel and Definition Spray. As well as helping you create in-salon looks STMNT says the new products are ideal for daily grooming routines. Great for retail products your clients will love. Visit: www.stmntgrooming.co.uk FFØR Re:Bond Mist is a peptide-fuelled lightweight botanical mist working as a pre-colour primer, using natural plant-derived peptides to reinforce hair before a chemical service. Re:Bond Mask is a powerful leave-in conditioning treatment with Biostructural Protein peptides to strengthen and nourish after a chemical process. Re:Bond Serum is a nourishing at-home protector yet lightweight in texture. Visit: www.fforhair.com KEVIN.MURPHY Blonde High.Lift heralds a new Blonde+ range and features six high-lift shades to achieve ultra-light blonde results with warm, cool, and neutral options. A gentle yet high-performance solution lightens hair up to five levels for optimum lift and neutralisation. Visit:www. sweetsquared.com L’ANZA Pro Colour Pigment Remover is for professional use only on permanent, semi and direct dyes. It comes in powder form (so no pH level) and can remove up to three levels of colour in one application. Visit: www.lanza.com L’ORÉAL
PROFESSIONNEL PARIS Absolut
Repair Molecular Concentrated pre-Treatment, Shampoo, Rinse Off Serum and a Leave-in Cream comprise a new range to reform and rebuild the molecular structure of the hair by re-injecting peptide components separately. An in-salon treatment should be followed by a daily regimen at home. Visit: www. lorealaccess.com
62
63
THE ART OF SESSION HAIRSTYLING
A Masterclass with Anna Cofone
6th and 7th of November 2023
With more than 15 years in the fashion and music industry, Anna Cofone, will be sharing key knowledge and experiences of her career.
This masterclass will be a creative, intimate and immersive experience, set over two days, in an inspiring location in East London for hairstylists of all levels.
Attendees will also have the opportunity to be selected to join Anna’s AW24 Fashion Week backstage team, based on their abilities and potential they display during the two days.
Email studio@annacofone.com to secure a space
*A percentage of the funds will go towards Hair & Care activities, to continue its work supporting blind and partially sighted women and young girls in their journey of self-care through hair care
ADVERTORIAL
Photographers credits: Felicity Ingram, Benjamin Lennox, Charlotte Wale, Petros, Hugo Comte, Felicty Ingram, Takahito Sasaki, Andrew Vowles, Melanie + Ramon, Sean & Seng, Felicity Ingram, Petros
-
JUST COLOUR
If colour makes your heat beat faster, read on. We invited some of world's best hairdressers to share where their heads are at right now when it come to working in colour
See more…
Ready for a colour explosion? Meet some of the world's leading hair colour specialists who aren't afraid to push the boundaries. They share their best work with us. The crème de la crème.
Prêt pour une explosion de couleurs ? Partez à la rencontre des plus grands spécialistes de la coloration qui n’ont pas peur de repousser leurs limites. Ils nous présentent ce qu’ils ont fait de mieux. La crème de la crème.
WORDS: MIKE VINCENT & NICKY POPE
JUST COLOUR 66
ANNE VECK
Anne Veck is an acclaimed French hairdresser based in the UK for many years. She focusses now on education and is on a mission to make hairdressing more sustainable, diverse and artistic.
Tell us about your hair career?
When I trained more than 30 years ago in France, men did cutting and styling, and women did colour! I started off cutting and styling as it was more glamorous. When I came to the UK, I had to do colour too. Colours were quite simple; covering grey hair, adding a few highlights for texture and depth. Things couldn’t be more different today –more exciting as the products you have at your disposal are high-performance and clients are a lot more daring.
Describe your colour aesthetic?
I love bright, bold colours but I understand how hair colour is part of how people define themselves and how they are perceived. With clients, I put my own aesthetic aside and explore what suits them best.
What do you find the most exciting in colour?
I like the fact that colour has become much more technical and I really enjoy the chemistry part of it. The products we have now are fabulous, very high-performance which enables us to be very creative while keeping the integrity of the hair. Last year I prepared wigs for a big show and used some free-hand techniques. My starting point was a painting from a Japanese artist Hiroaki Tajima. It was the first time I was using hair like a blank canvas. I felt like a true artist.
Is it helpful to have trends in colour?
Yes. I always look forward to finding out what will be the next colour of the year. I use Pantone a lot for putting colour palettes and mood boards together. This helps me keep on track when working on a creative project, and avoid the big faux pas of combining incompatible colours!
Anne Veck, célèbre coiffeuse française, est installée au Royaume-Uni depuis de longues années. Elle se concentre désormais sur la formation et s’est donné pour mission de rendre la coiffure durable, diversifiée et artistique.
Dis-nous en plus sur ta carrière dans la coiffure.
Quand je me suis formée, il y a plus de 30 ans en France, les hommes réalisaient les coupes et le coiffage, tandis que les femmes s’occupaient des colorations ! J’ai commencé par la coupe et le coiffage, car c’était plus glamour. À mon arrivée au Royaume-Uni, j’ai aussi dû faire des colorations : couvrir les cheveux gris, ajouter quelques mèches pour apporter plus de texture et de profondeur. Tout a complètement changé aujourd'hui. C’est bien plus enthousiasmant. Les produits sont ultra-performants et la clientèle bien plus aventureuse.
Peux-tu décrire ta vision esthétique des couleurs ?
J’adore les couleurs vives et audacieuses. La couleur des cheveux fait partie de l’identité que les gens se donnent et de l’image qu’ils renvoient. Avec les clients, je mets de côté ma propre vision esthétique et j’explore ce qui leur convient le mieux.
Qu’est-ce qui te fascine le plus dans la coloration ?
La coloration est devenue une discipline bien plus technique. J’aime l’aspect chimique. Les produits sont maintenant d’une qualité fabuleuse, ultra-performants, ce qui nous permet de faire preuve d’une immense créativité, tout en respectant l’intégrité des cheveux. L’an dernier, j’ai préparé des perruques pour un grand show et j’ai appliqué des techniques à main levée. Mon point de départ était une peinture de Hiroaki Tajima, un artiste japonais. C’était la première fois que je manipulais des cheveux comme une toile vierge.
Les tendances sont-elles utiles dans le domaine de la coloration ?
Oui. Je suis toujours impatiente de connaître la prochaine couleur de l’année. J’utilise beaucoup Pantone pour créer des palettes chromatiques et des planches de tendances. Cela m’aide à maintenir le cap quand je travaille sur un projet créatif et à éviter le gros faux pas qui consiste à combiner des couleurs incompatibles !
67 JUST COLOUR
CHRISTEL BARRON HOUGH
Christel Barron-Hough is founder/creative director at STIL in central London. She’s been British Colour Technician of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards three times and appeared in titles including Elle, Glamour, Vogue, Marie Claire and more.
Describe briefly your own journey working with hair colour?
I came to London from Sweden over 20 years ago. I’ve worked as creative colour director for leading London salons, and as global brand ambassador and educator for professional product houses, including Wella Professionals and TIGI. I’ve shot brand campaign imagery, spearheaded research and development for new product launches, and colour trend forecasting – all on a global scale – as well as creating colour on the catwalk at Fashion Week in London, Milan and New York.
What’s your colour aesthetic?
My style is feminine and fashion-focussed but I’m most known for effortlessly natural-looking, bright, clean Scandi-inspired blondes. I love a blonde – from a dark blonde through to platinum and pastel shades.
Who or what inspires you?
London delivers inspiration every day from architecture to food, flowers, design and fashion. But my DNA is Scandinavian simplicity, so I’m also inspired by Danish design – clean lines and simple aesthetics. And art is my main inspiration for colour palettes.
It is helpful to have trends in colour?
Trends give us a framework and reference points when we’re talking to our clients. These days, consumers are surprisingly aware of new innovations, moods and trends in the hair and fashion world - you have to keep up. At Stil we work with our client’s personal image to create an overall bespoke colour look to suit their individual style. Great hair never goes out of fashion.
Christel Barron-Hough est la fondatrice et directrice artistique du salon STIL à Londres. Elle a décroché le titre de Coloriste technicienne britannique de l’année à trois reprises lors des British Hairdressing Awards, en plus de figurer dans des magazines comme Elle, Glamour, Vogue ou Marie Claire.
Décris-nous brièvement ton parcours dans la coloration.
J’ai quitté la Suède pour m’installer à Londres il y a plus de 20 ans. J’ai occupé le poste de directrice artistique pour la coloration dans de grands salons de coiffure londoniens. J’ai aussi été ambassadrice de marque mondiale et formatrice pour Wella Professionals et TIGI. J’ai conçu des visuels pour des campagnes, supervisé la R&D pour le lancement de nouveaux produits, mais aussi anticipé les prochaines tendances, le tout à l’échelle mondiale. Par ailleurs, j’ai créé des couleurs sur les podiums de la Fashion Week à Londres, Milan et New York.
Quelle est ta vision esthétique des couleurs ?
Mon style se veut féminin et s’inspire de la mode. Toutefois, on me connaît surtout pour mes blonds d’inspiration scandinave, sobres et lumineux, qui dessinent un look naturel « effortless ». J’adore les blonds, que ce soit un blond foncé, une couleur platine ou des tons pastel.
Qu’est-ce qui t’inspire ?
Londres m’inspire tous les jours, entre l’architecture, la gastronomie, les fleurs, le design et la mode. Cela dit, mon identité est résolument ancrée dans la simplicité scandinave. Je m’inspire aussi du design danois, avec ses lignes sobres et son esthétique simple et de l’art en général.
Les tendances sont-elles utiles dans le domaine de la coloration ?
Les tendances posent un cadre et nous donnent des références utiles quand nous discutons avec nos clients. La clientèle est aujourd’hui étonnamment au fait des nouveautés (innovations, styles et tendances). Il ne faut pas se laisser dépasser ! Chez STIL, nous tenons compte de l’image personnelle de nos clients afin de créer une coloration sur mesure. Une magnifique coiffure ne se démodera jamais.
68
69
STEVIE ENGLISH
Stevie English is a colourist, business owner and global creative director for colour for EVO Haircare. Born in the UK but living now in Australia, his work is achieving critical acclaim worldwide.
Describe your own journey working with hair colour?
I started hairdressing in London in 1993. I'm left-handed, dyslexic and have ADHD. I was a nightmare in a classroom! Hair salons made sense to me straight away; the music, laughter, the energy. But I wasn't a natural hairdresser, it took time. Colour however, came easily, which explains why I'm a colourist. I moved to Australia in 2001 and started Stevie English Hair in 2007.
What are you most proud of?
My salon and my team. They have all helped me win the accolades of being
4x Australian Colourist of the Year, and Colour World International Genius 2023. I’m proud of my work with brands like EcoHeads, O&M and K18, and happy that I have reached the stage of my career when I can align with companies that I truly connect with.
Describe your colour aesthetic?
Punk Regal is my aesthetic. I would describe it as elevated creative colour. I love doing classic, beautiful naturals but I really thrive using bright pigments with creative placement. My goal is to incorporate unnatural or bright tones into traditionally 'natural' colours. Hair colour is ageless and genderless and everyone should have cool colour.
What’s exciting about working with colour?
I love shooting and creating images but hair colour also has sent me around the world educating and doing hair shows. It’s bought my house and it provides me a great life. All because I colour hair.
70
Stevie English est coloriste, chef d’entreprise et directeur artistique mondial pour la coloration chez EVO Haircare. Né au Royaume-Uni mais résidant en Australie, son travail est aujourd’hui reconnu dans le monde entier.
Décris-nous ton parcours dans la coloration.
Je me suis lancé dans la coiffure à Londres en 1993. Je suis gaucher et dyslexique, en plus d’être atteint de TDAH. J’étais un cauchemar en classe. Les salons m’ont immédiatement séduit grâce à ce cocktail de rires, de musique et d’énergie. Mais le métier de coiffeur ne m’est pas venu naturellement. Ça a pris du temps. La coloration, en revanche, s’est imposée d’elle-même ! En 2001, je me suis installé en Australie et en 2007, j’ai ouvert le salon Stevie English Hair.
De quoi es-tu le plus fier ?
De mon salon et mon équipe. Ils m’ont aidé à remporter mes récompenses : le titre de Coloriste australien de l’année que j’ai obtenu quatre fois ou celui de Colour World International Genius 2023. Je suis fier du travail que j’ai accom-
pli avec diverses marques comme EcoHeads, O&M et K18. Je suis ravi d’avoir franchi ce cap majeur dans ma carrière où je peux collaborer avec des entreprises dont je partage vraiment les valeurs.
Décris-nous ton style en coloration.
Le style Punk Regal représente ma vision des couleurs, une coloration créative sous stéroïdes. J’adore réaliser de belles colorations naturelles classiques, mais je m’éclate le plus en jouant avec les pigments brillants de manière créative. Mon objectif ? Incorporer des tons non naturels ou vifs dans des couleurs traditionnellement « naturelles ». La coloration s’affranchit de l’âge et du genre. Tout le monde devrait arborer une couleur branchée.
Qu’est-ce qui te fascine le plus en coloration ?
J’adore prendre des photos et créer des images, mais la coloration m’a aussi permis de parcourir le monde pour animer des formations et participer à des shows. Ce parcours m’a permis d’acheter une maison et je mène une vie incroyable.
71
JACK HOWARD
The colour genius Jack Howard is an independent global hair colour educator running a column for clients in London and the USA. He’s worked with and consulted for major colour houses and is a L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Artist.
Describe your own journey working with hair colour?
I started out in hairdressing in my home base of Lincolnshire, north England, as an all-rounder. There have been many paths on the journey, some quite surprising, but a career that is rich and diverse has brought me so much joy. In 2010-2021 in the UK, I was very much a part of the conversation that made commercial hair colour exciting to consumers and hairdressers. This paved the way for many others to be recognised for their commercial salon work. Up until that point, the UK market commercially was just classic foils. I was able to change that with fantastic press, social media, and it helped elevate salon work.
Was that game-changing?
Yes. I stood proud and I’m super proud of that. I won the Marie Claire Magazine Hair Colourist of the Year 2018 award, and Colour World’s Colour Communicator 2020 and 2021 which was just the icing on the cake for me. I’d endured a tremendous amount of pushback from both sides, because I basically said there is so much more than a classic foil. Some people don’t like that kind of change, yet others loved it.
Describe your colour aesthetic.
Celine to Zara! Nothing overly done or coloured, but yes coloured! I love warmth and softness, and like the feeling of effortless... but it takes a lot of effort to make it look so simple.
Jack Howard, génie de la coloration, travaille comme formateur mondial indépendant en coloration, tout en gardant du temps pour ses clients à Londres et aux États-Unis. Il a collaboré avec les marques de coloration les plus réputées, en plus d’être coloriste L’Oréal Professionnel.
Décris-nous ton parcours dans la coloration.
J’ai démarré comme coiffeur dans mon Lincolnshire natal, au nord de l’Angleterre. Mon parcours m’a fait emprunter de nombreux chemins, certains très surprenants, mais cette carrière riche et variée m’a procuré énormément de bonheur. Entre 2010 et 2021, au Royaume-Uni, j’ai contribué au mouvement qui a fait de la coloration commerciale une expérience passionnante pour les consommateurs et les coiffeurs. De nombreux coiffeurs ont pu voir leurs services en salon reconnus. Jusqu’alors, le marché se limitait aux mèches classiques et commerciales. J’ai pu faire évoluer la situation grâce aux réseaux sociaux et à une couverture médiatique incroyable. Le travail en salon s’en est trouvé revalorisé.
Cela a-t-il changé la donne ?
Oui. Je m’en réjouis et j’en suis ultra fier. J’ai remporté le titre de Coloriste de l’année 2018 décerné par le magazine Marie Claire, ainsi que le titre de Colour Communicator 2020 et 2021 de Colour World, la cerise sur le gâteau. J’ai été confronté à de nombreuses réactions négatives émanant de tous bords, simplement pour avoir affirmé qu’il existait bien plus de techniques que les feuilles d’aluminium classiques. Certaines personnes n’apprécient pas ce genre de changement, mais d’autres s’en réjouissent.
Peux-tu décrire ta vision esthétique des couleurs ?
De Céline à Zara ! Rien de surchargé ou bigarré, mais oui de la couleur ! J’adore le côté doux et chaleureux, et j’apprécie aussi l’impression « effortless », qui exige toutefois beaucoup d’efforts.
JUST COLOUR 72
Adding International Hairstylist of the Year 2023 to his trophy haul, Mark Leeson is a celebrated hairdresser known for impeccably polished, brave and beautiful colour work. He owns two salons in the UK and is global creative ambassador for Revlon Professional
Describe briefly your own journey working with hair colour?
Ever since I became interested in hairdressing, it was always a two-fold process for me. 95% of my work both in the salon and on set is enhanced by colour. I don’t even visualise a hairstyle or finished look without the addition of colour. It’s been very important to me to train each of my salon team to be able to understand and practise colour at the highest level.
Describe your colour aesthetic?
I literally don’t have one, but there is something so sexy and so luxurious about rich copper hair!
What do you find the most exciting about working with colour?
The transformative process; the ability to be able to create a 3-D version of your haircut. No two heads are the same and I never tire of the process.
Who or what inspires you?
My own imagination. I’m always asking, how can I be different and move this on my way? I’m also blown away by the work of X-Presion team - their choice of palette is genuine and refreshing. And the colour work and dynamics of my fellow British hairdresser Angelo Seminara.
Is it helpful to have trends in colour?
For the salon yes – we always encourage clients to move a shade or more from summer to winter and to try and evolve the technique applied. Trends are a talking point, something new to put our spin on. When there is a fashion shade that comes to the fore, we make a point of featuring it both in our photographic and salon work as it generally appeals to our younger more adventurous clientele.
MARK LEESON
Coiffeur international de l’année 2023, Mark Leeson est un coiffeur multirécompensé et reconnu pour son travail de couleur soigné, audacieux et magnifique. Propriétaire de deux salons au Royaume-Uni, il est ambassadeur artistique mondial pour Revlon Professional.
Décris-nous brièvement ton parcours dans la coloration. Depuis que j’ai commencé à m’intéresser à la coiffure, le processus a toujours été en deux étapes. 95 % de mon travail, que ce soit en salon ou dans le cadre d’événements, est mis en valeur par la couleur. Je ne peux même pas visualiser une coiffure ou un look fini sans en ajouter. Pour moi, il est indispensable de former mon équipe de sorte qu’elle possède une connaissance et une technique poussées de la coloration.
Peux-tu décrire ta vision esthétique des couleurs ?
Je n’en ai absolument aucune, mais je trouve qu’une chevelure arborant un cuivré intense dégage quelque chose de très sexy et somptueux !
Qu’est-ce qui te fascine le plus dans le travail de coloration ?
Le processus de transformation, cette capacité de créer une version 3D de votre coupe de cheveux. Chaque tête est unique et je ne me lasse jamais de ce processus.
Qu’est-ce qui t’inspire ?
Ma propre imagination. Je me pose toujours la question suivante : comment puisje me différencier et avancer ? Je suis bluffé par le travail de X-presion, son choix de palette est d’une authenticité rafraîchissante. J’admire aussi celui de mon collègue coiffeur britannique, Angelo Seminara, qui était nommé pour ce prix.
Les tendances sont-elles utiles dans le domaine de la coloration ?
Pour le salon, oui. Nous encourageons toujours notre clientèle à changer d’un ton ou plus entre l’été et l’hiver et à faire évoluer la technique appliquée. Les tendances offrent un sujet de discussion, un élément nouveau que nous pouvons adapter à notre manière. Quand une nuance en vogue s’impose, nous faisons en sorte de la mettre en avant dans notre travail photographique et en salon. En général, elle séduit notre clientèle plus jeune et plus audacieuse.
JUST COLOUR 73
ANTOINETTE BEENDERS
Antoinette Beenders is senior vice president of creative at Aveda. She oversees the global artistic team and is responsible for the brand’s image. Adventurous and accomplished, she’s imaginative without limits.
Describe briefly your own journey working with hair colour?
I am a hair ‘colour concept’ person and love coming up with new ideas. I look at hair colour from a cutting and styling point of view as those are my specialties. This creates a different vision as I have no pre-conceived notion of what can and can’t be done!
What are you proud of?
I only recently started to experiment with colour in my own collections. My first colour-focussed collection is ‘Bloem’. I decided to ‘cut with colour’. Instead of cutting hair in a bob I coloured the hair into a bob. My second colour collection (A.P.O.H.) is in collaboration with X-presion. I developed
a concept around the fabric of a famous Japanese fashion designer. We re-used hair pieces from previous shows, re-colouring on top and adding another dimension.
Describe your colour aesthetic?
I like bright bold colours, hence I love Aveda's vibrant hair colour. It’s super easy to use and an amazing colour palette. Currently I am really into a 3-dimensional hair effect and colour helps me achieve that.
Who or what inspires you?
Our artists that stand behind the chair with clients all day, they are the true heroes of our brand. Doing colour on pieces or models is one thing, but creating colour that enhances the client is a different ball game.
It is helpful to have trends in colour?
I think trends are for clients, so they can see examples of hair colour they might be interested to try. But the ultimate trend is custom hair colour. Everyone should have colour to complement their skin and hair.
74
Vice-présidente senior de la création chez Aveda, Antoinette Beenders supervise l'équipe artistique mondiale et est responsable de l'image de la marque. Aventureuse et accomplie, elle fait preuve d'une imagination sans limite.
Peux-tu nous parler de ton travail ?
Je suis une adepte du « concept de couleur » et j'adore trouver de nouvelles idées. Je considère la coloration en fonction de la coupe et du styling, car ce sont mes spécialités. Ma vision est ainsi singulière car je n'ai aucune idée préconçue de ce qui peut ou ne peut pas être fait !
De quoi es-tu fière ?
J’expérimente la couleur dans mes propres collections depuis peu. Ma première collection qui y est dédiée s’intitule Bloem. J'ai décidé de « couper avec de la couleur ». Au lieu de couper les cheveux au carré, je les ai colorés en carré. Ma deuxième collection de couleurs (A.P.O.H., A Piece of Hair) a été réalisée en collaboration avec X-presion. J'ai développé un concept autour du tissu d'un célèbre créateur de mode japonais. Nous avons réutilisé des cheveux des défilés précédents, en les recolorant et en leur donnant une autre dimension.
Quel est ton style en coloration ?
J'aime les couleurs vives et audacieuses, c'est pourquoi j'adore la coloration vibrante d'Aveda. Très facile à utiliser, elle offre une palette de couleurs étonnante. En ce moment, j'aime beaucoup l'effet tridimensionnel des cheveux, et la couleur m'aide à y parvenir.
Qu’est-ce qui t’inspire ?
Ce qui m'inspire dans mon travail, ce sont les artistes derrière le fauteuil avec les clients toute la journée. Ils sont les véritables héros de notre marque. Faire de la couleur sur des perruques ou des mannequins est une chose, mais créer une couleur qui mette en valeur le client est une autre paire de manches.
Penses-tu que les tendances en matière de couleurs soient utiles en matière de création ?
Les tendances sont destinées aux clients, afin qu'ils puissent voir des exemples qu'ils pourraient adopter. Mais pour moi la tendance ultime est la coloration personnalisée. Tout le monde devrait avoir une couleur qui s'harmonise avec sa peau et ses cheveux.
75
LESLEY JENNISON
Lesley Jennison was the first colourist and first woman to manage a Vidal Sassoon salon in London. She’s an educator and global colour ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional, while working still in the Billi Currie salon in central London, took The One with Colour Vision 2023 at The Big One awards.
Tell us how you started in colour?
I’m proud of my career. I put my heart and the hours into this life. I won UK colour assistant of the year at Vidal Sassoon salons before I qualified. I headed the colour department, was a salon manager and in the global art team.
What’s been a memorable achievement?
Collaborating with the chemists at Schwarzkopf Professional to create six new colours three of which are now incorporated into the Igora Royal Portfolio. It was 18 months of testing the tones over and over until they were pure perfection!
What’s your colour aesthetic?
It’s hard to pinpoint! I love all forms of colouring from soft or classic to super strong or editorial. I love to over-deliver on any brief. It’s whatever is right for the client/model in front of me. I do have particular favourite tones: buttery. and angel tone blondes, all shades of coral, and velvet browns. I really love muted tones together but at the same time I love jarring colours.
Where do you find inspiration?
I normally look at the zeitgeist of any particular colour or era. People inspire me. Not necessarily with their hair colour but most certainly attitudes.
Are colour trends useful?
It’s absolutely imperative to be aware of colour trends. They can be the start of our inspiration each time we colour our clients. We owe it to our clients to be able to converse about techniques and colour palettes. But I don’t agree with being a slave to them.
76
Lesley Jennison a été la première coloriste et la première femme à diriger un salon Vidal Sassoon à Londres. Elle est aujourd’hui formatrice et Global Color Ambassador Schwarzkopf Professional, tout en continuant à travailler dans le salon Billi Currie en plein cœur de Londres.
Raconte-nous ton parcours dans la coloration. Je suis très fière de mon parcours. Je me donne à fond dans mon travail sans compter mes heures. J’ai remporté le titre d’assistante coloriste de l’année au Royaume-Uni dans les salons Vidal Sassoon avant même d’être diplômée. Je suis devenue responsable du service coloration, membre de l’équipe artistique mondiale et directrice de salon.
Quelle est la réalisation dont tu es la plus fière ?
Collaborer avec les chimistes de Schwarzkopf Professional pour concevoir six couleurs inédites, dont trois font désormais partie de la gamme Igora Royal. Pendant 18 mois, nous avons testé les teintes encore et encore jusqu’à obtenir la perfection même !
Quel est ton style en coloration ?
C’est difficile à dire ! J’adore toutes les formes de couleurs, qu’elles soient douces ou classiques ou super intenses ou à des fins éditoriales. J’adore aller au-delà des attentes. L’idée est d’offrir ce qui convient le mieux à la cliente ou au modèle en face de moi. J’ai bien des tonalités préférées : les blonds crémeux et angéliques, toutes les nuances de corail et les bruns velours. J’aime énormément les tons feutrés ensemble, mais en même temps, j’adore les couleurs discordantes.
Où puises-tu l’inspiration ?
En général, je m’intéresse au contexte culturel dans lequel s’inscrit la couleur ou l’époque en question. Les gens m’inspirent. Pas forcément en raison de leur couleur de cheveux, mais davantage en raison de leur façon d’être.
Les tendances sont-elles utiles dans le domaine de la coloration ?
Elles peuvent déclencher notre inspiration. Nous avons un devoir envers nos clients, celui d’être capable de discuter des techniques et des palettes chromatiques. Mais je pense qu’il ne faut pas en devenir les esclaves.
77
78
GIUSEPPE STELITANO
Giuseppe Stelitano is creative director at Trevor Sorbie International, working on education and shows for the brand and leading the creative team. He is the first colourist to be appointed to the role… an honour indeed.
Describe your own journey working with hair colour?
My journey with colour started a long time ago, even before I became a hairdresser. I often changed my own hair colour and experimented with it. Sometimes I would change it multiple times a month! I never realised how complex and scientific the colouring process is until the day I started learning hairdressing, and I realised that colour was my calling. Two years ago I took the L’Oréal Colour Specialist course, which I passed with distinction; a very proud moment in my career. Being a colourist allows me to express my vision artistically.
What’s exciting about working with colour?
The endless possibility! You can completely change someone’s hair colour and their persona, their character to give them more confidence.
Who or what inspires you?
Mostly art and fashion, but also in the last couple of years I feel more fascinated with people's individuality and personal style. Travelling around different cities has helped me see how people wear their hair and how they express themselves, expanding my personal cultural perception. This allows me to create different colour combinations and new techniques.
It is helpful to have trends in colour?
It’s important to stay up to date with what’s going on in the world to be able to offer the best service to your guests. You might be asked for something that they saw on Tik Tok or other social media. I do believe that creating something that’s tailored specifically to the individual will bring more satisfaction. At Trevor Sorbie our ethos is personalised artistry.
Giuseppe Stelitano, directeur artistique chez Trevor Sorbie, concentre son travail sur la formation et les shows pour la marque, tout en supervisant l’équipe artistique. Il est le tout premier coloriste à être nommé à ce poste. Un véritable honneur !
Décris-nous brièvement ton parcours dans la coloration. Je me suis lancé dans la coloration il y a longtemps, avant même de devenir coiffeur. Je changeais souvent ma propre couleur de cheveux en expérimentant. Parfois, plusieurs fois par mois ! Je n’avais jamais réalisé à quel point le processus de coloration était complexe et scientifique jusqu’au jour où j’ai commencé ma formation de coiffeur et réalisé que la coloration était ma vocation. Il y a deux ans, j’ai suivi la formation de spécialiste en coloration de L’Oréal, que j’ai réussie avec brio. Un moment de grande fierté. Le métier de coloriste me permet d’exprimer ma vision sur le plan artistique.
Qu’est-ce qui te fascine le plus dans le travail de coloration ?
Les possibilités infinies ! Vous pouvez complètement changer la couleur de cheveux d’une personne, mais également sa personnalité et son caractère, pour lui donner plus d’assurance.
Qu’est-ce qui t’inspire ?
L’art et la mode essentiellement. Cependant, ces deux dernières années, j’ai développé une fascination accrue pour le style personnel des gens. En voyageant dans différentes villes, j’ai pu voir comment les gens se coiffent et s’expriment, ce qui a élargi ma perception de la culture. Je peux ainsi créer différentes combinaisons de couleurs et concevoir de nouvelles techniques.
Les tendances sont-elles utiles dans le domaine de la coloration ? C’est essentiel de se tenir au courant de ce qui se passe dans le monde pour pouvoir offrir le meilleur service à vos clients. Ils peuvent demander quelque chose qu’ils ont vu sur TikTok ou d’autres réseaux. J’ai la conviction que la satisfaction sera bien plus grande si l’on crée quelque chose spécialement adaptée à la personne. La philosophie du salon Trevor Sorbie ? Offrir un service artistique sur mesure.
JUST COLOUR 79
DANILO GIANGRECO
Danilo Giangreco ‘grew up’ in his father’s salon in Italy before moving to London and opening his own Danilo Hair Boutique. Accomplished in cut and colour, in 2020 he won The One for Your Client, and The Team One at The Big One awards.
Tell us about your discovery of colour?
My journey with colour began some 25 years ago when, knowing that I was into hairdressing, a girl I liked asked me to take her from blonde to brunette. Having little to no training in colour… let's just say she didn't speak to me for quite some time afterwards. That's when I understood that I had to focus on training and learn as much as possible about the science of colouring hair.
How do you describe your colour style?
My colour aesthetics are to keep it quite natural, subtle and organic. I like colours that really complement the client/model I'm working with.
What excites you about colour work?
The thing that excites me the most is the creativity and the vision that it takes to create a unique, bespoke colour. I think there is no greater teacher than nature, I love the way it perfectly combines colour, always in harmony and always on point! Often I get inspired by a picture of wild life or landscape, and try to translate it into a colour technique. I guess that's why I watch a lot of documentaries! I learn a lot online, I am constantly researching for new techniques to try, also my Revlon Professional family offers a great range of courses to keep my colouring skills fresh and sharp!
Do you think colour trends are valuable?
I think trends are great for industry growth and innovation. As new trends emerge, it pushes colourists to learn and adapt to new techniques and products, resulting in the development of new services and improved quality of hair care products.
Danilo Giangreco a « grandi » dans le salon de coiffure de son père en Italie avant de s’installer à Londres où il a ouvert son propre salon Danilo Hair Boutique. Doué pour les coupes et les couleurs, il est en train de se faire un nom, remportant des prix dans les deux domaines.
Comment as-tu découvert la coloration ?
Il y a environ 25 ans. Une fille que j’aimais bien et qui me savait passionné par la coiffure m’a demandé de transformer son brun en blond. Je n’avais que peu ou pas de formation dans le domaine. Disons simplement qu’après cela, elle ne m’a plus adressé la parole pendant un certain temps. J’ai alors compris que je devais me concentrer sur la formation et apprendre un maximum de choses sur la science de la coloration capillaire.
Comment décris-tu ton style ?
Je privilégie un résultat plutôt naturel, subtil et organique. J’aime les couleurs qui mettent vraiment en valeur la cliente ou le modèle dont je m’occupe.
Qu’est-ce qui te fascine dans le travail de coloration ?
Le sens créatif et la vision qu’il faut posséder pour concevoir une couleur unique et sur mesure. Observer la nature est la meilleure façon d’apprendre. J’adore la façon dont elle associe les couleurs ! Je trouve souvent l’inspiration en regardant un cliché qui représente la faune ou un paysage. Puis je tente de le retranscrire sous la forme d’une technique de coloration. J’imagine que c’est pour cela que je regarde tant de documentaires ! J’apprends beaucoup en ligne. Je ne cesse de chercher de nouvelles techniques. D’ailleurs, ma famille Revlon propose un large choix de formations pour maintenir mes compétences en coloration au plus haut niveau !
Les tendances sont-elles utiles en coloration ?
Les tendances sont importantes pour le développement et l’innovation. L’émergence des tendances encourage les coloristes à se former et à s’adapter aux nouvelles techniques et aux nouveaux produits. Cela permet de mettre au point des services inédits et d’améliorer la qualité des produits de soins capillaires.
80
JUST COLOUR
EMMANUEL ESTEBAN
Emmanuel Esteban's unrivalled signature style has earned him The Big One trophy 2020, and the ultimate accolade: the AIPP 2022-2023 Grand Trophy. This hairdressing prodigy left his home in Ariège, France several years ago to settle in the UK. After being trained by Anne Veck, he's now with a luxury salon in London.
What achievements have made you proud?
I'm very proud of the capsule collection created for the Haute Coiffure Française, which was chosen as the overall winner of the AIPP trophy.
What is your speciality/signature style?
My style, I think, is organic work whether it's in an avant-garde style, as I like to express my creativity, or in my editorial and commercial work. I like the fact that hair is not set in stone, as a material it is organised and shaped. That’s probably my French side.
What motivates you the most in colour?
The unexpected, the natural, the impossible. Trying to create new things, always organic and natural.
What inspires you? Do you have a mentor?
Being self-taught, I haven't had a 'mentor' who taught me what I know, but I'm lucky enough to have friends who are famous hairdressers like Christophe Gaillet, Richard Ashforth and Jorge Cancer. I ask them for advice when I need it. As far as my inspiration is concerned, it can come from anywhere, depending above all on the emotions at the time.
Do you follow colour trends?
A lot. I follow new trends to inform myself and educate myself, not techniques that have been trendy since the 80s and 90s like Californian highlights and the like.
Emmanuel Esteban brille par son style signature inégalé qui lui a valu la récompense suprême : le Grand Trophée AIPP 2022-2023. Ce prodige de la coiffure a quitté son Ariège natale il y a plusieurs années pour poser ses valises à Londres. Après avoir été formé par Anne Veck, il a rejoint un salon de coiffure de luxe qu’il dirige aujourd’hui. Un succès dû à un travail acharné, mais plus que payant.
Quelles sont les réalisations qui t’ont rendu fier ?
En ce moment, forcément, je suis très fier de la collection capsule créée pour la Haute Coiffure Française car elle a été choisie comme grande gagnante du trophée AIPP.
Quel est ton style signature ?
Mon style, je pense, est un travail organique, que ce soit dans un style avantgarde, comme j'aime exprimer ma créativité, mais aussi dans mon travail éditorial et commercial. J'aime que le cheveu ne soit pas figé, que la matière soit organisée et travaillée. Sans doute mon côté frenchy.
Qu’est-ce qui te motive dans la coloration ?
L'inattendu, le naturel, l'impossible. Essayer de créer de nouvelle choses, toujours organiques et naturelles.
Où puises-tu ton inspiration ? As-tu un mentor ?
Étant autodidacte, je n'ai pas eu de « mentor » qui m'a appris ce que je sais, mais j'ai la chance d'avoir des amis qui sont de grand coiffeurs reconnus, comme Christophe Gaillet, Richard Ashforth, Jorge Cancer et à qui je demande conseils quand j'ai besoin. Pour mon inspiration, elle peut venir de n'importe où. Tout dépend surtout des émotions du moment.
Suis-tu les tendances en matière de coloration ?
Beaucoup, les nouvelles pour m'informer, me cultiver, et non pas par des techniques qui sont tendance depuis les années 1980-90 comme le balayage californien et autres.
JUST COLOUR 81
BERNI OTTJES
Global ambassador for L'Oréal Professionnel, Berni Ottjes travels the world for the brand. He also runs an academy and a private salon in Antwerp, Belgium.
What is your speciality in colour?
In my opinion, creativity in colour must take consumers into account and nurture the link that connects us to them. I strive to create hair that is easy to wear, beautiful and sexy. That's my signature. I have a strong taste for beautiful colour combinations and that's my strength. Beautiful mixes of colour, highlights... I have a penchant for green and blue tones without going to extremes.
What excites you the most in colour?
Above all, innovation and the development of new products in recent years. If you master your techniques and products well, you can really work magic with colour, like changing your customer's personality. In summer, I like more airy, transparent colours, beautiful blondes and pearly tones. In winter, I move towards greater depth and dimension.
What inspires you?
I draw inspiration from my travels and from people in the street. For me, this is where trends are set. I also immerse myself in nature and everything that happens around me. It's important to rest to stay creative. I'm always on the lookout for new collections and techniques. From time to time, you need to take a step back to improve and refine your creativity.
What do you think of colour trends?
Trends are born out of life, the street and colour product launches. I don't think we should follow trends because they rarely apply to all customers. You're only as good as your last hair colour. The technical aspect is fundamental. Keep training to improve your skills. Your signature style will evolve and you can easily customise your looks for your customers!
Ambassadeur mondial pour L'Oréal Professional, Berni Ottjes parcourt le monde pour la marque. Il dirige également une académie et un salon privé à Anvers.
Quelle est ta spécialité en coloration ?
À mes yeux, la créativité en couleur doit prendre en compte les consommateurs et conserver ce lien qui nous lie à eux. Je m'efforce de créer des cheveux faciles à porter, beaux et sexy. C'est ma signature. Je garde un goût prononcé pour de belles combinaisons de couleurs, c'est ma force. De beaux mélanges de couleurs, des balayages… J’ai un penchant pour les tons verts et bleus sans tomber dans l’extrême.
Qu'est-ce qui te passionne dans la couleur ?
Surtout l'innovation et le développement ces dernières années, de nouveaux produits. Si vous maîtrisez bien vos techniques et vos produits, vous pouvez vraiment faire de la magie avec la couleur, comme changer la personnalité de votre client. En été, j’aime les couleurs plus aériennes et transparentes, de beaux blonds et des tons nacrés. En hiver, je m’oriente vers plus de profondeur et de dimensions.
Où puises-tu ton inspiration ?
Je me nourris de mes nombreux voyages, des gens dans la rue. Pour moi, c’est là où se jouent les tendances. Je m'imprègne également de la nature et de tout ce qui se passe autour de moi. Pour rester créatif, il est important de se reposer. Je suis toujours à l’affût de nouvelles collections et techniques. De temps en temps, il faut prendre un peu de recul pour améliorer et affiner sa créativité.
Que penses-tu des tendances en matière de couleurs ?
Les tendances naissent de la vie, de la rue et des lancements de produits de coloration. Je ne pense pas qu'il faille suivre les tendances, car elles s'appliquent rarement à tous les clients. Vous ne valez que ce que vaut votre dernière coloration. L'aspect technique est fondamental. Continuez à vous former afin de vous perfectionner. De cette manière, votre signature évoluera et vous pourrez facilement personnaliser vos looks pour vos clients !
82 JUST COLOUR
PORTFOLIO
We have picked the best current collections for you, the ones turning heads n the industry. There is plenty to inspire and excite you.
Nous avons sélectionné pour vous les collections du moment, qui font battre le cœur de notre industrie. De quoi vous inspirer et vous faire rêver.
See more…
Hair: Viva la Vie
Photographer: Jules Egger
Hair: Kerrie Di Mattia
Photographer: Amber Toms | Make-up: Bill Fitzpatrick | Styling: Candice Battersby
Post Production: Peter Orlik
Hair: Jesus Oliver with Rino Ricci
Photographer: Chris Bulezuik | MUA: Grace Hayward | Styling: Lewis Robert Cameron
Hair: Fellowship FAME Team 2023 | Art direction: Sally Brooks
Photographer: Jack Eames| Make-up: Maddie Austin | Fashion: Ashley Conor
Hair: Sonya Bloemhard
Photographer: Berni Ottjes | Make-up: Kimberly van Hoorn | Styling: Sonya Bloemhard | Products: L'Oréal Professionnel
Hair & Art Direction: Claude Tarantino
Photographer: Jules Egger | Products: L'Oréal Professionnel | Tools: Mizutani
Hair: Arjan Bevers
Photographer: Ivo de Kok | Make-up: Mireille Bevers Brunt | Styling: Annet Veerbeek | Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
Hair: Emma Simmons
Photographer: Andrew O’Toole | Make-up: Megumi Matsuno | Styling: Anna Latham
Hair: Alfredo Valero for Blades Hair Studio
Photographer: David Arnal | Make-up: Blades Hair Studio team | Styling: Alfredo Valero
Hair:Mark Van Westerop
Photographer: Sanne Grasdijk | Make-up:Angelique Stapelbroek | Products: Keune Haircosmetics
Hair: Nathan Yazbek
Photographer: Andrew O’Toole | Make-up: Chereine Waddell | Styling: Catherine V
Hair: Berni Ottjes
Photographer: Ivo de Kok | Make-up: Kimberly van Hoorn | Styling: Bjorn van den Berg
Hair: : Billi Currie Collective Team
Photographer: Tanaz Ghaffarsedeh | Make-up: Georgia Louise
Hair: Marc Antoni Artistic Team
Photographer: Jamie Blanshard
|
Make-up: Katie Moore
|
Styling: Ellen Spiller
Hair: Christophe Gaillet
Photographer: Maros Belavy | Make-up: Martyna Molenda | Production: MK Production
Products: L’Oréal Professionnel
CULTURE
Plenty to talk about, visit and do this Autumn. Here are ideas for yourself or to share with your clients
See more…
MUST HAVE / MUST SEE / MUST GO
Plenty to talk about, visit and do this Autumn. Here are ideas for yourself or to share with your clients…go in person or investigate online! All handpicked for you by the Tribu-te team
1/ Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto
Victoria & Albert Museum, London until 25 February 2024
Better known as Coco, Gabrielle Chanel is literally a style icon. Much anticipated, the Fashion Manifesto exhibition at the V&A is dedicated to the work of this French couturiere. The exhibition explores the establishment of the house of Chanel and how the brand continues to impact contemporary beauty and fashion. Watch out for glorious photography, including images of Marylin Monroe (who famously slept wearing only Chanel no5) and Gabrielle Chanel herself. Enjoy the timeless elegance of the decades' hairstyles which are still referenced today. And the clothes! Look back is a fabulous way to find inspiration for today.
2/ A Haunting in Venice
On general release since September 2023
An Agatha Christie book adaptation is always a good idea, especially when it has fabulous costumes, mise-en-scene and hair and beauty looks. We’re impressed by A Haunting in Venice which features author Dame Agatha Christie’s recurring character Detective Hercule Poirot investigating a murder while attending a Halloween seance in Venice, Italy. This is an adaptation of Agatha’s 1969 book, Hallowe’en Party, and is showing in cinemas all over the UK. Accessible to all –discuss the story… obsess over the costumes and hair!
3/ Armet Francis: Beyond The Black Triangle
Autograph gallery, London EC2A until 20 January 2024
An exhibition showing a photographic mission by Armet Francis spanning 40 years: To document and celebrate the experience of African diaspora cultures. Armet Francis immigrated to Britain in the late 1950s from Jamaica, subsequently turning to photography to share and connect with the Pan-African world. Armet is known for his social documentary, advertising and fashion images. Some of his work includes fashion shoots at the Brixton market circa the 70s. In 1969 he began working on a now celebrated project, The Black Triangle: People of the African Diaspora and Children of the Black Triangle. Here is an update.
4/ Retrospective exhibition by Iris Van Herpen
Musée des Arts décoratifs, Paris, from November, 2023
A tribute to the Dutch designer, who is celebrating the 15th anniversary of her eponymous fashion house. Made famous by her sculptural, futuristic collections, Iris Van Herpen notably carried off the coveted ANDAM award in 2014. Her 3D-printed dresses, laser-cutting and other innovative technologies will be in the spotlight! NB Bravo to Antoinette Beenders who most recently worked on the AW23 Paris show with fabulous hair to support the striking designs...
5/ Les Couleurs de la mode
Palais Galliera, Paris, until 15 March, 2024
An amazing exhibition dedicated to the collection of autochrome plates kept at the Musée des Arts et Métiers museum in Paris. These images on glass plates were achieved through a colour photography process based on dyed potato starch grains. They were displayed as transparencies, like stained-glass windows. The presentation of these unique works brings to us a new interpretation of fashion in the early 1920s.
6/ Bridgerton
Netflix series
Is there really anyone who hasn't seen this hit series that we are all mad about? Casting a side-eye at history this is a fiction fantasy that embraces Regency England with a smile. We love the costumes and the hairstyles which transport us to an alternative history in which we would have liked to live. A follow-on (series 3) about Queen Charlotte goes bonkers with the young Charlotte’s incredible wigs making for a storyline which may be slightly less addictive than previous series but is glorious for the hair. These wigs are the work of Marc Pilcher (who died in 2021) and Lynda J Pearce. Their work earned them a nomination at the Make-Up Artists & Hair Stylists Guild Awards.
116
117 1 2 3 4 5 6
DESIGN
Gorgeous salons from Europe to put you in the mood for being surrounded by lovely furniture and decor at work!
See more…
EISENACH (GERMANY)
NADINE HORNAFF HAAR & HAUT EXPERTEN
A chic and minimalist vibe for this salon in Germany focusing on two soothing colours. Brown can be found echoed in the leather chairs, the wood parquet flooring and furniture plus the choice of towels. White goes perfectly with the salon’s La Biosthétique products. A place designed for them. The green of plants discreetly energises this interior without disturbing its sense of tranquillity. The whole is modern and airy. The wall opening ensures communication and connection between the cut and wash areas. The uncluttered mirrors slide elegantly into the interior without obstructing the perspective. A salon conducive to relaxation.
Ambiance chic et minimaliste pour ce salon en Allemagne, construit autour de deux couleurs apaisantes. Le marron qui se retrouve en écho dans le cuir des fauteuils, le bois du parquet et du mobilier, et le choix des serviettes. Le blanc sur lequel s’intègrent parfaitement les produits de La Biosthétique. Un lieu conçu pour eux. Des touches végétales, discrètes, viennent animer cet intérieur sans en troubler la quiétude. L’espace se veut moderne et aéré. La percée dans le mur permet la respiration et la communication entre les lieux de coupe et de shampooing. Les miroirs au design épuré viennent se glisser dans la décoration sans obstruer la ligne de fuite. Un salon propice à la détente.
120
DESIGN
ADVANCED COLOURING
ACCELERATE YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS WITH TAKARA BELMONT.
TRANSFORM COLOUR OUTCOMES AND UPGRADE YOUR COLOUR TECHNOLOGY WITH 0% FINANCE LEASE
Every salon business knows just how important colour is to maximise income and profit, but also to make clients look and feel sensational. With colour blocking set to dominate this autumn’s colour trend, create more vivid transformations, that are up to 2 x more vibrant, while also reducing development time by up to 75%!
As world-leading innovators of processing technology, Takara Belmont’s Roller Ball F and Spa Mist II not only transform colour experiences and results, they also allow you to accommodate more clients in your appointment schedule to boost incomes.
Additionally, as these intuitive processors require minimal training, you can introduce
these technologies quickly and easily to upscale every colour service in no time.
Furthermore, with 0%, zero deposit Finance Lease, there’s never been a better time to upgrade your processing technology in the most affordable and tax efficient way.
Roller Ball F
With its distinctive, rotating, infrared carbon ring, Roller Ball F halves colour processing time while intensifying vibrancy, durability, and lustre. Energy efficient and convenient, wall-mounted or free-standing mobile versions allow for greater space efficiency while enabling your salon to increase colour bookings by saving time for you and your clients.
Spa Mist II
Create atmospheric hair and scalp care experiences as Spa Mist II’s ultra-fine microscopic mist envelops your client in a luxurious warming sensation while actively improving colour outcomes. Its ultrasonic technology opens the cuticle layer at low temperatures, allowing for deeper penetration of colour pigments and treatments as its cool shot feature seals the ingredients in.
To maximise productivity, upgrade to Takara Belmont’s equipment and haircare technology. To learn more about 0%, zero deposit finance please visit www.takarahairdressing.co.uk
121 DESIGN
SPECIAL PROMOTION
122 DESIGN
/
PARIS
VÉGÉTALEMENT PROVENCE
Végétalement Provence is a botanical beauty brand specialising in hair and skin science, the leading light of the Universal Beauty Group. It has opened a Parisian flagship store in the heart of the Marais. This new 2,100 square-foot space has three different areas: a store where visitors can discover and buy the brand’s products; a hair salon where customers can relax and enjoy their excellent treatments; and a training area for professionals. A bold project that is the vision of the innovative founder and chairman, Jean-Marc Delabre, who continues to shake up the rules for hair and skin care.
Végétalement Provence, marque de soins botaniques spécialisée dans la science du cheveu et de la peau, fer de lance du groupe Universal Beauty Groupe, ouvre son flagship parisien en plein cœur du Marais. Ce nouvel écrin de 200 m2 se compose de trois espaces différents : un espace de vente, où les visiteurs pourront découvrir et acheter les produits de la marque ; un salon de coiffure où les clients pourront se détendre et profiter d’une prestation d’excellence ; un espace formation pour accueillir les professionnels. Un projet audacieux qui résulte de la vision innovante de son fondateur et président, Jean-Marc Delabre, qui continue ainsi de révolutionner les codes du secteur du cheveu et de la peau.
123
DESIGN
You will find genius colourist Pierre Carli’s hidden gem of a salon at the back of a Parisian courtyard. The space has a contemporary vibe, the key words being expertise, simplicity and relaxation. Designed by Nouvelles Substances, it’s like taking a stroll through a graphic landscape; a tribute to the hairdresser’s native Provence. There’s dazzling lavender blue, bathed in the gentle ochre light of the setting sun and the symbolism of an olive tree for peace and tranquillity. The backwash has the Fly, the iconic chair from Italian brand Palladium. And you will also find the no less essential Mademoiselle chair by Cinderella. Elegance and simplicity. Very poetic.
Situé au fond d’une cour parisienne, voici un écrin bien caché pour le coloriste de génie Pierre Carli. L’espace se veut contemporain dont les maîtres-mots sont expertise, simplicité et décontraction. Cet espace signé par les designers de Nouvelles Substances est une véritable balade graphique, ode à la Provence natale du coiffeur : un bleu lavande éclatant, baigné dans la douceur de l’ocre du soleil couchant, et la symbolique de l’olivier pour la paix et la quiétude. La zone de bacs intègre le Fly, iconique de la marque italienne Palladium. On remarque aussi le non moins indispensable fauteuil Mademoiselle de Cindarella. Élégance et sobriété, tout un poème.
124
DESIGN
125
DESIGN
PARIS / PIERRE CARLI
Berni Ottjes’s name is synonymous with colour. The Dutch hairdresser and colourist is known all over the world as a Global Ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel. With his commercial partner Danny Griffioen, he is the entrepreneur and driving force behind Burny’s Hair & Spa, a salon with a unique concept in a magnificently restored church in Axel. He recently embodied his new concept in a medieval building oozing with the atmosphere of Antwerp’s fashion district; it’s a splendid salon-store that is also home to a colour academy. The big mirrors on easels and wall paintings show off the 19th century building to perfection. A genuine oasis of tranquillity.
Qui dit couleur, dit Berni Ottjes. Le coiffeur et coloriste néerlandais est connu dans le monde entier en tant que Global Ambassador de L’Oréal Professionnel. Entrepreneur, il est, avec son partenaire commercial Danny Griffioen, la force motrice de Burny’s Hair & Spa : un salon au concept unique situé dans une église magnifiquement restaurée à Axel. Il a récemment implanté ce nouveau concept dans un bâtiment médiéval en plein quartier de la mode à Anvers : un salonboutique splendide, combiné à une Colour Academy. Les grands miroirs sur chevalets et les peintures murales mettent en valeur le bâtiment du XIXe siècle. Une véritable oasis de tranquillité.
126 DESIGN
© Dennis van Akkeren/Deep Kreativ
127 DESIGN ANTWERP / BERNI OTTJES
A magnificent planted wall welcomes us and sets the tone: natural and elegant. Take a look at this 2,000 square-foot salon with its uncluttered, smart décor. Owner Magali Dondon wanted the space to be as unencumbered as possible. She worked with a specialist in interior design, Yseo Paris, and the furniture brand Gamma & Bross. The result certainly meets her expectations. The retail area and styling section at the entrance to the salon were custom-designed to perfectly integrate the space. The salon’s colours are gentle and restful. A few details here and there add an ethnic feel: the straw wall decorations, the vases on the floor and the pampa grass. An invitation to relax.
Un magnifique mur végétal nous accueille et nous annonce la couleur : du naturel et de l’élégance. Parcourez ce salon de 200 m2 à la décoration chic et épurée. La propriétaire, Magali Dondon, a souhaité le moins d’encombrement possible. Elle s’est fait accompagner par la société Yseo Paris, spécialisée dans l’aménagement, et la marque de mobilier Gamma & Bross. Un résultat à la hauteur de ses attentes. La partie retail et le poste de coiffage à l’entrée du salon ont été conçus sur mesure pour s’intégrer parfaitement à l’espace. Les couleurs sont douces et reposantes. Quelques détails ici et là ajoutent une touche ethnique. Une invitation à la relaxation.
128 DESIGN
© Vincent Hurdequint
129 DESIGN PARIS / MISS MAG
Thank you
You made this possible
Crazy Color
Revlon Professional
Alfaparf Milano
Great Lengths
L'Oréal Professionnel
Davines
Takara Belmont
Diva Pro
Joico
Oribe
Schwarzkopf Professional
Alterna
Aveda
Oway
FFØR
Authentic Beauty Concept