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WEDNESDAY, JUNE 20, 2018
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RESTAURANT REVIEW
DURHAM’S NAMU Greg Cox for Triangle Today
Tucked away in Straw Valley, a small commercial complex in a miniature forest of hardwood trees and tall bamboo, Namu is not a place you’re likely to stumble across by accident. If you do go looking for it, you’ll find yourself thinking you need a treasure map to supplement your GPS. (Hint: The entrance is on Durham-Chapel Hill Boulevard side of the building.) Persevere. When you do walk through the door, you’ll feel as if you’ve stumbled on the Shangri-La of restaurant settings. Muted earth tones, lots of natural wood and greenery, and the clean lines of the mid-century modern structure set a serene mood for a maze of rooms surrounding a glass-enclosed interior courtyard. For those who find the zen of the space compromised by the glowing apples on the backs of laptops (Namu is part-Korean restaurant, part-coffee shop), a sprawling, secluded patio — complete with koi pond — beckons. The menu, listed on a large chalkboard behind the order counter, is a mix of traditional and contemporary Korean fare. There’s also a varied selection of Counter Culture coffee drinks, teas and Korean sodas, and a small but well-chosen selection of beers and wines on a separate printed menu.
You’ll find most of the traditional dishes grouped under the “Han Saang” heading (literally, “one table,” a reference to the Korean custom of sharing a meal family-style). Think of these as shareable small plates — or, to be precise, small paper trays. Korean barbecue is well-represented, and a worthy option even if you don’t get to cook it yourself. I’m partial to the galbi (short ribs), but I wouldn’t say no to any of the bulgogi (beef, spicy pork or chicken). Mandoo, Korea’s answer to potstickers, are another good bet. So are seafood pancakes, which are smaller than is typically served in restaurants but every bit as rewarding. A classic Bibimbap is one of Namu’s best sellers, and deservedly so. By all means, round out your meal with both kinds Juli Leonard of kimchi on offer: the familiar spicy red version and a tangy, bracing white kimchi. As long as you’re at it, spring for orders of spicy edamame, seasoned bean sprouts and geem (toasted nori) for a D-I-Y banchan. Namu Venture over to the other side of the menu, labeled “Namu Dish,” for entree-size portions, and a walk on the wild side. Here you’ll find Korean barbecue served up in everything from tacos to something called kimchi bul-fries: your choice of bulgogi served nacho style over waffle fries, topped with pan-fried kimchi, a fried egg and spicy aioli.
a refreshing take on Korean cuisine 5420 Durham-Chapel Hill Blvd., Durham 919-251-9794 facebook.com/Namu-Durham-713409472154505/ Read more at triangletoday.com.