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issue September 2011

The Magical of



Halong Bay Sailing on The Ombak Putih

Komodo & Beyond


And The Stories Goes On...








Addict to Leisure

TREASURE 12 Sailing on The Ombak Putih Komodo & Beyond

24 The Magical of Berau, East Borneo 32 Dancing in The Baliem Valley Festival 2011

42 A Beach all its own


september 2011


Addict to

Face 62 Johanes (Joe Chang) Addict to

Culture 72 Mexico City’s Best Market: el Mercado Jamaica

Addict to

Shop 74 Colline Haley

Addict to Leisure

VOYAGE 46 Heavenly Halong Bay 52 7Days Caribbean Dream


Addict to

EXCLUSIVE 8 How to 9/11 changed the way we travel


CONTRIBUTORS KIA ORA* After the holy month of Ramadan in August, Travel Addict is back on the ride again. Speaking of our September issue, Travel Addict Magazine comes on a new twist in the form of presentation such as layout(s) and contents – It all wrapped up as a whole package that’s bringing you a taste of freshness! Yes, Better yet, on this month issue, we raised the headline theme of “Remembering the tragedy 9/11”- this particularly article is entitled An Unimaginable Experience and something never forgotten in New York City. We should all pray for God’s hand of protection of peacefulness around the world! May we never forget what happened on that fateful day ten years ago. I hope you will take a few minutes to read it and join me in reflecting on 9/11 and the impact it has had on our society as well as in term of travel matter. On the other hand, we tried to sail away to some exotic islands in Archipelago, included several overseas destinations from Komodo, Halong Bay until up to Caribbean seas. Also, we feature full story on amazing Baliem Valley Festival 2011. Oh well, I guess I don’t need to talk too much. Just sit back and relax to read our September issue. Do not forget to visit our new website on www. – It has been special created to all our beloved mother tongue readers in Bahasa Indonesia. Once again, welcome to the September Ceria with open wide arms and Keep on addict all the time, Bon voyage!! *) Kia Ora is the way how to say Hello in Maori language in New Zealand.

Editor in Chief Vembry Dwitama

MASTHEAD CEO Gisele Simatupang Managing Director Reza A Siregar

Cover Story Tribute in Light on Night Sky Photo by

Editor in Chief Vembry Dwitama Editor Henny D Siregar Contributors Dough Bardwell StephanienBrookes Evi Aryanti Arbay Jarot Achid Alvian Jim Johnston Creative & Design Wawan Ismanto Head of Marketing Communication Bonariyanto Marketing Promotion & Distribution Sofie Social Media & Public Relations Vembry Dwitama Photographers Wawan Ismanto

Travel Addict Magazine is published monthly by PT EOS Multindomedia. While the editors do their utmost to verify information published, they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accurancy. All rights in this publication are owned by PT EOS Multindomedia The opinions expressed herein are of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of PT EOS Multindomedia.

Publisher PT EOS Multindomedia Golden Plaza Blok E-11, Lt. 3 Jl. RS Fatmawati Raya No. 15 Indonesia12430 Telp. +6221 7591 2977 Fax. +6221 7591 2978 Printed PT Printindo Utama

Let us know your thoughts by sending your Opinion & Suggestion to and chance to get a free goodie bag from us. And if you have a passion as a Travel Writer please do not hesitate to send your great stories + photos to The chosen will be published and get a special holiday package from us.


August 2011

DOUG BARDWELL is a former corporate road-warrior who now travels the planet with camera and notebook. He is a member of the International Travel Writers Alliance, and is based outside of Cleveland, Ohio, USA. In addition to travel, Doug writes about travel technology, photography and commercial real estate. He also publishes his own travel & photography blog – The TravelingTripod. com. His work has been published worldwide; in newspapers, magazines, books and has been seen on television.

STEPHANIE BROOKES is a freelance travel writer with a passion for travel, adventure

JAROT ACHID ALVIAN I am a 20 years old student from one of the university in Yogyakarta. There is also where I live, as you know that Yogyakarta has filled with the image of a high traditional Javanese culture and warm smiling hospitality of the people itself. I’d always be interested in travel & tourism, photography and designs. By visiting new places I could feel how amazing the world is, and appreciated what god has been given to all of us.

JIM JOHNSTON born in new york city, jim johnston grew up in the woods of new hampshire. After studying architecture at the university of virginia and graphic design at the school of visual arts, he worked as a professional artist and potter in new york city for 27 years. He moved to mexico in 1997, where he continues working as an artist and writer.

and exploring the far corners of the world. From train journeys across Asia to wildlife safaris in Kalimantan and Komodo her published writing has appeared in The Jakarta Post, Ex Pat Living, The Peak, Luxury Holidays, Corporate Travel and Hello Bali.Stephanie now lives in Brisbane, Australia and is planning on a return to Indonesia later this year.

Evi Aryati Arbay was born in Jakarta. She has an educational background of an accountant & works as a civil servant, but has a huge passion for adventure. She loves traveling a lot, especially to some remote areas in East Indonesia. With some of her friends, she found a trip operator called Indonesia Trip Advisor. Besides visiting many places in Indonesia, she also has experiences of going to some places in Asia and Europe. However, she still thinks that Indonesia is the best tourism destination compared to other places in this world, although she admits that there are still some area of improvements in Indonesia’s tourism.

How 9/11

Changed the Way We Travel Words by: Judith Damon

hile so much has changed in America since the Sept. 11, 2001 terrorist attacks, arguably the greatest alteration to our way of life came in the way we travel. Nearly 3,000 lives were lost when four commercial airliners were fashioned as missiles by terrorists against the U.S., something mostly unthinkable at the time. A decade later, increased security at airports is commonplace, a certain lack of privacy is demanded, and we have given up many of our freedoms for the sake of that very word. The U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA) didn’t even exist before 9/11. The now-ubiquitous organization was actually created in the wake of the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, to strengthen the security of the nation’s transportation systems by the Aviation and Transportation Security Act, passed by the 107th Congress in November of 2001. Before 9/11, airport security was contracted out to private companies.The TSA was created to do three things: take responsibility for all modes of transportation;


september 2011

recruit, assess, hire, train and deploy security officers for 450 commercial airports from Guam to Alaska within 12 months; and provide 100 percent screening of all checked luggage for explosives by Dec. 31, 2002.Now, 50,000 TSA officers screen nearly two million air travelers each day. Air Travel: A Complete Routine Make-Over Air travel has seen a complete makeover in the past 10 years for better or worse.A lot of what’s changed goes on behind the scenes. The TSA has multiple layers of security operation every day, including Federal Marshals on aircraft, hardened cockpit doors, and even behavior detection officers. In the past decade alone, the TSA detected 50 million prohibited items, including 5,000 firearms on passengers attempting to board planes. Of course, all of this comes with a price.The TSA is constantly struggling to strike the right balance between what technology is capable of, and what the public is willing to accept.

ADDICT TO EXCLUSIVE “When reading (and writing) about travel, sometimes it feels like travel is all nuts and bolts -- passports and shoes, fare searches and car rental bidding. In truth, it’s not even close. Nonetheless, for my part, I will keep placing calls to the TSA asking about new policies, and will report them back to you. I will keep trying to find ways for us all to remain global citizens, and to get out and see our own incredible country. And as always, as I did on 14 flights this summer between our benchmark holidays of Memorial Day, when we honor and remember the people who defend our country, and Labor Day, when we honor and remember the people who live and work here, I will refuse to live in fear. I’ll dump my water and take off my shoes until together we figure out a better way. And above all, I’ll ...”

These days, we are subjected to the occasional pat down, revealing body scans, and a small-scale strip down at the security check. We remove our shoes and belts, and place small quantities of liquids in plastic bags. While this can be aggravating, looking back, it seems rather bizarre that items like box cutters were ever allowed on planes. But they were for years before 9/11. Before, your wife could escort you to the gate without a boarding pass. Now, that is unheard of.Some things we don’t even think much about. For instance, the TSA created large spaces, often installing “mood” lighting to create a calm, stress-free environment in airports. In this environment, it’s easier for officers to pinpoint potential threats. Extra Security Increased Flying Costs A lot has changed in 10 years, and we’re actually paying for the changes.For each leg of a journey that requires you to board a

plane, you now pay a $2.50 September 11th Security Fee, which goes toward financing the TSA’s staff, operations and screening equipment. Last year, airlines and passengers contributed $2 billion in taxes and fees to the TSA, and there is a proposal in front of Congress to double the September 11th Security Fee to $5 per enplanement.Some changes were less direct, but forever changed our experience in the sky. Because several airlines flirted with bankruptcy post-Sept. 11, airlines instituted revenue-boosting measures like fees for checked bags and fuel surcharges. They also reduced the number of flights, crammed in more seats, and cut out complimentary snacks and beverages. The customer experience inevitably suffered. In a private economic survey released by the American Customer Satisfaction Index (ACSI) in June, airlines had the lowest rating of any industry group, just beating out the Federal Government and subscription TV providers.The impact is certainly felt.


According to a Cornell study on “The Impact of Post-9/11 Airport Security Measures on the Demand for Air Travel,” there has been a small, but noticeable decline in air traffic that has cost the industry an estimated $1.1 billion, according to the paper’s co-author Garrick Blalock.”Clearly, no one likes to be inconvenienced,” he noted.For all of our inconveniences, the truth of the matter remains that in the decade since the 9/11 attacks, there has not been another successful act of terrorism. Furthermore, according to statistics, there are fewer cancellations and mishandled bags than there were ten years ago.Most Americans appear willing to accept the additional hassle, forgo the complimentary snacks, and arrive hours before their flight to sit alone at the gate. It’s the price we have learned to pay to feel safe in our post-9/11 world.

Years Later: The Lessons and Promises of 9/11

Words by: Ed Howard

Ten years ago this Sunday, I rose very early to get a bunch of work done before heading to the beach to go surfing. I had worked right through the preceding Labor Day weekend, a swell had risen overnight and I wanted to grab a half-day off in the surf before the autumn working pace really picked up again. My phone buzzed several times on the drive to the beach at Sandy Hook, NJ, but it wasn’t until I arrived that I listened to my voice mail and learned that a plane had crashed in New York City. At that point radio stations were still playing music, and no one really understood what had happened. Over the next hour or so, I walked to the end of the New Jersey coast, and with a very small group of other folks, watched the Twin Towers come down. We didn’t know it at the time, as we could see only huge columns of smoke and ash, but it was a chilling sight. Without the facts of the story, I had no idea a terrorist attack had occurred, and I got in the ocean. But when I got out beyond the whitewater, alone and quiet, I became utterly overwhelmed with concern for friends and family. I took one wave then headed for the beach and for home. My experience was later written up in Surfer Magazine, with a follow-up this past month. Over the coming days, I maintained a list of members of the rowing community who had survived or been lost in the attacks. Just two days after the towers fell, I went back into New York City, where I had lived for over a decade, and ventured to what would soon be called Ground Zero to see for myself the carnage the attacks had wrought. I lasted about an hour; when veteran Marines on the scene started running for cover as small explosions went off, I knew it was time for me to get out of there.


september 2011

Security in an Insecure Time The weekend after the attacks, I was sitting in an acoustically sealed studio for a live radio interview on National Public Radio with one other guest one of many post-9/11 interviews I did as a travel writer for this Web site. To close the show, the interviewer asked if we should expect more or similar attacks. The other guest strongly believed that we should, and in particular felt that our train system was next. For some reason I felt less alarmed and less worried; it seemed to me that the targets of the Twin Towers attack were dramatic and incredibly symbolic, and I simply did not think that we were going to start seeing attacks on trains to Hartford, CT, or casino buses to Atlantic City. In truth, I was concerned but still somewhat calm about the dangers terrorism brought to our previously innocent shores, in a country that had not seen significant war-related bloodshed on our own soil for many decades. No matter how dramatic the attacks, and how absolutely real the sense of vulnerability, I wasn’t sure we were in more danger than people living in Europe 60 years previously, a place such as Northern Ireland a couple decades before or even contemporary Central America. These cunningly evil attacks left a giant wound, and I certainly felt less safe, but somehow not more truly vulnerable -- maybe just more aware of the dangers of the 21st century, faced by many worldwide. And I credit our great country for the luxury of that feeling; 10 years on, the feeling has not abandoned me. But the other speaker had a point that none of us could have realized at the time, long before the creation of the Homeland Security Department and the TSA. What we have done with our transit system since then is telling -- almost no one can get on a commercial plane with even a half-bottle of water, but absolutely anyone can get on a train/bus/boat, fly a private plane or drive a truck across a giant bridge with just about anything you can imagine on their person. Even if you believe, as many do, that what we have at the airport is “Security Theater” rather than meaningful measures to keep us safe, it’s hard to believe that no potential attacks were discouraged by the difficulty of getting into an airport terminal. So a miserable and chronically late short flight with 50 passengers is mostly safe from terrorists, but a packed Acela train is not. The Spirit of 9/11 This summer, I took 14 long-haul flights, both across the country and overseas. On my last flight of the summer, I saw the movie “Easy Rider.” It’s a strange movie, but certainly an American movie, and at the end the main character, thinking back on their trip across the country, says to his traveling buddy, “We blew it.” He felt that they had an opportunity to

realize some sort of transcendence from traversing their country, but instead they had focused on lucre, and failed to tap into the lessons the country had to offer. In our own trip into the heart of the 21st century, we still have a chance not to blow it, if we remember the days after September 11, when many countries were ready to stand down from their tremendously expensive Olympics bid efforts and simply concede the 2012 Games to New York City, so that it might heal; when the reciprocal notion of “Ich bin en Berliner” -- the idea that the whole was with us, was one of us -- was something that people felt about America; when anyone would have extended a helping hand to us, the world’s only remaining superpower. Everyone has a 9/11 story; they know where they were, what they were doing, what they were thinking. Think back on your own story, back to that moment and what you felt at the time. Many Americans felt a strong sense of community, of country, of fellowship -- somehow we have forgotten those feelings. But how? At the time, it felt like they would never leave us. As a frequent traveler and a travel writer, I have spent part of almost every day researching or thinking or writing about some aspect of the fallout of those attacks. Somehow, the sense that we were all in it together has gone missing; if we work hard enough to capture the quicksilver sense of things we had in those difficult days, we can recover that sense of community, of being together, of pride in who we are and how we treat people. If you remembered to hold your loved ones a little bit closer, let’s remember those things. If on that day, you lived not so much in fear, but in empathy and sympathy for your countrymen, let’s remember those things. In the hardest times, every great nation has rallied to help each other, not to attack each other. Let’s allow that to be the spirit of 9/11, not fear, hate and terror.

Remembering My heart goes out to all who have been affected in any way by the tragic events of 9/11. I remember getting ready for work that morning with the television on seeing the planes hit the towers and watching in horror as the events unfolded. Once I got to work, the entire office continued to be glued to the television and during this time our company was receiving bomb threats, but we were not allowed to leave work. It was quite frightening and difficult. Those shocking images of tragedy and loss are forever branded in my brain, but it in no way compares to those who were in New York, at The Pentagon, Pennsylvania and surrounding areas seeing it all first hand and experiencing loss of epic proportions. I can’t imagine the unbearable pain that so many feel to this day. Just thinking about it all brings me to tears. Our neighbors were a wonderful middle aged couple with no children. On 9/11, the man (Dean) who was a career Army professional lost his brother at The Pentagon. It was devastating, of course, as it was for everyone. His brother’s wife just had a

baby and they had another little boy who was about 2 years old. To add another cruel twist of fate to the tragic events of 9/11, the mother of the two little boys (Dean’s sister-in-law) was diagnosed with terminal cancer. She was not given long to live. Once she was gone, the boys would come to live with my neighbors and they would raise them. I remember seeing the mother on a visit as she was preparing things for the boys and the rest of their lives without her. It was so heartbreaking talking to her about what had happened and what she was doing for her boys’ futures. She was a lovely woman. Sadly she did pass away very soon after that visit and the boys came to live with my neighbors. They were so young and such good little boys hit with such tragedy so early in life. A few years ago they moved away and we still hear from the family from time to time. It’s always nice to know that they are doing well. From these tragic losses, my neighbors were able to do something good and raise their nephews in a loving, caring home. As we remember the tragic events of this day ten years ago, the lives lost, the heroes that emerged and the pain that is still felt, I recommend visiting the 9/11 Living Memorial Project which is an online interactive tribute commemorating the lives and preserving the stories of September 11, 2001. September 11th, 2001 was a life changing event not only for the people of New York and the United States, but for people of the world. As we reflect upon this day, it is important to recognize that we are all connected; we are all human beings living on this planet. We should embrace our differences and learn to live together in peace and harmony. A few years ago I affirmed the Charter for Compassion. The Charter for Compassion is a document that transcends religious, ideological and national difference.



Words by Stephanie Brookes Photos by David Metcalf 12

September 2011



builder and the ship owner must forge a working relationship, which centers around harmony, as this implicates a long life for the ship, little risk and good fortune. The strength of the ship is not only determined by construction factors but also by mystical factors. The master builder must go into the jungle, on his own, in order to commune with the spirits before he may choose and fell the first tree. The first tree is the most important and before it is cut he must enter into a dialogue with the tree and pay honor to it’s spirit. With axe in hand, the master builder strikes in an upward direction symbolizing the fortune of the ship will always rise. He plans the building of the ship in the jungle, in his mind, and in fact no written designs or blueprints are ever used. The Buginese people build by oral tradition and know exactly how much wood will be used, how much it will weigh, what type of construction factors they will employ and of course, the mystical factors plays a part as well. Ceremonial acts are held when the three pieces of the keel are joined together. Inside the holes that join each piece, gold is placed symbolizing wealth. Iron is Ombak Putih Cruise

added for strength and hulled rice is also placed, for prosperity.

s the crew heaved and tied off in practiced

coral reefs, crystal clear waters, sunrises, sunsets and

The birth of a Bugis Schooner

The launching of a 200-ton Bugis pinisi schooner is

unison, the seven sails billowed and flapped

friendly tribes people, we were to ride out a storm in

The Ombak Putih is a bugis schooner, meaning it was

done manually and takes around 200 men to push the

as ropes snapped into place. The sails filled

the Sunda Straits great enough to force us to change

built by the Bugis people, a legendary tribe of sailors

boat into the water. The night before, Islamic songs

and caught the breeze. The sleek wooden

direction and take a less dangerous route. We were to

and boat builders who use a ship building technique

and traditional Buginese songs are sung and the

schooner came into its own; we were sailing.

stand captivated as we watched Eddy the dragon slayer

that has remained unchanged in hundreds of years. The

supernatural spirits are honored.

We cut through the white waves (Ombak Putih) with ease

take on a Komodo dragon and we were to witness the

shipwrights and apprentices learn their skills as early as

and, from the comfort of my lounge chair, on a freshly

age old custom of whip fighting during our visit to

12 years old. The Bugis people are from South Sulawesi

Once the boat is in the water, the shipbuilder stays

polished deck, I felt life couldn’t get any better at that

the mountain people on the island of Flores. Relax, sit

but many conduct their trade from other places in

with his ship. He becomes the Captain, presumably

precise moment.

back and join me on this captivating journey across

Indonesia, like Kalimantan, where the Ombak Putih was

for the life of the ship or his. When I was introduced

the Lesser Sunda Islands. A journey as timeless as the


to our Captain on board the Ombak Putih, I had an

Such are the delights of taking a sailing adventure, but it was not all smooth sailing. In addition to the extraordinary sights; deserted beaches, untouched 14


enormous respect and admiration for exactly what this

ship which brought us there, the Ombak Putih, which in itself is worth telling a tale about, as it captures much of the mystique of the trip itself.

Before starting the design of a bugis schooner, much

title meant.

planning and preparation is involved. The master ship


Beautiful Sunset View

We set sail from Bima, in Eastern Sumbawa. Our 8-day journey was to take us to the islands of Komodo, Rinca, Flores, Sumba and Savu, however when you are in the hands of nature on the high seas, things can change.

Traditional Fisherman

The journey Sumbawa to Flores


March is typically the best time to sail in the Sumba

After a smooth night’s sleep we woke up in Flores, one

Strait, as the calmest seas prevail. However, we battled

of the biggest, most rugged and beautiful islands of the

an unexpected huge storm on the second night and

Lesser Sunda Islands. We were given our first glimpse

ended up with a different outcome and as any travel

into the Flores culture with a visit to the traditional

addict knows well, these are the moments when travel

village of Ngada. This involved a one-hour bus ride up

becomes an adventure; when the best laid plans go

into the highlands where we were made very welcome


by the village chief.

After dinner, our cruise director handed out the

We were invited to take our honorable seats in a small

seasickness pills. The dark, looming waves started

hut and soon we were sipping palm wine, chewing

to get noticeably larger and soon the dining room

beetle nut and munching on some tobacco. The giving

chairs were lifting and flying across the galley. When

was then up to us, and our European cruise director,

the large dining table rose, accompanied by glasses

handed the chief a couple of rupiah which served to

nervously clattering in the glass cabinet, the Captain

symbolize the act of giving.

called a meeting. It was only 45 minutes back to a sheltered bay, so the decision was made, and we Traditional Masks 16

September 2011

turned back.


Komodo Island Dragons and Bravery

We couldn’t see what happened next, as the two of

island of Komodo. We were only off the boat 5 minutes

them were now inside the hut, but there was plenty

we saw our first Komodo dragon. On closer inspection

of banging and crashing and then Eddie emerged

we realized when we were actually surrounded by them,

triumphant, having managed to wrestle the dragon

as they blend perfectly with the scrub and grass. The

and to haul him out (by the tail).

many dragons in the one area and we should consider ourselves very lucky. There were seven Komodos in total and although the size makes you a little nervous (they stretch out to about 3 meters), they have gentleness about them, which I found quite captivating. When one started to move slowly towards us, our ranger, who stood guard with only a 2-pronged stick, assured us we were in no danger and then went on to explain how one of his colleagues had his arm ripped off by a Komodo!


explained calmly, “He was after our food. We have fish in there and he must hunt for his food naturally.” Eddie was not just a dragon slayer; he was an environmentalist as well. Komodos are actually slow movers and live to a ripe old age of about 50 years. Their hunting strategy is based on stealth and power. Although they can run at speeds of up to 30km an hour this is only in short bursts. Poor hearing and limited vision means they hunt mostly by smell. After an attack, the wounded prey will slow down and eventually die. The septic

a very determined look on his face. He began to make

saliva of the Komodo left on the animal eventually

a beeline for the ranger’s hut. He proceeded to haul

poisons the prey and allows for the final kill. The

himself up the staircase and nose his way in, successfully

Komodo dragon is a large monitor lizard and although

opening the door.

related to the dinosaurs, they are not descended from them.

Soon a full-scale whip-fighting dance was in progress

very friendly, hospitable way, we were made to feel

involving a group of men cracking their whips, and

very welcome. We didn’t want to leave; however lunch

yelping as they danced, challenging each other to the

was calling and the food served on the ship was worth

power of the whip. The men were extremely animated

the bus ride back. Every day the chef presented a new

and vocal in challenging their adversaries. This was

menu, which was a blend of European style food and

accompanied by the antics of the local crowd (us),

local Indonesian fare. After lunch we enjoyed some solace and relaxation time. In fact, every day offered a cultural trip in the

The women then performed a bridal dance involving

morning, lunch back on board and then setting

bamboo poles and some speedy intricate footwork

the sails for a new destination, usually a remote

keeping them out of harm’s way, as the bamboo

uninhabited island for some snorkeling. Our beach

poles opened and shut quickly. After the ceremonial

afternoons became a bit of a ritual, and our crew

dances we were invited to beat the gongs and in a

would row over with chilled wine and cold drinks and


As we stood open-mouthed in wonder, Eddie

One Komodo dragon started to make an advance, with

Flores Dance Fighting


charged at the dragon and grabbed him by the tail.

We were in for another adventure when we visited the

ranger, Eddy explained it was quite unusual to see so

which made sounds equivalent to a WWF wrestling

Eddie the dragon slayer reacted with lightening speed,

a freshly baked batch of muffins or scones.

Komodo Dragon


Keli Mutu Lake

Keli Mutu Lakes Flores One cannot visit Flores without seeing the stunning

tobacco, which we all lit up and tried, and the bitter

They showed us all the steps – from taking the cotton

between black and maroon, is where the bad souls go.

tasting beetle nut. We were in a very merry mood

from the kapok pod to spinning it on a wheel. As the

watching the entertainment, which involved a young

wheel whirred away they demonstrated how a ball of

man balancing on top of a bamboo pole, hoisted

cotton was made. They simply stretched the kapok

several feet up into the air by his troop of dancers. The

out from the wheel, creating a long strand and before

women sung and imitated “calls of the wild” as we sat

our eyes we saw it turn into a ball of cotton.

three-colored crater lakes. This involved a slow and

The lakes are caustic and in 1995 a Dutch tourist

windy bus trip up the mountain. It is well worth the

accidentally fell in and only a part of his body was

arduous ride, with outstanding views from the summit.

recovered one week later. He was exploring in an

The lakes of Keli Mutu, which lie within the volcano’s crater, actually change color. Our guide told us that on his previous visit, one of the lakes had turned silver.


local people say the dark colored lake, which varies

out-of-bounds area, which was foolish and he met his fate in the turquoise lake. Apart from the unfortunate tourist, no one has ever ventured down to the lakes.

entranced in this performance in the middle of a small jungle clearing. Their obvious enjoyment of the tribal dance was infectious and with the palm wine enhancer

On the day of our visit we saw one lake turquoise, one

Our next cultural experience took place in Watublapi,

it didn’t take much for us to join them, at their

green and one maroon. Due to the varying mineral

Flores, where we were treated to a ceremonial dance

invitation, in the grand finale. The people of Watublapi

content you never know what you are going to see

performance by the Sika tribe. We were welcomed

are skilled weavers and after the performance they

until the day. The area is steeped in tradition and the

with palm wine served in coconut shells, hand rolled

invited us to view their looms and spinning devices.


The women sat together on the jungle floor, clacking on their weaving looms and most seemed to have a permanent meditative smile. It was clear to see they really enjoyed their work and their traditional way of life.


Sumbawa Kids

Weaving fabric of Flores

We found Flores a very friendly place. The people

Our journey ended in Maumere with no one wanting

are not poor, but live mostly by subsistence, growing

to leave the ship and board the plane home. The

rice and crops and providing for their families with

places we visited had woven a memory of white sandy

supplementary income from things like weaving and

beaches far from anywhere, spectacular volcanoes

carving. They are aware of the need to preserve their

and mountains, the natural habitat of the Komodo

culture and heritage by keeping their traditional way of

dragons, plus the smiles of the wonderful people we

life. For them, it is how they pay homage to the spirits

met along the way.

of their ancestors. With the Christian missionaries arriving in the 1920’s, 85 % of Flores people are Roman Catholic, however they also honor their ancestral beliefs and practice their animist customs together

A sailing voyage on the Ombak Putih allows the journey to be equally as good as the remote destinations you experience.

with Christianity.

Fact File ruises – Indonesia C Putih PT. Ombak Indonesia Benoa, Bali, Komodo Dragons 22

September 2011





East Borneo Words by: Idea Production Jakarta & Photos by: Dyah Kusuma

24 24

September 2011

Labuhan Kelambu


Berau Grand Mosque


Dayak Woman

ocated on the northeastern coast of East Kalimantan, Berau Regency is rich in history,

culture and nature. Once known as the majestic Berau Kingdom around the 14th century, spanning over 34.000 km2, the area officially became a regency in 1992, with the harbor town of Tanjung Redeb as its capital. Basked in tranquility, discover Berau’s ancient royal palaces, mysterious cemeteries, and grand mosque. Berau natural beauty has also won visitors’ hearts from around the globe, boasting tropical rainforests with

Plaza Sanggam Lima, Berau

exotic wildlife such as Asia’s only great ape and the icon of Indonesia - the orangutan, as well as sun bear, proboscis monkey, and many more.

Keraton on Mounth Tabur, Berau

At the seafront, its breathtaking marine paradise is inspiring and entertaining, where affluent coral reefs and vibrant marine lives offer exhilarating encounters


September 2011


Derawan Archipelago is one of the most important hotspots in The Coral Triangle, boasting high biodiversity that is very crucial for the welfare of all lives in the sea, as well as the sustainability of all living things on Earth. Consisting of 31 islands and atoll reefs, Derawan Archipelago offers complete marine ecosystems, namely the coral reef, sea-grass bed and mangrove, enhanced by sprawling spectacular beaches! Traditional Pattern on Dayak’s Music Instrument

The seascape has also been recorded as the largest turtle habitat and nesting site in South East Asia, dominated by green turtles (Chelonia mydas). Additionally, you can also find hawksbill turtles (Erethmochelys fimbriata), manta rays (Manta birostris), thresher sharks (Alopias sp.), barracudas (Sphyraena), stingless jellyfish (Cassiopeia ornata), barracudas (Sphyraena), dugongs (Dugong dugon), dolphins

Maratua Resort

(Delphinus), and coconut crabs (Bigus latro).

Maratua Island Kelai River

Kelai River

It is no exaggeration to describe Maratua as The Turtle

and the northern half of the lagoon rises sharply out of

Capital of South East Asia. The island is the favorite

the water. Constant currents give the waters of Maratua

breeding ground for turtles, mainly green turtles,

the perfect condition for healthy reefs and abundant fish

giving a guarantee of turtle encounters every time

life, from pelagics to the smallest and weirdest creatures.

you dive. Maratua is approximately 4-kilometer long

In short, Maratua Island offers something for all types of divers. Sunset at Maratua Resort


September 2011


Sangalaki Island Find “The Eagles of the Sea�, graciously emerge from all directions! Sangalaki Island is a familiar site for manta rays. These gentle giants are totally undisturbed by your presence. They are known to glide right up to you while searching for planktons. Furthermore, the shallow and pristine reefs of Sangalaki also provide a vast diversity of marine life. Most dive sites are shallower than 20 meter (65 feet) and slope gently to boast amazing hard and soft corals. Exotic underwater kingdoms are here

Labuhan Cermin

Kakaban Island

Kakaban Island

Kakaban Island is home to Jellyfish Lake. Only 25 minute boat ride from Sangalaki Island, dip into the 5-square-kilometer lake and swim (and even touch) the stingless jellyfish! This unique species can only be found in two places in the world. In Palau Islands, the Philippines. And here, in Kakaban Island! Snorkeling with jellyfish that do not have stings presents an experience of a lifetime. Kakaban is also renowned for its rugged deep walls that live up pretty much to any expectation. Pelagics such as manta rays, barracudas, tunas, jacks, trevallies, and various species of sharks are residents here. Also enjoy the reef life that assembles along the walls. Hanging soft coral tiers, fans and whips, as well as colorful reef fish.


September 2011



Words and Photos by Evi Aryati Arbay

The three main tribes of the Baliem Valley gather here in traditional war costumes to stage mock battles and perform indigenous music and dances, in which visitors often participate. This is an opportunity to witness tribal traditions being practiced amidst the highlands. Tribe members dress splendidly in feathered headdresses, the koteka, or penis gourd, and grass skirts as they host bakar batu feasts, where pigs and sweet potatoes are roasted. Stage Mock Battles of Traditional War


ocated high in the Jayawijaya mountains

Irian Island or Papua is home to an incredibly diverse,

the world. But nowadays, Papua is eager to open up to

body is much bigger than the average of Dani, while

on the Indonesian side of the island of

rich and unique flora and fauna. No less than 85%

the outside world by organizing various cultural festivals,

the Yali has long slender Koteka with rattan belt

New Guinea, The Baliem is a stunningly

of the island is covered by rainforest, much of it

including the Baliem Valley Festival, in order to attract

corved waist lenght.

beautiful green valley long hidden

primary and untouched by man. Wildlife abounds

foreign tourists.

beyond soaring hills. Baliem valley is 72

and includes some of the most interesting creatures

This is an extraordinary rarely occasion - where the

held to maintain the agility and preparedness of the

Dani, Lani and Yali (ethnic of natives Papua, Indonesia)

tribes to defend their villages. The Ceremony itself


mixed together in joyful to dancing and happy vying

held a marvelous war dancing in live performance

towards each other. They have different physical feature,

directly in front of your eyes, accompanied by

And more than that remote tribal peoples of Papua

culture and way of life as well as unique customs. Each

Papuan traditional music - adding an atmosphere

have been considered as among the world`s last

tribe group will come over with their own identity. Here

of grandeur. The main objective of the Festival is to

frontiers. Papua is home to around 312 different

you will see clear difference among them refer to their

carry out simulation of war between the tribes, to

tribes, including some untouchable peoples. Some

dressing. The Dani guys only use small koteka (penis

protect and maintain flexibility and willingness of

speak languages completely unrelated to any other in

gourd / penis cover), the Lani has bigger Koteka as their

each tribe to protect his village. All tribes group will

km. long, and 15 km to 31 km wide in places. It is cut by

known to man, while its coastal underwater world,

the Baliem River which has its source in the northern

which hosts truly amazing coral reefs, is equally

Trikora Mountain, cascading into the Grand Valley, to meander down and further rushing south dropping 1,500 meters to become a large muddy river that slowly empties into the Arafura Sea. The festival is organized by the Governments of Jayawijaya district, and aims to present and preserve the values of traditional culture of the tribes in the Baliem valley. 32

September 2011

Highlight of the Festival is the mock tribal warfare


Opening ceremony by Local Goverment

Burning rock cooking

Through this festival, it seems we should be allowed to see and feel the daily lives of the three tribes. We can also record and photograph their profiles for free, just need to give candy and cigarettes as a personal approach. This condition is different when visiting the village where the mummy was, in this village you are required to pay 250.00 to 300.000 to take the mummies from house of honai and to pose with the traditional villagers and mummy you have to pay Rp.5,000 per head per one image, so the calculation to take pictures with the mummies is: If the six inhabitants of the village - the cost required: Rp mummy. 250 000 + (6 x 5000 x 2 org snap) = Rp.310 000. There will also be a special competition of Sege throwing and archery competition for foreign visitors as a sign of appreciation for their attendance. Visitor can also experience the true meaning of being a Papuan by wearing the traditional costumes of Koteka and have their skins blackened so they can also be part of the festivities.

Pig Racing Contest

deliver their envoy to attend the festival while bringing

increased significantly from previous years, as well

all tribes attributes, kotekas, art and craft. The Baliem

as the number of participating groups. It’s about 25

festival is a right chance to observe the rich culture of the

groups participated or about 1,000 soldiers from three


tribes taking part of this event, here they not only

The Baliem Valley festival has started with the “Burn the rock” known as Barapean is a traditional cooking method that have had been done from day one till now by natives who live in the Valley of Baliem. Initially it was conducted by collecting some raw materials that

showed off a variety of activities that they normally do in everyday life such as the Rock Burn cooking, how grow the crops and livestock techniques as well as traditional dances, musical instrument with tribal warfare techniques and strategies - what they have.

including rocks as a means of heating food, firewood for

There are still so many tribes living in rural areas that

burning, and meat as food to be cooked. They’re always

difficult to reach. For example: the Yali tribe warriors;

using stones taken from the rivers and the stone itself

they came to the festival by walking for three days

has usually chosen to absorb heat quickly and durable.

from their village. Additionally, cost factors needed!

Next run down was opening ceremony by representatives from the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Indonesia. This year event was special because it is the 22nd Festival of Baliem! Every year always increasing number of visitors, as an example, on this year the number of local and foreign tourists has been 34

September 2011

to meet those people who live in the outback are very expensive, included other costs to “oblige’ them to do a cooking show that use a burn stone custom, it takes a huge cost because it shows it has to go through the process of ritual and ceremony are required to minimal sacrifice a pig.

The ladies of Dani

The Chief


The man and archery

How To Get There To get to the Baliem Valley, visitors must pass through the main airport of the province of Papua, it called Sentani airport. To achieve the Sentani airport, visitors can access it using any flights from Jakarta, Bali and Makassar. Upon arrival at Sentani airport, visitors can extend to fly by choosing in a type of aircrafts either Hercules or Twin Otter from Wamena, the capital of Jayawijaya. By attending the masive baliem festival, you will have a great chance to know and learn the culture of each attending tribes without having to make the visit to their compounds deep in the hinterland of West Papua. If you have limited funds, but wanted to know about Baliem Valley and its inhabitants, it is advisable to arrive at the time of the convening of the Festival of Baliem. It is held every year in Wamena and always in August, so plan your participation in advance of the festival - in order to facilitate all things, considered it is still very limited number of accommodations and transportation. One thing is certainly; visited Papua has been pretty safe and is mandatory to all of you who claimed as Real travelerits A MUST! So let’s go to Papua. Dani Tribes Dance 36

September 2011



ew Guinea contains one of the world’s last truly unspoilt tropical wildernesses. This final frontier on the edge of the

Pacific covers less than 0.5% of the Earth’s landmass, but is home to 6–8% of the world’s species. New Guinea is unique. It contains extraordinarily high levels of endemic species I, together with an unprecedented cultural diversity – 1,100 languages are spoken. Divided between the countries of Papua New Guinea in the east and Indonesia in the west, the island of New Guinea contains the third-largest tract of rainforest in the world, and its wetlands are the most pristine in the Asia-Pacific region. These habitats rival those on Borneo as well as the Amazon and Congo for richness.

New Guinea is home to more than 800 species of birds, unique species of reptiles and amphibians, and extraordinary

More than 1000 new species found in

Island Of

New Guinea

Words and Photos by: WWF Indonesia

mammal species like tree kangaroos. Indeed, New Guinea’s tally of terrestrial vertebrates around 1,800 species exceeds Borneo’s by more than two-and-a-half times II. The plant diversity is also very high; the estimated number of vascular plants in New Guinea ranges from 25,000 to 30,000. The confirmed figure from 1980s data is 21,000 indicating that much is yet to be found on this under-studied

Over the last decade, an extraordinary number of new species have been discovered on the island of New

island. Situated in the centre of the Coral Triangle, the reefs around New Guinea have the most species of coral and

Guinea (Papua, Indonesia & Papua New Guinea). But the forests, wetlands and coastal regions where they live

reef fish in the world.

are under increasing pressure. This report introduces these remarkable new species, the threats they face, and 38

September 2011 what WWF and others are doing to secure their future.


Between 1998 and 2008, at least 1,060 new species have

New Guinea continues to face growing threats

been discovered and officially described from the forests,

from a wide range of activities, including illegal

wetlands and waters of New Guinea. Such is the extent

and/or unsustainable logging, subsistence

of New Guinea’s biodiversity that new species continue

over-exploitation, forest conversion for palm oil,

to be discovered even today. A 2009 expedition to the

commercial mining, road construction, invasive and/

Southern Highlands of Papua New Guinea featured

or exotic species, and unsustainable fisheries.

on the BBC series Lost Land of the Volcano found an

These environmental threats are exacerbated by

estimated 40 new species, including at least 16 new

global climate change which is

species of frog, 2 new species of lizard, 3 new fish species, 1 new species of bat, and an undescribed endemic

Increasing the number of fires within forests and

subspecies of the silky cuscus, a type of possum.

savannas, erosion, and seawater incursion into coastal habitats. About nine million people depend

Another mammal, and the largest new species of animal

on the forests and fresh waters of the island for their

discovered during the trip, was a woolly giant rat, found

subsistence, livelihoods and cultural heritage. Forest

in the forest inside the crater of Mount Bosavi. Since 2008, more than 100 new species have been described by scientists III, and clearly many more await scientific discovery and description.

management initiatives such as Reducing Emissions If managed sustainably, the island’s precious habitats

from Deforestation and Forest Degradation (REDD)

such as reefs, rainforests and wetlands could continue

could allow communities to derive economic

to thrive into the next century. This is because, unlike

benefits from natural resources while safeguarding

most other parts of the world, these resources are,

the integrity of the rainforest for future generations.

at present, relatively untouched5. Equally, because of the range in altitude (up to 4,884m) and the

WWF has been involved in conservation in New

complex terrain offering numerous microhabitats,

Guinea since the early 1980s. We continue to work

rainforest species here have more chance to adapt

with local institutions and governments to help link

to climate change than those in lowland rainforests.

community action with science and effective policy

As the climate warms, they can move to higher

to promote the protection and sustainable use of

ground provided there is uninterrupted forest habitat

forests, and freshwater and marine resources. Forests

connecting different areas.

in New Guinea are partially or completely owned by local communities, so raising awareness and

As a developing region with high rates of poverty,

educating local people about their legal rights and

development is essential for the people of New

obligations is a key part of successful conservation.

Guinea. However, only improved land-use planning and industry that follows best practice can deliver long-term ecologically sustainable economic growth. The environment of the island is increasingly under pressure from poorly planned, unsustainable development. Between 1972 and 2002, human

d to visit: , please kin All sources and ndonesia.o http://wwfi hhtp://Pan

activities resulted in a quarter (24%) of Papua New Guinea’s rainforests being cleared or degraded.


september 2011


“Feel the spirit at your feet, Where the Earth and oceans meet. Emotion is rising on the breeze as you find your inner peace You can set your spirit free, where the sky falls to the sea. New horizons you will reach, On the beach..” – Sonic Palms

all its own

Words and Photos by: Djatoyz alvian

The View of Sundak Beach

Sundak Beach View


The Rock off Shore

lthough Sundak is more quite and desolated,

Ocean. To reach there is pretty handy and the road

When rainy season came, there was much water from

Another attraction is the shade of trees around the

the magnificence of its scenery and landmarks

access is not too bad either, if you hit off direct from

the land flowing to the sea. Consequently, the land on

shoreline and was accompanied by gusts of wind that

are not to be ignored. The pure white sand

City Center of Yogyakarta, it takes only 45 minutes

east side of the beach split to make a river-look form.

soothes while feeling to have a fresh coconut. In the


The flowing water looked like splitting the sand. When

evening you can enjoy the beautiful sunset on the

dry season came, the crevice disappeared since the sea

horizon from the Indian Ocean. In addition for supper

water came ashore and drag away the sand.

easily enjoy a special dish of grilled fish that you can

and rocky hills standing beside the beach are only just some of the wonders this beach has to offer. During the sunrise and sunset, you can watch clearly one of the

Legend says it all:

most amazing events that Mother earth has been blessed

According to the story tale, back in early 1930s There

towards the southern coast of beauty in Java Island.

was not a beach but the ocean. Due to geological

As you can see there are so many attractions for visitors. Sundak beach is one of them and always be a favorite attraction for nature lovers, especially in the area of Gunungkidul. She owns the favorite since the beach is pristine beautiful with clean white sand and shore reefs are a dotted line. They are Baron, Krakal, Siung, Sundak, Kukup, Drini, Ngandong, Wedi ombo and others. Sundak Beach, located Precisely in Wonosari - eastern part of the Gunungkidul, or rather, in the village of Tepus area, Sidoharjo, Gunungkidul Regency, Yogyakarta. The beach is one of the beautiful beaches along the Indian 44 44

September september 2011 2011

activity that might be of the Asian Plate in the Indian Ocean so there is less water in the area of stagnant water, forming beaches and offshore reefs began to climb. The story tells that sea water reached the area where the mosque stands now and the cave was submerged in sea water. The coral reef and the area around the mosque

Also there is another story developed in the community,

order a cook by your own.

the name Sundak Beach on the coast began to be used

Around the area, there are several small inns to rental

after a fight between a dog and a hedgehog. The fight

or just simply build a tent on the beach while enjoying

occurred because of a dog being starved by chance met

the bonfire and classic night with stunning skies. Also,

a porcupine. The hedgehog then chased and eventually

do not forget to buy a souvenir that is typical local

fall prey to hungry dogs earlier. For the incident, the dog

called Srikoyo fruit. It has characteristic sweet taste

owner is often mentioned as Sundak beach. Sundak

and lots of seed.

named originally come from a word of “A-SU” (dog in Javanese) and “LA-NDAK” (hedgehog).

became new land that later coastal people used it for economy activities until today. There was unique, natural phenomenon of the activity that finally served as starting point of naming this beach.




A boat trip into Halong Bay, a world heritage listed site in North Vietnam is a spectacular experience. The beauty of this region leaves you spellbound as you cruise alongside hundreds of sheer limestone peaks rising out of the sea, stone mountains clad in jungle, ancient caves and thundering waterfalls. INDIA Word by Stephanie Brookes Photos by David Metcalf



september 2011


The day we visited, the village elder welcomed us with a serving of green tea in tiny cups and we met some of the thirty-nine children who attend the primary school, which floats on blue plastic barrels. Interestingly, the common Vietnamese practice of two-child families is not practiced in this village because, as a local fisherman told us, “we have nothing else to do”. Girls are encouraged to marry between 17 and 20 years of age. When I asked one of the girls why they get married so young, she replied, “We are afraid of getting old.” Whilst visiting the village, we were offered the opportunity to try our hand at fishing with the experts and we were encouraged to sit and converse, albeit in broken Vietnamese with the friendly village floaters. It was a very interesting cultural exchange and both parties benefitted from finding out about each other’s worlds.

Cruising into Halong Harbour

Bai Tu Long Bay

Dragon Pearl Cruising Through Bai Tu Long Bay


he area has been protected since 1994 and the trip can be enjoyed to the fullest aboard the

luxury of a Chinese-style traditional junk, which is well worth the extra dollars. There are two regions to explore. The main area is Halong Bay itself, where approximately 1,000 boat operators compete for business, taking you to places like Hang Sung Sot Cave (Surprise Cave), which is not that much of a surprise, as you will be sharing it with around 700 people. The other area is Bai Tu Long Bay (which means Baby Dragon). In comparison, the surprises here are very real. Beautiful secluded beaches, exploring isolated caves by kayak, and the highlight - a candlelight dinner in a cave.

of a floating village is rather new to many of these century-old subsistence ethnic fishing communities. After 1994 the Vietnamese Government convinced many fishermen and their families to come out of the caves and live on the water. The main reason was to preserve and protect the caves and the delicate limestone environment for future generations. Many of these groups where enticed out of the caves with the offer of a (floating) school. Prior to this offer, entire villages - mums, dads, grandparents and children were illiterate. However now children aged 6 to 9 attend primary school. After completion of primary school, children are encouraged to continue on to secondary school on

Bai Tu Long Bay is home to a group of local fishermen

the mainland, however this involves leaving their

in the Cong Dam Floating Fishing Village. The concept

floating village life, their families and living on dry


september 2011

land in Halong City.


The Cave Dinner We set off after dark in a small boat convoy. Our destination was Thien Canh Son Cave. The giant stone cliff face loomed out of the dark waters - it was alluring and mysterious, framed against a dark moonless sky. As we got closer, a line of small torch flame markers came into view. The parade of lights wound up and around the

Cruising into Halong Harbour

sheer pinnacle island and then disappeared into what could only be the entrance to the cave. With this limited lighting, 18 boat passengers cautiously ascended the steep trail, torch in hand, and followed the flame markers to the mouth of the cave. Once we were inside, a small Hansel and Gretel narrow pathway, lit by tiny tea-candles awaited us. We entered a world of orange – the colour of the inside of the cave walls and followed the trail, descending deep into the cave, through small grottos. At every twist and turn stalagmites and stalactites greeted us, rising and falling in our wake. Finally we arrived at our destination, the cave restaurant. The shape of the cave leant itself to a perfect dining experience. Several natural stone couches lined the room and to my surprise, the floor of the cave was totally level. An ornate candelabra adorned a natural stone mantel and an 18-seat dining table greeted us. Soft Vietnamese music echoed in acoustic harmony with sparkling wine glasses, a white starched tablecloth, shiny porcelain dinner plates and the final touch - a sprinkling of rose petals. All were delighted at this very special and unique dinner setting. Thien Cahn Son Cave is a private cave and therefore you are guaranteed exclusivity for the night but exactly how had all this been set up? It

Kayaks on the edge

Private unique dining setting

While we had all been kayaking and playing soccer on

Fact File

the beach in the afternoon, our crew was busy discretely

Halong Bay is located in North East Vietnam. Luxury

working on carrying chairs and tables into the cave and

Cruise Dragon Pearl 1, 2 and 3 operate and tour Bai Tu

creating this exquisite setting, as well as cooking a nine

Long area. Chinese-junk style

course dinner. Truly remarkable!

New boat, launched July 2010.

Our waiters beamed with pride as they brought through

Chinese-junk style New boat, launched July 2010 11

each dish, which was accompanied by hand carved

Deluxe Cabins (maximum 22 people) Indochina Junk

food art, expertly crafted by the head chef. One piece

support “For a Green Halong” initiative. This includes

included a replica of our Chinese junk carved out of a

replacing styrofoam float-barrels with environmentally

pumpkin! All this for one memorable night. It was a

friendly, long-term plastic barrels, supporting the rubbish

truly heavenly, although very earthly, dining experience.

project in Vung Vieng fishing village and protection and

Memories like this remained etched in your (travel) soul

planting of mangrove swamp in Cong Dam.


How to get there

turns out that the work that had gone into this perfect

Halong Bay is a very romantic destination, combining

presentation had been prepared that very afternoon.

breathtaking vistas with idyllic sandy coves and a place to lose yourself for a couple of days in the wind and the waves that have created this visual masterpiece on earth.


september 2011

Pick up from your hotel in Hanoi included in the cruise price. Transfer time - Three hours by private shuttle Hanoi to boat Best time of year –October and November. Cruise operates all year round.



If you owned a mega-yacht, where would you sail? Maybe across the multi-hued blue waters of the Caribbean? Or maybe along the sun-drenched coasts of the Mediterranean? Or perhaps an Atlantic Ocean crossing? Words and Photos by: Dough Bradwell




The Royal Clipper is their flagship and their largest.

February 2011. Described as a “luxury casual” cruise, this

The ship is five decks tall and multiple sets of stairs

During winter and spring, it sails the Leeward and

suited my lifestyle perfectly. Dressing for dinner consisted

make it easy to get from place to place. There are no

Windward Islands of the Caribbean. At the end of

of slacks with a polo shirt.

elevators. With 1,800 m2 of handcrafted Burma teak

April, it will head east and spend the summer and fall sailing the Mediterranean, including a special cruise where they will dock for you to watch the Monaco Grand Prix.

To begin the journey required a flight to Barbados where the ship was docked. Passing through customs was quick and effortless.We were met by a cruise-arranged shuttle van that took us to the dock. Boarding in the early

where the 14 larger, luxury cabins and the two deluxe suites are located.

afternoon gave us time to unpack in our cabin and get

The luxury cabins offer whirlpool tubs, mini-bars,

to cruising, since these are actually sailing ships.

acquainted before we left port around 10 p.m.

outside private verandahs and room service. The

on five 54m tall masts,) the Royal Clipper gets a


the activity other than eating. The Clipper deck is also

Note that we are talking about sailing, as opposed With approximately 5,000 m2 of sails (that’s 42 sails

Relaxing on the deck

flooring, the SunDeck and the Clipper Deck see most of

verandah’s have ample room for a pair of chairs and a table for outdoor relaxing or dining. The deluxe suites

tremendous boost from the winds when they are all

Our Accommodations

unfurled. There are 26 squaresails, 11 staysails, four

Our standard-size cabin was mid-ship and was a warm

experience, book one of the two 33 m2owner’s suites

jibs and one gaff-rigged spanker. Unlike other so-

blend of mahogany and brass accents. Two single

on the Commodore Deck.The two owners suites can

called sailing ships, which run on motor-assist almost

beds were arranged together for us as a queen-size

actually be joined together to accommodate a group

constantly, the Star Clipper line uses sail power as

bed. Evening turn-down service even placed a couple

of eight guests.

much as possible when conditions are favorable.

signature chocolates on our pillows each night.

So what can you expect on a typical sail? Following

The closet was quite adequate with a couple nicely

are the observations from seven days at sea on the

built-in shelves near the floor for shoes and sandals and

Windward Islands tour on the Royal Clipper, taken in

a full- width shelf above the rod. Two dresserdrawer units held everything we didn’t need to hang in the closet. A

any people dream of sailing on a mega-

separate desktop (with combination safe below) made

yacht, but most could never own one. Now,

an ideal worktop for my computer and photo editing. A

thanks to Star Clipper, you can enjoy the

small stool was just the right height for typing.

full luxury experience without the cost of ownership. The restroom was completely marble - both walls and

Discover what sailing was like during the golden age

floor, with a spacious vanity and two full-width shelves

of tall ships.

below. The shower was small but adequate, with a Star Clipper is a boutique line with only three vessels,

retractable clothes line in case you wanted to hand up

but each is renowned as “best-in-class” when it

your wet bathing suit to dry.

also include a separate sitting area. For the ultimate

Dining The main dining room is center ship on the second to lowest level and has a three story atrium. The skylight is actually the bottom of the center and largest of three swimming pools on the Sun Deck. Breakfast and lunch are usually served buffet-style in the large dining room on the Commodore Deck, although on occasion it was served on the main deck outside in the Tropical Bar area. Another afternoon, lunch consisted of a beachfront barbeque. Every evening for dinner, there were four new entrée choices: usually a seafood dish, a meat dish, a Caribbean specialty and a vegetarian dish. Every evening, you also had your choice of steak and French fries, a pasta dish or a consommé if you chose.

comes to sailing ships. Service is top-notch. Food is phenomenal. Activities and amenities rival those offered only on private yachts. Cabins are exquisite. Ports of call are unique and delightful. Passenger

Under the bed, there was a mammoth amount of space

In every case, the meals were beautifully prepared and

to store easily much more luggage than we brought for

passengers had nothing but praise for executive chef

the trip. You could certainly conceal six large suitcases in

Devon Hodges and his staff.

this amount of space.

count is 227 or less. Plus, the ships themselves are

The passengers on our cruise were evenly mixed

gorgeous to behold, whether on-board or viewed from on-shore.

Two large (maybe 18” diameter) portals were our

from a variety of countries, primarily England, Ireland,

windows to the world outside. Thick, rich looking

Germany, France and Canada as well as the United

draperies allowed you to block the sun if you wanted to

States. Our head waiter Clifford had the uncanny knack

sleep in. Each cabin is also equipped with a color TV, DVD 54

September 2011

player, telephone, and hair dryer. Jacuzi on the deck


of knowing who to place with whom for interesting

Pirates Night, and always dancing to live music. Every

The sports team of four young Scandinavians can keep

conversation. In addition to the three main meals of the

evening, detailed schedules of the following day’s

you as active as you wish. If you are a real sea person,

day, there was also an early breakfast in the piano bar

activities would be placed in our cabin, printed in

be sure to meet Mariano Peruzzo, the on-board marine

starting at 6 a.m., an afternoon snack and a midnight

three languages – English, French and German.

biologist. He’s a wealth of information and a great

snack. No one ever went hungry on a Star Clipper’s voyage. Coffee and tea were self-serve 24 hours a day in the piano bar.

Captain Sergey Tunikov always kept an open-door policy on the ship’s bridge and everyone was welcome to stop up any time and tour the chart room. If you

scuba leader.Mariano also leads talks just about every day on a variety of marine issues. His talks range from fish identification, to dolphin and whale watching, to ecology. Sailing out of the port in Martinique, we had an

The indoor-outdoor Tropical Bar (one of the ship’s three

were so inclined, you could take the giant wheel

bars) can be found on the Main Deck,in the center of

to steer the ship or help with the lines while sails

the ship, where passengers relax, dance and enjoy

were unfurled leaving port. Each sailaway was

tropical drinks frommid-day until the late hours of

accompanied by the overture from the movie 1492,

the night. This area is large enough to accommodate

(Conquest of Paradise by Vangelis) playing on the

everyone on board and is the location for many

loud speaker system. Seeing the sails unfurl, feeling

Two other unique areas to enjoy are the widow’s net and

shipboard activities.

the ever-increasing sea breeze and listening to the

the honeymoon balconies. The widow’s net, made of

Activities on The Ship

music created memories all the passengers will long

heavy gauge rope netting, extends on either side of the

remember. If you enjoy snorkeling and scuba diving,

bowsprit and is like a hammock, inviting you to relax with

you’ll be in heaven on a Royal Clipper sail, as there are

a book or just soak up the sun. The honeymoon balconies

free opportunities at every stop, along with Sunfish

are two small lookout spots cantilevered out over the

sailing, kayaking, windsurfing and water skiing. There’s

port and starboard sides. With high safety rails, these are

no additional charge for any of the beach activities.

magical spaces to stand and watch as nothing but ocean

After dinner, there was always some activity planned by Angela, our effervescent cruise director. A wildly popular steel drum band joined us in Antigua, while other nights there were talent shows, crab races on

opportunity to climb the mast and relax on the crow’s nest.That was a tremendous opportunity for a birds-eye view of ship. It was surprising how steady you felt 50’ in the air as the ship sailed off into the Atlantic.

waters flash by below your feet.

Ports of Call

adventures in the rain forest, learning to ride a Segway or taking a 4x4 ride across the island. The zip line

optional shore activities, both free and at extra cost.

adventure could be done by anyone in reasonably

Cruise director Angela was a wealth of knowledge when

good physical shape. While it consisted of many hilly

it came to planning just the right shore excursion.

hikes in the rainforest, most were on staired walkways

has alternated between being ruled by Britain and France a total of 14 times. It finally was granted its independence from the English in 1979. Tourism is now the island’s

september 2011

In St. Lucia, passengers had the option of zipline

In each of the ports, (we stopped at seven) there were

St. Lucia was our first port of call. Over the years, St. Lucia


Luxury dining area

and it offered 12 zip line runs of varying lengths and heights. It is a rainforest after all, so don’t be surprised to get cooled by a refreshing shower once or twice while you are there.

main business. St. Lucia’s most notable attraction is the

When the boat docks at Marigot Bay, the options

Pitons, two volcanic cones that rise up from the sea on

change to zip line tours, rum and batik tours, or a

its southern coast. The Royal Clipper sails past the Pitons

marvelous tour of Soufriere and the Caribbean Coast.

on its way to dock at Rodney Bay. It’s a perfect time to be

Here you’ll visit the two great Pitons before arriving

on deck in the early morning hours and capture some

at the Soufriere Estate’s diamond botanical gardens,

photos of these peaks. They have become the most

waterfall and mineral bath. This estate was established

noted landmarks of the island.

in 1745 on land granted by King Louis XIV.


The tour concludes with a drive right up to the

If staying aboard was more to your liking, there

remnants of a volcanic crater where steam still rises.

were plenty of places to hang out from the beautiful

Dominica, the Caribbean’s most lush island, offered

Edwardian style library to the spacious piano bar.

two different hikes to see waterfalls, one strenuous and

Internet access is available in the Observation Lounge.

one not. After viewing the waterfalls, options existed

Deck chairs were always available outside, either in

to relax and bathe in hot, volcanically heated pools or

the sun or the shade on the sun deck. Three pools

snorkel through a champagne bubble-like lagoon.

were available for leisurely soaking or for taking scuba lessons. Way down on the lowest deck was Captain

Antigua was the third port of call and some people

Nemo’s Gym and Spa where you could work out or

went on a kayak eco tour while others went swimming

get a full variety of spa services. For the ultimate

with friendly stingrays. Alternately, you might opt

indulgence, try the Ocean Memory spa package which

to wander around Falmouth Harbor and see some of

includes a body scrub, marine body wrap, bath ocean

the most fabulous private yachts which typically dock

sensation and massage of your choice with aquatic

there. The world’s tallest sailsbelong to the Mirabella

oils. That’s almost three hours of bliss.

V, who was tied up at the end of the dock. Next to her was the incredibly sleek and beautiful Maltese Falcon,

While some of the above-mentioned items could be

with its DynaRig sail system.

experienced on any mega-cruiser, there is something magical about experiencing it on this great steel-

After lusting over these sailing beauties, consider a

hulled clipper ship under full sail. The magic was so

10-minute walk to Nelson’s Dockyard. This was once

captivating that many of the passengers were sailing

Britain’s main naval station around 1800 and is now a

for their fourth, fifth or sixth time. That speaks volumes

reconstructed national park. Tour the buildings and be struck by the contrast of sailing in the olden days

for the quality and allure of these trips.


Mikael Krafft, the owner, and his entire staff have

versus the luxury afforded today. Stop at one of the local establishments for drinks in a comfortable patio

coral reefs. With the exception of a Four Seasons

The last full day of the cruise was spent in Fort de France

succeeded in achieving his dream of allowing

area and revel in the slow, relaxed atmosphere which is

Resort, most accommodations are small inns and

on Martinique. This was perhaps the largest city we saw

thousands of people to experience the fantasy of

the Caribbean.

cottages. The Botanical Gardens of Nevis is a popular

on this cruise, and it was time for shopping. No matter

having their own mega-yacht and sailing off to exotic

destination with 3 hectare of fountains, waterfalls, lily

your budget, there were shops waiting to fill bags for the

destinations. For more information, contact your travel

ponds and a bee and honey farm.

trip home. Bargains could be had on island rum, straw

agent or see their website

The following day on St. Kitts, guests could discover the island on a choice of vehicles – the historic train,

hats and folk painting. If you wanted upscale luxury items, this was the place for French perfumes, designer

Contact information:

clothing and watches, luggage, crystal and dinnerware

Monaco Head Office

at prices 30-40% less than in the United States.

Star Clippers, Clipper Palace, 4, rue de la Turbie, 98000 Monaco

a conventional tour bus or individually on 4x4 quad

The little island Terre-de-Haut, where none of the big

bikes. The island’s most notable landmark is the

cruise liners can dock, was the next site for personal

Brimstone Fortress. A favorite item of shoppers is

exploration. Landing in Bourg, the picturesque seaside

the hand-dyed local fashion called Caribelle Batik.

capital city, many people went immediately for the

Convenient tours enable you to actually see the

moped rental counter and were off in pairs upon these

On alternate weeks, the ship cruises to the Grenadine

manufacturing process in action as well as shop for

two-wheeled, gas powered bikes. Opting to walk,

Islands which also include ports of call at Grenada,

completed goods.

we crossed the entire island in fifteen minutes and

Tobago Cays, St. Vincent, Bequia, Marigot Bay and St.

discovered the pounding surf on a mile-wide beach


Just a short 3.2 km away is the island of Nevis. Together, St. Kitts and Nevis create one of this planet’s smallest nations. Nevis is a volcanic island surrounded by 58

September 2011

where we were totally alone with the waves and an occasional sea bird.

Phone: (377) 97-97-84-00 Fax: (377) 97-97-84-01 E-mail: Australasia Diana Siderova Level 21, 141 Walker Street North Sydney NSW 2060 Phone: (61) 2-8913-0797 GSM (61) 423-331-797 E-mail:


The perfect contemporary


for an execution in Jakarta Located at the corner of the second floor of Energy Building in the Sudirman Central Business Disctrict, Amuz guarantee guests an elegant and luxurious dining experience. With a contemporary romantic, chic Parisian interior, the dining room featuring Eiffel Tower-inspired iron works, a unique teardrop chandelier as well as several beautiful painting created by some of Indonesia’s most renowned artists which adorn the walls of the restaurant. With over twenty years experience in French cuisine, Chef Gilles Marx is leading the Amuz culinary team to assure guest a unique dining experience. Try a delectable Alaskan King Crab Salad, Pan-seared Duck Liver Foie Grass, Fresh Dover Sole as well as French Milk Fed Veal Chop & as the fitting ending to the meal, the Valrhona chocolate or Grand Marniere Soufflé are highly recommendable.

The perfect execution, an ever-changing menu following the best seasonal product available in markets around the world, exclusive desserts, fine wines and quality service is Amuz promise to you & your Guest. For your private business lunch or dinner, small family events or a small party with friends Amuz recommends its exclusive private dining room with seating for up to 14 guests, or for a more interactive Gourmet dinner, our Chefs Table can fit up to 6 persons.

Serving contemporary French cuisine, Amuz also offers a

Further information regarding AMUZ can

fine selection of French wines, as well as other European

be follow at or

and New World wines, perfectly store in a walk in glass

simply dial: Tel +6221 29951406.


It’s spacious, yet cozy at

Elbow Room

“The idea of a Gastro pub came to mind when I was

Now open daily from 11am to 1am, is located in the

looking for a place to hang out in the Kemang area. I

heart of Kemang. It’s spacious, yet cozy with Two floors,

wanted to create a cozy place that would take me to the

two bars, stools, tables with chairs, sofas - including

places I’ve lived in such as Melbourne and Vancouver.

Pancakes on a lazy Sunday morning, Seafood linguini

I used to frequent the pubs there and had such a nice

during your lunch-break from work or Afternoon

simple yet chic atmosphere. Nothing pretentious, we

cappuccino accompanied with our Black Russian

want to serve heartfelt cooking and good beers to

Tiramisu – all of them simply you can find on ELBOW

accompany your meals. I believe once you have these in

ROOM as a place where you can decide.

place, good times will follow.” says Ponti Young, creator and designer of Elbow Room.

Don’t like beer, ladies? Not so fast: “Beer? It’s bitter! That’s what I used to think, of course I stayed away

It’s simple, yet chic. It feels like a pub, but it’s more than

from it. At ELBOW ROOM, I’ve tried cherry-, raspberry-

that. Fine dining in a stiff setting? Not in here. Finest and

flavored. Love it! Hooked!” says Anya Dwinov. Along

honest food in a casual setting? Yes! Welcome to ELBOW

with Olga Lydia, They are part of the people behind

ROOM, Jakarta’s first Gastro Pub.

ELBOW ROOM. “We felt like doing something new,

Gastropubs are associated with warm, cozy ambiance

something fun”, says Olga.

and focused on high quality cuisine at neighborhood

That’s exactly what ELBOW ROOM is all

value. Stating true to the format, ELBOW ROOM’S menu

about. Reservations: 021 7194274

offers a variety of European cooking, complimented by our exclusive range of imported beers and wines. 60

September 2011


Johanes (Joe Chang) is a young successful entrepreneur as well as Director of a leading voucher discount directory for online business called – One of Indonesia’s favorite online business in social media commerce and daily deal site. Travel Addict has had an opportunity to “meet and greet” – where he shared his stories on business, life and of course, his Traveling experiences as a real travel addict! Words and Photos: Reza A Siregar

Is there any government / community support or like to share regarding your business? So far, we have been receiving warm welcomes and positive responses; including from players in travel and tourism industry. What we offer is simply a risk free digital marketing opportunity by optimizing new trends in digital era for businesses and industries.

Why? I saw an opportunity to bring in something

I believe this business model is a another

new for the industry and I just don’t want to miss it.

breakthrough for Indonesia’s travel and tourism industry. It is an option and an answer for some

The new wave that would change businesses is

challenges faced by the industry in Indonesia and

coming, and it is happening around the globe. I

everywhere around the globe.

guess there is no other better timing than to join the

What is your expectation, in term of your business?

wave now.

My passion is contribute something for travel and

Could you describing who you are to all Travel Addict readers please? Well, I’m simply a husband and a father of my lovely daughter. I’m a lifetime learner, travel enthusiast, and food adventurer. And Of course- I was born and grown by family of travelers. How’s the business going? How long have you been involved in that field? What

The business growth is amazing!

stakeholders; both from government and private sector. Do you have any suggestions for the government of Indonesia, in order to build tourism in the future? Fast learn from other countries and keep on innovate. More proactive, be different and be better.

My very personal advice for Indonesia tourism: ‘Set a


higher standard and try to go beyond that”

Yes I do. I travel almost every month - but

Can you give some tips or advice about your

unfortunately, I do more business travel than for

experience as a real traveler?

leisure. Try something local wherever whenever you travel to What’s your the best destination that you’ve been

new places and Keep on Travel!

visited? Could you give a little reason and why?

around 15 years ago. I learned my first lesson as a

over than 500.000 people - and continue growing

professional tour leader when I was in high school for a

everyday.Our Facebook fans has reached over than

group of 250 junior high school students to Jogjakarta.

140.000, and our Twitter followers has reached over

Then I continue my learning journey with guidance and

than 11.000.

assistance from my great mentors, colleagues and friends

September 2011

serious effort, and better communication from all

Do you like travel, don’t you? And how often you do

taste, and experiences.


I do think that It requires a strong commitment,


community member in Indonesia, has grown to

Commerce business model.

build toward Indonesian tourism?

And What’s your own personal suggestion for this

I fell that Thailand as a destination offers a lot of colors,

that combine Performance-based Marketing and Social

What do you think that we need to develop and

tourism industry.

I started my learning journey in the travel industry

as (; a company

share, and to care.

tourism industry, especially for Indonesian travel and

Within a year, DealLovers - how we called our

decided to join LivingSocial Indonesia, which also known

Indonesia archipelago is truly a treasure to explore, to

I’m afraid I have to say Thailand. Why? Simply because

made you pursue this business? And Why?

whom I met along my professional journey. Recently, I


perhaps any good and bad thing that would you

This month; Socialites - how we called our team member and colleagues, has grown to over than 100

Do you have a dream destination to visit? Yes, I do. First - it will be all wonderful places in Indonesia. Precisely to the Kilometer Zero (KM.O) in Merauke and It has always been in my top list. Why? Because I’ve had been to KM.O in Sabang and I think it would be awesome if I can reach there too.

people. We feel great and very grateful for being able to be part of the solutions for the industry - especially for merchants who have been working with us.

What would you think of Tourism in Indonesia instead in few words?




TIME 2011

andar Lampung will be host the annual event of tourism market called Tourism Indonesia Mart &

Expo (TIME) 12-14 October 2011, to promote Indonesia tourism destination towards foreign tourists. This event will be held at Hotel Novotel Lampung and will hold various tourist destinations, including popular tourist

Ready to be held in Bandar Lampung 12-14 October 2011 the calendar of international travel mart together with ITB Berlin, WTM London, Arabian Travel Mart (ATM), PATA Travel Mart and so on.

destinations as well as the development of new tourist

TIME 2011 has supported by the Ministry of culture


and tourism, Government of Lampung province,

Chairman of the Steering Committee of TIME 2011, Mrs. Meity Robot said that TIME will be a place where tourism services to meet the buyer with the seller. “The buyers

Department of culture and Tourism Bureau of

Finally R.I.M Announces of Two New BlackBerry 7 Smartphones in Jakarta Research In Motion (RIM) has announced the availability

BlackBerry Bold 9900 is thinnest 10.5mm; it’s perfect of

of two new BlackBerry® 7 OS based smartphones in

a high keyboard performance and touch screen display

Indonesia.The BlackBerry® Bold™ 9900 and BlackBerry®

integrated within entire package. It is also included

Torch™ 9810 smartphones will be available on September 16

built-in NFC (Near Field Communications) support of

from selected authorized partners. Customers will be able

new technology, enabling many new capabilities, as well

Lampung , Garuda Indonesia, Merpati Nusantara,

to purchase on the event at Atrium Plaza Senayan Jakarta.

as ability to pair with NFC-enabled accessories or read

Indonesia national airline carriers Association

The event will provide an opportunity for customers to be

Smart Poster tags with a simple tap on it.

(INACA), Council of Indonesia Airline Representatives

the first to purchase of new BlackBerry Bold 9900 or Torch 9810, which will be priced on IDR 5,999k and 5,399k.

There is also BlackBerry Torch 9810 has a powerful

agencies (Asita), Association of Indonesian hotels and

Mr. Hastings Singh, Vice President of RIM in South East

performance hardware features and the new BlackBerry

restaurants (PHRI), Indonesia Association of congresses

Asia said: “We’re excited to introduce two new BlackBerry

7 OS is a next generation BlackBerry browser with a

In this year has been 17th annual event of TIME and it

and conferences (INCCA). Also fully supported by

7 powered smart phones in Indonesia. These two powerful

significantly faster, more fluid web browsing experience

is the only international travel mart in Indonesia with

national and International media, such as Travel Addict

smart phones has been RIM’s next generation of hardware

that is among the best in the industry.

business to business concepts. TIME has been listed in

officially media partner for this event.

consist of international tour operators, while the seller including hotels, airlines, MICE and others related to tourism industry” she replied.


September 2011

(BARINDO), Association of Indonesian Tours and travel

evolution from the previous 9800. With high

and software to deliver the ultimate in communications, multimedia and productivity.”



L’HISTOIRE DU SOLDAT & DUTCH Music Chamber Company at ERAMUS HUIS JAKARTA 19 - 20 August 2011


september 2011






Touching Moment Break Fasting Dinner

at Bebek Bengil Jakarta

23 August 2011 MGTO 68

August 2011













Seaview has been open now


It’s the EXTRA THOUGHT that makes all the difference


ali, a worldwide tourist destination, is dubbed as the GRAND ELITE Hotel Pekanbaru is the first Luxirious

island of gods by the locals. Balinese people have

always had a very unique culture. Bali is also wealthy of

International Business Hotel in Malay Heritage City in

nature’s grace, blessed with rivers, forests, mountains,

Pekanbaru – Riau, Sumatera Island from Core Hospitality

rice fields, beaches, lakes. Tourists visiting Bali will have

International who offered Unique Adventures and

an additional choice of accommodation: BEST WESTERN

Unbelievable Experience at Customers’ choice with a

Kuta Seaview brand.

very Comfortable, Affordable and Irresistible, while “It’s the EXTRA THOUGHT that makes all the difference” is the

The modern minimalist hotel combines the spirit of


hospitality of Balinese culture as well as Best Western’s international standard of facilities, which includes:

The Hotel located in the heart of Pekanbaru’s China

Outdoor Swimming Pool, Restaurant, Bar, Lounge,

Town in “Komplek Riau Business Center” at Riau Street in

Meeting Room.

Tampan District which is well-known as Entertainment area where easily found its variety of Shop-houses who

BEST WESTERN Kuta Seaview is built on an area of 2000

provide choices of Food, Amusement Center and Offices

m2 with building area of 10,000 m2 and consists of

for your daily Business Activities. GRAND ELITE Hotel

5 floors with very exotic view of charming Bali strait;

Pekanbaru only 25 minutes drive from International

offering Clear Ocean view by the day and beautiful

Sultan Syarif Kasim II Airport, 5 minutes away from

sunset by the night. Located in Kuta Bali, the hotel is just

Ciputra Shopping Mall in Riau Street, 10 minutes away

15 minutes travel from Ngurah Rai International Airport.

from the Pekanbaru City Center and 15 minutes away

With 144 rooms, this hotel is ideal for tourists, families

from Ska Mall the biggest Mall in Pekanbaru – Riau.

and business travelers. It is strategically located: just a Grand Elite Hotel Pekanbaru was opened on 26th

short walk to Kuta beach, best known for being surfers’ paradise, and its shopping centers and nightlife. Designed to have very comfortable rooms with modern design equipped with air conditioning, hair dryer, hot and cold shower, personal safety box, 24 hour room service, wake up call, free internet access, coffee or tea maker, IDD telephone service, desk work area, LCD color television, mini bar, 24 hour security system, as well as other facilities that will make visitors feel comfortable and facilitated. 70

september 2011

In addition, BEST WESTERN Kuta Seaview has a

December 2005 at the time the hotel name was Quality

restaurant called Taste Restaurant, located downstairs

Hotel Pekanbaru. On 1st November 2007 the hotel name

nearby the hotel lobby. With a capacity of 65 people,

was changed to Grand Elite Hotel Pekanbaru.

Taste Restaurant is open daily from 6:30 until 11:00 at night, mainly to serve morning breakfast. Taste Restaurant serves traditional and international cuisine in buffet style. The hotel also has Indigos bar & lounge at the rooftop floor. Guests can dine and mingle, while enjoying the beautiful sky of Kuta Beach.

Grand Elite Hotel Pekanbaru has aimed to be the Most Preferable International Chain Hotel in Sumatera who provides Consistence Excellent Services and Value Product by Offering Unbelievable Hotel Destination in Pekanbaru that ensuring the Best Hotel Revenue and Maximum Profit.

It owned by PT. Asiacitra Riau Property. It is built on 13.107 m2 of land and the building consists of 5th levels, starting from Lobby hotel, Concierge & Reception Desk, Cendrawasih Lounge, Sultan Palace Hall, Balai Raja Room, Pepito Restaurant, Wedding Gallery, Drug Store, Business Center and RP International Executive Club. Hotel facilities: Pepito Restaurant, Cendrawasih Lounge, Camar Pool Bar, Sultan Palace Hall, Zapin Ballroom, Balai Raja Room, 7 Function Rooms, 24 Hour Room Service, Swimming Pool, Drugstore, Business Centre, GE Laundry Service, Elite Fitness Center, Grand Spa, Super Large Lobby, 24 Hour Doctor on Call, RP International Executive Club, Spacious Car Park Area, Limousine Service.


There are formal arrangements for all occasions from


baptisms to funerals. Some florists seem to have learned their craft at military school, with flowers standing at full attention. Others appear to take their clues from Frida Kahlo’s surrealistic paintings, and might include apples, plastic baby dolls or even live goldfish. Holidays are a great time to visit the Jamaica market. During Semana Santa, before Day of the Dead, Mothers’ Day or Valentine’s Day the sheer quantity of flowers is dazzling. And if you happen to need a bouquet at 4 in the morning, it’s the place to go—the market is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

Mexico City’s

Best Market: el Mercado Jamaica Words and Photos by: Jim Johnston


he Mexican mercado has a long

to the proceedings. A roaming guitar player is usually

tradition. At the Museo de Antropología

nearby to provide the soundtrack.

a diorama of a pre-Hispanic market

looks remarkably like what you see today. In the Palacio Nacional, Diego Rivera’s panoramic mural shows an Aztec mercado with a butcher offering a human arm for sale—other than that, it’s still pretty much the same. Beans, squash, avocados, metates for grinding corn and molcajetes for grinding chilies, ceramic pots, baskets and woven mats are just a few of the things that connect today’s Mexican market to its Aztec predecessor. Most market stalls are individual, family-run businesses, so there’s the intimate feel of a village in the mercado. You can still ask for ‘un aguacate para hoy’, a recommendation for the best melon, or get a free apple as a pilón (an extra gift). Vendors beseech you with ‘¿Que va a llevar?’ or ‘¿Que le damos, marchanta?’ and there’s a chatty, bustling feel 72

September 2011

Wandering through the market you’ll also find baskets, ceramics, tinware, fantastic costumes for children, and

My favorite market in Mexico City is the Mercado

even an beauty parlor run by a pair of transvestites.

Jamaica, located a few miles south of the Zócalo. It

There are great food stalls in the market as well. many

has all the variety of the much larger La Merced in

of them specializing in huaraches, a corn-based antojito

the centro, slightly scaled down—but without the

(snack) with a variety of toppings. And this market is

crowds. I take visitors here even if we’re not shopping

one of the rare places where you can sample tepache,

for food—the exuberant colors and lively atmosphere

a traditional drink made of lightly fermented pineapple

make it a fascinating destination.


What makes the Jamaica market special is that, aside

A visit to the Mercado Jamaica is much more than

from the mountains of produce, it’s also the city’s

just a trip to the supermarket--it’s time travel to a

wholesale flower market (they also sell retail at prices

pre-industrial world, a microcosm of life in Mexico,

that will astound you.) You’ll see bundles of fragrant

exuberant, colorful...alive!

nardos, piles of mutli-hued roses (whose petals can be bought by the kilo), armloads of gaudy gladiolas, exotic heliconias and lots more, on display.

Getting there: If you in Mexico city – Just simply to Catch the #9 metro line stops at ‘Jamaica’ and there’s a taxi sitio behind the flower market.


ADDICT TO SHOP The forever evolving artist presents a collection that continues to expand on his artistic background, whilst responding to collector feedback and current color trends. Boutique and resort buyers in the US gained the chance to marvel at Colin’s truly awe-inspiring designs at the Miami Swim show. They viewed the complete collection, including the six new designs which include silk kaftans, scarves, sarongs, swimwear and headbands. Each garments is a timeless piece of art – truly exquisite in both design and quality. The extensive variation in color and style means there’s a design for every woman.

efined chic prints on classic versatile garments

Colin Heaney, the Australian based artist and designer

The latest design, equally as unique and divers as the

Colin Heaney’s much anticipated second

has released his breathtaking third collection and

previous collections include Colin’s unique artistry in six

collection of silk, kaftans, sarongs, scarves and

introduced the exquisite brand to the US Market. The

dynamic prints. The vibrant and exotic ‘Hot Pink Fiesta’

matching swimwear can go from a formal party to the

prestigious Miami Swim show provided the stage on

is an arresting fuchsia and lime green kaleidoscopic

beach. Hot from Rosemount Sydney Fashion Festival

which Heaney presented his latest collection of resort

creation inspired by the colorful flowers in Colin’s Byron

Colin Heaney Shows women how to feel sensual in a


Bay Garden. ‘Filaments’ is a subtle, intricate composition,

myriad of ways.

“This is a really exciting time for us and was a great

reflecting Colin’s inspiration drawn from his natural environment, inspired by an image from one of his one

Over the past year, Colin has been working hard at

opportunity to present the label to the US” says Colin

refining the label for his third trans-seasonal collection.

Heaney, the highly-acclaimed artist and designer

Colin continues to gain inspiration from his previous

behind the rapidly growing luxury label. Visionary

“My intentions were to make the wearer feel truly

artwork, including his esteemed glass creations and his

Colin Heaney has captivated the US after the much-

beautiful and ethereal, and we’ve been immensely

self-designed masterpiece home, Casa Blu. Colin digitally

anticipated release of his third collection of resort

successful in doing that in making women feel like

transforms images of his art into timeless prints for his

wear at the Miami Swim show in July 2011.

women again” says Colin “The kaftans and silk are

renowned collection.

off goblets.

transformational - every woman is innately precious and beautiful”.


September 2011

Colin Heaney Boutique Show room and Head Office 1A/81 Centennial Circuit, Arts & Industry Estate, ByronBay, NSW 2481, Australia (+61-2) 6685-7798



National Park Hohe Tauern, Austria t nge, Nevada Deser Horse Xing Free Ra n oo ijss Hu rk Di by Photograph

Volendam, Netherland


September2011 2011 September

Public Transpor t, Rajastan Indi a Photograph by Hoyle Elisa

St Stephen, Budapest - Hungary

Bintan Beach Lagoi Bay, Indonesia

rta Prambanan Temple, Yogyaka Photograph by Boy

ibet Lhasa, T nald o R y aph b Photogr


the country you’re in (if you are, that’s a sure sign


you need to get out of there fast), so get ready to

Getting rid of first-time travel jitters I remember the first time I travelled alone- I was scared, excited, nervous, convinced that I would be getting into trouble but absolutely sure that it was something I had to do, no matter what. Ten years later, I have no regrets taking that first leap and would never have had it any other way. Here are my travel tips for women who are contemplating travelling solo but are a little unsure whether they should: 1. Start small

to avoid unwanted male attention. You’ll feel

Everyone wants to start off with a bang, but I would

more confident after you equip yourself with this

suggest that your first solo trip be somewhere in your

information, guaranteed.

or have only been to as a child- this way, the trip will still be exciting and different.

Be warned, of course, that just like in everyday life, you’ll meet all sorts of people on your travels. Your own common sense should tell you whom you can trust. If your instincts tell you to avoid a particular person, listen to them and find a new friend. 5. Will I be all right?

Words by : Anis Ibrahim

own country, preferably to a place you’ve never been to

exchange email addresses and postcards.

3. Reassure the folks at home My parents needed a whole lot of convincing before I left on my first trip, which is to be expected. What’s

Yes, you will be, if you do the following: (i) avoid dangerous areas, which you’ll discover from your research; (ii) stay in at night unless you’re with a group of people you’ve learnt to trust; and (iii) keep note of the last bus or Metro service so that you know when to start heading back to your hostel.

The purpose of of travelling within your country but in

important is that you mustn’t get discouraged or

unfamiliar territory is that it will be a combination of

have second thoughts when they ask questions like,

being out of your comfort zone yet not entirely foreign

“Do you really have to go alone?” or “Can’t you find

because you’ll still be speaking your language and using

anyone to go with you?”. Instead, reassure them that

your currency. You can move on to more challenging

because you’ve done a lot of reading, you’ll be okay.

(v) flash your money or credit card(s) about and

What I normally do is to text them as soon as I arrive

(vi) carry expensive-looking bags. Sometimes one

at my destination and again later after I’ve checked in.

of those woven shopping bags will do just fine.

countries later but for now, what’s important is that you build your confidence and courage.

It also makes perfect sense not to: (iv) wear flashy, expensive accessories (jewellery and watches);

2. Do your homework

After that, I send emails or text messages every two

The main reason why people feel nervous about

days not only to tell them that I’m still alive but also to

At all times: Keep your senses about you and be

travelling alone is because they’re unprepared. They

prove to them that I really can look after myself. If you

aware of your surroundings. If you think you’re

worry about basic things like how to use public

can reassure them that you’re capable of travelling

being followed, walk towards the nearest group

transport and whether it’ll be safe to walk at night.

alone, they won’t doubt you and you won’t have any

and hang around them for a while.

There’s a very simple solution to this- do a whole lot of

reason to doubt yourself.

reading about the city/country you’re going to. Compile contact numbers of your embassy or high commission, nearby 24-hour hospitals and emergency services. Don’t forget to do a Google search on local customs, dangerous places to avoid (night and day) and how 78

september 2011

So should I go, or what?

4. No, you won’t be alone

Yes, young lady, you should. Go. I did.

If you’re worried that you won’t meet anyone and

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won’t make any new friends, don’t. There’s never been a country I didn’t visit where I didn’t meet fellow travellers. You’ll never be the only traveller in

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September 2011

Remembering 9-11  

Remembering 9-11

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