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Essential the

southwest cookbook


RIO NUEVO PUBLISHERS ® P.O. Box 5250 Tucson, Arizona 85703-0250 520-623-9558 www.rionuevo.com Copyright © 2013 by Rio Nuevo Publishers. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored, introduced into a retrieval system, or otherwise copied in any form without the prior written permission of the publisher, except for brief quotations in reviews or citations. Cover design: DAVID JENNEY Design: KATIE JENNINGS Cover photos: © Rita Maas/Foodpix/Getty Images All photos by Robin Stancliff except pp. iv, 3, 6, 11, 30, 44, 46, 50, 60, 65, 76, 103, 139, 154, 163: W. Ross Humphreys; p. i: Shutterstock/Africa Studio; p. 6: Shutterstock/Larina Natalia; p. 72: Shutterstock/svry

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Noble, Marilyn.  The essential Southwest cookbook / [Marilyn Noble, Susan Lowell, Caroline Cook]        pages cm   Includes index.   ISBN-13: 978-1-933855-90-5   ISBN-10: 1-933855-90-8 1.  Cooking, American--Southwestern style.  I. Lowell, Susan, 1950- II. Cook, Caroline. III. Title.   TX715.2.S69N625 2013   641.5979—dc23        2013029288

The recipes contained in this book are to be followed exactly as written. Neither the publisher nor the author is responsible for your specific health or allergy needs that may require medical supervision, or for any adverse reactions to the recipes contained in this book.


CONTENTS 1 » 2 » 4 » 5 »

Introduction A Note on Chiles Cheese and Cream Southwestern Flavors

7 » TORTILLAS • Breads and Spoons These simple flatbreads play many roles in Southwest cuisine, from staff of life to eating utensil. But whether hot from the griddle or richly embellished, corn and wheat tortillas are absolutely fundamental. Here’s a wide range of classic tortilla-based recipes: tacos, tostadas, burritos, enchiladas, nachos, and many more.

31 » CHILES • The Essential Spark Green or ripe, fresh or dried, subtly flavored or stunningly hot, chile peppers join with other native American crops, such as corn, beans, squash, and tomatoes, to give Southwestern food its distinctive taste and glow. Here you will find recipes for chiles stuffed, grilled, stewed, sprinkled, or appetizingly diffused throughout a dish.

73 » MEATS, POULTRY & FISH •

The Grill and the Stove The Southwest has a long barbecue tradition, which is well represented here in recipes for fish, poultry, and various meats. We also include characteristic stews, braises, sausages, eggs, and entrée salads.

101 » CORN & SQUASH • The Ancient Crops We can’t live by corn alone, good as it is. Meat and vegetables such as squash and beans improve it nutritionally. But together, they work some magic to make such combinations even more delicious in soups, entrees, vegetable dishes, and pancakes.

123 » CITRUS & OTHER FRUIT •

Sweet and Sour Power An array of fruit flavors weave their way through Southwestern cuisine, beginning with cool drinks, moving to main courses (in ceviche, for example, citrus juice “cooks” fish), and finishing up with piquant fruit desserts.

45 » SALSAS & SAUCES • Savor and Flavor

137 » DESSERTS • Light and Dark Delights

Whether freshly chopped (like pico de gallo) or mashed (like guacamole) or pureed (like salsa verde) or long-simmered (like New Mexico red and green), lively, colorful sauces are as indispensable as tortillas and chiles to the Southwest kitchen.

Chocolate is native to Central America, and it features frequently in these recipes—sometimes enhanced by two other American flavors, vanilla and chile. Simple custards, cakes, fruit desserts, and fruit ices are also favorite ways to end a spicy meal.

61 » BEANS & RICE • Southwestern Staples

157 » DRINKS • Liquid Fiestas

These foods are filling, nutritious, long-lasting in the pantry, and modest in price. But it’s their satisfying taste and versatility that make them most welcome, in dishes ranging from wonderful vegetarian main courses to colorful rice on the side.

As a finale, here’s a selection of refreshing, lightly spirited beverages infused with Southwestern style, including the perfect margarita, your very own coffee liqueur, and white as well as red sangria.

165 » Sources for Southwestern Ingredients 167 » Recipe Sources 169 » Index


INTRODUCTION Taste the Southwest. If you cook these recipes you will discover its essence. Even if you’re far away, lost, and blindfolded, you can’t mistake it. First, the aromas are irresistible: lush, herbal, spicy, toasted. And then come the flavors—a mix of milky corn, meaty beans, soft sweet squash, piquant onions and tomatoes—all seasoned with a whiff of smoke, touched with buttery melted cheese, and sparked with the nip and the lingering glow of chile. That’s the essence of the Southwest. Somehow, this marvelous food is exotic and homey at the same time. In fact, the ingredients for Southwestern cooking are easy to find, and the basic recipes are simple to prepare. Many could be cooked in minutes on a campfire. It’s the taste that’s special. And no wonder, for Southwestern cuisine is the longest continuous culinary tradition in the United States. For thousands of years these regional foods have been grown and cooked in the same places, with very much the same techniques. New foods arrived as the centuries went by, of course. And recipes have been perfected. Rich in flavors, Southwestern food enjoys an equally rich cultural heritage, starting more than 10,000 years ago and still simmering along in the same geography. Ancient Southwesterners hunted game and gathered wild greens, herbs, nuts, seeds, chiles, and cactus fruit. All of these foods are still ingredients in the traditional cooking of Arizona, New Mexico, southern Utah and Colorado, parts of Texas and California, and northern Mexico. Corn, beans, squash, peppers, and domesticated turkeys arrived somewhat later from what are now Mexico and Central America. By the year 1000, the Southwestern menu probably included roasted and dried meats, spicy stews and soups, salsas, and the forerunners of tortillas, tamales, enchiladas, tacos, tostadas, and posole, as well as

corn mush, dumplings, popcorn, puddings, sweets, and beverages, including some produced from cacti and agaves. Spaniards entered the Southwest in the 1530s, bringing important additions to the local diet, such as wheat, melons, fruits, beef, pork, and mutton. Besides ranching and new kinds of farming, they introduced bread ovens and metal knives, grills, and cookware. Under Spanish and Mexican influence, more Mesoamerican crops such as tomatoes and avocados also appeared. Then in the nineteenth century Anglo-Americans and industrialization transformed the region, a process that continues today. But a modern emphasis on local, healthful, and heirloom foods now reconnects Southwestern cooks with their heritage in many good ways. Lately, some Southwestern specialties have traveled far from their origins, but as commercial and fast food they have not traveled well. To achieve true glory, we urge you to take fresh ingredients and make your own salsas, corn chips, tacos, and beans. Whip up real hot chocolate. Make a perfectly limey margarita. The effort is minimal, but the genuine flavors will amaze you. In these pages you will find Southwestern classics both ancient and modern (for this historic cuisine continues to develop in exciting new ways). We have selected more than a hundred of the best recipes we know, mostly from regional cookbooks published by Rio Nuevo Publishers over the last two decades, and we have organized them by fundamental ingredients. Each chapter revolves around one of these essentials of Southwestern cuisine and presents basic information as well as a set of indispensable dishes. From appetizers to after-dinner drinks, from tortilla soup to piñon nuts, we promise that The Essential Southwest Cookbook will guide, delight, and feed you very, very well.

Marilyn Noble, Susan Lowell, Caroline Cook INTRODUCTION • 1


A NOTE ON CHILES Many of these recipes include suggested amounts of chile. But chiles vary, and not everyone likes chiles equally hot! Chile seeds and inner pith contain most of the chemical capsaicin, which causes the characteristic burn, so you can remove and discard them to tame the final result. If you are at all in doubt, start with half the suggested amount, then taste, and gradually increase the chile. You can also taste a very tiny amount of chile before you add it, or sometimes a quick whiff will give you a sense of its potency. This is much easier than trying to cool down a

dish that’s already on fire. And die-hards can always add more chile at the table if they wish. Best remedies for a chile overdose: a mouthful of a dairy product, lettuce, or bland food. Water won’t do much, nor will ice. In fact, the use of “hot” or “heat” (as in temperature) to describe the effect of chile is common but inaccurate. The real sensation of capsaicin is more like a jellyfish or chemical sting, or a mild but persistent electric shock. For more information on handling chiles, see the Chile section on page 31.

COMMON VARIETIES Anaheim • Also known as the California green chile, this

Jalapeño • Picked green and served fresh or pickled, the

long shiny green chile is among the mildest and sweetest of the commonly used varieties.

jalapeño is probably the most widely available chile in the United States. Somewhat mild on the heat scale when green, as it ripens to red, the heat intensifies. Ripened and smoked, it becomes the chipotle.

Ancho • A dried poblano, the ancho has a smoky sweet flavor. It is among the most widely used chiles in Mexico.

Chile de árbol • A skinny, thin-fleshed, red chile, the dried árbol brings a sharp, hot-pepper essence to any dish it touches. It is commonly used to put the burn in hot sauce.

Chiltepín • A wild, round, extremely hot red or green pepper about the size of a small pea, this is the only chile native to the United States. A domesticated variety is called chile pequín.

Chipotle • A dried, smoked jalapeño, the chipotle has intense heat. Its smoky flavor infuses any food with which it is prepared.

Habanero • A truly beautiful chile, the habanero ripens from green to yellow to brilliant orange. Habaneros are intensely hot.

2 • A NOTE ON CHILES

New Mexico (also known as Hatch or Chimayo, depending on where they’re grown) • A large chile, it resembles the Anaheim but can be hotter. They can be used green or ripened to red, dried, and hung in strands or ristras.

Pasilla (Negro) • The dried pasilla, often called chile negro, offers a sharp bite. A large pepper, almost black in color, it can be used fresh for almost anything from stuffing to frying whole.

Poblano • A large, triangular chile, the poblano is a sweet, thin-skinned variety with pleasant heat. Fresh, it is commonly served stuffed; dried, it becomes the ancho.

Serrano • A small, fresh chile with smooth skin, the serrano’s heat level ranges from hot to absolute fire.


A WORD ABOUT CHILE POWDER: Be sure to look for pure chile powder. Sometimes when you buy it in the grocery store, it has other ingredients such as salt, cumin, garlic powder, or oregano, all of which can drastically change the flavor profile of the recipe.

A NOTE ON CHILES • 3


CHEESE AND CREAM Asadero • A mild white Mexican cheese that melts

Fresco • A snow-white, creamy, moist cheese like

well. Substitute cheddar, Monterey Jack, mozzarella, or a mixture.

farmer’s or pot cheese, which can be substituted for it. It has a short shelf life.

Cheddar • Either a yellow or a white cheese that melts

Monterey Jack • Readily available in American

readily. Mild or longhorn style is a favorite across the Southwest, but sharp cheddar is uncharacteristic.

supermarkets, a cheese often chosen for its delicate flavor and good melting quality. Pepper Jack, flavored with jalapeños, also turns up in Southwestern recipes.

Cotija • A semi-hard, crumbly, salty, aged, somewhat sharp white cheese favored for toppings. It can be grated, and when more fully aged, it is called añejo. Substitute dry feta, Parmesan, or Romano.

Mozzarella • Another good melting cheese that can

Crema • A slightly sour, pourable cream similar to

rope shapes. A close kin to mozzarella.

French crème fraîche. It’s often available in supermarket dairy cases, but you can also substitute commercial sour cream thinned with milk or cream, or plain heavy cream, or crème fraîche.

stand in for asadero or cheddar, though it is less flavorful.

Oaxaca • A mild, stringy white cheese often sold in Panela • Its soft, curdy texture and milky flavor resemble cottage cheese or Indian paneer cheese.

Ranchero • A mild white cheese that crumbles well for toppings and softens with heat, but does not melt into strings.

4 • CHEESE AND CREAM


SOUTHWESTERN FLAVORS Achiote • The red seeds of this tropical American shrub

Cumin • A warm, earthy-tasting spice produced from

produce both a spice and a yellow food colorant called annatto, sold either as a powder or a paste.

the seeds of Cuminum cyminum, a member of the parsley family. Cumin originated in the Middle East and India but now grows worldwide.

Anise • A Mediterranean herb with licorice-flavored seeds, which are used in the Southwest to flavor biscochitos and other confections, including hot chocolate.

Cilantro • In Southwestern cuisine, this Spanish word usually refers to the fresh green leaves of the coriander plant, native to southern Europe, North Africa, and southwestern Asia. Fresh cilantro has a strong herbal flavor that appeals to most palates but seems unpleasant to others. It is usually added raw just before serving, as its flavor fades when cooked, dried, or frozen. Tasting very differently of citrus and spice, coriander seeds are used in pastry, curries, and pickles.

Cinnamon and Canela • Different types of cinnamon come from the inner bark of several different species of trees native to Southeast Asia. The cheapest, most pungent, and also most common cinnamon on grocery shelves is actually cassia. Epicures consider canela or Cinnamomum verum (true cinnamon, a product of Sri Lanka) to have the most delicate flavor, and it is preferred in Mexico and the Southwest. Canela also has a much softer texture than cassia and is easy to grate or pulverize. Cassia sticks will break your blender.

Epazote • A native American plant with distinctive jagged leaves and a distinctive herbal, medicinal taste. Because epazote is also reputed to reduce the gassy side effects of beans, it is often cooked with them, particularly black beans. It can be used fresh or dry.

Mexican Oregano • Closely related to common oregano and marjoram, which belong to the mint family, Mexican oregano is actually a vervein (like lemon verbena). It tastes lighter and less piney than Italian or Greek oregano, but ordinary oregano can substitute, perhaps in slightly smaller quantities.

Vanilla • A precious, perfumy flavoring created from the pods of orchids native to Mexico. The second most expensive spice in the world after saffron, vanilla is yet another great gift to world gastronomy from the American tropics, along with corn, squash, tomatoes, potatoes, chiles, and chocolate.

FLAVORS • 5


TORTILLAS TORTILLAS ARE THE ORIGINAL BREAD OF THE AMERICAS, with a history that stretches all the way back to pre-Columbian times. The indigenous version was made from corn, but the Europeans brought wheat flour to the New World, and soon flour tortillas were a staple, too. Tortillas are versatile and can replace bread or crackers at almost any meal—they can be eaten cold or warm, baked or fried, wrapped around everything from beans to steak to fish or even salad, and enjoyed plain or with a little pat of butter and drizzle of honey. You can find acceptable corn and flour tortillas in most grocery stores, but quality and freshness make a big difference in this simple, essential food. It’s worth searching out a tortillería (tortilla bakery) or Latino supermarket, if you are lucky enough to live in a region where these exist. There you may find a range of sizes and perhaps also chubby gorditas, which are thicker and richer than plain tortillas. Occasionally, an entrepreneurial cook will sell homemade tortillas, which should be gratefully enjoyed whenever possible. Southwestern or Mexican restaurants sometimes sell tortillas as well, and if none of these is possible, look for a busy supermarket with good turnover. But tortillas taste wonderful when you make them yourself. It takes some practice to roll the masa (dough) into the right shape and thickness. In fact, a traditional joke is that a beginner’s tortillas resemble the shape of the cook’s home state (Arizona, Texas, Sonora, etc.). But they taste just as good as the perfectly round ones, and once you do it a few times, you’ll get the hang of it. And you might never buy tortillas at the grocery store again.

7


Carne Asada Tacos with Pico de Gallo 2 pounds top sirloin, cut across the grain into 1⁄8-inch slices Juice of 6 limes 1 teaspoon garlic powder

MOST MEXICAN COOKS USE SKIRT STEAK FOR CARNE ASADA, but top sirloin is generally easier to find and to handle. Keep the steak slightly frozen to make slicing easier. You can adjust the heat of the pico de gallo by increasing or decreasing the number of jalapeños. Pomegranate adds a touch of color and sweetness.

2 tablespoons olive oil 8 small flour tortillas or gorditas 2 cups black beans, drained, and warmed Pico de Gallo (page 52) ¼ cup pomegranate seeds Easy Guacamole (page 58)

16 • TORTILLAS

»»Sprinkle the steak slices with the

lime juice and garlic powder and toss to coat evenly, then allow them to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat, then sear the sirloin slices about 30 seconds on each side until done.

»»Warm the flour tortillas and beans. Stir the pomegranate seeds into the pico de gallo.

»» Make do-it-yourself tacos with the tortillas, beans, meat, pico de gallo, and guacamole. Serves 4


TORTILLAS • 17


Chicken Enchiladas with Red Chile Sauce 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts Salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 cups New Mexico Red Chile Sauce (page 46) ½ cup vegetable oil 1 dozen corn tortillas ¾ cup sliced green onions 1 cup sliced black olives 1 cup grated cheddar cheese 1 cup crumbled queso fresco

YOU CAN COOK THE CHICKEN FOR THIS DELICIOUS, comforting treat in advance, refrigerate for up to two days, and then make the enchiladas.

»»Place the chicken breasts in a slow

cooker. Season with salt and pepper. Cover with ¾ cup of the chile sauce. Reserve the remaining chile sauce. Cover and cook on low for 6 hours. Remove from slow cooker and shred the chicken.

»»Alternatively, if you don’t have a

slow cooker, poach the chicken breasts in enough water to cover until they’re fully cooked, about 25 minutes. Remove from the pan and shred. Return to the pan and add ¾ cup of chile sauce and simmer for 10–15 minutes.

»»Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Spray a 9 x 13-inch pan with cooking spray.

»»In a small skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. In a small saucepan, heat the remaining chile sauce over low heat just until warm.

18 • TORTILLAS

»»One at a time, dip the corn tortillas

into the hot oil until softened, about 5 seconds, and then into the chile sauce. Place in the prepared pan and top with a small amount of chicken, onions, olives, and cheddar. Roll and place seam-side-down in the pan. Repeat with the remaining tortillas, arranging the filled rolls to fit in the pan.

»»Pour the remaining red chile sauce over the top of the enchiladas, then sprinkle with the cheddar and the queso fresco.

»»Place in the oven for 25 minutes or

until the cheese is melted. Remove from the oven and serve immediately, garnishing with the remaining green onions and olives. Serves 4–6


Tortilla Soup CHICKEN THIGHS ARE EXCELLENT for this classic recipe because they have

1 cup corn oil, plus 2 tablespoons

more flavor than chicken breasts.

Salt

»»In a large stockpot, heat the 2

tablespoons of corn oil. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the chicken and place the chicken in the pot. Sauté, meaty side down, about 2 minutes. Turn the chicken and add the onion, tomato, and garlic. Continue cooking about 2 more minutes.

»»Add the stock. Bring the soup to a

boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the chicken is cooked through, about 15 minutes.

»»Meanwhile, in a heavy skillet, fry

oil until golden and crispy. Allow the tortilla strips to drain on a paper towel–lined plate.

»»Remove the chicken thighs from the soup and, with two forks, separate the meat from the bones and discard the bones.

»»Divide the chicken evenly among 6

bowls. Pour the broth over the chicken. Garnish with cilantro, lime juice, and the prepared tortilla strips. Serves 6

Freshly ground black pepper 3 chicken thighs, bone-in, skinless ½ large onion, chopped 1 tomato, chopped and seeded 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 6 cups high-quality, low-sodium chicken stock 3 corn tortillas, sliced into half-inch ribbons 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro 2 tablespoons lime juice

the tortilla strips in the cup of corn

TORTILLAS • 19


CHILES CHILES—FROM THE MILD ANAHEIM TO THE FIERY HOT HABANERO to the tiny, incendiary chiltepín—have been a staple of cooking in the American Southwest, Mexico, Central and South America, and the Caribbean for almost as long as people have lived in those parts of the world. The first peppers must have been gathered wild, but soon they were domesticated. Chiles, corn, and tomatoes remain signature flavors of New World cuisine, and chiles sing the loudest and most memorably. Chiles in their grassy, lively, green form can be found in appetizers, soups, stews, salsas, and casseroles. In their sweet, ripe, red form, they dry and store well and can be ground into powder and turned into sauces that light up the flavor of anything they touch. It’s easy to find canned green chiles in almost every supermarket, but the flavor of fresh roasted chiles can’t be beat. Buy a big batch when they’re in season, roast them (page 32), and store them in the freezer so you’ll have them during the long months of winter.

31


Roasted Green Chiles 5 pounds green chiles

ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT LIVING IN THE SOUTHWEST is the scent

of roasting chiles that permeates the air on street corners and at farmers markets in late August and September. It’s easy to do it yourself, and the smell is just as wonderful.

»»To do a large batch, preheat the

grill to high. Wash and dry the chiles and then lay them on the grill. Using a long pair of tongs, turn the chiles frequently so that they become blackened and blistered all over. Place the roasted chiles in a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap to allow the skin to loosen. Set aside for 10 to 15 minutes.

»»Remove the chiles from the bowl

seeds, if you so desire. Avoid running water over the chiles as you peel and seed them because that also rinses away the volatile oils that contain much of the flavor.

»»Use immediately, or freeze in small quantities for use later.

»»For a smaller batch, roast them

under the broiler in the oven or over a gas flame.

and peel off the skins with your fingers. You can also remove the

HOW TO HANDLE CHILES Few things are more painful than touching a sensitive body part, like your eyes, after seeding and chopping hot green chiles. Some people have been known to suffer burning fingers and hands for hours after making a batch of salsa. That’s why it’s always best to wear disposable food service gloves when you’re working with jalapeños, habaneros, or other spicy varieties. Capsaicin, the oil that makes the heat, permeates the flesh of the chile, but is most prominent in the seeds and ribs inside. If you do get it on your hands, the best way to get rid of it is to wash thoroughly with lots of soap and water, and then avoid scratching your nose or rubbing your eyes for several hours afterward. There are plenty of old wives’ tales about rinsing with lemon juice or vinegar or dipping your hands in milk, but really, soap and water is the most effective.

32 • CHILES


Chipotles en Adobo CHIPOTLES ARE SMOKED AND DRIED JALAPEÑOS and can be used to give almost any dish a smoky flavor. If you like to garden and you find yourself with a bumper crop of jalapeños, leave them on the plant until they turn red, then harvest and make your own chipotles. You can also use the green peppers. Once they’re dried, the chipotles can be stored in an airtight jar or bag, or added to adobo sauce, a spicy condiment used in sauces and main dishes.

»»Wash the jalapeños and discard

any that have blemishes or soft spots. Remove the stems and make a small slit in the side of each one.

»»Soak the wood in water for at least 1 hour. Prepare the smoker or grill and bring the heat to 200 degrees F.

»»Place the peppers in a single layer

on the top rack in the smoker, farthest away from the heat. If the peppers are too small for the rack, cut a piece of wire mesh to fit and place it on the rack underneath the peppers. Cover and allow to smoke for 3–5 hours or until the peppers are shriveled and pliable. Stir about once an hour and make sure that the temperature and smoke stay constant.

»»At this point they may be stored for

up to six months or ground in a food processor to make chipotle powder. Be sure to wear a mask and avoid inhaling the pungent dust.

»»To make the adobo sauce, combine

about 12 chipotles, the water, onion, vinegar, ketchup, garlic, cumin, oregano, and salt in a heavy saucepan. Simmer over low heat for 1–2 hours until the chipotles are soft and the sauce is reduced to about a cup. Refrigerate for up to six weeks or freeze for up to three months.

5 pounds red jalapeños Hickory, pecan, or other hardwood chips or chunks 4 cups water ½ cup dried onion ½ cup cider vinegar ¼ cup ketchup 3 cloves garlic, minced ¼ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt

Makes 1⁄2 pound of dried chipotles, or 2 cups of chipotles en adobo

»»The smoked peppers will still contain a small amount of moisture. To dry completely, use a food dehydrator or place on the rack in an oven at very low temperature until the peppers are brown and hard.

CHILES • 33


Cazuela 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 pounds stew meat 2 teaspoons salt, divided 1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, divided 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 medium onion, finely diced 4 cloves garlic, finely minced 1½ cups tomato sauce 5 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped 1 quart beef stock ½ cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped

40 • CHILES

A CAZUELA, OR CASSEROLE, IS A CLAY COOKING DISH, and it’s also a stew prepared with squash and other vegetables and meats. This Mexican version is based on a recipe that comes from an old cookbook of traditional foods eaten throughout the Southwest. Resist the urge to add a bunch of spices or other vegetables—the beauty is in the simplicity. If you have fresh lard, use it; otherwise, use olive or organic canola oil.

»»In a heavy stockpot, heat the oil.

»»Season with remaining salt and

»»If there’s not at least two

»»Serve with flour tortillas.

Pat dry the cubes of stew meat and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. When the oil is hot, add the cubes in small batches of a few at a time, turning until browned on all sides. Remove to a plate. tablespoons of oil remaining in the pot, add more and let it get hot. Sprinkle the flour over the hot oil. Stir constantly until the flour is a little bit lighter than the color of peanut butter, about 15 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and continue stirring until the onions are translucent. Stir in the tomato sauce and chiles. Add the beef stock and cilantro, and then add the browned beef.

pepper, bring to a boil, and then cover and reduce heat to keep the liquid at a simmer. Cover and cook about an hour, until the beef is tender. Uncover and let cook another ten minutes to thicken the gravy.

Serves 6


Chiles Rellenos RELLENO MEANS “FILLED” OR “STUFFED” IN SPANISH. These chiles rellenos are full of flavor and as crispy as a quick dip in the frying pan will provide. The trick to fast dipping is to dry the chiles well enough so that the batter will stick to them. To make them hold together well, it is also helpful to chill the stuffed chiles before dipping and frying them. You can substitute canned whole green chiles, which will not have stems.

»»Spray or oil a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Heat oven to 325 degrees F.

»»Clean the seeds from inside the

chiles and pat dry. Carefully slice about an inch lengthwise into each whole chile just below the stem. Insert a stick of cheese into each chile, or fill with grated cheese, and place the pods into a shallow pan, large enough to hold all 12 chiles.

»»Place the prepared baking pan into the oven to heat it slightly before putting the battered chiles into it.

»»Beat the egg whites in a medium-

size mixing bowl on high speed until stiff. Fold in the separately beaten yolks and then the flour and salt. Pour the batter over the chiles, carefully turning the chiles to coat evenly. (Leave the stems intact.) Heat enough oil in a large frying pan to cover the chiles. Meanwhile, carefully remove the baking dish from the oven and set it on a heat-safe area next to the frying pan.

»»Using a long-slotted spatula, dip

each relleno into the hot oil just long enough to cook the egg batter and then transfer it into the heated baking dish. When all the rellenos are in the baking dish, bake them in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.

12 long green chiles, roasted and peeled but with the stems in place, if possible ¾ pound longhorn cheddar cheese, cut into one-ounce sticks, or an equal amount grated 4 eggs, separated 2 tablespoons flour ½ teaspoon salt Oil for frying

»» Rellenos go well with the old-

fashioned favorites: quelites (wild greens) and beans, Spanish rice (page 70), and fresh sliced tomatoes. They are also good topped with salsa or New Mexico Green Chile Sauce (page 47). Serves 6

CHILES • 41


SALSAS

&

SAUCES

SALSAS COCIDAS (COOKED SAUCES) ARE ONE OF THE BASIC building blocks of Southwest cooking. From simple red and green sauces to complex moles and delicate cream sauces, salsas cocidas add depth and flavor to almost any meat, fish, or vegetarian dish. They make an excellent braising sauce for poultry and pork, and it’s not unusual to find them garnishing—or smothering—burritos, eggs, and tamales throughout the Southwest. Red chile-based sauces tend to have an earthy, spicy flavor profile, while green sauces are usually a little on the lighter, brighter side with a more sharply vegetal taste. Either version can be as hot as you want to make it, depending on the type of chiles you use. If you’re feeling festive, you can smother your burrito with both. In the Southwest, that’s known as Christmas style. Most grocery stores carry canned or bottled sauces, but it’s easy to make your own. They freeze well, so you can make a big batch and always have some on hand for when the mood strikes. Once you’ve mastered the techniques, you can get creative at any meal of the day. Salsas crudas (fresh, uncooked sauces) are frequently served as a condiment in the Southwest. While the most traditional recipes use some combination of tomatoes, peppers, onion, and garlic, you can also make a salsa from almost any combination of fruits and vegetables. Your own fresh salsa, even the simplest one, will taste miraculously better than the store-bought kind. It takes only a few common ingredients and a few moments of chopping.

45


New Mexico Red Chile Sauce 24 dried red New Mexico chiles 4 cups beef stock, chicken stock, or water 2 tablespoons bacon grease, lard, or vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano Salt Honey (optional)

HERE IS A VERSION OF NEW MEXICO’S famous red chile sauce. Mixed with shredded pork, it is used as a tamale filling, but all by itself it is also ladled over tamales as well as enchiladas, huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos, stuffed sopaipillas, chiles rellenos, and almost anything else you can think of. You may not need 4 cups of the sauce for your recipe, but you might as well make the whole batch. Freeze extra portions in small resealable plastic containers for later use.

»»In a large cast-iron skillet over

medium heat, toast the chiles on both sides (you’ll have to do this in batches) until they soften slightly and become aromatic. When the chiles are cool enough to handle, remove the stems and seeds.

»»Transfer the chiles to a deep

saucepan and pour the stock or water over them. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the chiles to rest, about 15 minutes.

46 • SALSAS & SAUCES

»»Working in batches, puree the chiles with their soaking liquid.

»»In the cast-iron skillet over medium

heat, melt the bacon grease. Add the garlic and flour and cook, stirring until the mixture becomes golden. Add the pureed chiles and stir quickly while the sauce bubbles and spatters. Reduce the heat, add the oregano, and simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt. If the sauce is a little bitter, mellow it with about a teaspoon of honey to taste. Makes about 4 cups


New Mexico Green Chile Sauce THIS IS PROBABLY NEW MEXICO’S MOST FAMOUS RECIPE; it’s one that visitors to the state always remember. The sauce is best made with freshly roasted chiles, but you can also use canned or frozen chiles. Pour leftover sauce over eggs, enchiladas, burritos, or tacos.

New Mexico Green Chile Sauce

»»In a skillet over medium heat, sauté

2 tablespoons lard or oil

the onion and garlic in the lard until soft.

»»Sprinkle the flour over the onion

»»Add the chiles, tomato, and salt, then reduce the heat and simmer about 15 minutes. Serve warm. Makes about 2 1⁄2 cups

mixture and cook, stirring, until the flour becomes golden. Whisking constantly, pour in the chicken stock and continue whisking until it is completely incorporated.

1 small white onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2 cups homemade or low-sodium chicken stock 1 cup chopped roasted New Mexico chiles, peeled, stemmed, and seeded (page 2) 1 small tomato, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Smoky Chipotle Salsa Roja IF YOUR TAMALES TURN OUT DRIER than you had expected, you can throw this salsa together in a flash and your guests will swoon with joy. It’s also good on chiles rellenos, burritos, or huevos rancheros.

Smoky Chipotle Salsa Roja 1 tablespoon lard or vegetable oil ½ cup diced white onion

»»Heat the lard in a heavy-bottomed

saucepan over medium heat and add the onion, garlic, tomatoes, and chipotles. Fry the mixture, stirring constantly, for 5–10 minutes, until the

sauce has thickened. Season to taste with salt and serve warm.

1 clove garlic, minced

Makes about 2 1⁄2 cups

2 chipotles in adobo, minced (page 33)

1 can (15-ounce) crushed tomatoes

Salt

SALSAS & SAUCES • 47


Pico de Gallo Pico de Gallo 1 pound tomatoes, chopped

PICO DE GALLO, THE MOST COMMON SALSA in Mexico, is quick and easy and goes well with almost anything. Use it to top eggs, steaks, and tacos, or simply serve it with tortilla chips.

1 small onion, chopped 1–2 jalapeños, seeded and finely chopped ⁄3 cup chopped cilantro

1

Juice of 1 lime, or more, to taste

»»In a bowl, combine the tomatoes,

onion, jalapeños, and cilantro. Add the lime juice and salt to taste. Allow the mixture to sit at room temperature

for about 30 minutes to let the flavors fully develop. Makes about 3 cups

Salt

Salsa de Molcajete Salsa de Molcajete 2 cloves garlic ¼ cup chopped white onion 1–2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and chopped 3 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped Salt

IMPRESS YOUR GUESTS by making this traditional salsa with a big lavarock mortar and pestle (molcajete and tejolote). If you don’t have one, put the ingredients in the work bowl of your food processor and pulse until it is blended but still chunky. Serve the salsa in the molcajete with freshly fried tortilla chips (page 10). If you prefer green salsa rather than red, substitute tomatillos for the tomatoes.

»»Using the tejolote, grind the garlic

to a paste in the molcajete. Add the onion and jalapeños and grind until blended. Add the tomatoes, crushing

and grinding until blended but still chunky. Season to taste with salt. Makes about 1 1⁄2 cups

VARIATION

Salsa Verde de Molcajete »»Replace the tomatoes with ½ pound tomatillos, husked and chopped, and add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves. 52 • SALSAS & SAUCES

Makes about 1.5 cups


PICO DE GALLO

TORTILLAS • 53


MEATS, POULTRY & FISH IN THE SOUTHWEST, MAIN COURSES MAY BE COOKED ON A STOVETOP, in an oven, or over a fire. Fish and poultry are popular as well as various red meats, and all these techniques and ingredients are represented here—with a special emphasis on outdoor cooking. Even though we all live inside and have modern kitchens with every conceivable convenience, there’s still something primal about cooking over an open flame, listening to the sizzle of the meat, and breathing in the aroma of wood smoke. Grilling is a big part of Southwestern cooking because it imparts a special flavor you can’t get any other way. And there’s also the fact that cooking outdoors is more convivial than crowding all of your guests into a cramped kitchen. Barbecuing, which is slow-roasting meat over a low fire, inspires fanaticism and good-natured rivalry all over the country. Grilling, on the other hand, involves a quick sear on a hot flame. Some people prefer their grilled meats with a little sprinkle of salt and pepper and nothing else, but if you want to add a Southwestern flavor, the easiest way is to make your own rubs, marinades, and barbecue sauces. Marinating is a good technique to add flavor and tenderize beef, pork, or poultry. It requires advance planning because the meat has to sit in the sauce for several hours or overnight. Rubs are combinations of spices and herbs that go on the meat shortly before it goes on the heat. It’s fun to experiment with different combinations on different cuts and types of meat. Barbecue sauce usually goes on the meat right after it comes off the fire. While you can buy bottled sauce and probably be happy, it’s another one of those things that’s easy to make and gives you a better result. The nice thing about using rubs, marinades, and sauces is that you can add extra flavor to vegetables and inexpensive cuts of meat, impressing your family and friends with your culinary genius.

73


Chile-Braised Lamb Shanks with Cilantro Gremolata 1 pound dried red chiles (New Mexico or pasilla) 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 teaspoons ground cumin Juice of 1 lemon

THIS IS BASED ON A RECIPE developed by the American Lamb Board, and we’ve enhanced it with gremolata (a pungent cilantro and lemon garnish). It is normally made with parsley and served with osso buco, the Italian dish of braised veal shanks. Because lamb shanks are so much smaller than veal shanks, use one whole shank per person. Serve with polenta or mashed potatoes.

½ teaspoon salt

»»Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

4 lamb shanks

»»Arrange the chiles on a baking sheet

2 cups dark beer such as Negra Modelo Cilantro Gremolata (recipe follows)

and toast 2–5 minutes, until they smell toasted but before they burn. Remove them from the oven and set aside.

»»When the chiles are cool enough

to handle, remove the stems and seeds. Tear the chiles into pieces and put them into a large saucepan. Add enough water to cover, bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and allow the chiles to soak until completely softened.

»»Drain and reserve most of the

water. Transfer the chiles to a blender and puree, adding just enough of the reserved water to make a thick, smooth paste. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Add the garlic, cumin, lemon juice, and salt.

80 • MEATS, POULTRY & FISH

»»Trim any excess fat from the lamb shanks. Cover the meat with the chile paste and let it marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

»»Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. »»Place the meat in a deep roasting

pan. Add the beer and enough water to come halfway up the sides of the shanks. Cover the pan with foil and cook until the meat is very tender.

»»Remove the shanks from the pan.

Skim the fat from the pan drippings and whisk in enough water to make a rich sauce.

»»Serve the lamb with plenty of sauce, garnished with Cilantro Gremolata (recipe follows). Serves 4


Cilantro Gremolata »»Combine all ingredients in a small

Makes 1⁄4 cup

bowl.

Cilantro Gremolata 3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Grilled Flank or Skirt Steak with Mole Verde

Finely grated zest of 1 large lemon

FLANK STEAK IS A FLAVORFUL cut that comes, literally, from the belly of the beast. Skirt steak is also full of flavor, but don’t overcook either of them, or they will toughen. If you have leftover slices of steak, reheat them in a pan, toss with any mole, and tuck into a toasted bun for a quick and tasty sandwich.

Grilled Flank or Skirt Steak with Mole Verde

»»Using a mortar and pestle, crush the

garlic and salt into a paste. In a small bowl, combine the garlic paste, cumin, oregano, black pepper, and olive oil.

»»Lay the flank steak on a cutting

board and make a series of shallow, crisscrossed cuts on the surface of the meat; flip and repeat on the other side. This will help the marinade penetrate and keep the meat from curling on the grill.

»»Rub the meat all over with the

garlic and herb mixture and put it in a resealable plastic container or large zippered storage bag. Allow the meat to rest in the refrigerator 2 hours or overnight.

»»Preheat the grill to high. Leave the

meat in the refrigerator until just before you put it on the grill. Grill to medium rare, about 4–5 minutes on each side. Transfer the steak to a platter, cover with foil, and allow it to rest 10 minutes.

»»Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat the Mole Verde.

6 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons ground cumin 1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil 1½ pounds flank or skirt steak 2 cups Mole Verde (page 50)

»»Slice the flank steak against the

grain into thin strips. Serve drizzled with mole. Serves 4

MEATS, POULTRY & FISH • 81


Chorizo Chorizo 3½ pounds ground beef 1¼ cups chile powder 6 cloves garlic, finely minced ½ teaspoon dried cilantro ¾ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 cups canned tomato sauce 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Chorizo and Egg Breakfast Scramble 1 pound chorizo 6 eggs 3 large potatoes, peeled and grated Salt Freshly ground black pepper 6 large flour tortillas, warmed 1 cup grated asadero or Monterey Jack cheese

IN SPAIN, CHORIZO IS A HARD, CURED SAUSAGE, but in the Southwest, chorizo is a fresh mix of meat, chile powder, and seasonings. This recipe calls for ground beef, but you can also use pork or a combination. Be sure to use highquality ground meat with a 90:10 or 85:15 fat ratio and pure chile powder, and your chorizo will be healthful as well as tasty.

»»In a large bowl, place the ground

beef, chile powder, garlic, cilantro, oregano, vinegar, tomato sauce, salt, and pepper. Mix with your hands until the ingredients are incorporated, but don’t overmix.

tightly in plastic. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days to allow the flavors to mellow. At that point, the chorizo may be cooked or frozen. Makes 3.5 pounds

Chorizo and Egg Breakfast Scramble IF YOU USE STORE-BOUGHT CHORIZO, try to choose the highest quality and be sure to drain any excess fat on paper towels before serving. For a quick breakfast to go, turn it into a burrito.

»»In a large skillet, cook the chorizo

over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon to break up any chunks. Drain any excess grease, if necessary. When the meat is cooked through but not browned, crack the eggs into the skillet and stir into the chorizo. When the eggs are set, remove the mixture to a warm bowl and cover. Set aside.

»»While the chorizo is cooking, drain

the grated potatoes in a colander lined 84 • MEATS, POULTRY & FISH

»»Form into a large loaf and wrap

with paper towels. When drained, pat dry.

»»To the same skillet add the grated potatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, turning, until browned on both sides.

»»For burritos, place a generous

helping of the chorizo, potatoes, and cheese on each tortilla and serve with your favorite salsa. Serves 6


CHORIZO AND EGG BREAKFAST SCRAMBLE TORTILLAS • 85


CORN

&

SQUASH

CORN AND SQUASH ARE TWO INVALUABLE CROPS grown in the Americas since agriculture began. Both corn and squash can be preserved by drying, canning, or freezing, which makes them accessible year-round, even when they’re not in season. Winter squashes, with their hard rinds, will keep in a cool place for months, and their bright orange flesh adds some color to those dreary gray days of winter. Of course, corn is best in the summer when it comes right out of the garden while it’s still sweet and tender. You don’t have to do much to it—bring a pot of water to a boil, add the ears of corn, and turn the heat off. Let it sit for about 5 minutes, and then drain, douse with butter and a little salt and pepper, and you have heaven. To freeze corn, pick ears at the peak of freshness, rinse them well, and scrape the kernels from the cob with a sharp knife. Place them in a zippered plastic bag, squeeze out the air, and freeze for up to six months. Summer squash also freezes well. If you have an abundance of zucchini in your garden, grate it and freeze it. You can use it all winter in breads, casseroles, or even meatloaf. Corn, above all, is a staple in Southwestern cooking. It shows up in breads, soups, tortillas, and in one of everyone’s favorite comfort foods, tamales.

101


Basic Masa and Tamales 1 bag dried corn husks 2 pounds freshly ground masa for tamales, or 3 cups masa harina mixed with 2 cups warm water 1 cup fresh lard, at room temperature (page 105) 1½ teaspoons salt 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1½ cups homemade or low-sodium chicken stock

IF YOU LIVE NEAR A TORTILLERÍA or a large Latin American grocery store, you may be able to buy moist, freshly ground masa, which is ideal for making tamales. Be sure to ask for “masa para tamales” that has not already been mixed with lard or shortening, and find out whether or not it has already been salted. If so, omit the salt in the recipe. (If the store renders fresh lard, buy some of that, too!) Otherwise, you can make your own dough at home using masa harina and water. Wherever you buy masa you should also be able to buy packages of hojas or dried corn husks for wrapping the tamales. Before use, clean the husks of any corn silk, cover them with water, and soak them until pliable. You will need some extra husks, as they tend to split, but narrow husks can easily be overlapped if necessary. Tamales are traditionally steamed for about an hour in large enamelware pots, which you may also find for sale next to the husks and the masa. But you can use any steamer, or you can also pressure-cook them.

»»Clean and soak the corn husks until they’re softened and pliable.

»»Meanwhile, if you’re using masa

harina, pour it into a bowl and add 2 cups warm water. Work the mixture into a dough with your hands, then set it aside to rest for about 15 minutes.

»»Add the lard to the work bowl of a

standing mixer fixed with the whisk attachment (or use a regular hand mixer in a large bowl) and beat it together with the salt and baking powder until light and fluffy.

»»If you’re using a stand mixer, switch to the paddle attachment. While beating, add the reconstituted or fresh masa by handfuls into the work bowl. Add the stock and beat until combined. Taste the mixture and add salt if necessary. 102 • CORN & SQUASH

»»Continue beating until the masa is

light and fluffy, 15 to 20 minutes. The masa is ready when a grape-sized ball of dough floats in a glass of cold water. If the dough sinks, continue beating 5 minutes longer, then test it again.

»»When the masa is ready, remove

the corn husks from the water and set upright in a colander to let any remaining water drain.

»»To make tamales, spread out the

husk on a work surface, spread about ⅓ cup of masa down the center, and then add 1–2 tablespoons of any filling. Don’t overfill; when the tamale is folded, the masa should enclose the filling. Fold over the sides and then either fold down the top and bottom and tie the tamale together with a strip of husk, or fold over the top of


VARIATION the husk, leaving one end open, and lay or prop the tamales fold sides down, to keep them closed until cooked.

»»Stand the tamales in a steamer

Vegetarian Masa

ALTHOUGH LARD GIVES THE BEST RESULTS for tamales, you can also make a perfectly acceptable version using the same amount of palm oil or vegetable shortening. Under no circumstances should you try to use margarine for tamales; it simply will not work. Look for solid palm oil and other trans-fat-free shortenings at your natural foods store.

pot or pressure cooker with plenty of water in the bottom, at least two inches to prevent scorching. Steam for one hour or pressure cook for 40 minutes. Tamales are done when the masa has lost its pale floury color and has turned slightly golden and become somewhat firm. Remove from heat, keep covered, and allow to cool slightly. They continue to set as they cool.

»»Serve hot with your favorite sauce. Be sure to provide an extra plate or bowl on the table for the discarded husks. Any leftovers may be frozen. Makes enough for about 24 medium tamales

CORN & SQUASH • 103


Red Chile Pork Posole 2 cups dried hominy (or 2 large cans hominy) 1 large onion, diced, plus 1 cup diced for garnish 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil or lard 1 pound pork stew meat 2 dried New Mexico chile pods, stemmed, seeded, and chopped ¼ teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

HERE IS SOME REAL SOUTHWESTERN COMFORT FOOD. Make it when you’ll be home all day and are expecting a crowd for dinner. You can substitute canned hominy for dried posole (it’s the same thing and is often sold in the Southwest as nixtamal), but canned hominy can be a bit soggy, so add it later. Serve with warm flour tortillas on the side.

»»Put the dried hominy in a large bowl and cover with plenty of lightly salted water. Allow to soak overnight.

»»In a large stockpot, sauté the onions and garlic in oil or lard. Add the pork in batches and cook until the cubes are browned on all sides. Remove the meat from the pot and set aside.

»»Place into the same pot the chiles,

cloves, salt, drained hominy, and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer at least 3 hours, or until the hominy kernels are puffy and tender. If you are using canned hominy, drain and add it after 2 hours. Add more water if necessary.

112 • CORN & SQUASH

»»Add the cooked pork and cook 30 minutes longer.

»»Serve hot and garnish with cilantro and onion.

Serves 8–10


TORTILLAS • 113


CITRUS & OTHER FRUIT THE SOUTHWEST is known for its abundance of fruit-growing regions. From the citrus groves of Arizona and Texas, to the apple and cherry orchards of New Mexico and the avocados, peaches, melons, and grapes of Southern California, fresh fruit is a vital part of Southwest cuisine, and valued for its zest and sourness as well as its sweetness. The acidity of citrus lends itself well to brightening the flavor of soups and stews, and it plays an important role in marinades, especially when making ceviche, which is seafood “cooked” in citrus juice. Oranges, tangerines, lemons, limes, and grapefruit are all enjoyed in both sweet and spicy dishes, as well as on their own. And then there are the exotic indigenous fruits. Prickly pear fruit is both earthy and sweet, and can be turned into syrup or preserves. Tamarind is a leguminous fruit that comes from a tree native to Africa, but it grows throughout the tropics and can be found all over Mexico. If you have trouble finding the pods, you can also find tamarind paste in Asian or Mexican groceries. It’s used in savory dishes and is also a popular flavoring for drinks and sauces. Let’s not forget the pomegranate—the round, heavy fruit with the jewel-like, crunchy garnet seeds, brought to the New World by the Spaniards. You’ll find pomegranate seeds sprinkled on salads, adding a pleasing crunch and color to salsas, or juiced and added to everything from barbecue sauces to jams, jellies, and drinks. Perhaps because of the spices and complex flavors involved in Southwest cuisine, fruit is a traditional way to end a meal.

123


Chile-Spiced Grilled Fruit ¼ cup canola oil 1 tablespoon citrus juice 1 serrano chile, chopped (with seeds and ribs) ¼ vanilla bean pod 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon chile powder 1 teaspoon sugar 4 serving-size pieces of fresh, ripe fruits (for example, 2 large peaches, cut in half; 4 slices of pineapple, 1 inch thick; 4 bananas, peeled and cut in half lengthwise; or 2 pears, halved and cored)

THE TINGLE OF CHILES ADDS AN ENTICING TASTE sensation to the smoky sweetness of grilled ripe fruit. This recipe can serve as a sweet/savory side dish for your favorite grilled meats and it also becomes a satisfying dessert when served with ice cream or biscotti.

»»If your grill is not already hot from preparing the main course, heat it to medium-low. If the grates are dirty from use, clean them or cover them with aluminum foil.

»»Combine the oil, juice, and chopped

chile; scrape the vanilla bean seeds into the mixture, then include the pod. Allow to sit for 10 minutes.

»»Combine the salt, chile powder, and sugar; set aside.

»»Set the fruit on a baking pan or

large plate. Brush generously with the marinade mixture on all sides. Allow to sit for 5 minutes. Also brush the grill grates or aluminum foil with some of the marinade.

128 • CITRUS & OTHER FRUIT

»»If grilling directly on the grates,

brush off some of the marinade to prevent flare-ups.

»»Season the fruit pieces with the salt mixture.

»»Gently place the fruit, cut side down, on the grill. Do not move it for at least 2 minutes. Cooking time will depend on the texture of the fruit. Turn it over when dark golden grill marks are visible. Continue to cook until the fruit is soft and heated through. Use a spatula to gently remove the fruit from the grill. Serves 4


Jicama Pineapple Salad THIS SWEET AND SLIGHTLY PIQUANT SALAD would also work well as a salsa to serve with grilled chicken or fish. Or just add chips and you’ve got an appetizer.

»»Whisk together the oil, vinegar,

garlic, cilantro, and cumin in a small bowl to blend. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

»»Combine jicama and pineapple

⁄3 cup canola oil

1

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar or sherry vinegar 1 tablespoon minced garlic

in a bowl and toss with just enough dressing to coat evenly.

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Serves 4

Salt

¼ teaspoon ground cumin Freshly ground black pepper

JICAMA Jicama resembles a large, beige turnip, sometimes covered in a waxy coating to extend the shelf life. But inside that drab exterior lives a sweet taste and crunchy texture. The smaller and heavier they are, the better the flavor. To serve, use a knife to remove the peel and slice the jicama into strips. Sprinkle with some lime juice and then dust with chile powder, cayenne pepper, and salt for a quick appetizer. You can also add jicama to a salad. Arrange red and green bell peppers, fresh orange slices, Kalamata olives, and jicama over a bed of red leaf lettuce and drizzle it with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Finish with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve it as a side or starter with your favorite grilled steak.

1 small jicama, grated with largest holes of grater 1 cup diced fresh pineapple

CITRUS & OTHER FRUIT • 129


Ceviche ½ pound fresh medium shrimp, peeled and deveined ½ pound fresh medium scallops ½ pound firm white fish, skinned and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 cup fresh lime juice ⁄3 cup chopped red onion

1

2 tomatoes, finely chopped 2 fresh jalapeños, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped

THIS RECIPE WILL MAKE YOU THINK OF HAPPY TIMES on the beach in Mexico, sitting under a shady palapa with a cold Pacifico and a platter of fish “cooked” in lime juice—even if you’ve never gone south of the border. Here the presentation is a little more refined, but the spirit is still there. Use the freshest seafood you can find, and don’t forget the cerveza!

»»Combine the shrimp, scallops, and

fish in a glass dish; then cover them with lime juice. Refrigerate for 8 hours.

»»Drain the seafood mixture and

½ yellow pepper, finely chopped

combine with the red onion, tomatoes, jalapeños, yellow pepper, and avocado.

1 avocado, finely chopped

»»Whisk together the olive oil,

½ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon minced cilantro 1 clove garlic, minced ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 bay leaves

130 • CITRUS & OTHER FRUIT

cilantro, garlic, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl; add the bay leaves after whisking. Pour this over the fish mixture and refrigerate for 1 hour.

»»Drain the ceviche and remove the bay leaves.

»»For each serving, line a stemmed

glass with lettuce leaves, then spoon in some ceviche. Garnish with a sprig of cilantro and a wedge of lime, and serve with a basket of hot tortilla chips (page 10). Serves 6


TORTILLAS • 131


DESSERTS DESSERT IS USUALLY SIMPLE IN SOUTHWEST CUISINE—fresh fruit, cookies, or ice cream are all common ends to a satisfying meal. But on special occasions, when families and friends gather, the desserts become more complex. Flan (a Southwestern version of crème caramel), cakes, and custard desserts are all a part of everything from baby showers and birthday parties to graduations and weddings. Chocolate, with its origins in Mexico and Central America, is a favorite ingredient. When cooking with chocolate, it’s important to understand the various types and what they add to a recipe.

Bittersweet, semisweet, or dark chocolate In the United States, dark chocolate must contain no milk powder and a minimum of 35% cocoa solids. Better brands contain a higher percentage. The percentage of sugar usually determines whether a bar is bittersweet or semisweet.

Chocolate chips Designed to hold their shape during the baking process, chocolate chips come in milk, dark, and white chocolate. Because they have a different cocoa butter content, they aren’t a great replacement for bar chocolate when cooking or baking.

Cocoa powder The pulverized solid left after the cocoa butter is removed from chocolate liquor, it can be used as a seasoning in savory dishes or to add chocolaty richness to desserts. Natural cocoa is simply pulverized; Dutch cocoa has been treated to neutralize the slight acidity of the natural powder.

Mexican chocolate Very sweet and flavored with cinnamon, Mexican chocolate comes in tablets that should be grated before using. It’s not good to eat by itself because it’s gritty due to the high granulated sugar content. Ibarra and Abuelita are popular brands found in many grocery stores.

137


Biscochitos 6–8 cups all-purpose flour 5 teaspoons baking powder Salt 1¾ cups white sugar, plus 5 teaspoons 1 cup brown sugar 2 cups butter, lard, or shortening 4 eggs

THE BISCOCHITO (ALSO SPELLED BIZCOCHITO) IS THE OFFICIAL STATE COOKIE of New Mexico. These excellent confections, delicately spiced and not too sweet, are essential to many holidays, usually making their appearance right after Thanksgiving to be shared as gifts or stored away for holiday parties later. Either lard, which is traditional, or butter will make a much tastier cookie than shortening.

»»Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. »»Sift or whisk 6 cups of the flour with

1 cup milk

the baking powder and a big pinch of salt, and set aside.

2 teaspoons anise seeds (or more if you like the flavor)

»»Cream together 1¾ cups of white

¾ cup water 2½ teaspoons cinnamon

sugar and the brown sugar with the butter. Add the eggs and milk and mix well.

»»Meanwhile, simmer the anise for

10 minutes in the water and then stir it into the sugar, fat, and egg mixture. Gradually add the sifted flour mixture.

»»Prepare the rolling surface and

pastry rolling pin with a light dusting of flour. Be careful because too much flour will toughen the dough. Roll out the dough approximately ¼ inch thick and cut with a cookie cutter. A 3-inch size is best, and let the shape be dictated by the occasion. Easter eggs are just as welcome as hearts or stars, depending on the season. In Santa Fe, a fleur-de-lis shape is popular.

138 • DESSERTS

»»Mix the remaining sugar with the

cinnamon and dust the cookies with the mixture. Transfer them to a cookie sheet and bake for about 10 minutes. Watch them carefully and be ready to remove them when they reach an even, delicate brown. They keep well. Makes 6 dozen cookies


Piñon Cookies THESE WILL REMIND YOU OF THE SUGAR COOKIES known as “tea cakes,” but with a Southwestern flair. Try to find local or European pine nuts if you can, even if it means shelling them yourself. The nuts imported from China have been associated with health problems in the United States.

1 can (8 ounces) almond paste

»»Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.

¼ cup all-purpose flour

»»Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

»»In a food processor fitted with a

metal blade, place the almond paste (breaking it up into small pieces), sugar, powdered sugar, and flour. Pulse several times until the mixture is finely ground. Add the egg whites a little at a time, just until the dough comes together. You may or may not need all of the egg whites, depending on the moisture content of the almond paste and other ingredients. Remove the blade from the food processor.

»»Place the piñons in a shallow dish.

With a spoon and damp hands, scoop a small amount of dough, roll it into a ball, and roll it in the piñons until it is lightly coated. Place the cookie on a prepared cookie sheet. Repeat until all the dough is used, placing the cookies about 2 inches apart.

½ cup sugar ½ cup powdered sugar, plus more for garnish 2 large egg whites, lightly beaten 1 cup piñon nuts

»»Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 20–25 minutes, or until the cookies are firm. Remove the cookies from the sheets using a thin spatula and let them cool on wire racks. Dust with powdered sugar immediately before serving. Makes 2 dozen

DESSERTS • 139


Flan THIS IS A GREAT PARTY DESSERT, especially after a spicy meal.

1¼ cup sugar, divided

Caramel: If your large flan mold

⁄3 cup water

is stovetop-safe, you can cook the caramel directly in it. If not, use a small saucepan. (To help the caramel spread evenly, warm porcelain or glass molds while you caramelize the sugar.)

1

2½ cups whole milk 3 eggs 3 egg yolks 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

»» Swirl ¾ cup sugar and water over

medium-high heat until the sugar dissolves. Boil the syrup, swirling occasionally, for 3–5 minutes, or until it starts to change color. Watch carefully; it will turn from clear to yellow to gold to light brown. You want a rich amber brown, but remember that the caramel will continue to darken briefly off the heat.

»»When you think the color is brown enough, either tilt the mold to cover the inside with caramel, or pour it into the warmed molds and quickly tilt to coat. Set aside while you prepare the flan.

»»Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Flan: In a small saucepan, warm the milk just until it starts to steam. Also bring a kettle of water to a simmer to use as a water bath to bake the flan.

»»Beat the eggs and yolks together in

a medium mixing bowl, gradually add the remaining ½ cup sugar, and whisk

150 • DESSERTS

until the mixture is light. Still beating, slowly add the hot milk and vanilla. Set the prepared mold in a roasting pan and strain in the mixture. Pull out the oven rack, set the pan on it, and pour enough simmering water into the pan to reach halfway up the sides of the mold.

»»Bake until the flan is barely set and

a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Watch carefully. If you see any bubbles in the water bath, add cool water. Baking time varies from 20–30 minutes for small custard cups to over an hour for large, deep flans.

»»Cool the flan in its mold on a wire

rack, then refrigerate. Flan unmolds best when it has been well chilled. To serve, run the tip of a knife around the edge, place a serving dish (deep enough to catch the caramel sauce) upside down over the mold, and quickly flip the two. The flan should drop neatly onto the dish. If it does not, dip the mold in warm water for a moment or two, and try again. Scrape out remaining caramel, spoon it around the flan, and serve. Makes a 1-quart flan or 6 individual 6-ounce flans


Orange Flan THIS WILL FEED A CROWD, so make it a day or two in advance of your special occasion. Hold it in the baking dish in the refrigerator, and then unmold it and add the mandarin oranges and fresh raspberries just before serving.

»»Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. »»Pour the sugar into a heavy, medium skillet. Place the skillet over medium heat until the sugar begins to melt. Reduce the heat to low and, without stirring, allow the sugar to melt and turn golden-brown. Working quickly, pour the resulting caramel over the bottom of a 3-quart glass baking dish, tilting to spread up the sides.

»»In a large bowl, whisk the eggs

until blended and then whisk in the sweetened condensed milk, whole milk, vanilla, orange extract, salt, and liqueur. Blend until smooth. Strain the mixture into the prepared baking dish. Cover the dish with foil. Place a large roasting pan of warm water on the

oven’s middle rack. Set the baking dish into the roasting pan. The water should reach half the depth of the baking dish.

»»Bake for 1½ hours until the center

feels just firm when pressed. Remove from the water bath and cool on a wire rack to room temperature, then refrigerate until serving.

»»To serve, run a knife around the

edges of the baking dish. Place a large serving platter over the dish and turn both upside down. Gently shake the dish to release the flan. Use the drained mandarin slices to create flowers on the top of the flan, using the raspberries for the centers.

1½ cups sugar 8 eggs 2 cans (14 ounces each) sweetened condensed milk (not evaporated) 1¼ cups whole milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 teaspoon orange extract ¼ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur (page 163) 2 cans mandarin oranges, drained, for garnish Raspberries, for garnish

Serves 12–15

DESSERTS • 151


DRINKS LIQUEURS, COCKTAILS, WINE, AND BEER are all fitting accompaniments to most Southwest dishes. Alcohol will cut down on the feel of spicy chiles in your mouth, and the crisp, refreshing flavors of the drinks complement the richness of the food. And then there’s the festive aspect of gathering a group of friends or neighbors together for margaritas and guacamole on the patio on a warm summer evening. Liqueurs in the Southwest are usually based on citrus fruits or coffee. Kahlúa is probably the best known of the coffee liqueurs made in Mexico, and it’s very easy to make your own version at home. It just takes a little patience, since most liqueurs require a month or more of aging before they’re ready to drink. Triple sec is an orange liqueur typically used in margaritas—it’s a blend of orange peel and clear alcohol, which is also easy to make yourself. Grand Marnier, also commonly used in margaritas, is an orange brandy-based liqueur with a slightly more complex flavor than triple sec. The Southwest is home to a burgeoning wine industry, with regions in Arizona, New Mexico, southern California, and Colorado—and Sonora and Baja California as well. It’s always a fun weekend adventure to drive through the various wineproducing areas, sampling the offerings of the local vintners, but if you want to do something festive at home, make sangria. It’s a drink with origins in Spain, but it’s been adopted throughout the Southwest as a favorite summertime party drink. And then there’s beer. Lots of local craft breweries are popping up all over the Southwest, but Mexican beers are still a favorite, served ice cold with a dash of salt and a squeeze of lime. Or you can try beer cocktails like the michelada. There’s no pretension with spirits in Southwest cuisine. Drink what tastes good and don’t be afraid to get creative.

157


Sangria Blanca 2 lemons 2 limes 2 oranges 2 cups water 1 cup sugar 1 bottle (1½ liters) dry white wine ¼ cup triple sec or other orange liqueur 1 quart club soda Crushed ice

USE A CRISP, YET INEXPENSIVE, Sauvignon Blanc to blend with the citrus flavors. This is a festive party drink, especially when you serve it in a glass pitcher where the colors of the fruit shine through.

»»Slice the lemons, limes, and oranges, reserving the ends. Wrap the slices in plastic wrap and refrigerate.

»»Place the ends in a saucepan with

the water and sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. Remove the fruit pieces and then strain.

VARIATION

»»In a large pitcher or punch bowl,

combine the sugar syrup, triple sec, and wine. Add sliced oranges and lemons, then pour in the club soda. Serve over crushed ice. Serves 8

Sangria Roja

AS PRETTY AS IT IS TASTY, this makes a great summer party drink. The recipe easily doubles for a crowd.

»»Follow the recipe for Sangria

Blanca, but use 5 lemons and 3 oranges in place of the citrus, and add ½ cup brandy to a 1½-liter bottle of dry red wine.

160 • DRINKS


Mocha Buzz Mocha Buzz

A GREAT DRINK FOR BRUNCH on a cold winter morning.

¾ cup milk

»»In a saucepan, heat the milk and

¾ cup half-and-half 4 ounces premium bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped 2 shots espresso

Serves 2

half-and-half just to a simmer. Add the chocolate and stir to melt. Remove from heat and stir in the espresso and liqueur. Pour into mugs.

2 shots coffee liqueur (page 162)

Spicy Maria Spicy Maria 1 quart tomato juice

SPECIALTY FOOD STORES USUALLY CARRY A WIDE VARIETY of hot sauces with differing levels of heat. Experiment until you find one that suits your taste. If you like it really spicy, use extra-hot horseradish.

½ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons horseradish 1 teaspoon Rose’s lime juice 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce ½ teaspoon hot pepper sauce 1½ cups vodka Cracked ice Freshly ground black pepper 6 lime wedges 12 jalapeño-stuffed green olives 6 celery ribs, leafy tops intact

162 • DRINKS

»»Combine the tomato juice, lemon

juice, horseradish, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, and hot pepper sauce in a large pitcher, stirring well. Add the vodka and stir again. Pour into glasses filled with ice. Sprinkle

each drink with black pepper to taste, then garnish with 1 lime wedge and 2 olives on a toothpick, along with one celery rib. Serves 6


Mexican Coffee BUY THE SMALLEST BOTTLES OF SEVERAL BRANDS of coffee liqueur to find the one you like best; many prefer Kahlúa, which is made with Mexican coffee beans. You can also make your own, using the recipe below.

»»Pour the coffee liqueur into a

Mexican Coffee 1½ ounces Mexican coffee liqueur 1 cup hot, brewed coffee

Serves 1

serving mug. Fill with hot, brewed coffee and sugar to taste. Garnish with whipped cream, if desired.

Sugar Whipped cream for garnish (optional)

Coffee Liqueur IT TAKES A WHILE FOR THE FLAVORS TO DEVELOP, but it’s worth the wait. This liqueur makes an ideal do-ahead holiday gift. Decorative, food-safe bottles can be purchased at gourmet shops or the housewares section of department and specialty stores. You’ll need bottles with lids such as screw-on caps or tightfitting corks to help prevent evaporation.

Coffee Liqueur

»»Clean and sterilize two 26-ounce

1 pint vodka

glass bottles. Set aside.

»»In a large, heatproof bowl, mix

the espresso powder and sugar. Stir in the boiling water until the sugar is dissolved. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add the vodka.

»»Split the vanilla bean in half and add

one half to each of the prepared bottles. Divide the coffee liqueur evenly between the 2 bottles. Close the bottles tightly. Keep in a cool, dark place for at least a month before serving.

2 ounces espresso powder 3½ cups sugar 2 cups boiling water 1 whole vanilla bean

Makes about 6 1⁄2 cups

DRINKS • 163


RECIPE SOURCES From Seductive Salsa by Gwyneth Doland (2006) »»Black Bean Salsa »»Fresh Corn Salsa »»Salsa de Molcajete From The Healthy Southwest Table by Janet Taylor (2007) »»Tangy Tuna Cabbage Salad From Tantalizing Tamales by Gwyneth Doland (2007) »»Basic Masa »»Green Chile Chicken Tamales »»Green Corn Tamales with Green Chile »»Pork and Red Chile Tamales From Coffee Creations by Gwin Grogan Grimes (2008) »»Cocoa-Coffee Spice Rub »»Coffee Barbecue Sauce »»Coffee Fajita Marinade »»Coffee Liqueur »»Espresso-Chile Steak Rub »»Mexican Coffee

168 • SOURCES

From Viva Chocolate! by Marilyn Noble (2008) »»Adobe Mud Pie »»Arroz con Leche y Chocolate (Chocolate Rice Pudding) »»Chocolate Pumpkin Empanadas »»Helado Azteca (Chocolate–Chile Ice Cream) »»Mocha Buzz »»Pecan Chile Chicken »»Traditional Mexican Hot Chocolate From Southwest Comfort Food by Marilyn Noble (2011) »»Albóndigas »»Black Bean Soup »»Chicken Enchiladas with Red Chile Sauce »»Cowboy Pinto Beans »»Grilled Orange Turkey »»Lamb Stew »»Orange Flan »»Red Chile Pork Posole »»Refritos (Refried Beans) »»Sopa de Frijoles »»Southwest Corn Bread

From The Green Southwest Cookbook by Janet Taylor (2012) »»Agua Fresca de Melón o Sandía »»Agua Fresca de Tamarindo


INDEX achiote, 5 Adobe Mud Pie, 148 adobo sauce, 33 in Spicy Chipotle Burger, 86 Agua Fresca de Melón o Sandía, 124 Agua Fresca de Tamarindo, 124 Albóndigas, 71 Anaheim chiles, 2 ancho chiles, 2 anise, 5 apple empanadas, caramel, 141 Arroz con Leche y Chocolate, 147 asadero cheese, 4 asparagus, garlic roasted, 132 avocado Carne Asada Sandwiches, 43 Ceviche, 130 Chile and Cheese Avocado Soup, 38 guacamole, 58 Quick and Easy Chicken Avocado Fajitas, 22 bacon, 21, 115 Baked Tortilla Chips, 10 barbecue sauces, 73, 77, 92 Basic Masa and Tamales, 102–103 beans about, 61 Black Bean Salsa, 56 Black Bean Soup, 65 Borracho (Drunk) Beans, 63 buying, 62 Carne Asada Tacos with Pico de Gallo, 16 cooking, 62 Cowboy Pinto Beans, 63 Green Chile Eggs Benny, 36 Nachos, 11 Navajo Tacos with Fry Bread, 68 Refritos (Refried Beans), 64 Sopa de Frijoles, 66 Spanish Black Beans, 64 Squash and Black Bean Soup, 118 Steak Burritos with Nopalitos, 26 White Bean Chicken Chili, 67 beef. See also chorizo Albóndigas, 71 Carne Asada Sandwiches, 43 Carne Asada Tacos with Pico de Gallo, 16 Carne Seca Chimichangas, 25 Cazuela, 40 Flank Steak with Creamy Rajas, 82 Green Chile Cheeseburger, 86 Grilled Flank or Skirt Steak with Mole Verde, 81

grilling steaks, 75 Menudo, 114 Spicy Chipotle Burger, 86 Steak Burritos with Nopalitos, 26 Taquitos with Chicken or Beef, 91 Traditional Tacos, 12 beer about, 157 in Borracho (Drunk) Beans, 63 Cerveza con Limonada, 158 in Chile-Braised Lamb Shanks with Cilantro Gremolata, 80 Michelada, 158 beverages. See drinks Biscochitos, 138 Bison Burgers with Pepita Pesto, 87 Black Bean Salsa, 56 Black Bean Soup, 65 Blue Corn Blueberry Pancakes, 120 Borracho (Drunk) Beans, 63 breakfast Blue Corn Blueberry Pancakes, 120 Chorizo and Egg Breakfast Scramble, 84 Green Chile Eggs Benny, 36 Huevos Rancheros, 28 Migas, 29 burgers. See sandwiches burritos, 26, 84 butter, compound, 104 cabbage salad, tuna, 96 cakes, 152–154 Calabacitas, 110 canela, 5 Cantaloupe or Watermelon Drink, 124 capsaicin, 2 Caramel Apple Empanadas, 141 Carne Asada Sandwiches, 43 Carne Asada Tacos with Pico de Gallo, 16 Carne Seca Chimichangas, 25 Cazuela, 40 Cerveza con Limonada, 158 Ceviche, 130 cheddar cheese, 4 cheese Calabacitas, 110 Carne Seca Chimichangas, 25 Chicken Enchiladas with Red Chile Sauce, 18 Chicken Tostadas, 94 Chilaquiles, 29 Chile and Cheese Avocado Soup, 38 Chiles Rellenos, 41

Garlic Cheese-Stuffed Jalapeño Peppers, 34 Garlic Chile con Queso, 51 Green Chile Cheeseburger, 86 Huevos Rancheros, 28 Nachos, 11 quesadillas, 20–21 Refritos (Refried Beans), 64 Southwest Corn Bread, 119 Traditional Tacos, 12 varieties of, 4 Cheese Quesadillas, 20 chicken Chicken Enchiladas with Red Chile Sauce, 18 Chicken Tostadas, 94 Chicken Wings in Mole, 90 Chicken with Tequila Lime Marinade, 94 Green Chile Chicken Tamales, 106 Grilled Chicken with Garlic-Chipotle Barbecue Sauce, 92 Lemon Chicken Topopo, 134–135 Pecan Chile Chicken, 91 Quick and Easy Chicken Avocado Fajitas, 22 Roasted Chicken with Cilantro-Lime Rub, 135 Taquitos with Chicken or Beef, 91 Tortilla Soup, 19 White Bean Chicken Chili, 67 Chicken Enchiladas with Red Chile Sauce, 18 Chicken Tostadas, 94 Chicken Wings in Mole, 90 Chicken with Tequila Lime Marinade, 94 Chilaquiles, 29 Chile and Cheese Avocado Soup, 38 Chile Corn Chowder, 115 chile de árbol, 2. See also chiles chile negro, 2. See also chiles chile powder, buying, 3 Chile-Braised Lamb Shanks with Cilantro Gremolata, 80 chiles. See also salsas and sauces about, 2, 31 adjusting the heat of, 2 Carne Asada Sandwiches, 43 Cazuela, 40 Chile and Cheese Avocado Soup, 38 Chile Corn Chowder, 115 Chile-Braised Lamb Shanks with Cilantro Gremolata, 80 Chiles Rellenos, 41 Chile-Spiced Grilled Fruit, 128 Chipotle Butter, 104 Chipotle Cream, 55

INDEX • 169


$16.95 Cooking/Regional Cooking

TASTE THE SOUTHWEST!

Everything you need to know in one place — it’s the whole enchilada! The food editors at Rio Nuevo Publishers handpicked more than 125 recipes that showcase the most delicious dishes in Southwestern cuisine. From traditional standbys to modern classics, this book is for anyone who loves the flavors, aromas, and zesty foods of the region. Arranged by ingredients, this user-friendly cookbook will be your guide to exploring the culinary delights that have been perfected over thousands of years. Savor a refreshing gazpacho. Blast your taste buds with spicy chiles. Learn how to make the perfect tamale. Indulge in rich dulce de leche. Spice up your life with The Essential Southwest Cookbook. The only hard part will be deciding what to make first! Printed in Korea

ISBN: 978-1-933855-90-5 51695

Tucson, Arizona rionuevo.com

9 781933 855905

The Essential Southwest Cookbook (book excerpt)  

Taste the Southwest! Here is everything you need to know in 125 recipes. From traditional standbys to modern classics, this book is for any...

The Essential Southwest Cookbook (book excerpt)  

Taste the Southwest! Here is everything you need to know in 125 recipes. From traditional standbys to modern classics, this book is for any...