TERRA
TRAVELERS
Extraordinary Findings in the World of Travel
Vol. 8 | Summer 2021
Topping off Your Life List
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Publisher’s Letter
Topping off my “Life list” “Every man dies — Not every man really lives.” – William Ross Wallace
Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman a few years ago gave new currency to the term “bucket list”, that collection of destinations and goals you want to experience prior to “kicking the bucket”. I personally have always preferred the term “lifelist” – the places I want to go and the things I want to do in this lifetime. I am not even halfway through my own list, and the past year has not benefited my progress.
most strongly impressed on me from my Covid-19 confinement is to never, ever, again take simple experiences for granted. I want to eat new food with new friends, enjoy their company, taking more time to hold onto the memories I am making.
I also want to seek out novelty. I have been to London and Reykjavik many times in my work career. It’s time to get out of what seems easy and familiar and onto new experiences. That is how a Our recent travel shutdown has hike on the Camino de Santiago altered my understanding of is inching its way up the list. the importance of travel. I only yesterday took my first airline I want to choose my traveling trip in 18 months, a record companions more carefully than hiatus in my adult life. TSA lines, in the past. The drama of drama security, moving between Atlanta holds far less interest for me now. terminals by train - everything old I feel one of those companions was new again, strangely familiar is likely to be a new grandson. but somehow different, displaced Passing on a love for travel to my like a dreamtime episode. family seems more important to me now. But most importantly, it forced me to think through what I really I understand some will argue want out of my travels, and what travel wastes resources like I want to seek out in my next few. vast amounts of fuel, is a privilege of the wealthy and Firstly, I want to freshen up the exploits indigenous people and list, to ensure a bit of clarity in my ecosystems. At times, travel and choices. I want to be certain my tourism does all of these things choices are really reflective of my and perhaps even worse than we personal wishes and not the result realize. But travel also expands of the desire to just “check off” a our understanding of other destination from the list. The time people and cultures, reminding distortion of the past year has set us of how alike we are. Seldom off a persistent awareness of its do we travel that we return scarcity. Time well-spent seems unchanged. more important. I want to keep changing. I want to slow down and savor each travel opportunity, to roll it Antarctica anyone? around and fully appreciate the experience. The one lesson I feel Terra Travelers || 2
TERRA TRAVELERS EXTRAORDINARY FINDINGS IN TRAVEL
PUBLISHER Richard B. Earls
EDITOR Travel Hippy
AUTHORS
Travel Hippy Terra Travelers Staff
EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DESIGN Erica Sager
MARKETING EXECUTIVES Randi White
CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Christopher Burton
CUSTOMER SERVICE Erin von Scherrer
Terra Travelers seeks to inspire a community of likeminded individuals that respect the road, respect the people we visit, and those with whom we travel.
60 Second geography: iceland Iceland is a wondrous and striking landscape with distinction of being the most lightly populated country in Europe. Most of the population lives in Reykjavik, the capital and largest city of Iceland. Even with all the natural sites to see inland, such as active volcanoes and serene mountains, the coasts are a sight that will inspire a return to the calm of Iceland’s culture and landscapes. GEOGRAPHY Near the Arctic Circle, Iceland is approximately the size of Kentucky. The coastline is almost 4,970 km of cliffs, glaciers, and beaches. But where the traveler will usually start most journey is in Reykjavik, on the southwest corner of the country. Reykjavik may not be the biggest or most well-known city in Europe, but the culture is first-class. Art galleries, cafes, bars, and a great selection of restaurants enhance the atmosphere of a low-key and thriving city. The architecture and design are a unique expression of a people removed from the rest of the world, left to create their own style and sense of aesthetic.
of its Viking heritage is unavoidable and, unlike many of Europe’s larger cities, Reykjavik exudes a sense of place that leaves no doubt about its Scandinavian identity. The people who live here are as much a part of the land as the land is of them, there’s no separating the two. CULTURE Few cultures on the planet today are as homogenous as the native Icelanders. There has been very little immigration for more than 1,000 years when the first Vikings arrived, and nearly 80% of the population can trace their family histories back to the original settlers. No easy task considering there are no family names. If Robert’s father had the first name of “Halldor” then Robert’s last name will be “Haldorson” and his sister “Haldordottir.”
any other. Iceland is a frontier of nature and culture, a place where the land is consistently being born again. Here the European and North American continental shelves site within a few feet of each other, the mantel sliding over the molten magma that gives this volcanic island much of its character. The people are communityoriented, the culture a pleasant experience, and the coasts a must-see for the traveler interested in enjoying more unique parts of our world.
SIGHTSEEING
Two of the more amazing sights in Iceland are the watching of majestic whales as they travel in pods and the greatest show on Earth, the Northern Lights. Skalfandi Bay, located at the town of Husavik, is known as the “WhaleTwenty-four hours of daylight are a pleasant watching capital of Iceland”. Here the traveler resource in a land so oriented to being will get to witness 15 species of whale, outdoors. The summers in Iceland are short, dolphins, and 30 types of bird. The gentle and the inhabitants make good use of every giants of the sea are a graceful and amazing moment. Reykjavik has the unassuming look sight to behold, but combined with a view of of a small town somewhere in Colorado more the Northern Lights in the winter months— than it does a national capital. Yet, the essence Husavik provides an entire experience unlike
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Savannah 18
Los Cabos 6
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Lake tahoe 10
Santa Monica 14
florence 20
CONTE
celtic heritage 24
San Francisco 30
Puck fair 34
ENTS
hawaii 36 costa rica 40 5 || Terra Travelers
LOS
CABOS
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A Beach Getaway to Los Cabos, Mexico One of Mexico’s most popular destinations, Los Cabos boasts beautiful resorts, spectacular beaches, and vibrant culture. There are two distinct regions in Los Cabos – Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo. Each has unique characteristics and appeals to slightly different crowds. Both communities are fantastic places to and enjoy a tranquil, Mexican environment. There is something for everyone here, whether you are a water sports and nature lover or someone who enjoys spending time at a resort.
Cabo San Lucas vs. San José del Cabo Its village has art galleries, boutique Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo are the two regions forming Los Cabos. They are about 20 miles apart on the Transpeninsular Highway. In between are many oceanside hotels and resorts. Cabo San Lucas is vibrant, lively, and has many of the major tourist attractions. There are many all inclusive resorts within walking distance of bars and trendy restaurants, and crystal-clear waters . You can also access the famous Cabo San Lucas arch by boat or kayak from this area. Its world - class amenities attract A-list celebrities, couples, spring breakers, and other travelers. San José del Cabo, by contrast, is more tranquil and has a prominent art and culture scene.
shops, a central plaza, and delicious food. There are also numerous resorts within a stone’s throw of its downtown area. No matter which part of Los Cabos you stay in, you are sure to experience excellent adventures in the “tourist corridor” between the two towns.
How to get to Los Cabos Los Cabos is approximately a two - hour flight from LAX, and indeed the best way to get to Los Cabos is by plane to Los Cabos International Airport (SJD) and then driving into town. Renting a car from the airport is uncomplicated, and it will only take you 20 - 40 minutes to reach your hotel, depending on where you are staying. Another transportation option you
could look into is airport transfers provided by hotels. Many resorts offer shuttle services to and from SJD. Your travel professional will likely contact your hotel ahead of time and arrange transportation services. Another option is taking a taxi, which can be more costly compared to other options. Uber and other ride share services are not allowed in Los Cabos.
What to do in Los Cabos - Cabo San Lucas -
Cabo San Lucas has endless entertaining activities. Most, but not all, revolve around the water. Sunbathing and spending time at the beach are two of the most popular
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activities in Cabo San Lucas. Two of the most well attended beaches are Playa Médano and Playa del Amor. Snorkeling enthusiasts love Chileno Beach because of the mild conditions. If you want to go swimming, make sure you double-check if it is safe to do so. Many beaches in Cabo San Lucas have strong riptides, undertows, and waves that may cause dangerous conditions at times. One of the most iconic sites in Cabo San Lucas is El Arco. This natural arch is very photogenic and easy to see by boat or water taxi. Another popular activity for visitors is golfing. There are some high-quality courses at Palmilla Golf Club and Club Campestre San Jose. Not only are they phenomenal, but the scenery surrounding them is breathtaking. While in Cabo, there are plenty of places to dine for every budget. Cabo San Lucas is a very international town, and you will find many different cuisines well represented. Some local favorites include Panache Restaurant, Café de Ciudad, Carbon Grill, and Jack’s Steakhouse.
- San José del Cabo San José del Cabo is slightly different from its sister city Cabo San Lucas, but no less attractive. In San José, there are countless things to do. Similar to Cabo San Lucas, many of these revolve around the water. However, there are more cultural activities in town in which to partake, including art galleries and superb shopping opportunities. Terra Travelers || 8
One of the best surfing spots and beaches is Costa Azul. It is much less crowded than other local beaches, and a great place to surf or relax on the sand. However, because of the strong waves, it is not recommendable to swim at Costa Azul San José’s town is worth a visit because of its charming streets and local shops. There are frequent live performances from the main stage of Plaza Mijares and art walks on Thursdays. In La Lupita, the historic district, you’ll find mouthwatering tacos and no shortage of drinking establishments. The farm-to-table movement is strong here, so it is easy to find fresh food everywhere. About 90 minutes outside of the city is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Los Cabos. East Cape is a picturesque spot with excellent snorkeling and diving spots. There are ample opportunities to see humpback whales, manta rays, whale sharks, and sea lions.
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L A K E
A Week at Lake T
Lake Tahoe is a destination perfect for a getaway, provided you appreciate skiing or
gambling, fishing, boating, or dozens of other outdoor activities. Straddling the bord
da, Lake Tahoe often exceeds the expectations of first-time visitors. Its natural beau
Jeffrey pine trees, and mountains are stunning during any season. But there is more
casinos and city life. It is by no means a bustling metropolis, but part of it is in Neva
casinos and gambling opportunities, so there is a subtle hint of this lifestyle infused
nation. Places like Harrah’s and the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino have a home here.
machines, table games, nightclubs, entertainment, and fine dining to accommodat
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T A H O
Tahoe
r hiking or nature, golf, shopping,
der between California and Neva-
uty, crystal clear waters, towering
e. Lake Tahoe surprises with its
ada. The state is well-known for its
d into the otherwise tranquil desti-
. These establishments have slot
te guests.
O E
How to get to Lake Tahoe
The best way to get to Lake Tahoe from out of state is by flying into Reno-Tahoe International Airport (45 minutes away from North Lake Tahoe), Sacramento International Airport (two hours away), or San Francisco International Airport (3.5 hours away). From those locations, you can rent a car or take the Amtrak California Zephyr line to Truckee. There are also shuttles from Reno-Tahoe International Airport to North Lake Tahoe and Truckee.
The Lay of the Land
Lake Tahoe is massive, with a surface spanning almost 200 square miles. The south side of the lake is the most developed, with casinos and large resorts. If you’re looking for golf courses, spas, and entertainment, South Lake Tahoe is an ideal place to stay. Not too far away is Stateline, which has a similar vibe. This area has hotels with ski resorts, making it a great destination to visit year-round. During the warmer months, however, it is the watersports that reign supreme. Paddleboarding, boating, kayaking, and fishing are popular enough to make you appreciate the expanse of Lake Tahoe. The lake’s northeastern shore is a more tranquil destination. Tahoe City has a fascinating history and culture that blends with the lake’s natural beauty. If you are interested in going camping, there are excellent campsites here, as well as many family-owned businesses, boutiques, museums, and swimming spots. Other outstanding locations to stay in Lake Tahoe include Incline Village, Kings Beach, Tahoe Vista, and Homewood. There are balloon rides and helicopter adventures to get an eagle-eye view of Lake Tahoe, as well as tours and cruises on the lake for
those wanting to keep their feet closer to the ground. Guided hiking, tours, and sightseeing options are plenty. One of the most popular and exciting activities in Lake Tahoe is Emerald Bay State Park. This park lies on the lake’s southwestern shore. Here, visitors find some of the lake’s best panoramic views, especially at sunset. There are also vibrant granite cliffs, lush greenery, and the lake’s only island (Fannette Island). Another unique feature of this park is Vikingsholm, an impressive 1920’s Scandinavian mansion.
Ski Country
During the winter, Lake Tahoe transforms into ski country. One of the best places to ski in Lake Tahoe is Squaw Valley. This fine resort hosted the 1960 Winter Olympics and ranges across six peaks on the lake’s western shore northwest of Tahoe City. There are plenty of slopes to choose from at this nearly 4,000acre resort. While it is fit for an Olympian, there are ample beginner and intermediate slopes. If you want to avoid the crowds, you may want to consider Alpine Meadows as an alternative. Though lesser-known, the 2,400-acre facility sports more than 100 runs.
History of Lake Tahoe
There is a bit of dark history to the area as the home of the Donner Memorial State Park. The pioneer families crossing the Sierra Nevadas during the winter of 1846 originally numbered almost 90 people, but the harsh winter conditions trapped them without adequate shelter or provisions. Many resorted to cannibalism to survive. A 22 foot tall stone marker at the Emigrant Trail Museum stands testament to the deeps snowfalls that winter. 11 || Terra Travelers
WHAT TO DO AT LAKE TAHOE A popular activity in Lake Tahoe is the Heavenly Gondola. This two-mile gondola ride carries riders to a 9,200-foot-high observation deck. There are outstanding views from the observation deck and countless recreational activities. At the top, there is the Epic Discovery adventure area with zip lines, climbing walls, ropes courses, a roller coaster, and guided hiking during the summer. While at Lake Tahoe, you’re going to want to enjoy the water. Kings
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Beach State Recreation Area is a perfect place to spend time at the lake. During the summer, the water is surprisingly warm, making it ideal for swimming and watersports. There is an abundance of picnic and BBQ facilities where guests can gather and spend time together. Another beach spot you’re going to want to check out is Sand Harbor State Park. This beach area is sandy, with hidden coves and pine forests. The water here
is entirely translucent, making it ideal for scuba diving and swimming. There are also several hiking trails to be enjoyed. The juxtaposition of natural beauty and modern amenities makes Lake Tahoe an intriguing place to visit. Whether you are bringing a family, going on a group excursion, or spending a romantic weekend with a partner, you’ll find something to do here and more activities than you can possibly fit with a week’s stay.
wish you were here!
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S A N T MONIC A
Exploring Santa Monica
L
ocated directly on the Pacific Ocean, and surrounded by mountains at the terminus of Route 66, Santa Monica enjoys an approximately 280 days of sunshine each year. With average temperatures in the mid to upper seventies year-round, this beachside city’s weather is one of its most attractive assets and being outside is a part of the city’s fabled lifestyle. But there is so much more to discover in Santa Monica than great weather, and visitors to the Los Angeles area miss out if they don’t spend a bit of time in this eclectic community. If you are looking for a unique domestic destination to visit with iconic world-class dining, entertainment, and famous points of interest, Santa Monica is worth your consideration. Many of the attractions that make the beach-front city special have found residence in our collective consciousness, and you may find yourself surprised at your osmotic familiarity with some of the key points of interest in Santa Monica.
Palisades Park
too close to the edge. The park is a favorThe panorama from the bluffs overlooking ite spot to engage in people-watching, with a continual presence of joggers and strollers the Pacific from Palisades Park is unforgettaking advantage of the air and the scenery. table. The 26 acres that make up the park are encompassed in a thin 1.6-mile section Santa Monica Famers’ Market of Ocean Avenue from which you can see One of the largest and highest-rated Farmnot only the ocean but the mountains sur- er’ Markets in the entire country, the Santa rounding the city as well. The park’s bound- Monica Famers’ Market consists of severaries stretch from the Santa Monica Pier at its al different venues that pop up on various southern tip and run north to Adelaide Drive. days of the week. The produce is primarily Palisades Park includes terrific public art and locally grown and consists of fresh fruit, vega rose garden, picnic areas, and more than etables, nuts, dairy, a variety of meats and 30 species of plants and trees. Because some fish, as well as flowers and processed farm portions of the park’s precipice are composed products like jams, juices, pickles, and salsa. of loose soil, visitors do well to avoid getting
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Santa Monica Pier and Pacific Park
Muscle Beach
Running the length of Santa Monica itself, Santa Monica State Beach is, as you might expect, one of the most popular local divertissements and is well attended by the local population. The world-renowned Santa Monica Pier is the beach’s man-made focal point and is home to a plethora of attractions and recognizable landmarks like the Santa Monica Ferris Wheel, which happens to be the only solar-powered Ferris Wheel in the world. The Pier has been the setting for scenes in many movies and television shows, from an early Charlie Chaplin film in 1914, Steven Spielberg’s movie 1941 with John Belushi and Dan Aykroyd, as well as Forrest Gump and Iron Man, among many others. The Heal the Bay Aquarium is underneath the Pier, as well as a vast array of arcade games, carnival rides, and food booths at the Pier’s Pacific Park.
Not to be mistaken for its showier Venice kin, this exercise jungle gym for adults is the Original Muscle Beach stretching back to the 1930s. A Works Progress Administration (WPA) project installed exercise equipment in a city park, and it quickly caught on with those willing to sport their physical, gymnastic, and acrobatic prowess on the swings, parallel bars, and other fitness apparatus available to the public.
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Santa Monica Place and Third Street Promenade
Shopping in Santa Monica is way too easily accom-
plished, and the variety is staggering, from unique boutiques to familiar chain stores. The two most prominent shopping areas are Santa Monica Place and Third Street Promenade. Santa Monica Place has many high-end retailers, as well as dozens of dining and wine shops. Third Street Promenade is the most popular shopping venue with easy access to restaurants and the Wednesday Farmers’ Market.
Street performers provide plenty of impromptu entertainment and a pedestrian-friendly experience at this open-air shopping setting. There are many excellent hotels in which to lay your head during your visit to Santa Monica and be sure to take advantage of other outdoor opportunities like bike rides, Tongva Park, and the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.
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Savannah
A historic city just waiting to be explored.
S
avannah, Georgia, is best known for its historic squares surrounded by moss-covered oaks and horse-drawn carriages. If you are looking for a laid-back atmosphere, a peek into the south’s history, and excellent cuisine, consider Savannah as your next destination. I visited recently with the city in the midst of the then-current Covid-19 scenario. Travelers and locals alike filled the streets. Everyone was well-behaved and masked, the many open-air restaurants were busy, and indoor dining was thoughtfully socially distanced. My second road trip since Covid first arrived, I felt as safe traveling by car and visiting Savannah as I do going to the grocery store or pharmacy at home. My hotel, the River Street Inn, had excellent safety protocols in place for check-in. Frankly, I was in need of a trip out of Tallahassee.
The Coastal City
This coastal Georgia city has much more to offer than the cobblestone streets lined with canopy trees. The setting for the novel and movie “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil,” Savannah’s glass brims with the variety of rich southern culture. Let’s explore a few of the best things to do and see in Savannah. There are not many U.S. cities better to stroll through time than Savannah. Start your historical tour by exploring two forts on the outskirts of the city. Famous Old Fort Jackson is an open-air landmark site situated on Savannah’s riverfront. Now a National Historic Landmark, Fort Jackson is one of the oldest fortresses on the East Coast. Watch cannon firings only minutes from Savanah historic downtown and enjoy stunning views of Savannah’s riverfront. Explore Fort Pulaski, a Confederate base during the Civil War. One of Savannah’s most photographed sites is the Wormslow State historic site which features the ruins of a colonial estate and the oldest standing Terra Travelers || 18
structure in the city with a beautiful avenue lined with the Spanish moss oak trees. Don’t miss to visit the ruins and the museum on-site that features colonial artifacts and take photos of the beautiful lane framed with live oak trees. Explore the unique house museum and the birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low, founder of Girl Scouts of the USA. Learn about Low’s exciting life and the movement she created in 1912.
What to See
My favorite spot in all of Savannah is Bonaventure Cemetery. If you have any inclination for photography, bring your camera to this 160 acre history lesson. Centuries of family graves and mausoleums, great ghost stories, and amazingly wonderful outdoor sculpture are here on display. It is peaceful, serene and you are almost certain to get lost among the graves of the rich, the famous and the poor, so keep track of where your car is parked! John Muir stayed in Bonaventure
Cemetery for six days and nights on his Thousand Mile Walk, sleeping on graves, the inspiration for his chapter “Camping in the Tombs.” When you need a break from sightseeing, stroll to Savannah’s stunning Forsyth Park, a 30-acre green oasis named after Georgia’s 33rd governor. The city’s famous park located in the Historic District is an ideal place to lounge on the grass, connect with nature, meditate, explore the walking trails, or have a picnic. Relax with a cup of freshly brewed coffee and pastry at the park’s popular coffee spot, or take your little ones to one of the park’s two playgrounds (one is for younger kids and the other one for the older ones). Don’t miss the chance to
take stunning photos by the park’s famous water fountain installed in 1858 at the park’s northern edge and take a walk through the fantastic Fragrant Garden. The Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist is one of the landmarks you will not want to miss. This gorgeous church with 81 stained glass windows is a perfect place if you are looking to explore the history, relax, or simply indulge in tranquility. The church was opened in 1876 but almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1898. It was rebuilt and reopened in 1900 and has been open to the community of Savannah and visitors ever since. The cathedral is open for self-guided tours Monday through Friday. However, no tours are allowed during Masses, other
religious events, funerals, and weddings. which opened in 1979 with one building and only 71 students. Today, the college Art Lovers Paradise Savannah is famous as a paradise for art offers programs in photography, film and aficionados. From the area’s colonial his- television, graphic design, animation, and tory to contemporary art and numerous fashion and attracts more than 14,000 stuyearly events, Savannah is an important dents from the United States and abroad. destination for those who appreciate art, So if the first thing that popped and the southern culture is a bonus. Sa- into your mind when you first read the vannah’s oldest public art museum, the fa- word “Savannah” was cobblestone streets mous Telfair Museum of Art first opened and Spanish moss-covered oaks swayin 1886. The museum features two Na- ing in the wind, you were not mistaken. tional Historic Landmark buildings, the However, this stunning coastal town in Telfair Academy and the Owens-Thomas Georgia has so much more to offer and House. You can also visit the unique ex- the history, tastes, and sights of Savanhibitions and collections of the contem- nah will make you long to come back porary Jepson Center. The city owes the again - right after you visit Charlesexpansion of its arts scene to the Savan- ton, South Carolina just up the road. nah College of Art and Design or SCAD, 19 || Terra Travelers
FLORE
The Italian city of Florence will captivate you with its mag Over a million visitors travel to this resplendent destinat explore its streets. Around every corner is something to r naissance. There are world-class museums, UNESCO W Today, Florence is a captivating Italian destination that is what you need to know if you plan on vis
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ENCE
gnificent beauty, fascinating history, and matchless charm. tion each year to see its many unequalled landmarks and remind the visitor of the city’s role as the heart of the ReWorld Heritage Sites, and mouthwatering eateries to visit. s worth exploring at as leisurely a pace as possible. Here is siting this gracefully elegant destination.
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How to Get There
There are multiple ways to reach Florence. Those who want to fly directly to Florence have two major airport options near the city, Florence International Airport, and Pisa International Airport. Pisa has slightly more flight options than Florence. You can rent a car from these airports or take a bus to town. Another option would be to fly into Rome. From Rome, you can rent a car or take the train. The main train station in Florence, the Firenze Santa Maria Novella, is in the center of the historical district. Once you are in Florence, it is easy to walk around and reach the main attractions. Walking from one end of the historic center to the other only takes about 15 minutes and Florence is a city meant to be walked.
What to Eat Florence is just as famous for its food as it is for its sights. Tuscan food has a reputation worldwide for being high-quality and delicious. There are a few local favorites that you must sample when in Florence. One of these delicacies is Bistecca alla Fiorentina. These are massive t-bone steaks that weigh between 2-8 pounds. The steaks come rare and seasoned with a bit of salt, pepper, and lemon. It is very traditional and delicious! Pasta and Italy go hand and hand, and Florence has some outstanding dishes. One local classic that you should try is Parpadelle al Cinghiale. These wide noodles come paired Terra Travelers || 22
with a wild boar ragu. Another pasta dish that will rock your world is tagliatelle funghi porcini e tartufo. This dish is an excellent option for vegetarians, but anyone can enjoy it. Wash all of these tasty dishes down with gelato and some high-quality Tuscan wine.
What to See
There are innumerable things to see and do in Florence. Everyone visiting the city has their favorite museums, churches, piazzas and bridges, artisans workshops, boutique shops and local markets. As the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence is deservedly famous for its art and architecture. There are a few places that you should visit to appreciate Florentine and Italian masterpieces. The Uffizi Galleries is a place that is on almost everyone’s list because of its impressive collection of world-class paintings. You can see works from some of Italy’s most famous artists like Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo. To see some outdoor sculptures, visit the Piazza Della Signoria and Loggia de’ Lanzi. Here, there are some impressive statues, including the Fountain of Neptune and a replica of David. Not only is this area a great place to see art, but it is also a relaxing place to grab a bite to eat or a drink. Keep in mind that it is a little touristy, but the environment makes it worth it. It’s impossible to walk around Florence and not catch a glimpse of the Duomo at the Basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore.
Filippo Brunelleschi designed this impressive cupola, completed in 1436. If you can, it’s worth climbing to the top to see outstanding views of the city. However, I would also recommend visiting Giotto’s Bell Tower on the other side of the church. It has exceptional views of the Duomo, and the line is often shorter. The ornate marble facade of the Basilica incorporates carvings of ostrich feathers emblems of the Medici family. Not too far away is the Academia Gallery of Florence. The museum’s crowning jewel is the original marble statue of David, which is, as you might expect, exquisitely unforgetable. Another important landmark is the Ponte Vecchio or old bridge.
This highly photographed bridge has shops and houses on it. One of the best observation points to see Ponte Vecchio is from the Piazzale Michelangelo. It is a little bit of a trek to get there, but the view is worth the effort! On the way, you’ll walk through the narrow alleyways of the charming San Niccolò district. On the same side of the river is the Oltrarno district. It is more tranquil than the touristy side of Florence and has some outstanding attractions. A scenic place to walk around is Boboli Gardens, a historical park designed for Florence’s powerful Medici family. Other must-see spots in this neighborhood include Santo Spirito Square and Pitti Palace.
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CE H
The Celtic World
What is a Celt? The Celts ar the ancient races of the wo ing their origins to before history, somewhere in East rope. By 500 BC the Celt stretched from Ireland and S in the West to Russia in the down to the Mediterranean fourth century BC, they we oned to be one of the four g barian races by the Ancient The Celts were never really u a people, but they shared a c culture. To this day, a Welsh can make themselves under a Breton, or recognize links or Irish Gaelic. The inexorabl of the Roman Empire from t and the strength of the G tribes to the north forced t westward, to the less hospita of France, Spain and the Brit Today, the Celtic strongho Scotland, Ireland, Wales, of Man and Cornwall in the Isles, and Brittany in France, can find evidence of the anc ture across Britain and parts ern Europe.
Exploring through T
A Celtic vacation isn’t like a an vacation, or a Caribbean – it is less focused than that. the Celts are spread across th Terra Travelers || 24
ELTIC HERITAGE
d
it’s hard to say “I went to the land of the Celts” – because there are so many. In the end, it comes down to a question of choice. Visiting Scotland, Ireland or Wales gives you a direct connection to Celtic history, people and culture. But it can be satisfying in a different way to visit the places where the “Celtic-ness” has been absorbed into something else. For instance, in Cornwall or Brittany, the Celtic culture is less obvious – but it is still there, none-the-less. Half the fun is looking for it. You might find an ancient Celtic cross in a remote Breton village. Maybe you’ll hear a fisherman speaking a language too guttural and musical to be French – he’s speaking Breton, which sounds a little like Welsh. It’s not that the Celts have left – they are, most definitely, still here. So make your choice. If you have the time for a voyage of discovery, you could head straight for one of the Celtic heartlands.
re one of orld, trace written tern Eutic world Scotland East and n. By the ere reckgreat bart Greeks. unified as common h speaker rstood to to Scots le spread the south Germanic the Celts able parts tish Isles. olds are the Isle Wales e British , but you The Welsh language is taught in cient culschools, and street signs are bi-linof Westgual, Welsh and English. Wales now has its own National Assembly, and while it remains part of the United Travel Kingdom, it has been given a deEuropegree of autonomy. Everywhere you vacation look, you see a nation rediscovering Because its own Celtic heritage. From a big, he world,
thriving metropolis like Cardiff, to the tiniest mountain village, you’ll see “Welshness” everywhere you look. West Wales is generally thought to have the most Celtic areas, and a trip to Pembrokeshire, the “Land’s End” of Wales, is rich with history. St David, the patron saint of Wales – Dewi Sant in Welsh – was a Celtic monk who became Archbishop of Wales during the sixth century AD. He was of royal blood and is said to be descended from King Arthur, the ultimate Celtic icon. He traveled widely through Wales and beyond to the other Celtic strongholds in Cornwall and Brittany. If you hear a Welsh person say “Gwynech y pethau bychain” (do the little things) it’s a well known saying of St. David, and was one of the last things he told his followers to do before his death. His influence lived on after his death, and the Cathedral of St. David’s, in the city of St David’s, is built on the site of the monastery where he died. St David’s is a great place to base yourself to discover some of Wales’ Celtic heritage. It’s also an exceptionally beautiful part of the world, and the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path is breathtaking.
successful in being dragged back from the brink of oblivion, but inroads are being made. Centuries of conflict with neighboring England have left a nation fiercely proud of its independence. A visit to a more remote area will give you a heady dose of Celtic culture that you will never forget. A trip to the Scottish isles, such as Mull or Skye, will introduce you to many Scottish traditions, including, of course, whiskey. Try to take part in a traditional “Ceilidh” (pronounced kaye-lee), a kind of social evening, musical event and dance all rolled into one, to experience authentic Celtic entertainment at its best. A good place to base yourself would be Oban, on the West Coast, known as the gateway to the Isles. From here, you can catch ferries or arrange trips to many of the islands, including Iona. If you’re in search of the Celts, this site has it all. St. Columba founded a monastery here in the sixth century, from which he set about converting Scotland and much of Northern Europe to Christianity. It is thought the Book of Kells, an ornate illuminated manuscript of the four gospels, was produced here. Iona Abbey feels like the ancient Celtic monks have just Scotland stepped out for a moment. Today, “Do you have the Gaelic?” you might Iona is the home of a modern Chrishear one Scot ask another. Their an- tian community that is a leading force cient Celtic language has been less in the Celtic Christianity revival. 25 || Terra Travelers
Ireland When it comes to emigrating, the Irish did it in style. It’s reckoned that 80 million people around the world consider themselves to be of Irish descent – that’s 14 times the current population of the Irish Republic. While the Irish government takes no responsibility for these people, it amended its own constitution, the Bunreacht na hÉireann in 1998 to read “the Irish nation cherishes its special affinity with people of Irish ancestry living abroad who share its cultural identity and heritage.” In many ways, Ireland’s tourist industry is built on its Celtic heritage. Irish tourism is making the most of international interest in Celtic history and heritage. Dozens of tours promise a taste of the myths and legends, the history, the landscape and even the cooking of this Celtic nation. Dublin is a big city, full of history – but you’ll get more of a feel for the Terra Travelers || 26
Celtic heritage if you head for less cosmopolitan places. Visit a destination like Kells – this is where the Book of Kells mentioned earlier was kept for generations – and you’ll be plugged straight into the mainstream of Celtic history. Take a tour and visit the beautiful Lough Derravaragh in County Westmeath, which plays a central part in the Celtic legend of the Children of Lir. Climb to the Lia Fail standing stone on the Hill of Tara in County Meath, and touch it. If the stone cries out, then legend says you are the true High King of Ireland. (Since this hasn’t happened recently, there appears to be no mechanism in place for you to claim your throne!). Wherever you end up in Ireland, you will not have to go far to find a piece of Celtic life. In search of King Arthur Perhaps the most common Celtic legend is that of King Arthur. His
first recorded appearance is in Welsh literature, and although the common picture of him is a medieval knight in shining amour, he was more likely to have been a warrior from 5th century Britain, from the chaotic times after the withdrawal of the Romans. Legend says Arthur was born at Tintagel in Cornwall. The dramatic setting of Tintagel castle is steeped in history, but to be able to fully explore the site you do need to be reasonably fit. There is a walk along a coastal path from St Materiana’s Church in the village which will take you to the inner walls of the Castle itself. The path is suitable for wheelchairs and walkers, but, there are some steep steps if you want to go on to the Castle gateway. At the time of Arthur, the castle would have been connected to the mainland, but by the 12th century the sea had washed the causeway away. The ruins that you can see today date
from the mid-12th century, but it’s of the footpaths slippery, so good most spectacular ancient monuments believed those were built on ruins footwear is a must. Locals will tell you in the world, Stonehenge. This huge tales of ghostly monks whose chants and mysterious circle of giant stones dating from a much earlier time. There are plenty of things to see in the area around Tintagel that, if not direct evidence of King Arthur himself, are at least strong pointers to the rich Celtic culture that existed in the region. Head out of Tintagel on the Boscastle road, and at Trevethy, join the public footpath behind the Rocky Valley Centre. Follow the path to St Nectan’s Glen, which is promoted as one of the ten most important spiritual sites in Britain. A spectacularly beautiful 10m-high waterfall plunges into a natural basin and then into a shallow pool at the head of the glen. According to legend this is where the Knights of the Round Table swore to find the Holy Grail. Whether it is or not, it is a fact that St. Nectan, a Celtic Christian saint, built a hermitage above the waterfall. You can only get to this tranquil spot by foot – and flooding a few years ago made some
can be heard, or of the legend that St Nectan’s bell will toll to warn of impending disaster. The site was a place of pilgrimage throughout the Middle Ages. Another site which, rightly or wrongly, is closely associated with the legend of King Arthur, is Glastonbury in Somerset. For many people, the town is better known for its annual rock concert, but it has an ancient history predating that by far. According to legend, this is the burial place of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere. There is even a tradition that Jesus visited here and that a church was built here by Joseph of Arimathea. Whatever the truth, this is an important site in European – and Celtic – Christian history, with St. Patrick, St. Bridget and St. David all based here at some time. A common place for those hunting for their Celtic roots to visit is one of the
in the middle of Salisbury Plain in England was actually erected hundreds of years before the first Celts arrived in the British Isles. Similarly spectacular megalithic monuments also predate the Celts – such as the strange rows of stones at Carnac in Brittany, or the gigantic burial chamber at Pentre Ifan in Wales – but many believe that the Celts used the monuments for their own purposes. Pentre Ifan – which features a gigantic, 40 tonne capstone balanced on three smaller stones – is said to have been a favourite place of the Druids. It’s not surprising. The magnificent views across Fishguard Bay, the sound of a skylark launching itself above the rolling fields, and the sheer enormity of the stone monument itself make for a unique place in the world. Personal Note – On the day the author of this article visited, a 27 || Terra Travelers
middle aged couple were standing beneath the capstone, praying. It didn’t seem out of place, and when they launched into a wavering rendition of the Welsh national anthem Hen Wlad fy Nhadau (Land of my Fathers) it felt perfectly natural. And very Celtic. So I joined in!
Celtic Roots and Modern Genealogy
By way of example, we are going to now consider Irish geneaolgies, but the same considerations apply for all Celtic origins and lines. Key to any comprehensive genealogical research is the formulation of goals and the development of a research outline. How deep into your family tree and how wide do you wish to go? What family resources do you have at your disposal, such as old birth and marriage records and family bibles? Have others in your family undertaken such research? Very valuable information can be gleaned from documents revealing birthdates, marriages and deaths. Social Security records, church records, deeds and census records are all important sources for research. Ideally, you want to determine where in Ireland your ancestors originated: the country, townland or parish address. If you are most fortunate, you will have access to your ancestors’ imTerra Travelers || 28
migration records and will know the port of arrival in your home country, along with any name changes, maiden names and ages. Many immigration records contain the point of departure – invaluable for tracing back to a county of origin. Anglo-Irish genealogical research is aided by the large number of individuals undertaking the challenge. Although many records have been lost through the centuries, the cumulative knowledge base is vast, and the Internet has assisted with pulling much of it together for both the amateur and professional researcher. Disasters like the destruction of the Record Tower in Dublin Castle in the 18th century or the 1922 fire in the Ireland Public Records Office have been major setbacks, but local parish and townland records can fill many of the gaps. Civil records in Ireland are best traced through the General Register Office of Northern Ireland in Belfast or the General Register Office in Dublin. Research in these facilities is somewhat limited and it is often necessary to pre-book your research time in advance. Census records are spotty due to the aforementioned fire in the Public Records Office, but for many years, records are still available. Church records remain one of the best resources, and
if you can determine whether your ancestors were Protestant or Catholic, it may be easier to trace through the births, deaths and marriages of ancestors using the local parish records. Each locality has their own formalities and rules about access to records, so make your inquiries and appointments for research early to avoid disappointments upon arrival. Where to begin? With yourself, of course! Work backwards as far as possible by interviewing your relatives. Try to find any old family documents, books, bibles, and photo albums, all of which might have important clues. Your family surname is a beginning, but the process of immigration often anglicized many names, obscuring their true origin. Start with a single surname and trace it out, recording your findings on a family tree, or pedigree, chart. Most cover a number of generations and have a space to record the birth, marriage and death of individuals. Excellent, and free, samples of charts can be found on the Internet. Speaking of the Internet, it is one of the ultimate genealogical tools. Public records, news articles and other people’s research worldwide can be culled for your own use. There are many, many sites devoted to genealogy, family histories and the official
records of localities. TIARA (The Irish Ancestral Research Association) www.tiara.ie is an organization that promotes the exchange of ideas among people and organizations interested in Irish genealogical and historical research and education and provides a wealth of information on Irish genealogy. No discussion of genealogy would be complete without a mention of the Family History Library in Salt Lake City, a massive undertaking of the Church of Later Day Saints to record genealogies worldwide, containing literally millions of records from over 110 countries. Anyone is free to visit or to utilize their databases without regard for religious affiliation. There are local branch offices of the Family History Centers in over 60 countries.
There and Back Again Once you have determined the likely point of origin of your family tree, it is time to begin considering your trip to Wales, Scotland, England or Ireland. Ask your travel consultant about the best times to travel given your own personal preferences, schedules and budgetary constraints. While peak season travel in the summer months typically offers the best weather conditions, off-peak spring and fall “shoulder” season discounts are hard to ignore. Your travel consultant will work with any number of reputable tour operators that can provide either individual or group packages, often at special rates. There are advantages to both independent and group tours, but your personal preferences will dictate your choice of traveling companions, if any, your accommodations, itinerary, food, local transportation and a hundred other considerations that a good tour operator will coordinate on your behalf. It is a proud and wonderfully rich tradition from which you derive. The exploration of your family tree is as much an inward journey as an outward one. Here’s Godspeed to both. 29 || Terra Travelers
San Francisco roadtrip Terra Travelers || 30
visiting 415
There are many nicknames for the city of San Francisco, including “The City.” There is “415” - the area code, “San Fran” - (don’t use this one), “Fog City” - self-explanatory, “Golden Gate City” - for the bridge, and even “Baghdad by the Bay” - with reference to the cosmopolitan nature of the population, much like that of pre-war Baghdad. Lately, The City has suffered from a bad rap, the result of outrageously expensive real estate, a vast disparity of income, a large homeless population, and a snarled traffic problem. But The City remains high on my list of great places to visit. One of my favorite activities in the Bay Area, however, is getting out of The City proper and heading for some of the surrounding nature and vicinities. When Covid-19 shut down much of international travel, road trips suddenly became the new adventure. Having taken several road trips in the past couple of months, I can attest to a new appreciation for visiting a destination and using it as a base of operations. I recently flew into San Francisco on Delta, and checked into the Intercontinental Hotel, which became my out of town office for a few days of sight-seeing.
Fisherman’s Wharf I always spend some time in San Francisco visiting favorite neighborhoods, experiencing the micro-climates, and sampling some of the food for which it is so famous. I ate outdoors at every opportunity, but because the restaurants were at that time operating at only 50% capacity, social distancing while dining was easy. While my goal was a variety of road trips out of The City, I can’t go to San Francisco without a visit to Fisherman’s Wharf’s waterfront, usually one of the city’s most touristy areas, but the crowds are now appropriately diminished. I spent the afternoon after my arrival browsing through shops in the northern waterfront while enjoying the bay, Golden Gate, and Alcatraz views. To my delight, there were more sea lions basking in the sun than I had ever seen there before.
Muir Woods Zip-Car is my go-to solution for transportation when flying rather than driving to a destination, and the next day I drove the 20 miles north across the Golden Gate Bridge to visit Muir Woods. If you have a National Park Pass (you should, especially now, ask your travel agent) there is no entrance fee. The prime-
val forest of old-growth redwoods towers above Redwood Creek into the sun and fog. These are the most massive trees on earth, and the well-maintained paths in the small park that is Muir Woods makes a visit there easy to accomplish. You will, of course, want to have your camera with you, and if you can go during the week, you can avoid the crowds that flock there on weekends. On the day I visited, all traffic on the paths was “one-way” to avoid hikers coming at you from the opposite direction, which only slightly altered the experience. Because of Muir Woods location in the valley, there is no cell phone service and parking reservations must be made in advance. This was a change from my previous visit, and, again, kudos for the advance warning by my travel agent!
Lands End The next day, I ventured out to Lands End, a wild and windy area with stunning views, located within the Golden Gate National Recreational Area. The site offers a perfect getaway from the city’s hustle and bustle with some of the best sunset viewing spots in the city. I explored the park’s trails winding around the 31 || Terra Travelers
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rocky cliffs and enjoy watching the impressive Golden Gate Bridge changing colors as the sunset on the horizon. When hiking in Golden Gate National Recreation Area, visitors are well-reminded to keep their distance from the cliffs above the ocean and always stay on trails. If you are not familiar with Lands End, Vestiges of Lands End is a digital guidebook of the area’s landscapes, geology, historic places, and artifacts. The Lands End’s trails wind their way around the massive cliffs above the water, through cypress and eucalyptus trees, emerging with terrific scenery and one of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Of particular historical interest are the ruins of the amazing “Sutro Baths.” Designed by Adolph Sutro in 1894, the Sutro Baths were intended to be a recreational swimming facility for the citizenry of The City. The massive glass enclosure contained seven swimming pools along with slides, spring boards and diving platforms. The ocean supplied the water and could fill the 1.7 million gallons necessary in about an hour. The Baths could accommodate 10,000 people at a time. Never commercially successful, however, the Baths fell into ruin and were destroyed by fire in 1966 and have been part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area since 1973.
Being a walker, in any event, I opted for a two-hour guided tour with some of the San Francisco skyline’s most spectacular views with the Golden Gate Bridge and Mount Tamalpais as backdrop. The 760 acres that make up Angel Island are well supplied with numerous picnic tables sprinkled throughout the park and trails and the hiking with 360 degree views of San Francisco, the Golden Gate Bridge and the Bay are worth the trip.
Benicia On my last day I visited the village of Benicia once again. I am always surprised how even well-traveled friends who go to San Francisco often fail to discover Benicia. From The San Francisco Ferry Building near Fisherman’s Wharf, it is a pleasant ferry ride to this quaint village filled with art stores, excellent restaurants and bars. Benicia was, for a very short time, 13 months in fact beginning in 1853, the capital of California. The old state house is a treasure trove of antique furniture and historical artifacts. Jack London once lived here and a marker on First Street memorializes Jack London as “The author who immortalized this locality in John Barleycorn and Tales of the Fish Patrol”.
Angel Island
There is never enough time. On my many visits to the Having already been to Alcatraz, I decided to visit on Bay Area, I have been fortunate enough to tour areas my fourth day Angel Island, the second-largest island in from San Francisco to San Jose and everything in beSan Francisco Bay, only a short ferry ride from the city. tween. This trip, I had fully intended to find my way to The island was originally the home of a military instalwine country, but my short visit did not allow for a trip lation, but today you’ll find some great bars and cafes to Napa and Sonoma, only 40 miles north of Benicia. serving excellent food along with fantastic city views. Likewise, I had to decline a return to Half Moon Bay. I’m During non-Covid times, visitors can take a Segway saving those two for my next trip to The City. tour around the island but those are now suspended.
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Ireland’s PUCK FAIR
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No Kidding, the Goat is King For three days each year in August, more than 20,000 people converge on Killorglin in Kerry in Southwest Ireland for the coronation of a goat. But not just any goat. No sir. That is King Puck on the stage in the center of town overlooking the river Laune. It is best to be full of good spirit in the King’s presence, because everyone else is! A three-day event commences amidst traditional Irish music. Saturday is “Gathering Day” and the bars are filled with patrons all weekend. “Fair Day” follows and finally “Scattering Day”. But what is this about a goat and why is the Puck Fair Ireland’s oldest? In the McGillycuddy Reeks, the highest mountains in Ireland, wild goats take refuge. Each year the “Puck” is caught by the townspeople. On Gathering Day the town’s civic leaders lead the captured and somewhat confused goat through the town streets. When the procession reaches the town square, Puck is coronated “King Puck” and then spends the next three days on a raised platform 20 feet about the town, watching his mad subjects below.
came into being. King James I in 1610 granted the livestock fair in Killorglin an official status, making the Puck Fair the oldest continual fair in Ireland.
to Ireland during all months of the year. Shannon hosts the international airport closest to Kerry, but many fly directly into Dublin and travel from there. Your agent will likewise arrange car rental for you. Killorglin is located on the Ring of Kerry Road. From Killarney take the N72 and from Tralee take the N70. Some of Ireland’s most breathtaking scenery is along the way. The Ring of Kerry is worth the visit in its own right. The circular drive runs the mountains of Kerry on the Iveragh Peninsula past stone walls, old castles and monasteries. These are some of the world’s most beautiful hills and vales harboring some of the world’s friendliest people. There are many places to stay during your visit: Killarney is popular, and for more remote and intimate accommodations, also consider Kenmare, Dingle Town or one of the surrounding communities. While you are there, be sure to also visit the Celtic ruins and early Christian monasteries and shrines in the Dingle Peninsula area.
During the Puck Fair, various livestock auctions and events are held. Horse traders gather from all over Europe and the United States to buy, sell and trade their mounts, while farmers from the local area trade out their cattle and sheep. The Guinness Music Trail Competition is held during the Puck Fair, OK…appears we have some pagan with local pubs competing for the underpinnings here. Certainly there Guinness Cuchulainn Statuette. seem to be some links to pre-Chris- There are parades featuring bands tian celebrations of a harvest and from across Ireland, and music on that the male goat is well known as every corner. The streets are filled a pagan symbol of fertility. Some with street entertainers and at night will tell you than the festival began fireworks break out amidst the in honor of the Celtic sun god in an merriment. ancient festival of Lughnasa. But it is immediately apparent that Another legend, however, dates the it is the humans, not King Puck, Puck’s role in the fair to 1650 when who are having the best time. The Oliver Cromwell advanced on Ker- pubs are open until 3 a.m. each day. ry. A herd of goats raised the alarm, After three days of music, livestock with one brave male goat running and Guinness, the crowds release directly into town bleating a call to King Puck back into the mountains, Have a great time, and be sure to arms, alerting the town’s people to freeing him from his courtly duties. pay your respects to King Puck! the invading army of British solYour travel agent will have many diers. In his honor, the Puck Fair excellent packages and air programs
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H A W A SIX ISLANDS I OF PARADISE I AN INTRODUCTION Terra Travelers || 36
If you are like most who have never been to Hawaii, the state’s islands blend into a mass of unpronounceable vowels and indistinct images of a tropical paradise. The geography of the islands is not difficult, however, and all it takes is one trip to make visitors long to become experts. So if you have never been, or if you have only been to one island, this introduction should whet your appetite and familiarize you with the islands and their most important characteristics. Perhaps the most amazing fact you’ll find is how close and reasonably priced Hawaii typically is. Long thought of as a distant playground for the wealthy, Hawaii is less than 6 hours from the west coast and with the assistance of a good travel professional, affordable as well.
GEOGRAPHY Most do not realize that Hawaii’s islands span more than 1,500 miles, creating the longest chain of islands in the world. In total, Hawaii is actually 130 separate islands if you include the atolls and coral reefs above sea level. However, the eight of these islands that cover 99% of the land area receive all of the attention, and of those, only six offer tourism opportunities (Niihau is privately owned and Kahoolawe was once a test range for the US Navy). The six major islands are Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Lanai, Maui, and Hawaii’s Big Island. Each island has its own identity, ambiance, climate and geological features that make it unique. The Hawaiian Islands are volcanic, the products of millions of years of undersea eruptions; today, however, the only active volcano is on Hawaii’s Big Island. Hawaii’s climate is an amazing phenomenon, as well. Climatologists will tell you that the earth has 13 types of climatic conditions, and of those, 11 are represented on Hawaii – the only missing conditions are Arctic and Saharan. At sea level, summer temperatures average 80 degrees Fahrenheit and in winter, a balmy 75 degrees. Year round, the average water temperature is 74 degrees.
GETTING AROUND Getting around on the islands is a cinch. A ferry runs be-
tween Maui and Lanai and Maui and Molokai, and inter-island flights offer multi-island passes at a discount. Most visitors relish self-drive adventures, touring the winding roads along the beaches or into the interior of the islands at their own pace. Rental options range from scooters to Ferraris, but for a classic experience, try renting a Jeep. At the present time, however, rental cars are a bit scarce and pricey, so book as far in advance as possible.
WHAT TO DO What’s truly unique about Hawaii, though, is the sheer number of activities available in such an amazingly beautiful setting – the scenery is unmatched and unlike anything in the world. Mountains and beaches, tropical rainforests and snow. Pineapple plantations and volcanoes. Sit and do nothing, or try just a few of the built-in diversions that nature has given a home here: water sports like surfing, windsurfing, boating, sailing, snorkeling, diving, fishing and kayaking; or try golf, tennis, world-class bicycling, hiking and camping. The islands are also home to an entire health industry, with internationally recognized spas, yoga and holistic centers throughout the state. And Hawaii takes the precious gifts that nature has bestowed very seriously, so ecotourism is practiced with a particular zeal here, and many tour and local guide companies offer programs designed around the islands’ flora and fauna. 37 || Terra Travelers
KAUAI
Geologists say that Kauai is the oldest island of the six tourist islands. The rugged coast boasts more miles of beach and hiking trails than all the other islands. This is the island serving as a backdrop for many films, including Jurassic Park. Its primitive, tropical beauty evokes the Garden of Eden – it is an island of mountains and valleys, waterfalls and beautiful beaches. On the Northwest side of the island, 3,000 foot cliffs line the Na Pali Coast, much of it inaccessible except by boat o hikes on foot. The island is circular in shape, offering five areas developed for tourism. This well-rounded destination appeals t commercial shoppers, fine diners, and eco-tourists alike.
OAHU
Oahu is the most commercial of the islands, and home to Waikiki and Honolulu. But do not let that fool you: Oahu mesmerizes visitors with rainforests, mountains, valleys, and spectacular ocean waves. A great suggestion for any island newcomer is to rent a car (an open top is ideal) and drive the perimeter of the island – you may well be awed by how undeveloped and quaint much of the island remains. Honolulu, on the southern tip of Oahu and bordered by both mountains and ocean, is actually one of the largest cities in the United States and home to near 80% of the Hawaiian population. Waikiki is famous the world over, where urban culture and the distinct Polynesian flavor of Hawaii co-exist in perfect harmony. Diamond Head, a mountainous volcanic crater, is a famous and easily recognizable landmark.
MOLOKAI
Words most often associated with the island of Molokai are peace and tranquility. Molokai is home to many of the ecological and adventure-oriented activities found in Hawaii. The eastern side of the island is very green and tropical, and the western side, in contrast, offers dry grasslands and beaches. To the north, tall sea cliffs rising more than 3,500 feet above sea level look out over the ocean and create Hawaii’s tallest waterfall. The Kalaupapa Peninsula is considered one of the state’s most beautiful areas and is ironically the former home of the island’s famous leper colony, bordered by high, sheltering cliffs on one side. The main “urban” area is Kaunakakai, a town with no traffic lights. Terra Travelers || 38
LANAI
Lanai is a largely rural island, sheltered from the leeward winds by Maui, some nine miles away. There are only 32 miles of pavement on the island, and much of it is given over to luxury resorts, golfing, and activities for adventurous personalities, and it is oft-considered the Hawaii’s best snorkeling and scuba diving spot. Lanai was at one time a giant pineapple plantation and is home to some of Hawaii’s most famous beaches, such as Hulopoe Bay. The only town on the island is Lanai City, a quaint town filled with small shops and artist studios. Lanai entertains many visitors with large luxury resorts and their attendant championship golf properties.
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MAUI
The island of Maui has something for everyone. The dormant Haleakala volcano (though officially classified as “active”) and Kahalawai volcano watch over Hawaii’s second largest island and shape the island’s mountains, valleys and waterfalls. Visitors to Maui are surprised by how undeveloped most of the island feels, and yet how much it offers in terms of dining, resorts and nightlife. Maui is also the whale watching center for the islands (the humpback whale is the state animal). Driving to the top of Haleakala to watch the sunrise is a Maui visitor ritual (many opt to bike back down from the top), as is a drive around the island’s perimeter on the 50 mile Hana Highway. Another attraction is the small village of Lahaina, full of great shops and restaurants.
THE BIG ISLAND
The Big Island is the home to the Kilauea volcano: the still active, currently erupting volcano is the most active volcano in the world, with a continual lava flow pouring into the ocean since 1983, creating approximately 40 new acres of island every year. The Big Island is as large as all of the other islands combined, with more than 260 miles of coast. During the winter, it can actually snow on the island’s tallest mountain, Mauna Kea, and you can snow ski on its 13,796 foot altitudes, weather permitting. The Kona-Kohala Coast on the Big Island hosts several luxury resorts and golf facilities along with its white-sand beaches. Here, too, is the town of Hilo, displaying its tropical, quintessential Hawaiian culture.
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C O STA R I C A Terra Travelers || 40
Costa Rica is a land teeming with the paradoxes of its geographical location, bridging North and South America and the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. The resulting climate makes it ideal for year-round travel. The forces of nature are at their spectacular best here, churning out rainforest and volcanoes, great beaches and vistas. The animals and plants of the region are of two great continents. The diversity of flora and fauna, of geography and terrain all come together here in a mere 50,895 square kilometers. The elevation of much of the country’s landmass offsets the tropical setting of its location only 8 degrees north of the equator. Like Hawaii in the Pacific, Costa Rica hosts 10 of the 13 recognized climatic zones as well as local microclimates.
GEOGRAPHY The equatorial position of the country means throughout the year there is a fairly constant twelve hours of light between sunrise and sunset from 6:00 am each day to 6:00 pm. The county’s location also maintains a fairly constant temperature, never varying more than a few degrees on a seasonal basis. If you are traveling from the Northern Hemisphere, you are used to giving due consideration to terms like “summer” and “winter”. However, in Costa Rica, the seasons revolve around a dry season, December through April and a wet season May through November. Costa Rica promotes their “wet season” as the “Green Season.” This is not just clever marketing. The year-round nature of Costa Rica’s travel opportunities has made it the Caribbean destination with the highest tourism growth. The Green Season is an excellent time to travel to Costa Rica. This is when the warm, wet climate brings the plant life into full bloom, and the country’s verdant flora explodes with the vibrant life characteristic of Costa Rica. As we will discuss below, the green season means more wildlife, better visibility and rates that are easier on the pocketbook! December, January, and February tend to be cooler as winds from the north lower the temperatures. In the coastal regions, the average temperature at sea level is 82 degrees Fahrenheit on the eastern Caribbean side of the country and 89 degrees on the Pacific side. As you climb in elevation, temperatures begin to drop approximately one degree for every 100 yards. Thus, in the mountains, jackets, sweaters and coats in the highest elevations are definitely in order. Temperatures at night tend to be warmer in the wet season. Costa Rica’s mountain ranges, situated between two oceanic climatic and moisture zones, mean that rainfall is a part of Costa Rica’s ecology. Annual rainfall averages approximately 100 inches in the plains and 150 inches in the mountains, occurring in the early afternoons in the highest elevations and late afternoon or night in the plains. While mornings during the wet season are often bright and sunny, by afternoon the rains typically fall. GREEN SEASON There are real benefits to traveling to Costa Rica during the Green Season. Perhaps the best reason is the abundance of wildlife. The greener foliage and plant life offer a wider range of feeding grounds for the animals. Likewise, because the green season in general means fewer tourists, the animals are more relaxed in their hab-
itat. If one of your reasons for visiting Costa Rica includes paddling sports and time on its rivers, the green season means banks that are consistently filled with fast moving water. The mountains tend to be more clearly visible as the rains carry the fog and haze away making volcano viewing particularly enjoyable. The Green Season also means fewer travelers in the hotels, shops and dining establishments. As a result, general prices for accommodations and practically every aspect of tourism are less than in peak travel season. Packages in Green Season can be as much as 30% less than in peak, and the local population and shop keepers have more time to spend with travelers on an individual basis. BIODIVERSITY As a bridge between North and South America, Costa Rica’s biodiversity is astonishing. Monkeys, sloths, tapirs and wildcats, as well as an unrivaled collection of bird species numbering more than 800 make their home in the rainforest. With more than 25% of the country in national parks, there is great opportunity to leave the beaten path and to see the wide variety of plant and animal life year round. The Costa Rican rainforests are vast, but accessible. The road infrastructure tends to be unpredictable outside of the major cities, and caution when driving is highly advisable, especially during rain storms. Many roads are unpaved and bridges are often single-vehicle width. The best advice in any weather is to plan ahead, take your time and enjoy the scenery. WHAT TO DO Any experienced visitor to Costa Rica will tell you that there is no end to the amazing array of things to do. Costa Rica is a nature lover’s paradise. Better yet, ecotourism is a way of life in Costa Rica. The country plays host to a wide variety of adventure sports and favorites of travelers include mountain biking, river rafting and scuba diving. Hikes through the rainforests include trips to active volcanoes, boat trips on rivers snaking through the rain forests and opportunities to ride a zip line through the forest canopy. You can watch live lava flows on Arenal Volcano, bird watch (some of the best and most diverse in the world), stand on mountaintops where both the Atlantic and the Pacific are visible, watch the marine turtles at Tortuguero or any one of a hundred other terrific outdoor opportunities. This year, any time this year, give some consideration to placing Costa Rica on your list of “places to visit.” You will be glad you did.
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