TERRA
TRAVELERS
Extraordinary Findings in the World of Travel
Vol. 11 | Spring 2022
RETURN TO TRAVEL
Antigua | Beer + Pub Tours | Spa Terra Vacations Travelers | | 1
Publisher’s Letter Respect Born of Empathy Terra Travelers seeks to inspire a community of travelers that respects the road, respects the people we visit, and those with whom we travel.
The mission statement above summarizes the ethic that inspired the creation of Terra Travelers. At its heart is the promise of sustainable travel the idea that the finite resources of our planet demand a discipline of travelers, one that seeks to preserve and even enhance the natural and cultural environments we encounter as we travel. People who discuss sustainability often do so by speaking to “the three pillars of sustainability” which are social sustainability, economic sustainability, and environmental sustainability. There are countless articles on the Three Pillars and understanding how the three are related and dependent on each other is an important intellectual exercise I want to recommend to you. However, there is a less intellectual and, to my mind, more fundamental element to the sustainability equation, and that is the idea of respect born of empathy. Far too often, especially in an era of mass tourism, the impact of a lack of respect for the road and the people we visit are the most visible wounds inflicted by travelers. When we don’t respect the environment, when we lack compassion for the economic disparities we so 2 | | Terra Travelers
often encounter, or when we fail to appreciate the unique presence of a culture’s customs and beliefs, we are deeply in the shadows of sustainability’s demise. As we all return to some sense of normality after two years of sitting still, it is a good time to contemplate traveling with an altered sense of respect, an elevated concern for others and the environment. There are ever so small, but ever so important agreements we can make with ourselves that can alter both the way we perceive our hosts and the way we are perceived as their guests. Empathy, recognizing and respecting the rights of others is a part of our duty to all of humanity. Empathy is essential to respect. We cannot begin to understand the motivations and customs of other cultures without the ability to see life from another person’s perspective. All this somewhat weighty thought is really a big part of the motivation for much of our travels. The opportunity to see the world from different perspectives, to understand that we share more than we differ, and to revel in the differences, is a blessing. Hope to see you on the road.
TERRA TRAVELERS
EXTRAORDINARY FINDINGS IN TRAVEL
PUBLISHER Richard B. Earls
EDITOR Joey DeLoach
AUTHORS Hal Peat Nadia Ali Sue King e. dawson richards Travel Hippy Danni Mei e. dawson richards Lesley Stones Marcia Frost
EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DESIGN Erica Sager
MARKETING EXECUTIVES Randi White
CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Travel Research Online
CUSTOMER SERVICE Erin von Scherrer
Terra Travelers seeks to inspire a community of likeminded individuals that respect the road, respect the people we visit, and those with whom we travel.
60 Second Geography: We know the northwest of the United States for its natural beauty. The states of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Wyoming are vast territories where the traveler finds an American landscape unlike any other. Lush forests and the Rocky Mountains, Colombia Mountains, and the Cascade Range hold a special place in new world mythology. This region of the United States was the last to be explored by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark on their expedition commissioned by Thomas Jefferson. Charting the rivers of the northwest was certainly important for trade and commerce but the story they tell as they flow through the mountain ranges and valleys invites you to embrace your inner pioneer. On the state line between Oregon and Washington, just 30 miles east of Portland, sits the mighty Colombia River Gorge. As its namesake implies, this is where the Columbia River cuts through the Cascade Mountains sometimes up to 4,000 feet deep. Extending almost 80 miles along the border of the two states, there are upwards of 25 waterfalls along the gorge. Some of the major ones include: the Multnomah Falls at 620 feet, Latourell Falls at 249 ft, Wahkeena Falls at 242 ft, and Starvation Creek Falls at 225 feet. The river is navigable and by cruising along this scenic attraction, the traveler will witness a dramatic change in climate and vegetation. The east side of the gorge features a semi-desert while
the west side becomes a temperate rain forest. This section of the Columbia River is truly an American treasure. Further west along the Columbia River is Mount St. Helens. This volcano is known for its eruption on May 18, 1980 which was so explosive that it actually shaved the summit elevation from 9,677 ft to 8,363 ft and triggered a 5.1 earthquake. Today, the volcano sits quietly in picturesque view—ready to be witnessed by the traveler. Connected to the Columbia River in the east, the Snake River starts in eastern Washington and runs southeast into Oregon, Idaho, and Wyoming. Where three of those states meet (Washington, Oregon, and Idaho) the traveler will find Hell’s Canyon. Most of Hell’s Canyon is inaccessible by road which makes a cruise through its 1-mile deep canyons a perfect way to view the deepest gorge in the United States. As the river winds through pristine forests along this massive gorge, the traveler feels compelled to be in awe of nature. With an unbelievable amount of nearly untouched wilderness to witness from leisurely rivers and the excitement of retracing the waterways of famous explorers, cruises along the rivers of the American Northwest give the traveler a new take on what it means to see the United States in all its natural glory.
Rivers of the American Northwest
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Antigua - pg. 8
Beer + Pub Tours - pg. 12
Exploring Cartagena - pg. 18
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Greenwich, London - pg. 22
CONT
Mackinac Island - pg. 24
Thanksgiving Parade - pg. 28
Spa Vacation - pg. 32
ENTS
Victoria Falls - pg. 36
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ANTIGUA How an island’s nautical past lives on in fine style today by Hal
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Peat
From early colonial days to the present, the eastern Caribbean island of Antigua emerged first as a naval base and later a favored port for sailors and seafaring adventurers. Down through the centuries, those changes have included the presence of British admiral Horatio Nelson in the late eighteenth century and, in more recent times, yachting enthusiasts of all levels. The island’s naval legacy has its origin in the wider conflict and competition across the Caribbean between the British and their European rivals in earlier centuries. Thanks to its geographic location and abundance of sheltering harbors and inlets, Antigua became vitally important in both defense and offensive naval strategy. At the same time, its location also made the island an essential port of call and center of commerce in the trading routes of this region. From Early Naval Origins to Contemporary Sailing World
identities and purpose but which still display much of their original architecture and, in many cases, preserve the interior Antigua’s nautical diversity nowadays can period style and décor. Also outstanding be found in different dimensions–from events and activities on water to well-pre- for the legacy and insight they preserve, each in their fashion, are such buildings as served locations on land transformed into living museums. The centerpiece of its naval the Admiral’s Inn, the Dockyard Museum, the impressive Copper & Lumber Store, or history remains at English Harbour on the winding southern coast. Located within the Hamilton’s restaurant in the old officer’s quarters. Outside, reminders of the Dockfifteen square mile area of Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, a district that includes yard’s naval past are also visible, notably the Shirley Heights and the sites of some forts, imposing stone plinths that mark the site’s English Harbour’s origins were as a base for origins as a refitting and overhaul base. the British navy during the late eighteenth century. This turbulent era saw other Carib- A Venue of Regattas and Nautical bean islands change hands multiple times Challenge between the great colonial powers, but While event organizers around Antigua may Antigua remained British throughout with frequently enthuse about it as the “sailing its excellent fortification and vigilant fleet. capital of the world,” there is no doubt that its geographic position, favorable nautical What came to be known as Nelson’s conditions in winds and currents that make Dockyard would survive as headquarters it a year-round or second home to many for the British Leeward Islands fleet into the dedicated sailing enthusiasts also benefit mid-nineteenth century but was gradually the island as a present-day hub on the abandoned until its post-war restoration annual Caribbean regatta calendar. The began. Today, visitors explore a renovated origins for this are found within Nelson’s array of buildings that have taken on new Dockyard and the charter yachting industry
that developed there after the Second World War when Commander Desmond Nicholson and family began the restoration of the original dockyard. Decades later, English Harbour and other yachting ports of call around Antigua have become established favorites with sailors from across the globe. Some come to race along the offshore waters in small sailboats, while others arrive in large motorized yachts and cruisers. Antigua’s upwind locations also mean that many desirable cruising destinations are just a day or two’s voyage away – all of which were important for the appearance of the first Antigua Sailing Week, first staged by Nicholson and other local yachters as an informal regatta in the Sixties. Since then, the event has become an annual star on the global sailing calendar, attracting over two hundred yachts over five days of races in eight classes. From onshore vantage points, thousands of spectators and revelers come to observe the competing craft. Sailing Week is the highlight of a winter season of diverse racing events along Terra Travelers | | 9
Antigua’s coastline, with local facilities here and the expertise of crews and availability of ideal marinas providing the necessary support. Other local events of note that have their own distinct identity include the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta when competitors showcase the finer features of their traditional yachts and tall ships. Then there are other such special category sailing events that draw their own loyal competitors and spectators – such as the Round the Island Race or Valentine’s Day Regatta. Also, races that span the wider stretches between neighboring islands and include Antigua as a key point on their course, such as the RORC (Royal Ocean Racing Club) Caribbean 600 Yacht Race which winds from Anguilla down to Guadeloupe. Recent years have also brought along events for the most advanced class of “superyacht” - such as the three-day Superyacht Challenge Antigua held in January in pursuit races along the island’s dramatic southern coast.
the various hosting venues at English Harbour, Admiral’s Inn, or the Antigua Yacht Club exude their authentic ambiance for the ceremonies and celebrations surrounding each host’s yacht events. Tradition and historic connection are evoked in more than one dimension – with Sailing Week itself, for instance, concluding with the appropriately named Lord Nelson Ball.
As in centuries past, the protected inlets at English Harbour and Falmouth Harbour continue to provide an ideal anchor for the sailing craft of both local and visiting competing yachters. The facilities and surroundings at
Secluded Bays for Classic to Extreme Nautical Sport
The opportunity to immerse in the finely restored premises of Nelson’s Dockyard and beyond during one of the year’s nautical events is always another way to appreciate the ambiance and legacy of the area. Sailor and spectator alike can savor a waterfront alfresco lunch or sunset dinner at English Harbour’s Admiral’s Inn Restaurant as the yachts pull in or launch seaward. A more elevated and sweeping panorama of the harbor inlets below awaits the visitor while dining at the restaurant and bar built into the original eighteenth-century fortifications at Shirley Heights.
A somewhat different blend of traditional and contemporary watersports and the backdrop lies with Antigua’s east coast locations. Here, *
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many of the conditions that made Antigua attractive for its earliest classic yachting have also proven favorable for bringing along more recent categories of water sport. At the same time, traditional sailing retains a presence and popularity among many who visit. The best access for extreme watersports is found nowadays at such east coast inlets as Half Moon or Willoughby Bay due to their greater exposure and the challenging variation of calm and gusting winds. At Nonsuch Bay, one of the most spectacular and pristine larger bays on this side of the island, the combination of reef-sheltered waters and variable winds create a fine opportunity for both fans of contemporary watersport and stalwarts of classic sailing. The offshore presence of the islet of Green Island is another access point for all nautical enthusiasts – be it kitesurfer or sailboat explorer. Whether from the elevation of Shirley Heights, the inlets along English Harbour, or the waterfront dining terraces above Nonsuch Bay, Antigua’s enduring nautical connection to its Caribbean coastline provides access to its waters for both seasoned and seasoned and a new adventurer to savor in their own sailing style.
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NAUTICAL ANTIGUA: MORE RESOURCES English Harbour - Nelson’s Dockyard National Park – www.nationalparksantigua.com; 9 am – 5 pm. - The Dockyard Museum – A nautical and historical collection of items and documents related to the Dockyard and spanning colonial to modern-day; Tel: 268-481-5027; www.dockyardmuseum.org Area Stays - Admiral’s Inn – Tel: 268-460-1027; info@admiralsinnantigua.com; www. admiralsantigua.com - Gunpowder House & Suites – Tel: 268 460 1027; info@gunpowderhouse.com; www.gunpowderhouse.com - Copper & Lumber Store – Tel: 268.460.1160; info@copperandlumberhotel.com; www.copperandlumberhotel.com Annual Nautical Events 10 | | Terra Travelers
- Antigua Sailing Week – Antigua Yacht Club Marina Resort, English Harbour; April 30 – May 6, 2022; Tel: 268 734-6366; email: info@sailingweek.com; www. sailingweek.com Other annual: Superyacht Challenge Antigua – Superyachtchallengeantigua. com; March 2022; - Antigua Classics Yacht Regatta – www.antiguaclassics.com: March/April 2022; Round the Island Race, or Valentine’s Day Regatta – antiguayachtclub.com: Getting There By air - Direct air access from the US or UK; also regional connections from San Juan and other eastern Caribbean points. All about Antigua & Barbuda Antigua and Barbuda Tourism Authority (ABTA) – In St. John’s, Antigua Tel:: 268562-7600; In the US: Antigua and Barbuda Tourist Office: Tel:: 212-541-4117; online at: www.visitantiguabarbuda.com
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Travel Hippy
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the social order. Pubs are often community meeting places where all manner of politics, hen deciding on a short holiday or religion, and important matters are vigortour, it can be hard to choose between soaking up a destination’s culture and going ously debated. Although you might love beer and have sampled most varieties, you may out to have fun and party. If you like beer, not have much idea about the processes you can do both at once. Beer has never involved and the history behind a manufacbeen more popular than now, and brewery turer. Beer and brewing have helped shape and pub tours give you an opportunity to many societies across the world. Beer and enjoy great companionship while discovpub tours can provide a solid history lesson. ering an area’s culture and history. Beer festivals and tours are becoming increasing- Many tour operators also offer literary pub ly popular additions to a holiday, especially tours, walking tours, and day tours centered around a city’s pub culture. You will also, of with groups of friends who travel together. You no longer need to separate your holiday course, get to try some great beer and food along the way. Whether you are mad about time into culture and entertainment. Beer beer or enjoy the odd pint, a beer tour or tours come in many forms, from tasting exotic brews at a small pub to tours of large holiday is for you if: - You like to try new beers and would like to breweries or even full-scale beer festivals. learn more about the brewing process. Whatever you fancy trying, there is some- You enjoy socializing with new people and thing to tickle the taste buds of all beer having a good time enthusiasts. No visit to many of the great - You want to experience the atmosphere cities of the world would be complete withand traditions of a country or city, including out visiting their famous and historic pubs. its food and drink Oktoberfest sounds like The culture surrounding pubs is a tradition in many countries and an important part of heaven. Terra Travelers | | 13
You can choose from so many different types of beer tours and holidays: whether you want to take a few days and relax while sipping a new drink in a pub or you want to learn about how beer is made and the culture and history behind it, making a pub or brewery crawl part of your holiday is the stuff of many a great travel tale. Wherever you go, have your travel consultant check into organized pub and beer tours and find the best areas to sample the local flavor. In either scenario, your agent should be able to find excellent travel opportunities and rates to help simplify your choices. Packaged prices for hotel accommodations and airfares are typically available to travel consultants at discounted rates through tour operators. In addition, your agent will have plenty of resources to help make your time on vacation efficient and well spent. The many types of beer tours cater to various different needs, budgets, and appetites. If you are short on time and want to tour an area, then a simple pub or bar tour where you can sample the local products is a great way to get started. You 14 | | Terra Travelers
can organize these tours yourself by doing research or just strolling from one place to another. Many tour operators provide beer and pub tours on a designated tour route. One of the most famous and legendary of these tours is the Monopoly Pub Tour in London, which allows you to see all the major sites on the London Monopoly board while sampling local beer products in the UK capital”s most famous drinking establishments. Many cities in Europe have organized “pub crawls” (“pub” being a shortened form of the term “public house,” indicating a tavern licensed to sell alcohol) that use the atmosphere of the pubs as a way to meet new friends and introduce patrons to new bars. Examples include the FunkyParis pub crawl in Paris and the FunkyRiviera pub crawl in Nice. Amsterdam sports the Ultimate Party pub crawl. Not to be outdone, the Germans have their New Berlin and New Munich Pub Crawls. But the most famous of all the pub crawls may be the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, themed around the haunts of James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, and Brendan Behan. These highly festive occasions are led by
professional actors performing the works of the writers in various pub venues around the city. If you are looking for something with a bit more information regarding the history of beer itself, then taking a brewery tour is a great option. Tours of breweries can be found across the world, providing a behind-the-scenes look at the beer-making process. Whether you want to see how your favorite beer is made or try great beer straight from the source, a brewery tour is the perfect answer. From tours of the massive Anheuser-Busch brewery in St. Louis, USA, to tiny independent breweries in the UK, Europe or Sydney, much can be learned - and tasted! One of the best examples of a brewery tour is in Belgium, at the Brasserie d”Achouffe. This brewery is one of the finest in the world and is best known for its La Chouffe beer, which was once named “Best Beer of the 20th Century”. While not all breweries offer beer tours, most of the famous names in the world of beer will offer some sort of tour, usually with a historical briefing on the making of the product followed by a
tasting session. Many tours also provide food in a special restaurant or buffet, often with a beer-themed menu. Organizing these tours is relatively simple, and your travel consultant can provide you with information on which brewers offer the tours. If these tours are not enough to quench your curiosity, one way to combine a holiday with beer is to go to one of the numerous beer festivals around the world. These festivals are a celebration of all things to do with beer and run for days or even weeks. You can soak up the city atmosphere while trying beers from all around the world. You have some amazing beer festivals from which to choose, including
the Great British Beer Festival and the Oregon Brewer”s festival. However, the best and most significant of all the celebrations has to be the ultra-famous Oktoberfest in Munich. This beer extravaganza is genuinely heaven for all beer lovers, and with Munich as a backdrop, it doesn’t get much better. The first Oktoberfest occurred in 1810 to honor the marriage of Prince Ludwig to Princess Therese. If you missed that one, no fear, the celebration is held each year and is one of the premier beer events anywhere.
cities famous for their beer. These cities not only offer some of the best beer and pubs around but also give you the opportunity to see incredible architecture and absorb the city”s culture. One of the best cities to visit is London, with over 6,000 pubs serving a variety of local real ales, plus beers from all around the world. Combine this with stunning architecture and world-class attractions, and you have a heady mix for any beer-loving culture vulture. Other great cities to visit include the Guinness-filled city of Dublin and the historic If you want to make beer part beer meccas of Prague, Muof your holiday, then take a nich, and Boston. trip to one of many historic
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Deciding on when and where to go can be a difficult decision, and your choices will focus on how much of your vacation you want to be centered around beer. If you simply want to go on a few brewery tours or are curious about beer, then negotiating the crowds of Munich during Oktoberfest might not be the best idea. Instead, go where you can experience as little or as much beer culture as you want. Destinations like Dublin, London, or Brussels are ideal and permit others in your party to indulge in plenty of other activities like shopping or sightseeing. Ask your travel consultant about “shoulder” and “low season” rates. During off-peak travel times, rates are almost always available at a sizeable discount over high season. The crowds are fewer, the prices better and the atmosphere in many destinations is much more intimate. However, the trade-off in weather and climate may be more than enough for you to decide to do your beer and pub studies during peak travel times. Although many beer tours will allow young-
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er people on tours of their facilities, there are often prohibitions on the consumption of any alcohol by persons under the age of 18. Also, while the US has a higher drinking age than most of Europe, this is not universally the case. Generally, holidays centered on beer festivals are only suitable for adults. If you intend on visiting breweries and pubs and you have children, definitely ask your travel agent to help you consider the proper logistics for your visit. Need we suggest to a worldly person such as yourself that one of the first considerations of a beer and pub tour is that you drink in moderation? Overdoing it on the first day will only reduce your enjoyment of the holiday, as well as damage your health and potentially your relationship with any non-drinking traveling companion. Beer outside the United States often contains a higher alcohol concentration, so enjoy in moderation or suffer the consequences! But with that in mind... So many beers, so little time.
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EXPLORING CARTAGENA’S HISTORICAL CENTER
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Sue King
Founded in 1533 by the Spanish, Cartagena is situated on the northern Caribbean coast of Colombia and was Spain’s gateway to its new empire. Trading in gold, silver, tobacco, and regrettably enslaved people, the city boomed. These days, Cartagena draws tourists from all over the world, many of them arriving on cruise ships to explore the cobbled streets and colonial buildings of the colorful old city. The historic streets of Cartagena’s old city are full of stunning colonial architecture, and it’s easy to understand why the area is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bursting with palaces, mansions, churches, and museums, it truly is one of the world’s cultural hotspots.
As well as brightly painted colonial houses and picture-perfect balconies draped in bougainvillea, designer boutiques and swanky restaurants abound. Vendors sell delicious street food, and Palenquera women in colorful dresses pose for tourists with baskets of fruit balanced on their heads. Cartagena also loves to party, and there is no shortage of bars and clubs to head to as the sun sinks into the Caribbean Sea. I must admit that I was less than impressed with other areas of the city, much of it being edgy and not particularly attractive. Still, the beauty of the Centro Historico is undeniable. Not only does it feel safe, but it’s a feast for the eyes and undoubtedly a highlight of a trip to Colombia. Terra Travelers | | 19
Check out the Museum of Modern Art I loved perusing this compact but well-presented museum. It’s located within the walls of the 17th century Royal Customs House in Plaza San Pedro Claver. If you look for the whimsical sculptures made from spare parts outside the museum, you can’t miss them. Established in 1959, the museum is home to both permanent and temporary exhibits by local, national, and international artists. There is a particular focus on Alejandro Obregon and Enrique Grau’s works and a selection of contemporary Caribbean art.
and gift shops, the bustling area is often crowded with bus tours. It’s an ideal one-stop-shop for those looking for gifts and souvenirs but are tight on time.
Visit the Palace of Inquisition This building was used as a place of torture during the Spanish Inquisition. Heretics, witches, and those who disobeyed the rules of the Catholic Church were brought to trial here between 1610 and 1815. Upstairs is a modest history museum, and outside in the courtyard, there are models of gallows and a guillotine. The most imStroll along the City Walls pressive feature is the building itself, a beautiful Constructed to protect the city from marauding example of colonial architecture. pirates, the length of the wall runs for nearly . seven miles. It’s an impressive engineering feat, Take in some maritime history at the built between 1586 and 1786, and it takes about Naval Museum two hours to walk its entire length. I attempted it, For those interested in maritime history, it’s but I have to say that it’s not advisable under the worth paying a visit to the Museo Naval del Cariintense Colombian sun! I darted into a café for be, which focuses on Naval history in the Cariba cold drink halfway along the wall before turnbean. Most of the signage is in Spanish, so it’s ing back. There are several bastions from where wise to ask if an English-speaking guide is availguards looked out for potential attackers. Early able unless your Spanish is decent. The courtevening is the best time to visit the wall when yard is used to display cannons, and there are a many people gather to watch the sunset. number of artifacts found in the harbor. Another attractive section is dedicated to pirates. Dip into the Gold Museum Although it’s not on the same scale as the Gold Wander through the Hip Neighbourhood of Museum in Bogota, Museo del Oro is a lovely litGetsemani tle museum in its own right. As a bonus, it’s also I always like to seek out alternative areas in the free. Exhibits display the remarkable craftsman- cities I visit, and Getsemani was on my wish list ship of Colombia’s indigenous Zenu people’s long before arriving in Cartagena. Just south of intricate gold work. The stand-out feature is an Centro Historico, this area was somewhat notoriimpressive pre-Hispanic gold jaguar. Additional- ous back in the day for gang crime, prostitution, ly, there are 538 gold exhibits and a selection of and drug dealing. These days, Cartagena’s hipcarvings. The museum is in a magnificent buildpest neighborhood is overflowing with galleries, ing on Plaza Bolivar, and it’s worth bearing in street art, and cool cafes. It’s about a ten-minute mind that it’s well air-conditioned – a godsend in walk from the walled city but has a great vibe the heat of Cartagena! and is well worth visiting. I had one of my best nights out in Colombia at Plaza Trinidad, where Pick up a souvenir at Las Bovedas live music fills the air and dancers take to the Constructed by the Spanish Army at the end of streets. Vendors set up stalls selling street food, the 18th century, Las Bovedas were originally and the area buzzes with energy. storage vaults for ammunition and used as dungeons in the civil war. Finally, Las Bovedas were Take a Free Walking Tour of the City converted into shops. Home to galleries, bars, There are several free walking tours of the his20 | | Terra Travelers
toric center. They are a great way to gain insight into Cartagena’s history, culture, and people, and a tour can bring the city to life. I took the ‘Free Tour Cartagena,’ which was excellent – the guides are locals who know the city inside out and are happy to answer any questions.
made of Colombian dough or flour flatbread. They are filled with egg or cheese and ground beef and served with sour cream or guacamole. Other variations include shrimp, chicken, or chorizo. Stalls, stands, pushcarts, and bicycle vendors ply the city streets. A tempting range of fresh Caribbean juices is Meet the Local Wildlife at Parque del Centenario sold on every street corner. The fruit is crushed, This park links the old city to the neighborhood and then water, lime, and sugar are added. I beof Getsemani. It’s not the prettiest of urban came addicted to these super-refreshing drinks, parks, but there’s a fountain and a few statues which gave me the energy to explore the city. scattered throughout, and it’s a popular hangout Naturally, seafood is a significant part of the spot for locals. The park is unique because it is city’s cuisine, and many of the restaurants focus unusually populated with wildlife for an urban on freshly caught fish dishes. Carmen Restaupark; it is possible to spot sloths, iguanas, monrant was my pick of a great bunch, specializing keys, and parrots! Although they aren’t always in seafood and serving innovative and beautifully easy to see, a friendly guide in the park can show presented dishes in an elegant colonial setting. you where they are for a few dollars. I must also recommend Café Havana. Although tourists outnumber locals at traditional Café Sample the Local Cuisine Havana, it’s a sizzling night out and an opporFrom tasty street food to trailblazing cuisine, tunity to take in some incredible Cuban music Cartagena has become Colombia’s culinary cap- and salsa. The live bands are excellent, and the ital in recent years. The city’s most famous street mojitos flow. food is Arepa de Huevo (or Queso), a flatbread
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6 Places to see in Greenwich, London While London attracts most visitors with its iconic sights of Big Ben, The London Eye, Harrods, and more, there is a place in South-East London that will offer you the time of your life – literally. It is Greenwich, home of the prime meridian line and Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Together with other sights, Greenwich is worth taking the train or boat ride to see.
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by Nadia Ali
The Royal Observatory – open daily 10 am to 5 pm Located in Greenwich Park at the top of the hill is the Royal Observatory, recognizable by a massive green dome. Built in 1675, it is here that maps began their existence. Scientists studied the stars, navigation, and timekeeping with longitude as a baseline and produced maps for sailors. Visitors can walk around the inside, which now has a tourist shop on the ground floor that showcases a fascinating collection of clocks and navigational equipment on its walls. From April 1st, 2022, they have reopened their doors to informative tours, which allow access to planetarium shows, astronomy courses, and learning programs. Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian Line Just a little way down the hill from the observatory is the imaginary line between the North and South poles that runs right around the earth through Greenwich and is designated as zero degrees longitude. Look for the big unique clock on the wall. It is known as The Shepherds Gate Clock. It was the first clock to show Green Mean Time and has a face showing 24-hours instead of 12. Just below on the ground, you will find the Prime Meridian Line. Look for a physical brass track on the ground to show the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Greenwich Park – open daily from 6 am until sunset Before you descend the hill to see the attractions of the Cutty Sark, Greenwich Market, or the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, take some time to stroll through the 74 hectares of the park. Check out the three cafés’, the concert stand and the tea pavilion. Feed the ducks and swans at the park pond enclosed pond area, and for those of you who knew it had an enclosed deer area, it has been moved to Richmond Park and no longer exists. The Victorian-style flower beds showcase uniformed plants and flowers bursting with color and fragrance. Depending on the season, there are red and yellow tulips, sunshine yellow daffodils, colorful hydrangeas, and the striking purple of the iris. Fragrances waft through the air, and the manicured grass beckons you to take a seat to admire the floral display.
Cutty Sark – open daily 10 am to 5 pm. The Cutty Sark is a ship that sits at the bottom of Greenwich Park in a drydock. Built in 1869, it’s a tea clipper and used to carry tea from China to ports around the world; the majestic ship has a mast that towers 153 feet into the air and 212 feet long. Having been restored in all its glory, you can now take a 45-minute paid tour where you get to walk under the helm and take the captain’s wheel. You can visit the café on the lower deck and order a typical English afternoon tea, including finger sandwiches, macaroon, brownie, and British scones served with cream and jam. There is a visitors’ shop for commemorative plaques, sundial compasses, or a packet of butterscotch crunch biscuits from a lovely assortment of luxury biscuits. Underground Thames Walk – open 24/7 Have you ever wanted to walk underneath the River Thames and live to tell the tale? Well, you can do just that at the Greenwich Foot Tunnel. Located near the river’s edge, housed in a green-domed-shaped building, is the shaft that leads to a spiral staircase that will take you 50 feet down. There is also an old-time elevator to make it easier. You then approach the tunnel, which is about 9 feet cylindrical and made of cast iron with a white tiled exterior. It takes about 15 minutes. It is free, and once you get to the other side, you can admire Greenwich! Greenwich Market – open daily 10 am-5:30 pm. When you are ready to eat, head to the Greenwich Market. It is in the heart of the busy center. There you will find culinary delights from across the globe. Try Brazilian churros, Ethiopian vegetarian food, and Andes Empanadas, to name a few. There are also souvenir stalls, handicraft and art stalls, and homemade jewelry. Although it’s not very big, it can keep you occupied with lots to see and try. There are also surrounding shops, restaurants, and pubs. From London Bridge, you can take an 8-minute train ride from London Bridge or Cannon Street stations to Greenwich station. You can take a 25-minute riverboat ride from Westminster, Embankment, London Bridge City, Canary Wharf, and Tower piers that will drop you by Greenwich Pier. Terra Travelers | | 23
Living The Grand Life on Mackinac Island
by
Marcia Frost
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Ever since I watched Somewhere In Time, enough to visit twice (and plan to go again the 1980 movie starring Christopher Reeve soon). and Jane Seymour, I dreamed about going to Mackinac Island. Mackinac Island is at the intersection of Great Lakes Huron and Michigan and does The movie was set in 1972, yet it showed not allow motorized vehicles or chain hoa Michigan paradise focused on a historic tels. Transportation is with bicycles, and Grand Hotel and an island with no cars. horse-drawn carriages are the taxis. That place still exists, and I’ve been lucky
Getting There
Although some people remain on Mackinac through the winter, the season when everything is open is May to October. The most popular way to get to Mackinac Island is by ferry. Two public companies go back and forth to the island from April (the exact date depends on weather) through the end of October. Before that, you will have to travel on the ice. Sheplers Ferry goes from two Michigan ports, Mackinaw City and St. Ignace. I’ve done both rides. The trips are scenic with views of the “Mighty Mac” Bridge and only takes about 20 minutes. Star Line Ferry travels the same path and
does adult-only and family-friendly cruises from the island. Parking at both ferry lines is free of charge, and there are workers to take your bags. They will be loaded onto the horse carriage when you arrive on Mackinac and taken directly to your hotel. You can bring bicycles and pets. Both ferries are accessible to wheelchairs and medical scooters. If you are coming from further away, you can fly into Pellston Regional Airport (PLN) near Mackinaw City or Chippewa County International Airport (CIU) close to St. Ignace and take a shuttle to the ferry dock. Another idea is to fly into Detroit or Grand Rapids, rent a car, and enjoy more of the trip to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Terra Travelers | | 25
Where to Stay
Mackinac Island has many places to stay, with Inns and smaller Bed & Breakfast accommodations. There are also condominiums to rent for more space. Two large resorts hold many of the hotel rooms on the island. I’ve stayed at both. The Mission Point Resort, which was beautiful when I was there, improved even more with a complete renovation that included adding the Lakeside Spa. The most striking thing about this property is the stunning view of Lake Huron, especially if you are up for the sunrise. As great as this property is, there’s nothing quite like experiencing the grandeur of Mackinac Island than staying at The Grand.
Life at The Grand
I had seen lots of photos and the Somewhere in Time movie, but my first sight of The Grand Hotel was still mesmerizing. As you pull up in the horse-drawn carriage up the hill, you will see the red phone booth still left over from the movie set. Then there’s the stunning entrance with a large, majestic staircase. The Grand Hotel opened in 1887. It isn’t just rich in history. It is a National Historic Landmark and the top hotel on the Historical Hotels Registry. Its accolades are too many to mention but include the best in hotels by USA Today, Travel + Leisure, and Condé Nast Traveler. Every room is uniquely decorated. Four-poster beds and nightly chocolates at turndown are just a few amenities. It’s all bright and cheery, and the rooms all have views. The most common package includes breakfast and dinner in the Main Dining Room. Breakfast is either a full buffet, or you can order at your table. The baked goods and fruit are fresh and delicious. Meals are part of the experience at this historic hotel. Dinner is five-course and is served in a semi-formal setting by highly trained waiters in white gloves. One of my most memorable meals was a grilled pineapple and ham appetiz-
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er, salad, gazpacho soup, spinach asiago ravioli, and marshmallow Nutella bread pudding for dessert. The menu changes every night with choices in every course and dietary needs. If you prefer to dine on your own and not take the package, you have a selection of 14 bars and restaurants on the property and restaurants downtown. After dinner at The Grand is another experience not to be missed. It’s time to make your way to the longest porch in the world so you can sit in a rocking chair and watch the sunset. You can see the Straits of Magellan and the Mackinac Bridge from the property. You’ll find live music in the parlor and plenty of welcoming staff as you relax with cocktails or dance the rest of the night away.
Island Activities
I recommend starting with Mackinac Island Carriage Tours to get acquainted with the island. The ride will take you through many of the Island’s highlights. Among the places they will take you are the historical Market Street, Wings of Mackinac Butterfly Conservatory, Mackinac Island State Park, Arch Rock, and the Grand Hotel. Don’t forget your camera because there are Kodak moments around every corner of the island. Once you’ve toured and noted where you want to go back, there’s plenty to do. Bike rentals are available downtown and at most hotels. There are plenty of hiking trails, kayaks to rent, and golf to play. The Grand has an Afternoon Tea available even if you aren’t a guest, as is the spa at Mission Point. Downtown is filled with shopping, from souvenirs to boutique clothing. The most popular item for sale is an edible one. Mackinac Island has a dozen shops with fudge to sample. You can buy unique flavors such as Traverse City Cherry, Pumpkin, Espresso, and Michigan Maple Walnut, but rest assured there’s plenty of the favorite for you to bring home Chocolate, of course.
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Attending the Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City in VIP Style by
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Danni Mei
Once upon a time, there was a little girl whose favorite holiday was Thanksgiving. Not for the usual reasons people often give – like the turkey and stuffing, the football, the pumpkin pie, or the gathering of family – although those were definitely a plus. Nope – this little girl loved settling down in front of the television for three hours to watch in amazement as totally in sync marching bands played upbeat tunes, colorful floats glided along the streets, famous singers serenaded the crowd, and balloons that were larger than any she had ever seen before floated as high as the buildings themselves. And every fourth Thursday in November, she promised herself that one day she would see them all in person. By now, you probably realized that little girl is yours truly. And that parade? The Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, of course. Flash forward, say forty years later (give or take – wink wink), and this Thanksgiving-Day-Parade-loving-girl made good on that promise she had made to herself year after year – but in a more spectacular way than she could have ever imagined back then. And as you also may have surmised, this is the story of that day – Thursday, November 25th, 2021 – or the day I checked another experience off my bucket list and attended the Ultimate Thanksgiving Experience in New York City. How Am I Going To View The Parade? Last year – when I made up my mind that this was my year to make that little girl’s dream a reality, I opted to not just go and stand in the crowd – but rather to experience it in a more intimate way – and that was at the Exclusive Thanksgiving Parade Viewing Party. I chose this experience for a few reasons – the top one being that they offered an indoor parade viewing experience which was appealing to me because one – you never know what the weather is going to be like at the end of November in the Big Apple and having a climate-controlled environment in which to take in the parade sounded like an excellent idea, and two – the convenience of having indoor restrooms readily available during the lengthy parade. Among the other deciding factors? This Thanksgiving experience came highly recommended by my Travel Advisor, and it gave me the option to add a hotel stay to my package and, of course, the details of the event itself. To say that this way of taking it all in was a marvelous decision on my part would be an understatement! The Day I’d Been Dreaming About For Decades The atmosphere at the Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City in 2021 was nothing short of electric. And there is no doubt why. After the parade was scaled way
back in 2020, thanks to you-know-what – the 95th annual extravaganza was back and open once again to spectators. I could feel the excitement in the air as I left my hotel room at the Marriott Marquis in Times Square on Thanksgiving morning to trek over to Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse on Sixth Avenue, where the event was taking place. It was a quick ten-minute walk, and it wasn’t lost on me as I strolled past people arriving to claim their spot on the sidewalks that they would be standing there for the next four hours – or longer – all bundled up in heavy coats, hats, scarves, and gloves. I had zero doubt that I chose wisely that brisk November morning. When I arrived at the venue – which opened at 8:00 am – one hour before the official start of the parade, I was greeted by colorful decorations, welcoming staff, and an absolutely beautiful three-story restaurant with floor-toceiling windows. There was seating on the first two levels – and each party was assigned their own table. There was a delicious buffet that featured both hot breakfast and brunch items as well as breads, pastries, fresh fruits, and beverages. One of the things I really appreciated was that the buffet items were set up on both levels – which made them convenient no matter where you were seated – plus, it kept food lines to a minimum. Now – keep in mind the main draw of this event for me was the amazing parade views from INSIDE. However, curbside viewing was also available via a private pen just for guests of this event, so it was never more than four rows deep, giving me super cool up-close views of the mega-talented marching bands, the incredibly imaginative floats, and those magnificent oh-my-gosh-I-cannot-believe-how-big-they-are-in-person balloons! Now I have to point out that the staff advised me that typically there is not a private pen – but of course, you can still go curbside and stand with the rest of the spectators should you choose to do so. As of this writing, it is still to be determined whether they will provide a private outdoor Terra Travelers | | 29
viewing area for the 2022 event, but as I stated – you can always pop outside and hang with the general public.
a balloon artist twisting balloons into all kinds of fun creations.
I also have to mention that we had terrific views of the balloons inside Del Frisco’s from either floor and the floats and marching bands from the second-story balcony. In addition, there were also big-screen TVs available should you want to see the parade from another point of view. Bonus – before the parade reached us, we were treated to holiday classics sung by the star of Broadway’s Ain’t Too Proud – the Story of the Temptations, Jelani Remy (who also starred as Simba in Disney’s The Lion King), and Alysha Umphress who has five Broadway credits and is considered one of the best vocalists in NYC. The two actors also interacted with the guests and took photos with us – very cool. One other nice touch? Even though I personally did not have any children with me, they provided special entertainment just for the kiddos – such as an artist drawing caricatures of them, a face painter creating festive scenes on their little cheeks, and
To Sum It All Up Between the atmosphere inside the restaurant that morning, the incredible parade views it offered, the scrumptious food options available, the entertainment throughout the morning, and of course – the very convenient bathroom facilities – this is one way to view the Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City that you will never forget and certainly won’t regret.
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From the seamless booking process to the hotel accommodations – loved the Marriott Marquis for its fantastic location in the middle of Times Square as well as its beautifully renovated rooms, to the main event at Del Frisco’s – which sits right smack dab in the middle of the parade route on Sixth Avenue near Radio City Music Hall – it was perfection from start to finish. Bucket list item – check!
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SPA VACATION
You’re the kind of person who enjoys the senses, who wants to be pampered, or who wants to make a healthy lifestyle a part of your everyday life. You take candle-lit baths (or wish you could), enjoy aromatherapy, and appreciate the stress-relieving effects of a good massage. When it comes time to vacation, you’re not just thinking sun and surf but health, diet, and a mud bath! You are precisely the kind of person who may want to consider treating yourself to a spa vacation. 32 | | Terra Travelers
by
e. dawson richards
The word spa, taken from the name of the famous mineral
cation than reminding yourself that the experience is all about you! After all, sometimes simply a good sweat is all you need springs in Spa, Belgium, has become an all-inclusive term for a to feel healthier. You can do as much or as little as you’d like to commercial establishment with facilities for exercising, bathimprove the feeling of your own body, and you can relax knowing, and treatment. The range of facilities and services available ing you’ll be under the eye of skilled therapists and nutritionists at spas runs the gamut from what you might find at the local who have your best interests and desires in mind. YMCA to high-end specialty spas, where your entire body-mind Two significant decisions in planning a spa vacation are 1) what is wholly immersed in the experience for hours. The former experiences you want from the visit and 2) where you want to offers fitness and health assessments, body composition analgo. A wide variety of spa options are available; some focus on ysis, personal training, physiotherapy, gymnasiums with stateyour diet, others on physical activity, relaxation, pampering, of-the-art equipment, and an outdoor pool for activities like and/or your spiritual health. Some spas are very structured in volleyball and aqua aerobics, while the latter offers a full menu their approach to treatments, while others allow for individual of services from massage to body wraps to herbal saunas. variation. Those spas focusing on diet and exercise are typically The scent of lavender lingers in the air. The soothing sound of the most structured in their disciplines and scheduling. Your softly flowing water swirls gently into your ears. Warm ginger goals for a spa vacation will largely dictate the type of spa you tea tingles your taste buds. A soft robe rubs gently across your choose and your willingness to forgo flexibility during your stay. skin. A spa vacation excites the senses, but the benefits don’t Destination? Have you always wanted to visit New York? Miami? stop there. There’s also the luxury of experiencing the long-lost Los Angeles? What about someplace more exotic? India? Budaart of relaxation and revitalization, with no end to additional pest? Let your imagination roam. Spas are available worldwide, health benefits. The toxic environment and diet of the modern allowing you to find a vacation just about anywhere your heart world exposes us to pollutants and substances that accumulate desires. Your travel consultant can provide you with details on in our body tissue and bloodstream. Some spas specialize in dozens of spa vacations and themes and the amenities provided treatments that can eliminate toxins through a combination by each. Most spas will offer week-long packages that include of massage, sauna, oils, mild fasting, and colon therapy. Don’t meals, activities, and accommodations. In some instances, be intimidated, though. Nothing is more important on a spa vasteeply discounted airfares are also included.
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If you are on a budget or only have time for a short trip - consider a stay at a hotel famous for its spa treatments, and you can recreate the luxury of a dedicated spa vacation on your own. Your travel agent can recommend hotels with specialized spas in most locations and may even be able to obtain special rates for you. With a spa pass, a few therapy appointments lined up, room service, and several visits to the pool, hot tub, and gym, you can enjoy a few days in near heaven on your own schedule. Upon arriving at a typical spa, you’ll be greeted by a staff member who will assign your accommodations and give you a brief tour, explaining how your time will be structured and how to prepare and dress for any planned activities. For most body services, you will undress completely, but your therapist will allow you to disrobe in private and keep your body draped in sheets or towels, only exposing areas as needed for the treatment. During wet services such as body scrubs, body wraps, and hydrotherapies, you will not be draped in order to reap maximum benefits - but swimsuits are usually optional. Depending on the character of the spa, many aspects of treatment can be modified to your taste and budget. Most spas have overarching dietary philosophies, and your diet during your stay will be of particular importance. Some serve alcohol and caffeine, but many do not. Again, make
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sure to match your personal preferences closely to the character of the spa so you’ll have the experience you expect and will get the most from your visit. Spa Etiquette Before entering a shared pool, always shower. When enjoying the dry sauna or steam room, sit on your towel and wear the sandals provided by the spa. Customs vary in whether or not to wear a swimsuit in wet facilities. Most people enjoy wet rooms in the nude with a wrapped towel, but if modesty is an issue, wearing a swimsuit is generally acceptable as well, and you can always ask about a specific spa’s policies in advance. Share public space respectfully with other spa-goers. Smoking is prohibited at most spas. Turn off your cell phone when you enter a spa, or better yet, leave it in the room with the rest of your valuables - or at home, so you can truly relax. Tipping is standard practice. Some spas will include tips in their package prices. Ask the spa staff or your tour operator if you’re unsure. The rule of thumb in spas is 10%-15% of the cost of service or about $10.00 to $15.00 for a one-hour treatment. Preparations In general, check the weather before you go, so you know what to pack - and pack with your comfort in mind. Depending on your spa’s activities, you may need to bring a swimsuit,
workout wear, a jacket, running or walking shoes, hiking boots, and casual shoes. At some spas, clothing, and equipment are available for purchase, and a robe and sandals are usually provided at no additional charge. You might find that you can pack fewer toiletries since the dressing rooms of many spas have razors, soap, shampoo, skin lotion, and deodorant. If you’re going on an international trip, a valid passport and sometimes a visa is required - make sure to obtain these items well in advance of your travel dates. Consider purchasing travel insurance to protect against baggage loss, trip cancellation or interruption, and unexpected health emergencies. Your travel agent can assist you with these details and any others that will help you relax and prepare for your trip. One of the most important things you can do before your spa vacation is to give yourself a day or two to unwind before leaving mentally. Though this might sound counter-intuitive, since unwinding is often the whole point of a spa vacation, this time will give your mind a chance to become more open and receptive to the experience. It is often difficult to leave work and responsibilities behind, but the sooner you start, the more benefits you’ll receive from your spa vacation. So go ahead. Pamper yourself. If you don’t do it, who will?
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VICTORIA FALLS
REINVENTS ITSELF AFTER TOURISM RAN DRY
by
Lesley Stones
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W hen I stroll down the raised walkway to my tented bedroom in a safari camp, I almost bump into an ele-
phant. She’s as surprised as I am, and we both take a step backwards. Then I quietly walk onto the wooden deck and pull up a chair as she continues eating. Soon more elephants jauntily stroll along to join her until 11 are standing in the mud 100 meters away, drawn by freshwater bubbling out of the ground at Deteema Springs, a five-star tented lodge in Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. Elephants are a big part of the game viewing experience here, along with lions, leopards, buffalo, giraffes, and zebra, and the lodge sits by a dam that attracts them all. Its eight luxurious tents stand on elevated decks, while the main lodge has a small swimming pool and an open-plan lounge, bar, and dining area. One afternoon the action unfolds right in front of the deck, with an amazing standoff between a male lion, a herd of truculent buffalo, and the elephants, who side with the buffalo and scare the lion up onto some rocks, where he stubbornly sits trying to regain his dignity. He’s too outnumbered to cause trouble and too embarrassed to flee. Deteema Springs only opened in 2019, just before the Covid pandemic closed everything down again. Despite the many attractions of Zimbabwe, with its fabulous game viewing and world-famous Victoria Falls waterfalls, the country’s political and economic collapse has kept it off the list for all but the most intrepid travelers. Then they stopped coming too when Covid made international travel impossible. The effect on Victoria Falls town was swift and brutal. Tourism provides the only income here, but almost overnight the hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and bars closed down. Tour companies had nobody to show around, and hundreds of artisans selling in the markets or on the streets had no buyers. When the schools closed, many children from this poor area in a poor country lost their main meal of the day. There was also a looming medical crisis at the ill-equipped hospital. Then the community swung into action by forming an initiative called We Are Victoria Falls. “Looking after the community, nature, wildlife, and our town were key focuses. Everybody was working hand-in-hand to make sure nobody was left behind,” says Shelley Cox, a specialist in linking tourism to conservation and community development. Victoria Falls has become one of the most responsive
tourist areas in the world, with initiatives including free healthcare services and feeding schemes. An HIV/Aids organization donated its buildings as a Covid isolation center, and all the builders in the town volunteered to install plumbing and partitions. Donors provided medical equipment; vegetable gardens were planted; mass vaccinations were rolled out quickly, and a ‘food for work’ scheme let people work on community projects in return for groceries. Moses Kalembela and some other artists formed the Rasta Compassion group and built a kids’ playground, and delivered food to the old age home. Now they are back at the Elephant’s Walk craft center, selling their incredible artwork, weavings, clothing, jewelry, and sculptures as tourists begin to trickle back in. “Anybody who cared about the town came forward and said what can I do?” says Christine Brookstein, creative director of Ndau Collection jewelers. “We have become a family because it’s pulled us together even more.” Their efforts have strengthened the town for the future, with a fully equipped and free medical center, a new vocational opportunity to teach crafts, the opening of a women’s refuge for victims of domestic abuse, and flourishing vegetable gardens. One of the most active players was Blessing Munyenyiwa, founder of the Love For Africa charity. He previously worked for Disney’s Animal Kingdom in Florida and persuaded his international contacts to make hefty donations to the hospital. He’s now opened the Zimbabwe Boutique, a solar-powered hotel with a wine cellar, a spa, gym, and swimming pool, and activities including star gazing and conservation talks. His hotel is one of many newly launched or revamped ventures since tourism will inevitably bounce back because of the magnetic allure of Victoria Falls. The traditional activities are also back in business, with helicopter flips over the falls, white water rafting, river cruises, zip-lining through the gorges, and bungee jumping 111 meters from Victoria Falls bridge. But the locals realized they must also provide extra activities and more varied accommodation to attract more diverse visitors and appeal to post-pandemic travelers. Even before Covid, the visitor profile was already shifting away from young thrill-seekers to more culturally curious people, says Shane White, director of the tour company Wild Horizons. “Many international people want to spend more time getting to know the country they’re visiting rather than just staying in five-star hotels eating Terra Travelers | | 37
the best food. It’s about giving back,” he says. Since foreigners often want to make donations, Wild Horizons has started community tours to a school, an old people’s home, and an orphanage where people can see exactly what is required. “The guest can then go to the shops and buy it and do a little handover ceremony, so they’re buying what’s needed and spending their money in the local economy,” Shane says. Employees at a luxury lodge run by Wild Horizons have been trained to take guests home with them for a family meal experience. “We’re really keen for tourists to get to know the Zimbabweans who serve them and get to know their background, so you can go to their home to meet their family and have a meal with them. The revenue generated goes to the host, and it’s absolutely fantastic,” Shane says. Another activity that spreads the income is visits to a rural village. I joined a tour with Signature Africa to Monde Village, a homestead for the extended family of Chris Ncube. Chris showed us around the cluster of small, thatched, mud-brick houses and described a lifestyle that hasn’t changed for centuries, using plants for medicine, drums instead of telephones, and battles to prevent wild animals from eating their cattle. Visitors can also tour Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust, which runs a rescue and rehabilitation center for injured or orphaned animals. Or you can join a new Conservation and Awareness Safari with Charles
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Brightman of Discover Safaris. That gets you involved in tracking animals and recording game sightings, removing snares, and visiting remote areas to look for signs of poaching. The game viewing here is glorious, and another new attraction is mobile tented camps run by Umdingi Safaris. They’ll take you to Zambezi or Hwange National Park for a fully catered camp in tents featuring bucket showers and flushable toilets. One evening as we sit with our feet in the Zambezi River, its owners Clint and Kelly Robertson ponder what the future will look like for their fledgling company and for Victoria Falls as a whole. The way the community pulled together to fight Covid and reverse the economic collapse it posed has kindled a strong community spirit that built on the natural warmth and resilience the Zimbabwean people already have. As a visitor, just being in the town and supporting the local tradespeople makes you feel that you are also part of the solution. For details of Victoria Falls see: www.wearevictoriafalls.com. For details of Deteema Springs see: https://machabasafaris.com/en/camps-lodges/deteema-springs
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TERRA
TRAVELERS
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NEXT ISSUE: FAR + WIDE
