Terra Travelers Vol 14 Winter 2023

TERRA

TRAVELERS TERRA

Vol. 14 Winter 2023

Winter 2023

The Eternal Mystery; The Statues of Easter Island

The Chef with the James Bond Style: Alexander Ferrar

Iceland's Blue Lagoon

In Search Of Winter

Extraordinary Findings in the World of Travel VACATION

TERRA TRAVELERS

Extrordinary Findings in Travel

PUBLISHER

Richard B Earls

EDITOR

Everett Cody

AUTHORS

Dawson Richards

Hal Peat

Kat Richter

Lesley Stones

Nadia Ali

Steve Winston

Sue King

EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Caroline Keane

MARKETING EXECUTIVES

Randi White

CUSTOMER SERVICE

Erin Von Scherrer

CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION

Travel Research Online

Travel Resolutions for the New Year

“New Year’s Day is the accepted time to make your regular annual good resolutions. Next week you can begin paving hell with them as usual.” ~ Mark

Twain

New Year’s resolutions often are a topic of derision. We treat the annual ritual of making promises to ourselves as a joke, a light-hearted acknowledgement of our inability to keep a commitment. Something about that sits poorly with me.

Promises are important.  We make promises to our business associates, our clients, our community, and our family. We take oaths and we enter into contracts with every intention of honoring them. Inherently, we know promises are not random statements to be taken lightly. Yet, the lowly New Year’s resolution continues to take its annual beating.

Nevertheless, I will continue to make promises to myself, especially when it comes to travel. I am going to promise to travel more carefully, to be more respectful of my companions and the places and people I visit. I want to travel more sustainably.

Here is to hoping for the best of good fortune for you and yours in all your travels and in all of your endeavors.

IN THIS ISSUE

FEATURES

PG.5

60 Second Geography

PG.7

Take a Walk through Lisbon’s most Captivating Neighborhoods

PG.14

The Eternal Mystery: The Statues of Easter Island

PG.20

In Search of Winter Sun

PG.25

PG.31

The Chef With James Bond Style

The Northern Lights6 Tips for Catching a Glimpse

PG.34

Aloha Families

PG.41

Iceland's Blue Lagoon: Tackling the Art of Relaxation

PG.46

Five Small Caribbean Museums With a Bigger Story

60 Second Geography

Tenerife, Canary Islands – Spain’s Tropical Getaway

With almost perfect temperatures the whole year, the Canary Islands are a popular getaway for travelers. Particularly Tenerife, the most populous island in the chain. Picturesque sand beaches stretch along the coasts surrounding cloud-covered mountains, and small villages once lost to volcanic explosions have been born anew. A flourishing culture with art, delectable food, and tasty wine… the Tenerife life is rest and relaxation immersed in naturally stunning views with a healthy helping of adventurous views and perfect beaches.

The capital of Tenerife, Canary Islands is Santa Cruz de Tenerife, commonly shortened to Santa Cruz. Located on the eastern tip of the island, Santa Cruz is the center of culture and population on the island. A stop by Plaza de España, the Canary’s largest public square, shows the local lifestyles and day-to-day activities. Fish and other seafood are a mainstay in the cuisine, as well as mangos, bananas, and avocados. And, like mainland Spain, small tapas are the way to snack on delicious foods throughout the day—after a day of relaxing or adventuring around the island.

If you’re looking for relaxation, Tenerife has 16 beautiful golden and dark sand beaches spread across its volcanic terrain, covering almost 50 miles of its nearly 250-mile coastline. Costa Adeje, along Tenerife’s south coast, is the popular spot for the best golden sand beaches as well as home to some of the best water activities on the island. If you want to try your hand at sea kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, surfing, or just plain snorkeling, this is the place for you.

For the adventurous traveler, Tenerife offers hiking scenery that will amaze. In Tacorante, the subtropical Canarian laurisilva forests are lush blankets along the rising mountains and dipping valleys. Las Cañadas National Park is an entirely different view. Here, the sparseness of desert terrain is dotted with unique plant life. One can also find the site of the

most recent volcanic eruption, Chinyero in 1909. The star of the show is Mt. Teide, rising to 12,188 ft, and even has a cable car to the top (on days when the weather allows).

Outside of the capital, secluded and off-the-track villages sit in exotic locations. Masca is one of these. In the mountains and surrounded by panoramic views of valleys and other mountain tops, it sits 2460 ft above sea level and features small villas layered on the elevation.

Perhaps, a visit to the larger Garachio beside the ocean. It was once the main port of Tenerife but was met with destruction when Montaña Negra erupted and destroyed the harbor and large parts of the city. Today it has risen from the ashes as a colorful, quaint village built around natural saltwater pools created by that old lava flow, and uses the motto ‘Glorious in Adversity.’

Tenerife Island is an all-around getaway where travelers of all types are welcome. From mountainscapes seemingly jutted up from the ocean to museums and local festivals, to lovely villages hidden away—not to mention the proximity to all the other Canary Islands.

Take a Walk through Captivating

Lisbon’s most

Captivating Neighborhoods

By Sue King

Portugal’s capital city, Lisbon, has a wealth of colorful neighbourhoods to explore. The city bursts with history, and its narrow-cobbled streets are a delight to lose yourself in. Known as the City of Seven Hills, locals gather in the squares to shoot the breeze, and trams clatter up and down the hilly streets. Tiny cafes serve traditional dishes such as grilled sardines and Portuguese Codfish. The haunting sound of Fado music drifts from the bars. Exploring the fascinating bairros of the city is a compelling experience.

That’s not to say Lisbon hasn’t got one foot in the future. It has a vibrant LGBTQ scene, and some outstanding contemporary architecture and is making a serious impact in the world of technology. Yet, as I discovered on a recent visit, it’s the hidden backstreets where the city’s soul is most evident. In the past, Lisbon has often been overlooked by Europe’s more celebrated neighbors, such as Rome, Paris, and

Madrid. However, more recently, there has been an explosion of interest in this unique metropolis, and Lisbon is claiming its rightful place amongst the great cities of the world. Although Lisbon is known for its steep streets, the city is easy to traverse using escalators, lifts, and trams. So which neighborhoods should you make tracks to when you visit the City of Seven Hills?

Baixa and Chiado

At the heart of Lisbon, Baixa is home to an abundance of grand plazas and broad avenues. The streets are lined with Neo-Classical architecture and have the highest density of hotels, restaurants, and tourist shops in the city. The whole area was destroyed by a devastating earthquake in 1755 and was rebuilt by the Marques de Pombal. From Baixa, the Santa Justo Lift transports visitors up one of the steepest hills in the city to the elegant district of Chiado. The iron tower has an obser

-vation platform with a panoramic view across the city. Nearby are the spectacular ruins of Convento de Carmo. The church’s roof collapsed during the earthquake on All Saints Day, killing many of the congregation. These days its bare arches are exposed to the sky, and the church doubles up as an archaeological museum.

Mouraria

Back in the day, Mouraria, meaning Moorish Quarter, was Lisbon’s poorest neighborhood and despite some gentrification, it retains a strong community vibe. Situated on a hillside and only accessible on foot, it’s crammed with charming squares along with cute cafes and bars. The steep cobbled streets hide nooks and crannies that are a delight to explore. On Beco das Farinhas, walls are lined with black and white photographic portraits, a touching tribute to the elderly residents who have lived in the neighbourhood. Mouraria has the distinction of being the birthplace of Portugal’s melancholic Fado music.

With its roots in poverty, yearning, and nostalgia, the legendary singer Maria Severa lived in Mouraria and introduced Fado to the upper classes in the 1820s. Her home is now a Fado restaurant.

Alfama

Next to Mouraria, the medieval neighborhood of Alfama is situated adjacent to the riverfront and was once the haunt of dock workers and sailors. A labyrinth of steep cobbled streets are flanked by Fado bars, traditional restaurants and shops selling local crafts. Colorful tilework adorns many of the buildings and a wander through Alfama is like stepping back to another era. It’s worth rising at daybreak to beat the crowds and take an early morning number 28 tram from Martin Moniz Plaza. Passing through Alfama and other neighborhoods, it’s a cheap and fun way to experience the city. Alfama is situated in the shadow of Castelo de Sao Jorge, a Moorish castle that sits atop Lisbon’s highest hill. Don’t worry about having to climb up to it – the castle can conveniently be reached by an escalator.

Belem

Easy to get to by tram, train, bus, or boat, Belem is located a few miles from downtown Lisbon. It was from Belem, situated on the mouth of the River Tagus, that the great seafarers such as Vasco de Gama and Christopher Columbus set forth. The Belem Tower, a 16th century gateway and former defense fortification, acts as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. Nearby, the magnificent Jeronimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is regarded as one of the world’s most beautiful churches. After a visit to the monastery, join the line next door at Pasteis de Belem to

sample Portugal's most delicious pastry, the Pastel de Nata. Concocted by nuns in the 15th century, the pastries are served warm and sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. The lines may be long, but the wait is worth it. A little further along the road, Museo Colecao Berado is an impressive contemporary art museum exhibiting work by such artists as Andy Warhol and Pablo Picasso.

Principe Real

This laidback leafy neighborhood is home to antique stores and chic boutiques in addition to a scattering of

cool cafes and cutting-edge restaurants. Chutnify is one of the latest additions, a hip eatery specializing in Indian street food. Jardim Principle is a lovely park with a gigantic 150-year old cedar tree at its heart, a perfect spot to escape the heat, sit in the shade, and watch the world go by. On Saturdays, an organic market takes place in the park, where farmers set up stalls and sell fresh produce from all over Portugal. Principe Real also happens to be the most LGBTQ-friendly area in the city. During the day, the vibe is chill, but after sunset, the party kicks off, and the bars and clubs pulsate with energy.

Bairro Alto

The picturesque winding streets of Bairro Alto are quiet during the day, but at night the area buzzes with activity. Indeed, this is Lisbon’s premier nightlife hotspot, and the many quirky bars and restaurants draw both locals and tourists. On weekends the action spills out onto the streets, and the atmosphere is high-spirited. Traditionally, the area was a stomping ground for artists and writers, and it has managed to preserve its bohemian ambiance. Bairro Alto has some of the most colorful street art in the city, and it’s worth exploring the narrow streets to seek out vibrant works by both Portuguese and international artists.

The Eternal Mystery: The Statues of Easter Island

By STEVE WINSTON

Here,the winds speak, as do the spirits if you listen for them. Lying 2,300 miles from Chile, the country that governs it, it’s the most remote populated island on Earth. The nearest populated “neighbor” is Pitcairn Island (yes, that Pitcairn Island, of “Mutiny on the Bounty” fame), in the South Pacific – 1,300 miles away.

Easter Island may well be the most mysterious place on Earth. The people of stone, if they could speak, could tell us their mysteries and the mysteries of the people who

built them. But, of course, they cannot speak. They can only watch as generations are born, live, and die in this sparsely populated corner of the world. Sparsely populated? There are some 5,800 residents here, spread out over 63 square miles (for the non-mathematicians among us, that’s less than 100 people per square mile).

Most of them are descendants of the original Polynesian people (Rapa Nui) who first settled here around 300 A.D. and are thought to have built these statues between the 11th and 17th Centuries. Their numbers declined dramatically in the 19th century from European diseases, tribal warfare, and Peruvian slave trading; at one point, the native population was down to 111 souls, and their people were in danger of becoming extinct.

But their ancestors left a legacy of hard work, artistry in stone, and mysterious religious beliefs. Their dedication is today evidenced by 638 Moais, stone statues as high as 65 feet, generally of human forms, more than 300 ceremonial platforms, and thousands of structures related to agriculture, funeral rites, housing, and production, among them a number that were never finished. Most were carved at the quarries of the Ranu Raraku Volcano, filled with relatively-soft rock.

It’s hard to believe that this silent place of incredible vistas and rolling barren hills and tradewinds –now Rapa Nui National Park – was actually called “The Center of the World” by the people who built these statues. The statues were carved into the quarry wall and then transported – somehow! – to different Ahus (ceremonial centers). Work ceased after the tribal wars, and the remaining Moai were left there. Eventually, the elements took their toll, and some are partially buried today.

"Easter Island may well be the most mysterious place on Earth"

Every tribe had its own Ahu, with statues on stone platforms facing the villages, their backs to the sea. These figures represented ancestors, an integral part of the native cultures. These ancestors were sort of “watchmen’ (and women) who would watch over and protect the tribes. The only Moai statues facing the sea are on the eastern part of the island. According to legend, these seven statues represent the navigators that King Hotu Matu’a sent to follow the rising sun in search of lands for his people after a clairvoyant priest dreamed that their homeland would be destroyed.

Easter Island got its name on Easter Sunday, 1722, when a Dutch captain sailed his ship into the harbor, was greeted by the locals, and described the Rapa Nui as “a subtle culture of beautiful women and kind men” (who, of course, had never heard of Easter).

Following the tribal wars, the Rapa Nui people reorganized their society through the cult of the Birdman. Family chiefs would compete in the quest for the egg of the manutara, a migratory bird that nested near the village of Orongo. Competitors had to swim (sometimes among sharks!) to an islet, find the bird’s first egg, and bring it back intact. The winner would be named Tangata Manu (Birdman).

Today, Orongo is a silent sentinel to the past, with 53 stone houses (including some built into the sides of hills), and petroglyphs symbolizing fertility, the Birdman, and the Make Make, the great divinity in Rapa Nui culture.

Most of the hotels, restaurants, and nightspots – as well as about 60% of the residents of Easter Island – are in the town of Hanga Roa, the island’s capital and main harbor. At the Hanga Roa Crafts Market, you can find some excellent examples of revived native arts and crafts and some unique things to bring back home.

You can watch some expert haggling, as well. The Padre Sebastián Englert Anthropological Museum offers some clues to the past, preserving and promoting the Rapa Nui culture. Adjacent is the Tahai Ceremonial Center, a place where important events were apparently celebrated (or mourned), and with a number of distinctive statues.

Easter Island was formed by volcanic eruptions that created some 800 caverns. And these caverns occasionally yield some interesting clues to the past. Researchers have found about 8,000 yards of caverns, apparently used to hide from enemy tribes. Today, however, these caverns are easily accessible and easily explorable.

Interpretations of the statues vary widely. For example, at Ranu Raraku there’s a Moai that appears to be kneeling. Some say it represents a priest, while others think it’s an ancestor guarding the quarry. This spot is home to the biggest Moai on the island. Measuring an astounding 65 feet and lying on its back, this half-carved statue is still attached to the quarry rock; it never received a “final resting place” of its own!

Easter Island, like its statues, petroglyphs, and caverns, is eternal. So are the mysteries that continue to swirl around it.

And will most likely continue to swirl around it for time immemorial.

In Search of Winter Sun

By: Nadia Ali

*Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast, Australia

Brrr, it's getting cold outside! The temperatures are dropping, the days are getting shorter, and keeping warm inside the house has become a top priority. But fortunately for travelers who are seeking a winter vacation, there are destinations where temperatures are well above freezing.  So, where can you go? Well, there are five continents to choose from that can easily fulfill the two essential components of a good winter getaway: sun and beautiful beaches. Here are a few of the best places to lay out while winter's cold passes.

Florida, USA

With Christmas and New Year out of the way, along with a bevy of expenses from presents and partying, finding somewhere affordable closer to home may take your fancy. So, heading somewhere within the USA is one of your best bets. Think of sunshine and the first state to come to mind is the Sunshine State, Florida. It does enjoy a large influx of visitors during the winter months. There's Miami's South Beach and its high-energy nightlife, while West Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale, and Key West, all of which are great for relaxation with a variety of hotel accommodations, can suit any pocket size.

Mexico

Mexico offers color, culture, warmth, and stunning beach resorts for a great winter sun option. Visit Mexico's popular beach resort, Puerto Vallarta, which offers crystal blue water alongside miles of pristine beaches. Visit Los Cabos, which offers romantic sunsets that radiate the sky, and the fantastic whale-watching tours in Todos Santos. There's always the party town of Acapulco or the ancient Mayan ruins of Rivera Maya located on the Yucatán Peninsula.

The Caribbean

Of course, the tropical islands of the Caribbean always conjure up the ideal imagery of long-deserted beaches and relaxing in a swinging hammock under the glorious sun. With more than 7,000 islands to choose from, you may select to visit the Dominican Republic, which has 3.6 million yearly unique visitors. To experience fewer tourists, you may also choose the lesser-known islands of Grenada, Anguilla, or Bequia. The Caribbean booms in the

winter, with planeloads of visitors arriving from around the globe. The typically warm temperatures, Caribbean cuisine, and picture-postcard beaches lure many. Finding out which island to visit takes a bit of research as there are many choices, so look early and book early for the optimal winter sun break. Sun, surf, and sand never look as good as on Australia's Gold Coast. It is made up of 35 beaches and attracts more than 400 million visitors a year. Remember that Australia experiences summer in December and January, so temperatures can soar. Surfer's Coast is one of the most popular beaches, offering volleyball, sunbathing, and it is a surfer's paradise with ideal conditions to catch a wave. There is also a beachfront market three days a week where

Gold Coast, Australia

Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

visitors can stroll through the 120 market stalls featuring handicrafts, jewelry, and a host of other souvenirs. Broadbeach, or "Broadie" to the locals, is a chic area on the coast, arrayed with stylish cafes and shops. The Gold Coast is described as a playground for fun thanks to its plethora of adventurous activities, from swimming with the turtles at Mon Repos, which is home to the largest concentration of nesting marine turtles on the eastern Australian mainland.

Dubai

For those searching for a beach where there are interesting things to do, unique people to meet, and unique activities in which to participate, Dubai is for you. The beaches are busy most of the time with people swimming, eating, and jogging. There is an abundance of high-end accommodations to choose near the amazing shopping malls. It is considered a world-class luxury destination. Some beaches are free to enter, while others have a small entrance fee. Women are allowed to wear bikinis and full suits,

*View of Admiralty Bay with harbor from Hamilton Fort on Bequia Island

but there is no nude bathing. The most popular beach is Jumeirah Beach, with restaurants, splash pools for kids, an open-air cinema, and stunning sand sculptures. The Al Mamzar Beach Park has a number of playgrounds, picnic, and BBQ areas, and Jebel Ali Beach, also known as Kite Beach, is famous for the number of kite surfers that frequent the area.

Thailand

Located in Southeast Asia, Thailand is known as the Land of Smiles. The island of Phuket has one of the largest beaches in Thailand. You simply must visit Hua Hin Beach, which offers a long shore that runs aside the Gulf of Thailand. It is a family-friendly beach that is popular with tourists. The tropical surroundings, cuisine, and culture all contribute to a

memorable vacation. The southern province of Phuket offers the limestone scenery of Phang Nga Bay, which boasts of being a James Bond movie filming site. A visit to Phi Phi Island reveals alluring white sands, crystal clear waters, and contrasting cliffs. Maya Bay, made famous by the movie "The Beach," has reopened with new sustainability goals after being closed for more than three years to allow the marine ecosystem to recover. The capital city of Bangkok is vibrant and exciting, offering top-class restaurants, markets, and magnificent Buddhist temples and palaces. In the north, Chiang Mai still offers up its mystique.

When the weather starts turning cold this year, head inside and look for somewhere to take your winter sun break. You'll enjoy the thrills of adventure or the tranquility of a soothing beach trip without having to look for yet another blanket!

**Concrete buoy featuring the municipal seal of Key West

The chef with the James Bond style

007 Lesley Stones

One of the fabulous things about traveling is the quirky cast of characters you meet: the rogues and the gentlemen, the heroes and the rascals. But it takes a magical place like Antigua in Guatemala to conjure up a character like Alexander Ferrar.

Walk with me through these ancient, cobbled streets past endless churches left in ruins by the earthquakes. Admire the squat little houses painted in jaunty pinks and yellows. Now pass through a wooden doorway into a room with a bar on one side and tables on the other. Wend down a passageway beneath trailing flowers and walls hung with paintings depicting Greek mythology. At a quiet table at the back, two people are deep in conversation. Well, I’m doing most of the listening while Alexander Ferrar does the talking. We’re sitting in Sobremesa, one of the most expensive restaurants in town and almost certainly the best. Ferrar opened the place 14 years ago in a smaller location with just four tables, then moved to this prime site near Antigua’s beautiful main plaza, with a rooftop terrace offering stunning views of the town’s three volcanos.

I’m sipping my second Chardonnay and eating jalepeno banana chicken breast with fried bananas and

tomato chutney. It’s superb, and like everything on the menu, it’s designed to seduce your eyes before your mouth. Little explosions of flavor are tingling my tastebuds, and it’s so delicious that for a moment, I forget to listen to Ferrer’s life story.

Next comes a glorious pumpkin cheesecake with Cognac ice cream and caramelized apple slices. There’s lots going on in every dish, but all are perfectly balanced with flavors that complement, not clash. Ferrar is a chef, a painter, and an author, and when he talks, he doesn’t just tell a story, he spins a tale with different accents and embellishes it with details you know are in the pages he’s already written. “I just published my 22nd book by the grace of God, and

it’s the best thing I’ve ever done, from painting to writing to conjuring up bizarre ice cream flavors for our shop round the corner,” he says. He’s already explained at length – his explanations are always entertaining, occasionally unbelievable, but never brief – that the jalapeno chicken is piquant rather than fiery because cream annuls the sting of chili. If you ever get chili in your eye, wash it out with cream, he advises.

Ferrer grew up as a white kid in the Bahamas, then moved to Florida when corruption hounded his family off the island. Our conversation spans mythology and the Mafia; relationships with temptresses and thugs, how a world-class chef taught him to

cook, and small-time gangsters taught him some more brutal lessons. He explains the intricacies in his paintings and talks of his 22 books, some exposing the sordid truth of crooked politics or human trafficking in exciting adventures that masquerade as fiction.

He sells his books on Amazon, where his fanciful biography says: “Alexander Ferrar is the nom de plume of the Baron Meinchaupf von Richterschmitz, retired supervillain and rightful heir to the throne of Zenda, who has abdicated and retired to La Antigua Guatemala where his restaurant, art gallery, and exotic ice cream company distract him from his dreams of world domination.” Not a boring character then, but a warning to take anything he says with a pinch of

jalapeno, and chocolate brownie flavored salt.

Ferrar came to Guatemala to research a book, with the extra incentive of having fallen in love with a local woman. “I came here on an adventure – I wanted to write my eighth book and investigate human trafficking,” he says. “Then I met a girl who was a con artist, and she seduced me into coming here, so she could take all my money and manipulate me into killing her psychotic ex-boyfriend and take over his cocaine business.”

I choke on my wine and wonder how many of these madcap adventures are true and how much is fantasy dreamt up for his novels or told to enthrall the diners.  Occasionally he credits the grace of God for rescuing him from a life-threatening escapade, so I ask if he’s religious. His James Bond stories take a different twist as he talks about waking up from a coma strapped to a prison bed and suffering from amnesia. I never find out precisely what he’d done to get the life beaten out of him, but he tells me he railed against God for treating him unfairly. Until he realized that if he’d been bad enough to deserve the beating, he’d better clean up his act and thank God for saving him. The next day a brain scan showed that some blood clots that were expected to kill him had miraculously disappeared, he swears.“Everything I do now is an effort to redeem myself for everything I did before,” he says. “For the past 14 years, I’ve been with a very good woman who’s tamed this beast that I was. I don’t even look like a beast anymore, I look like a gentleman, which is why a lot of people find it so hard to believe this interesting person that I was.”

Now he’s more interested in being a pillar of the community, feeding the homeless, and doing acts of kindness that inspire others to follow suit. He and his architect wife opened Sobremesa together, with his wife designing the interior and Ferrar developing the inventive menu. He’d learned a lot from working in a mob restaurant in Florida, but most of his skills were learned from Marco Saenz, a former flatmate during his early vagabond days in Guatemala. Saenz went on to become a worldclass chef, winning awards as the best chef in Latin America and competing twice in the global Bocus d’Or contest in France. “My mentor was the best chef from Mexico to Antarctica. This guy taught me how to cook, and I’m proud to say he’s im-

pressed by my food. He gave me some parting advice and said, ‘everything that I’ve taught you – forget it and learn it for yourself, and don’t be afraid to experiment.’” Experimenting has become his forte, with 147 varieties of ice cream, including dark beer triple chocolate espresso brownie and coffee maple bacon.

The aim with Sobremesa was to create a high-class place using top-quality ingredients sourced locally when possible, with fruits, herbs, and vegetables coming from a local hydroponic farm. “We use the best ingredients, we prepare them slowly, and our food is better for you, so it’s more expensive,” he explains. Cheaper food is so over-processed that it’s slowly poisoning us, he believes. “There’s an obesity epidemic because people are eating crap, and the reason they’re eating crap is that it’s cheap. Bread and milk were staples of the human diet for thousands of years, and all of a sudden, we’re at the pinnacle of human evolution, and we can’t eat anything. Nah! It’s how messed with and how processed a lot of our foods are.”

His menu is designed to encompass his heritage of Italian descent, a Bahaman childhood, and a Guatemalan future. “I wanted to make a menu that reflected that, and I wanted to make something new because everybody that opens an Italian restaurant and cooks traditional dishes is plagiarising – you’re just making stuff somebody else made. We have some of my family’s traditional recipes, but everything else is my invention. The jalapeno banana chicken is the first really bizarre dish that I invented and it’s what put us on the map.”

It was delicious and coupled with Ferrar’s exciting stories and the magical city waiting outside, it created a spellbinding evening.

The Northern Lights:

6 Tips for Catching a Glimpse

By KAT RICHTER

The Northern Lights are one of Iceland’s top tourist attractions, and for good reason. They’ve fascinated peoples from around the world for thousands of years, from the Inuit of Nunivak Island in the Bering Sea to the Laplanders of northern Scandinavia. In Iceland, Viking lore maintained that the dancing Aurora Borealis were the souls of the dead and even though more scientific explanations have since come to light, the Northern Lights are no less fascinating.

Catching the mysterious (and seemingly mischievous) lights can be a challenge, however, even with plenty of tour companies willing to help you out with the logistics. To make the most of your search, follow these six tips.

1. Lower your expectations. The human eye can only process so many images per second, whereas the fancy cameras that capture the Aurora Borealis in all their fiery, fluorescent glory

can process up to ten times as many images. This means that photographs you’ve seen of the northern lights (and the postcards, tote bags, silk scarves and even mouse pads) capture a brilliance that isn’t really visible to the naked eye. This doesn’t mean that you won’t be able to see them, it just means that the colors are going to be much fainter than the souvenirs would have you believe.

2. Book early. Most tour operators will cancel their nightly tours if the weather conditions are unfavorable. They consult a variety of weather reporting services before making the call (including NASA) and check in with their “spies” in the countryside to determine whether or not the sky will be clear enough to view the northern lights. As such, it is best to schedule your tour for the first day of your trip, this way if it gets canceled, you’ll still have a few other chances. When I traveled to Iceland last March, my tour was canceled two days in a row but I

finally got a chance to go on my second to last night in the country.

3. Be patient. Catching the northern lights has nothing to do with speed or accuracy (you’re not tornado hunting, after all). Instead, it’s all about patience. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to wait in the Icelandic countryside at a guesthouse like Hotel Vatnsholt in Selfoss, which has a large cafeteria that serves hot drinks and waffles late into the night. Grab a drink and pile your freshly made waffle with Icelandic jams, honey, whipped cream, or Nutella at the toppings bar. Then, make some new friends and settle in because it’s going to be a while.

4. Bundle up. Even if you find yourself at a guesthouse like Hotel Vatnsholt, you’re still going to have to do a lot of waiting around in the cold. (You have to leave the waffle bar, after all, in order to actually see the night sky.) The weather can turn on a moment’s notice in Iceland so in addition to the obvious tip of dressing in layers, make sure you’ve got warm, waterproof footwear on as well. Rural Iceland can be very wet, cold, and muddy so if you need an excuse to purchase a pair of Icelandic wool socks, this is it. I’d also recommend bringing a blanket so you can sit down on the ground while you wait.

5. Learn how to use your camera. Even though you’ll have plenty of time to sit around, there is an element of “hurry up and wait” when it comes to capturing the Aurora Borealis. In other words, now is not the time to start experimenting with the nighttime settings on your camera, because by the time you figure it out, the lights will have shifted or even faded away. Don’t even bother trying to catch them on your iPhone (unless you’ve downloaded an app to do so beforehand), especially as the light from your screen will ruin the experience for everyone nearby. If you’re hoping to get a good shot, you’ll need a decent camera and a tripod, so plan accordingly.

6. Be flexible. While there is no guarantee that you’ll be able to see the northern lights, Gray Line offers passengers a second chance for free if their tour failed to yield a sighting (you just have to call their office by noon the next day to put in a claim). The free tour is valid for up to two years so even if you have to fly out the next day, you can plan for a return trip in the future. Also, remember that your tour guides and bus drivers have your best interests at heart, so if they ask to get back on the bus in order to try out a better viewing spot due to a change in the weather, or suggest staying an hour later for a better view, listen to them. They know Iceland better than you do.

Families

Aloha Families

e. Dawson Richards

Theremay be no more diverse destination on the planet than Hawaii. Not only is the terrain amazingly varied – deserts, beaches and lush rainforests, mountains and oceans, deep valleys, and soaring volcanoes – but the climates there range from sub-arctic to tropical. The available activities are almost without end. The culture is a mix of Polynesian, Asian, European, and American. But perhaps the most varied aspect of the Islands is the way that this tremendous confluence appeals to so many different types of people – young, old, active, and beach lovers, there is something for everyone in Hawaii. And all of this means one thing above all others – Hawaii is the world’s greatest family destination.

What type of activities might a family find in Hawaii? Let’s first give due respect to the Aloha culture. Deep within the roots of Hawaii’s own way of being, family is an important concept. Elders are respected, and

it is not unusual to find multi-generational families under the same roof. Respect for the land and for the Hawaiian culture is inherent to the native population. For these reasons and more, families find a warm welcome from the natives, and the Islands reflect back a family culture.

There is no shortage of possibilities in Hawaii. There is beach time and golf, pools and beaches, biking, swimming, fishing, sailing, surfing hula, dude ranches, shopping, museums, whale watching, volcanoes, eco-tours, and kayaking. Did I mention shopping and some of the world’s finest restaurants?

Above all, Hawaii invites the visitor out of doors. Grandparents, parents, and children alike will all have their own ways of enjoying the natural beauty and outdoor life of the Islands. Unlike destinations that confine visitors to privileged enclaves, Hawaii

enourages meaningful encounters with the people who give the land its human character. Hawaii’s culture invites the family to engage it on a personal level: to attend a luau, dance the hula, experience the Polynesian way of life, and know Aloha from the moment the first lei is draped around necks on arrival.

Of course, islands are surrounded by water, and Hawaii’s beaches have no equal. Surfing lessons

for the entire family are available from professional surf instructors. Or, lay on the beach with kids, parents, and Hawaii grandparents, all taking in the surf and waters on the sand of nearly every color from darkest black to fine white powder. The water culture encompasses not only surfing but scuba, snorkeling, and even gentle exploration of amazing tidal pools, a favorite activity of visitors of every age. Kayaks are available to explore on either professional or self–guided tours.

For the truly adventuresome, windsurfing and zip lines are very popular.

Hiking is a more rigorous activity, but there are routes for every level of ability, from gentle walks to rugged mountain trails. Of course, where else can a visitor get up close and personal with a volcano? Hawaii is the only destination that will be larger when you leave than it was when you arrived. Each year the active volcano on the Big

Island adds a few square miles of new land to Hawaii. Helicopters fly over still-active volcanoes, and park rangers tour families to view one of nature’s most awesome forces from a safe vantage point.

You might not know that the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy is located on a snowcapped mountain on the Big Island. Families can star gaze at night, and scientists and workers at

the Onizuka Center lead discussions and an swer questions for visiting families.

Most of the resorts on the Islands offer fam ily programs. Some organized activities will involve the entire family, while others will be offered to younger children. The resorts can offer most activities right from their concierge desks, but the smart traveler will arrange key activities with their travel agent prior to arrival to ensure availability.

Hawaii offers an experience so distinct from any other that many speak of the Islands as

Iceland’s Blue Lagoon: Tackling the Art of Relaxation

By KAT RICHTER

Ifyou don’t know any better, Iceland may seem like little more than a layover on the way the mainland Europe. But the rewards are great for those who dare to venture beyond Reykjavik’s Keflavik airport, even if only for a few hours. The small island nation’s tourism industry is in high gear—ready for the onslaught of eco-tourists and adrenaline junkies who have already made landfall— but the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa just a short 20-minute trip from the airport, has it down to a science.

Billed as an “oasis of relaxation,” the Blue Lagoon is the perfect start to any trip, whether you’ve already reached your final destination or are just killing time between flights. Unlike Iceland’s renowned geysers, however, there’s nothing truly “natural” about this modern-day wonder. The lagoon formed in 1976 thanks to a nearby geothermal plant. Locals began to bathe in the warm water and applied silica mud directly to their skin, which later proved an effective remedy for psoriasis.

The spa remains dedicated to healing, and throughout the 1980s and 90s, the Blue Lagoon opened its baths to the public, built a clinic for psoriasis patients, and developed a line of luxurious skin care products (hint hint: these make great souvenirs). The Blue Lagoon has even opened its doors to photo shoots for newly married couples, but most visitors come to the spa simply to relax.

In order to make take advantage of all that the Blue Lagoon has to offer, you’ll want to book your visit as far in advance as possible. There are several packages available, ranging from the bare bones “Standard Entrance Ticket,” which includes admission (and as much silica as you care to scrape out of the lagoon) to the slightly less Spartan “Comfort” which includes a towel, a drink from one of the lagoon’s swim-up bars and algae mask. Tickets start at €40 and €55, respectively, in the off-season, but prices jump to €50 and €65 during the “summer” which runs from June through August. Prices are also affected by the time of day (yes, you must book for a specific slot) and how far in advance you purchase your entrance ticket.

For those looking to splurge, Premium and Luxury passes come with bathrobes, slippers, and sparkling wine at Lava, the spa's on-site restaurant. There are also plenty of add-ons available, from personal massages (administered by wetsuit-wearing masseuses right in the lagoon) to spa products and entrance to an exclusive lounge.

Once you’re in, you’ll make your way to a locker room, where you can stow your valuables. (There is also an on-site luggage storage facility at the entrance to the Lagoon, so you can stow your suitcases if you’re coming directly from the airport). Community pools are a mainstay throughout Iceland, and just about every neighborhood in Reykjavik boasts its own. As such, Icelanders are used to the “rules of the road” when it comes to all things aquatic, but some forms of local spa etiquette may baffle foreigners. For example, patrons are expected to shower naked before entering the spa.

If you have long hair, you’ll want to add a protective layer of conditioner (provided for free in the locker room showers) before entering the silica-rich waters, and if you have an iPhone or tablet, be sure to purchase a waterproof case if you plan to take it into the waters with you. Enjoy a drink from the swim-up bar, and be sure to explore the entire lagoon: there are saunas, bars, lounge chairs overlooking the lagoon, silica mud mask stations, and waterfalls that make for a great shoulder massage after a transatlantic flight.

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Small Caribbean Museums with a Bigger Story

By HAL PEAT

From the Bahamas to the southeastern points of the Caribbean, small museums dedicated to special interests, people or significant events can become an engaging stop even on a busy itinerary. If your own interests at home include one of these categories, then consider including one of these noteworthy, smaller museums during your own local time in the destination. While some are off the beaten track or a drive out of town, others just as often are near hotel hubs or ports. Either way, these smaller-size repositories of the past can also serve as a window into areas of the wider culture or history.

Nassau, Bahamas: The Pirates Museum

While the exploits of legendary Caribbean pirates enjoy their share of attention on the big and small screens, this interactive encounter in the Bahamian capital of Nassau includes much about their escapades and general lifestyle to also provide some perspective of the daily world in this region during the Golden Age of piracy. The Pirates Museum is located on a Nassau side street just minutes walk from the busier main downtown Bay Street. It relies on a variety of both detailed displays recreating the onboard environment of the pirate frigates and theatrical documentary that narrates the times and misadventures of some of the most notorious pirates such as Blackbeard, Calico Jack or Anne Bonney. Along the way, the visitor can absorb some detail about the colonial period here – the local life onshore and how the pirates used these islands as a base for their offshore exploits.

It wasn’t all high adventure and sudden riches for those involved in pirateering. Life was in fact brutal at sea and while the ordinary crew might have moments to carouse on land, the risks that came with being either the bucca-

-neer-in-chief or one of his crew were often lethal – involving capture or death, the latter often preferable. How they operated, survived and interacted in the broader canvas of the colonial world remains a fascinating portal into this period.

Kingston, Jamaica: Fort Charles Museum

Originally constructed to guard against possible attacks by their Spanish rivals in the Caribbean, the English left a legacy behind them within Fort Charles that speaks about fortification, pirates, the daily life within a seventeenth century fort and the aftermath of natural disaster. Located on the narrow isthmus that pro-

The Pirates Museum, Bahamas – vivid recreations piratical times and figures. Credit: Hal Peat

fort itself and the so-called Giddy House, plus the raised platform known as Nelson’s Quarterdeck, the Fort Charles Museum functions nowadays to curate a spectrum of artifacts and objects reflecting the fort’s earliest existence. These connect both to its military dimension, along with daily life within wider Port Royal up until the cataclysm of the 1692 earthquake, many drawn up from the depths of the sunken town. Items range from bottles and coins of the period to cannonballs and tools used on the vessels of the time. Much of these displays within the museum provide a snapshot in time dredged up from the everyday world of Port Royal that was suddenly submerged on a fateful day long ago.

English Harbour, Antigua: The Dockyard Museum

-jects across from Kingston’s present-day harbor, Fort Charles itself was constructed in 1655 after the English invaded and captured Jamaica from the Spanish. Subsequently, it was never the Spanish who became the most dangerous menace that the fort area would face but instead a catastrophe in the form of the huge earthquake of 1692 that saw the nearby landscape change forever with the sinking of the town of Port Royal.

Today, evidence both natural and human of that cataclysmic event is on display visible both inside and outside the rooms of the Fort Charles Museum. In fact, thanks to the museum’s internal courtyard location among other historic structures ranging from the wider

Located within a historic district of ocean inlets bordered by the original buildings of the Nelson’s Dockyard National Park on Antigua, the Dockyard Museum is memorable and intriguing, giving you the impression of entering a grand residence and then displaying artifacts and objects that reveal much about the immediate surroundings and then even more widely across Antigua from colonial period to contemporary times.

*The Dockyard Museum, Antigua – home to colonial naval artifacts in English Harbour. Credit: Hal Peat

TheDockyard Museum was built in 1855 and originally served as officers’ quarters in the Royal Navy Dockyard, when it derived its original name of the Admiral’s House. Restored in the 1970s, the building next served as offices for the island’s National Parks before opening its doors as a museum in 1997. Today the museum presents the shipbuilding and naval history of Nelson’s Dockyard alongside exhibits that highlight past and current archaeological and historical research in Antigua. Some items on display are tools or equipment uncovered during the Dockyard’s restoration, along with which are some detailed small-scale replicas and photos of old warships and frigates. It all ties in well with the nearby restored premises within the English Harbour district that include the Admiral’s Inn and surrounding restored buildings that date back to the original naval period. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, Nelson’s Dockyard is well-served in the archival and artifactual wealth of its Museum, which in turn provides a wider picture of the naval significance of Antigua itself down through the centuries and even the earliest pre-colonial life of the island.

Trois Ilets, Martinique: Musée de la Pagerie (La Pagerie Museum)

The personal life and details of a historic figure collected in a museum setting can also lend insights into the wider story of the society of their times. Such is the case with the early childhood home of the woman who became Napoleon Bonaparte’s first wife and known to the world as Empress Josephine of the French. The setting and artifacts are intimate and familial, but there are items that point to Josephine’s journey and significance within and beyond Martinique.

The Musée de la Pagerie is located just outside the southern town of Les Trois Ilets, and the buildings housing the museum were originally the family island home of the Tascher de la Pagerie family whose best-known member was Josephine. Born and growing up here at this one-time sugar estate, the present-day museum’s furnishings and artifacts recreate some of the detail of daily life here that she would have

**Musee De La Pagerie, Martinique

experienced before leaving forever at age 16 for the chapters of her life that brought her to the world’s attention. Much of the display of period furnishings is in the stone building that was originally the kitchens of the main house destroyed later by fire. Josephine’s influence on wider island events also emerges over in the capital of Fort-de-France’s beautiful La Savane park, where you also come across a headless statue of her – a possible reaction to the local belief that she was an important influence in Napoleon’s decision to reintroduce slavery onto the island in 1802. Whatever the case, Josephine’s early origins and the personal items that link to her second and famous marriage to the Emperor of the French remain a memorable visual treat in this quiet corner of Trois Ilets.

Cartagena – Colombia: Museo Histórico de Cartagena

The name explains everything immediately about the subject matter of this small museum in Colombia’s southern Caribbean coastal city of Cartagena, but the revelation of tragic events in local history is what makes the visit here so

both moving and memorable. The Museum is located within the buildings that were originally the city’s Casa de Inquicion – literally, the spot where during a sustained period between the seventeenth into the early nineteenth century, trials and grisly executions were held of those accused and condemned for heresy.

Shedding insight on a dark period in the city’s colonial era, the museum’s brilliance lies in its variety of documentation and artifact, and also in how it uses the original spaces for the reinvented purpose of celebrating inventiveness, artistic diversity and the spirit of tolerance. The brilliance of the Museo Histórico de Cartagena lies in its capacity to confront the motives and mindset of a particular historic period that affected the wider life of this city and its colonial structure, while also providing a space that allows for creative expression and humanity reflected in such exhibits within the Museo’s broader purpose. The visitor can observe much here of the colonial past and its darker sides while imbibing the city’s affirmative embrace of modern-day art and artists in the internal courtyards and gallery spaces.

Museo Histórico de Cartagena, Colombia – a powerful insight into a dark period of inquisition in 17th century Cartagena. Credit: Hal Peat

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