As one travels from the western side of the park to its opposite end, the colour of the soil changes from shades of warm ochre to stark white halfway along the route, and to greyish-red further east. Under a cesious sky lies an expanse of powder white sands that have remained from the ancient lake. All along the meandering roads and at the waterholes there is the opportunity to see the fauna the park is famous for. The sparse vegetation makes it easy to spot animals, so you’re never at a loss for something to see – which is perhaps why they call Etosha the safari for beginners. And yet, even with very few spaces to hide, a pride of lions can be so perfectly camouflaged in the shade that only the most eagle-eyed visitors will spot them. Is it a branch? Is it an anthill? No, that’s a male lion taking a catnap. Certain kinds of travellers find joy in being able to tick off their sightings from a list. Perhaps that is why the Big Five will always be popular. The four most majestic (in my mind) of the Big Five are abundant in Etosha – lion, leopard, rhino and elephant (we’ll leave the African buffalo for other parks). Substitute the buffalo with the giraffe and we have a deal. Etosha has the Big Four in spades. During my most recent visit we saw one or more lions almost every day. On our way
Etosha Pan is the result of a sediment-filled, ancient lakebed whose modern features are formed by the scouring action of wind erosion - Hu Berry
out of the park we had the unbelievable good luck to drive slowly alongside a stunning leopard as it sauntered next to the road. But it wasn’t the only memorable moment. Watching a lone elephant bull up close satiating its thirst at the Olifantsrus waterhole, catching every detail on its aged face, the short, thick hair that covers its trunk; those long, dark lashes; the adept way he slurps litres of water up his trunk and deftly, almost daintily, pours it into his mouth, while next to him a White Heron, tiny by comparison, nervously tip-toes out of the way. Yes, we will leave the African buffalo for other parks.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Etosha is a great all-year destination. Namibia’s low rainfall means that sunny days are the rule. However, for the best game-spotting, plan your visit for the winter months, when water is scarce and most of the animals congregate around the waterholes. Alternatively, the summer months are a foray into the “Etosha nursery” with game giving birth to their newest herd members, younglings everywhere.