| THE PEOPLE OF NAMIBIA |
COMMUNITY-BASED TOURISM
For those visiting Purros along the Hoarusib River, the Marienfluss, the Hartmann Valley surroundings, Opuwo, and Epupa Falls via Sesfontein, there are several community campsites in the area. Perched on a hill surrounded by mountains with a seasonal river running below, the Khowarib Campsite, 33 km south of Sesfontein, is a wellpositioned and attractive community facility consisting of four private sites. Each has a lapa area with a basin (and tap) and a railwaysleeper counter top. Guided visits to the Anmire Traditional Damara Village and the Bushman paintings are offered. If you’re well prepared and set on travelling the difficult terrain of Van Zyl’s Pass into the Marienfluss, then Van Zyl’s Pass Campsite provides a good stopover. The camp is situated 20 km before the pass, near the village of Otjihende. Take note that this route should only be undertaken by those experienced in four-wheel driving. At the Epupa Falls Campsite, spread out under makalani palms, water rushes toward the falls and fine mist sprays into the air. The campsite is within walking distance from the falls. The Kanamub Mountain Camp, 24 km from Sesfontein en route to Purros, is positioned against a mountain between huge granite-gneiss boulders with a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside. It is situated under a large rocky overhang, with a tap, kitchen counter and shower built into a boulder alcove of rock walls, and a donkey boiler providing hot water. For those driving on to Purros, a fourwheel drive vehicle is necessary for the sandy roads. The Puros Campsite is positioned on the banks of the Hoarusib River, home to the desert-adapted elephants, which often wander through the campsite. Six sites are positioned under large camelthorn trees, each with its own private ablution block with hot water and flush toilets. Guided trips to a nearby Himba demonstration village and the surrounding areas are offered. Close to Puros Campsite is the Puros Bush Lodge, which offers
accommodation to travellers who do not want to camp. This is a self-catering lodge with en-suite accommodation in six twinbedded rooms. A family room with twin beds and a bunk bed is also available. At the Puros Traditional Village striking Himba women of varying ages dressed in traditional attire and covered in red ochre are willing to show you the various Himba rituals, offering snippets of interesting Himba information and intriguing demonstrations. A shop stocked with Himba crafts sells Himba jewellery, makalani palm kernels carved into key rings, baskets, beadwork and bracelets. Situated approximately 200 km from Opuwo, the Marble Campsite is an attractive and well-equipped facility that is a veritable oasis on the rough roads of the area. Its five sites all have their own kitchen counter and barbecue area, and share a stylish communal ablution block made of local stone and thatch. Two hiking trails routed around the camp and a visit to a Himba village offer alternatives to resting and relaxing. A joint venture between the Orumpembe Conservancy and local entrepreneur and artist, Trevor Nott, House on the Hill is a selfcatering stone cottage situated on the hill adjacent to the Marble Campsite. Conservancy Safaris – Namibia (CSN) enables the discerning traveller to Namibia to make a real difference by improving the future of five remote communities which collectively own the local company and which receive all profits. Thus the CS-N is helping to ensure a future for wildlife in some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world. Nearly 2 000 Himba and Herero people in the far north-western Kunene Region benefit from these operations through their membership in five conservancies – Marienfluss, Orupembe, Santitatas, Okonjombo and Puros. A further jewel in the crown is Etambura Camp. Co-owned by CS-N and the Orupembe Conservancy and set on a hilltop with magnificent 360-degree views, the camp has five tented units, each with its own en-suite bathroom and private deck area. www.kcs-namibia.com.na
necklaces and arm and leg bracelets made from ostrich eggshell beads, grass, cloth and copper. Iron-oxide powder with its shiny effect is worn like western glitter, while ochre mixed with fat is rubbed into the skin to give it a warm terracotta glow. The large white shell worn on the breast by Himba (as well as Owambo and Herero) women is called the ohumba. When travelling through Namibia’s rural Kunene Region, an especially visible form of folk art is the hand-carved makalani palm nut, referred to as vegetable ivory. Carvers transform the kernel into distinctive and decorative buttons, which are sold as simple ornaments or featured in formal and informal jewellery, and in functional items such as key rings and bottle openers. The carved nuts usually depict animals – elephant, rhino, giraffe, gemsbok and springbok – or topical themes such as the Namibian flag and domestic scenes.
BELOW
A Himba woman wearing adornments made from iron and shell beads.
HIMBA CRAFTS
Traditional jewellery In Namibia, as in other countries, the tradition of adorning the body goes back thousands of years. Today it is primarily the Himba who still adorn themselves with traditional jewellery. Both men and women wear large numbers of
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PAUL VAN SCALKWYK
members from 85 registered villages in the region. HIPO is an organisation that works towards helping indigenous people in Namibia and Angola to retain their culture and values, meet the challenges of contemporary society and improve their living conditions. The festival is an annual event.
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