Travelireland Volume 4 Issue 42

Travelireland Volume 4 Issue 42 October 2017

Miss Saigon at Bord Gais Energy Theatre

Taste buds will tingle at Savour Kilkenny Pat Liddy on

Gothic Dublin

magazine Richard Harris

International Film Festival

EPIC

Ireland

Find your Inner Child at Baboro International Arts Festival

Celebrating Sixty years of Culture it’s the Dublin Theatre Festival

CONTENTS

4 Welcome To Leinster 6 Miss Saigon 8 EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum 10 Theatre 12 Gothic Dublin

14 Dublin Theatre Festival 16 Shopping 18 Explore Leinster 19 Leinster Bars 20 Leinster Restaurants 22 Baboró International Arts Festival for Children 24 Welcome to Munster 26 Gallery Zozimus 28 Richard Harris Film Festival 30 Explore Munster 31 Munster Bars 32 Munster Restaurants 34 Waterford Crystal 36 Welcome to Connaught 38 Connaught Bars 39 Connaught Restaurants 40 The Irish Manuscripts Commission 41 Explore Connaught 42 Welcome to Ulster 43 Ulster Bars 44 Ulster Restaurants 45 Westport House 46 Savour Kilkenny 48 Explore Ulster 49 Belfast Hidden Tours 50 Great Irish Writers

Ellen Media Communications Ltd Father Matthew Hall Second Floor, 131 Church St, Dublin 7.

Tel: 01 561 2431 / 087 911 3732 www.travelirelandmagazine.com Travel Ireland Magazine @traveliremag

Willkommen-Bienvenida-Bienvenue-Welcome! To our October issue.

Whether this is your first time visiting our shores or you are returning once again to trace the steps of your distant ancestors, here at Travel Ireland we hope in some small way to be able to gently guide you as you plan your stay here. This month sees a host of great shows and events all across the country. The spectacular Miss Saigon comes to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre, while Dublin Theatre Festival lights up the city with creative energy. Celebrate one of Ireland’s greatest actors at the Richard Harris Film Festival in Limerick or delve into history at the Irish Manuscripts Commission. Whatever you end up doing, we at Travel Ireland wish you a hefty and heartfelt Céad míle fáilte and hope you enjoy your stay.

Taisteal sásta (Happy Travels)

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Published by Ellen Media Communications Ltd Publisher John Carey Features Writer Mark O’Brien Design & Art Direction Outburst Design Advertising John Carey (john@ellenmediacom.ie, 01 561 2431, 087 911 3732) Contributors: Pat Liddy, Angeline Le Mercier, Adam Patterson Photography, John McCurdy, Paula Moore, Patrick O’ , Stephen Walker, Ivan Donoghue, Joleen Cronin, Richard Eibrand, Padraig O’Donnell, Michael McLaughlin.

We wish to record our thanks to Michael Bates, Failte Ireland, The Office of Public Works and the National Monuments Service, Dept of Arts, Heritage and the Gaeltacht, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board and the National Trust-Giants Causeway (NI) for their help and guidance in the production of this edition.

We would also like to thank Paddy Donovan, Ed Reeve, Carr Cotter and Naessens, jonandlauren.wordpress.com and 10bestpubsingalway.wordpress.com for the use of their images.

Ellen Media Communications Limited. All rights reserved. Ellen Media Communications Limited does not accept responsibility for any advertising content. All unsolicited manuscripts will not be accepted or returned. No material may be used in whole or in part without the publishers prior consent. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all the events information or recommendations on this site, no responsibility will be accepted by Ellen Media Communications Ltd, its editorial team, designers, authors or agents acting on their behalf for alterations, errors or omissions which may occur.

OCTOBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Leinster - The East Coast Province Leinster is the most easterly of the four provinces of Ireland, and is the most populated with the city of Dublin at its heart. The province is made up of counties Dublin, Louth, Meath, Carlow, Kildare, Wicklow, Laois, Offaly, Longford, Westmeath, Kilkenny and Wexford. These counties have a host of historic monuments, a picture perfect coastline and cities and villages thronged with things to do and see.

County Dublin is the home to the capital city. Dublin is the administrative, cultural, and economic capital of the country. It is one of the most exciting places to visit with a thriving arts, musical and theatrical nightlife.

All roads lead to Saint Stephen’s Green in the very centre of the city. You’ll find it at the top of Grafton Street, with Trinity College down at the other end. And just around the corner you can stroll around the cultural quarter of Temple Bar between Dame Street and the river that, famously, divides the North and the South of the city.

If you want to escape to the country without

GPO, Dublin actually leaving the city, then you can head north to Howth Head, or south to the charming and culturally vibrant villages of Dalkey and Killiney. Half an hour on the DART train will take you from the centre of the city to what feels like the heart of the country.

County Meath formerly known as the Royal County is the ancient seat of the High Kings of Ireland who were based around the Hill of Tara. Meath is also one of the most archaeologically important counties on the island with its Neolithic sites at Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. These ancient religious sites (built before the Pyramids) have been excavated and restored in recent years making them some of the busiest visitors’ attractions in the country. The sites are all only less than an hour’s drive out of Dublin and are accessible

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Stephen’s Green Park through the Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre.

The county also features the site of the Battle of the Boyne which was one of the great battles fought on Irish soil. For horse racing lovers, Meath has the wonderful Fairyhouse Racecourse, and there is also summertime horse racing on Laytown Beach.

County Wicklow has several world famous sites and attractions, from the Glendalough monastic settlement with its Abbey and Round Tower, to the fabulous Powerscourt House and Gardens. The Wicklow Hills rising majestically over the county and the seaside town of Bray are just some of its many attractions.

Offaly is situated in the centre of Ireland.

Nestling between the Shannon River to the West and the Slieve Bloom Mountains to the East, Offaly is one of the lowest lying counties in the country. Any visitor should travel along the Royal Canal where one can experience a peace and tranquillity little known in our busy world.

Kildare is the home of the National Stud, Newbridge Silverware and Maynooth College.

Couple all these with Mondello Park motor racing, Naas horse racing course and Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park and there is something for everyone.

Westmeath is a county which has at its heart the town of Athlone which is exactly situated in the middle of Ireland. It is home to the RTÉ

St Kevin’s Church, Glendalough All-Ireland Drama Festival, the oldest pub in Ireland and some of the finest golfing, fishing and health spas on offer throughout the land.

Louth is known as “the wee county” as it is the

smallest county in Ireland but what it lacks in land mass it makes up for in places to see. It is the home of the Cooley Mountains, the Boyne river which is famous for its salmon fishing and the beautiful Carlingford area. If it is a leisurely drive you seek Louth is the place to go. Carlow is where you will find three of Ireland’s key national walking routes – the South Leinster, the Barrow and the Wicklow Ways. Carlow is blessed with hundreds of miles of excellent and varied walking trails, and hosts a wonderful arts festival every June.

Laois is where you can try your hand at a

Round Tower, Glendalough range of activities from paintballing in the Stradbally Woods to western-style riding at Fossey Mountain, bowls at the only indoor bowls stadium in the Republic or tie a fly at the unique Irish Fly-fishing and Game shooting Museum.

Kilkenny City was voted Ireland’s Top Tourism Town for 2013 by Failte Ireland which is Ireland’s main tourism body. It was voted Cleanest Town in Ireland at end of 2013 by Irish Business Against Litter (IBAL), and has also been voted 9th friendliest city in the world by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. The city was in addition voted Most Friendliest City in Europe. Couple all these awards with a huge countywide cultural heritage trail and it is a must see destination for any visitor.

Longford is situated in the basin of the River Shannon and the upper catchment area of the River Erne. It is ideally located in the heart of the Lakelands region within easy reach of many stunning and historic tourist attractions. The county’s accessibility to many of Irelands main towns and cities make it a prime location as a holiday base.

Finally, Wexford is famous for its glorious sandy coastline and together with County Waterford is known as ‘The Sunny South East’. You can also visit the oldest lighthouse in Europe which stands on the Hook Peninsula.

So now you know, whether you are a family group, a couple, or a single traveller, there is something for everyone in Leinster!

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81 - 82 TALBOT STREET, DUBLIN 2 |TEL: 01 704 0126 |EMAIL: INFO@LEBONCRUBEEN.IE |WWW. LEBONCRUBEEN.IE

Celtic Lodge Guesthouse

In the Heart of Dublin City Centre

Celtic Lodge is located on Talbot Street in Dublin City Centre.

Recently refurbished throughout, the rooms are decorated in modern colours and fabrics with luxurious touches, to make your stay in Dublin as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

The Celtic Lodge Guesthouse is located just 5 minutes walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin. Popular Dublin attractions such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery are also close by. Celtic Lodge offers quality Dublin accommodation at great rates and is an ideal choice for your stay in Dublin.

81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 . Tel: 01 878 8810 Email: info@celticlodge.ie www.celticlodge.ie

Dublin’s Finest Traditional Irish Pub Traditional Irish Music Every evening from 9pm. Come on in for a pint and the craic!

Come along and experience the authentic atmosphere found only at The Celt Bar, the traditional Irish pub in Dublin that’s as full of life as it always has been. Friendly faces, a classic bar menu, the finest selection of Irish whiskey’s, beers, ales and stouts, ciders and not to mention the goodness of real Guinness.

www.thecelt.ie

The Celt Bar 81-82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Miss Saigon

at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre The recent smash hit West End production of Miss Saigon comes to the Bord Gais Energy Theatre this month, running from Wednesday 4 October to Saturday 18 November. Since its London premiere in 1989, Cameron Mackintosh's production of Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schönberg's epic musical Miss Saigon has become one of the most successful musicals in history and was previously staged at the Point Depot in Dublin in 2002.

The original Broadway production of Miss Saigon opened on April 11, 1991 with what was the largest advance sale in Broadway history ($37 million). The show went on to play for nearly ten years and 4,063 performances seen by more than 5.9 million people. Miss Saigon has been performed in 28 countries, over 300 cities in 15 different languages, has won over 40 awards including 2 Olivier Awards, 3 Tony Awards, and 4 Drama Desk Awards and been seen by over 35 million people worldwide.

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Cameron Mackintosh said, "It's hard to believe that it has been over 25 years since Miss Saigon first opened, but if anything, the tragic love story of the show has become even more relevant today. This new production, directed by Laurence Connor, takes a grittier, more realistic approach than the original production while still delivering the power and epic sweep of Boublil and Schönberg's tremendous score. Of all my shows, Miss Saigon is the one that I have received the most requests from the public to bring back.”

The new London production of Miss Saigon opened in May 2014 to record-breaking advance sales and critical acclaim. Dominic Cavendish in The Daily Telegraph wrote, "This thrilling new production spills out beyond the theatre and speaks directly to the times we live in". The show swept the board at the 2015 Whatsonstage.com awards winning a record breaking nine awards, the most awards ever won by a single show in the 15-year history of the awards including Best

West End Show and Best Revival of a Musical.

Miss Saigon tells the story of young bar girl named Kim, orphaned by war, who falls in love with Chris, an American GI - but their lives are torn apart by the fall of Saigon.

Miss Saigon features music by ClaudeMichel Schönberg with lyrics by Richard Maltby Jr. and Alain Boublil, adapted from original French lyrics by Alain Boublil, with additional lyrics by Michael Mahler. The new production is directed by Laurence Connor with musical staging by Bob Avian and additional choreography

by Geoffrey Garratt.

Production design is by Totie Driver and Matt Kinley based on an original concept by Adrian

Vaux; costume design by Andreane Neofitou; lighting design by Bruno Poet; sound design by Mick Potter; and orchestrations by William David Brohn.

Now this incredible show comes to Dublin and it’s one that fans of musical theatre really can’t afford to miss. The show’s run also includes an ISL (Irish Sign Language) interpreted performance of Miss Saigon which will take place on Tuesday 7 November at 7.30pm. An ISL interpreter will stand on the stage and give a sign interpretation of the text sung or spoken by the actors and singers on the stage.

So make sure you book your tickets early for what is guaranteed to be an epic evening’s entertainment as Miss Saigon lands in Dublin at the Bord Gais Energy Theatre. http://bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

OCTOBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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epic

The Irish Emigration Museum

E

PIC The Irish Emigration Museum is a state-ofthe-art interactive experience located in the beautiful vaults of CHQ in Dublin’s Docklands.

Over the centuries, some 10 million people have left the island of Ireland. At EPIC you can step through 20 themed galleries to find out why people left, see how they influenced the world they found, and experience the connection between their descendants and Ireland today. Immerse yourself in the stories of some of the most remarkable tales of sacrifice, endurance, adventure, and discovery the world has ever known.

EPIC is rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor and is among the top 10 museums in Dublin. Guests of all ages enjoy the interactive nature of the museum, with kids particularly enjoying stamping the souvenir passport that you get upon entry. EPIC offers a deep dive into Irish history, culture and people and some guests have even claimed that EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum was the best museum that they have ever visited!

The Irish Family History Centre is also located at EPIC offering a new and exciting way to search for your Irish ancestors and to discover your unique family story.

EPIC is open daily from 10:00 - 17:00 (last admission). A visit takes approximately 90 minutes.

EPIC is self-guided with experienced staff available to answer any questions. Guided tours are available at 11am and 2pm. Audio guides are available in English, German, French, Italian and Spanish for an additional â‚Ź1. Booking is essential for groups. Booking is advisable but not essential for non-groups.

Address: CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1 T: +353 (0)1 9060861 E: info@epicchq.com W: www.epicchq.com 8

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2017

FEEL THE

Spirit of France ALL OVER DUBLIN AT CHEZ MAX

Baggot Street

O

Our Baggot Street restaurant is renowned for its well-heated and covered outdoor seating areas that allow customers to dine outside all year around.

Coffee Shop

T

Palace Street

The Chez Max Coffee Shop is the perfect lunchtime destination, serving homemade filled baguettes on freshly baked bread as well as superb lunchtime soups & salads.

133 Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2 | 01 6618899 Brasserie / Coffee Shop

O

Or why not visit our authentic French Bistro on Palace Street which serves classic homemade dishes with a Parisian flair.

1 Palace Street, Dublin 2 | 01 6337215 Bistro

Theatre Mermaid Arts Centre

as you've never imagined it before, a superbly theatrical homage to Joyce's chronicle of Dublin life and the greatest novel of all time.

Mary Coughlan and her band are bringing her new show Live & Kicking to Irish Venues Nationwide this autumn. It is a celebration of Mary’s 30 plus years in the music business.

Mary Coughlan’s music career has been a roller coaster, one hell of a ride, and this Live & Kicking concert will reflect that, featuring all the songs that are close to Mary’s heart and life.

6 October

2 - 28 October Tel: 01 8872200 or visit www.abbeytheatre.ie

An Evening with Mary Coughlan & Her Musicians

Tel: 01 2724043 or visit www.mermaidartscentre.ie

Bord Gáis Energy Theatre Miss Saigon

Also at the Abbey this month; Me, Sara (1 September - 30 November), Hamnet (26 September - 7 October), Josephine K and The Algorithms (11 - 21 October), What Put the Blood (25 October - 4 November)

The Gate Theatre Tribes

With excoriating dialogue and sharp, compassionate insights, Nina Raine crafts a penetrating, deeply moving and shockingly funny play.

The Irish Premiere of this award-winning play relocates the action from leafy suburban Hampstead to South County Dublin where Billy, born deaf into a hearing family, struggles to define who he is within his highly intellectual, yet emotionally possessive, clan.

28 September - 11 November

Cameron Mackintosh’s acclaimed new production of Boublil and Schönberg’s legendary musical Miss Saigon — a recent smash hit in the West End — comes to Bord Gáis Energy Theatre as part of a major UK and Ireland Tour. Winner of a record-breaking nine Whatsonstage Awards 2015 including Best Show, this epic love story tells the tragic tale of young bar girl Kim, orphaned by war, who falls in love with an American GI called Chris — but their lives are torn apart by the fall of Saigon.

4 October - 18 November Tel: 01 6777999 or visit www.bordgaisenergytheatre.ie

The Abbey Theatre Ulysses

Tel: 01 8744045 / 01 8746042 or visit www.gatetheatre.ie

The Gaiety Theatre King of the Castle

Druid revive an unsung Irish classic with epic staging and a cast that includes Seán McGinley, Seána Kerslake and Marty Rea. King of the Castle premiered at Dublin Theatre Festival 1964, where it went on to win the Irish Life Award. This is its first major revival in over 30 years.

Scober MacAdam is king of the castle, a once glorious Big House in County Leitrim with an extensive farm. He has a young wife, Tressa, but their marriage is childless and frustrated. When rumours threaten Scober’s pride, he concocts a plan that jeopardises all he has worked for.

28 October Tel: 01 679 3323 or visit www.olympia.ie Also at The Olympia this month; Russell Crowe’s Indoor Garden Party (1 October), JP Cooper (5 October), The Stunning (6 October), Alter Bridge (7 October), The Line Up (8 October), Michael English (11 October), Marty Stuart (12 October), The Swing Cats - The Story of Swing (13 October), The Greatest Love of All (14 - 15 October), Zara Larsson (16 October), Paul Carrack (18 October), Shane Filan (19 October), St Vincent (20 - 21 October), Heels of Hell (23 October), Paul Heaton & Jacqui Abbott (24 October), Jon Richardson (25 - 26 October), Jason Isbell & The 400 Unit (27 October), Joey Bada$$ (30 October) and Foy Vance (31 October).

Smock Alley Theatre Melt

A world premiere production, Melt is about the folly of humankind, our Icarus-like ability to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory, and the damage we do ourselves and our world in the process.

Its setting is the Antarctic – the last great wilderness, the edge of the known world, the one relatively uncontaminated territory. Into this idyllic landscape is catapulted the gloriously anarchic Boylan, a pioneering Irish ecologist gone rogue. As the play opens, he is joined by Cook, a young scientist who is strung between his professional ambitions and his romantic longing for the mysterious Dr Hansen – Boylan’s ex-wife.

28 September - 8 October Also at Smock Alley this month; The Good House of Happiness (11 - 15 October), God Has No Country (9 - 14 October), Ethiopian Art Show (12 - 15 October) and Whitby (25 30 October) Tel: 01 6770014 or visit www.smockalley.com

Theatre Royal Waterford

11 - 15 October Tel: 0818 719 388 or visit www.gaietytheatre.ie Also at The Gaiety this month; Woyzeck in Winter (3 - 8 October), Her Stars Will Shine, a tribute to the legendary Billie Barry (17 - 21 October), Ross O’Carroll Kelly Postcards from the Ledge (25 October - 11 November) The Olympia Theatre

Alison Moyet The Abbey Theatre presents Dermot Bolger's brilliantly adapted, vibrant version of James Joyce's classic Ulysses in a thrilling production for theatre. Bloom's odyssey becomes a theatrical pandemonium of live music, puppets, dancing, clowning, bowler hats and kazoos. It's Ulysses 10

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

Alison Moyet returns to Ireland, showcasing songs from her new album ‘Other’. The new record finds Alison at the top of her game making exactly the adventurous electronic pop music she wants to at this moment in time, with her voice and songwriting both intense, poetic and thought provoking..

An Evening with Nik Kershaw

Nik Kershaw is an English singer-songwriter, composer, multi-instrumentalist and producer.

Coming into prominence in the mid 1980s as a solo artist, releasing eight singles that entered the Top 40 charts including "Wouldn't It Be Good” and "The Riddle". He has also penned a number of hits for other artists with Elton John has describing him as "the best songwriter of a generation".

8 October Tel 051 874402 or visit www.theatreroyal.ie

Newly refurbished Peploe’s New York style meets Parisienne charm on Dublin’s St Stephens Green

Pre Theatre Menu 12.30 – 6.15pm

16 St. Stephen’s Green

peploes.com

353 1 676 3144

Gothic Dublin

by Pat Liddy

I

reland, along with its capital city, Dublin, would not be the first place that springs to mind when considering blood-drenched vampires, the shambling, vacuous ‘undead’, the terrifying threats of the damned or the ghoulish happenings on the dark side of Halloween. Yet, in many ways, this is where it all began way back in the creepy mists of time and in the shadowy literature of the Victorian era.

The medieval and later periods in Dublin saw massacres of citizens, plagues and pestilences, hunger and poverty, public hangings and beheadings, tortures, religious persecutions, unjust imprisonment in dungeons and exile as slaves or deportees. A hapless place to live for many and reason enough for a myriad of ghost stories and tales of hauntings. Even place names carry reminders of a distressed past: Misery Hill, Hangman’s Lane, Gallows Hill, Hell and Blackpitts (where Black Death victims were buried - sometimes alive - in mass graves).

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The stories of ghoulish body-snatching from Dublin cemeteries are legion at a time before the Anatomy Act was passed in 1830, fearless men, in the pay of the city’s several medical schools, would disinter freshly-buried bodies for dissection by the students. Only a few years ago the bones of some two hundred of these corpses were found in a former pit in Trinity College. As you would expect there are rumours of ghosts in Trinity College, in theatres, in Dublin Castle, in old libraries, around the Old City Walls, under Smithfield Square and so on. The most unfortunate ghost is that of Robert Emmet, a revolutionary who was beheaded in 1803 and his ghost is said to haunt the Brazen Head pub. Most unfortunate for him; headless in a pub!

Thousands of years ago, when Ireland was still covered in forests, the scattered communities handed down, from generation to generation, their stories of unavoidable intercourse with the underworld of ethereal spirits and avenging spectres out to wreak havoc

among the living. Irish mythology, springing from pre-history into Celtic times and beyond, has produced copious narratives of the weird and the nether regions.

Because the Roman armies never came to Ireland, the old Gaelic order survived in parts of the county right up to the 16th century and the memory of that system lasted even into the modern era.

It is from these earliest times that the stories of Banshees (avenging female spirits) and the Sidhe (fairies) emanate.

Warriors on their way to war supposedly saw Banshees washing blood from tunics and severed limbs, a portent of their own demise in the coming war. In more recent times to hear the wailing of a banshee was the dreaded signal that someone in the family was about to die. Fairies descended from a defeated prehistoric tribe called the Tuatha de Danann who were banished to live underground where they lived on their wits and mischief, thus giving rise to the myth of the Leprechauns. Their entrance to the nether regions was through the Sidhe or fairy

mound and to this day some farmers are too superstitious to level little hillocks on farms that according to local legend are believed to be fairy mounds.

Altogether more sinister are the ancient tales associated with the Celtic feast of Samhain, traditionally held at the end of October when the harvest was gathered in and the long, cold winter was looming. It was then that the ‘undead’ emerged from the mysterious, dark recesses of the next life and stalked the land to ruin crops, to slay herds and to seek vengeance on their former enemies.

The only way to protect yourself and your household was to hang erstwhile enemies’ severed heads outside the door to dissuade their entry. Samhain has evolved into today’s Halloween and the skull has morphed into the hollowedout pumpkin. Irish emigrants in the 18th and 19th century brought many of their legends and customs over to the New World and Halloween was one of them.

The Christian Church took the pagan festival of Samhain and turned into the feast of All Saints or All Hallows and the day leading into this feast was simply know as All Hallows Eve or Halloween.

But we Irish have taken the world of ghouls, demons, goblins, zombies and

vampires into a whole new realm. In fact, it was a pair of Dubliners who released the image of blood-sucking vampires onto an unsuspecting world. Vampirism was not a

new phenomenon but it received a more international audience thanks to these two authors. Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu, of Huguenot descent, was a reclusive writer who specialised in ghost stories but his most chilling work was Camilla, the riveting story of a female lesbian vampire – a characterisation that was a bit risqué for publicly prudish Victorian society. Le Fanu inspired a fellow Dubliner who brought the genre to a whole new level.

This was Bram Stoker who published his horrifying and gory novel Dracula, published in 1897, twenty-five years after Carmilla. Stoker’s working title for the book was The Undead, a reference to the stories his mother used to tell from Irish mythology and from more contemporary cholera epidemics when his mother witnessed people who were afflicted with the disease being literally buried alive lest they contaminate others around them! Dracula has since inspired more than a thousand movies and countless books and is one of the most successful publications of all time. Every October in Dublin, true to its Gothic reputation, the city hosts the Bram Stoker Festival which this year takes place 27 – 30 October. For further information see www.bramstokerfestival.com.

dodublintours

TED VO

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Whether you want to sit back and soak up the culture at Dublin’s historic sites or get out there and explore the streets, meet the people and sample the Guinness, our guides can help you make the most of your holiday and see the city like a local.

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Buy in person at Dublin Bus Head Office 59 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Hop on and pay driver

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Dublin Theatre Festival’s

60th anniversary programme The 60th anniversary Dublin Theatre Festival will showcase a diverse programme of contemporary Irish and international theatre.

The festival will open with the hugely acclaimed new version of Aeschylus's play The Suppliant Women at the Gaiety Theatre. A story about the plight of refugees, moral and human rights, civil war, democracy and ultimately the triumph of love. Fifty local female volunteers, aged 16-25, will perform alongside a professional cast to create an extraordinary theatrical event.

Also at the Gaiety, from Landmark Productions and Galway International Arts Festival, will be Woyzeck in Winter an electrifying fusion of two masterpieces Büchner’s Woyzeck and Schubert’s Winterreise performed by a phenomenal Irish cast of actor-singers.

Druid revive Eugene McCabe’s King of the Castle which premiered at Dublin Theatre Festival in 1964 to acclaim and scandal. A powerful, often uncomfortable tale of betrayal and brutality starring Seána Kerslake and Seán McGinley In another eagerly awaited revival and twenty-five years after it was first presented as part of Dublin Theatre Festival 1992, Frank Pig Says Hello, the stage version of Pat McCabe’s novel The Butcher Boy, returns alongside McCabe’s follow up show, The Leaves of Heaven, in a unique double-bill from Co-Motion.

Belinda McKeon, features in the programme with Corn Exchange’s Nora, a new play after Henrik Ibsen’s A Doll’s House at Project Arts Centre, while Iseult Golden and David Horan’s CLASS explores the complications and comedy when three adults find themselves back in class.

Multi-award winning company ANU return to the festival with a searingly intimate investigation into the corrupting force of the Irish family in The Sin Eaters,

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which will be performed in one of the more unusual festival venues – The Pigeon House Lab overlooking Dublin Bay. Pan Pan Theatre are back with The Good House of Happiness, where audiences are invited to meet an actor, a pop singer and a scholar, from China, and two Mongolian accountants who have come together to make a modern version of Brecht’s parable play, The Good Person of Szechuan.

Other new writing includes a world premiere production from Rough Magic with Melt, a funny, sophisticated fairytale that explores the human condition, and acknowledges its fragility and Playboyz a re-imagining of JM Synge’s Playboy of the Western World directed by Martin Sharry.

THEATREclub also return to the festival with Doireann Coady’s debut as author with I’m Not Here.

Rapids by Shaun Dunne from Talking Shop Ensemble explores instances of disclosure and the presence of stigma in the lives of men and women who are HIV+ in Ireland today.

Donnacha Dennehy and Enda Walsh’s collaboration from Landmark Productions and Wide Open Opera, The Second Violinist will burst onto the stage at the O'Reilly Theatre. Little John Nee brings his mesmeric musical storytelling to another dimension with long-time collaborator and creator Laura Sheeran, and a multi-award winning team in Radio Rosario.

Emma Martin’s new work, a fierce and multi-layered dance-theatre creation exploring passages of a life, Girl Song is an ode to the extraordinary details of an ordinary existence.

This year a very young actor will hold the stage on his own in a solo work for

an eleven-year-old boy. Hamnet, stars Ollie West and is directed by Bush Moukarzel and Ben Kidd, while Dublin Youth Theatre brings a fresh new cast to the stage in this is a room… performed by young people who believe they will never own houses.

Companies from Japan, USA, UK, Norway, Belgium, and Australia will all travel to Dublin to be part of this theatrical celebration. From the USA, The Bitter Game, Keith A. Wallace blends verse, prose and ‘sh*t-talkin’ into a stirring commentary that begs the question: what does it mean to survive while Black in America? Poised in the delicate space between concert and theatre, Endings from Australian, Tamara Saulwick is a meditation on cycles and the ending of things. In Wind Resistance, (UK) Karine Polwart surveys the surrounding landscape through history, song, bird-lore and personal memoir.

Belgian artist Miet Warlop returns to Dublin Theatre Festival with Fruits of Labor, a trippy crossover between theatre and concert. A unique version of Shakespeare’s kaleidoscopic poem using narration, music, and puppetry - Venus and Adonis comes from the Royal Shakespeare Company in association with Little Angel Theatre, and Ranters Theatre Australia bring their quietly humorous meditation on life and death, Come Away With Me to the End of the World.

The festival has collaborated with The Ark once again to present three productions for children: Poggle for ages 2-5, If only Rosa could Do Magic for ages 5-9 and, for ages 10+ We Come From Far Far Away.

For more information on Dublin Theatre Festival 2017 or to book tickets go to dublintheatrefestival.com

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Emma Martin’s new work, a fierce and multi-layered dance-theatre creation exploring passages of a life, Girl Song is an ode to the extraordinary details of an ordinary existence.

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Recommended Shopping Powerscourt Centre

Located in Dublin’s Creative Quarter on the bustling South William Street is the Powerscourt Centre. Housed in a stunning Georgian townhouse, the Powerscourt Centre has over 40 shops and restaurants and offers shoppers a wonderful city centre shopping experience.

The centre offers a range of fashion stores, such as All Saints, French Connection and Mary Grant and if antiques are your thing then the Powerscourt Centre is the place to go. There are a number of antique stores in the centre, including Courtville Antiques, Delphi Antiques, Lilly Fine Art, The Silver Shop and Monte Cristo. If you’re planning a wedding in the near future, the Centre also offers a number of superb wedding outlets www.powerscourtcentre.ie

Mourne Antiques

Mourne Antiques have been operating in the thriving town of Letterkenny for 25 years.

They offer a range of beautiful antiques, such as ceramics, silver, furniture and collectables, all with their own particular history and charm.

You could find anything from a rare book to a mink coat!

They specialise in a wide range of jewellery.

From Victorian gold and precious stone pieces to Contemporary diamond and Engagement rings to 1940’s costume jewellery, their stock is sure to please.

38 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal 074 9126457 www.mourneantiques.com

Tights Department

Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre Located at the top of Grafton Street, in the heart of Dublin city centre, Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre hosts a wide variety of top retailers.

Household names such as Dunnes Stores, Argos, Boots, Eason, United Colors of Benetton, Mothercare, Elverys, Golden Discs and TK Maxx can be found here. When you’re finished shopping, you can relax in one of the many lovely cafes, head for a pint in one of the many nearby pubs, or take a stroll across the road in St Stephen’s Green. www.stephensgreen.com

Jam Art Factory

Jam Art Factory was set up in 2011 by brothers John and Mark to showcase the work of Irish artists and designers. It specialises in digital art prints, street art, ceramics and some witty Dublin themed work. It has been shortlisted in The Irish Times “Best Shops in Ireland” 4 years in a row.

64 Patrick Street, Dublin 8 14 Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 616 5671 www.JamArtFactory.com and www.JamArtPrints.com 16

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

Celtic Whiskey Shop

Ireland’s premier Irish whiskey specialists with a remarkable selection of beloved, rare and hard to find bottlings and shop exclusives. It boasts a knowledgeable and friendly staff who are proud and passionate about products, and are always on hand to offer advice. Feel free to pop in where we serve up in-store whiskey tastings all day everyday! If you're travelling, our staff can either wrap your purchases in protective wrapping or arrange shipping to national and international destinations.

27 – 28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6759744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com

Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants Tights Dept. is an Irish owned store specialising in Italian legwear. They offer a full range of classic and fashion hosiery: tights, socks (men and women), hold-ups, stockings, leggings and more, they also stock a collection of tops and vests. Top brands: Omsa, Emilio Cavallini, Trasparenze, Omero and Happy Socks.

25 Royal Hibernian Way (Anne Street South entrance), Dublin 2 Tel. 085 800 4281 Shop online: www.tightsdepartment.ie (deliver worldwide)

Designer Exchange

Ireland’s only dedicated pre-loved and authentic designer handbag and accessory store, Designer Exchange stock all the leading designer brands such as DKNY, Louis Vutton and Chanel. They offer incredible savings on these top designer brands.

Since 1805, family-owned Mitchell & Son have been providing Fine Wines & Spirits to the people of Ireland. Now in the hands of the 7th generation, they offer a high quality selection of New & Old World Wines, Champagne, & fortified wines. Home to the Green and Yellow Spot Irish Whiskeys, they also have a wide selection of Irish, Scotch, & Japanese whiskies, and other fine spirits. With a superb selection of Riedel Glassware and decanters, Coravin Wine System, and Le Creuset wine accessories, they are one of the most diverse independent wine merchants in Ireland. Mitchell & Son also offer Wine and Whiskey Appreciation courses that provide an understanding of the Irish market and a chance to explore your tastes.

53 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 612 8080 www.facebook.com/DesignerExchangeLtd

CHQ Building, IFSC, Dublin, D01 FC89 Tel: 01 612 5540 www.mitchellandson.com

Recommended Shopping The Donegal Shop

The Donegal Shop is an independently owned and family run Irish business. They are specialists in Donegal homespun tweeds and knitted products. The store offers a range of knitwear, aran sweaters and accessories for both women and men, all crafted using techniques handed down through generations of Donegal artists.

Mention Travel Ireland to get a 10% discount 2nd Floor, St Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com

Dundrum Town Centre

Brown Thomas

Amelia’s is home to a selection of beautiful gallery pieces that are perfect for the home or a present for someone special. They stock a range of art and studio ceramics lovingly handcrafted by makers from all over the country, specialising in local makers from the North-West of Ireland.

There are little gifts and keepsakes for the everyday too! All pieces are handpicked by If it’s a high end shopping experience that you’re owner Frances Spears. She has over 20 years after, then Brown Thomas is the place to go. In this experience in the design and antiques business store you can find some of the world’s finest brands, so you know you’re in good hands when you including Armani, Baker, Chanel, Dior and Yves pay a visit to Amelia’s Irish Design.

Saint Laurent. The store offers personal shopping 29 Upper Main Street, Letterkenny services and an unrivalled range of corporate gifts and there is tax free shopping available for non-EU Co. Donegal 087 2434060 residents. www.amelias.ie 88 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 01 6056666 Mackintosh by Francis www.brownthomas.com

The Kilkenny Shop

Irish Linen House

www.dundrum.ie

Campelli

Mackintoshes were first produced in Ireland in 1889 and Francis Campelli has been involved in the production of them for almost 40 years so you know you’re in the most experienced hands The Kilkenny Shop is Ireland’s largest emporium when you visit this store. for Irish designed products; from fashion and They offer the finest quality, waterproof jewellery to homeware, handmade crafts and crystal. For over five decades, the Kilkenny Shop has Mackintoshes for men and women from stock or made to measure been supporting Irish design talent, stocking top designers like Waterford Crystal, Orla Kiely, Aideen from €485, as well as a range of leather bags, satchels and accessories.

Bodkin, Nicholas Mosse and Stephen Pearce.

6 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 6777066 www.kilkennyshop.com

This huge shopping outlet on the southside of Dublin is only minutes from the city centre and is easily accessible by car, bus or Luas. It’s certainly worth the journey because Dundrum has it all.

Top names such as Boss, House of Fraser, River Island, Tommy Hilfiger and BT2 can all be found there. In fact, you could spend the whole day there, with great shopping, a cinema and a host of great restaurants to choose from. There is plenty of parking, WIFI available throughout the centre and they even have phone charging outlets. All of this combines to offer the ultimate shopping experience.

Amelia’s Irish Design

Irish Linen House create handmade tablerunners, placemats and napkins made from the finest Irish linen. Each piece of the collection is uniquely made, fusing historical elements with a modern, contemporary edge and has caught the attention of worldwide stores including Barneys of New York. Just up the road from the Jameson Distillery, their Smithfield store is the perfect place to pick up a unique piece of Ireland.

Nr. Jameson Distillery, Bow Street Smithfield Village, Dublin 7 www.irishlinenhouse.com 01-5329572 / 083-3010502 01 820 8774

46 South William Street, Dublin 2 01 6088608 www.franciscampelli.com

Article

This charming store in the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre is the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir of your time in Ireland.

They stock homeware from around the world, including Irish designers - with everything from Irish woollen throws, glass vases and stationery on offer and the friendly staff are always on hand to offer help and advice.

Powerscourt Townhouse, South William Street, Dublin 2 01 679 9268 www.articledublin.com OCTOBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Leinster Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin Jameson Distillery Bow Street Following an €11 million makeover, the revamped Jameson Distillery has opened its doors with three new fantastic tours for visitors to enjoy. ‘The Bow St. Experience’ tasting tour focuses on the stories of Jameson’s rich heritage and on-going innovations and ‘The Whiskey Makers’ and ‘The Whiskey Shakers’ experiences which provide more in-depth whiskey and cocktail masterclasses, both including the opportunity to sample whiskey straight from a cask in the distillery’s new live maturation house. All tours are delivered with the assistance of cutting-edge technology making this an experience that demands repeated visits. www.jamesonwhiskey.com

Glasnevin Cemetery Museum and Guided Tours Glasnevin is one of Ireland’s most popular attractions. Located 2.5km from Dublin centre, this is a hauntingly gorgeous Victorian Garden cemetery where over 1.5 million are buried. Guides are passionate about sharing their love of history and recount the stories of Ireland’s fascinating past through daily walking tours. A history lesson made fun and memorable by guides who know their stuff, be prepared to enjoy yourself. Awarded Best Cultural Experience in Ireland and listed at no. 2 on Tripadvisor, Glasnevin is a cemetery of historic importance. Museum, genealogy, gift shop and café on site.

Open daily for guided tours and re-enactments museum@glasnevintrust.ie

If you really want to get to know a city, then walking around with an informed, entertaining, professional guide is often the best way to discover its history, charms and hidden treasures.

Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin have been offering their famous tours for over a decade and they cover many aspects of the city both with scheduled and private tour programmes. The scheduled walks are provided all year round with two or three times daily departures from March onwards. Special event tours include St Valentine’s Day, St Patrick’s Festival, James Joyce’s Bloomsday and the Bram Stoker Festival among others. Private tours geared to the topic of your own choice can be arranged for any time. Subject to availability, tours can be provided in the main European languages.

In this centenary year of the Easter Rising of 1916 there are exciting tours dedicated to this momentous event, a pivotal episode in Irish history which eventually led to Irish Independence in 1922 after 750 years of British rule.

Full details can be found on www.walkingtours.ie, by emailing to info@walkingtours.ie or by telephoning to 01 832 9406.

Powerscourt House and Gardens Beautiful Powerscourt House and Gardens was recently voted No.3 in the World’s Top Ten Gardens

by National Geographic and is one of the mustsee tourist attractions in Ireland. Set in the wild Wicklow countryside, overlooking the Sugarloaf Mountain, Powerscourt enjoys a breath-taking panorama.

W: www.powerscourt.com E: info@powerscourt.net Ph: + 353 1 204 6000

Viking Splash Tours Join Viking Splash Tours on a thrilling tour around the main sights of Dublin City - by land and water. Let the Vikings show you the sites and scenes of the capital city from a World War II amphibious vehicle – all whilst their Viking guides deliver an informative, entertaining and engaging commentary, ensuring all are captivated on this thrilling tour. www.vikingsplash.com

The National Museum of Ireland The Museum is recognised as Ireland’s premier cultural institution and home to the greatest collections of Irish material heritage, culture and natural history in the world. With three locations in Dublin covering Archaeology, Natural History and the Decorative Arts and one location in Mayo covering Country Life, you can lose yourself for hours in the many exhibitions detailing all aspects of Irish life down through the ages. Don’t miss the fantastic new exhibition Shadow of Sodeisha; Japanese and Irish art in Clay, celebrating 60 years of Japanese/Irish relations which runs in the National Museum of History Decorative Arts until February 2018.

Admission to the museum is free all year round.

Tel 01 677 7444

Baggot Street welcomes a beautiful modern Italian restaurant!

Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, Dinner 5pm 'til late, Mon- Sat www.cirillos.ie

Phone | +353 1 676 6848 Location | No. 140, Baggot St., Dublin 2 18

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

Recommended Bars in Leinster

Dingle Whiskey Bar

The Duke

Ideally situated close to Grafton Street, this old watering hole has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822. They have a great selection of craft beers, whiskeys and gins for you to try, along with amazing food. The Duke is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of busy Grafton Street.

9 Duke St, Dublin 2 016799553

Sin É

Sin É on Ormond Quay is Dublin’s original late night alternative music venue. Whether it’s bluegrass, ska, alternative rock or open mic night’s that you’re looking for, Sin É caters for a range of eclectic tastes. The staff are warm and friendly and will serve you a range of incredible craft beers and cocktails at agreeable prices. If you’re looking for a great atmosphere and some of the best musicians in Dublin then Sin É is

ǧ

definitely the place to be. ĆĞnj ĎĒĊ ĊĚē ċėĔĒ ͕͖ ēĔĔē

the celt

The Dingle Whiskey Bar is a delightful bar nestled beside Porterhouse Central on Nassau St. Walking into the bar, you are welcomed by a beautiful oak interior and a warm welcoming feel. The bar staff are very helpful, recommending many whiskeys and offering samples. And every Tuesday they host a Whiskey Tasting Class from 7pm with whiskey guru Fionnån O’Connor. Learn everything you ever wanted to know about the brown stuff and enjoy some delicious whiskey. Tickets available at the bar for ₏18.

44 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 01 677 4810 www.theporterhouse.ie

strolling14 into-15 theOrmond celt is likeQuay taking a trip to the west, play boys and chailĂ­nĂ­ payfor attention and& dance along the way to the early light Tel: 01 555 4036 01 555 4037

www.sin-e.ie

ÍœÍ•ÇŚÍœÍ– –ƒŽ„‘– •–”‡‡–ǥ †—„Ž‹Â? …‹–› …‡Â?–”‡ ™™™Ǥ–Š‡…‡Ž–Ǥ‹‡ –‡Žǣ ͔͕ ͛͜͜ ͚͙͙͜

The Brazen Head

Dating back to 1198, The Brazen Head is officially Ireland’s oldest pub. The many pictures and scrolls that adorn the walls will transport you back to a time when the famous old pub was frequented by the likes of James Joyce, Brendan Behan and Michael Collins. You might even spot a famous contemporary face or two in there enjoying the great food and drink or live music and storytelling that the pub is famous for.

Street 66

Street 66 is a new bar/venue, tucked away in the heart of trendy South Dublin on Parliament Street, just two minutes walk from Temple Bar and Dublin Castle. A great place for lovers of disco, funk and soul, and reggae with a wide selection of Gins, Irish Whiskeys, cocktails and craft beer. This dog friendly bar is designed for the global citizen who loves great drinks and great music.

33 - 34 Parliament Street, Dublin 2 01 6793369 www.street66.bar

20 Bridge Street Lower, Dublin 8 01 6779549 / 01 6795186 www.brazenhead.com

The Celt Davy Byrne’s

This famous old pub is steeped in history and has strong literary connections. The pub is famously mentioned in James Joyce’s Ulysses and Joyce was a regular patron when he lived in Dublin. Davy Byrne’s literary connections would continue down through the years with the likes of James Stephens, Liam O’Flaherty, Padraig O’Conaire and in later times Myles na gCopaleen, Patrick Kavanagh, Anthony Cronin and Brendan Behan all frequenting the pub. In more recent times, Davy Byrne’s has become renowned for their quality pub-food, with seafood being a speciality.

21 Duke Street, Dublin 2 01 6775217

Situated on Talbot Street in the heart of Dublin, The Celt Bar is always thronged with locals and visitors thanks to the authentic Irish experience that is on offer there. Visitors can sample the finest Irish whiskeys, beers, ales and stouts and enjoy live traditional music seven nights a week.

The Celt also offer traditional Irish food seven days a week. The classic bar menu includes beer battered haddock and traditional beef and Guinness stew. There’s no better place to go to for the full Irish experience than The Celt Bar. 81 Talbot St, Dublin Tel: 01 878 8655 www.thecelt.ie

Grogan’s

This is the regular hang-out for Dublin’s finest writers and painters, or the great unwashed, and the walls inside are decked out with paintings and drawings which can, for a small sum, be purchased.

Improbably, it is also part of one of the most fashionable mini crossroads in the city centre. And at weekends, the place is humming.

15 S William St., Dublin 2. Tel: 01 677 9320 OCTOBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Mykonos Taverna

Authentic Greek food in the heart of Dublin.

Mykonos Taverna offers traditional Greek dishes such as Moussaka, Kleftiko and Souvlaki at incredibly good prices, all made from the freshest of ingredients from land and sea. The staff are friendly and attentive and always on hand to cater to your every need, all you have to do is relax and enjoy your food! Make sure you try their delicious homemade ice cream too, which is made on the premises. The perfect way to round off a fantastic Greek meal.

76 Dame Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 561 3745 Email: mykonostaverna@dublin.com Web: www.mykonosdublin.com

Le Bon Crubeen

This is one of the best value restaurants in Dublin, with a brasserie menu to suit all tastes.

It has won Best Value Restaurant Dublin in the Dubliner, Best Pre-Theatre listing in Hot Press and Best Casual Dining in the Restaurant Awards Value and Quality.

81-2 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 704 0126 www.leboncrubeen.ie

Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links

Situated just fifteen minutes from Dublin Airport, the Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links has a number of fantastic restaurants. The Seaview restaurant offers specialised seaview dining with magnificent views of the Velvet Strand and Dublin Bay while The Jameson Bar features live music every Friday and Saturday night. The 1780 is the newest addition to the dining offerings at the hotel. Under the command of decorated Chef Tom Walsh and Restaurant Manager Derek Yu, the restaurant exemplifies an ethos of casual fine dining.

With locally sourced food that is prepared

by Tom and his team, this delicately selected menu is certain to appeal to all.

Peploe’s

Peploe’s Wine Bistro is a chic and ambient restaurant located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. With it’s cosy lighting and comfortable spacious dining area, it is the perfect place to enjoy a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere. All produce is sourced from only the best Irish suppliers and prepared to the highest standard. Located opposite St Stephens Green, Peploe’s is the perfect place to visit for a glass of wine to greet the evening after a twilight stroll in the park.

16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 676 3144 www.peploes.com

Restaurant FortyOne

Strand Road, Portmarnock, Co. Dublin 01 8460611 www.portmarnock.com

Café Topolis

Situated on Parliament St, Café Topolis is one of the best Italian restaurants in town with an extensive menu offering superior Italian cuisine. Best of all, it’s one of the very few places where they cook their pizzas in the traditional wood fired oven.

37 Parliament St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 670 4961

Camden Kitchen

Under the expert guidance of Graham Neville, Restaurant FortyOne has scooped numerous awards and flourished over the past three years.

This is thanks to the superb experience that they offer, eschewing butter and sugar in favour of olive oil, vegetables and fruit juices that are sourced from the restaurant’s own garden. These unique ingredients are used to create fulsome, sumptuous courses, making Restaurant FortyOne the home of fine dining in Dublin.

41 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 662 0000 info@restaurantfortyone.ie www.restaurantfortyone.ie

Mexico to Rome

Zaytoon

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Zaytoon gives you the chance to choose a healthy eating option and indulge in the guilty pleasure of treating yourself to a scrumptious kebab. More a casual diner than a fast food place, they offer the very best of Persian cuisine. And as well as the one in Temple Bar they’ve opened a second one at the top of Camden Street.

A culinary gem in the heart of Dublin, Camden Kitchen is the place to go to for lunch or dinner. Their menu changes daily to reflect the best seasonal ingredients available, meaning you know that you’ll be served fresh, seasonal food every time. Diners can choose from beautiful starters such as Irish Line Caught Mackerel, Connemara Crab Meat or Whipped Goats Cheese and then move on to delicious main courses, like Breckland Duck Leg, Irish Rib Eye Beef and Smoked Haddock Risotto, all served up in a wonderful cosy atmosphere by the friendly staff.

Located in the heart of Temple Bar, Mexico to Rome, Bandito’s Grill House offer a new twist on Mexican dishes such as sizzling Fajitas, their unique Burritos, Tacos, Chili Con Carne, and Tex-Mex Baby Back Ribs in a Southern Comfort BBQ Sauce. They also offer a range of European and Asian dishes. They boast one of the best value earlybird menus in Dublin at €13.50 for a starter and main course, while their lunch special of a starter, main course and a soft drink or a glass of wine for €9.95 is superb value.

14/15 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 3595 www.zaytoon.ie

3 Camden Market, Grantham Street, D8 Tel: 01 476 0125 www.camdenkitchen.ie

23 East Essex Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 2727 www.mexicotorome.com

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

Recommended Restaurants in Leinster Kafka Restaurant

Whether it’s for an Italian coffee, a sweet or savoury snack or a full meal with wine, you can call in here for continental cuisine, exemplary service and great value. They serve lunch, brunch and dinner, offering a fresh healthy menu of delights including Spinach and Ricotta Cheese Ravioli, Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Tiger Prawn Risotto and as they’re just a short walk from the City Centre, it’s the perfect place to start your night out.

Chez Max

La Resérve Brasserie

Feel the spirit of France right here in Dublin!

Chez Max Baggot Street is renowned for its outside seating area. There is a smart garden at restaurant level as well as a sizable terrace on the upper level. The outside areas are wellheated and covered to allow customers to dine outside all year round! In summer, diners flock to Chez Max, Baggot Street to enjoy lunch in the sunshine.

La Resérve is a lively and intimate French Brasserie that serves a modern take on French classics. They focus on simple yet high quality dishes, presented with precision and faithful to true flavours. Open for dinner, brunch and lunch - whether you’re looking for a light snack or an exciting evening meal, La Resérve has something for you.

133 Lower Baggot St, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 661 8899

Cirillo’s

La Réserve Brasserie, 53 Ranelagh village, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Tel: 01 496 8825 Email: info@lareserve.ie Web: lareserve.ie Twitter: @lareserve1 Facebook: facebook.com/LaReserveBrasserie

La Ruelle Wine Bar

236 Rathmines Rd Lwr., Dublin 6 01 497 7057 www.kafka.ie

Asador Cirillo’s have gone to great lengths to ensure that their customers enjoy an authentic Italian meal.

All of their pizzas are made to the traditional Vera Pizza Napoletana standards, using San Marzano tomatoes, 00 flour and fresh mozzarella all finished in a wood fire oven that they imported from Naples. All of their pasta, bread, pizza dough and ice creams are made in-house every day and they offer a wide variety of Italian wines, craft beers and aperitifs that beautifully compliment their seriously tasty meals.

‘ASADOR’ A Spanish word meaning barbecue, grill or spit. ASADOR Haddington Road opened its doors in November 2012 to great critical acclaim. The idea behind ASADOR is simple; take the best meats our fields can provide, the freshest seafood landed on our shores and cook this great Irish produce over a bespoke built 7 foot barbecue or ‘Asador’.

ASADOR was the first restaurant operation to bring premium level barbecue to the Dublin dining scene. Customers flocked to sample signature dry-aged steaks, lobster, fish and game cooked in the most ancient of ways. Guests can expect the best of old and new world wines, craft beers and of course a range of cocktails from the experienced team of mixologists - the perfect partner for premium barbecued food.

140 Baggot Street, Dublin 2 +353 1 6766848 www.cirillos.ie

Marcel’s Restaurant

ASADOR, the balance of flames, flavour and food.

Combining elegant Moroccan décor and contemporary design, Marcel’s is a restaurant, bistro and bar that offers the finest French and European inspired food in a warm and friendly environment. Diners can choose from a range of delicious dishes, including Risotto, Pan Roast Monkfish and succulent Roast Rump Lamb while relaxing in the heart of Dublin City.

1 Victoria House, Haddington Rd, Dublin 4.

Tel: 01 254 5353 www.asador.ie

13 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 660 2367 bookings@marcels.ie www.marcels.ie

Tucked in opposite the Mansion House, on Joshua Lane, La Ruelle is the ideal venue for an intimate drink, with over 100 different international wines of which 40 are served by the glass. Their menu includes a variety of mouth watering nibbles, tapas and bites served small or large to accompany your wine of choice. Catering for private parties with free car park facilities in R.I.A.C for all customers.

Perfect for the festive season or any events.

3/4 Joshua Lane, Dublin 2 laruelleadmin@laruelle.ie www.laruelle.ie

Salamanca

Located on Andrews Street, near the new home of the Molly Malone statue, Salamanca was one of the first Tapas Bars in the city and remains one of the best. Their Tapas dishes are served by authentic Spanish chefs and they use only the finest quality fresh ingredients. Diners can choose from a wide range of quality Tapas and carefully selected Spanish wines for a truly authentic taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Dublin City.

1 St. Andrew’s Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 677 4799 www.salamanca.ie OCTOBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Baboró N

International Arts Festival for Children

ow in its 21st year, Baboró International Arts Festival for Children takes place in Galway this October 16 – 22. Ireland’s flagship festival for children and families will welcome artists from Denmark, Mexico, Argentina, USA, Germany, Iceland, Netherlands, France, England and Norway who will join forces with artists from Ireland to offer an exciting programme to inspire and delight.

Featuring theatre, dance, music, visual arts and literature, Baboró invites young and old alike to enjoy a host of creative experiences and performances with family and friends.

Speaking at the launch of this year’s festival, Executive Artistic Director, Aislinn Ó hEocha said: “We’re delighted to share our 2017 programme with children, families and schools and we invite you all to join us for the 21st Baboró festival. As Galway starts its build-up to European Capital of Culture 2020, we’re excited to welcome artists from Ireland and all over the world to Galway this October.

We’re very grateful for the support of our main funders The Arts Council, Galway City & County Councils and The American Ireland Fund. We’d also like to thank our many sponsors including KBC and Medtronic, and the Galway business community, for their generous support year on year.”

Amongst the international programme highlights are The Peter Pan Experience from Het Laagland in the Netherlands, a quirky, high-energy show about rediscovering the joys of play; Bounce from Arcosm in France, is a sensitive and funny dance show featuring live music with plenty of climbing, playing, dancing and singing and Wot? No Fish!! from England’s Danny Braverman tells the wonderful true story of Braverman’s Great Uncle Ab and Great Aunt Celie bringing up their family

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

in 20th century London.

The literature programme will see master storytellers RTÉ’s Ryan Tubridy and illustrator PJ Lynch talk about their collaboration on Patrick and The President.

Workshops for children include designing your own board game with one of the world’s leading game designers, Brenda Romero. There’s also an opportunity to explore the origins of wool and tweed, used in the manufacture of clothing, with The Tweed Project as well as workshops in animation, dance, art and writing.

Irish work is presented by some of Ireland’s leading companies who make work for young audiences including festival favourites Theatre Lovett’s They Called her Vivaldi, an upbeat comedy-adventure about a sensitive musical-prodigy making a quiet name for herself in a cacophonous world and Fidget Feet’s Strange Feathers which mixes contemporary dance, aerial dance and live music in an engaging performance for the very young.

There’s also a chance for children and adults to get their creative juices flowing while spending quality time together in the Imagination Playground and there’s something for all the family with Catching Waves, a vibrant performance from some of the most talented young musicians and dancers in the West of Ireland with joyful music from Sym-Phonic Waves and dancers from Youth Ballet West. SymPhonic Waves is the west of Ireland’s brand new youth orchestra, an exciting orchestral project from Galway 2020 European Capital of Culture, which will see the orchestra grow to a full symphony orchestra as part of Galway’s 2020 programme.

Baboró offers performances for families and schools and runs in various venues throughout Galway from October 16 – 22. For more see http://baboro.ie

Gallery Zozimus

56 Francis Street, Dublin 8, PH : 4539057 A Simple arrangement oil on Canvas

By Mark O’Neill

Minature Spaces Porcelain

By Isobel Egan

The Green House..Ceramic Sculpture

By Sonja Guenther

Divas

by Ivan Panov

Dublins Largest Ceramic Gallery incorporating Fine Art Over 70 Ceramic Artists on Show

Email: info@galleryzozimus.ie, Web: www.galleryzozimus.ie

Welcome to Munster Munster is the most southerly of the four provinces of Ireland and stretches from Tipperary in the South Midlands to Waterford in the South East, and from Clare, Limerick and Kerry down to Cork in the South.The entire area is famed for Irish traditional music, song and dance. There are many ancient castles and monasteries in the province, and coupled with the vast green countryside and its three cities (Limerick, Cork and Waterford) Munster is a must see destination for tourists.

Cork at night

Lismore Castle Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times.

Travelling down the coast, Limerick is the next port of call which this year has been designated as Ireland’s first City of Culture.

From theatres to outdoor music events, museums to festivals, Limerick has an eclectic mix of sights and sounds to suit all tastes.

Reginald’s Tower

County Limerick also incorporates the Foynes Estuary with its world famous Foynes Flying Boat Museum. The museum tells the story of the Pan Am Clipper aircraft which brought commercial flights from America to our shores, landing in the estuary itself. It includes the only full-scale model of a Boeing B-314 Flying Boat anywhere in the world.

The Rose of Tralee is the most famous Festival in Kerry and this internationally acclaimed festival comes with all the bells and whistles you would expect from a truly Irish experience.

The festival celebrates its 55th year this year and commences with the International Rose Ball on the 15th of August before culminating with the selection of the 2014 Rose of Tralee in the magnificent dome four days later. There is a packed programme of events during the week for all to enjoy.

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

One of Munster’s most famous landmarks the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary is the historical seat of the Kings of Munster. The outcrop on which the Castle and grounds stand is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Munster. The spectacular group of medieval buildings are set on an outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale and include the 12th century round tower, the High Cross and Romanesque Chapel, the 13th century Gothic cathedral, the 15th century Castle and the restored Hall of the Vicars Choral.

Tel: 062 61437 Email: rockofcashel@opw.ie County Cork is well worth the drive as it has sandy beaches, the wonderful Blarney Castle, Foto Wildlife Park and golf course, wonderful coastlines and a city nightlife to rival any of that in Europe. Travel from east to west or north to south in this sprawling county and there is a view, an historical point of interest or an adventure to explore.

Finally at the extreme South East of the island of Ireland is Waterford. Waterford is the capital of the ‘Sunny South East of Ireland’

and Ireland’s oldest city. The city and county is famous throughout the world as the home of Waterford Crystal. A visit to the House of Crystal visitor centre includes an opportunity to choose from the world’s largest selection of Waterford Crystal. The factory tour offers first hand access to all areas of traditional crystal production.

County Waterford offers a dazzling 147 kilometres coastline, with 49 beaches, beautiful river valleys, lakes and two dramatic ranges of very accessible mountains.

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The Immigrants at Gallery Zozimus

Finn Campbell-Notman brings his exciting new exhibition ‘The Immigrants’ to Gallery Zozimus this month. Running from 12 to 28 October, ‘The Immigrants’ features a series of paintings of the birds of Andalusia, painted between November 2014 and July 2016.

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he works in this series are the result of both Finn’s lifelong interest in the subject, the close study of historical depictions and over ten years of acquaintance with the region. The paintings place the birds of the area in the locations and landscapes in which Finn has observed them and they are infused with the light, the character and the atmosphere of Andalusia and convey a true sense of place and the birds place within it.

The tradition of depicting birds in art is of course as old as visual culture itself chiefly because birds have always been considered emblematic of the ephemeral and transitory nature of life. It is for this reason that they continue to be the object of a gentle obsession for many.

Andalusia's extraordinarily varied climate and topography is home to a spectacular variety of birdlife.

It's geographical location means that it is also a place where migratory species are in constant passage from Africa to the north of Europe and vice versa. It is thus a place of global importance and a measure of the health of many bird species populations.

Finn Campbell-Notman has had a rich and varied career. Born into a family of artists and was raised around the Norfolk Broads while living on a 19th century touring boat with step-father, the landscape painter Peter Bearman. During his formative years, Andrew Lees (a founder of Friends of The Earth),

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

a family friend was leading a campaign in the area to protect the unique and unspoiled Norfolk Broads habitat: he inculcated in Finn the viewpoint that nature, the environment and the threats to both from bad industrial and agricultural practices was of the utmost importance, stirring his lifelong interest in nature. As well as art, Finn also pursued a career in music which resulted in his moving to the U.S.A and founding Imperial Dub Recordings. He has also been involved in music production, design,

marketing and administration, A&R and tours extensively throughout North America and Mexico, as well as being one of the co-founders one of the earliest internet radio stations.

Now he brings his latest incredible show to Dublin, where visitors to Gallery Zozimus can marvel at the beauty and diversity of the birds of Andalusia. http://galleryzozimus.ie

An Unmissable Experience!

Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration.

Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania.

Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland.

Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook 237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com 01/12/2015 14:08

Over 70 million people around the world claim direct descent from Irish emigrants who left our shores and set out to distant lands on epic journeys. At EPIC in Dublin’s Docklands you can take an interactive journey of discovery to find out why they left, see how they influenced the world they found, and experience the connection between their descendants and Ireland today.

Open daily 10am - 5pm.

Visit www.epicchq.com or call +353 (0)1 906 0861 to book your tickets.

RICHARD HARRIS

FILM FESTIVAL Celebrating the life of the iconic Irish actor in his hometown, the Richard Harris Film Festival returns to Limerick once again from 26 to 30 October.The festival has continued to grow and evolve since its foundation four years ago, with 2017 proving to be a particularly eventful year for the festival as it secured its IFTA affiliation and amalgamated with the Limerick Film Festival which sees the inclusion of a student film category.

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n June, the festival organisers screened their Women in Film Event, featuring six films written, directed or produced by female filmmakers. They also hosted their second annual Cannes Industry Party during the Cannes Film Festival. The event was hosted at Morrisons in Cannes and the organisers of the Richard Harris Film Festival say they are planning on launching a new film competition in association with Morrisons in the near future.

On Friday 6th October at St. Munchin’s Church, Kings Island from 8pm as part of OPEN HOUSE Limerick - will be a selection of the funniest films from last year’s festival, "Limerick Lols", as well as selected films from Fresh Film Festival and Lightmoves. BYOB, popcorn provided.

Then it’s on to the main event. This year’s festival will see the screening of over 60 short films, up to 10 features and sports documentaries, as well as the Culture in the Castle event which this year will be hosted

by Limerick Writers Centre and Stanza's poetry group.

One of the undoubted highlights of the festival is sure to be Goldenhair, which takes place on 28 October at UCH Limerick.

Originally a suite of chamber works, Byrne sets the stanzas of select poems from James Joyce’s 1907 collection Chamber Music to original orchestrations. Ranging in style from adult contemporary, to jazz, big band, spoken word, classical, bluegrass and more.

Award winning composer Brian moved to LA from Ireland in 2003 and has forged a hugely diverse and successful career, composing soundtracks and performing with a range of artists, such as Jack L, Roddy Doyle, Glenn 28

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

Close and Katy Perry. Bringing Brian back to Ireland to present his album live on stage is exactly the aim of the festival - "giving the Irish Diaspora a chance to showcase their work in Ireland". The concert will feature local and national vocalists including Hayley Jo Murphy and Kathleen Turner, guest musicians, as well as special guest narrators Stephen Rea and Patrick Bergin. Tickets for this very special show are available at www.uch.ie or by phoning 00353 61 331 549.

The Richard Harris Retrospective this year will be "Cry The Beloved Country", directed

by Darrell Roodt. Mr. Roodt will travel from South Africa to Limerick for the duration of the festival.

He will host Q&A sessions and also present two new feature films at the festival, one of which is “Siembamba”, a horror based on a south African lullaby that features South African actress Thandi Puren.

In spite of his great fame and success, Richard Harris always retained a great love of his hometown of Limerick. There is no better place to celebrate his life and work than in this great city at the Richard Harris Film Festival this month. Come join national and international film-makers and film fans in Limerick City, October Bank Holiday Weekend, Thursday 26th – Monday 30th. www.richardharrisfilmfestival.com

Dingle Crystal F

rom humble beginnings, Dingle Crystal have established themselves on the world stage thanks to their commitment to producing mouth-blown, hand-cut crystal. In an era when many other brands have gone down the wholesale route, this family-run company still proudly produce unique, hand crafted pieces that can be found in the collections of the President of Ireland and Bono to name but two.

With every piece signed and dated, it’s not hard to see why Dingle Crystal’s work would be appealing to those visiting the country, looking for an exclusive souvenir of their trip to Ireland.

They also cater to those living abroad, shipping worldwide.

Their fantastic work in this field was recently recognised at the SME Awards 2016, where they won the award for Best Online Exporter.

If you do visit Dingle then a trip to the new Dingle Crystal Factory & Visitor Centre is a must. While there you can take a tour of their workshop where you will find company founder Sean Daly hard at work. This is a wonderful opportunity to observe a master craftsman and see how Dingle Crystal’s incredible designs are created. There aren’t many craftsmen left making pieces the way Sean and his sons do and the tour is fascinating and informative.

From bowls to glasses, candlesticks and vases, Dingle Crystal can create the perfect souvenir or gift that you won’t find anywhere else. They also offer beautiful whiskey glasses that have proved extremely popular all over the world. These glasses are the perfect match for Irish whiskey but make sure you get your order in early - these handmade glasses are in great

demand. It’s not hard to see why as they really are astounding creations that would stand out in anyone’s collection.

Visit their new Factory & Visitor Centre. They cater for groups of all sizes, with personal demonstrations with Master Craftsman Sean Daly and his sons. Please contact Adam on 0669151550 or email adam@dinglecrystal.ie to organise a tour.

Dingle Crystal Unit 4 Ballinaboola Industrial Estate Dingle Co. Kerry 066 9151550 info@dinglecrystal.ie www.dinglecrystal.ie

October 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Explore Munster

The Hunt Museum Loop Head Lighthouse This popular tourist attraction is located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary on the Loop Head Peninsula, which is one of two “Signature Discovery Points” in County Clare along the route of the Wild Atlantic Way. It also is a landmark location on the Loop Head Heritage Trail and is one of 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. The lighthouse is steeped in history and rich in maritime heritage with its origins dating back to the 1670s. The existing tower style lighthouse was constructed in 1854 and was operated and maintained by a keeper who lived within the lighthouse compound. In January 1991, the lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, and today is monitored by the CIL.Open daily (10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.) until 5 November.

Jameson Distillery Midleton

Cliffs of Moher

The Hunt Museum has artefacts from Greece, Rome, Egypt and the Olmec civilisation. There is also an important collection of Irish archaeological material ranging from Neolithic flints, Bronze Age material, and Christian art.

One of the strengths of the collection is the medieval material, which include statues in stone and wood, painted panels, jewellery, enamels, ivories, ceramics, crystal and crucifixes. Plus work from Picasso, Renoir, Roderic O’Conor, Jack B. Yeats, Robert Fagan and Henry Moore.

Tours run all day, last tour 16.30pm. Adult rate is €15.00 and save 10% on adult admission by booking in advance online. bookings@jamesonwhiskey.com

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TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

Bunratty Castle

Tel: 061 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

Titanic Experience Cobh

Join the whiskey Masters for a guided tour through the romantic past of Irish whiskey making. Learn about the Angels Share, Triple Distillation and above all the smooth taste of Jameson Irish Whiskey. The Old Midleton Distillery stands on the banks of the Dungourney river in Midleton. It is a distillery steeped in history and provides both a cultural and educational experience.

The old distillery buildings have been restored to their original splendor, as they looked in 1805 when whiskey was first produced on this site.

Each tour culminates in the Jameson Bar with a complimentary glass of Jameson and a chance to become a “Qualified Irish Whiskey Taster”. Visitors can also enjoy a delicious lunch in the Malt House Restaurant or browse the Distillery shop, where you will find exclusive Jameson gifts.

Stretching for eight kilometres along the coastline and standing at 214 metres at their highest point, the Cliffs of Moher give the visitor a panoramic view out onto the Atlantic Ocean. It is said that on a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and Galway Bay, over the twelve pins and the Blasket Islands off the coast of Kerry.

When there you really should ascend O’Briens Tower which has been used as a viewing point for centuries past.

Bunratty Castle in County Clare is the most complete and authentic medieval fortress in Ireland. Built in 1425 it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendour and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. Browse the castle and marvel at the finest collection of medieval furniture in the country which brings to life a vital part of our Medieval past.

Blarney Castle Titanic Experience Cobh is located in the original White Star Line Ticket Office in the centre of Cobh town (formerly known as Queenstown) the departure point for the final 123 passengers who boarded the Titanic. The visitor experience is presented in two parts. The first is an immersive audio visual tour retracing the steps of the 123 passengers who boarded Titanic from Queenstown on April 11th 1912. The second part of the Titanic Experience examines how it all went wrong. The unbelievable and “almost” impossible sequence of events that occurred to cause Titanic to sink.

Blarney Castle was built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains, Cormac MacCarthy, and has been attracting visitors from all over the world ever since. Over the last few hundred years, millions have flocked to Blarney, making it a world landmark and one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. This is probably because of the famous stone you will see at the top of the tower. People from all over the world have climbed up there to kiss it in the hope of acquiring the gift of the gab.

www.titanicexperiencecobh.ie

Tel: 021 438 5252

Recommended Bars in Munster O’Neill’s Bar

O’Neill’s Bar/Mol’s Restaurant is located at the top of the town of Tramore. It’s one of the original family owned and run, bar & restaurants in Tramore. With its long standing tradition in sport it’s no wonder this bar is the main sports bar in the town. Since its renovation in 2015 the bar has gone from strength to strength with now one of the most comfortable and accommodating smoking rooms in the country.

Live music every Thursday to Sunday ensures that your visit will be one you won’t forget. They also have a top class restaurant adjacent to the bar which serves excellent cuisine hosting a range of dishes sourced locally with the best Waterford has to offer

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder, Irish Whiskey Experience

Developed by whiskey lovers as a first class destination for whiskey enthusiasts and novices alike. Guests will be amazed by shelf upon shelf of Irish, Scottish & international whiskies and a wide variety of Irish craft gin & vodka, craft beer and cider, eclectic wine list, and creative cocktail menu. Fresh, locally sourced food served daily. Irish Whiskey Experience offers the chance to discover more about the history, production & renaissance of Irish whiskey, with 10 masterclasses to choose from, running every day.

93 New Street Killarney, Co. Kerry Tel: +353646635700 www.celticwhiskeybar.com www.irishwhiskeyexperience.net

Buckley’s Bar

The oak panelled walls and turf fire are the perfect accompaniment to the many musicians who drop in here for the impromptu sessions that seem to be forever going on here. Both bar and hotel have been welcoming visitors since it opened in 1926. And many people either begin their trip around the kingdom there, or base themselves there for its duration.

The Arbutus Hotel, College St, Killarney, Co Kerry.

Tel: 064 663 1037

Dick Mack’s

O’Neills Bar, Summerhill, Tramore, Co.Waterford

Jack Meades (under the bridge)

Set on 5 acres of impeccably kept lawns, this sprawling complex boasts a number of bars. The old world bar it has dates back to 1705, whilst its lime kiln and ice house were built around 1860.

But there is also a modern bar, and an extensive beer garden looking down over the gardens and streams. And good quality food is served here throughout the day.

Named after the leather craftsman, this small and gloriously “busy” pub still sells hand made leather ware inside at the shop to one side. Its walls are drowned in archaic photographs, and outside there’s a star studded pavement where the likes of Robert Mitchum, Sean Connery and Julia Roberts have left their mark. For many, many people, this is what they imagine when they conjure up the image of an Irish pub.

Greene St, Dingle, Co Kerry Tel: 066 915 1960

Dunmore Rd, Waterford Tel: 051 850 950

The Bierhaus

There are over 220 different beers to choose from here, including 6 rotating guest draught taps and a cask. So whether you are looking for a bottle or draught, an international or an Irish beer, there’s a reasonably good chance you’ll find it here. And they spend as much time on getting the atmosphere right as they do on choosing their beers.

Pope’s Quay, Cork Tel: 021 455 1648

Dolan’s Pub and Restaurant

Dolan’s is made up of three venues, two outdoor areas, a traditional Irish pub and a restaurant.

So there’s music here every day of the week, and they’ll serve you your breakfast, lunch and dinner as you require. Some of the many guests who’ve enjoyed their hospitality include Kasabian, Franz Ferdinand, Sharon Shannon and Imelda May. 3-4 Dock Rd, Limerick Tel: 061 314 483 (ext 1) OCTOBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Munster The Munster Room Restaurant

The Munster Room Restaurant at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort provides an opportunity to taste the best of traditional and contemporary Irish cuisine. The awardwinning restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide and holder of two AA Rosette accredited. The Resort’s Head Chef Michael Thomas was awarded “Best Chef of Ireland 2017” by Yes Chef Ireland. Under his direction the award-winning culinary team uses only the finest local produce and creates a truly memorable fine dining experience. All this set aside the Munster Rooms warm ambience, wonderful oak paneled walls and ornate ceiling it’s easy to see why it’s such a winning choice.

Waterford Castle offers an extensive wine cellar and cocktail hour in The Fitzgerald Bar with the winning mixologist Ilario is not to be missed. Start your magical evening with a short crossing over the King’s Channel by the Island Resort’s private car ferry, to the enchanted 310 acre Island Resort.

Waterford Castle leave your worries at the shore…

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort |The Island |Waterford | Ireland Castle Tel: +353 (0)51 878 203 http://www.waterfordcastleresort.com/ munster-room-restaurant

The Copper Hen

The Copper Hen Restaurant is situated above Mother McHugh’s Pub on the Copper Coast between Tramore and Dungarvan in County Waterford. The restaurant was opened in November 2010 by award-winning chef Eugene Long and his wife Sinead Frisby. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming and the food is reasonably priced.

Diners can choose from a range of locally sourced food, such as Kilmore crab claws, sautéed Tiger Prawns or Portobello mushroom bruschetta to start and Irish Hereford sirloin steak, grilled fillet of salmon or pan-roasted Dunmore Cod as main courses. The Copper Hen offers an unforgettable casual dining experience that visitors to Waterford can’t miss out on.

Open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch.

Tel: 051 330 300 www.thecopperhen.ie

La Boheme

Dingle Harbour. Tel: 066 915 0811 32

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This ocean front family run (2nd generation) establishment opened in 1980. The restaurant has been praised by gastronomic writers worldwide. It’s not hard to see why as the Chef/Proprietor, Henry Hunt, takes pride in serving fresh local produce. Panoramic views from the dining room, and friendly service, will give you the perfect dining experience.

For total relaxation why not have an overnight stay in one of the comfortable guest rooms.

Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry Tel: 066 9474330, www.thesmugglersinn.ie

The Lobster

Whether you’re looking for lunch, a casual dinner or just a quiet pint, the friendly staff at The Lobster are sure to look after your every need. Situated in the seaside town of Waterville, it’s no surprise that The Lobster serve some of the best seafood in Kerry and their beef and Guinness stew is also spoken of very highly by all who have sampled it.

Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 9474629

L’Atitude 51

Out of the Blue

They serve only the freshest, most succulent fish and shellfish here, which they have delivered every day, literally, from the sea outside their front door. And if there’s no fish on a particular day, then they won’t open the restaurant. A certain Mr. Paul Hewson, aka Bono is a fan. So book early to avoid disappointment.

The Smuggler’s Inn

La Boheme offers a unique experience for lovers of fine dining, with its location in the basement of one of Waterford’s foremost prestigious buildings. Head Chef Eric Theze uses fresh locally sourced produce, providing guests with exquisitely presented delectable dishes. Christine ensures that all are greeted with a warm welcome, with the belief in treating each guest as if they are being welcomed into their own home. A blend of fine dining and wine bar with bistro menu options, qualifies La Boheme as a hidden gem in the heart of Waterford City.

Open Monday - Saturday 5.30pm until late (Open Bank Holiday Sundays) 2 George’s St., Waterford. Tel: 051 875645 www.labohemerestaurant.ie

This Wine Workshop and live music venue is open six days a week for morning coffee, lunch and light evening meals. They offer and impressive variety of wines and craft beers and were winners of the prestigious Georgina Campbell Wine Award of the Year in 2015.

Their menu offers simple, seasonal food with a distinct French, Italian and Irish influence.

1 Union Quay, Cork Ph: 021 2390219 www.latitude51.ie

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort, Ireland’s only Island Castle is set on an enchanted 310-acre private island. One of Ireland’s most acclaimed hotels, located on the River Suir, is accessed by private car ferry over the King’s Channel. The centuries-old site sits just downstream from its namesake city, the oldest City on the Emerald Isle.

W

aterford Castle offers the very best of Irish hospitality, surrounded by the gracious living of an elegant past with every modern comfort, service and convenience. The Castle’s 500-year-old history provides a stunning venue in the most beautiful surroundings imaginable. Recognized as the 7th of The 50 Best Hotels in The World & 3rd of the Top Ten Hotels of Europe by Condé Nast Traveler 2016 Readers’ Choice Awards.

Past and present come together at Waterford Castle, where a rich and robust history blends seamlessly with contemporary comfort and luxury to make it a key component of Ireland’s Ancient East. Originally erected as a single stone tower during medieval times, Waterford Castle has evolved into an extraordinary internationally renowned destination, with magnificent halls and rooms, each ordained with fine art, period furniture and fixtures. Unique details can be found at every angle on the Castle structure from ornate original plaster ceilings to Elizabethan stone fireplaces.

Settled by monks from the sixth to the eighth century, the island was taken and guarded by Danes during the Viking era. A long line of Anglo-Norman’s The Fitzgeralds owned and occupied the Castle as their home for eight centuries. Mary Fitzgerald a distinguished socialite who dominated the social world in the late 1700s to the early 1800s, was renowned for her amazing parties and spectacular events at the Castle. It is said that on her return to the family seat of the Waterford

Castle she would be rowed in state across the river with 24 musicians on her elegant barge. The love of celebrations continues today on the enchanted 310-acre private island, truly a dream destination.

Dining at Waterford Castle provides an opportunity to taste the best of traditional and contemporary Irish cuisine. The award-winning Munster Room Restaurant is critically acclaimed in the Michelin Guide and holder of two AA accredited Rosettes. The Resort’s Head Chef was awarded “Best Chef of Ireland 2017” by YesChef Ireland. Under his direction the award-winning culinary team uses only the finest local produce and creates a truly memorable fine dining experience.

The Island Resort’s 16th Century

Castle offers luxury, security and privacy like few other destinations. Visit Ireland’s only Island Castle Resort, choose from the Castle's 19 bedrooms or the 45 Family Friendly self catering Island Lodges (sleeps six). Play on the 18 hole championship golf course or choose form the many other Island activities, tennis, falconry, clay pigeon shooting and let your adventures begin.

Waterford Castle leave your worries at the shore…

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort, The Island, Waterford, Ireland T. +353 (0)51 878 203 E. info@waterfordcastleresort.com W. www.waterfordcastleresort.com

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Waterford Crystal Since the reopening of Waterford Crystal in 2009 and the subsequent purchase by Fiskars, Waterford Crystal has re-established near its roots, on The Mall in Waterford City.

Waterford Crystal is now thriving again and it’s a good news story for Ireland and, indeed, for the sporting world in general, given its connection with so many iconic tournaments. “A company that’s been around since 1783 is going to have difficult times and when we reorganised after 2009 and set up in the city, it was a proud day for all connected with Waterford Crystal. Those involved are so proud of the brand which is a product of the work of so many generations of local people over so many years.

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We have a manufacturing plant and brand experience in Waterford, where we produce a lot of crystal and give visitors an opportunity to visit the factory and see how we make our beautiful products,” explains David McCoy, Sales & Marketing Director of House of Waterford Crystal. “A lot of work goes into producing a one-off piece including the design and manufacturing. This is something that we have expertise in and it’s the reason why people come to us to design and produce their trophies, unique pieces and awards.

We have a 12,000 sq. ft. show-room which represents everything we make in crystal, including a whole section on golf and sport, which is a major part of our business.

The list of famous trophies produced by Waterford Crystal for the sports industry alone is simply staggering. Waterford Crystal also designs the pieces for the prestigious Peoples’ Choice Awards as well as the spectacular Times Square Ball – a crystal ball which forms a prominent part of a New Year’s Eve celebration in Times Square in New York, colloquially known as the ball drop.

There is huge pride in Waterford Crystal throughout Ireland and it is little wonder that it is one of the most popular items used to mark special occasions. Even though our audience is beyond Ireland, namely in the US, Australia and the UK, everyone at home wants to be part of something

that is part of the fabric of Ireland and our heritage. A lot of thought goes into our products, which are inspired by Irish heritage, by our landscape, our music and the arts. It is not just about the amazing shapes or the designs of the products but the stories behind those designs.

“In many cases these designs reflect Irish culture in terms of castles, music and art. If you wish to recognise a special achievement or give a special gift for a celebration, Waterford Crystal is one of the first places people look. In the same way, Waterford Crystal is present in so many homes around the world – some very famous homes – it could be a fine wine glass, tumbler, a giftware piece or a chandelier.”

The factory in Waterford City is home to a brand new continuous melt tank furnace that has been tailor-made for Waterford Crystal’s specifications and melts two tonnes of molten crystal every day. It uses leading edge technology to deliver molten crystal of the highest quality for their skilled master blowers to hand-shape and mouthblow Waterford Crystal’s range of premium products.

Thousands of visitors travel from around the world, to see the famous Crystal being manufactured at the factory in Waterford.

Waterford Crystal tours are available all year round - waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars. com Tel: + 353 (0)51 317000

Welcome to Connaught

Macnas Festival Parade This Fierce Beauty

The province of Connaught lies in the West of Ireland with its coastline on the Atlantic Ocean. The counties of Mayo, Sligo, Leitrim, Galway and Roscommon make up this geographically diverse region with the Atlantic Ocean to its westerly boundary, and the midlands of Roscommon to the East. It is the least populated with a population of just over 400,000.

Historically, Connaught has retained its rich Gaelic heritage and today still has communities where the Irish language only is spoken amongst them. But English is the primary second language. These regions are collectively called the Gaeltacht. The remote and beautiful Aran Islands off the mainland of County Galway are also part of the Gaeltacht.

The primary business centre of Connaught, and the most densely populated area is the thriving city of Galway to the south of the province. Although Sligo City, Carrick on Shannon, and Boyle are all fine business and shopping centres in their own right.

Galway city

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Connaught has some Carrick on Shannon of the most scenic and unspoilt countryside to be found in Ireland, including the spectacular mountainous landscape of Connemara, the lock gates and river banks of the Shannon Waterway, the famed Galway Bay and the historic glens of County Leitrim.

Couple these with the beautiful Ashford the holiest mountain in Ireland. The tradition Castle in Mayo near to Cong where the of pilgrimage to this holy mountain stretches film The Quiet Man was filmed, and the back over 5,000 years from the Stone Age to natural serenity of Lough Key Forest Park the present day without interruption. Croagh in Roscommon, and a tour of this region is a Patrick is renowned today for its Patrician must for all.

Pilgrimage in honour of Saint Patrick, For those interested in a religious experience Ireland’s patron saint. It was on the summit Mayo is famed for Knock Shrine where on of the mountain that Saint Patrick is said to the 21st August, 1879, at about 8 o’clock, Our have fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the Lady, St. Joseph, and St. John the Evangelist custom of trekking up the mountain has been are reputed to have appeared. The apparition faithfully handed down from generation to was seen by fifteen people whose ages ranged generation. Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the from six years to seventy-five and included picturesque town of Westport, and its conical men, women and children. The shrine has shape soars majestically above the surrounding become so popular in modern times that the countryside with magnificent views of Clew Ireland West International Airport was built Bay beneath. especially in 1985 to cater for the hundreds So, whether it’s water activities on the Atlantic of thousands of pilgrims and visitors to coastline, cruising on the Shannon Waterway, Connaught. religious pilgrimages, chilling out amongst The county also features the pilgrimage site an unspoilt landscape or driving along roads known as Croagh Patrick, which overlooks where motoring is still a pleasure, Connaught Clew Bay in County Mayo. This is considered has it all.

Recommended Bars in Connaught Tigh Neachtain (Naughtons)

Just across the road from Galway’s justly celebrated Druid Theatre, the Neachtain family have been running this pub here since 1894. And the artsy crowd that congregate here are as likely to be treated to a live jazz trio as they are to the best in Irish trad.

Monroe's

17 Cross st, Galway Tel: 091 568 820

The Quays

This famous venue in the heart of Galway city is renowned as one of the best live music venues in the city. Across two stages, they host regular National & International acts. The friendly staff will assure you of a warm welcome and they serve great food in the Tavern along with free live music seven days a week.

Dominick Street, Galway 091 583397 www.monroes.ie Don’t be put off by the reams of tourists that flock here all year round, there’s a reason that this pub enjoys such a lofty reputation. It looks and feels exactly like an Irish pub should. And be sure to check out the back of the pub which has been decked out with stained glass and wooden pews borrowed from a Medieval French church!

11 Quay St, Galway Tel: 091 568 347

Roísín Dubh

It might have changed hands a few years ago, but the Roísín Dubh is still the premier music venue in the West. In the past they played host to Ray Davies, The New York Dolls and Townes Van Zandt and, more recently the XX, DJ Shadow and Dinosaur Jr. The only difference is, they’ve got a beer garden on the roof now!

Lower Dominick St., Galway Tel: 091 586 540 38

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Bosh Bar and Restaurant Whether you are looking for a bit of good quality food, hoping to catch some live music, or just want to watch the match, this is the place you’re looking for when you find yourself in Castlebar.

Linenhall St., Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel: 094 925 0534

Matt Malloy’s This is exactly the kind of pub you’d expect the flute player with the Chieftains to have opened. And when he’s not on tour with them, you can expect to see Matt Malloy here in person, joining in on the sessions that take place within.

Bridge St., Westport Tel: 098 26655

Recommended Restaurants in Connaught Kai Café

An Port Mór Restaurant

Roasted pig cheeks with black pudding, and apple and vanilla sauce is just one of this award winning restaurant’s specialities. One of the finest restaurants in the West.

1 Brewery Place, Bridge St, Westport, Co. Mayo Tel: 098 26730

The Cottage Restaurant

Head chef Sham Hanifa’s sauces are so well regarded, you can buy jars of them to take away with you after your meal. Originally from Malaysia, he’s been here in Leitrim for over 14 years and applies his culinary skills to the local Irish produce that are native to the West.

Jamestown, Co. Leitrim Tel: 071 962 5933

Ashford Castle

Dating all the way back to 1228, this is one of the most imposing castles on the island. And where better to dine than in the George V dining room, built specially by the Guinness family when they hosted the Prince of Wales in 1906.

Cong, Co. Mayo Tel: 094 954 6003 David and Jessica Murphy’s restaurant in the heart of Galway has justly won a mountain of awards over the last couple of years, including Restaurant of the Year in 2012. Of the many, many who sing its praises, John McKenna wrote, “It’s vital food, packed with good energy, and it lifts you up to eat it because it’s so simple and elemental.”

Sea Road, Galway City.

Tel: 091 526 003

Eala Bhán

Upstairs @ West Restaurant

Situated in the luxury 4 star hotel The Twelve in Barna, minutes away from the city centre, this is one of Galway’s best kept secrets and is well worth a visit.

The Twelve, Barna, Galway City Tel: 091 597 000

Waterfront House Restaurant

If it’s fresh seafood or a prime steak you’re looking for, this is the place for you. Situated in the heart of Sligo this restaurant is warmly recommended by one and all, including Lucinda O’Sullivan and Georgina Campbell.

Rockwood Parade, Sligo Town Tel: 071 914 5823

Half way between Athlone and Roscommon, and a quarter of an hour’s drive from either, Aidan Murray has been head chef here for over 20 years. Superior bistro food.

The Waterfront House Restaurant boasts one of the most outstanding sea views in Ireland. You can wine, dine and relax as you peer out over the 5km beach overlooking Killala Bay. Since it opened in 2011 the Seaview Restaurant and Wine Bar have become popular with locals and visitors alike. Fresh Seafood is a speciality.

Lecarrow, Co. Roscommon Tel: 090 666 1255

Enniscrone, County Sligo Tel: 096 37120

The Yew Tree Restaurant

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The Irish

Manuscripts Commission

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The Irish Manuscripts Commission (IMC) is approaching its 89th birthday. Founded as a public body in October 1928, IMC has sought to overcome the massive loss to the study of Ireland’s documentary record caused by the destruction of the Public Record Office of Ireland in the Four Courts in Dublin in 1922 by preserving in print, and latterly online, manuscript sources for Irish history and culture.

IMC’s remit is based on the principles of dissemination, preservation and promotion of original source materials, in public and private ownership.

Since 1930 the Commission has established a proud record of publication and it is recognised nationally and internationally as a publisher of primary sources prepared to the highest standard.

To date IMC has published over 200 volumes, mainly editions of original manuscripts, but including calendars and also facsimiles of early Irish codices. Its serial publication, Analecta Hibernica, is devoted to the publication of shorter manuscript sources and the 48th issue is about to go to press. Recent IMC publications include an edition of a previously unpublished manuscript of late eighteenth-century poetry by a rural Ulster female poet and a calendar of the state papers relating to Ireland from the reign of Henry VIII. As part of the decade of centenaries, in 2016 IMC published the memoir of Eoin MacNeill, founder of the Irish Volunteers in 1913, sometime politician and academic, and the first Chairman of the Irish Manuscripts Commission. Analecta Hibernica No. 47 (also published in 2016) was a thematic issue containing shorter never-before published primary documents relating to 1916 and its aftermath.

All out of print IMC publications are made available through the Digital Editions section of the IMC website (www.irishmanuscripts.ie). These are available for free to search online from anywhere in the world.

IMC continues to promote awareness of primary sources for history among the general public through events such as Culture Night and its biennial Eoin MacNeill Lecture, but also through its website and print advertising as well as social media.

The contact details for the Irish Manuscript Commission are available online at www.irishmanuscripts.ie.

Explore Connaught

Westport House

Kylemore Abbey Few places on earth have the tranquillity and beauty of Kylemore Abbey and its majestic Victorian walled garden, which won the prestigious Europa Nostra Award in 2002.The garden comprises of roughly 6 acres and is divided in two by a natural mountain stream. The eastern half comprises of the flower or pleasure garden, glass houses and gardeners’ houses. While the kitchen garden makes up the other half of the garden and is predominantly given over to the growing of food.

Glencar Waterfall Glencar Waterfall is situated near Glencar Lake, 11 kilometres west of Manorhamilton, County Leitrim. It is particularly impressive after rain and can be viewed from a lovely wooded walk. The most dramatic waterfall descends from a 50ft rocky headland into a deep pool below in a haze of white spray. A paved path to the viewing area provides a wonderful vantage point from which to view the waterfall which is particularly spectacular during wet conditions.

Arigna Mining Experience Discover what coal mining life was like for coal miners in the Arigna Valley in Roscommon from the 1700’s until its closure in 1990. Visit the exhibition area to discover the history of the mine and then take an underground tour of the mine, where the methods used to extract coal are demonstrated, with lighting and sound effects added for authenticity.

Mullaghmore

www.WestportHouse.ie

Dún Aonghasa National Museum of Ireland - Country Life The National Museum of Ireland - Country Life in Turlough Park, Castlebar houses exhibits showing how rural people in Ireland lived from the time of the Great Famine right up until the 1950s. The museum features four levels of interactive displays and exhibitions that offer a fascinating insight into the lives of the rural Irish people in years gone by.

Connemara Mullaghmore is one of the surfing capitals of the Irish Atlantic coastline, and is recognised as one of the top surfing destinations in the world. Surfers and windsurfers from all over the world have ridden waves up to 15 metres (49 ft) high off Mullaghmore Head. The area is also safe for bathing, and has all the modern facilities that you could wish for to make your stay enjoyable.

Westport House is one of the finest country houses in Ireland and since it opened to the public in the 1960s, over four million visitors have passed through its doors.

There are over 30 rooms on show, where visitors can immerse themselves in over 500 years of history, going back to the time when the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley ruled the estate. There is loads for the whole family to enjoy on the estate, including the Pirate Adventure Park, the Birds of Prey Centre and the Westport Train Tour.

Connemara is a world of unspoilt natural beauty, rolling hills, leafy glens and crystal clear mountain streams all overlooked by towering majestic mountains. Travel from the rugged Twelve Bens mountain range in the north through lake-rich Roundstone Bog, to the golden beaches reaching out into the Atlantic Ocean. This wondrous landscape is bounded on the West, South and North by the Atlantic Ocean.

Located on Inismór in the Aran Islands, Dún Aonghasa is one of the best examples of a semi-circular stone fort in Europe.

Located on the 300ft cliffside on the south of the island, it is one of Ireland’s most visited attractions and offers stunning views that stretch the length of the island.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is 5 miles from the picturesque town of Westport, and its conical shape soars majestically above the surrounding countryside, offering spectacular views of Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was on the summit of this mountain that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days in 441 AD, and the custom has been faithfully handed down from generation to generation. On the last day in July 25,000 pilgrims climb it, and over a million people visit Croagh Patrick every year.

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Welcome to Ulster

The Giants Causway Photo: @storytravelers The Ancient Irish province of Ulster, made up of 9 counties, was partitioned in 1921 and six of the counties in it now make up Northern Ireland. These are Fermanagh, Antrim, Down, Derry/Londonderry, Armagh, and Tyrone.

The other three counties are Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan in the Republic of Ireland.

County Fermanagh has over 300 square miles of water, 365 islands, breathtaking scenery, the mystical Marble Arch Caves Geo Park, world class fishing and more historic monuments than you could shake a stick at. In short, Fermanagh is a Lakeland Paradise.

County Donegal is in the northwest of the

‘Hills of Donegal’ consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 751 metres the highest peak.

The Slieve League cliffs are the second highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal’s Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

new Titanic Quarter and the Odyssey Arena to name but a few. This vibrant city has a culture all of its own and its restaurants, theatres and nightlife are amazingly good value.

Mount Errigal

Belfast Republic of Ireland. The name “Donegal” comes from the Irish, meaning “the fort of the foreigners”. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which Lough Swilly is the most notable. The famous mountains or 42

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County Antrim with its beautiful coast road and famous glens is the most north easterly county on the island. On a worldwide scale Antrim’s most famous attraction is the Giants Causeway. However the renowned ‘Glens of Antrim’, the Bushmills Distillery and Carrickfergus Castle are well worth visiting as well.

Belfast City too has many things to see including the grandeur of the City Hall, the

Linsfort Church, Co. Donegal

Recommended Bars in Ulster The Crown Liquor Saloon

Located in Belfast’s Cathedral district, very unusually this pub is owned by the Belfast Unemployment Resource Centre, which was opened by local poet, socialist and Freeman of the City, John Hewitt. Hence the name. They’ve an extensive range of craft beers, both on tap and in bottles. And if that’s not enough, they even have a genuine gin palace!

Which includes locally made Shortcross Gin. 51 Donegall St., Belfast Tel: 028 9023 3768

White’s Tavern

Dating all the way back to 1630, this is the oldest tavern in Belfast, and one of the oldest anywhere on these islands. You can warm yourself by the fire downstairs where you’ll find the original pub, whilst upstairs they’ve opened a second bar where more livelier fare goes down.

2-4 Winecellar Entry, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3080

Kelly’s Cellars Now owned by the National trust, this is one of the most justly famous pubs to be found anywhere in Britain or Ireland, with its mixture of oak panelling, leather chairs and its exquisite, ornate Victorian tiling. And, just as you’d expect, they’ve a wonderful selection of real ales and home made food.

46 Great Victoria St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 3187

This is the oldest pub proper in Belfast, dating back to 1720. Stone floors, white washed walls, and traditional Irish music rings through its low ceilinged rooms. It’s like finding a country pub in the middle of the city.

30-32 Bank St, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 6058

The Duke Of York

The John Hewitt

One of the liveliest pubs in town, its walls are busy with paraphernalia and whatnots, and the place is hopping with (mostly) young people who fill the place up all weekend and most of the week. And if you are looking to treat yourself to a sneaky, antique whiskey, look no further.

7-11 Commercial Ct, Belfast Tel: 028 9024 1062

Peadar O’Donnell’s

There are three bars to choose from here at this famous Derry pub, and music to suit any and all tastes. You can move from an impromptu session that might have materialised magically in the corner of the traditional bar downstairs, to a gig proper upstairs in the Gweedore.

Before coming back downstairs to what they swear is the best pint in Derry.

59-63 Waterloo St., Derry Tel: 028 7126 7295 OCTOBER 2017 - TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE

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Recommended Restaurants in Ulster Ox

Having won the Best Newcomer Award in 2013, Ox took Best Restaurant, Best Chef and Best Wine Experience in Antrim for 2014.

Chic, smart and very good.

The Ginger Bistro

Coco

1 Oxford St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 4121

55 Degrees North Located in Belfast’s historic Linenhall Street just behind City Hall, this is one of the best dining experiences you will find here in the city centre in Belfast. Its chic boutique surroundings make it very much the place to see and be seen.

This family run business has been open since 2005. And this stylish restaurant has been receiving plaudits ever since, both for the quality of its food, and the spectacular views of the Atlantic that it offers.

1 Causeway St, Portrush, Co Antrim Tel: 0044 28 7082 2811

The ginger in question is owner chef Simon McCance, and since relocating here closer to the centre his reputation for producing quality food at surprisingly reasonable prices has got even stronger.

7-8 Hope St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9024 4421

Deane’s Restaurant

7-11 Linenhall St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 1150

Shu

They serve deliberately simple, Frenchinfluenced food here using only the best seasonal ingredients, and all served at a reasonable price in an elegant location. And you can have a drink in the cocktail bar in the basement while you are waiting for your table.

253 Lisburn Rd, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9038 1655

Vanilla Restaurant

Local man Darren Ireland opened this smart new establishment here in 2009, and it’s one of the best quality bistros on the East coast.

Telfords Restaurant

Overlooking the river Lagan and situated in a maritime building that dates back to 1843, Telfords operates on three levels and is in walking distance from the Waterfront Hall, the Odyssey complex and the Ulster Hall.

67 Main St, Newcastle Tel: 0044 28 4372 2268

Lough Erne Resort

5 Donegall Quay, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 4000

Sun Kee Restaurant

One of the best Chinese restaurants in Belfast, the Lo family have been producing impressively adventurous and authentic Chinese cuisine here for years.

42-7 Donegall Pass, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9031 2016 Michael Deane trained at London’s prestigious Claridges and since returning to Belfast he has opened up a number of top quality restaurants across the city. And losing the Michelin star he had in 2011 has he says liberated him, allowing him to concentrate on the food without having to worry about critics.

36-40 Howard St, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9033 1134

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Sakura

In the city’s busy Botanic Avenue, this is one of the city’s few authentic sushi bars, but they also serve a variety of fusion dishes if sushi is not your thing. A superior Japanese restaurant.

82 Botanic Av, Belfast Tel: 0044 28 9043 9590

Speranza Restaurant

This 5 star hotel just outside the town of Enniskillen is quite simply one of the most spectacularly situated hotel resorts you will find anywhere in Europe.

Lusty Beg

This island spa is set on 75 acres in the heart of the lakes of Fermanagh, and where better to unwind than in its award winning restaurant.

Hand made oven baked pizzas are one of the specialities here, but there is a wide choice of all types of Italian food on offer here in one of Belfast’s finest Italian restaurants.

Belleek Rd, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6632 3230

Boa Island, Kesh, Co Fermanagh Tel: 0044 28 6863 3300

16-9 Shaftesbury Av, Belfast Tel: 044 28 9023 0213

TRAVEL IRELAND MAGAZINE - October 2017

2017 Autumn Winter Programme at

Westport House Fresh from a very successful Summer season, Westport House are delighted to announce that a varied programme of events and activities coming up this Autumn/Winter. There is something for everyone to enjoy at Westport House as we move into this beautiful and more peaceful season.

Fossett’s Circus, 27th September to 1st October

Long-time friends of Westport House, the Fossett’s family, will return to Westport with another all-new show for 2017 featuring magical aerial manoeuvers, skilled knife throwing and motorcycle on a high-wire.

Always thrilling, don’t miss out.

Award-winning Halloween Fest, 28th October to November 5th Winner of Best Halloween Event at Primary Times, some ghoulishly good fun over this October mid-term break. The Pirate Adventure Park will be open all mid-term break long as will the “haunted” historic house. From the 28th to the 31st October, there will be free workshops and activities in your ticket such as Spooky Spoons, Jack-O-Lantern Carving, Face-painting and Storytelling with the White Witch. Don’t miss out on the newly spooked dungeons!

Magical Christmas Experience, 25th November to 23rd December Visitors get to enjoy Westport House in a whole new way as all of the rooms are

used to celebrate Winter Wonderland at Christmas. Once you park, the train will pick you up and bring you to beautiful Westport House. New this year, there will be more intimate group sizes visiting Santa as part of your guided experience at Winter Wonderland, each child will get their own miniature Christmas tree to plant (as Santa’s gift) and they are planning a very exciting Christmas Eve Live Show with Santa Claus (that you can watch online in the comfort of your own home). There will also be a new “Live Crib” so the kiddies will get to meet some animals too. The Elves will welcome you all back but with a new sparkle in the experience and Mrs Claus has a magical new story about “Stumpa” that will inspire the kids. Everyone will still get to take home their own home-made Yuletide Log and avail of the professional photo.

Westport House Open Daily

Westport House remains open daily through to the start of November from 10am to 4pm and weekends thereafter.

With the Autumn leaves turning, this season is a particularly beautiful one to visit. Enjoy over 30 rooms open to the public and 6 exhibitions.

Groups Always Welcome at Westport House

You are always welcome to bring a group and take your pick of the following activities. n B ook an Afternoon Tea in the stunning house (a great lunch alternative) n E njoy a fascinating Guided Tour of the House with one of the passionate, fun and knowledgeable guides n Take the Westport Train Tour on a sight-seeing, all-weather tour of the town n Try an exhilarating Private Hawk Walk with a master falconer n C hallenge yourself to zipwires and archery with Killary Adventure

Sensory Santa at Westport House, 1st December

On December 1st, the lights and music are toned down to welcome families with children with autism to see Santa one on one.

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Savour Kilkenny

O

Over 30,000 visitors are expected for this year’s Savour Kilkenny – Festival of Food 2017. The number of exhibitors has grown sixfold since the festival began in 2006. From just 15 stallholders there are now over 100, making Savour Kilkenny one of Ireland’s largest and most popular food festival’s.

Savour Kilkenny - which runs from 27 to 30 October - will host a festival of firsts this year with new events, new venues across the county, new

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producers and some of Ireland’s bestknown personalities making their cookery demonstration debuts in Kilkenny.

Festivities will be held by Kilkenny Castle and throughout the city, with the finale in Thomastown for the first time. With over 100 events, mostly free, and 100 stallholders Savour Kilkenny 2017 features a packed programme for all ages.

This year adds a second chef demo stage on the city’s Parade. Chefs making their festival debut include MasterChef Winner and Olympic sprinter, David Gillick; actor and Celebrity MasterChef finalist, Simon Delaney; food and travel blogging duo, The Gastro Gays and Oliver Dunne of Bon Appétit, Ireland’s youngest chef to receive a Michelin star.

The festival also welcomes national treasure and Chairperson of the National Ploughing Association, Anna May McHugh, demonstrating delicious favourites and talking about her incredible life experiences with TV Chef, Edward Hayden. Festival favourites Neven

Maguire, Rory O’ Connell, The Happy Pear, River Cottage’s Steven Lamb and Stuart O’ Keeffe are back by popular demand.

Darina Allen will also feature this year taking part in a new addition to the programme – ‘Fats: Facts & Fictions’ at Highbank Orchards and Distillery. This evening promises a lively discussion on the role of fats in our diet featuring Ben Colchester who makes Ireland and the UK’s only organic rape seed oil and Karen Cryan, Ireland’s first and only olive oil sommelier.

Kilkenny’s new Medieval Mile Museum presents A Medieval Food and Craft Village giving a ‘step-back in time’ glimpse into medieval food and craft making. Festival visitors can also enjoy a Gunpowder Gin Mixology Class at The Wine Centre, a Mushroom Hunt at Castlecomer Discovery Park, AgriAware’s Mobile Farm, food meets science with ‘Foodoppi’ Molecular Gastronomy Demonstration for children, an action packed programme for children and

families, and lot’s more.

Another exciting addition is a brand new Savour Kilkenny Taster Trail. Presented

by Pallas Foods, visitors can taste their way across the city while Taste Kilkenny Food Producers Association will launch its first ‘Hero Buyer Award’ to honour buyers’ commitment to buying local. Renowned food writer, John McKenna will interview some of the ‘fishwives’ who contributed recipes to Mag Kirwan’s award-winning ‘Fishwives’ recipe book. This exciting event will be held in Harper’s Restaurant with a cookery demonstration by acclaimed Japanese Chef Takashi Miyazaki.

The largest Craft Brewers and Distillers Pavilion yet is set to be one of the most popular attractions with DJ beats and an array of craft beers, ciders and spirits from across Ireland, including Kilkenny’s Highbank Orchard Gin, a Wine Makers Tasting Table and local craft brewers O’ Hara’s Brewery, Costello’s and Sullivan’s Brewing Company. Ballykeefe Distillery will also premiere at the festival with master-

distiller, Jamie Baggot, giving an exclusive insight into how he started growing with the humble potato which now makes his ‘Best Gin in the World’ as awarded in San Francisco last year.

The beautiful city of Kilkenny becomes a foodie’s paradise this month, giving visitors the opportunity to truly Savour Kilkenny like never before. www.savourkilkenny.com

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Explore Ulster

Titanic Belfast Since opening in March 2012 Titanic Belfast has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland, with over a million visitors through its doors in its first year. Housed in an iconic, six storey building, it’s located in the heart of Belfast, right next to the site where the famous ship was built, telling the story of the Titanic from its conception in Belfast in the early 1900s, through its construction and launch, to its famous maiden voyage and tragic end.

The Giant’s Causeway The Giant’s Causeway stretches for around five kilometres along the Antrim coast.

Legend has it that it was built by Finn MacCool so that he could get across to Scotland to take on a giant who lived there.

In 1986 the Giant’s Causeway Visitors centre opened, after the World Heritage Conventions added it to its list of sites which are of exceptional interest and universal value.

Dunluce Castle With a rich history, in a stunning, location, Dunluce Castle on the coast of Antrim is just waiting to be explored. Visitor information includes an audio visual tour of the castle, with a ‘treasure hunt’ encouraging younger visitors to explore.

You can also download a Dunluce Castle app for iPhone and Android devices, available free of charge from the App Store and Google Play.

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The Old Bushmills Distillery Bushmills is the only distillery in Ireland to make triple-distilled malt whiskey. This is at the heart of all Bushmills whiskeys, whether Bushmills or Black Bush, and it is this that gives them their unique combination of smoothness and richness.

Today, over 120,00 visitors come to the Old Distillery every year to discover more about how it is all done, and to see for themselves where the magic happens.

Ulster American Folk Park Situated 5 miles outside of Omagh on the road to Strabane, the museum is your chance to mix family fun with a fascinating exploration of our shared histories.

Immerse yourself in the world famous story of Irish emigration at the museum that brings it to life. Follow the emigrant trail as you journey from the thatched cottages of Ulster, on board a full scale emigrant sailing ship leading to the log cabins of the American Frontier.

Down County Museum Situated next to the Down Cathedral, the Down County Museum houses modern galleries telling the stories of the area and fantastic temporary exhibitions. Learn about the museum’s history as a gaol and see the Downpatrick High Cross before relaxing in their new Cathedral View Tea Room.

Belleek Pottery One of Northern Ireland’s oldest and most fascinating attractions. Visitors can take a personally guided tour of the factory and see how the techniques developed by the very first Belleek craftsmen 158 years ago are still followed today. An audio visual presentation informs visitors of the rich history of the pottery from its beginnings right the way through to present day, while the Belleek Museum offers a display of pottery through the ages.

Glenveagh National Park The second largest national park in Ireland, Glenveagh is a remote and beautiful wilderness in the north-west of Donegal.

Full of rugged mountains, pristine lakes and tumbling waterfalls. Visitors can also take a tour of Glenveagh Castle on the banks of Lough Veagh and take a walk through the beautiful walled gardens, which boast a multitude of exotic plant.

Florence Court Florence Court is the former home of the Cole family, Earls of Enniskillen. The three storey Georgian mansion contains fine plasterwork and 18th century Irish furniture and also offers extensive gardens, outdoor trails and a woodland children’s play area. Every aspect of life in this classical Irish House, with its fine interiors and exquisite decoration, is brought to life on guided tours.

Belfast

Hidden Tours

T

ourism is finding its feet well and truly in Belfast over the past two decades. As we approach the 20th anniversary of the Good Friday Peace Agreement, there’s a sea of change and positivity in the historic and unique city of Belfast.

Belfast Hidden Tours is at the front in promoting and showcasing the brilliant history and culture our city has to offer. Our walking tours delve into the hidden history of Belfast and visit interesting artists, historians and trades people that add to the experience.

From the formation of the United Irishmen to the anti-slavery movement there is a lot for the city to be proud of.

No visit to Belfast should miss a trip to one of our lively pubs.

With their live show ‘The Belfast Story’, Belfast Hidden Tours use local Irish dancers, musicians and narrators to tell the story of Belfast through song, poems, dancing and storytelling in some of the city’s favourite pubs.

Belfast Hidden Tours pride themselves in giving a balanced and positive impression of Belfast to their visitors.They are putting together a Peace Walls tour this summer with local photographer Frankie Quinn that will give visitors a great overview of the Peace Walls. www.belfasthiddentours.com

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Great Irish Writers

Brian Friel F

or a small country, Ireland has produced more than its fair share of incredible writers. Sadly, two years ago this month, we lost one of the best playwrights of recent times with the passing of Brian Friel at the age of 86.

Friel will go down as a legend of Irish theatre, with plays such as Philadelphia Here I Come, Dancing At Lughnasa and Translations among his impressive body of work.

Friel was born near Omagh in Co. Tyrone in 1929. At the age of ten his family relocated to Derry, where he attended St Columb’s College. He initially trained to be a priest for two years in St Patrick’s College in Maynooth before qualifying as teacher in St Joseph’s College, Belfast in 1950.

He spent ten years teaching and enjoyed some early writing success, with numerous short stories being published.

This was followed in 1958 by his play A Sort of Freedom being broadcast on BBC Northern Ireland.

In 1960, Friel left his teaching job and became a full time writer, writing short stories for The New Yorker and a regular column in the Irish Press. After a period of studying Irish-born director Tyrone Guthrie in the United States, Friel returned to Ireland and had great success with his 1964 play Philadelphia Here I Come. Telling the story of a young man

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about to emigrate to the United States, the play ran in the Gaiety Theatre in Dublin and made Friel’s name at home and abroad, running almost continuously worldwide ever since.

Friel had married Anne Morrison in 1954 and had five children. In 1966 he and his family moved to Inishowen in Donegal, living first in Muff before settling in Greencastle, where Friel would spend the rest of his life. Many of his plays were set in the fictional town of Ballybeg, a town inspired by small Irish towns such as the ones that he lived in.

Friel continued to produce acclaimed work throughout his life, notably Translations in 1980 and Dancing At Lughnasa in 1990. The latter went on to become a film starring Meryl Streep in 1998. In spite of all of his success, Friel was a quiet and humble man who shunned the media spotlight and was happy for his work to speak for him. He famously didn’t attend the Tony Awards when Dancing At Lughnasa picked up three awards because he didn’t like the attention.

With his passing, Ireland has lost an inspiring literary figure.

However his work will live on and continue to be enjoyed by generations to come. And that’s probably just the way he would like it.